My alarm used go off when I locked the car with the remote. After a minute or so it would go off then I hit unlock and lock it again to stop it. That was a couple years ago this was happening. Now it doesn't do that no more but now I hit the button once to lock the doors. I hit the button again to set the alarm it give me two beeps instead of one. Thanks to your video I now know what and where the problem is coming from. 3
I believe it was slightly more difficult because getting my face in there to see proved to be problematic. If you have small hands & arms and a small head, that helps.
@@yousufkan6960 I am unsure since I wasn't paying that much attention to my P71 door switches when I replaced the key lock cylinders, but I would assume that Ford being Ford would use the same part across their platforms whenever possible for cost cutting reasons.
It only tells you if it's the driver door or the other doors. It does not see each individual door except the driver. The other doors are all considered the passenger door.
Because the error was caused by the DDM, a common failure in these cars. A fuse can't cause a malfunction like this. A fuse is either intact and closes a circuit or is damaged and opens the circuit. Removing the fuse opened the circuit and temporarily stopped the malfunction, which I either mentioned in this video or the DDM video.
Does the switch come out of the door latch assembly? You start wiggling it and and the camera cuts out. I removed the screw holding the door ajar switch and wiggled it and it ain't coming out. Any tips?
Switch comes out out. Just rotate it like 90 degrees and you can remove the switch. Might not even need a 90 degree turn. It's been a while since I replaced them so I don't remember exactly but once the screw is out, just rotate the switch and it comes out.
@@HollywoodHornet Might do that as a temporary fix because the lights coming on every 30 seconds while I'm driving at night and that noise is driving me mad.. also figure it's a quick way to tell if it's the DDM or that switch in the door.. if It keeps happening after I ground it out then I figure It's the ddm..
@@HollywoodHornet Right on, I'm testing a new "high level" scan tool and it can read trouble codes from the ddm. And it can also control all of its functions too. I wonder if this tool would have helped your diagnosis.
@@HollywoodHornet Why didn't you diagnose the DDM with the scan tool first, instead of replacing all 4 door switches that were functioning properly? Bazinga! Hindsight is 20/20, I'm just bustin' your plums. lol
@@PanzerPlatform scan tool $300 vs guessing door switches for $60. I made the most economical decision at the time. The WJ Handy dad made a video on the Xtool and it had a coupon so I bought it after the fact. I shop around for deals.
Noooope...thought the same thing ..wrong...replace the electronic door lock module while you have the panel off...order new one take it to ford to program it to your car..only six or seven hundred..ha.keep the fuse out lock it by hand old school ...
My alarm used go off when I locked the car with the remote. After a minute or so it would go off then I hit unlock and lock it again to stop it. That was a couple years ago this was happening. Now it doesn't do that no more but now I hit the button once to lock the doors. I hit the button again to set the alarm it give me two beeps instead of one. Thanks to your video I now know what and where the problem is coming from. 3
Interesting video!! Sorry to hear your car got stolen. Hope you get everything straightened out soon.
Thank you! Total life saver!!!
Love the Roger Moore, 007, Movie Theme background Music,...
Nice video. Good work. Educational
Was removing the rear driver switch just as easy as removing the front driver side switch or more difficult
I believe it was slightly more difficult because getting my face in there to see proved to be problematic. If you have small hands & arms and a small head, that helps.
@@HollywoodHornet do you think or know if the crown Victoria door sensor is compatible with Lincoln town cars? Thank you
@@yousufkan6960 I am unsure since I wasn't paying that much attention to my P71 door switches when I replaced the key lock cylinders, but I would assume that Ford being Ford would use the same part across their platforms whenever possible for cost cutting reasons.
If you plugged in a diagnostic tool would it have determined which door switch it was?
It only tells you if it's the driver door or the other doors. It does not see each individual door except the driver. The other doors are all considered the passenger door.
Do you have a how to video on removing the rear door panel ?
If I didn't go over it in this video, then I don't think so. From what I remember it wasn't much different of a procedure.
Thanks for the video
Did you check the fuse box? Why, why not?
Because the error was caused by the DDM, a common failure in these cars. A fuse can't cause a malfunction like this. A fuse is either intact and closes a circuit or is damaged and opens the circuit. Removing the fuse opened the circuit and temporarily stopped the malfunction, which I either mentioned in this video or the DDM video.
Which fuse or fuses did you take out? I have this problem and won't have time for a couple weeks to fix it.
Does the switch come out of the door latch assembly? You start wiggling it and and the camera cuts out. I removed the screw holding the door ajar switch and wiggled it and it ain't coming out. Any tips?
Switch comes out out. Just rotate it like 90 degrees and you can remove the switch. Might not even need a 90 degree turn. It's been a while since I replaced them so I don't remember exactly but once the screw is out, just rotate the switch and it comes out.
@@HollywoodHornet it's a 97 Town car, single wire going to the switch if I ground that wire will it read as door closed?
@@mikeborrelli193 yes, it will always read closed so you'll have no courtesy lights when you open the doors, etc.
@@HollywoodHornet Might do that as a temporary fix because the lights coming on every 30 seconds while I'm driving at night and that noise is driving me mad.. also figure it's a quick way to tell if it's the DDM or that switch in the door.. if It keeps happening after I ground it out then I figure It's the ddm..
Did you ever figure out what part actually malfunctioned?
Ajar switch, or DDM.
-Chuck
DDM. I replaced all four of the door switches and that fixed it for like two weeks. Your DDM fixed it permanently.
@@HollywoodHornet
Right on,
I'm testing a new "high level" scan tool and it can read trouble codes from the ddm.
And it can also control all of its functions too. I wonder if this tool would have helped your diagnosis.
I used a high level scan tool after making this video to diagnose the DDM. That video hasn't published yet, but when it does, all will be revealed.
@@HollywoodHornet
Why didn't you diagnose the DDM with the scan tool first, instead of replacing all 4 door switches that were functioning properly?
Bazinga!
Hindsight is 20/20, I'm just bustin' your plums. lol
@@PanzerPlatform scan tool $300 vs guessing door switches for $60. I made the most economical decision at the time. The WJ Handy dad made a video on the Xtool and it had a coupon so I bought it after the fact. I shop around for deals.
Noooope...thought the same thing ..wrong...replace the electronic door lock module while you have the panel off...order new one take it to ford to program it to your car..only six or seven hundred..ha.keep the fuse out lock it by hand old school ...
You don't need to pry out the switch housing to remove the door panel..... waste of time.... if you not going to replace it.