Guide to Eliminate White Spot - Tank Transfer Method
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- Опубліковано 1 лип 2021
- In this long overdue video I walk you through the Tank Transfer Method for treatment of Cryptocaryon Irritans, Ich, or Whitespot!
Its super simple and easy to do with stuff you likely already have lying around
For more information
humble.fish/tank-transfer-met... - Домашні улюбленці та дикі тварини
A great answer to a question that's been on my mind for a while. Cheers 👍
I wish I knew this when I had ich out break. Thank you for the knowledge Marcus.
Hi Marcus .
Thank you so much ,it was very informative !
Glad it was helpful!
You make great videos, deserve to blow up more.
Would you do some tank updates like close ups too? Sump, your tank, corals with your voice over in the background? Such a stunning tank
Thanks so much. I’ll Absolutely do a tank tour soon. I’ll have one coming up soon!
Quality video and content, you have just saved a lot of tanks.. bravo 👌🙌🙌🤯
thank you! Hope it encourages more people to TTM their fish!
Great video 👍👍
thanks!
Thank you for the presentation, but what time would be preferable. to take turns transferring? morning or evening or it doesn't matter? Thank you very much and greetings from Greece!!!
But good info brother. It works but I want less transfer stress for the fish.. store to tank or mail to tank
Hi can you explain best way to clean the equipment. What did you do to sterilise it all. Can we use the tablets that sterilise baby bottles? Also feeding. Do you only feed on the last day of each transfer? 😊
Great video mate! I understand the logic behind this method but I feel like if you have a quarantine tank set up it could just be easier to run copper treatment. Do you feel like this method is easier on the fish? I know that copper can be quite stressful
Scratch that... I'm now 5 mins in and you are explaining why you use this method 🤦🏻♂️
I have done copper with limited success (not a 100% survival rate). It is definitely harder on the fish. To me copper is more like chemotherapy for fish and should only be used in the absence of any better options.
Hi Marcus a few questions:
1) Do you have anything in that HOB filter or is it empty besides the pump (ie purely for flow)?
2) Do you do any freshwater dips between transfers?
Yes the Hob filter has some carbon cartridge thing that it came with. But honestly it’s not needed main purpose is for flow. I personally don’t do freshwater dips, because the fish I buy from my LFS have been through a hypo salinity treatment already. You can however do it between TTM transfers if you want to target something freshwater dips are know to help with.
Hi, just a curious question. I've not got a tank or anything yet, but obviously researching well in advance, I am going for a 5ft waterbox when times comes, and I really want a blue tang, which seem to be ich magnets so want to do this method.
However I'm worried about the stress on blue tangs although I see you have one too, which survived the 'stress' also as for cycling the new tanks as not required, surely if your main tank is disease free (because all of your inhabitants have been quarantined,) surely you can fill your quaratine tanks directly from display tank, top up display tank with freshly made marine water, and once done after 3 days pour it down drain and let it dry out etc? Is that plausible? At least your not having to worry about cycled water and the parameters are correct.
Hey there. If you are 100% sure your display tank is disease free, use you can use that as the source water for your quarantine tanks. Although the last thing you said regarding "cycled water" is wrong. Water does not cycle, its the surface area of the tank itself that cycles, aka rock, sand and bio media. So using water from a display tank for your quarantine system, will not cycle that system. So the same advice applies as per my video in that you will need to use something like Seachem Prime to keep ammonia in check in your TTM tanks if you are quarantining a lot of fish.
Awesome video mate! I lost all my fish the first time I set up a reef tank many years ago. Which led me to quitting. Now I have focused on corals but am soon setting up a larger tank again and will be using this method to avoid the dreaded white spot. I think it is easily the most common parasite and with a bit of work not too hard to keep out of our tanks.
Any advise of doing multiple tangs? Better to do one fish at a time or ok to do different species in a large enough container?
I would TTM all the tangs at once, just use suitably large plastic tubs to do it. The reason being that introducing all tangs to the tank at the same time is the best way to help avoid territorial aggression.
@@ReefNerd how many litres of tub per tang would you suggest?
@@richardportelli1983 Id estimate around 30L per tang, ammonia wont be an issue if you use a bit of prime morning and night. I would make sure there is a suitable hiding "thing" for each tang, large PVC pipe sections etc...
The TTM I just did was 30L with 1 tang and 1 wrasse. In the past iv done 2 clowns and 2 (small) tangs in the same 30L tubs no problem. Just give them hiding spots and dose prime and they should be fine.
how to keep the quarantine tank clear and avoid bloom water ? i do water change every 3 days to keep ammonia low, but every time i do water change the water is kind of dirty(bloom). i see tiny little piece. but as i transfer the water to bucket it looks clean.
Great video. Do you run Lower salinity.. is so what figures please. Do the fish feed ok during this time? Thanx for your experience. How do you ensure that your corals are white spot free please
I don’t run lower salinity. I just run normal 1.024-1.025sg. I feed the fish heavily during TTM. This is important to keep them healthy and prepare them for introduction to your display where they will need to compete with your other established fish
For corals the only way is to quarantine them in a seperate fish less system for long enough for the cyst form of white spot to starve. I personally do not do this. It represents a small risk, one that I accept. I do know people who quarantine coral and encourage it wholeheartedly if you can! Though I’m not speaking from my personal practices in that regard.
What about the net? You use the net and transfer the same water molecules that could be carrying anything negative
yes it represents a small risk (same as the fish slime and skin...) but the risk is extremely small AND thats why TTM has a built in extra transfer as redundancy. Still nothing is 100%... however TTM is as good and close as its gets to it.
Hi Marcus, can you please tell me, do you use the Same filter and media between quarantine tanks? Steve 🇬🇧
No you do not. You do not transfer anything from one quarantine tank to the next except the fish.
@@ReefNerd cool, thank you for that info, love your channel by the way, I picticulaly found the information about the Aquaforest products use full, cheers
Hi Marcus, did you put the fresh saltwater when you do the ttm? Or do I need to use the water from display Tank which content bacteria?
I use water from my display, not because it contains bacteria though, I use it so that I can use the fresh saltwater that I mix as an excuse for a mini water-change for the tank. No sense using fresh saltwater for TTM and then having to throw it down the sink afterwards.
@@ReefNerd thanks for the video. Most say never use display tank and use only fresh water. To avoid contamination and also reduces the chance of extra waste going into the water that might cause a spike in ammonia
Hey Marcus, awesome video. But I think you made a mistake, in my understanding of TTM you must transfer the fish before 72 hours not after. Also its important to make sure the salinity and temperature in the next tank match exactly to eliminate the need for acclimation. Can I post links here or mention forums?
Isn’t that what I said? I might have misspoken but yes you are correct. You perform the transfer on or just prior to the 72 hour point. And yes of course match salinity and temp. I do this by using water from my display (which is ich free) for TTM - of course can only do this is display is ich free.
What do you recommend to get ich out of my display tank. Everything I’ve tried hasn’t worked it’s had ich in it for 12 months now and I just can’t seem to clear it up I think I’ve tired everything.
The tank is 1700litres 8 ft long 3 foot wide
I have 15 tangs. 13 clowns. And 5 wrasses in it.
I was using poly lab medic. But after spending 600 on that and no results I stopped using it atm if I see a fish that gets heavy with ich. I tank transfer them for 14 days then put them back. I just don’t know what to do
Look I’m sorry to say there is nothing that will work except running the tank fallow (fishless) for 72+ days. Catch all fish, ttm them. And then keep them in a fresh quarantine tank for the duration. You will need it to be cycled to run for that length of time. Medic and every other off the shelf reefsafe fish parasite treatment is not going to cure ich or eradicate it from your display. Fallow is the only way.
If a fish had ick and went away/cured. And if someone purchased that fish a few months later, do you think it still has ick?
Good questions. It’s hard to answer with certainty. And for that reason I encourage doing TTM regardless of what the previous owner tells you or what you can visually observe on the fish. Reasons being ich can hide in fish gills and exhibit no visible symptoms. And unless the system they were in when it had ich was fallowed for months, Ich will still be present even if you can’t see any white spots.
Just cause fish dont show signs of ich doesnt mean it goes away, the ich will always be in your tank if you dont go fallow fod 76 days and cure your fish in a separate tank/container.
@@marcelrodriguez2067 so wouldn't that mean, it is really risky getting s coral from anyone's tank, or shop as they could be coming from a tank that had ich at some point etc
@@rudra7615 that is correct, i have infact gotten ich from corals that i hVe bought and put directly on my DT, the tomont stage of ich attaches to the frag plug of the corals, tbey cannot attach to the coral itself though. I only order corals from places that i know have clean systems, tsa,tck,wwc etc.
@@marcelrodriguez2067 god damn, would dipping work then? It has to be quarentee?
hi, still waiting for a video on the gyre programing, please also if you cud share your program.
Coming soon! I actually just added another xf230 to the tank and I’m trying to source 1 more. So it’s still a work in progress
Where did you get the Grey tank you used.
I think I got it from Bunnings
How do disinfectant the used tank?
let it dry 100%. Or if in a rush, bleach then rinse very very well
The fact that we're calling ich "white spots" gives this video a lot of credibility.
I’m not sure if you mean this as a dig or not. But this video is aimed at novice reefers and people who have never quarantine fish before. The colloquial name for cryptocarion irritants is “ich” or “white spot” and for many reefers that all they know it as. Labelling the video as “cryptocarion irritants” will reach less people and mean nothing to a large number of reefers who don’t care about scientific names.
Im too lazy to be doing tank transfer i jist use copper and call it a day lol