Thanks for posting this, James! My '21 Continental GT 650 (Euro 4), here in the United States, has the same issue...starts on first or second attempt when it's a cold start. On the other hand...it takes a few attempts to start it again after riding and the engine has been warmed up. I have replaced all four relays on the left side panel, a completely new battery, fuel system cleaner, spark plugs, ignition wires, valve adjustments, and even removed the fuel pump and fuel filter from the fuel tank to empty and clean them...yet still have the issue. I just ordered an EVAP delete kit from SmartMoto Electronics and will GLADLY put in the time to remove this system myself! I will also be deleting the AIS system and blocking off the exhaust section with finned covers. Glad to see and hear it resolved your starting issues!
Yep, that sounds exactly like my bike used to be! It must have been very frustrating for you to do all that work and still find you had starting problems! I think k you will find that, once you’ve removed the Evap, all those problems will disappear immediately. Your symptoms are exactly the same as what I had. When you remove the Evap cartridge, hold it upside-down and see if petrol drips out. Or, even better, saw the end off and see how soaked the charcoal is inside. Please keep us all posted on this.
@@internetpolification I removed the EVAP charcoal canister, and unnecessary tubing/hoses then rode 150 miles = 242 kilometers in 80°F = 27°C weather. Perfect start on the first try every time I shut it off, and smoother idle with no issues! Game changer 🙌
Thank you……I do my best! Not glitzy and I’m only using an iPad……. Yes, me too re the outcome. I couldn’t believe how bad my bike was when I first got it (secondhand..)i thought I’d been sold a lemon and was on the pint of getting rid of it. Then I removed the evap system and..hey presto….a total transformation….
@@internetpolification we are exactly alike in experience. I got mine secondhand too (Himalayan) and i thought mine was a lemon. I had to replace my fuel pump which i got a third party mechanic to do because bike wouldn't start and fuel pump wouldn't prime but and ever since then my starts were flawless. Fast forward around 8000 kms into my rides I've started stalling bad. Fuel pump is fine but I'm trying to isolate the issue and i think it could be the evap. Deleted it today on my own. Will test ride it to see if it's going to work which i hope will finally as i am at the edge myself. Will try to edit the comment when it does.
I think the charcoal should keep working basically forever. If the unit isn't purging or purging too much that suggests the operating valve not working correctly.
@@orange42 I doubt that. The purge valve is a simple solenoid. Theoretically, the charcoal should last forever but if it gets drenched in fuel, the charcoal turns to sludge and the evap system is then kaput. It happens all the time
workshop manual states if evap unit becomes like yours, it should be replaced. just the black charcoal unit. did not even know the bike had such a thing till I read the manual!
Yes, that’s what it says. However, the charcoal cartridges become clogged with petrol if the tank is “overfilled”. There isn’t really a definition of ‘overfilling’. Mine and other people’s cartridges have become sodden with petrol without knowing why. The whole EVAP system is a compliance setup and a cheap one at that. It is a solution to a problem that doesn’t really exist, namely ‘pollution’ from a fuel tank breather, as defined mainly by the USA. As I mention in the video, the ‘pollution’ from a fuel tank breather is negligible (my bike is in a garage which gets warm due to the roof colour…I smelled more petrol with the Evap on, than I do without it on…because I NEVER smell petrol in there now) and won’t counteract massive pollution from other, unaddressed sources. My bike took two starts from cold and three from hot before it ran properly….every single time. After removing the Evap system, it starts first time, every time. The system itself is crude, cheaply made and better off in a dustbin, quite honestly 😀
@@morrisminor56 I think it’s to comply with California emissions laws……a state where it’s illegal to wear perfume in the street. Says it all. Honestly. You wouldn’t believe the difference removing that Evap system makes. I thought I’d made the wrong choice of bike at first, with all the difficult starting every single time. Removed the Evap and….[effect thereafter!
Mine's been playing up, cutting out, poor starting etc. It's booked in for it's 1 year service. I'll have to tell them not replace the evap cannister because I'm going to delete it. One question though, electrically, what does the plug do? Is there a resistor in it the same value as the purge valve so the ECU thinks it's still there?
You could just leave the purge valve in place…but with nothing but the electrical wires attached. From what other people have said though, a 4 ohm resistor does the trick. Honestly, ditching the Evap system will cure ALL the problems you mentioned
Yes. That’s why I removed the entire Evap system, as per a previous video. And it’s not even “constantly”…..even one overfill (which nobody seems able to define) ruins it.
Mmm….yes, that is an idea but I’ve found in the past that the engine sounds noisier through them. I did fit a Dynaflow filter after removing the snorkel and using the supplied triangular adapter. I hated the sucking sound coming from under my seat and put the OEM kit back on!
Pods are a BAD idea on the Interceptor as you'll lose bottom end and midrange power for a very minimal gain up on top. The ECU absolutely won't play nice with pods either without lots of tuning changes so unless you fit a PowerTronic tuner...the stock tuning is going to run poorly. If you want to do something that actually makes more power...the low restriction air filters are good and if you trim the intake stacks 2" it'll free up some horses while retaining most of the bottom end torque.
Thanks for posting this, James!
My '21 Continental GT 650 (Euro 4), here in the United States, has the same issue...starts on first or second attempt when it's a cold start. On the other hand...it takes a few attempts to start it again after riding and the engine has been warmed up.
I have replaced all four relays on the left side panel, a completely new battery, fuel system cleaner, spark plugs, ignition wires, valve adjustments, and even removed the fuel pump and fuel filter from the fuel tank to empty and clean them...yet still have the issue.
I just ordered an EVAP delete kit from SmartMoto Electronics and will GLADLY put in the time to remove this system myself! I will also be deleting the AIS system and blocking off the exhaust section with finned covers.
Glad to see and hear it resolved your starting issues!
Yep, that sounds exactly like my bike used to be! It must have been very frustrating for you to do all that work and still find you had starting problems! I think k you will find that, once you’ve removed the Evap, all those problems will disappear immediately. Your symptoms are exactly the same as what I had. When you remove the Evap cartridge, hold it upside-down and see if petrol drips out. Or, even better, saw the end off and see how soaked the charcoal is inside. Please keep us all posted on this.
@@internetpolification I removed the EVAP charcoal canister, and unnecessary tubing/hoses then rode 150 miles = 242 kilometers in 80°F = 27°C weather. Perfect start on the first try every time I shut it off, and smoother idle with no issues! Game changer 🙌
There you go! And a couple of pound of useless hardware less. I’m very pleased for you!
Good video mate. Appreciate the outcome you experienced
Thank you……I do my best! Not glitzy and I’m only using an iPad……. Yes, me too re the outcome. I couldn’t believe how bad my bike was when I first got it (secondhand..)i thought I’d been sold a lemon and was on the pint of getting rid of it. Then I removed the evap system and..hey presto….a total transformation….
@@internetpolification we are exactly alike in experience. I got mine secondhand too (Himalayan) and i thought mine was a lemon. I had to replace my fuel pump which i got a third party mechanic to do because bike wouldn't start and fuel pump wouldn't prime but and ever since then my starts were flawless. Fast forward around 8000 kms into my rides I've started stalling bad. Fuel pump is fine but I'm trying to isolate the issue and i think it could be the evap. Deleted it today on my own. Will test ride it to see if it's going to work which i hope will finally as i am at the edge myself. Will try to edit the comment when it does.
Want to bet it’s the Evap? That’s my guess!
I think the charcoal should keep working basically forever. If the unit isn't purging or purging too much that suggests the operating valve not working correctly.
@@orange42 I doubt that. The purge valve is a simple solenoid. Theoretically, the charcoal should last forever but if it gets drenched in fuel, the charcoal turns to sludge and the evap system is then kaput. It happens all the time
@internetpolification yeah so if it isn't switching then the signal to it is bad or the unit itself is
@ the issue with the Evap is never the purge valve. It’s the fact that the charcoal becomes full of raw petrol. That’s why it’s best to remove it
@internetpolification well I've removed it. Not sure if it's helped at all but no worse.
Sir do i need to remain connected the purge valve if i delete the evap
workshop manual states if evap unit becomes like yours, it should be replaced. just the black charcoal unit. did not even know the bike had such a thing till I read the manual!
Yes, that’s what it says. However, the charcoal cartridges become clogged with petrol if the tank is “overfilled”. There isn’t really a definition of ‘overfilling’. Mine and other people’s cartridges have become sodden with petrol without knowing why. The whole EVAP system is a compliance setup and a cheap one at that. It is a solution to a problem that doesn’t really exist, namely ‘pollution’ from a fuel tank breather, as defined mainly by the USA. As I mention in the video, the ‘pollution’ from a fuel tank breather is negligible (my bike is in a garage which gets warm due to the roof colour…I smelled more petrol with the Evap on, than I do without it on…because I NEVER smell petrol in there now) and won’t counteract massive pollution from other, unaddressed sources. My bike took two starts from cold and three from hot before it ran properly….every single time. After removing the Evap system, it starts first time, every time. The system itself is crude, cheaply made and better off in a dustbin, quite honestly 😀
@@internetpolification agree with you, just another thing not wanted or needed.
@@morrisminor56 I think it’s to comply with California emissions laws……a state where it’s illegal to wear perfume in the street. Says it all. Honestly. You wouldn’t believe the difference removing that Evap system makes. I thought I’d made the wrong choice of bike at first, with all the difficult starting every single time. Removed the Evap and….[effect thereafter!
Mine's been playing up, cutting out, poor starting etc. It's booked in for it's 1 year service. I'll have to tell them not replace the evap cannister because I'm going to delete it.
One question though, electrically, what does the plug do? Is there a resistor in it the same value as the purge valve so the ECU thinks it's still there?
Sorry, just saw this. I believe it’s a 4 ohm resistor. You could always leave the castrated purge valve connected in order to fool the ecu
You could just leave the purge valve in place…but with nothing but the electrical wires attached. From what other people have said though, a 4 ohm resistor does the trick. Honestly, ditching the Evap system will cure ALL the problems you mentioned
Is e vap delete ok for euro 5
just a thought do you have the fuel x or similar fitted and if so do you think that may be why the charcoal cartridge was not performing correctly.
If you constantly overfill your fuel tank excess fuel and/or vapours makes its way to your charcoal filter and ruins it.
Yes. That’s why I removed the entire Evap system, as per a previous video. And it’s not even “constantly”…..even one overfill (which nobody seems able to define) ruins it.
Why not drill a 1/8 hole in bottom canister always plug it up later
Easier just remove it all!
Where on the bike is the evap cannister located ?
Check my other videos. The one about removal of the Evap system. Details all in there
ua-cam.com/video/glQll8sbk9U/v-deo.html
What did you do to the hoses off it?
In the parts bin,followed by using them on my old Honda Pan,😁😛
I mean did you block them off or what?
@@chrispulham4779 it’s all in the videos,,,
Next Remive your air brather box and put pod filters on there 😎
Mmm….yes, that is an idea but I’ve found in the past that the engine sounds noisier through them. I did fit a Dynaflow filter after removing the snorkel and using the supplied triangular adapter. I hated the sucking sound coming from under my seat and put the OEM kit back on!
@@internetpolification oh ok, I like to hear the carbs turning air in to power 😁
Ah yes…..I do appreciate what you say…….but we oldsters like a nice, quiet, sedate ride! 😀😀😀
Pods are a BAD idea on the Interceptor as you'll lose bottom end and midrange power for a very minimal gain up on top. The ECU absolutely won't play nice with pods either without lots of tuning changes so unless you fit a PowerTronic tuner...the stock tuning is going to run poorly. If you want to do something that actually makes more power...the low restriction air filters are good and if you trim the intake stacks 2" it'll free up some horses while retaining most of the bottom end torque.
@@recoilrob324 more people are able to flash the ECU now, 🤠
the power tronic is a must have to go with exhaust and cam shaft change. 💥