Відео

“The boy done well!”

@@robertwisden7202 I suppose it might do. How long have you got left on the warranty? The relocation is easy to reverse though which could be done if a warranty claim were necessary

@@markunderwood9727 still here!

@@markoevo thanks for that. I think it illustrates how versatile these Royal Enfields are…..there’s so much scope for personal preferences about so much with the bikes. True customisation, one might say.

Not seen it!! Please send to jamesengland1000@gmail.com. My email address. Looking forward to seeing it!

@@internetpolification it won't email as it's too long apparently.

ua-cam.com/users/shortsc5N3RfK6xxY?si=rett6NRD0k_l1ngd

Just watched the clip, Chris. Looks and sounds great! Can you please summarise what the advantages are of changing camshafts, efffcts on performance etc? That would be great to know. Well done on a successful swap!! Kudos

​@@internetpolificationit's has more lift and duration, so it won't run out of puff at 6k rpm now. It keeps building right to the red line. It is going to bhp UK in Burnley in march for a full Dyno remap. With the pipes and filter id expect 55bhp at the rear wheel. About as far as I'd like to go with it, otherwise clutch upgrades start to become necessary. Very simple job, needs 8 new head bolts, a cam chain tensioner gasket and clutch case gasket. The manual states to tourqe up to 15nm then 35nm then 270 degrees rotation with an angle torque guage. I didn't use this as there's no room really, so I marked the head in 90 degree increments and the bolt and did it that way, 90 degree at a time up to 270. Sounds complicated but really isn't. I will be posting a video and review in the coming month's once mapped, so I will email you the link once I upload it.

@@sellignomod83 if you email me on jamesengland1000@gmail.com I could see

It’s by autologue design, it’s the reck 2.0!

@EKAYchannel thanks!

My advice would be….. don’t buy them. The chrome on the springs is poor and dint last more than a year before rusting. They bottom out easily and, whilst they look kinda nice, they are a cheap shocker. I would go for hagon shocks…traditional appearance with no piggy-back damper. With or without the spring shrouds. The TEC shockers are better than OEM but I wouldn’t buy them again and plan to replace the with Hagon

@@internetpolification Noted. Thanks.

@@12crepello that’s good to know. And thanks for mentioning it. I think you’ll find that links are actually allowed by UA-cam…I’ve posted links to all sorts in my videos….

I tried but nope, it deleted it. Just Google ebcbrakesdirect.

@internetpolification Nope I tried but it was deleted. Just search ebcbrakesdirect.

@internetpolification Nope, I tried but it was deleted! Just g00gel ebcbrakes direct

@internetpolification ebc brakes direct.

Interesting. I’ve sent probably 100 re-location kits to Australia over the last 12 months. I’ve just come back from the post office and sent another two kits there. Yes, agreed re the warranty but many bikes are now out of warranty/almost out of warranty. You’re right not to touch the bike if you value the warranty, of course.

I have also sent many hundreds of kits to very hot states in US too.

I’d be very interested to know your view on the above

Just curious how many RE 650 twin owners have you spoken to?.

@@lenhartley8904 About 10, strangely they were all Interceptor owners. None of them mentioned rectifier failures or moving the rectifier. About 10,000 RE twins have been sold in Australia so far. Australia is hot and dry. We do not use salt on our roads. That may explain the lack of rectifier failures.

@@EKAYchannel that’s great, Edson! A result! I’m pleased I could help out and ……‘keep it shiny side up’!

It certainly does!

@@azlong4596 yes, he did……😀

@@BlackdogADV they will look good!

Given the nature of the 4-pin connector, I’d say that a good contact was made to begin with. It would difficult for a good contact NOT to be made, unless it was a manufacturing fault on the wiring harness itself or on the wiring from the RR unit. But….you never know! It’s the only time I’ve received pix of a burned plug. Usually, when the RR fails, the charging light comes on but, in this instance, the owner said his charging light always goes out and remains out while the bike is running. I could be wrong but I think the ‘regulator’ aspect of the RR failed..and so maximum current would be going through the wires and connector. The RR has cooling fins but a block connector doesn’t….so it got hot and..vicious cycle. But, you could very well be right. The main thing is to remove the melted connector and degraded wires, graft on the replacement and use the extension kit to mount the new RR at the front of the bike where it’s clean and cool. Yes, the owner sent me a pic…connector grafted on, solder widgets made it much easier. He already has one of my extension kits and is just waiting for his new RR to arrive!

@@gary1477 Right. I think the GT not having one demonstrates that it’s not functionally necessary, eh?

@@quickkwack “Conceptor GT650” …I like it! Good that you were able to modify the bike to suit you, as well. There’s nothing worse than aches and pains due to riding position….

@@quickkwack that’s interesting…. So do you have a a black engine then?

Exactly, Len. It was mighty cramped round the ignition lock with the crossbar in the way?

👍

@@martinowl aha! That makes sense.

Ah! That makes sense. Horrible stuff! Mind you, it was handy that it snapped so easily….i thought I’d have to remove the handlebars from the central clamp, then have to remove both sets of switchgear. It took all of 60 seconds for the whole job! 😀

@@TheBlackbird46 ‘Orrible stuff!!

@@timsnaden8937 Here they are Tim. Ebay! www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354829636598?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=i8wsxtjoqxe&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=aoSTS-GYQ3W&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

@@redzed40 ok! I’ll get the Polish out tomorrow….just for you!

@@kennethheldreich6604 I agree…..!

@@johnlenart597 I’m not sure anyone actually said that the GT has a crossbar?,

@@mred7030 so much without it, eh?

@@markoevo awful stuff

@@davidrawlings3460 yes, its certainly a useful bar for attaching things to such as phone holders etc. I only had the voltmeter on it, so quite easy to relocate that

@@ruahinesrider the crossbar certainly IS heavy, you’re right!

@@chrisporter7694 yes, having done it, I do prefer it. Once the first clamp snapped, that was the point of no return anyway!

@@mrbritesideoftheroad Thanks for that! I’m never sure I’m not being a boring old twit, so your appreciation means a lot!

@@internetpolificationNot at all James… Always informative, never boring and very much appreciated !! Hope You have a Happy and safe 2025 👌

@@mrbritesideoftheroad You too!….ride safe in 2025 and keel it shiny side up!

@@kennethheldreich6604 Nice of you to say so! Not being a clever dick or anything….just trying to help out…. I just hate snipped and butchered OEM wiring harnesses after doing lots of resto-mods and trying to correct it all. This one is a good solution to an otherwise big problem. Basically back to OEM wiring but without the melted connector. The OEM location of the RR is a menace!!

@@tompas11A3n52KkX possible. But they are waterproof connectors with neoprene gaskets between the halves and also around each wire. Could be but, based on when I make the cables up, I can certainly say that they’re pretty waterproof. My guess is overheating due to burned out RR

@@martinowl he’ll be sorted fine now!

They’re on eBay. Really inexpensive and very effective! Just a normal butane lighter melts the solder and shrinks the tubing

@@kommonman.5011 Hi Peter. Yes, those soldering widgets are on eBay and come in different diameters. They’re really good. I’ll be featuring you and your bike in another video soon. It looks like a real corker!

Yes! Worst case scenario would be a wiring fire? Slightly less bad would simply be breaking down at the side of the road/ruined holiday/cancelled tour…

Thanks!

@@jf300car6 what is actually broken? It would be very useful for everyone to know. By all accounts the engines themselves are pretty much bullet-proof. And I heard they were used on a drag strip and really hammered, without any problems. Without doubt the Royal Enfields do have a number ‘issues’ and I get your point. The main ones are 1. Burning out rectifiers due to the OEM daft position 2. poor quality electrical relays 3.speedometer wires fracturing due the hard plastic used, causing a fluctuating speedo needle or no speedo at all (it’s a £4 fix to replace the cable with something better), 4. Basic suspension 5. Poor finish on metal parts like brackets, wire guides. 6. Thin chromed parts. 7. A cheap and nasty EVAP system which in my case made me just about sell the bike as it wouldn’t start reliably. All cured once the Evap was ditched 8. Needs the fuel booster plug to even out low speed running 9. Sometimes ugly welds on the OEM exhaust system which is also very heavy indeed. 10. Not the best quality OEM brake pads. 11. Uncomfortable OEM seat 12. Poor quality switchgear. On the plus side…..the bike has ABS, a six speed gearbox, stainless spokes and alloy rims, EFI, a slipper clutch, excellent fuel consumption, fun to ride (although, in your case, you’re not riding it….you have my sympathy), allegedly bulletproof engine (there are examples that have done 50,000+ trouble-free miles). Braided stainless brake hoses. And…..as you’ve commented…it’s not an expensive bike. And it is a nice, fun ride! I receive lots of emails from people all over the world and, apart from the dreaded RR problem, people have covered tens of thousands of miles without major issues. But I do get your point. I have a 25 year old Honda Pan-European ST1100 and the build quality, engineering, ABS, traction control, design, power and reliability are superior to a modern RE, love them as I do. One has to be realistic. They’re a ‘budget’ bike…..but about £750 sorts everything out permanently, so it’s still a bike for under £6,000. That’s a price point that is unachievable from a Japanese manufacturer. I suppose time will tell re the longevity of the RE’s. Please do share what’s wrong with your bike….it all adds to the collective knowledge base….. and commiserations on your bike being out of action!

@@internetpolification The engine is bullet proof? Not really. Bought my INT in summer with 350 kilometers from my local dealer. At the first tour my comrade told me that one pipe smokes heavily, the other not. Went to the dealer to inspection - no troubles found. After a longer tour to France the exhaust end was completely black on one side. The dealer checked compression: minus 2 bar at the right cylinder. They opened it and there was a crack in ths cylinder head. Then they waited for spare parts over two months. Finally after 13 weeks I got the repaired bike back. They had replaced head, cylinder and pistons. Conclusion: the plant is bad, the austrian importer is bad, the dealer is bad ... not sure if I keep the bike.

@ that’s interesting info to add to the mix. They’ve sold a lot of these bikes though, so maybe yours is the exception and not the rule, as it were? Either way, it’s an unfortunate experience, that’s for sure, and doesn’t engender confidence. I did see one example of an oil leak through the cylinder casting which was porous somehow.

@@internetpolification Maybe I had bad luck with this special bike ... nevertheless: Cracks in moulded alloy parts like cylinder heads don't fit to the image of 'well made', RE tries to provide. But that can happen. The ugliest part was the dealing with the problem: the workshop waited 4 weeks before starting to work at the bike, then waited another six weeks for the cylinder gasket and finally 1 week for another one. This shows that the aftermarket situation is as worse as it could be, especially as the twin is the main platform for Europe and USA. Such a heavy mistake at a brand new bike should provide a customer friendly reaction and not humbling around in snail speed between dealer and importer (KSR). But instead of improving the spare part situation, RE throw out 3-4 new model variants every year. If you ride a RE, enjoy it - but pray that there are no defects.

@ all very valid points!

Excellent!

@@king_praneeth_1694 there are two kit options. One is called the Daddy Cooler. The second is the Full Monty. Both allow re-location of the RR to 1. Under the oil cooler and 2. Under the lower steering yoke

@@king_praneeth_1694 you can contact me directly on jamesengland1000@gmail.com

@@internetpolification thank for the information 💙

@@richardmarshall9309 lol. A bit of fun. The owner of the bike is relieved he can get it back to normal! Nobody so far has picked up on the “a warning to the curious”….the title of a BBC ‘ghost story for christmas’………. Lol

Yes, the RE is a budget-friendly bike. It’s very open to improvement with better components and it doesn’t cost much to do. Love the bike as I do, it’s not in the same league as a Japanese, to be perfectly honest about it. But then it’s much less costly and it has been fun tweaking mine and improving it.