Ford Quick Tips #76: Door Ajar Switch Testing and Replacement
Вставка
- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- Welcome back to the shop! Let go in depth with some theory and testing of Ford door ajar switches.
A mix of rust penetrant and WD-40 fixes most of these:
Rust Penetrant I prefer-
amzn.to/2pTXk94
Follow up with this-
amzn.to/2rrmsF5
Long Life Latch Lubricant-
amzn.to/2pL16pa
My Company BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
Website:
www.bsgautomoti...
Facebook:
/ bsgautomotive
Catch up with us on-
Facebook: / fordtechmakuloco
Twitter: / fordtechmak
Instagram: / fordtechmakuloco
My company UA-cam Channel- BSG Automotive providing repair advice on makes and models other than Ford: / bsgautomotive1
Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.
A mix of rust penetrant and WD-40 fixes most of these:
Rust Penetrant I prefer-
amzn.to/2pTXk94
Follow up with this-
amzn.to/2rrmsF5
Long Life Latch Lubricant-
amzn.to/2pL16pa
These videos are so helpful. Thanks so much!
I got the door ajar switch out.. I crossed the terminals in the plug - when I do that the dome light stays on &I get the dinger alarm.. when I remove the jumper, the dinger stops.. and the dome light stays on. when I reconnect the door ajar switch the dome light stays on.. when I depress the metal button on the switch, the dome light stays on AND I get the dinger alarm.
Thank you so much! I stopped the video to try the rust penetrant solution first...and it worked!!
bad advise
@@user-lw2po6lu3k why so? And I’m just curious
Thank you for posting this video. Spraying WD40 fixed mine. I am so grateful to people like you who post helpful videos like this.
@ 5:14 - the unlocking of the tab to allow the switch to come out - just what I needed. It wasn't shown in other videos. Thanks!
penatrent worked like a charm. A million thanks for that tip!!!
The paperclip trick worked perfectly. I've been dealing with the chime for months waiting for warmer days. Within 5 minutes had the door diagnosed. Thanks for uploading.
2005 ford taurus se, the door panel was easy as hell to get off and then removed some of the moisture plastic, removed the three mount screws and oiled the lock enough that the door sensor and electrical plug came off with a little twisting, ( Had to feel around because you can't see because of the way ford designed the door....idiots ) After i removed the door ajar sensor and just left the plug hanging i drove the car around the block and no more annoying dash noise.....thank god! Put the door panel back on with ease and now i will never ever have to hear that noise again. ( I am not going to replace it, not really necessary to have a door ajar chime. ) Without your video i would of never new what the hell i was doing...THANKS A MILLION, this is not the first time you have saved me.
Thanks for the informational video. I just purchased a pre-owned 2012 Ford transit with this issue. I'm a hands on type of person, I will tackle this fix with more confidence knowing what to look for. I appreciate you helping out the car community. I hope you continue to do so.
Thanks for posting another great video. I know these things go bad a lot on the 1998-2011 Ford Ranger 4-door extended cab and I think the back sensors go out more than the front ones do. It's really annoying when you're going down the road and it's making the beeping sound and you're dome light keep going off and on.
Very helpful information. My switch wasn't stuck and never would have been able to get it out without breaking something. Opened swith up and had to clean contacts inside. Working great now. Thanks for vids.
pulled the fuse 10 years ago , finally fixed it thanks to you!
Which fuse did you pull?
Thank you very much. I prayed ro the Lord Jesus and then I found your video and then I sprayed it with some oil and 'BLAM' the lights went off. The Lord is amazing. I'm telling ya, the power of prayer is awesome. It works every time. Maybe not in my timing always but He said "you have not, because you ask not" so ask and you shall receive 😉 😇
Isn’t this kinda a trivial repair that maybe you don’t need the full force of Jesus Christ in order to execute?
Why do you bother the Savior with your stuck pintle?
Thanks for posting this. I use the cleaning option and my door switch is working now you’re the best.
I used PB blaster
I made good money replacing these switches when I was a tech. When my 99F250 started having issues I hosed it with pb blaster and didn't have it act up for about 8 years of ownership afterwards.
Excuse me sir? Do you have any experience with 97 F250. Do you remove the whole door latch? Or weasel in thru the door access ports.
@@christianhilditch9333 some you could sneak in others you have to loosen the latch from the door. Don’t take all the rods loose, just let it hang in the door
It looks like the actual switch comes apart. I'm going to try it tonight. We will see if it does.
Edit: well figuring out how to get the door latch out on my 15 year old Ford took more hours than I am willing to admit. After I finally got the thing out I found that you can indeed take the sensor apart easily. A precision flathead screwdriver is all you need. At 0:13 in the video you can see how there are 2 different colored plastics for the sensor by his thumb. You lightly pry up the latching tab for the darker white plastic part on each side and the case pulls apart. The first side's u shaped latch will sit on top of the locking tab while you do the second one if you do it right. I will add a other edit later on if I was able to get it working again.
Edit 2: it was probably savable. All that is inside is a rubber / silicone seal, a plastic piece that holds a u shaped metal contact, and a spring. The grease or dirt from the past 15 years was blocking the u shaped metal piece from connecting the 2 contacts together. I cleaned it out with "heavy duty silicone spray and multi-use lubricant" I am sure any brand silicone spray or electrical cleaner would work. I broke the spring though so I will need to find a new one to replace it with.....
Hi did you end up getting a new spring? If so, where please?
@@fluffykandie There is a new law, you are only allowed to purchase springs in Spring, unless of course you are in Australia. Then you have to battle a koala bear, in the TREES!
I was about to stop watching it until you mentioned to lubricate it with WD-40 and thank you very much it's fixed
Your video is very clear and concise, thank you! Let’s hope this solves the problem on my daughter’s ‘11 Mustang tomorrow
Thanks for this video! With the help of this video and another. Was able to easily understand how it goes in there. As well as how to get the switch not only out as easily as possible without removing the whole latch like you did.
But by simply watching the other video 1st on how to get it out by removing the latch SCREWS, then moving the whole unit out a little, then removing the door lock (yellow piece) away from it. So that way I could pry the whole unit out a bit. Sticking my head through the inside of the door helped too. To see where the spot was to insert the new switch.
With that I lined it up like you showed and popped it back into place. Not as hard I thought. Thanks again!
Just did my 07 expy xlt, worked like a champ thanks for the video
Done. Thanks you, I didn’t even have to call ghost busters.
2004 Ford Explorer.
Gee, I'm glad you took that switch out of the door latch assembly at the 5:11 point. Very illustrative. I spent about an hour trying to test fit the old part into that hole just to make sure I did it right with the new part, and didn't realize that a bit of plastic, a tab, snapped off of the old part. It was stuck inside the assembly, so the test fit wouldn't hold. Confusing. I used a very small screwdriver to remove it.
So beware! Check the switch you remove; it should have a tab on the shaft. If it doesn't, check inside and remove the broken part or you'll never get the new part to snap in and hold!
The WD-40 worked on my 2003 Mercury Sable! Thanks!
Right on brother. I’m gonna try this next. I replaced the DDM and no change. So this is my next attempt. I’ve got an active door ajar indicator on the dash but no chime. I’ve got no dome lights and no door locks. But power seats and power mirrors and power windows all work fine. No response from door lock function at switch ( tried a new switch ) no response when ignition key cycled 8 times, no response at keypad with last two buttons, no response when in drive or in park. Also noticed no power to trunk release.
Even tho this is an aggravating issue I must admit I’m having fun trying to figure it out. Gonna keep the car for as long as God allows so new door switches next!!! Lol
I'd just like to say thanks. Very helpful. Fixed my door latch.
I should have started with step one...penatrating oil. Once I realized my fat fingers couldn't unplug the connector easily, I tried the wd40 and it worked within seconds! Thank you
Having this problem, but mine is a 2013 cadillac SRX, this helps me understand more of what needs to be done, the concept is pretty much the same. As you said, the hardest part is getting the door panel off and all the othe stuff lol.
thanks you for your videos i bought a used 07 f150 5.4l with 100k miles i was a little scared but your videos helped me out
I have the same problem did you replace the whole sensor or did the wd40 work for you
@@yazzyfresh i did use the wd40 and it worked for about two months then i ended up replacing the sensor and has been working correctly for about 2 years now.
Thanks, My Friend. I am grateful!
05 taurus was saying right rear door ajar when open or closed. I unhooked the wire at switch with latch still in the door. With the wire unhooked it works opposite of what this shows and thinks door is closed. If I reconnect to switch it says door is open. I just left wire unhooked and now car thinks door is always closed.
Yes!! Worked on my '99 Expedition (it was the liftgate latch). Thank you!!
THIS RIGHT HERE!!! I wish I had found this first before reading forums and doing a lot of unnecessary work.
Really good video helps when you pull it out and actually see the mechanism 😊
I LITERALLY followed right along with you with my pop's rear door latch on my kitchen table!! THANKS A TON!!
Great most of the time. Sounds real good especially for a triton and its got good fuel pressure.
Just it hosed down with wd 40 and worked like a charm! Thanx! Actually my door lights would not turn off and now they turn off and on when i open door like there supposed too thanx!
You're awesome!! Thanks so much 🙏 🎉
Thank you bud! Great video! Bingo! saved me the trouble of reading schematics and wasting time! I appreciate it!
Soaked it with WD 40 on only my driver door latch since its the one used 99% of the time. Works great now. Thinking the desert dust with be sticking to it now, so I might take it apart later and do a good cleaning, maybe use dry graphite.
Thank you for this video!
trying this now to see
thank you for this video, i had an alarm installed on my 02 mustang gt and the shop said the alarm wont trigger on the passenger side until i replace the door pin switch, i was looking for an explanation for this, great video! thanks a lot!
That ghost thing was actually pretty funny!
Just had this issue for the first time today. Don’t know if it’s related to the cold or not, but it’s quite annoying to try to drive around with dome lights you can’t shut off.
all my door switches show 0 closed on the scan tool but the driver's door shows 0.24 closed, I assume that a voltage, could that be the sign of a faulty switch, my alarm keeps going off randomly,
Silicone lubricant spray fixed mine. Thank you for the tip!
Ford Edge has this problem slot. We have a lot of people ask in our FB group pages.
Thanks! I sprayed mine down with WDFantastic40. Does that usually fix this stuck switch issue?
Hi, Your video is very useful for me. thanks for your video and clear explanation
As usual, excellent video
Really informative video. Invaluable information. Thanks for taking the time.
Thanks so much! Didn't even know where to start looking LOL one shot of WD-40 and it fixed the problem thanks again
Good to know how to test it...I had a problem with mine last winter(puddle lights staying on)...sprayed with a lot of plastic safe lube and it fixed it (at least for now);-)
Thanks for the tips. The pb blaster in the jam trick seems to have worked.
I tried it what you said to do and it worked thank you very much
Good video! I’m going to try this on all my doors. My dealership wants $1200.00 or more to fix all my doors. This sounds fishy to me!
All your videos are very well done and helpful , especially showing where and when to clean and lube when working on Ford vehicles . On this one am wondering if a simple continuity test at the two pins would work to diagnose whether the door switch is faulty . Open door latch = infinite resistance and closed door = little to no resistance ? By the way on horns that stop working have fixed them by drilling small hole in upper horn body and shooting in WD40 to free up the vibrator mechanism then shake out excess WD 40 . Then smear grease into hole to block potential water and crud ingress.
3:23 I just fixed a 2006 F250. No door ajar operation from passenger side. I found that the system operates exactly opposite of what you described. Open circuit the dome light is off. When ground is applied (switch closed) it turns on. When I tore the truck apart it was missing the door ajar switch on that side. I ordered one from Ford and plugged it in andnothing. Got to looking around found the last mechanic's light in the door. I traced wire back to a broken spot on driver door sill.
Brilliant! This video just saved me $500.
Now I can stop seeing the ghost....
What does it mean when the paper clip is in the lights go out. right the opposite what you said. 2007 ford ranger
Were you able to figure out your problem? I'm having the same problem with the 'opposite' behavior on my 2006 Taurus.
Got my Focus fixed..thanks for the info
Thanks! Finally Got the Jamb Switch changed on out 2013 Expedition. Had to watch the removal procedure SEVERAL times!
Dude you are amazing! Please keep the videos coming!
Thanks, I have wife's 2013 Edge with this problem, was wondering how to fix it. She hates the warning message and lights being on.
Answered my questions! Thanks boss!
Again, really like your videos! Thanks for the info and the education. Tim
Can you use a scanner to figure out which door is causing the issue? I have a 2004 F150 SuperCrew. I have had this issue for years. I tried various sprays but it didn't work so I just learned to live with it. Now I want to try and tackle this again. Thanks
Thanks, WD 40 fixed my problem. I had constant chime noise while door was closed and alarm will randomly go off. What i think caused the problem is a couple days before the issue i had my tints done and they have to use water to put the film on.
Great job on the video very detailed thanks
Bud i love all Ya vids!! The Ghost thing made me spill my Coffe Crackin up ! I needded that ..Have good one! Back to work on my 05 6.0 excur..
2005 Sable happened to pass side door found the power ground exact opposite open off closed on- simply unplugged switch that day as i only had a phillips screw driver so couldnt remove latch
My 2000 Grand Marquis with 29000miles started doing this shit a flew days ago. Gotta try this out!
Thanks man worked on my 2006 mustang. Even though I had to remove the door panel and literally remove that part to lubricate it by hand since mines was in a really bad shape.
My 2011 transit connect has this issue. What a pain of a problem.
I think this may be the issue with my 2017 explorer but no one can seem to figure it out (3 dealerships) but when i search for a replacement mine doesnt look like this. Its a black rubber large piece
Buzzzzzztd. Shocked myself with my jumper
Great video. Can you do one for the tailgate ajar? Looking to do it as an addon. 2017 f150 Lariat
I’ll try this tomorrow.
Thank you!
I am also having a stalling issue. If i accidentally shift past drive into 2 or 1 it will stall sometimes or most times and then will not restart, but i noticed when it doesnt restart, as its cranking, strong crank, the security light on the dash flickers. Doesnt go solid for 3 seconds like it should. My dad thinks the fpdm by spare tire is bad but i dont think the fpdm has anything to do with seems to run
Great video thanks alot
Did you know the part number for the switch? Thanks
The vary each year and model
question...do you have to replace just the driver's side or are there switches in all the doors that need cleaning. How do you know which door sensor is bad?
muy buen video, gracias
What if I unplugged the connector and th door ajar light turned off, then at random times comes on?
HI guys, thanks so much for your videos. I have an issue and I've been searching in the internet for a while with no luck. I have a F150 2003 Lariat. The lights on the doors doesn't turn on. Also, the reading lights of the rear part of the cab. They work though if I press the switch, but in order to turn them off, I have to leave the switch press half way. If I press it all way, when I lock the truck, they turn on again. Weird, uh? If any of you can give me some advice plz! Thx!
Super helpful video - thank you for posting this!
Question for anyone. I have trouble with my light/chime working at all. After dousing in WD40, it started to work for a brief moment when the door is first opened but immediately stopped working. I assumed it was still my switch. When unplugging the switch the dome light/chime still do not work... But then when I jumper it they both work, and stay on indefinitely until I remove the jumper. Any ideas?
So I can remove the wires and install a different door ajar sensor like the ones in the 90s honda civics
When I activate the door switch on my 1999 Grand Marquis, there is no movement in the driver door latch. The other three doors show a metal arm moving downwards which I believe activates the door ajar switch. So I believe that the door ajar light on my dash is due to a failure of the latch mechanism in making contact with the door ajar switch. Maybe the door lock actuator?
on my 98 mustang gt, if door is open I get the chime (like key is in ignition or lights on) close the door chime stops, part 2 my dome light does not turn off. with door closed.
I will forever know that as the ghost door switch now kind of makes sense because it's like the car thinks the door doesn't exist it's a ghost
Question. My dome light is on and the radio will not go on but when i close the doors the power running board do operate and close so what is the problem? Is there some other place for a bad connection?
Thanks for the tip. I give it a spray with Gibbs and a few snaps, and presto, it started working again.. On my Ranger
Does the GEM module control the door switches? I had a windshield leak on my 2000 f250 which killed my battery. After charging them I noticed that my power step courtesy lights were on with the steps up and the doors closed and the steps won’t deploy at all. I’m thinking the windshield leak screwed something up and released the gremlins
Thank you for the video! I installed a puck lock on the rear doors but the van kept saying the door was open. Just off enough to not engage that sensor. Just ended up find that connector in the door and closing the circuit with some wire. Now the van thinks the doors are closed 😃.
To remove the latching mechanism from the door; the three torx screws are secured with blue loctite into the latch body and required some heat on the screws to remove, they don't just come undone. Not too much heat as the bulk of the body is plastic. Have fun.
No need for heat with blue loctite.
Informative and well done video. Thank you.
But after blowing apart several T27 bits, I've found that a moment or two of contact with a hot soldering iron will heat up the fastener enough to allow easier removal. Just say'n.
I have a 2007 Mercury Mountaineer. Sometimes while driving, the dome light will suddenly come on and the automatic driver seat will move back, like the door has been opened. Really freaks you out going 70 miles an hour! Any ideas on what to check or how to fix. It seems to do it mostly when another door or the back hatch has been opened and shut, but not any particular one. And sometimes when you hit a bump in the road.
Hello sir. I thank you for the video. I tested my switch and it's working like you say it should: open door, open circuit; closed door, closed circuit. But my problem is that my chime rings when the door is closed and stops when the door is open. Are you certain the circuit is broken when the door is open? Seems to me a ground would be connected when the door is opened. But I'm used to older, more simple vehicles.
My 03 F250 is doing exactly the same thing! When the door is closed, lights e.t.c. are on like the door is open. Soon as I open the door, they go off!! Did you got yours fixed? If so, what was the solution? Thanks.
I have a 99 f350. Mine was opposite of what the guy said. Unplugged = door closed and jumped = door open
I'm having this problem with a new switch I just installed on wife's 08 Taurus. Did you figure out what was wrong?
I have a 2008 ford ranger, my driver side door ajar/dome light does not come on, but the passenger side does. I tried WD40 and it didn't fix it. But also my headlight indicator (buzzer when headlights are left on) doesn't work either. Is the door ajar and headlight alarm on the same circuit?
Thanks for posting, a great help...!
As I was watching your video,, I was thinking, while I’m in there, I will be installing a after market alarm in my 2006 F150... could you tell me which wire I would use for the alarm, if someone opens the door when the alarm is armed.....
Again, Thank You for all your help...!
How do you know what door switch is bad, thank you
Need help!!! This is my deal, Ford Excursion door ajar light on with door closed off with door open, drivers/front pass/ and back gate all do it can't figure it out! Back pass on both sides fine