Climbing World's Most DANGEROUS Big Wall
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- Опубліковано 15 гру 2024
- Troll Wall, the tallest rock face in Europe, and possibly one of the most dangerous. The danger of the wall doesn’t come from difficulty, steepness or height, but from the quality of the rock itself; It’s loose.
Not loose in a way that you might break a hand or foot hold, more terrifyingly loose that the whole feature you are pulling on could peel away. It feels solid until something goes wrong, then when it goes wrong…it can really go wrong.
With the continuous freeze thaw cycles between seasons, plus the rocks architecture and steepness, It’s not surprising that the cliff is falling down. It’s a standing pile of rubble that is glued together with moss, permafrost and hope.
There has been a long history on the Troll Wall of success, failure, rock fall and deaths from avalanche, dating back to the mid 1960s. In 1965 two teams, 1 British, 1 Norwegian, raced to make the first ascent of the wall, topping out just one day apart from each other. For both teams this must have been one of the most significant feats of big wall climbing in the world at the time.
1981 brought the first free ascent of the wall, by a joint Norwegian/British team. Their ascent was documented in ‘The Vertical Mile’. A film which excellently shows the dangers and toil that go into free climbing a piece of rock like this.
In 1998 a significant portion of the 1965 British route fell down. The rock fall was so large it measured 2.5 on the Richter scale. There have been many further impressive first ascents both in winter and summer, aid and free, but fast forward to more recent years and its local climber Sindre Saether who has really left a significant mark on the wall, being the first to free aid lines which were previously thought unfreeable.
From researching what i could and watching the documentaries, I knew the wall wasn’t to be taken lightly. No matter what standard of climber you are, it’s impossible to out run a house sized block detaching itself from the wall and spraying itself on the approach scree. To climb it, patience would be key.
Climbers:
Instagram @petewhittaker01, @mariaugstahs
Thanks and Credits:
Thanks to Matti Bernitz for the drone footage
Thanks to Vertebrate Publishing for the photos from the 1965 ascent
Thanks to Magnus Skånøy for the thumbnail photo
Vertical Mile film - www.mntnfilm.c...
Thanks to Andy Kirkpatrick for extra video clips - vimeo.com/2994...
Check out Tony Howards book from the 1965 British ascent here:
Troll Wall: www.v-publishi...
Quest into the Unknown: www.v-publishi...
Music:
Measured Paces by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. creativecommon...
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Artist: incompetech.com/
Crossing the Threshold - Ghostpocalypse by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. creativecommon...
Source: incompetech.com...
Artist: incompetech.com/
Meditation Impromptu 03 by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. creativecommon...
Source: incompetech.com...
Artist: incompetech.com/
Matt's Blues by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. creativecommon...
Source: incompetech.com...
Artist: incompetech.com/
Lost Frontier by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. creativecommon...
Source: incompetech.com...
Artist: incompetech.com/
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I apologise for the incorrect historical fact at the beginning. The First free ascent of the wall was done in June in 1979 by the locals Ragnhild Amundsen and Hans Christian Doseth, they did Rimmon Route. The first free ascent of the Swedish Route (the one mentioned in the video) was done in June 1980 by Hans Christian Doseth, Steve Bancroft and Choe Brooks.
Thanks and Credits:
Thanks to Matti Bernitz for the drone footage
Thanks to Vertebrate Publishing for the photos from the 1965 ascent
Thanks to Magnus Skånøy for the thumbnail photo
Vertical Mile film - www.mntnfilm.com/en/film/troll-wall-the-vertical-mile-1981
Thanks to Andy Kirkpatrick for extra video clips - vimeo.com/29949987
Check out Tony Howards book from the 1965 British ascent here:
Troll Wall: www.v-publishing.co.uk/books/narratives/troll-wall/
Quest into the Unknown: www.v-publishing.co.uk/books/narratives/quest-into-the-unknown/
Amazing and scary, great job team!
Adding some important historical entries by Polish climbers:
1968 Halina Kruger-Syrokomska & Wanda Rutkiewicz - first ascent in women-only team
1973 Wojtek Kurtyka - first winter ascent
Yep sure was!
Thanks for the video. I think that the north face of Eiger in Switzerland is 100 m higher. It is the tallest wall in the alps, but I am not sure if it is the tallest in Europe.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eiger
If you had sended early in the yr would you and Mari have done some more routes or was it a pants eating day and your not going back. Are there less arse Pickering routes further down the valley than this ?
@@dave_h_8742 1 route is enough for the year. Also getting conditions is never easy, we'd bailed twice due to it being wet. Directly across the valley there is more solid rock and nice multipitch climbs. We climbed there a bunch 👍
This was amazing Pete!
when I saw the video I hoped it was your 1 Million special.
Amazing and beautiful
Waiting for Magnus to campus this...
Pete in Magnus’ backyard, poaching his home terrain, poaching YT content. Sorry Magnus
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ua-cam.com/video/PAhy0_-Krz8/v-deo.html
i loved the editing of this. It feels so intimate, like finding a diary of a long forgotten climbing couple
yeah it's so nice
very true, gives it a unique feel in the context of youtube climbing footage
Pete and Mari’s Norwegian adventures are always a treat but this was exceptional!
"I'm living it right now, it's my best life" - Pete Whittaker 2021 feeling ill on the Troll Wall.
Never thought the Troll Wall could look this romantic.
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ua-cam.com/video/PAhy0_-Krz8/v-deo.html
@@sandamimahasha7999 post spam! 👆💩👎
🤣🤘
Insane, also very romantic. Pete with corona and Mari with worms having bivi ledge fish all accompanied by a romantic piano track, looks like a good time.
Well done!
One of my big regrets as a climber is that I never made it up the Troll Wall, specifically the Swedish route. After 3 weeks of very nice weather in the summer of 1982 (or 83?) I met up with two friends from Trondheim, camped at the bottom ready to go and then the weather turned 180 degrees during the night to cold rain and wind, with a forecast of two more weeks of the same. The Norwegian route you just did was known as "overhanging scree and rubble", or at least that's what the first ascensionists called it, it has had _very_ few repeats.
Good to see Troll Wall back in the news. Some great memories up there.
Incredible ascent back in 1965 👏👏
So nice that the videos on which Mari also takes part have another sense of humor and intensity, even intimate. Battling whatever challenge is ahead as a true team in which no part could be missed for succes.
This was such a good mini documentary. You smashed the format, Pete.
It was really nice to hear Mari on the commentary. I think the choice to record voiceovers separately (and not conversing over the footage) really fit the mood of the climb.
if you want to check out some more climbing content I just posted a new video and would love to hear what you think.
Ok . It's nice
Yeah, Hans Christian Doseth and his gf made the first free ascent of Troll Wall in 1979 (Rimmon route). The memorial stone include the accident of Rune Thrap Meyer and Håkon Staver in 1985, but that was on the other side of valley (Breitind). How Håkon survived that, was an amazing story, crawling with broken legs in a snowstorm, trying to stop the last train by waving his hand. The train stopped and picked him up.
This vid gave a very realistic view of how I remember the Troll Wall from almost 40 years ago. The climate have changed, so maybe less avalanches and more rock fall now, but it is a serious big wall. The trolls are at the top, they get kicks from throwing rocks at climbers. :)
Stay safe
I stumbled on your video while verifying details of a report on the Luftforsvaret 'Super Long Line' techniques for helicopter rescue on big walls. Some of the Troll rescues are almost as scary as the accidents. A mad mad location. Well done for living through it so elegantly!
Not only wide boyz, also wide girlz. She has a nice presenter voice
Superb cinematography, editing, storytelling and commentary and of course excellent climbing! Keep killing it wide boyz!
11 years ago I went with friends wild camping in that area. We arrived in front of Trollveggen but didn't know where to cross the river. We asked locals how we could get under the wall. They looked at us with a perplexed face and said "you don't". We decided we'd look for a way after a quick lunch break. While we were eating, rock fell in a quantity sufficient to cause a cloud that lingered for 15 minutes. Of course we did not cross the river.
I love the sound of the voice coming from behind the camera 🎥 it’s so intimate and really draws you into your experience it’s makes me feel like I’m with you on the wall.
I live like 2 hours away and have seen the Troll wall many times, but never in my life have i thought about climbing it. We used to joke about sledding or skiing down it, but standing at the base looking up at the wall your mind changes quickly :D Congratulations and good luck on future climbs :)
What an absolutely crazy story! Thanks Pete and Mari for putting this all together
Great climbing, great movie referring to our grandparents from the past ... Congratulations!
The Troll Wall has a long history and every climb will be remembered for a long time, but what Sindre Saether and his father did in 2010 is amazing! Arch Wall is probably the most risky trad climbing in Europe, and maybe even. My friends and I spent thirteen days on Arch Wall in the winter of 1994, making the first winter pass and the second repetition at all. I ran A4 + aid pitches on the Arch and I know how difficult it is to do a classic climb. Yes, Troll Wall is a beautiful and very difficult wall.
More congratulations for a great climb and a great movie!
Terrifying, truly.
But that bonding feeling you have during this kind of experience must be soul lifting !
Terrifying, truly... yes!
Bonding and soul lifting... NO!
I fear it would expose my cowardly inner childlike self, crying and sniveling,
desperately holding on for dear life unable to move while dripping of diarrhea...
id have to kick my better half of the wall just to hide my shame!
yeah... i ain`t climbing no damn troll mountain, these guys are FREAKS! 👀
@@ralphbooger4756 it does both, I'll be honest.
who thought climbing a loose stack of rocks could be this romantic
if you want to check out some more climbing content I just posted a new video and would love to hear what you think.
Awesome film! Loved the historical context and Mari and Pete's dialogue throughout.
Inspiring video. Now I’m definitely, totally sure that the troll wall isn’t a place I’m going to climb ever :)
Great work by both of you climbing it!
I am afraid of heights so, this was difficult to watch. I definitely felt vertigo several times. Totally worth it to see you two incredible people pull this off. Just amazing what people do in this world.
if you want to check out some more climbing content I just posted a new video and would love to hear what you think.
Drove past Troll wall this summer. I did shead a tear when I reached the parking lot near the tourist centre. It was like my mind couldn't quite get the scale of the wall. It was at the same time just like it understood just that, the scale, size, vastness of it. Incredible place, incredible climb of you lot.
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ua-cam.com/video/PAhy0_-Krz8/v-deo.html
Been there, looked at it, bailed. Three times.
Don't think I'm going for a fourth, but it's so tempting when you're not actually there.
You know what they say, fourth time is the charm.
Also much easier to challenge it from the south. You can actually drive your car half way up
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ua-cam.com/video/PAhy0_-Krz8/v-deo.html
Mari: What do you want to do today?
Pete, after 27 hours of near continuous climbing: Dunno, go climbing?
What an amazing adventure! Congratulations for the summit and thanks for documenting it in this well-done video.
Easily one of the best videos on the channel! Nice job guys!
Incredible storytelling guys, feels like I was there with you. 11 more pitches to go after 16 or so already is just mental. How you can concentrate and have the energy for so long is very impressive.
A new documentary format; rock-rom! Absolutely gorgeous couple in perfect harmony in a terrifying environment. Fantastic!!
this is film festival level shiz!!! Absolutely awesome video. best on the channel so far. Brilliant adventure!
Yo Mari is a champ for scaling this scary wall too! also 11:33 made me freaking crack up laughing
Pete- "Helllloooo!"
Mari- "i want fish"
Great film, thank you! I climbed the Rimmon route back in 1994. That was a great climb and the 4 crux pitches was amazing climbing on solid rock. Remember all but the first pitch as good climbing. To bad it all fell down.
However the approach was terrifying, I remember we called it the suicide minefield. Just like you describe in the film. Thanks for sharing this!
The Elements take their Job as Routesetters very seriously on this Piece of rock.. new Routes every other day..
This is an absolutely epic and thrilling story! And Pete and Mari, you are definitely living the best life (-;
This film is a great combination of documentary of the wall's history and an up to date climb. Nicely edited, put together, filmed, and narrated.
So Trollveggen is substantially longer than Yosemite, but much worse rock and much worse weather. Hmmm.....
all adds to the excitement!
You guys seem like an awesome power couple.
Incredible short film Pete, your developing story-telling skills have really shone bright here. Great effort up the wall too, great work keeping safe 👌
Such a good video I really appreciate the all the history and context you gave along side the climbing I wish all climbing UA-cam could be more like this
So great to see something of this wall close up; I was so expecting you to turn back early on with those big rockfalls!
I have a vivid memory of sitting on top of the Romsdalshorn looking across the valley at the Troll Wall, hearing the continuous rockfall and thinking "I'm very glad I'm not over there!"
Absolute brilliant production so enjoyable . So honest and informed . Loved it .
This was like an ad for having a life partner who climbs 😍 Awesome video too!
Well done and thanks for taking the effort to film it for us. Very appreciated
Incredible you two! Terrifying, and the added element of getting I’ll half way up! Hope you are well recovered 👍
Beautiful summit buddies! Well done.
Great video Pete! Can't wait for another Pete and Magnus video!
if you want to check out some more climbing content I just posted a new video and would love to hear what you think.
I love the first drone shot from Litlefjellet, I was there last summer... even this drone shot doesn't really capture the giant chasm that's at your feet... that place is absolutely insane, I hope one day I'll be coming back there.
Great video, so interesting thank you.
Having climbed peaks in the Himalayas (small stuff circa 6000m) I realised that they are just giant piles of choss held together by ice and frozen soil with a variable layer of snow. A couple degrees of warming and it would all slide away and nothing I was climbing on was really steep.
The Troll wall looks really intimidating even if it was secure and when a climber as accomplished as Pete is in his own words ‘scared’, that means it’s not hype that it’s the most dangerous in the world.
Much respect Pete and Mari.
One of the best UA-cam films I’ve watched. Epic adventure so well filmed and documented. Brilliant
I’ve read of Kirkpatrick’s exploits on the Troll Wall, but have seen very little video footage of the face? Thus this video is very interesting indeed. Subscribed.
Watching this bought back some memories... myself and 3 mates climbed the Rimmon Route back in the summer of 88, apart from the lower slabs I actually remember some pretty good climbing. Sounds like most of it has now fallen down. We went back in February 90 (I think it was) for a winter attempt which didn't go so well... spent several days sitting on a ledge after the first day due to really bad weather. Fun times!
You two are insane. Well done Mari and Pete!
What a beautiful film, It felt sweet and sentimental. I love how that can be had in such a dangerous situation.
Amazing content!! The Troll wall is epic, and so are you guys!
Thanks so much for this beautiful video! I felt like I was with you. Yet I did not risk my life!!! Glad you and Mari are safe.
Hi Yann! Love your solo climbing test videos!
@@WillyoDee Thanks so much 😀 !!!
That was a great video. Everything about it was spot on and compelling to watch. You two have so much soul.
Man just imagine the ancient people that discovered that wall. The sounds constantly coming from that place and giant boulders detaching and falling from the wall for, seemingly, no reason at all. No wonder they named it Troll Wall, I'd love to hear some of the stories that came from there. Old Norwegian stories are the best.
Unbelievable endurance from the two of you. Well done
Thanks for taking us along for the ride! What an experience!
The opening made me curious how you view risk and if there are climbs - perhaps historically significant ones - which you wouldn’t touch because they’re fundamentally too risky? Projects which would ordinarily suit your skill set and be doable, but don’t feel worth it when assessing the risks.
I guess it doesn't get much riskier that that. Apart from E11 stuff maybe..
No idea what the relationship is here, but that video was oddly romantic and warming. The music definitely helped with that towards the end of the video.
This was a masterpiece!!! Truly!
Amazing job. Love the diversity of stuff you put out
Cracking video. Really enjoyed the bit of historical context at the start. Also all the rock fall looked so sketchy. Glad it all went well.
Wow felt scared watching this lol well done!
One of the best youtube video I've seen, absolutely brilliant!
This was an amazing short documentary. Really great to see you guys topping out. And glad I ticked off Rimmon Route (no longer there because of rockfall) in 1994 because it does not look pleasant to try it now. :-) I love Romsdalen and it is a great area all around.
Just finished John Longs book Icarus Syndrome, and he talks about Troll Wall. He was filming the largest BASE jump in the world at the time, so it’s super cool to be able to see someone climb it.
The one they filmed had a 18 second free fall, but most of the fall was only about 10 feet from the wall.
Very very nice film, it show very well the dangerous part of the climb and the difficulty but it's a really peaceful movie, one of your best video so far!! Congratulations for the achievement!
Woah. I love her narrative voice. I love that cinematography. I love your storytelling and tension built by things going around you and climb initself. What a great, thrilling, exciting episode. Ive watched it with my mouth open. Great job! I want more :D
Wide boys are my best climbing channel I love they way Pete goes into detail about the wall he is climbing I would love to climb with you guys one day keep up the good work and stay safe out there
Wow. Incredible wee climbing movie. And somehow extremely heart-warming. Great job on the ascent to you both.
To be honest, I think I find sketchy rock faces more scary to watch than free soloing. Not much you can do when a bus-sized bit of rock appears out of the mist... :s
that was brilliant. I read the book Fiva about an ascent in 1969 so it was super cool to see the actual wall. so cool. wish it was a much longer video though! glad you made it back alive :)
This reminds me of reading classic mountaineering books back in the 80s by Scott, Boardman, Bonnington etc etc. Rocks hurtling down the mountain face, crap belays, crap snow. Excellent short film and well done on the climb, rather you two than me!
Yet another classic love story that revolves around scaling the "cliffs of insanity"
underrated comment
Legends, both of you. What a job well done!
Hey, that movie shows a lot of what it is all about! I really love it. Especially sharing it with someone that is really close.
the second ascent of the Troll wall Rimmond route was done by John Stanger and Pete Livesey. Pete was the technical star, but John had alpine endurance. Sure they used some aid but where they could free climb more quickly they did. It was done before sticky rubber and gortex and fleece. the weather got a bit colder near the top and John took over. History hardly knows. I do because they were my mentors.
Scary from a distance . That was enough for me . RESPECT.
Wow, this was outrageous :O If you had more footage I would have gladly watched a much, much longer video of this, amazing :O
Brilliant! What an adventure but don't think I'd fancy it much. Nice edit too.
Probably the best you tube vid I've watched. Just excellent.
This was a great film. Huge respect to you both for a long day out. You seem to have a great relationship together and it shows in the video. Bravo.
And I thought Eastside Sierra Nevada had a lot of rock fall in summer. Had a Bowling ball fly right past me on North Pal and almost quit climbing, can't imagine watching those falls and not bailing. Props
"Our senses even became alert to other noises, thinking that it could be rockfall, when in fact, it wasn't."
Gotta say, Pete, I'm really disappointed, that you missed the opportunity to either fart, make a fart noise, or edit a fart noise in there.
I really loved this video, I like the vlog style, feels like we are a lot closer to you climbing up the mountain. I even think you could do longer style vids - 24 hours climbing is a lot to fit into a 16 minute video ^.^
The skill of distributing your weight on as many loosely stacked blocks as possible at the same time accompanied by the sound of wrrrrrrrr.. Great mini movie.
Amazing experience. Well done Pete & Mary
This was one of the better things I've seen on UA-cam.
"They're not that hard an opponent, they're an average team, it's just that their players sometimes stab you during the match"
That was an awesome climbing vlog/mini documentary, I'm super stoked to climb rn!
What an amazing film, keep killing it with these!!!
You are so precious together. 🤩
What an amazing achievement !
Imagine that the first winter climbing (Piotrowski, Kesicki, Kowalewski, Kurtyka, 1974 ) took 13 days! Sleeping on those walls in winter is unbelievable.
Great video Pete - a dangerous place.. Thanks for sharing 👍
Mari is so soft spoken and calm. You two are very sweet.
Wonderful job Pete and Mari!😊❤️😊❤️👏👏👏
Best yet! Great story telling!!
Well done guys but really don’t go again! I have watched you do many climbs and thought that looks great I would love to do that. Not this one! Hats off to you both