A mix of rust penetrant and WD-40 fixes most of these: Rust Penetrant I prefer- amzn.to/2pTXk94 Follow up with this- amzn.to/2rrmsF5 Long Life Latch Lubricant- amzn.to/2pL16pa
I got the door ajar switch out.. I crossed the terminals in the plug - when I do that the dome light stays on &I get the dinger alarm.. when I remove the jumper, the dinger stops.. and the dome light stays on. when I reconnect the door ajar switch the dome light stays on.. when I depress the metal button on the switch, the dome light stays on AND I get the dinger alarm.
2005 ford taurus se, the door panel was easy as hell to get off and then removed some of the moisture plastic, removed the three mount screws and oiled the lock enough that the door sensor and electrical plug came off with a little twisting, ( Had to feel around because you can't see because of the way ford designed the door....idiots ) After i removed the door ajar sensor and just left the plug hanging i drove the car around the block and no more annoying dash noise.....thank god! Put the door panel back on with ease and now i will never ever have to hear that noise again. ( I am not going to replace it, not really necessary to have a door ajar chime. ) Without your video i would of never new what the hell i was doing...THANKS A MILLION, this is not the first time you have saved me.
Thank you very much. I prayed ro the Lord Jesus and then I found your video and then I sprayed it with some oil and 'BLAM' the lights went off. The Lord is amazing. I'm telling ya, the power of prayer is awesome. It works every time. Maybe not in my timing always but He said "you have not, because you ask not" so ask and you shall receive 😉 😇
The paperclip trick worked perfectly. I've been dealing with the chime for months waiting for warmer days. Within 5 minutes had the door diagnosed. Thanks for uploading.
It looks like the actual switch comes apart. I'm going to try it tonight. We will see if it does. Edit: well figuring out how to get the door latch out on my 15 year old Ford took more hours than I am willing to admit. After I finally got the thing out I found that you can indeed take the sensor apart easily. A precision flathead screwdriver is all you need. At 0:13 in the video you can see how there are 2 different colored plastics for the sensor by his thumb. You lightly pry up the latching tab for the darker white plastic part on each side and the case pulls apart. The first side's u shaped latch will sit on top of the locking tab while you do the second one if you do it right. I will add a other edit later on if I was able to get it working again. Edit 2: it was probably savable. All that is inside is a rubber / silicone seal, a plastic piece that holds a u shaped metal contact, and a spring. The grease or dirt from the past 15 years was blocking the u shaped metal piece from connecting the 2 contacts together. I cleaned it out with "heavy duty silicone spray and multi-use lubricant" I am sure any brand silicone spray or electrical cleaner would work. I broke the spring though so I will need to find a new one to replace it with.....
@@fluffykandie There is a new law, you are only allowed to purchase springs in Spring, unless of course you are in Australia. Then you have to battle a koala bear, in the TREES!
Awesome video. I just replaced the switch on a 2002 Expedition rear passenger door. Removal of the latch wasn't worth the battle so I replaced it without removing. Access was tight, but with multiple ratchet extensions and a flat head bit. I was able to lift the tab and turn the switch for removal.
Thanks for the informational video. I just purchased a pre-owned 2012 Ford transit with this issue. I'm a hands on type of person, I will tackle this fix with more confidence knowing what to look for. I appreciate you helping out the car community. I hope you continue to do so.
Thanks for posting another great video. I know these things go bad a lot on the 1998-2011 Ford Ranger 4-door extended cab and I think the back sensors go out more than the front ones do. It's really annoying when you're going down the road and it's making the beeping sound and you're dome light keep going off and on.
2004 Ford Explorer. Gee, I'm glad you took that switch out of the door latch assembly at the 5:11 point. Very illustrative. I spent about an hour trying to test fit the old part into that hole just to make sure I did it right with the new part, and didn't realize that a bit of plastic, a tab, snapped off of the old part. It was stuck inside the assembly, so the test fit wouldn't hold. Confusing. I used a very small screwdriver to remove it. So beware! Check the switch you remove; it should have a tab on the shaft. If it doesn't, check inside and remove the broken part or you'll never get the new part to snap in and hold!
I made good money replacing these switches when I was a tech. When my 99F250 started having issues I hosed it with pb blaster and didn't have it act up for about 8 years of ownership afterwards.
@@christianhilditch9333 some you could sneak in others you have to loosen the latch from the door. Don’t take all the rods loose, just let it hang in the door
Very helpful information. My switch wasn't stuck and never would have been able to get it out without breaking something. Opened swith up and had to clean contacts inside. Working great now. Thanks for vids.
I should have started with step one...penatrating oil. Once I realized my fat fingers couldn't unplug the connector easily, I tried the wd40 and it worked within seconds! Thank you
Right on brother. I’m gonna try this next. I replaced the DDM and no change. So this is my next attempt. I’ve got an active door ajar indicator on the dash but no chime. I’ve got no dome lights and no door locks. But power seats and power mirrors and power windows all work fine. No response from door lock function at switch ( tried a new switch ) no response when ignition key cycled 8 times, no response at keypad with last two buttons, no response when in drive or in park. Also noticed no power to trunk release. Even tho this is an aggravating issue I must admit I’m having fun trying to figure it out. Gonna keep the car for as long as God allows so new door switches next!!! Lol
Thanks for this video! With the help of this video and another. Was able to easily understand how it goes in there. As well as how to get the switch not only out as easily as possible without removing the whole latch like you did. But by simply watching the other video 1st on how to get it out by removing the latch SCREWS, then moving the whole unit out a little, then removing the door lock (yellow piece) away from it. So that way I could pry the whole unit out a bit. Sticking my head through the inside of the door helped too. To see where the spot was to insert the new switch. With that I lined it up like you showed and popped it back into place. Not as hard I thought. Thanks again!
Soaked it with WD 40 on only my driver door latch since its the one used 99% of the time. Works great now. Thinking the desert dust with be sticking to it now, so I might take it apart later and do a good cleaning, maybe use dry graphite. Thank you for this video!
Having this problem, but mine is a 2013 cadillac SRX, this helps me understand more of what needs to be done, the concept is pretty much the same. As you said, the hardest part is getting the door panel off and all the othe stuff lol.
05 taurus was saying right rear door ajar when open or closed. I unhooked the wire at switch with latch still in the door. With the wire unhooked it works opposite of what this shows and thinks door is closed. If I reconnect to switch it says door is open. I just left wire unhooked and now car thinks door is always closed.
Just it hosed down with wd 40 and worked like a charm! Thanx! Actually my door lights would not turn off and now they turn off and on when i open door like there supposed too thanx!
@@yazzyfresh i did use the wd40 and it worked for about two months then i ended up replacing the sensor and has been working correctly for about 2 years now.
Just had this issue for the first time today. Don’t know if it’s related to the cold or not, but it’s quite annoying to try to drive around with dome lights you can’t shut off.
all my door switches show 0 closed on the scan tool but the driver's door shows 0.24 closed, I assume that a voltage, could that be the sign of a faulty switch, my alarm keeps going off randomly,
thank you for this video, i had an alarm installed on my 02 mustang gt and the shop said the alarm wont trigger on the passenger side until i replace the door pin switch, i was looking for an explanation for this, great video! thanks a lot!
3:23 I just fixed a 2006 F250. No door ajar operation from passenger side. I found that the system operates exactly opposite of what you described. Open circuit the dome light is off. When ground is applied (switch closed) it turns on. When I tore the truck apart it was missing the door ajar switch on that side. I ordered one from Ford and plugged it in andnothing. Got to looking around found the last mechanic's light in the door. I traced wire back to a broken spot on driver door sill.
All your videos are very well done and helpful , especially showing where and when to clean and lube when working on Ford vehicles . On this one am wondering if a simple continuity test at the two pins would work to diagnose whether the door switch is faulty . Open door latch = infinite resistance and closed door = little to no resistance ? By the way on horns that stop working have fixed them by drilling small hole in upper horn body and shooting in WD40 to free up the vibrator mechanism then shake out excess WD 40 . Then smear grease into hole to block potential water and crud ingress.
Thanks, WD 40 fixed my problem. I had constant chime noise while door was closed and alarm will randomly go off. What i think caused the problem is a couple days before the issue i had my tints done and they have to use water to put the film on.
Can you use a scanner to figure out which door is causing the issue? I have a 2004 F150 SuperCrew. I have had this issue for years. I tried various sprays but it didn't work so I just learned to live with it. Now I want to try and tackle this again. Thanks
To remove the latching mechanism from the door; the three torx screws are secured with blue loctite into the latch body and required some heat on the screws to remove, they don't just come undone. Not too much heat as the bulk of the body is plastic. Have fun.
Informative and well done video. Thank you. But after blowing apart several T27 bits, I've found that a moment or two of contact with a hot soldering iron will heat up the fastener enough to allow easier removal. Just say'n.
Does the GEM module control the door switches? I had a windshield leak on my 2000 f250 which killed my battery. After charging them I noticed that my power step courtesy lights were on with the steps up and the doors closed and the steps won’t deploy at all. I’m thinking the windshield leak screwed something up and released the gremlins
question...do you have to replace just the driver's side or are there switches in all the doors that need cleaning. How do you know which door sensor is bad?
I have a 2003 crew cab, I'm having problems with the switch... it functions fine when it's not inserted into the latch mechanism, but when it's inserted in the mechanism and then I put the three bolts back in to secure it to the door, it alters the angle of rotation that the switch was in and then the dome light comes back on when the door is closed, and turns off when the door is open... any idea if the switch needs to be at a certain position? I've found a 1 or 2 oclock position when looking straight at the latch is what works, but it gets shoved over to a 12 or 11 position when reattaching the mechanism to the door... any thoughts? I have the original switch and a new switch, the original latch mechanism and a new mechanism, same problem each time.
Question would the door ajar light have any thing to do with middle Council shutting off “radio, heat” When I’m driving door open will pop up then the middle counsel shuts down sometimes it comes back on a few seconds later last night not so lucky stayed off. I’ve been researching videos I can’t find any connection with the two? I have a 2011 Ford fusion SE
Do the 6th gen Mustangs have the same mechanism? On mine, the door ajar warning works fine but the window randomly does the small drop as if I was opening the door. It feels like the switch now has two steps (or there are two separate switches that trigger at slightly different points)? When it works fine, I tried slowly opening my door and noticed that it would first trigger the small window drop and as the door opened a tiny bit more then door ajar / dome lights came on.
Hello, don't know if you monitor these comments but I'll ask my question. When I jump the wire on the truck It shows the door is closed. My problem is when the door/latch is open the switch is closed. And when the door/latch is closed the switch is open. Is it possible to install the switches wrong? I had new used doors put on the truck so I have four spare latches and switches. I have both styles of switches. No matter what combination of switch/latch I try I get the same results.
Good to know how to test it...I had a problem with mine last winter(puddle lights staying on)...sprayed with a lot of plastic safe lube and it fixed it (at least for now);-)
Hey Brian. I have a 2006 Ford F-150 with a 5.4, pretty sure its the 3 valve. Extended cab. Half doors in back. I am having an issue with what i thought was the door ajar switch. I ordered a replacement switch off rock auto which is supposedly a genuine motorcraft replacement, i dont know for sure. I tried to diag with these tips. When i unplug the switch the lights didnt come on. When i turn the dimmer switch on dash all the way up the lights will come on. I havent gotten the latch completely out yet idk if im going to cause im not positive the switch is the problem. Im doing it on the driver door. Could i also have a bad switch on passenger door causing both not to work? What else could be wrong causing this?
I am also having a stalling issue. If i accidentally shift past drive into 2 or 1 it will stall sometimes or most times and then will not restart, but i noticed when it doesnt restart, as its cranking, strong crank, the security light on the dash flickers. Doesnt go solid for 3 seconds like it should. My dad thinks the fpdm by spare tire is bad but i dont think the fpdm has anything to do with seems to run
My 2006 Ford Crown Victoria driver front door acts opposite of this. Door opened or closed the door open indicator chime does not illuminate and dome light does not come on. All other 3 doors work as they should. Would this be the door latch sensor or something else??
I need some help... I jumped my connectior at the door switch but still get the door ajar message. I tested continuity from the switch connection to the A pillar connection, which checks out good. I should be able to test now from the switch connector to the fuse panel connector, without taking the door off again correct? what if that checks good?
02 Super Duty super cab. New door switches and new calibrated VSM. The door ajar and dome light work in reverse. Door open lights off, closed on. There is a different part number from 01 to 02 reference the door ajar switches. I wonder if I have 01 door latches causing the 02 switches to be incorrect. Any advice ?
I think this may be the issue with my 2017 explorer but no one can seem to figure it out (3 dealerships) but when i search for a replacement mine doesnt look like this. Its a black rubber large piece
Question for you I swapped my cluster in 08 f150 gained a tach, but lost the door ajar warning I have crank window cluster is out of electric window model. do I have to get into vehicle control module to fix this? or Simpler way?
mine got a ball stuck in switch, i try to push the ball to free up but instead it goes in further, also try to put some oil on the ball. is it better with push button switch? i need to get a switch like yours so i dont get ball stuck
2005 Sable happened to pass side door found the power ground exact opposite open off closed on- simply unplugged switch that day as i only had a phillips screw driver so couldnt remove latch
Could this also be the problem of random alarm going off on 06 Ford Taurus? I have soaked with lithium grease & WD40. It stopped for a couple of weeks, but started up again.
Does this switch stop the door from latching during very cold, freezing weather? 2004 Taurus SE. When the weather is very cold, or I've washed the vehicle, and it later freezes, the door won't latch shut until it warms up. I've WD-40'd it, and greased it repeatedly. I now have to heat it up with a lighter until the latch catches, and the door stays closed.
I have a 2007 Mercury Mountaineer. Sometimes while driving, the dome light will suddenly come on and the automatic driver seat will move back, like the door has been opened. Really freaks you out going 70 miles an hour! Any ideas on what to check or how to fix. It seems to do it mostly when another door or the back hatch has been opened and shut, but not any particular one. And sometimes when you hit a bump in the road.
I sprayed a fair amount of wd40 into the latch , it kinda worked after open and closed few times, the warning was gone but then it came bk on after I open and closed again?
@FordTechMakuloco, Okay, so I got into my 02 explorer driver door, and found two damaged but not broken wires. Taped them up. Now the door sensor works KOEO, but not KOER. The moment after I start it up, it begins acting up as if no repair has been made. Ideas?
03 f350. my right rear all of the sudden started "working" I've owned it for 4yrs and the right rear never activated the lights and my running boards. now all of the sudden when I turned the ignition on to roll up my front windows last night the dome light stayed on and my right running board would not retract. really strange thing is when I open that RR door the lights go out! with the RR door open the Front right door works normally. could this be the gem unit? or is it just a strange incident that the light goes out with the door open? California truck no rust or corrosion.
When I activate the door switch on my 1999 Grand Marquis, there is no movement in the driver door latch. The other three doors show a metal arm moving downwards which I believe activates the door ajar switch. So I believe that the door ajar light on my dash is due to a failure of the latch mechanism in making contact with the door ajar switch. Maybe the door lock actuator?
A mix of rust penetrant and WD-40 fixes most of these:
Rust Penetrant I prefer-
amzn.to/2pTXk94
Follow up with this-
amzn.to/2rrmsF5
Long Life Latch Lubricant-
amzn.to/2pL16pa
These videos are so helpful. Thanks so much!
I got the door ajar switch out.. I crossed the terminals in the plug - when I do that the dome light stays on &I get the dinger alarm.. when I remove the jumper, the dinger stops.. and the dome light stays on. when I reconnect the door ajar switch the dome light stays on.. when I depress the metal button on the switch, the dome light stays on AND I get the dinger alarm.
Thank you so much! I stopped the video to try the rust penetrant solution first...and it worked!!
bad advise
@@user-lw2po6lu3k why so? And I’m just curious
Thank you for posting this video. Spraying WD40 fixed mine. I am so grateful to people like you who post helpful videos like this.
2005 ford taurus se, the door panel was easy as hell to get off and then removed some of the moisture plastic, removed the three mount screws and oiled the lock enough that the door sensor and electrical plug came off with a little twisting, ( Had to feel around because you can't see because of the way ford designed the door....idiots ) After i removed the door ajar sensor and just left the plug hanging i drove the car around the block and no more annoying dash noise.....thank god! Put the door panel back on with ease and now i will never ever have to hear that noise again. ( I am not going to replace it, not really necessary to have a door ajar chime. ) Without your video i would of never new what the hell i was doing...THANKS A MILLION, this is not the first time you have saved me.
@ 5:14 - the unlocking of the tab to allow the switch to come out - just what I needed. It wasn't shown in other videos. Thanks!
Thank you very much. I prayed ro the Lord Jesus and then I found your video and then I sprayed it with some oil and 'BLAM' the lights went off. The Lord is amazing. I'm telling ya, the power of prayer is awesome. It works every time. Maybe not in my timing always but He said "you have not, because you ask not" so ask and you shall receive 😉 😇
Isn’t this kinda a trivial repair that maybe you don’t need the full force of Jesus Christ in order to execute?
Why do you bother the Savior with your stuck pintle?
❤Amen praise Jesus
The paperclip trick worked perfectly. I've been dealing with the chime for months waiting for warmer days. Within 5 minutes had the door diagnosed. Thanks for uploading.
It looks like the actual switch comes apart. I'm going to try it tonight. We will see if it does.
Edit: well figuring out how to get the door latch out on my 15 year old Ford took more hours than I am willing to admit. After I finally got the thing out I found that you can indeed take the sensor apart easily. A precision flathead screwdriver is all you need. At 0:13 in the video you can see how there are 2 different colored plastics for the sensor by his thumb. You lightly pry up the latching tab for the darker white plastic part on each side and the case pulls apart. The first side's u shaped latch will sit on top of the locking tab while you do the second one if you do it right. I will add a other edit later on if I was able to get it working again.
Edit 2: it was probably savable. All that is inside is a rubber / silicone seal, a plastic piece that holds a u shaped metal contact, and a spring. The grease or dirt from the past 15 years was blocking the u shaped metal piece from connecting the 2 contacts together. I cleaned it out with "heavy duty silicone spray and multi-use lubricant" I am sure any brand silicone spray or electrical cleaner would work. I broke the spring though so I will need to find a new one to replace it with.....
Hi did you end up getting a new spring? If so, where please?
@@fluffykandie There is a new law, you are only allowed to purchase springs in Spring, unless of course you are in Australia. Then you have to battle a koala bear, in the TREES!
Awesome video. I just replaced the switch on a 2002 Expedition rear passenger door. Removal of the latch wasn't worth the battle so I replaced it without removing. Access was tight, but with multiple ratchet extensions and a flat head bit. I was able to lift the tab and turn the switch for removal.
Thanks for the informational video. I just purchased a pre-owned 2012 Ford transit with this issue. I'm a hands on type of person, I will tackle this fix with more confidence knowing what to look for. I appreciate you helping out the car community. I hope you continue to do so.
penatrent worked like a charm. A million thanks for that tip!!!
pulled the fuse 10 years ago , finally fixed it thanks to you!
Which fuse did you pull?
Thanks for posting another great video. I know these things go bad a lot on the 1998-2011 Ford Ranger 4-door extended cab and I think the back sensors go out more than the front ones do. It's really annoying when you're going down the road and it's making the beeping sound and you're dome light keep going off and on.
2004 Ford Explorer.
Gee, I'm glad you took that switch out of the door latch assembly at the 5:11 point. Very illustrative. I spent about an hour trying to test fit the old part into that hole just to make sure I did it right with the new part, and didn't realize that a bit of plastic, a tab, snapped off of the old part. It was stuck inside the assembly, so the test fit wouldn't hold. Confusing. I used a very small screwdriver to remove it.
So beware! Check the switch you remove; it should have a tab on the shaft. If it doesn't, check inside and remove the broken part or you'll never get the new part to snap in and hold!
I made good money replacing these switches when I was a tech. When my 99F250 started having issues I hosed it with pb blaster and didn't have it act up for about 8 years of ownership afterwards.
Excuse me sir? Do you have any experience with 97 F250. Do you remove the whole door latch? Or weasel in thru the door access ports.
@@christianhilditch9333 some you could sneak in others you have to loosen the latch from the door. Don’t take all the rods loose, just let it hang in the door
Very helpful information. My switch wasn't stuck and never would have been able to get it out without breaking something. Opened swith up and had to clean contacts inside. Working great now. Thanks for vids.
I should have started with step one...penatrating oil. Once I realized my fat fingers couldn't unplug the connector easily, I tried the wd40 and it worked within seconds! Thank you
Right on brother. I’m gonna try this next. I replaced the DDM and no change. So this is my next attempt. I’ve got an active door ajar indicator on the dash but no chime. I’ve got no dome lights and no door locks. But power seats and power mirrors and power windows all work fine. No response from door lock function at switch ( tried a new switch ) no response when ignition key cycled 8 times, no response at keypad with last two buttons, no response when in drive or in park. Also noticed no power to trunk release.
Even tho this is an aggravating issue I must admit I’m having fun trying to figure it out. Gonna keep the car for as long as God allows so new door switches next!!! Lol
Just did my 07 expy xlt, worked like a champ thanks for the video
I was about to stop watching it until you mentioned to lubricate it with WD-40 and thank you very much it's fixed
Thanks for this video! With the help of this video and another. Was able to easily understand how it goes in there. As well as how to get the switch not only out as easily as possible without removing the whole latch like you did.
But by simply watching the other video 1st on how to get it out by removing the latch SCREWS, then moving the whole unit out a little, then removing the door lock (yellow piece) away from it. So that way I could pry the whole unit out a bit. Sticking my head through the inside of the door helped too. To see where the spot was to insert the new switch.
With that I lined it up like you showed and popped it back into place. Not as hard I thought. Thanks again!
Thanks for posting this. I use the cleaning option and my door switch is working now you’re the best.
I used PB blaster
I LITERALLY followed right along with you with my pop's rear door latch on my kitchen table!! THANKS A TON!!
Soaked it with WD 40 on only my driver door latch since its the one used 99% of the time. Works great now. Thinking the desert dust with be sticking to it now, so I might take it apart later and do a good cleaning, maybe use dry graphite.
Thank you for this video!
trying this now to see
Having this problem, but mine is a 2013 cadillac SRX, this helps me understand more of what needs to be done, the concept is pretty much the same. As you said, the hardest part is getting the door panel off and all the othe stuff lol.
THIS RIGHT HERE!!! I wish I had found this first before reading forums and doing a lot of unnecessary work.
Your video is very clear and concise, thank you! Let’s hope this solves the problem on my daughter’s ‘11 Mustang tomorrow
I'd just like to say thanks. Very helpful. Fixed my door latch.
What does it mean when the paper clip is in the lights go out. right the opposite what you said. 2007 ford ranger
Were you able to figure out your problem? I'm having the same problem with the 'opposite' behavior on my 2006 Taurus.
05 taurus was saying right rear door ajar when open or closed. I unhooked the wire at switch with latch still in the door. With the wire unhooked it works opposite of what this shows and thinks door is closed. If I reconnect to switch it says door is open. I just left wire unhooked and now car thinks door is always closed.
Done. Thanks you, I didn’t even have to call ghost busters.
The WD-40 worked on my 2003 Mercury Sable! Thanks!
Now I can stop seeing the ghost....
Just it hosed down with wd 40 and worked like a charm! Thanx! Actually my door lights would not turn off and now they turn off and on when i open door like there supposed too thanx!
Great most of the time. Sounds real good especially for a triton and its got good fuel pressure.
Thanks! I sprayed mine down with WDFantastic40. Does that usually fix this stuck switch issue?
thanks you for your videos i bought a used 07 f150 5.4l with 100k miles i was a little scared but your videos helped me out
I have the same problem did you replace the whole sensor or did the wd40 work for you
@@yazzyfresh i did use the wd40 and it worked for about two months then i ended up replacing the sensor and has been working correctly for about 2 years now.
Thanks! Finally Got the Jamb Switch changed on out 2013 Expedition. Had to watch the removal procedure SEVERAL times!
Just had this issue for the first time today. Don’t know if it’s related to the cold or not, but it’s quite annoying to try to drive around with dome lights you can’t shut off.
Ford Edge has this problem slot. We have a lot of people ask in our FB group pages.
Really good video helps when you pull it out and actually see the mechanism 😊
all my door switches show 0 closed on the scan tool but the driver's door shows 0.24 closed, I assume that a voltage, could that be the sign of a faulty switch, my alarm keeps going off randomly,
Yes!! Worked on my '99 Expedition (it was the liftgate latch). Thank you!!
Thank you bud! Great video! Bingo! saved me the trouble of reading schematics and wasting time! I appreciate it!
thank you for this video, i had an alarm installed on my 02 mustang gt and the shop said the alarm wont trigger on the passenger side until i replace the door pin switch, i was looking for an explanation for this, great video! thanks a lot!
That ghost thing was actually pretty funny!
Silicone lubricant spray fixed mine. Thank you for the tip!
3:23 I just fixed a 2006 F250. No door ajar operation from passenger side. I found that the system operates exactly opposite of what you described. Open circuit the dome light is off. When ground is applied (switch closed) it turns on. When I tore the truck apart it was missing the door ajar switch on that side. I ordered one from Ford and plugged it in andnothing. Got to looking around found the last mechanic's light in the door. I traced wire back to a broken spot on driver door sill.
All your videos are very well done and helpful , especially showing where and when to clean and lube when working on Ford vehicles . On this one am wondering if a simple continuity test at the two pins would work to diagnose whether the door switch is faulty . Open door latch = infinite resistance and closed door = little to no resistance ? By the way on horns that stop working have fixed them by drilling small hole in upper horn body and shooting in WD40 to free up the vibrator mechanism then shake out excess WD 40 . Then smear grease into hole to block potential water and crud ingress.
Thanks, WD 40 fixed my problem. I had constant chime noise while door was closed and alarm will randomly go off. What i think caused the problem is a couple days before the issue i had my tints done and they have to use water to put the film on.
Good video! I’m going to try this on all my doors. My dealership wants $1200.00 or more to fix all my doors. This sounds fishy to me!
Brilliant! This video just saved me $500.
Thanks, My Friend. I am grateful!
Dude you are amazing! Please keep the videos coming!
Can you use a scanner to figure out which door is causing the issue? I have a 2004 F150 SuperCrew. I have had this issue for years. I tried various sprays but it didn't work so I just learned to live with it. Now I want to try and tackle this again. Thanks
As usual, excellent video
You're awesome!! Thanks so much 🙏 🎉
To remove the latching mechanism from the door; the three torx screws are secured with blue loctite into the latch body and required some heat on the screws to remove, they don't just come undone. Not too much heat as the bulk of the body is plastic. Have fun.
No need for heat with blue loctite.
Informative and well done video. Thank you.
But after blowing apart several T27 bits, I've found that a moment or two of contact with a hot soldering iron will heat up the fastener enough to allow easier removal. Just say'n.
Does the GEM module control the door switches? I had a windshield leak on my 2000 f250 which killed my battery. After charging them I noticed that my power step courtesy lights were on with the steps up and the doors closed and the steps won’t deploy at all. I’m thinking the windshield leak screwed something up and released the gremlins
Hi, Your video is very useful for me. thanks for your video and clear explanation
Thanks for the tip. I give it a spray with Gibbs and a few snaps, and presto, it started working again.. On my Ranger
Great video. Can you do one for the tailgate ajar? Looking to do it as an addon. 2017 f150 Lariat
question...do you have to replace just the driver's side or are there switches in all the doors that need cleaning. How do you know which door sensor is bad?
I have a 2003 crew cab, I'm having problems with the switch... it functions fine when it's not inserted into the latch mechanism, but when it's inserted in the mechanism and then I put the three bolts back in to secure it to the door, it alters the angle of rotation that the switch was in and then the dome light comes back on when the door is closed, and turns off when the door is open... any idea if the switch needs to be at a certain position? I've found a 1 or 2 oclock position when looking straight at the latch is what works, but it gets shoved over to a 12 or 11 position when reattaching the mechanism to the door... any thoughts? I have the original switch and a new switch, the original latch mechanism and a new mechanism, same problem each time.
Question would the door ajar light have any thing to do with middle Council shutting off “radio, heat” When I’m driving door open will pop up then the middle counsel shuts down sometimes it comes back on a few seconds later last night not so lucky stayed off. I’ve been researching videos I can’t find any connection with the two? I have a 2011 Ford fusion SE
Really informative video. Invaluable information. Thanks for taking the time.
Is there a difference between the door ajar switch in an 02 Explorer as opposed to say an 02 Expedition or Navigator?
Do the 6th gen Mustangs have the same mechanism? On mine, the door ajar warning works fine but the window randomly does the small drop as if I was opening the door. It feels like the switch now has two steps (or there are two separate switches that trigger at slightly different points)? When it works fine, I tried slowly opening my door and noticed that it would first trigger the small window drop and as the door opened a tiny bit more then door ajar / dome lights came on.
Thanks for the tips. The pb blaster in the jam trick seems to have worked.
I tried it what you said to do and it worked thank you very much
Hello, don't know if you monitor these comments but I'll ask my question.
When I jump the wire on the truck It shows the door is closed. My problem is when the door/latch is open the switch is closed. And when the door/latch is closed the switch is open. Is it possible to install the switches wrong?
I had new used doors put on the truck so I have four spare latches and switches. I have both styles of switches. No matter what combination of switch/latch I try I get the same results.
Answered my questions! Thanks boss!
Good to know how to test it...I had a problem with mine last winter(puddle lights staying on)...sprayed with a lot of plastic safe lube and it fixed it (at least for now);-)
Buzzzzzztd. Shocked myself with my jumper
Hey Brian. I have a 2006 Ford F-150 with a 5.4, pretty sure its the 3 valve. Extended cab. Half doors in back. I am having an issue with what i thought was the door ajar switch. I ordered a replacement switch off rock auto which is supposedly a genuine motorcraft replacement, i dont know for sure. I tried to diag with these tips. When i unplug the switch the lights didnt come on. When i turn the dimmer switch on dash all the way up the lights will come on. I havent gotten the latch completely out yet idk if im going to cause im not positive the switch is the problem. Im doing it on the driver door. Could i also have a bad switch on passenger door causing both not to work? What else could be wrong causing this?
Thanks so much! Didn't even know where to start looking LOL one shot of WD-40 and it fixed the problem thanks again
I am also having a stalling issue. If i accidentally shift past drive into 2 or 1 it will stall sometimes or most times and then will not restart, but i noticed when it doesnt restart, as its cranking, strong crank, the security light on the dash flickers. Doesnt go solid for 3 seconds like it should. My dad thinks the fpdm by spare tire is bad but i dont think the fpdm has anything to do with seems to run
Does this door jamb switch fit every side of 2006 ford f150 4.6
Is this the same with Ford taurus if so which year's??
Any help appreciated thank you.
Worth coating the ball on the new switch with anti-seize?
My 2006 Ford Crown Victoria driver front door acts opposite of this. Door opened or closed the door open indicator chime does not illuminate and dome light does not come on. All other 3 doors work as they should. Would this be the door latch sensor or something else??
Great job on the video very detailed thanks
I need some help... I jumped my connectior at the door switch but still get the door ajar message. I tested continuity from the switch connection to the A pillar connection, which checks out good. I should be able to test now from the switch connector to the fuse panel connector, without taking the door off again correct? what if that checks good?
02 Super Duty super cab. New door switches and new calibrated VSM. The door ajar and dome light work in reverse. Door open lights off, closed on. There is a different part number from 01 to 02 reference the door ajar switches. I wonder if I have 01 door latches causing the 02 switches to be incorrect. Any advice ?
I just sprayed a generous amount of WDF into the switch and I have an immediate result, which is nice. Just hoping it will last!
I think this may be the issue with my 2017 explorer but no one can seem to figure it out (3 dealerships) but when i search for a replacement mine doesnt look like this. Its a black rubber large piece
My 2000 Grand Marquis with 29000miles started doing this shit a flew days ago. Gotta try this out!
Question for you I swapped my cluster in 08 f150 gained a tach, but lost the door ajar warning I have crank window cluster is out of electric window model. do I have to get into vehicle control module to fix this? or Simpler way?
mine got a ball stuck in switch, i try to push the ball to free up but instead it goes in further, also try to put some oil on the ball. is it better with push button switch? i need to get a switch like yours so i dont get ball stuck
Does this apply to Lincoln town cars as well ? Hey he passenger rear door won’t lock at all, even when you drive off. Any help appreciated
2005 Sable happened to pass side door found the power ground exact opposite open off closed on- simply unplugged switch that day as i only had a phillips screw driver so couldnt remove latch
Could this also be the problem of random alarm going off on 06 Ford Taurus? I have soaked with lithium grease & WD40. It stopped for a couple of weeks, but started up again.
Does this switch stop the door from latching during very cold, freezing weather? 2004 Taurus SE. When the weather is very cold, or I've washed the vehicle, and it later freezes, the door won't latch shut until it warms up. I've WD-40'd it, and greased it repeatedly.
I now have to heat it up with a lighter until the latch catches, and the door stays closed.
I have a 2007 Mercury Mountaineer. Sometimes while driving, the dome light will suddenly come on and the automatic driver seat will move back, like the door has been opened. Really freaks you out going 70 miles an hour! Any ideas on what to check or how to fix. It seems to do it mostly when another door or the back hatch has been opened and shut, but not any particular one. And sometimes when you hit a bump in the road.
I sprayed a fair amount of wd40 into the latch , it kinda worked after open and closed few times, the warning was gone but then it came bk on after I open and closed again?
@FordTechMakuloco, Okay, so I got into my 02 explorer driver door, and found two damaged but not broken wires. Taped them up. Now the door sensor works KOEO, but not KOER. The moment after I start it up, it begins acting up as if no repair has been made. Ideas?
Again, really like your videos! Thanks for the info and the education. Tim
Thanks, I have wife's 2013 Edge with this problem, was wondering how to fix it. She hates the warning message and lights being on.
03 f350. my right rear all of the sudden started "working" I've owned it for 4yrs and the right rear never activated the lights and my running boards. now all of the sudden when I turned the ignition on to roll up my front windows last night the dome light stayed on and my right running board would not retract. really strange thing is when I open that RR door the lights go out! with the RR door open the Front right door works normally.
could this be the gem unit? or is it just a strange incident that the light goes out with the door open? California truck no rust or corrosion.
Does this also apply to the current gen Ford Everest?
When I activate the door switch on my 1999 Grand Marquis, there is no movement in the driver door latch. The other three doors show a metal arm moving downwards which I believe activates the door ajar switch. So I believe that the door ajar light on my dash is due to a failure of the latch mechanism in making contact with the door ajar switch. Maybe the door lock actuator?