An 1890's Skirt in Silk // The Mandragora Gown (pt. 1)
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- Опубліковано 30 лип 2024
- Not to be trendy or whatever, but I'm diving into the 1890's I guess...the hipster teen in me is annoyed at myself. But this silk just screamed out about wanting to be giant sleeves, and who am I to deny destiny? Today we begin with my mood boards and ideas, and finish the skirt, but it's gonna be a lot of bodice beading from here!
Truly Victorian Patterns: trulyvictorian.info/index.php...
Silk Baron: www.silkbaron.com/default.asp
General Bead: www.etsy.com/shop/GeneralBead
Images:
Fashion Plate 1896: czasemancypantek.pl/w-salonie...
Photograph 1893, BURGESS STUDIO PORTRAIT, 1890 (P0097) : collections.shsmo.org/manuscr...
Fashion Plate 1896, Plate 011 : libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/dig...
Met Fashion Plate Collections: www.metmuseum.org/art/librari...
Red Velvet Worth Gown, MET 1993-95 : www.metmuseum.org/art/collect...
Copper Jacquard Bodice, mid 1890's, John Bright Collection: www.thejohnbrightcollection.c...
Crimson Peak Set Design : www.tomsprojects.net/feature-f...
Images of Forest floor:
Forestwander.com via Wiki commons commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...
Forest Floor, Justin Meissen from St Paul, United States : commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...
Moth Images:
Jacques Le Moyne de Morgues. Strawberry and Emperor Moth: commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...
Saturnia pavonia (Saturniidae) (Emperor Moth) - (female imago), Vivi des Bois, Belgium : commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...
68.001 BF1643 Emperor Moth, Saturnia pavonia, male, Patrick Clement from West Midlands, England : commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...
Images in collage found on Pinterest here: / 1890s-1910s
Music and Sound Effects from Epidemic Sound.
Need to make a block pattern? There are many options, and I talk about several in this playlist! : • Making a Bodice Block ...
Where I get my pattern drafting paper: atlaslevy.com/Paper_c_13.html (not sponsored)
More from me?
Want to help me continue making more videos? Listen to me ramble on in a monthly podcast? Watch an additional project video each month? Peruse my Patreon here: / theclosethistorian
Blog: theclosethistorian.blogspot.com/
Instagram: / theclosethistorian
Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/shop/TheClosetHi...
Pinterest: / bmesposito
Tumblr: / theclosethistorian
Beauty Instagram: / thehistoriansvanity
Beauty Channel: / thehistoriansvanity
But wait there's more! A PO BOX finally wahoo!
First, a disclaimer: So many of you have kindly offered to send me things, including vintage items you may have inherited, and I am so honored you would think of me and of course I do adore vintage treasures, however, unfortunately I only have so much storage space currently! So there is a chance that if something just wont work for me, or doesn't fit me etc, that I may not be able to keep all of your lovely things. Please only send things if you are okay with the possibility that I may donate items I just cannot keep. If you would prefer I put things that I can't keep into the TCH Etsy shop to help raise funds for me and the channel, please specify this in a note or letter in your parcel. Thank you so much!
Bianca Esposito
PO Box 632177
Highlands Ranch, CO 80163
Thank you for watching! - Навчання та стиль
EXCITING! these multi part sewing series you've done are like Netflix series at this stage to me haha
Thank you Ryan!
Granny Tip, when you are sewing a large piece like that, ROLL UP everything to the left of the needle so the weight of it does Not Pull on your sewing. Also gives you something to hole onto While you are trying to move the material through the machine. :) Hope that helps.
This is indeed an excellent idea!
I used to tint paint. If I had time and a curious customer, or bored kids, I’d pull out my card with all 14 tint colours on it. I’d tell them how many tints went into their colour, (up to 5) and let them guess.
Colours like this, and many of the muted greens always surprised people. How can there be no green in this?!
Straw and black make mossy green.
Another cool trick is that there isn’t a single blue paint colour that doesn’t contain a tiny bit of red or magenta. Not a single one. They turn out kinda see through without.
what an utterly interesting piece of information… Thank you for telling us. 😊
I absolutely adore this intro. And have I mentioned how much I love that your historic gowns are bug themed??? An inspiration is what you are. If I had the time, money, and executive function to do this I would but at least I can live vicariously through your videos.
Thank you! 🦋🕷🐝
I love that her style is "vintage but make it look poisonous"
A beautiful skirt. I love the color! FYI- If you place a card table at the left end of your sewing table, it takes some of the weight of the fabric off your shoulders and arms and also makes it easier to sew seams on such a large project. I have learned this as I have helped my mom make quilts for all the great-grandchildren. Just thought I would let you know for your next big project.
I have had that problem in the past making cloaks. Thank you for this information.🦉🐱
A chair can work too if you don't have the space for a table. I don't know if I would try it with a full quilt, but I have used it with around 4 yards of fleece. If it is much bigger I take over the whole kitchen table so I can spread my fabric every where.
I'm a floor goblin, but I recognize that most people sew on tables :) great idea!
Thank you Melody! Ah yes this would be good! I can't do it with how my room is currently configured, but in the future perhaps!
Mixed up in a Guillermo Del Toro blender is the most me aesthetic I've ever heard. "Chef's kiss!!!"
Can't wait for Nightmare Alley!!! 🤩
Your makeup and hair looks amazing here! You're use of bright colours has inspired me because you always look sort of 'Spooky' but not just all black and greys
Thank you Emily! I try to do jewel toned goth really 😅✨
Divine! I’m so excited to see the continuation of this series. Your gowns are always enviable.
Thank you Nicole!
I am here for the 'found under a log, but glam' vibe!!
Love the colour of the silk! It’s just mesmerising! Because you used silk, I would strongly recommend placing that under ruffle at least at the back to protect the fabric as you walk around. It was commonly done as skirts are expensive to make & the ruffle can easily be removed for cleaning or replacing.
Thank you! If I ever get to wear this skirt out and about I shall add a dust ruffle for sure!
Forget about needing a haircut, your choppy bangs are sublime! As is this amazing shot silk. Looking forward to this beautiful gown coming to fruition.
Thank you Gwen!
The intro music for your costuming videos is like a direct injection of serotonin for me at this point lol the skirt came out beautiful, so excited to see how the project goes!
Thank you Gina! ❤😂
Your cinematography is wonderful! I am in love with this silk. The skirt is lovely and I can’t wait to see the rest of the project. Your embellishment is always divine.
Thank you! 💚
Hauling yards of fabric through a machine for curtains was how I learned to sew.
I love the swish of the skirt. Yes, this green is enthralling, like the scenes of nature from your field notes. I hope you will do a modern piece inspired by this project, like the blouse that followed the Carmine Gown.
Thank you Amy! 💚 Let's just say I definitely want a blouse from this silk so we'll see how it goes 😂
First things first, your eye shadow was gorgeous! Love the skirt and fabric. Good job 👍
Thank you!
Oh hell yeah. One, that silk is the most gloriously changeable wizardry I have ever seen. Two, I had no idea that particular skirt pattern was only three pieces. I was tossing up that one and the tulip (? bell?) skirt from tvd for a patchwork marsh faerie costume and argh, that one would have made things so much easierrrr~
I am super excited for this new project :)
Thank you Kat! Yes it is mercifully few pieces which is very nice indeed 😅
That’s a magnificent color… I can’t wait to see the bodice ‘es’ I’m very much looking forward to seeing this project… I’m interested to see how you solve the sleeve support problems. It will be beautiful I’m certain.
Thank you!
This is absolutely gorgeous. That delicious bronze-y green fabric just shimmers. You look fantastic. I cannot wait for the finished spider web embellished gown. I am GREEN with envy.
Thank you Dawn! 💚🕸
Im sewing my 1880s wedding gown with your videos playing. Your voice and energy is so calming! And I love the music.
"In the forest, under the crisp leaves, you know like under a log ... But glamorous." I love it, hands down best description of a color i have ever heard! You are glamorous, talented and funny. Such a treasure to watch.
Thank you Tiffany! 💚
That pleating would be divine in a wool suiting skirt... the movement of the cut is really divine! Beautiful job on the skirt--so excited to see you're off on a new adventure! And your hair looks fabulous, dahlink!!
You'd probably like the video by Mariah Pattie where she recreates one of the Highlander skirts -- they did some amazing things with the pleating that I've never even heard of. 😲
Thank you!!
I get so excited when i get notifications for your videos! Im in a bad bad financial situation so i can live vicariously through you ❤️
Thank you Michaela ❤
Pretty sure I'd watch all the videos of you making household furnishings in different shades of Green. Tis my favorite color.
My dreeeam 💚✨
That fabric is pure magic. Thank you for these wonderfully researched projects that are pop culture adjacent in all the fun ways.
Thank you!
100% Glamourous Under-log Vibes + Moths = GOALS.
Also, that fabric is DELICIOUS.
Thank you Pepper!
Oh. My. God. I spent this whole video just positively drooling over that silk. The color is absolute perfection. But when I saw the finished skirt, I was absolutely gobsmacked. Stunning. Just stunning.
Thank you! It shines so acrid in the light 🤩
I love the eye look on the moths like peacock feathers
As the child of a life long quilt maker (and therefore have been used as free labor quite a bit) the upper body strength needed to move those lengths and layers of fabric is real. She’s part of the state quilt makers guild and I believe a lot of the older members sew on large tables as close the the middle as they can get to take part of the weight of themselves
Sometimes I miss your makeup/beauty videos because that purple and yellow eye is stunning! What a vibe 💜🖤💛
Thank you Nina! If I had a better set up for doing them one day I may make some again 😅
Love them all! Yours is absolutely beautiful, as always! Half mourning? "My husband died and I'm kinda sad.......but I have eyes for my neighbor. so....I'll just wear, some black with some purple." LOL!!!!
Lol, Victorians took mourning etiquette extremely seriously and prescribed categories of mourning (ie, half mourning) depending on your relationship to the person who died and how long ago the died
Thank you Brenda! Mourning rules were indeed quite intense, so you would first have a period of "full mourning" where everything had to be all black and not shiny, then you could start doing black with beads and other texture, then finally after 6 months or a year or so (depending on which relation you lost) you could introduce purple or grey perhaps and slowly ease out of black 💜 And only once out of mourning would it be appropriate to elope with the neighbor ✨
But can we talk about the eyeshadow for just a second? 🤩
I love your long video series. It’s interesting to see all the pieces go together and a small glimpse of how long something like this would take.
Thank you Alex!
Ooh, it's fun to see more Victorian inspired projects! I love your practical mid century videos for things I could actually wear regularly, but I love these for sheer fantasy power. 😊
This would more practical when you replace the silk with a sturdier fabric.
Thank you April! ❤
My mom loves the color green very much. She would also add different shades of green to each room.
The 1890’s sleeves are the best. I can’t wait see it all!
They really are /SO/ fun 😂✨
I think I need to get a cloth to clean up all of the drool I spilled looking at that silk. Such a gorgeous color. I completely agree with your assessment of wanting all of the green silks from Silk Baron. They have such lush colors.
Thank you Kirsten! It really is an extra color, SO epic 🤩
This skirt is absolutely divine, can't wait for more of this project! Just the way it moves...and the fabric...it's dreamy.
Thank you! It's the best fabric for sure 😍
That skirt is beautiful, the bodice or bodices will look stunning with whatever embellishments you create.
Thank you Judy!
I love the illusion of the black and yellow
The color of course is extraordinary. Divine as you say. I'm loving this.
Thank you Sharon!
Honestly I don't know how in the world you ever got yourself to take this off?? It's so gorgeous I think I would have to just wear it at all times, always, forever, and everyone in my life would just have to deal with it. That silk, good heavens. DIVINE
Thank you Breanna! The answer to wanting to take it off is simple, I fear snagging it on something or otherwise ruining it 😂
@@TheClosetHistorian ok that is THE most valid line of logic, lol! Now I see why rich Victorian ladies just sort of… sat all the time, they couldn’t risk damaging their skirts!
Okay the colour of this fabric is soooo pretty
Incredible make-up on you. The moths who would live in the attic, so thorough!
Thank you Heather!
Every time you were on screen, I couldn't tear my eyes from the necklace. Glad to see you've found a top with lower neckline to truly show it off)
The hip area looks fine) And I look forward to the bodice and beading)
Thank you! I am so glad I found the matching brooch for this one too 😅✨
glamorous log moss is a vibe i often find myself trying to achieve
also would love to see your take on an edwardian petticoat!
Masterful work of art combined with great commentary as usual, Bianca!
Thank you Susan!
I used that same silk for my 1780s Oogie Boogie gown! I LOVED it!!!!
1780's in Mandragora sounds most excellent!! I want everything made in this silk now 😂
Holy spiderwebs, this is incredible.
The color, the fabric, the cut, and the video 👌🏻
Thank you for the sewing eye candy
Thank you Nicole!
The fabric color is simply divine! Such a wonderful choice! I am very excited about this series 💚.
Thank you Sinndy!
I love thinking of how my clothing fits as a posture problem!
I wish I could train myselfff, but I am a slouchy slouchy human 😩
Oh my… I’ve been eying that taffeta on Silk Baron’s site and I think seeing this video is going to push me right into buying some.
I reeeeally hope I have enough to make a blouse with some afterwards too 😅💚
you should totally make a black spider web like lace corset cover for this project!!🖤🖤🖤
You are truly a inspiration! Your love for fashion costumes and history just does it for me. I love everyone of your videos especially these types. The cicada gown 😮 ugh! Truly jealous of your talent.
Thank you!
Yay!! Another historical costume project! This made my day.
Thank you Bailey!
Mandragora (AKA Mandrake) is ubiquitous in fantasy, it seems. Used it for a spell in my most recent novel. Fascinating properties.
The shape of the skirt you've chosen is just perfect, and I think that is the most divine shade of green I've ever seen in my life. Can't wait to see the whole gorgeous costume! I'm especially psyched about the pleated black silk bodice section, oof it's just gonna be sumptuous.
Thank you! ❤
Gorgeous! Green and giant sleeves? Outstanding. As a plant and history person with... slightly questionable proclivities, I adore the name of the gown.
Thank you Amanda! Love a wikipedia dive on a questionable plant myself 💚😂
Yeah! Another gorgeous historical costume series! Loooooove that fabric.
Thank you Eliane! 💚
Absolutely beautiful, can't wait. Love your multi part series. You are so adorable. Thank you.
Thank you Linda!
Ooooo that "turn and swoosh" at the end is delightful 😍
Thank you 😂💚
The skirt turned out beautiful and you are right the fabric is absolutely delicious in my favorite colour as well, green.
Thank you!
you are amazing. The editing is superb, sewing is ON POINT, and i never fail to learn something from you every time I watch. Thank you.
Thank you Amanda!
The fabric you’ve chosen is just the most beautiful colour green …. love your videos ❤️
Thank you! 💚
What a beautiful aniseed green after a lovely absinthe green... Love the project!
All the green flavors 💚 Thank you!
Can’t wait to see more of this dress project! Since you like green and moths, I think you might find Pandora sphinx moths aesthetically interesting.
Thank you Laurel! That is indeed one wild looking moth 💚
Oooh, gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous silk! This is absolutely my favourite time period too. I'm very excited for this one!
Thank you! I am falling for the sleeves hard 😍
The color of the silk you are using is drool worthy, so good. I look forward to seeing the completion of this look.
Thank you Katrina!
Yes! I'm so excited for this project
You made my day when came up, you are just so talented, all I can mange is to make scrunchies, love from Tasmania (the best place in the world to live). That fabric is so beautiful.
Another Australian learning to sew from Bianca and stuck on level scrunchie 🤣🤣 I'm in Perth, but agree Tassie is gorgeous!!
Thank you! This fabric would make a very glam scrunchie for sure ✨💚
your makeup in the intro is absolutely stunning. I love the colors! Also that moonstone necklace is lovely
And of course, I love where this project is going! That fabric has such a lovely sheen, it's going to look gorgeous with the beaded spiderwebs!
Thank you! 💚🕸
Like Oliver Twist I’d really like some more of these!!!!
Ooooh, I love these multi-part gown series!!
This video is making me want to spend a ridiculous amount of money on silk - it's just so gorgeous!
It is a very tempting situation! Especially the iridescent onessss 🤩
Oooooh, love this silk, Triumph. Thank you Bee : )
That silk is truly a stunning colour and it is clear you are going to do it justice. I am looking forward to seeing the rest of this gown being made up :-)
Thank you Julia!
Your videos make me so relaxed and sleepy and I mean that in the best way. You have such a soothing voice and watching you sew is just so relaxing. I’m currently snuggled up in an heating blanket and fighting to keep my eyes open haha 🥱😴💚
Thank you Amber! Cozy times are the best times so I'm pleased if I can help ❤
That's a beautiful colour! To push out that train a bit more you could put a balayeuse/dust ruffle underneath. It'd 1) save the fabric and 2) stop dirt from becoming ingrained into the train (dust ruffles were meant to be changed out when needed).
Thank you Margaret! If I ever get to actually wear this costume for an event I shall need a dust ruffle for sure indeed 😅
I love the color of this silk and it is going to be a fantastic gown. Can't wait to see the complete gown. 🖤💚🖤💚
Thank you Fay!
Oh my gosh, that is one fabulous skirt with plenty of built-in swooshes. Bring on the bodice or bodices!
xoxo's Sandie
Thank you Sandie!
This is going to be epic. Love how the skirt came out. Have you thought of adding that stiffener (or even some cotton organdy ruffles) to the new petticoat you might make??? It would help with the silhouette and would not be seen through the skirt. :)
Thank you! I ended up ordering a stiffened lightweight cotton twill to make a new petticoat, so I'll have to see how crisp it is when it gets here!
You’re eyes are divine and your hair is adorable. I love it all and can’t wait to see this journey that you’re on. Next though… I think you need to make one in a deep jewel purple.
Thank you Rachel! I do love purple...💜
that colour is divine!
Everytime I watch one of your masterpieces I feel like you make me want to be more elegant and sophisticated. Everything about this is lovely. Written with love and well wishes xo
Thank you Dawn! I promise I myself am neither very elegant nor sophisticated I fear 😂
You give me hope that in all my clumsiness I will seem eloquent. You are a real role model I can admire. Keep shining like the diamond you are, the world is a better place with you in it. Happy Thanksgiving! Looking forward to seeing what you do next xo
@@DawnYarnDollThank you so much Dawn!! ❤☺ Happy thanksgiving!
Absolutely beautiful, as usual! Your hair looks really nice swept to the side! It accents your eyes really well. My grandmother was a hairdresser back in the 50’s and she did the hair and make-up for the Houston ballet. She told me that bangs pointed straight down and a middle part will focus the eye on your nose area and side swept bangs accentuate the eye area. I haven’t thought about that in many years, but recalled it as I saw your bangs today. God bless.
Thank you Shannon!
Im only a minute in but I had to comment because this look! The hair! The makeup! Brought together with neckline and necklace! 😭 Its all so fantastic!
Thank you!!
Just finished this skirt! Glorious! The fabric is also an amazing color! Congratulations!!! 🌏🌎🌍
Thank you!
Oh wow that GREEN! Beautiful skirt.
Thank you!
Oh yeah buddy!! I am excited!!! I love it when you do these type of creations. Love the color. Love the intended pattern. I am looking forward to watching you create this garment.
Thank you Shevuan!
Oh how exciting! You are by far my favorite youtuber
Thank you Patricia!
Love the opening drama😆
Looking very goth in the intro there, Bianca! 🖤
The fringe was giving me Lydia Deetz
That came out so beautiful. I'm looking forward to seeing the next part in the series!
Thank you!
Another gorgeous gown, yey!
I am loving these series. The green silk taffeta is awesome.
Thank you! 💚
So beautiful!!
Thank you!
Saying that I'm excited about this project is a massive understatement. Love the color and design! 💚
Thank you!
Love the eyeshadow !!! The skirt is breathtaking!!! Looking forward to part 2. :)
Thank you Dolores!
Lady Bianca, I have discovered you this past year, I so love all your videos, your look books and all your makes! You are so elegant, unique, original and always always so inspiring! Love the "acid-arsenic green" colour!
Thank you Nicolina!
The skirt is beautiful!! Thank you for making!
Amazing fabric and plans! I can not wait to see the complete assemble! Will be fantastic, for sure!
Thank you Iara!