Finally a messy old school wet layup with modern techniques like 3D printing. Great stuff in this one. I'll definately have to try the 3D printing route.
Instead of spending 5k on overrated car parts and spoilers, I think I will invest in this...I already have experience with 3d printers, just needed the carbon fiber bit..thank you
A lot of that $5k comes from having to make the mould. Doing it your self you might save 50-60% of the cost, but it's also a lot more fun and rewarding
Excellent video as always! Bringing 3D printing into this is a game changer, the mould production was always the hurdle for me, can’t wait to try this!
Just wanted to say that this channel has been a fantastic resource for my University's UAV team. We used a similar process to produce our carbon fiber wings. Thank you so much for the great videos and keep up the great work!
Incredible, I recently bought a 3d printer to make simple brackets and interior pieces for my car, but now the possibility of making them fibreglass or even carbon fibre is amazing
I was just on the phone with our machine shop discussing how awesome your channel is for people getting into composites, and how awesome your store is for getting project supplies. Thanks!
Great video! If you print with PLA, you don't have to worry about slip angles or even returns, as the mould can be warmed with a hair dryer and bent away from the part to release. It is a huge benefit.
@@mattmurphy7030 yeah, they cost virtually nothing to print, so for single or low volume, they can be 'disposable'.. it does allow some benefits not possible any other way..
@@veldhuisracing PLA is good because you can melt it away from the part at a fairly low temperature. But if you have a thick layup that will get hot during curing, the mould can distort, so PETG would be better.
3d printing engineer here, just wanted to say that i loved the video! And maybe also to point out that you (hypothetical "you", as a hobbyist, not as a full-blown composites professional) could pay a lot more attention to printing to make the mould almost perfectly smooth. With proper design and a good thick 0.8mm nozzle most of such shapes can be printed in a vase mode, say, at 0.04mm layer height, and then smoothed with a bit of dcm or elbow greace. Or sprayed with some coating to hide layer lines completely. Or dcm-smoothed and then coated. Or acetone-smoothed (if using abs) and then coated. Or... you know, the list of things that can make a perfect mould is kind of infinite
Thanks for the comments and suggestions. In our other 3D printing tutorial we did demonstrate using an epoxy coating and the finishing to a near perfect finish; if you’re making more than one part using the mould then this is worth doing. For a one off, it’s often easier to do the finishing work on the part (because it’s in the positive shape).
Super nice that you did a tutorial on this stuff. I have been experimenting A LOT with 3D printed parts and 3D printed moulds / mould masters up to 1.35m to make CF watersport structures. One thing I found on the way is that PU epoxy primer (sold at HP-text....), is a superb primer to stick something to PETG. You only need like 50gr to coat the surface on a meter long part, but after that you can laminate glass or CF to the 3D printed structure without issues. You can't pull it off anymore. Maybe Easy Composites has a similair product. :) Another thing is printing very low infill single shelled 3D printed PETG moulds, with the infill arranged as long channels (1 infill angle) and filling them up with e.g. epoxy foam.
May i ask if you have experience which coating i can use to pit permanently into the negative mold? I want to get rid of all little imperfections and layer lines but still want to be able to the the molded part out of the mold
This is the perfect type of content. I wouldn't be interested in vacuum sealing for 1 single one-off part usually, but now I see the process and why you'd consider it. So now I would likely actually do the vacuum sealing process. But it's really cool to know this can be done with 3D printed molds and turn out well either way.
Another excellent tutorial with two really small details that I feel are often missed and help to demystify working with resin: cleaning the shears (I assume you just throw the brushes as they're relatively cheap) and showing the drips after it had cured (i.e. not worrying that they're there)
Brushes can sometimes be reused if you clean them in acetone before the resin gels. However it needs to be a good quality brush as some of the cheaper ones, the glue holding the bristles dissolves with acetone so it falls apart.
Hi there. You are my latest UA-cam channel addiction😂 It's awesome your showing how usable and accessible your products are for small to huge projects. Great video as always(so far😉).ThankQ. TkEZ.
Thank you so much for making these videos. i have learned more from watching your videos, then i have watching hundreds of other carbon fiber videos on youtube.
Interesting to see you using the mould straight from the printer. might want to give that a try. I've made a number of 3D printed moulds for wet lay-up of glass and carbon parts and I've always coated the mould surface with a Motip filler-primer layer from a spraycan, then sanded the surface to some 400 grit (tho it is possible to go to 2000 grit and polish the mould) untill the peaks of the printlines were visible and sanded smooth but the valleys were filled. It required much less post processing since the surface was already smooth. This is especially important with carbon fiber as you need to be very cautious of the tiny fibers you're sanding off, tho wetsanding really helps. Also, I've always liked to use 8mm wooden dowels and holes in the moulds to perfectly mate the mould sections for larger moulds that need to be glued together.
Thanks for your feedback and tips, that’s all good to hear and share. We’re generally a bit wary of rattle-can primers because the release off them can be a bit hit-and-miss (generally more miss, the amount of calls for help we get from customers who have used them!) so you might want to experiment with a product like XCR, it’s really an excellent way of coating prints 👍.
This is the first video I have seen on your channel. Your shop looks impeccable. Great content! I guess this will be my next youtube / hobby rabbit hole :D
@@csabalazar8937 and ABS but ABS sucks ;) Prusa did a breakdown on a poor-man's method here ua-cam.com/video/NiG1jDEG0kA/v-deo.html Then again with moulds PVB and IPA might be an easier/safer solution..
@@streaky81 Yeah just go with the PVB. Smooths fine and far better printability. Unless you are super confident in your ABS/ASA printing skills; but typically for a mold you are looking at sizable parts, so you because you got your benchy tuned in doesnt mean you are good.
Seeing the prices of "carbon fiber" parts these days that aren't even real Carbon Fiber makes me wonder how much I could save in making them myself, lol. This is the 3rd video I've watched from this channel and I'm hooked! Those starter sets are quite affordable, so I may dive into one and make something simple to start. If I don't suck at it, who knows where one could go from there.
I've been doing quiet a bit of this lately, almost always vacuum bagging. I've found that with pla and a .4mm nozzle that 3 perimeters (1.2mm wall for cura users) and 15% infill makes a mold that can withstand full vacuum. I've had this luck with both pva and mold release wax for getting parts of of the mold, with wax generally giving an easier release.
Surprised by your result! I would have thought infill density would have had to be much higher, glad you saved me a few passes. I was also curious if the resin curing process, and the heat, would be high enough to deform PLA, so I picked up clear PETG to mold with, and see any voids. But now I can save that and use PLA instead, and save the stringing for another project. Thank you Nate, I'm looking forward to my first layup!
@@GhostRyderFPV Glad to hear its helpful info. I imagine that exotherm could still be an issue for warping the PLA if you pushed it too far but I've had great success with epoxy. I've also found that for one offs it's just as easy to sand the layer lines off the finished part opposed to trying to sand the female mold before laminating. If you're going to pop more then a few out of the mold it's probably worth the time to sand the mold. I haven't pushed any of the molds to failure but i have a few that I've made 4 or 5 parts out of that seem to be in fine shape.
@@natecampbell42 _This advice is free?!_ Seriously, thank you. You've just taken the edge off the anxiety of trying this: Will the molds last, are they strong enough at 15% infill, layer line treatment on the molds. Really, thank you.
i do a lot of hand laid carbon fiber wings for drag cars . we spray clear gel coat first let it tack up 45 min then lay the carbon on the tacky surface the the resin, if we have a small air pocket we use a dremel to open it and put some clear gel coat in it. then we sand with 600/800 wet sand with 1000 the buff and wax. we make a beautiful part
3D Printed moulds are game changer for hobby parts or prototypes. Really need to try that. Although I need more light parts than glossy surface for model airplanes ;) Great Video, thanks!
I always think of all the kids I see complaining about heavy prosthetic legs when custom carbon fibre work like this is pretty cheap and available nowadays.
thanks for creating this tutorial. i havent really thought about using carbon fibre, because i dont have the gear, but this looks like something i could try out in the garage
Thanks Anton, yes, this is very much a process that excludes no one, even if you don’t have the printer you’ll know someone who does and the chances are they’d be happy to run a print for you, many people are just looking for genuine projects to use their printer on.
I've been thinking about this process recently and now youtube presented me with this video. Very nicely explained, professional production quality... Keep it up! Great tutorial!
Hey Paul, I'm so excited for the new video(posted 7 min ago) I'm here to comment before I have a chance to watch it. Always Topp Shelf content!!! Thank you.
Massive thank you to make it so clear to understand and looking so easy of job, so I genuinely like to try make smth myself. Great example of teaching!
I've been looking for a method to increase the accuracy of my layups so that I can build an aircraft as perfectly as possible. Looks like my 3d printer is about to get very busy.
To remove the etchmarks from the printer, place a small cup of Acetone with the parts in a vacuume chamber for a few mins, or even lightly brush them with Acetone then quickly wipe it off! Smooth surfaces everytime.
Just had a look at your starter kits... if you had a sort of 'try it out kit', it might be a nice way to allow a beginner to get a feel of different materials. It would have a mold and enough materials to make the same part in say four different fabrics. Not sure what the mold would be but it would probably be simple and something I can clutter my desk up with, at work. I'd definitely buy that.
Hi Stuart, thank you for your comments. I totally agree that this would be a good idea, it’s something we’ve thought of before. As you say, difficult to know what mould to choose but a relatively generic shape/form (maybe a speed shape) could grace (clutter!) any desk!
What sort of dust extraction/management do you recommend when grinding/Dremmeling the flash off? I heard from some guys that I know who are ex-Lola, (now RB or Mercedes guys), that CF grinding dust is particularly dodgy (inhaling any dust/solvents to some extent obvs) Also just to say....really, and I mean really, good instructional videos, honest and straight to the point. hopefully will bring you a lot of hobbyist business.
You should make a foam core rudder or dagger board for a sailboat. I'm getting everything figured out. I think a 3D printed split mold in two halves but how to get the foam in? Should I use an expanding foam in each mold and then trim it flush. Or finish the board, drill a hole and then pour in the foam? I'd be worried the second method could cause warping of the part. There's also a need of reinforcement in the leading and trailing edge for dings and repairs to be taken into consideration. But my main question is regarding the foam and then best practices for gluing the two parts together. I'm assuming I need an inner lip around the perimeter to bond to?
Often the foam core is CNC or hand shaped to fit in the middle and then laminating around it. The 2 part mould would provide the fibre consolidation and compression. Making without the foam and pouring in 2 part would also work but give it a good sized vent hole so the excess comes out there.
Would you have any concerns hand laminating and vacuum bagging on a 3D printed mould, considering all the air between the infill in the mould? Would it bubble out though the epoxy?
It depends on the mould itself. It should not come through the epoxy itself as that is long cured by that stage but it is possible the mould may break or be damaged.
@@easycompositestv first of all thanks for answering so fast, 3 month old video and you answer within a few hours, you guys are just awesome. Definitely ordering all materials for my project from you. I'm not sure I understand, the epoxy would not be cured when I pull the vacuum, would it? Or do you mean the PVA would provide the vacuum barrier? I was thinking if I should maybe perforate the mould on the outside (not on the surface I need of course), to let air out that way. I am not expecting more than one use of the mould, so as long as it maintains shape under vacuum once, I'm happy.
It would be easier to vacuum bag and get better results. The complexity of the model would have to account for the layers and resin and you'd probably have to iterate to get it spot on. That's not to say you couldn't 3d print a pressing block and let it bond to the pullaway layer so you can press and put weights into corners or tricky parts, but IMO vacuum bagging is still faster if it can't have flaws. This method is a down and dirty approach that is fast and gets you to a single viable part quickly. Great if you want to test a design or just need one IMO and don't mind the extra time to refine. Check out Throttle Stop Garage if you want lots of examples of large and small part hand layup bagging.
Great video as always! Are you planning, or have some references as how to treat aluminium molds for vacuum bagging, when the surface is porous, or how to apply and which release agents to use? Cheers
Finally a messy old school wet layup with modern techniques like 3D printing.
Great stuff in this one. I'll definately have to try the 3D printing route.
By far one of the best instructional video channels on UA-cam.
Thank you very much 🙏
You are the best! Great educational videos, no nonsense and straight to the point. Keep up the good work!
Thank you John 👍
Me at 3am: InTerEsTiNg
Me with 5 dollars and a shitty and not dry Pla in the printer
3:38am
Instead of spending 5k on overrated car parts and spoilers, I think I will invest in this...I already have experience with 3d printers, just needed the carbon fiber bit..thank you
A lot of that $5k comes from having to make the mould. Doing it your self you might save 50-60% of the cost, but it's also a lot more fun and rewarding
@Elliott Pitter wow you must be so cool
@Draven Luciano @Elliott Pitter scammers
Exactly, and you can print a variety of pocket vaginas if you get the right filament material
@@VoltageLP you can always use the printer to make a silicon mold ;)
So glad I made this, make more, this is the majority of your customers.
What he said^
Have you got their sales data to back up this claim?
@@jamestrotter7852 Mr fact checker over here
4ț UK f.c.c f
Excellent video as always! Bringing 3D printing into this is a game changer, the mould production was always the hurdle for me, can’t wait to try this!
Just wanted to say that this channel has been a fantastic resource for my University's UAV team. We used a similar process to produce our carbon fiber wings. Thank you so much for the great videos and keep up the great work!
How many carbon fiber sheets did you use?
Incredible, I recently bought a 3d printer to make simple brackets and interior pieces for my car, but now the possibility of making them fibreglass or even carbon fibre is amazing
We now want a “vacuum bagging a 3D printed mould” video! Very cool, thanks Easy Composites ❤️
well it's not different then this tutorial
ua-cam.com/video/cj26c3V54SQ/v-deo.html
I was just on the phone with our machine shop discussing how awesome your channel is for people getting into composites, and how awesome your store is for getting project supplies. Thanks!
Hi Robin, thank you very much. We appreciate your support 👍
Great video! If you print with PLA, you don't have to worry about slip angles or even returns, as the mould can be warmed with a hair dryer and bent away from the part to release. It is a huge benefit.
@@mattmurphy7030 yeah, they cost virtually nothing to print, so for single or low volume, they can be 'disposable'.. it does allow some benefits not possible any other way..
Would you recommend PLA over PETG? Or are there any disadvantages to using PLA?
@@veldhuisracing PLA is good because you can melt it away from the part at a fairly low temperature. But if you have a thick layup that will get hot during curing, the mould can distort, so PETG would be better.
Thx for sharing, I want to get into this. I was wondering if my pla would be good
I can't express how much I appreciate your thorough instructions!
You’re very welcome James
3d printing engineer here, just wanted to say that i loved the video! And maybe also to point out that you (hypothetical "you", as a hobbyist, not as a full-blown composites professional) could pay a lot more attention to printing to make the mould almost perfectly smooth. With proper design and a good thick 0.8mm nozzle most of such shapes can be printed in a vase mode, say, at 0.04mm layer height, and then smoothed with a bit of dcm or elbow greace. Or sprayed with some coating to hide layer lines completely. Or dcm-smoothed and then coated. Or acetone-smoothed (if using abs) and then coated. Or... you know, the list of things that can make a perfect mould is kind of infinite
Thanks for the comments and suggestions. In our other 3D printing tutorial we did demonstrate using an epoxy coating and the finishing to a near perfect finish; if you’re making more than one part using the mould then this is worth doing. For a one off, it’s often easier to do the finishing work on the part (because it’s in the positive shape).
Why not printing the part itself, bypassing mold stage completely?..
I have no idea how I got here, but now I want to make something with carbon fiber. Great video!
Super nice that you did a tutorial on this stuff.
I have been experimenting A LOT with 3D printed parts and 3D printed moulds / mould masters up to 1.35m to make CF watersport structures.
One thing I found on the way is that PU epoxy primer (sold at HP-text....), is a superb primer to stick something to PETG. You only need like 50gr to coat the surface on a meter long part, but after that you can laminate glass or CF to the 3D printed structure without issues. You can't pull it off anymore. Maybe Easy Composites has a similair product. :)
Another thing is printing very low infill single shelled 3D printed PETG moulds, with the infill arranged as long channels (1 infill angle) and filling them up with e.g. epoxy foam.
May i ask if you have experience which coating i can use to pit permanently into the negative mold? I want to get rid of all little imperfections and layer lines but still want to be able to the the molded part out of the mold
This is EXACTLY what I was hoping to find, perfect for what I do. Thanks for your detail as always, extremely helpful.
Saludos y gracias por rasmitir▶️hanny bass🔊🤑fibra de carbono🤑
this is the greatest channel on the planet
Excellent, straightforward, very informative!
In my opinion this is one of the best channels on YT!
Thanks
Amazing sound quality and great tutorial!
This is the perfect type of content. I wouldn't be interested in vacuum sealing for 1 single one-off part usually, but now I see the process and why you'd consider it. So now I would likely actually do the vacuum sealing process. But it's really cool to know this can be done with 3D printed molds and turn out well either way.
Thanks for the comment, I’m glad this video has helped to explain a good reason behind at least some basic vacuum bagging.
Really helpful video. I especially appreciate showing how to make fixes when things don’t turn out perfect the first time.
Another excellent tutorial with two really small details that I feel are often missed and help to demystify working with resin: cleaning the shears (I assume you just throw the brushes as they're relatively cheap) and showing the drips after it had cured (i.e. not worrying that they're there)
Brushes can sometimes be reused if you clean them in acetone before the resin gels. However it needs to be a good quality brush as some of the cheaper ones, the glue holding the bristles dissolves with acetone so it falls apart.
Hi there. You are my latest UA-cam channel addiction😂 It's awesome your showing how usable and accessible your products are for small to huge projects. Great video as always(so far😉).ThankQ. TkEZ.
Excellent. An amazing example of how to take a part from prototype to finish. All within a short cycle.
Thanks Jack, glad you enjoyed it.
You wont believe
I was just showing my son(a mechanical engineer) a design to do exactly this for a part in my classic lomax 224 car
Perfect timing
That’s a cool car
WOW! I never expected that you could make something of this quality from home
Thank you for your kind comment! I'm glad you were happy with the end result, we were!
This channel is gold!
Thank you very much 🙏
Your videos are the videos that just keep giving!
Fantastic tutorial. There are no questions unanswered. Thx!
This channel is so thorough in explaining. Thank you guys.
Thank you so much for making these videos. i have learned more from watching your videos, then i have watching hundreds of other carbon fiber videos on youtube.
Interesting to see you using the mould straight from the printer. might want to give that a try.
I've made a number of 3D printed moulds for wet lay-up of glass and carbon parts and I've always coated the mould surface with a Motip filler-primer layer from a spraycan, then sanded the surface to some 400 grit (tho it is possible to go to 2000 grit and polish the mould) untill the peaks of the printlines were visible and sanded smooth but the valleys were filled. It required much less post processing since the surface was already smooth. This is especially important with carbon fiber as you need to be very cautious of the tiny fibers you're sanding off, tho wetsanding really helps.
Also, I've always liked to use 8mm wooden dowels and holes in the moulds to perfectly mate the mould sections for larger moulds that need to be glued together.
Thanks for your feedback and tips, that’s all good to hear and share. We’re generally a bit wary of rattle-can primers because the release off them can be a bit hit-and-miss (generally more miss, the amount of calls for help we get from customers who have used them!) so you might want to experiment with a product like XCR, it’s really an excellent way of coating prints 👍.
This is the first video I have seen on your channel. Your shop looks impeccable. Great content! I guess this will be my next youtube / hobby rabbit hole :D
Acetone vapour smoothing ASA moulds might be a bit of a game-changer with this..
hm you can smooth ASA w Acetone? Gonna try this.
@@csabalazar8937 and ABS but ABS sucks ;) Prusa did a breakdown on a poor-man's method here ua-cam.com/video/NiG1jDEG0kA/v-deo.html
Then again with moulds PVB and IPA might be an easier/safer solution..
@@streaky81 Yeah just go with the PVB. Smooths fine and far better printability. Unless you are super confident in your ABS/ASA printing skills; but typically for a mold you are looking at sizable parts, so you because you got your benchy tuned in doesnt mean you are good.
Seeing the prices of "carbon fiber" parts these days that aren't even real Carbon Fiber makes me wonder how much I could save in making them myself, lol. This is the 3rd video I've watched from this channel and I'm hooked! Those starter sets are quite affordable, so I may dive into one and make something simple to start. If I don't suck at it, who knows where one could go from there.
This dude is aesthetic af
as others commented, excellent, straight to the point videos, with great narration and pace. thanks for sharing.
I've been doing quiet a bit of this lately, almost always vacuum bagging. I've found that with pla and a .4mm nozzle that 3 perimeters (1.2mm wall for cura users) and 15% infill makes a mold that can withstand full vacuum. I've had this luck with both pva and mold release wax for getting parts of of the mold, with wax generally giving an easier release.
Surprised by your result! I would have thought infill density would have had to be much higher, glad you saved me a few passes. I was also curious if the resin curing process, and the heat, would be high enough to deform PLA, so I picked up clear PETG to mold with, and see any voids. But now I can save that and use PLA instead, and save the stringing for another project. Thank you Nate, I'm looking forward to my first layup!
@@GhostRyderFPV Glad to hear its helpful info. I imagine that exotherm could still be an issue for warping the PLA if you pushed it too far but I've had great success with epoxy. I've also found that for one offs it's just as easy to sand the layer lines off the finished part opposed to trying to sand the female mold before laminating. If you're going to pop more then a few out of the mold it's probably worth the time to sand the mold. I haven't pushed any of the molds to failure but i have a few that I've made 4 or 5 parts out of that seem to be in fine shape.
@@natecampbell42 _This advice is free?!_
Seriously, thank you. You've just taken the edge off the anxiety of trying this: Will the molds last, are they strong enough at 15% infill, layer line treatment on the molds. Really, thank you.
@@GhostRyderFPV No problem. Let us know your results
Hi, thank you both for your advices! I'm going to try this soon for the very first time. Any more tips and tricks?
I was budgeting the trip for training in your facility, then covid hold everything. Soon this is over will be there, thanks for the great contents.
That makes two of us!!
Commenting to get this channel more attention - I've enjoyed your videos for years now.
i do a lot of hand laid carbon fiber wings for drag cars . we spray clear gel coat first let it tack up 45 min then lay the carbon on the tacky surface the the resin, if we have a small air pocket we use a dremel to open it and put some clear gel coat in it. then we sand with 600/800 wet sand with 1000 the buff and wax. we make a beautiful part
I invested in easy composites vacuum bagging set up and I have made every single panel on my car in full carbon 😎
Wow, 530 likes in 2 hours. You guys have the best content! That proves it. Awesome work as always!
Thanks Caleb!
Another professional and informative video. Keep it up guys. It’s a valuable service. 👍
Guys, you are just great! Everything is so to the point I wish all instructional vids were like this.
Thanks a lot, we love making them.
This channel is just perfect.
Perfect timing! About to make my first glass fiber part. All these videos really help
Exactly the tutorial I needed! Thank you so much!
Glad it helped!
What I would love to see is how you assembled these two parts. Did you glued them ?
Love the combination of different techniques and retro/new technology!
Glad you enjoyed!
Still in love with your product and the tutorial. Thanks a bunch
Thanks Hoss!
great info :) .... I use a preval spayer to put on the pva release agent.... works real well. I usually spray 3 coats
Many Thanks. It's really great that you covered this topic. Compact and always to the point. That was a great help for my project.
3D Printed moulds are game changer for hobby parts or prototypes. Really need to try that. Although I need more light parts than glossy surface for model airplanes ;) Great Video, thanks!
I’m so glad I found this channel it’s so good
Thanks, glad to have you on board!
Awesome video! Is there anything special when joining both halfs together? Thanks.
Very informative video and will be giving it a try, one thing how is the joining process done?
I always think of all the kids I see complaining about heavy prosthetic legs when custom carbon fibre work like this is pretty cheap and available nowadays.
thanks for creating this tutorial. i havent really thought about using carbon fibre, because i dont have the gear, but this looks like something i could try out in the garage
Thanks Anton, yes, this is very much a process that excludes no one, even if you don’t have the printer you’ll know someone who does and the chances are they’d be happy to run a print for you, many people are just looking for genuine projects to use their printer on.
Thanks for this helpfull video. Perfect explanation. I have made my first carbon part last week in the same way.
This is why I bought a 3d printer! To make parts for my car!
Thanks for the video, again! Always happy to see a new upload from you guys
Always looking forward to all your videos!
Man this is how i imagine to use 3d print, this is a great video. Thankyou
Cheers Firza, appreciate the feedback.
I've been thinking about this process recently and now youtube presented me with this video.
Very nicely explained, professional production quality... Keep it up! Great tutorial!
You are a total wizard.
I'm just starting out and this is the exact process I'm looking at doing!
Glad to help!
You could print a plug in Vase mode as a quick option to use for pressure in the corners
I just saw a Japanese guy cutting carbon fibre sheets with no frayed edges, he taped over where he cut first. Got a nice clean edge.
Hey Paul, I'm so excited for the new video(posted 7 min ago) I'm here to comment before I have a chance to watch it. Always Topp Shelf content!!! Thank you.
Hope you enjoyed it!
Waited for this topic to explain
Thanks you made my project easier
No problem at all, glad it’s helped you.
Really good insightful video. I am learning a lot from you guys.
Massive thank you to make it so clear to understand and looking so easy of job, so I genuinely like to try make smth myself. Great example of teaching!
Glad it helped!
Hope you keep on doing a video a month! This is such great content. I've been watching for a long time, i can even remember when you had long hair.
This is going to be awesome for custom parts on a race motorcycle
Good job as always Paul
You're great in front of camera, great videos.
I've been looking for a method to increase the accuracy of my layups so that I can build an aircraft as perfectly as possible. Looks like my 3d printer is about to get very busy.
3d printing is freaking amazing
To remove the etchmarks from the printer, place a small cup of Acetone with the parts in a vacuume chamber for a few mins, or even lightly brush them with Acetone then quickly wipe it off! Smooth surfaces everytime.
Just had a look at your starter kits... if you had a sort of 'try it out kit', it might be a nice way to allow a beginner to get a feel of different materials. It would have a mold and enough materials to make the same part in say four different fabrics.
Not sure what the mold would be but it would probably be simple and something I can clutter my desk up with, at work.
I'd definitely buy that.
Hi Stuart, thank you for your comments. I totally agree that this would be a good idea, it’s something we’ve thought of before. As you say, difficult to know what mould to choose but a relatively generic shape/form (maybe a speed shape) could grace (clutter!) any desk!
What sort of dust extraction/management do you recommend when grinding/Dremmeling the flash off? I heard from some guys that I know who are ex-Lola, (now RB or Mercedes guys), that CF grinding dust is particularly dodgy (inhaling any dust/solvents to some extent obvs) Also just to say....really, and I mean really, good instructional videos, honest and straight to the point. hopefully will bring you a lot of hobbyist business.
We use a downdraft table in a ventilated cutting room. However dust extraction arms etc also work well. You still need PPE on top of any extraction.
An abundance of good advice, thank you!
Awesome video, I've got an SLA printer, so the layer lines should be even less of an issue!
Me 4am: "what is this handsome man doing with resin and why is it not a useless piece of wood with colored resin"
It IS weird to watch this - where's the "pour", the LED lights, the planing of a slab of dead tree 40 times? And not one propane torch. Sheesh!
@@GhostRyderFPV 😂
amazing and thank you! purchasing a starter kit
😀
Poly vinyl alcohol is a brilliant release agent, best way to apply it is with a small spray gun or even airbrush as the less PLA the better.
very interesting - you've taken the black-magic out of it!! thanks
Glad you enjoyed Stephen!
If you go wet layup method like this, which is suitable to choose glass fibre or carbon fibre?
You should make a foam core rudder or dagger board for a sailboat. I'm getting everything figured out. I think a 3D printed split mold in two halves but how to get the foam in? Should I use an expanding foam in each mold and then trim it flush. Or finish the board, drill a hole and then pour in the foam? I'd be worried the second method could cause warping of the part. There's also a need of reinforcement in the leading and trailing edge for dings and repairs to be taken into consideration. But my main question is regarding the foam and then best practices for gluing the two parts together. I'm assuming I need an inner lip around the perimeter to bond to?
Often the foam core is CNC or hand shaped to fit in the middle and then laminating around it. The 2 part mould would provide the fibre consolidation and compression. Making without the foam and pouring in 2 part would also work but give it a good sized vent hole so the excess comes out there.
Would you have any concerns hand laminating and vacuum bagging on a 3D printed mould, considering all the air between the infill in the mould? Would it bubble out though the epoxy?
It depends on the mould itself. It should not come through the epoxy itself as that is long cured by that stage but it is possible the mould may break or be damaged.
@@easycompositestv first of all thanks for answering so fast, 3 month old video and you answer within a few hours, you guys are just awesome. Definitely ordering all materials for my project from you.
I'm not sure I understand, the epoxy would not be cured when I pull the vacuum, would it? Or do you mean the PVA would provide the vacuum barrier? I was thinking if I should maybe perforate the mould on the outside (not on the surface I need of course), to let air out that way.
I am not expecting more than one use of the mould, so as long as it maintains shape under vacuum once, I'm happy.
Would sandwiching the fiber between two molds be likely to reduce cavities?
It would be easier to vacuum bag and get better results. The complexity of the model would have to account for the layers and resin and you'd probably have to iterate to get it spot on. That's not to say you couldn't 3d print a pressing block and let it bond to the pullaway layer so you can press and put weights into corners or tricky parts, but IMO vacuum bagging is still faster if it can't have flaws. This method is a down and dirty approach that is fast and gets you to a single viable part quickly. Great if you want to test a design or just need one IMO and don't mind the extra time to refine. Check out Throttle Stop Garage if you want lots of examples of large and small part hand layup bagging.
I like this DIY!!! I tried using 3d printed parts to make mould and do vacuum bagging. but I like this way method a lot. going to try it out.
That’s great, we look forward to hearing how you get on.
That's so cool, I will have to try!
This video is amazing. So clear.
is the carbon fiber still strong without being preloaded during molding?
Brilliant resources, thank you- super clear
Great video as always! Are you planning, or have some references as how to treat aluminium molds for vacuum bagging, when the surface is porous, or how to apply and which release agents to use?
Cheers
You would use the S120 as featured in a previous video.
Is it possible to use this method for an intake manifold? As in, wrap the carbon over a 3d print and then break the print material out from the inside