Climbing North America's Best Crack Boulder
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- Опубліковано 16 кві 2022
- Repeating Bourbon Legend in The South Platte, in Colorado. The boulder is noted as possibly North America's best crack boulder. It gets a moderate grade but you have to be proficient in many crack techniques to have success. Inverted double fists, lead to butterfly stacks, then some fist jamming around the first lip, followed by some easier hand and finger jamming around the second lip.
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Yeah, Pete flashed it (good effort). But we all know we came to see the joy and delight in our favorite powerhouse Maris‘ face throughout the climb.
Yeah, more Mari please!
hey pete!
Resident geologist checking in (new my degree would come in handy apart from my job haha). The reason for the Scittly features on the top vs in the crack is because the cracks are younger!
Water slowly make its way into the rock which freezes, melts and re-freezes which over time cracks the rock (a process called frost wedging). So the crack is younger and therfore less weathered than the exposed surfaces. :D
Im pretty sure your climbing-skills are increasing at least one grade when you have Pete next to you saying 'good effort'. Love it
At least!
Yeah, like you have to take care not to zerbrösel any holds/jams
Yeah having that encouragement is a big deal, it's a mental thing.
You see the same across a lot of different sports that traditionally you'd be lead to believe are solo. Sports are never really a solo thing.
Same with parkour, skateboarding, BMX, mountain biking... Lots of examples. The temptation to push your boundaries exponentially increases when you're working with friends (or evidently loved ones). There's a great tempering effect too, because your awareness of safety is no longer judged from a single perspective.
See the Storror lads for a great example of this.
I like Mari's warmup.
Step 1: Flail.
Step 2: Attack anything that obstructs flailing. :D
Mari is such a beast 💪
Mari's move bringing the foot round inside the stacked fists was most impressive!
Those camerashots of the hand/fist-jams were great. Its not often you get to see what you're all doing inside the darkness of the cracks.
Hell yeah man this looks awesome! Glad to see you all in the States doing the hard stuff! Keep it up!
Was really interesting seeing the different ways the route was climbed.
1:53 fashion before flashin' surely! Come on Pete, what a missed opportunity.
So cool to see how you move a stack. I've gotten into some and then being confused whilst getting exhausted just fallen off and gone for other betas.
We have some useful videos in our full crack school playlist which also show how to move a stack on vertical terrain. Could also be a useful watch 👍
When I grow up, I want to be like Mari. So impressive!
I love this content. I enjoy watching Pete, and Mari both for what they each bring. You both have the best personalities as well.
mari has so much fight in her. incrediable effort, that was a great watch x
Well done Mari, that was a good fight.👏🏻👏🏻
Yes - Finally hitting up south platte!
Awesome video Pete and Mari!! Make them longer please! Especially while you’re here in the states!
Chossy rock, gunshots, and a cheeky knee bar!? You got the full Colorado experience
Colorado was a good stint to our trip. We enjoyed the climbing there.
Rincon wall in Eldo Canyon was spectacular!
Couldn’t think of a more textbook South Platte experience
So sick! Making it look easy as usual! :)
Awesome job guys. Really enjoy these videos, thx for sharing.
The 21-gun salute for Mari's send was perfect lol
Pete, Mari, props! Thanks, helps a lot.
Welcome back to Colorado! Good time of the year to come, weather has been nice.
“There’s lots of gunfire around here”
That’s America…. And rural Canada
Pete telling us how he pleases the Ladies 0:18
😂
That's the old burn area, lots of target shooting areas out there (and world class fishing). Awesome to see you both in my backyard!!
Not particularly nice for the murdered animals.
@@samshorto5433 Not really much hunting out there (because it's so burned up) just good opportunity for target shooting. Regardless managed hunting often is very good for wildlife, especially in areas without enough natural predators. Also good for local economies and provides some very healthy meat for families.
@@rushthezeppelin And why do those areas not have natural predators? That's right, because we hunted them to extinction. The argument of 'we need to kill more animals because we've already killed too many animals and so now different ones need killing' is a really poor one. What you've provided is an argument for the reintroduction of predators that humans have killed off.
@@samshorto5433 I never argued that we didn't. Regardless because of that we do need to play part at keeping prey animals in check to keep their populations healthy until we can properly reintroduce those predator species which I'm certainly in favor of doing within reason. This also does provide economic benefit to said areas.
Thank you so much for sharing!
Dangit your in the Splatte? Are y'all still out here? Bourbon Legend is freaking awesome. And yes there is a popular area to shoot near there. Very likely though it's semi-auto gunfire not fully auto. Those things are exceedingly hard to aquire legally in the states and very expensive.
Sweet! Can’t wait to watch when I get home. Come climb in VA! 🤞🏼
I will watch these two all day
You are both so strong. It is awesome to watch.
The couple who do crack together, stay together. Great video!
Fighting with with the thorn bushes is an essential part of the Platte experience.
That was very good effort, Mari!
Nice sends! Classic south Platte choss and guns and lots of cracks!
Incredible! Bummed you guys couldn’t get out to Purity Ring with the raptor closures but so sweet seeing Whiskey Rocks highlighted like this. So many good crack boulders in the Platte!
Yeh, would have been nice to see that one. Another trip 😀
I'd defintely make some more trips back to the South Platte, so much to do out there. There was a 13c over that way called Skinny Love which also looked nice
@@WideBoyz We have some hard OWs and Slab climbs that still need FAs close to the river by whiskey! And some roof cracks! Plus the legendary Bottom Feeder, an anticipated 13+ OW there are pics of on MP (and I’m sure Tyler has pics)
@@TMWanish are you by chance talking about the roof crack problem near Little Wigwam Dome on the West side of the creek? Been eyeing that thing but I'm still a noob at roof OW so need to work my way up to that. As far as I can tell it's never seen a send, at least there's no evidence of it.
Also Pete bummed I missed y'all being out here. Would have loved to get a chance to learn from the wide master in person. Tyler is actually a friend of a friend of mine (although I haven't talked to that friend in a few years).
@@rushthezeppelin Nah, the mythical bottom feeder is deep in lost creek wilderness - I've been told though some new beta has been found that will probably make it go closer to 12+. I asked around about the Little Wigwam Dome Roof Crack and there's fear that it may seam out up high but nobody seems to know if there's been an ascent - aid or free
She is such a warrior!
Stoked to see you all in my neck of the woods. When you come back for Purity Ring, you’ll have to try Bishop Crack, Mississippi Half Step, Uptown Toodeloo, and Wunsch’s Dihedral. Maybe a sneaky jaunt up the Sphinx Crack?
YES!!! Fantastic effort both! You both smashed it. These vids from the desert are epic with the new drone!
Just wait for the video sequence when I try to fly it whilst hanging upside down in a 5.13 offwidth 😂
@@WideBoyz I’m counting on it being an absolute corker! 😂
We recently got Wide Boyz crack volumes at our gym (Austria) it was surprisingly hard to even lift myself from the ground 😅 Psyched for more though! Love your videos Pete especially those outdoors like troll wall that was so awesome!
Ah brilliant, cool you managed to try them volumes, there are some good technique videos on our channel if you need any jamming tips.
Glad you like the outdoor videos, more of those to come very soon from our recent States trip 🤙
Good ol’ Whiskey Rocks. A short jaunt from my previous home. Welcome to Colorado! Distant gunfire… no charge.
Love your vids, always top quality 💪👍 Great job boys n girl💪
I got knackered watching!
Rocking Norway socks bought from Kiwi! Atleast thats where I bought mine 😂 Kinda funny to see ☀️🙈
This line makes me think of Big Bob's Big Wedge in JTree... good fun if you've not done it!
Wooo, that burn-over is depressing. I've spent some time in the South Platte & Turkey Rocks, and they all look post-nuclear these days after a decade of terrible wildfires.
South Platte domes do resemble Vedauwoo's pre-Cambrian ('Sherman') granite, tho many cracks are a bit less flaring and there are better horizontal edges here and there. At Vedauwoo we call the skrittly stuff 'popcorn rock'. The selective erosion described by TheMattwasherein1992 below is also how you get those round 'Wily E. Coyote' boulders perched in unlikely places: any sharp corner has maximum surface area to volume, so it absorbs more water, which freezes and fractures off the rock. So if you begin with a cube, you end up with a sphere.🙂
I’ll be going through Colorado soon. I’m definitely going to give this boulder a shot
lots of other great wide stuff in N Whiskey Rocks too.
I've never heard of it being Kitty Littery here! I grew up climbing in Southern California and we always just called it "Chossy"!
Solid sends, and my lord Mari is well on her way to being one of (if not THE) strongest crack climbers to ever walk this planet! Keep it up!
I've heard both kitty litter and choss used to describe it in Texas and Colorado. Kitty litter is more accurate used as a subset of choss to describe the stuff that litterally just comes off in handfulls of little pebbles that very much resemble what you put in your cats litter box.
just went to the bouldering gym in Brno (hangar) and was pleasantly surprised when i saw Wide Boyz crack "holds"
Loved the salute! Haha.
I've been climbing for a few weeks and just finished my first crack climb in the gym thanks to your awesome tutorials. This crack is local to me, and definitely is going to be the new end goal for me
That is brilliant to hear 😀 good luck with it. Hanging by your feet is easier than it looks as well, you just need strong core muscles and good stacking technique to succeed 💪
Keep crushing :)
Where in Colorado are you? Denver here!
@@timwcronin Boulder. I moved here with no interest in climbing, realizing so many amazing climbs are right out my front door has made me pursue it
Such a beast!
i've been that way before. there are some really interesting multi-pitch features up by the goose creek trail head about 4 miles up
What an awesome boulder!
The Great thing about this crack boulder is it's range of sizes. There is a good and bad size for everyone somewhere on it 💪
the way your friend climbs is crazy
Great video
AMAZING 🙏
When Pete said that’s the rock quality in Colorado, I took that personally 🙁
LOL. I felt the same way at first. Yes the Platte is nothing but kitty litter! Ignore the the 30O' domes everywhere with perfect rock and zero crowds. The Gunfire comments crack me up though.
crazy, more crazy, most crazy! :-)
🧗♂️💪🥇🧗♀️💪🏅🎇 21 gun salute to you both, great video showing everything from hand and feet placement to the fight a less meaty handed person has to get that salute. Hope your having a good few days out in the (unheard of) Easter sunshine
Come climb devil's lake in Wisconsin. lots of cracks and you can ask around the quartzite we have is tough climbing. It's slick and sharp. And presents some unique challenges. And honestly I have never seen a known climber do anything here. Not climb not recording a video. But yet they say we have the best climbs in the mid west.
Yay 1K just flashed at my thumbs up, never seen that b4
Y'all gotta come up and get on Souvenir at the New River Gorge in West Virginia! V6 30ft offwidth roof boulder crack. Just watch out for the spiders!
Nice sends~!
You’ve got to try enchanted rock in Texas!! awesome granite trad climbing
This is quality of Colorado?! 🤣🤣🤣. What a statement. Btw. Tried your volumes first time at a gym in Brno Hangar ( Adam Ondra's playground) the other day and I loved them! And one more thing. I did my first crag outside yesterday. Very easy crag at my home town but it made my day! 🎉🥳😇
Are they the black and white wooden ones there?
Glad you got too try them, hopefully we can get some of our new Fibreglass models with Soft Grip Pro over there soon enough
They have a new inner which is even nicer to climb on 💪
@@WideBoyz Yup. The ones you rent out. They were very good but since Hangar is overcrowded at all times, the insides were very slippery from peoples hand grease 🤣. Awesome, looking forward to them :). Cheers.
Agreed….a very ignorant statement. Colorado certainly has it’s fair share of choss…..probably should avoid it all together next time 🤷♂️
@@jjns3991624 Having climbed Europe's chossiest wall and enjoy places like Craig Doris in North Wales, I'd safely say we like choss 🙂 we're up for seeking it out
@@WideBoyz Yeah, my issue isn’t your relationship with choss it’s the fact that you would go to one boulder in a pretty big state with tons of rock in all forms and different qualities and say, “…this is the quality of Colorado” while you breaking apart choss in your hands.It would be like me going over to the UK and finding some dog shit on the side of the road and saying, “yup this pretty much sums UK climbing”.
“I feel like we are going to get shot.” That sure sounds like climbing in the south platte! There is a long history of that in the area, especially on bucksnort slab and sphynx rock. If anybody needs a good read check out the comments sections under those areas on mountain project.
Hell there's even a route called Turkey Shoot named such because a landowner thought they were tresspassing mid route on the FA and purposefully sent a round into the rock very close to them as a warning. I think the person in question later got a stern talking to from the Sherriff? I don't remember but the story is in the comments of that route on MP.
When are you guys gonna come down to the Southeast of the US? Tennessee has some of the best single-pitch cracks in the US, with a different type of sandstone that's much tougher than the desert sandstone you see in the West. Don't let the Rockies get all the love!
We've left already. We did Eldo, South Platte, Escalante Canyon and Indian Creek (plus surrounding areas). Solid trip. More videos to come
If ya'll are in Colorado looking for cracks try Breashers Crack II In Morrison CO. It is Graded V3 But it is said to be the Best V3 in Colorado.
It’s a pretty cool crack climb, but an absolute walk for these too!
"Fashion before flash"
Make a t-shirt out of that. Please !
😂👌
and socks!
Flashion?
They LOVE their guns in the South Platte
An awesome technique video! Shows that both smaller hands and sausage fingers will do the job if used properly 🤚✊🤲🤛🤞🤘
Pete and Mari, such an honor to have you out here crushing in CO - here's hoping next time you're sending, you get to feel a little more comfortable and get a little more quiet. As a native Coloradan, I have to say I'm almost jealous how unused to the sounds of gunfire you both are. I hope you enjoyed the climbing enough that the gun culture can't keep you away!!! We're not all gun nuts out here, promise!
The crack house near Moab just smiles at the title.
Yay Mari
You know you're in America when you're worried about getting shot while bouldering.
Come try “La Zébrée“ it's a hard 5.14 crack in Canada
Check out Main Elk on MP, it's a beautiful crag in Colorado with great sport routes
Way to dodge those bullets during the topout Mari!
That Colorado rock quality reminds me of the high quality conglomerate found in North Scotland. 😂
Feels to me that the amount of technique and effort required to send this problem should put it higher than a V6, maybe a V7 at least?
Nice
excellent footage -- loved being able to see hands + feet inside the crack
What is the song name at the end? I've heard it in a bunch of youtube videos and it gets stuck in my head all the time lol
Fashion bevore Flash!🤣🤣🤣
are you in Utah right now? season is great so far
The outside part of that boulder is totally crumbly, I didnt know rocks got like that.
You guys should come up to wyoming next time you're out here and climb in vedauwoo
I've climbed alot in Vedauwoo in the past actually. Mari's not been, I suspect she may visit one day!
@@WideBoyz thanks for the response! Made my day
What is that song you played in the middle of the video right before Pete flashed?
Been to Vedauwoo? It's kind of overrun lately but there's some nice rock.
Yes we've climbed alot in Vedauwoo. Fantasic location and routes 👌
Did you help design those UP shoes ?
Nicely done both of you!
Do you get to have your own gun in America?
I live in Denver! So cool to see something climbed by y'all so close to me!!
The way you described the gun fire sounds like a semi-automatic. Automatic in the sense the gun's hammer sets itself and a round is chambered (think of the thumb action on a revolver not being needed.) Semi in the sense that one trigger pull is one round discharged. Fully automatic have rounds being fired continuously when the trigger is engaged. Lot of target shooting in that area. You should check out a range sometime!
Cheers mate!
"Fashion before flash[in']"
1:32 Ahhhh yes, welcome to America
at least here on the east coast ive heard that scrittaly rock called choss
Big Bob’s big wedge in JTree is better, and a hold broke near the top which makes it’s go more like V8
Love the gunfire in the background. "Welcome to America!!!" I live in Colorado and have had people shoot at the rock I was climbing (they were far away, didn't see us.). No IQ test required to buy a gun.
Mari Salvesen