Most 100 owners go with the 555 Sankei for ball joints (upper and lower) as well as tie rods. They are considered the best options. Cruiser Outfitters carries them and they are relatively inexpensive. Curious how well the the Centric perform and hold up for you. Excellent videos you're doing BTW. You're doing a GREAT job covering all the maintenance issues with 100 Series. Very impressed. Keep up the excellent work!
Yup was going to say the same thing... 555 Sankei is OE, never heard of Centric being anything other than cheapo chinesium but could be wrong. Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters is awesome and have bought PLENTY of parts from him over the years (for my FJ60 and now my 100).
Sankei is NOT OEM and there was a discussion on this topic on a 4Runner forum. See here www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/137415-ball-joints-sankei-555-moog-raybestos-poor-quality-design-flaw-my-findings-2.html?s=4ebe75ff4d5961e0ba4d8bb4faa587ab
I use Centric brake pads and excellent product. I think they Centric LBJs will last and my buddy that is Toyota Master Mechanic recommends Centric LBJs and brake pads. Excellent video
I watch your videos and theya re great. I deal with Toyota trucks since 1990 and No part comes closer to the quality of Toyota. You can judge the quality of a toyota ball joint, if you look at how long a 3rd generation 4Runner (prado J90) or 1st Gen Tacoma lower ball joint lasts: OEM easy 175K miles and any other aftermarket JUST 20K miles. If you can't afford OEM (with the arm) go with 555 as it is proven to be well made by many users around the world! Still 555 won't lasts long as an OEM but much better than those Centric Chinese ball joints. I guarantee with the weight of Land Cruiser, the Centric will last no more than 12K miles. Cruiseroutfitters got genuine 555 suspension parts for the LC.
Thanks for the advice!! I did not know about the 555 until I posted this video. I’m rarely on mud and when I am, I’m usually in the classifieds lol. When these fail I will definitely give the 555 a try
With all due respect, I did replaced mine with original OEM Toyota parts since the most problems are not with the ball joint itself but with the arm breaking apart.
Sankei 555 is Japanese designed and made in Japan. Napa carries Sankei 555 and far exceeds their in-house Napa brand, MOOG and Mevotech. The problems with the other brands is long term durability. Chinese made ball joints are know Not to be tempered well when made. It s a critical suspension component that I would rather trust to either OE or Sankei 555. Your money, your choice your safety.
@@chowcares just look on Sankei 555 website for their information. They’re a solid Japanese company. Other than NAPA, I’m sure they’re other retailers in your area carrying their suspension components. It would be worth writing to Sankei customer service to find out the retailers in your area.
@@rondhole I have found aftermarket parts made in Taiwan to be high quality and match or exceed OEM quality. My new Denso radiator is made in Taiwan. I personally would not use an aftermarket balljoint as it's a critical part of the suspension. I replaced my lower ball joints with Toyota OEM for peace of mind.
@@thedetective8150 yes, that what I meant all aftermarket balljoints. Otherparts are ok like radiator, shock struts KYB, BILSTEIN, headlight bulbs, etc. But for suspension parts like control arms, tierods, bearings, very few are good. AISIN, KOYO, SKF,TIMKEN, NTN. Rotors generally are all fine as long as it is high carbon for heavy SUV or truck.
Use a press fit retaining compound in place of grease. It helps to ease assembly and prevent seizing or galling like grease, but it cures to prevent any shifting and increase stiffness.
Great job, you are helping me a lot with my LX470, could you share the link where you buy the C clamp press with the adapters for install the lower ball joint. Thanks for all your help
Hey, I noticed that you use an oil filter wrench for the seal and ball joint. Sounds like a good tool to have. What size is it? 75 mm or the 64 mm? Thanks.
Hey Chow the wire running down the control arm I'm assuming speed sensor/abs wire. Did yours slide right out from the back of the hub assembly? Unfortunately I couldn't slide my girls sensor out and eventually the sensor broke from the hub from falling. Also having a hard time fully seating the cv axle through the hub to put the snap ring in place.
Yes speed sensor. After u take of the 10mm bolt it should slide out easy. Try to clean the end of the axle and have someone pull the axle out towards the hub while you install the snap ring. If that still doesn’t work, I know there is a puller you can ghetto rig and pull out the axle with a screw. I forget where I saw it but I’m sure it’s on ih8mud
Soak with some penetrating fluid like wd40 or pb then hit the knuckle with a hammer. DO NOT HIT THE THREADS ON THE OUTTER TIE ROD. Learn from my mistakes... 😭
Hi Chow, I am also hearing squeaky noise at the front. Yesterday went under the truck and saw one of the cv axle boot is crack and leaking. I opened both side doors and and pull them then I can hear squeaking noise. What do you recommend on cv axle? Rockauto has boots for $20 vs complete left or right axle for $50. I want to replace the ball joints. Is it better to change lower and upper both? What about control arm bushings? Moog has complete assembly for less then $100 for each side. Too many choices, I am so confused. You’re advise will be highly appreciate. Again thanks for your awesome PM videos.
First of all, thanks for supporting the channel! In regards to you cv, if they are original Toyota ones I would recommend rebooting them. That being said, I’ve been using the autozone ones without a diff drop with no issues (and they have lifetime warranty). Next, the Upper ball joints would be easiest to replace by removing upper control arm first. Moog is a good aftermarket brand, I also hear 555 is a good quality one as well. Lower ball joint isn’t difficult to replace, it just requires to remove a lot to get to. It would be nice to do everything all at the same time, but it’s gonna be a long day!
Thanks Chow. I agree with you for CV. I will get the OEM boot kit. I didn’t hear any noise from there. Previous owner changed the axle at lexus dealership but I am not sure which side. I spoke with Chris at Cruiser Teq, they will have the 555 next month in stock. They also offer after market bushings. Plan is to order them and then once they are off from the truck inspect original bushings. If they are bad swap them otherwise keep it original. While everything out is it a good time to pack the wheel bearings? What kind of grease you recommend? Same time I will grease drive shaft. Thanks again for your response. Keep up the good work.
So was there any play felt in the lower ball joint when you had the wheel up in the air? How did you determine that was what was squeaking? I have a squeak that I can't seem to find....
@@chowcares Ok I will give that a try. Mine have zero play too, even when putting a crowbar under and trying to lift wheel. I will try the PBBlaster and see. Guess that would be a good indicator if it goes away. Will be doing a major front end rebuild as I just got new OE axles to rebuild (see my channel for OE hub flange to new OE outer axle assembly) and don't want to have to go all the way back in if I don't have to.
Why Centric over moog LBJ? More cheesy background music. Silence is golden! I have a GX470, care to do the front end (ball joints, shocks, UCA LCA bushings)
@@chowcares I'm liking it so far. Lots of room to work. I'm accumulating tools and parts recommendations. The only bizarre bit is that controller they parked on top of the front struts. No clearance! Not many reviews on control arm bushings.
Great video. But i dont think you had to remove the entire knuckle to do it. Might not recommend that for everyone. Just too many important bolts to get torqued
In case you have to do your other side here is a link to a video on the removal. See timestap 2:50 in the attached video. ua-cam.com/video/C-aAeXHWlho/v-deo.html
it is a nice job you did , but I would replace the entire upper and lower arm control respectively with OEM all 4 only $1,300 from the TOYOTA it will last you for another 20 years
Just bought Sankei 555 for $170 after tax on ebay. 2 upper and 2 lower. It's a pain in the ass to do it though. Watching the video makes it look easy but you're going to spend hours working on it.
Really G R O O V Y music for it hits the spot of just how important the fucking ball joints are.. Mine broke the other day while driving and I don't feel safe anymore riding in my car. I've been in shock and totally freaked out about the damage it did to me and my car. It was horrendously scary
Sorry to hear, hope you are ok. Sometimes people don’t realize ball joints are the only thing that holds your wheel upright AND that it’s a wearable item.
no such luxury on a 200.....pressing them out is like trying to get a bowling ball through a garden hose, plus the lower control arms bolts usually sieze and you have to cut the off with a sawz-all which adds to the expense and the time.
There is NO GOOD AFTERMARKET Balljoint. Toyota balljoint easily 10x better than any aftermarket. The old one is actually still good. People always thought the new Toyota ball joint is supposed to be stiff but they actually move pretty freely and easily and that's why it last really long. Balljoint is to give us a good joint to move like ball without any play or knocking. That's what all aftermarket balljoint fail, yes they are stiff but clunk and knock only about 30k miles instead of original Toyota 300k miles.
@@chowcares Toyota do sell ball joints for its trucks with double wishbone suspension that go bad occasionally. For cars, toyota also sell it in case of accident damage. Only the rubber bushings in control arms, toyota do not sell it individually.
@@chowcares that's better, it is more expensive but your rubber bushings need replacement anyway to prevent the new balljoints go bad faster. I am afraid you make your own problems by replacing really fine balljoints with inferior aftermarket balljoint. Nothing beats Toyota balljoint, literally it is 10x more durable than any aftermarket. Toyota balljoints have composite polymer that make it lasts really long and always smooth and easy to move, no stiffness and wear like metal to metal balljoints. It is Land cruiser, you can survive in warzone for years without spare parts
@@rondhole if I've been driving for say 1200 miles and the ball joint squeaking has gotten louder and louder, what's my chances of the whole wheel coming off and getting seriously injured? How fast do I need to get this thing changed?
Most 100 owners go with the 555 Sankei for ball joints (upper and lower) as well as tie rods. They are considered the best options. Cruiser Outfitters carries them and they are relatively inexpensive. Curious how well the the Centric perform and hold up for you. Excellent videos you're doing BTW. You're doing a GREAT job covering all the maintenance issues with 100 Series. Very impressed. Keep up the excellent work!
Yup was going to say the same thing... 555 Sankei is OE, never heard of Centric being anything other than cheapo chinesium but could be wrong. Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters is awesome and have bought PLENTY of parts from him over the years (for my FJ60 and now my 100).
So far so good, let’s see how long they’ll last!
Sankei is NOT OEM and there was a discussion on this topic on a 4Runner forum.
See here www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/137415-ball-joints-sankei-555-moog-raybestos-poor-quality-design-flaw-my-findings-2.html?s=4ebe75ff4d5961e0ba4d8bb4faa587ab
I use Centric brake pads and excellent product. I think they Centric LBJs will last and my buddy that is Toyota Master Mechanic recommends Centric LBJs and brake pads. Excellent video
What do you like for control arm bushings?
Would you please provide a link to the ball joint press/removal kit you used, thanks
You’re first finally do lower ball joints on 100 series you’re best bro
You’re welcome! It really wasn’t too bad, just a lot of things to take off to get to it. Have fun!!
Hey man love the video u have the old man emu shock number or liftkit set for front and back?
My next project after I get the rack and pinion in. I got the upper and lower ball joints from sankie 555.
From all the comments, it seems like 555 is the way to go
Good job. Gonna need to do this on my gx460.
I watch your videos and theya re great. I deal with Toyota trucks since 1990 and No part comes closer to the quality of Toyota. You can judge the quality of a toyota ball joint, if you look at how long a 3rd generation 4Runner (prado J90) or 1st Gen Tacoma lower ball joint lasts: OEM easy 175K miles and any other aftermarket JUST 20K miles.
If you can't afford OEM (with the arm) go with 555 as it is proven to be well made by many users around the world! Still 555 won't lasts long as an OEM but much better than those Centric Chinese ball joints. I guarantee with the weight of Land Cruiser, the Centric will last no more than 12K miles. Cruiseroutfitters got genuine 555 suspension parts for the LC.
Thanks for the advice!! I did not know about the 555 until I posted this video. I’m rarely on mud and when I am, I’m usually in the classifieds lol. When these fail I will definitely give the 555 a try
With all due respect, I did replaced mine with original OEM Toyota parts since the most problems are not with the ball joint itself but with the arm breaking apart.
Sankei 555 is Japanese designed and made in Japan. Napa carries Sankei 555 and far exceeds their in-house Napa brand, MOOG and Mevotech. The problems with the other brands is long term durability. Chinese made ball joints are know Not to be tempered well when made. It s a critical suspension component that I would rather trust to either OE or Sankei 555. Your money, your choice your safety.
I hear a lot of good things about the 555, I think immma give them a shot next
@@chowcares just look on Sankei 555 website for their information. They’re a solid Japanese company. Other than NAPA, I’m sure they’re other retailers in your area carrying their suspension components. It would be worth writing to Sankei customer service to find out the retailers in your area.
Ok I got you Roger that did you mention to take c clamp off cv joint so take dust cap off
Centric is an excellent aftermarket brand with excellent quality. I use Centric brake pads for my Tacoma as recommended by a Toyota Master Mechanic.
Not for balljoint, all aftermarket are bad
@@rondhole I have found aftermarket parts made in Taiwan to be high quality and match or exceed OEM quality. My new Denso radiator is made in Taiwan. I personally would not use an aftermarket balljoint as it's a critical part of the suspension. I replaced my lower ball joints with Toyota OEM for peace of mind.
@@thedetective8150 yes, that what I meant all aftermarket balljoints. Otherparts are ok like radiator, shock struts KYB, BILSTEIN, headlight bulbs, etc. But for suspension parts like control arms, tierods, bearings, very few are good. AISIN, KOYO, SKF,TIMKEN, NTN. Rotors generally are all fine as long as it is high carbon for heavy SUV or truck.
Use a press fit retaining compound in place of grease. It helps to ease assembly and prevent seizing or galling like grease, but it cures to prevent any shifting and increase stiffness.
So yea I did see take dust. Cap off but you're alought fater than me so had to pay close attention so fast very fast mcnic thank u
Great job, you are helping me a lot with my LX470, could you share the link where you buy the C clamp press with the adapters for install the lower ball joint. Thanks for all your help
It was a rental tool from oreilys
Very nice your special tool
Hey, I noticed that you use an oil filter wrench for the seal and ball joint. Sounds like a good tool to have. What size is it? 75 mm or the 64 mm? Thanks.
i forget exactly, but its the smaller one that fits the prius, ct200, and tercel. basically all the 4 cylinder toyota lol.
Hey Chow the wire running down the control arm I'm assuming speed sensor/abs wire. Did yours slide right out from the back of the hub assembly? Unfortunately I couldn't slide my girls sensor out and eventually the sensor broke from the hub from falling. Also having a hard time fully seating the cv axle through the hub to put the snap ring in place.
Yes speed sensor. After u take of the 10mm bolt it should slide out easy. Try to clean the end of the axle and have someone pull the axle out towards the hub while you install the snap ring. If that still doesn’t work, I know there is a puller you can ghetto rig and pull out the axle with a screw. I forget where I saw it but I’m sure it’s on ih8mud
Thanks Chow I appreciate the feedback
What a great video man
I got a stuborn lower ball joint with knuckle, where you put the jack when you separate them? under the bolt of ball joint?
Under the control arm. That way when the knuckle has room to drop
How are these holding up today? Any cracks on the boot?
I cant get the tie rod off.. any tips? took that same bolt off but it so stuck on there. same with hub on lower balll joint bolt. both are super stuck
Soak with some penetrating fluid like wd40 or pb then hit the knuckle with a hammer. DO NOT HIT THE THREADS ON THE OUTTER TIE ROD. Learn from my mistakes... 😭
Hi Chow, I am also hearing squeaky noise at the front. Yesterday went under the truck and saw one of the cv axle boot is crack and leaking. I opened both side doors and and pull them then I can hear squeaking noise.
What do you recommend on cv axle? Rockauto has boots for $20 vs complete left or right axle for $50.
I want to replace the ball joints. Is it better to change lower and upper both?
What about control arm bushings?
Moog has complete assembly for less then $100 for each side. Too many choices, I am so confused. You’re advise will be highly appreciate.
Again thanks for your awesome PM videos.
First of all, thanks for supporting the channel! In regards to you cv, if they are original Toyota ones I would recommend rebooting them. That being said, I’ve been using the autozone ones without a diff drop with no issues (and they have lifetime warranty). Next, the Upper ball joints would be easiest to replace by removing upper control arm first. Moog is a good aftermarket brand, I also hear 555 is a good quality one as well. Lower ball joint isn’t difficult to replace, it just requires to remove a lot to get to. It would be nice to do everything all at the same time, but it’s gonna be a long day!
Thanks Chow. I agree with you for CV. I will get the OEM boot kit. I didn’t hear any noise from there. Previous owner changed the axle at lexus dealership but I am not sure which side.
I spoke with Chris at Cruiser Teq, they will have the 555 next month in stock. They also offer after market bushings. Plan is to order them and then once they are off from the truck inspect original bushings. If they are bad swap them otherwise keep it original.
While everything out is it a good time to pack the wheel bearings? What kind of grease you recommend?
Same time I will grease drive shaft.
Thanks again for your response. Keep up the good work.
What ball joint removal kit you using?.thanks you in advance.
A rented one from oreilys
@@chowcares,a ok perfec.
chowcares is it possible to buy it in europe?
Was that "load runner" at 10:13? 😂 I'm definitely too old...some of you of school will get it.👍🏾 Thanks for all the infos.
So was there any play felt in the lower ball joint when you had the wheel up in the air? How did you determine that was what was squeaking? I have a squeak that I can't seem to find....
No play, the squeak went away when I sprayed some pb blaster on it. It’s hard to get the pb in, but if u crank the wheel all the way, should be ok
@@chowcares Ok I will give that a try. Mine have zero play too, even when putting a crowbar under and trying to lift wheel. I will try the PBBlaster and see. Guess that would be a good indicator if it goes away.
Will be doing a major front end rebuild as I just got new OE axles to rebuild (see my channel for OE hub flange to new OE outer axle assembly) and don't want to have to go all the way back in if I don't have to.
Yea that would be the best time! Lmk how it goes!!
I have had squeaks after wading, turned out to be the bushes on the lower A arm.
Good content. Keep them coming. What kind of wheel spacers are you using? Another idea for content: power washing and wire brushing the underneath.
Running a 1.25” spacer all around.
Why Centric over moog LBJ? More cheesy background music. Silence is golden! I have a GX470, care to do the front end (ball joints, shocks, UCA LCA bushings)
No particular reason, probably do a review vid on them soon. GX has a cool front setup? Should be relatively easy no?
@@chowcares I'm liking it so far. Lots of room to work. I'm accumulating tools and parts recommendations. The only bizarre bit is that controller they parked on top of the front struts. No clearance! Not many reviews on control arm bushings.
Does this ball joint fits into a 2002 tundra?
I don’t think so, the tundra ones are bolted on, much easier to replace
O thanks for info. Where u from by the way, I'm in florida.
iwalker Dad np, from SoCal
Hi. I’m following your videos. They are awesome. Please. What kind of spacers do you using? Is that ones from Spacetrax? Thanks
Welp. I guess I’m hyper unsafe as my ball joins have 307k.
Thanks for the video, I’m going to be able to get them in this week.
Great video. But i dont think you had to remove the entire knuckle to do it. Might not recommend that for everyone. Just too many important bolts to get torqued
In case you have to do your other side here is a link to a video on the removal. See timestap 2:50 in the attached video. ua-cam.com/video/C-aAeXHWlho/v-deo.html
Oh! You use spacers? What kind of spacer are they? What width? 😍😍😍
1.25”
chowcares looks awesome! Thanks for the information! Keep up the great work!
it is a nice job you did , but I would replace the entire upper and lower arm control respectively with OEM all 4 only $1,300 from the TOYOTA it will last you for another 20 years
Just bought Sankei 555 for $170 after tax on ebay. 2 upper and 2 lower. It's a pain in the ass to do it though. Watching the video makes it look easy but you're going to spend hours working on it.
@@seahawksforever9504 you got the Sankei ball join , how about the bushings ? I got Sankei tie rods link for R&P I say a quality product!
I work on my 2006 Sequoia and its parts are puny compare to the LC.
Really G R O O V Y music for it hits the spot of just how important the fucking ball joints are.. Mine broke the other day while driving and I don't feel safe anymore riding in my car. I've been in shock and totally freaked out about the damage it did to me and my car. It was horrendously scary
Sorry to hear, hope you are ok. Sometimes people don’t realize ball joints are the only thing that holds your wheel upright AND that it’s a wearable item.
I thought for sure it was going to crush that oil filter wrench like an aluminum can!
I thought so too, or at least bend a bit lol
no such luxury on a 200.....pressing them out is like trying to get a bowling ball through a garden hose, plus the lower control arms bolts usually sieze and you have to cut the off with a sawz-all which adds to the expense and the time.
Theres no way I would use anything other than OEM LBJ
Nice series 5’s. I have one and an lx470 too. Bout to have a crack at this ball joint n see if I can get it back in without the special tool…
Bloke pros say use toyota factory part yank
There is NO GOOD AFTERMARKET Balljoint. Toyota balljoint easily 10x better than any aftermarket. The old one is actually still good. People always thought the new Toyota ball joint is supposed to be stiff but they actually move pretty freely and easily and that's why it last really long. Balljoint is to give us a good joint to move like ball without any play or knocking. That's what all aftermarket balljoint fail, yes they are stiff but clunk and knock only about 30k miles instead of original Toyota 300k miles.
I agree, too bad Toyota doesn’t sell the ball joint by itself.
@@chowcares Toyota do sell ball joints for its trucks with double wishbone suspension that go bad occasionally. For cars, toyota also sell it in case of accident damage. Only the rubber bushings in control arms, toyota do not sell it individually.
@@rondhole for land cruisers, the ball joint only comes with the owner control arm 😔
@@chowcares that's better, it is more expensive but your rubber bushings need replacement anyway to prevent the new balljoints go bad faster. I am afraid you make your own problems by replacing really fine balljoints with inferior aftermarket balljoint. Nothing beats Toyota balljoint, literally it is 10x more durable than any aftermarket. Toyota balljoints have composite polymer that make it lasts really long and always smooth and easy to move, no stiffness and wear like metal to metal balljoints. It is Land cruiser, you can survive in warzone for years without spare parts
@@rondhole if I've been driving for say 1200 miles and the ball joint squeaking has gotten louder and louder, what's my chances of the whole wheel coming off and getting seriously injured? How fast do I need to get this thing changed?