Nice tutorial! This explains why Carbon Fiber Parts are so expensive. The amount of work you have to put in it is nearly insane! I'm glad that I'm insane.
Thanks! Making a while CF plate is even harder as you need to deal with air between layers, making it flat, etc. Carbon skinning is much simpler, but gives very good result and keeps price quite down.
Dude awesome video man! Very well explained and very detailed demo. I have been wondering how to do that myself for so many things. I will just try it and let you know how it worked out.
excellent I've always been curious to do this but I had no idea how to do. Now with your video I have the idea I'm going to do my parts like this thank you
Thanks mate! The process is very easy and is quite versatile, you can also add multiple layers of fabric for strength if needed. Initial cost of materials is not that low, but then you will have them for lot of projects and in the long run it is quite cheap.
The real benefit of your process is adding CF to slightly more complex 3d printed shapes which cannot be cut from plate. For flat pieces it is a something of a false economy. As I have a CNC machine, I will continue to cut flat pieces from CF plate as I then only must consider the finishing process. Overall this would take about one-eighth of the time and, assuming you have a small CNC mill, will be less expensive than faking it.
This is what I said, perfect for non flat shapes or when you want to do it home, not everybody has access to CNC mill. This said I am currently building one exactly as I don’t have time for skinning all my projects 🤪
The obvious question is... instead of just skinning in CF - why not just make it solid CF and dont worry about the 3D printed core? Just straight CF is faster: no modeling or waiting for the 3D print; no prep work for the 3D printed core. Straight CF is stiffer and stronger, it that matters. Cost of the final part isn't really an issue. Raw CF in those quantities is pretty insignificantly cheap. The usual reason CF parts are expensive is the hand-made labor of making the parts - this method doesn't change that at all, or even increases that labor time.
Fantastic video! I never considered 3D print skinning as an option for my parts until your video. It seems like a great balance of aesthetic, strength and cost. What 3D material are you using for the best bonding and longevity? And would it be the same material if used on a daily driven motorcycle outside in the elements?
Thanks, mate! A friend of mine confirmed this process works with forged carbon as well. This unlocks great possibilities for homemade projects. If you put multiple layers cross-laid at 90deg (2-3) you are looking at very strong carbon fiber item - should be good for high torque whellbadse ;) Materials are listed in the written article in the description, all of them are real carbon finer and resin so they have the same properties. As long as you put real lacquer on top to protect it from the elements it should he fine as in normal car parts. For clear coat here it is:
@@57uyo Sorry I wasn't completely clear in my question. I mean what plastic did you 3D print with? PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, Nylon, or other? Typically you wouldn't want to use PLA for items that are outside in the heat and sun, but when they are wrapped others have said it's not so much an issue as the carbon retains the shape of the part. I'm wondering if the plastic is not so much of an issue, then which plastic would epoxy bond the best and longest to? Since PLA is the easiest and cheapest to print with then could it be used outside effectively as the core of skinned parts without issue. Or is PETG still a better route? I've only been printing for about a month and will start skinning and experimenting this month. Thanks man, and keep up the great videos!
@@EzraMitchell-cw5yu Thanks, mate! I use PLA as you said - cheapest and easiest to print. If you skin it on both side it should work, I am worried only about heat. I would lay two crossed layers per side and the 3D core would be pretty protected. Other option is to use the 3D print ad mould and lay several layers on carbon on top and produce full carbon item. For best adhesion it is enough to sand flat the surface with 240grit and the base coat makes perfect adhesion especially if vacuumed.
This is hobby scale model paint mixing bottle, for example like this one: Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! BGN6.07 | Model Painting Use Paint Bottle Corrosion Resistant Paint Empty Bottle Mixed Paint Mixing Storage Bottle With Mixing Bead a.aliexpress.com/_Evk9wXX
literally why do this when carbon sheets exist, that can be cnc'd out in 1 minute, then a quick sand to chamfer the edges and you are done, with an even more tightly tolderanced and stronger part
Same comment literally popped up 2 months ago. It is explained in the video and the written article. This can be applied to uneven surfaces, can be done at home without CNC machine by yourself and is cheaper than carbon sheets. This also is common technique when strength is not crucial. There are thousands of reasons this methods exists and I did go the long way to spend extra effort and documented it for people who would find it useful.
Nice tutorial! This explains why Carbon Fiber Parts are so expensive. The amount of work you have to put in it is nearly insane! I'm glad that I'm insane.
Thanks! Making a while CF plate is even harder as you need to deal with air between layers, making it flat, etc. Carbon skinning is much simpler, but gives very good result and keeps price quite down.
Dude awesome video man! Very well explained and very detailed demo. I have been wondering how to do that myself for so many things. I will just try it and let you know how it worked out.
Maybe it's time to post an update? Its 10 Months! :D
Great video with some great techniques! Unlike some comments I can totally see how useful this can be for non flat parts!
Thanks, mate! The technique has it’s application, not everything can be or should be cut from flat carbon sheet ;)
AWESOME WORK!
Great tutorial. Thanks!
excellent I've always been curious to do this but I had no idea how to do. Now with your video I have the idea I'm going to do my parts like this thank you
Thanks mate! The process is very easy and is quite versatile, you can also add multiple layers of fabric for strength if needed. Initial cost of materials is not that low, but then you will have them for lot of projects and in the long run it is quite cheap.
Excellent tutorial
Thanks, glad it is helping ;)
Great looking parts!
Awesome content! Keep up the good work!
Thanks, mate! Will do ;)
Wow, very well done sir, thank you!
Awesome video. Thank you
Would it not be easier to just buy/make a flat sheet of carbon in the thickness you need and laser cutting it out?
Easier yes, but much more expensive. Also you need to have where to cut it.
You can’t laser cut carbon fiber. The laser will melt a little bit of the resin but won’t touch the carbon fiber
@@FPVREVIEWS this as well ;) Skinning is great for home use
Thank you very much for this experience! :)
The real benefit of your process is adding CF to slightly more complex 3d printed shapes which cannot be cut from plate. For flat pieces it is a something of a false economy.
As I have a CNC machine, I will continue to cut flat pieces from CF plate as I then only must consider the finishing process. Overall this would take about one-eighth of the time and, assuming you have a small CNC mill, will be less expensive than faking it.
This is what I said, perfect for non flat shapes or when you want to do it home, not everybody has access to CNC mill. This said I am currently building one exactly as I don’t have time for skinning all my projects 🤪
CNC is not a comodity, 3d printers are much much more common
does this increase the strength of the 3d print? I want to use this for a 3d print rc plane
Fabulous my friend
Thank you my friend, 8 months in the making ;)
The obvious question is... instead of just skinning in CF - why not just make it solid CF and dont worry about the 3D printed core?
Just straight CF is faster: no modeling or waiting for the 3D print; no prep work for the 3D printed core. Straight CF is stiffer and stronger, it that matters.
Cost of the final part isn't really an issue. Raw CF in those quantities is pretty insignificantly cheap.
The usual reason CF parts are expensive is the hand-made labor of making the parts - this method doesn't change that at all, or even increases that labor time.
What if you require a base thickness of 5+ millimetres? Do you just build up the cf layers?
How would you make the shapes you need without a mould? At which point, it's ten times more involved as a process
@@ontec7139yeah
What base coat do you use
Black one special for carbon fiber fabric, without it using only resin it does not stick
Fantastic video! I never considered 3D print skinning as an option for my parts until your video. It seems like a great balance of aesthetic, strength and cost.
What 3D material are you using for the best bonding and longevity? And would it be the same material if used on a daily driven motorcycle outside in the elements?
Thanks, mate! A friend of mine confirmed this process works with forged carbon as well. This unlocks great possibilities for homemade projects. If you put multiple layers cross-laid at 90deg (2-3) you are looking at very strong carbon fiber item - should be good for high torque whellbadse ;)
Materials are listed in the written article in the description, all of them are real carbon finer and resin so they have the same properties. As long as you put real lacquer on top to protect it from the elements it should he fine as in normal car parts. For clear coat here it is:
@@57uyo Sorry I wasn't completely clear in my question. I mean what plastic did you 3D print with? PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, Nylon, or other?
Typically you wouldn't want to use PLA for items that are outside in the heat and sun, but when they are wrapped others have said it's not so much an issue as the carbon retains the shape of the part.
I'm wondering if the plastic is not so much of an issue, then which plastic would epoxy bond the best and longest to?
Since PLA is the easiest and cheapest to print with then could it be used outside effectively as the core of skinned parts without issue. Or is PETG still a better route? I've only been printing for about a month and will start skinning and experimenting this month. Thanks man, and keep up the great videos!
@@EzraMitchell-cw5yu Thanks, mate! I use PLA as you said - cheapest and easiest to print. If you skin it on both side it should work, I am worried only about heat. I would lay two crossed layers per side and the 3D core would be pretty protected. Other option is to use the 3D print ad mould and lay several layers on carbon on top and produce full carbon item.
For best adhesion it is enough to sand flat the surface with 240grit and the base coat makes perfect adhesion especially if vacuumed.
Where do you get your bottle that had your isopropyl alcohol in it? The one you shook to dispense.
This is hobby scale model paint mixing bottle, for example like this one: Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! BGN6.07 | Model Painting Use Paint Bottle Corrosion Resistant Paint Empty Bottle Mixed Paint Mixing Storage Bottle With Mixing Bead
a.aliexpress.com/_Evk9wXX
awesome video ! thanks
literally why do this when carbon sheets exist, that can be cnc'd out in 1 minute, then a quick sand to chamfer the edges and you are done, with an even more tightly tolderanced and stronger part
Same comment literally popped up 2 months ago. It is explained in the video and the written article. This can be applied to uneven surfaces, can be done at home without CNC machine by yourself and is cheaper than carbon sheets. This also is common technique when strength is not crucial. There are thousands of reasons this methods exists and I did go the long way to spend extra effort and documented it for people who would find it useful.
Hello everybody my name is Welcome