SnapOn sell replacement feeler blades for their "Go, No-Go" feeler blade set. I have 3 complete set from 25-30+ years ago, but sure they are costly now. The ground stepped lip is 0.001" under and the shank is 0.001" over. So, if you're desired setting is 0.006", the blade will read 0.005"-0.007" making the stop (Ground Step) a 0.006" that stops at this setting. They can be ordered online and paired on a key ring as needed. Nice information! DK, ASE master tech since 78, retired. Have a good 2022 & beyond.
@@ellisgarage1850 I don't know for sure anymore in this crazy a%#s world if you have order them off the truck or online. I wore out several 0.008" and 0.010" doing a standard cold (Room Temp) valve adjust as I worked at the Isuzu half of the Buick-Isuzu dealer. I had over 3,000 customers that had been in twice during a 3 year time frame. We went thru a bad, buy sell situation with another Buick dealer that threw things and hollered a lot. Just like my step dad on the farm after 7 beers! Now, they don't even like you on the truck if you don't work at the dealer they stopped at, even though I work with 2 techs and the parts manager for 16 years. Plus, I was Raytheon contract labor for ACDelco. I have 3 sets and today probably cost as much as truck tires, but I marked with auto paint tape, wrote the size and INT / EXH and gave them to my son. I ain't going to be around forever to adjust his poly-locked 1.52:1 rockers and showed him. Tried to talk him to hydraulic rollers but his O'Riellys buddy had him convinced he would have to drive at 5-6k all day! Have a good one in the crazy times. DK.
Sorry, can't stop myself, what you were touching was the rocker arms, not the lifters. Are you sure, .004" that's pretty thin. Doesn't allow much room for expansion..024" ok, but .004" You are going to have valves hanging open, or you are going to ding a piston or eight.
It will be important to note that Ellis is working with a mechanical camsahft..... not a hydraulic cam. For those doing similar, I would be refering to the camshaft spec sheet, and would use a degree wheel so that I could index the crankshaft as per the manufacturer's specs during this critical adjustment. We need to make sure that each cam follower is at the bottom of BASE circle during the adjustment. A word to the wise. DO NOT use the center crankshaft bolt to rotate the engine with. The torque setting for this bolt is approx 60 ft lb. If you snap this bolt off, or if the threads were to become damaged, you will be pulling the engine out, and taking it in for profession bolt fragment extraction, or worse.
It's been almost a year since I made this video. But, if I recall correctly, I did specify that I was working with a solid lift camshaft. Also, there is a part in the video where I show an illustration of the base circle of the cam. As far as using the crank to turn the motor, I have done it for years with no issues. As long as plugs are removed, no harm is done.
@@ellisgarage1850 Yes, you did specify solid cam followers (mechanical camshaft), and yes, you did show an image demonstrating base circle (aka heel). As for the center crankshaft bolt..... it's your engine, and your call! I would remind any onlookers that if that bolt was to snap off, you will be kicking yourself in the behind. There is a tool for this that eliminates the use of the center bolt.
SnapOn sell replacement feeler blades for their "Go, No-Go" feeler blade set. I have 3 complete set from 25-30+ years ago, but sure they are costly now. The ground stepped lip is 0.001" under and the shank is 0.001" over. So, if you're desired setting is 0.006", the blade will read 0.005"-0.007" making the stop (Ground Step) a 0.006" that stops at this setting. They can be ordered online and paired on a key ring as needed. Nice information!
DK, ASE master tech since 78, retired.
Have a good 2022 & beyond.
I was unaware. Thanks
@@ellisgarage1850 I don't know for sure anymore in this crazy a%#s world if you have order them off the truck or online. I wore out several 0.008" and 0.010" doing a standard cold (Room Temp) valve adjust as I worked at the Isuzu half of the Buick-Isuzu dealer. I had over 3,000 customers that had been in twice during a 3 year time frame. We went thru a bad, buy sell situation with another Buick dealer that threw things and hollered a lot. Just like my step dad on the farm after 7 beers! Now, they don't even like you on the truck if you don't work at the dealer they stopped at, even though I work with 2 techs and the parts manager for 16 years. Plus, I was Raytheon contract labor for ACDelco. I have 3 sets and today probably cost as much as truck tires, but I marked with auto paint tape, wrote the size and INT / EXH and gave them to my son. I ain't going to be around forever to adjust his poly-locked 1.52:1 rockers and showed him. Tried to talk him to hydraulic rollers but his O'Riellys buddy had him convinced he would have to drive at 5-6k all day! Have a good one in the crazy times. DK.
Sounds like you know your stuff. I enjoy learning all I can. Thanks for your comment sir.
Thanks for the video saved me money I love that
Glad to be able to help!
Oh yeah brother!
Good stuff !!
Should be minus .006 cold lash with Aluminum heads and iron block.
If you have $8,000 in the engine, then spend $12 for a replacement SnapOn (Go, No-Go) feeler blades? I am confused.
DK,, ASE Master Tech since 78
Sorry, can't stop myself, what you were touching was the rocker arms, not the lifters. Are you sure, .004" that's pretty thin. Doesn't allow much room for expansion..024" ok, but .004" You are going to have valves hanging open, or you are going to ding a piston or eight.
Drive the truck all the time and not a problem yet
Should be minus .006 cold lash with Aluminum heads and iron block.
It will be important to note that Ellis is working with a mechanical camsahft..... not a hydraulic cam.
For those doing similar, I would be refering to the camshaft spec sheet, and would use a degree wheel so that I could index the crankshaft as per the manufacturer's specs during this critical adjustment.
We need to make sure that each cam follower is at the bottom of BASE circle during the adjustment.
A word to the wise. DO NOT use the center crankshaft bolt to rotate the engine with.
The torque setting for this bolt is approx 60 ft lb.
If you snap this bolt off, or if the threads were to become damaged, you will be pulling the engine out, and taking it in for profession bolt fragment extraction, or worse.
It's been almost a year since I made this video. But, if I recall correctly, I did specify that I was working with a solid lift camshaft. Also, there is a part in the video where I show an illustration of the base circle of the cam. As far as using the crank to turn the motor, I have done it for years with no issues. As long as plugs are removed, no harm is done.
@@ellisgarage1850 Yes, you did specify solid cam followers (mechanical camshaft), and yes, you did show an image demonstrating base circle (aka heel).
As for the center crankshaft bolt..... it's your engine, and your call!
I would remind any onlookers that if that bolt was to snap off, you will be kicking yourself in the behind.
There is a tool for this that eliminates the use of the center bolt.
@markemery49 who crawls under the car to turn the engine by the flywheel/ flexplate.