not sure where you live but you may want to have mustie1 look at the engine as he knows these engines pretty well, or go watch his videos on how to get them working properly and what to look for.
Thanks for sharing. Lovely car with so much potential. I recently put my Austin Atlantic back on the road after many years of storage. Started quite literally at the filler cap and rebuilt or repaired or replaced everything. Fuel tank was good but rusty so acid dipped cleaned and given new internal coating. Fuel pump rebuilt. Carbies rebuilt engine oil system redone. Water pump replaced etc Runs well and 're registered but next job is to remove head and service valves as compression on no. 3 is not correct. It's so rewarding doing the job yourself and you learn lots. Cheers
Hello Hugh! Nice job sir! Sounds like a great car my friend! I love working on them. It's a great way to spent time and relax. Thanks for watching! Stay tuned for the next video! =)
my first car was a 67 bug. I learned all about points, condensors, adjusting valves, Jumping the starter, learning to shift without a clutch, carbonmonoxide poison, heater boxes, radios, stereos, hot wiring, replacing fenders and bumpers for cheap, retread tires keeping your oil full! Loved every year of it. Bought the Idiots guide and felt invincible!!!
>Getting nostalgia for Carbon monoxide poisoning. This was not a healthy automotive relationship and I think what you actually have is stockholm syndrome from a car lol.
Thought I'd posted this comment last night after watching this entire video with my fingers crossed on both hands for you CT - willing the engine to fire up!...eventually, you got this wee beauty running - Congratulations! Man I love the sound of an air-cooled VW engine running - it's music to my ears!
I love the shape of the Karmann Ghia. I think they are smarter and better looking than a porsche. The Karmann has a lot of character in the style. I watched Mustie1 do his red and white one.
I can never understand why folk rotate the distributor back and forth whilst cranking the engine over. The ignition timing needs to be set as task one. This is easy enough if you find the timing marks on the crank pulley. Once that is aligned correctly as per the maintenance manual, you set the contactor points gaps with feeler gauge. Again the gap you need is quoted in the maintenance manual. The heel of the cam in the distributor will push the points open as it travels around. It’s at that stage once the points gap is set that you rotate the distributor against the normal rotation of the distributor so that the points just start to open. You can test when that happens with a multi meter. The meter can be connected between ground and the small cable from the points. That cable needs to come off the coil temporarily whilst you make this measurement via the resistance (continuity) setting on the meter. The setting of the timing using this method will be almost perfect for a VW engine. You will then get spark at the right moment and for the correct duration (dwell angle). The contactor points are renowned furring up on VWs when left for quite some time. Also the wearable heel on the points will wear down and slowly close the gap over time. That’s why these engines needed attention every couple of months to make sure they kept within tuneable limits. The engine would have fired first go if the timing had been set up correctly !.....everything else is “poke and hope” or something copied off another chance it UA-cam video !...
my 1st car was a 62 Ghia..absolutely loved it!! til winter & cold weather...lol.. in 1974 i dropped a valve thru a piston...1 piston & sleeve, 2 new valves (ground the rest) & the shop bill was 4 hrs labour + parts = $125.. do that today!
CT, set your idle screw clockwise to raise the rpm at idle to keep it running, your timing is off set it, your vacuum advance wasn't hooked up, you have a vacuum line on the carb not hooked up, which will make it run rough and idle badly, when checking for spark don't remove any spark plugs, just remove a plug wire from the plug and stick a screw driver in the wire and hold it next to metal with a gap and turn the engine over and see if it sparks a nice strong spark. if no spark, pull the coil wire from the center of the distributer cap and hold it near metal to see if it sparks to check the coil, by listening to the engine, make those adjustments and should be ok.
Yeah, as others have said, an oil flush, change and filter would be a priority, but I heard no reference made to that in the video. I hope it happened. Twisting the distributor back on forth in hopes of finding the correct timing is tempting (I've been there) but ultimately not a good strategy. In CT's defense, it is true that a lot new parts are really bad right out of the box. I was on the phone today with a parts supplier that sold me a courtesy light switch for my old T-Bird that literally worked 10 seconds before breaking. Recommendation for the VW: Flush and change the oil...then change it again after the engine has run about 20 minutes (seriously.)
@@TheCanine2 Correct. Also to add, cars of this era were designed to be rebuilt, meaning that replacement parts are lower quality than factory. Learning how to correctly clean and rebuild these air cooled engines is really the keys to the kingdom. For example those plugs were filthy, but, they did look like new factory units, clean, test, and reinstall. Modern cars now, 80% of the time plugs are burned/worn out so we just replace them. But it's a different era. So these VWs are nearly free if you do it right.
I got a buddy around the corner, retired guy. He buys cars and builds em. He loves VW's. Built some really nice machines in the last 3-4 years.....one of his latest, an S-10 frame, a 350 V-8 and an auto trans. Put a VW body on it, and yeah, the motors up front. Wild little machine, lol.....
Your job is really cool. This carburetor is manufactured here in Brazil. I remembered my childhood. My father had a VW Brasilia. I have helped him to repair his car many times. It is very good. This Karman Ghia deserves a total restoration. True work of art on wheels! A hug!
Interesting watching you go through the troubleshooting for this engine. For future reference, if you ever suspect the condenser again, on any points ignition system. you can simple disconnect the wire from the condenser to see if it fires. Otherwise, the condensers hardly ever shorts out, therefore disabling the system. It's function is to help keep arching down across the points as they open and close. And the whole system works via the voltage from the battery runs through the primary side of the coil to the points. The points being closed allows the build up of a magnetic field in the coil. Then when the points OPEN, it creates the spark in the secondary side of the coil connected to the spark plug. The coil is basically a transformer and increases the voltage to spark the spark plug on the secondary side of the coil. The "dwell time" is that time the points are "closed". Hope that helps a little... Keep the videos coming Thumbs Up!
Aftermarket is always junk , doesn’t matter how much it costs . I’ve found it out the hard way and I now buy nos parts and to be true they are not that more expensive than aftermarket parts here ,some are cheaper some are more expensive
There are people making really great aftermarket parts and there are a lot of them making crapy parts.... =) Stay tuned for the next video! It's going to be awesome!
I hope you get to drive it to the show & give us a walk around of this sweet Ghia . Good to hear your getting the OG parts refurb'd....don't forget to do the valves and oil 👍.
You cannot expect folks to watch a 50 minute video titled. " First Start" with the first 25 minutes being tedious wrenching leading to unexplained failure. Glad you got it to start. Fifty minutes was painful to watch. That video should have 15 minutes max
What else should you expect from someone who knows nothing more than replacing parts whether they need it or not with parts from china where they don't know how to make the parts to function? ..... lol@usforwatchingthatshit...lol
Dear Joel Palmer. I just wanted to comment absolutely the same. He should also use the fast forward mode. But no matter what, watching this was painful (for me and the poor starter motor)! I definitely won't watch another video from this channel (and not only because he gives hearts even to negative comments). If he wants to sell vids via UA-cam he should watch Mustie1, 5150mxVW and Coldwarmotors for instance. They know how to do vids and first starts.
@@Chr.U.Cas1622 please don't direct someone on how to make their videos. I enjoyed watching failures and how he learned from them. It's pretty helpful to some of us.
Dear@@sailorforlifebestti3366 Whaaaat? This video is helpful to you? Are you serious? 2) Why only answering my comment? Why not Joel Palmer and Larry Mayotte ones too? 3) Maybe you are some kind of a close friend to the video maker? How in the world could anybody else like that vid? For what reason? 4) The video maker even gave J.P. a heart. What should someone think about that? If he likes negative response respectively constructive criticism it's not on you to criticize my comment. Best regards luck health and wisdom.
i started a 69 vw motor that was setting 20 years the very first thing i did was pull plugs and put Boat motor 50.1 oil in the cylinders let it set for a day then take a wrench and turn the crank about 10 times slow at first then replace the plugs then made sure i had spark from coil and plugs had to clean points up and i added a light tester to the oil sending unit to insure it had oil pressure if it started u damn sure don't want to run it if the light doesn't go out , I notice u didn't do that also your vacuum advance was not hooked up to your distributor glad u got it running PS i forgot i change the oil first lol
You've got a few factors happening here, that prevented it from starting easily, wrong ignition timing, weak compression due to rusty valve seats, choke not hooked up, but the main culprit is the octane selector (ign advanced) vacuume line between the carburetor and the distributer is not attached, causing the intake manifold to suck atmospheric air and lean out, which in turn will make it difficult to cold start, or idle properly.
Yeah, I was going to say, I know nothing of mechanics, but I've been watching a ton of these videos were people are getting their cars to start, and knew there was something he was missing. He thought it was just the accelerator pump on the carburetor but it was not turning over correctly to begin with, but how would anyone know whether the ignition timing is correct just by turning it slightly? You gotta be right on with that. You can't just start moving it while it's trying to start.
Yes, and tryin to start it from outside the car...with no throtle at all..just flooding the carb with fuel... Lady luck intervened in the end..otherwise that would have been a 2 days long video...
Pretty awesome! I like these long time cold starts! I watch this guy 'Jonathan' who gets old cars, trucks running by; checking; that the motor isn't seized, is there spark, oil in the crankcase, connect a battery and drip fuel into the throat of the carb. Gets them running and assesses the over all condition and work actually needed with out replacing anything to start.
23:28 oil pressure light works, charge light isn't also, Always check tdc against no1 piston being at top dead otherwise your distributor can be 180 deg out, who ever made that battery needs to sponsor your next vid.... It just keeps cranking
That engine bay is every mechanics dream come true. Not only is just about every single part of the engine very easily accessible, there is also acres of wide open room to reach around and work in
Great video and how you have taken us on your journey with all the issues that you have addressed one by one. In my opinion you did nothing wrong as sometimes things don’t go to plan, but in the end you made it work. What makes this video outstanding is your total honest about what you were thinking. I love the sound of this beautiful motor. Thankyou for taking us through this.
oh that was one tough Karmann Ghia! hope you was able to get it to run right and had fun with it! one tip: avoid cranking the starter for too long, with short intervals between attempts, they tend to get really pissed off
As a teenager I owned a couple of Volkswagon type 3s, first was a 1963 notchback and then a 1970 fast back. I was constantly replacing the generators in them. Did multiple tuneups on them. This video took me back a long way.
Why not set the static timing up with a lamp and battery before going through all that nause of trial and error, and the later condensers have a cut out in the mounting bracket that holds the lead insulator - it doesn't get pushed into the casing.
I'll try to be a bit nicer. Before you begin trying to start the engine, check compression, check voltage and ground to the coil/distributor, please don't go power tool crazy on the manifold even if you do have a towel stuffed in there. Make sure you're getting good fuel flow from the pump by using some extra hose back into the fuel canister and visually watching it. Make sure your timing is set just a tad early of TDC. Verifying fuel, air and spark before you get started makes troubleshooting a lot easier.
About 50 years ago I took a liking to a second hand Volkswagen Bettle which I saw for sale and the owner seemed to be all smiles and so happy that I was going to buy it. Some neighbors told me not to buy it as that car was all trouble and it would not start in the morning and when it was hot it was still difficult to handle. Anyway, in spite of their advice, I did buy it and as they said it would not start the next morning. I checked the fuel which was fine and the spark which I did not like and so I followed the ignition circuit to find that all the wiring was just fine. Then I decided to check the height of the distributor rotor to find that it did not match the distributor cap and Volkswagen had made so many distributors for their petrol car that someone mismatched the pair in my car. As I am a boat builder and have copper nails of all sorts at home, I went into my workshop got a large flat-headed copper nail, cut it about 12mm below the flathead and soldered the head and stem above on top of the rotor on the distributing copper flat strip. The car started the first time for the next twelve years. I never told the previous owner nor the neighbors about what I had found. Note the difference between the distributor at 18:25 and the old one at 34:52. Note that I do not agree with this man that the Chinese distributor is a lot of rubbish, it is not and he should question his own diagnostic powers. When I had petrol engines, I was always so keen to see them working that even without a carburetor they still started with a little repetitive squirt at the intake. Starting a big block cold Vee 8 in the old landing barges took a little more than a squirt, and more like a half a glass of neat fuel. At home, I still have the petrol priming pump for the Merlin in a Spitfire.
I was saying that same exact thing, it's getting no fuel! Put the can on the roof, gravity is highly underrated, I'm surprised the battery held out to all that cranking the engine.....
Should've taken the points out of the new dizzy and put them in the old unit, the spark looked shit (did anyone see a spark?). Get it timed properly, throw some fuel down the venturi instead of the overflow tube. Then, since he hasn't a clue what he's doing, get it to someone who does. These must be the hardest videos to watch ever.
You don't need a timing light. It's "static timed." You just need a 12 volt light bulb with wires soldered to it, one wire to ground and the other to where the 12 volt output voltage from the points can be measured, when the points close. There is a mark on the crankshaft pulley indicating 7 deg before TDC. A little cut is made into the pulley. There might be a second cut for 10 deg but the spec is 7. But its not going to move the car unless you have the vacuum diaphragm getting vacuum - i can see it is NOT hooked up. It willl run properly only at idle.
@@INNO222 Oh, OK. Although I would have simply removed secondary cable from the coil, at the distributor cap, and held it about 5 mm away from a ground point and looked at the length and color of the sparks, see how far a distance they will jump. Should make a nice loud "snaping" sound too. Or I might simply pull the 2 points apart to see if that will cause a spark to jump. And listen for a single snap. You might want to use a timing light to see if the vacuum advance is working or not, if the diaphragm inside it is intact and working. If its working you'll see the mark on the crankshaft move as the engine rpm increases. I forget which way the engine turns and therefore which way the mark should move. Although you could also just suck on it with a vacuum pump and see if that causes the points inside the distributor to rotate a little bit. By looking at the crankshaft pulley you won't be able to tell if teh spark is advancing the right amount unless you have degrees marked off on the crankshaft pulley and you are able to get the specs for amount of advance at various rpms. Traditionally we just set the timing with the engine off, and assume that if the diaphragm advance mechanism is advancing the correct amount, if we see that it is advancing at all. If the rubber fuel hoses are shot, and the fuel injection diaphragm in the carb is decomposing due to age, very likely the timing advance diaphragm is also decomposing due to age. Did you check around to see if you can get an electronic distributor? Possibly one where the amount of ignition advance can be adjusted for different models of air-cooled VW engines? Or just to tweak the amount of advance precisely, in order to work well with other tweaks to the engine.
I want to add that I don't remember which direction the crankshaft turns, and I think probably the lamp should go OFF when the crankshaft pulley reaches 7 deg BTDC or 10 degrees or 0 degrees, depending upon the particular distributor and the carburetor it is matched to. But my main point, that WITH a properly operating distributor all you need is a little 12v light bulb, or anything else that will tell you whether you have 12v or not, and that you can time the engine without the engine running. This assumes the vacuum advance and-or centrifugal advance are working correctly. They are not usually adjustable, so either they are advancing the correct amount, or not advancing the correct amount. Now, you COULD check if they are advancing the correct amount with a timing light attached to the secondary - at the distributor wire coming from cyl #1, if I recall correctly. You would need a spec sheet showing the expected increase in advance as the engine RPM increases, a tachometer to measure the rpm (it could be built in to the timing light unit, or separate), and a crankshaft pulley that is marked off in degrees.I can't believe how bad my memory is.
when I strike a sticky spark plug, I tend to slow right down. There's nothing worse than a plug which is too long(carbon blob on the end jamming threads) or a plug which brings the threads out with it. I do have the required thread repair kits but it's a hassle to mess about with .Also,before spending money on a sleeping engine, crank it over without plugs to see if it has oil presssure and enough compression to fire it. missing either of those and it's a waste of time.
Hey CT, I haven’t watched the rest of the video yet, but before I do, I want to tell you why these “1st start in X years” irritate. Primary because they don’t usually point out ALL the pitfalls and preparation that must be done before even attempting such an endeavor. [[by prep, I mean; dump and replace the oil, disconnect ignition and hand turn the engine at least a few revolutions, check and adjust the valves, timing, and dwell, use a know good carb & battery, or service/rebuild the carb, new plugs & wires, cap & rotor, etc. Don’t rev it up until it warmed up and you changed the oil again.]] Failure to present that required prep will lead some, let’s say, not so sharp pencils, to damage an engine that might have had a fighting chance had ALL the prep been done. That said I’m looking forward to seeing A.) if you at least talk about the perp, and B.) if you get her running. Oh, and I love that you get out there & do it. Thanks for sharing it with us. Ok, cool. Awesome job! I think you are the first UA-camr I’ve seen detail the right way to do a “1st start in X years” video. THANK YOU!
i owned a karmann ghia in Limmassol, Cyprus, ( reg. no. AX 789), IN 1967.) somebody had fitted a huge "Purolator" oil filter on the left - hand side of the engine bay. the oil was still green after 1000 miles !! it also had twin carbs although i can,t say if that was standard. i loved that car, painted salmon pink with a white roof. happy days
You remind me of when i was 16 and just learning about engines. It is painful to watch you struggle. Go online and study how to setup timing on a VW. Learn how to tell when no. 1 piston is on compression stroke and the distributor rotor is pointing to no. 1 wire. make sure flywheel mark is top dead center and rotate distributor with ignition on until test lamp you have hooked up to distributor, turns on. tighten up distributor. Start engine with gas pedal floored.
When we kids of 16+ we used pull those beetles out of the bushes and make auto grass cars out of them... I doubt we ever bought a new part and we definitely were never defeated in getting one running.
I use an old steel putty knife for stubborn gaskets. That and something to soften the gasket like penetrating oil. The wider blade of the putty knife helps avoid gouging the surface the gasket has to match up to. I love those lights you are using.
I had two 1300, and one 1600 Super beetle, usually timing is not an issue, but the fuel pump dries fast, since it is a very simple mechanism, so, I'd start there first, and diaphragm for the fuel pump is an easy fix. Turn the engine, fuel squirts out, one less problem. The carburetor of a beetle is so easy to rebuild or clean, that I'd not bother buying a new one. Check the floaters, they will crack if left without fuel too long. Put carburetor back, turn the engine. You can smell a flooded carburetor a mile away, if no smell, then you consider changing it. Take the distributor cap of, use a sand paper to clean ALL the contacts, loose the screws and tight them again, NOT MESSING WITH ANYTHING ELSE! Check for fraying cables, turn them back and forth to get rid of any rust. Take ONE spark plug, the spark should be clearly visible, yes, VERY visible. Got sparks? Don't even bother starting the engine, just change the spark plugs and it should start right up. If it is running rough, check the mix, if no effect, THEN you mess with the timing. Beetles were made to run forever and to be easy to fix, in Brazil, you carry pliers, some copper wire and a clean rag in the trunk, and you can go around the world.
Well done lads, great video. This was the first model that Vauxhall used a new paint which took over from cellulose, I remember because I resprayed the complete front of a white one, two days later it started to bubble up. This was a complete disaster I wish that I had known about the paint change.
HI on your Karmann Chia 67 , do you check the gap on points at 16 mm, n plugs wires order is right to left 1,4,3, 2 n wire from points to ground, try that , n gass with oil in to calb, hope to help
You lack a sensitivity in timing, carb setting-choke and low rpm sounds of a motor that is wrong timing and putting all that fuel in there and flooding it was just terrible. Less fuel and more frequent squirts next time boys. You can tell by the motor sound the timing is not close at first and no gas combined for failure to start. Loved that part telling her that the key would return automatically and to quit keying the started once it fired. Are you any good with Diesel motors? Let me guess?
The thing you hear the first start is the starter, his companion who was comanding the ignition key did not stop the starter once the engine started. That's why when the engine died it started spinning instantly again.
@@christicristian06 Thanks but I am talking about the repeated attempts to start with both people working and the man at the distributor not knowing how to search for the correct timing setting and putting more and more fuel down the throat. If you know flat 4's, you know the sound of a motor that has not gotten the spark timing in the right place. Even an older motor has the same character and sounds as a newer one. It's sound and settings when you have fuel available.
You are missing the vacuum tube between the distributer advance and teh base of the carb. That will help a lot! I enjoyed hearing the 67 engine again! I had a 68 and spent many many hours tinkering, rebuilding, coaxing etc. when I was young. Thanks!
Even though it was painful watching someone who isn’t a traditionally schooled mechanic do a quality control test on a starter lol regardless, I will always respect the man who turns his own wrenches!!
Wow! This classic car was made in the year I was born. Here in Brazil, a Karmann Ghia or SP2 (another VW sport auto, 1700 engine) are very expensive. Some, costing about R$ 100.000,00, even R$ 200.000,00. (One dollar = R$ 5,22 approx.). Congratulations! Have fun with your classic VW air cooled!
@ CT At 48:00 women sit behind the wheel and it Finally start ... She deserve a new dress and shoes so you can take her to a fancy restaurant . And you buddy , you need some basic knowledge so you can properly adjust the carb. Engine sounds perfect . Please , pretty please , don't touch anything else !
Well done CT for getting her running. I was begining to think it was the fuel pump. But, I see it was the timing. Seemed like it was sucking in too much air, as when you put your hand on tha carb, it fired up. All you have to do now is get the timing set good and perhaps adjust the carb settings. I bet it will be a lot better with the original carb on it. One thing I did notice with the new distributor, there was no vacuum unit on it. Did you check the length of the dizzy shaft compared to the original ? She sounded great when running. I hope you are still on track with the van. I would hate to take the pick-up away from you ;) lol. All the best mate. I just wished my passport was up to date and I could afford to come over there and help you with the van and Karmann. :)
Hey Ian! Yes, I'm going to rebuild the original carb, fuel pump and distributor. I just wanted to get it up and running fast. Yes, I have big plans for the van. I wish you could too! That would be awesome! Stay for the next video! It's going to be a good one! =) Thank you!
The port on the carb for the vacuum advance was plugged up. So no vacuum leak, With the actual vaccum diaphragm on the distrib not hooked up, the distrubuter will not advance the spark as the engine rpm increases. Once get the timing right at idle, 800 rpm, when you try to go faster, it won't go. Probably will stall when you give it more throttle.
John Muir’s How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive; A Manual of Step-By-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot. It’s a great book. Still available (first printing 1969); I learned everything I know about wrenching from that book.
Those classic Ghia's are just about the sleekest, coolest, most aerodynamically correct car in the known universe. Good going on your perseverance to get it running! Hey...is it rolling? ?
He's really lucky to have a nice lady that will turn the key for him. When I used to do this I'd be outside with the spiders and she'd be inside watching Casualty and talking to her daughters on the 'phone for hour after hour. And she wondered why I didn't like the car.
As one not being a car owner in a big European city CT‘s Garage has been a very good learning experience and the excitement getting that VW Motor After 45-50 years to work again was awesome. Thankyou very much for the film.
Timing mite be wee bit slow??? Or wee bit fast the way she was cranking at the end of video or starter was getting tired?? Old car seems to be all there!!
This video is a year old but I am an old school mechanic and I've had a few bugs.. You did prime the carburetor but the cylinders were still dry. Until the gas gets into them it won't fire. Eventually out of frustration you did squirt some and get it down the throat.. While at first you were only putting it down the bowl vent. That's fine but you have to get some down the throat for it to fire. That's what the accelerator pump does if you pump the pedal, but the pedal isn't hooked up. But you placed your hand over the intake which allows the engine to draw a lot of gas out the idle jet and even the main jet and then it started. Cold engines need more gas than you might think. Also once you got it firing the next thing would be to get the ignition timing at least ballpark correct. Your guessing is frustrating to watch. Get a timing light on it right away and lock it down. You can actually do a static timing on it without a light but.. kind of complicated. well I hope things got better after that. Remember bugs are sensitive about valve adjustments, that would be the third thing I'd do if you hadn't already done.
I am not a mechanic by profession but i am able to fire up Bimmers that have idled for years.This is a simple engine, all you do is get the engine to turn with plugs out , change the plugs, get a spark on all the plugs and just feed the carb with some fuel before cranking it,if it fails then you feed fuel directly into combustion chamber and it should fire up instantly .once that happens sticking valves would start to move which is a last resort if all other methods fails.To think of it you had a new carb which should have been easier.Even with old carb i could get it to start. Btw that engine sounds good.
ＬＩＫＥ | ＣＯＭＭＥＮＴ | ＳＨＡＲＥ | ＳＵＢＳＣＲＩＢＥ | Press the bell Icon - THANK YOU!!! CT =)
Why dont you just do a Restoration on the Engine?
@@wolfhauzer3178 I will at some point. I just want to see how it runs and see if we can drive it. Stay tuned for more. Thank you! =)
not sure where you live but you may want to have mustie1 look at the engine as he knows these engines pretty well, or go watch his videos on how to get them working properly and what to look for.
Why you keep saying How is it running. ITS NOT RUNNING IN DECADES
@@jacilynns6330 Thanks man! Good idea. Stay tuned for the next video on this one. It's going toe pretty cool. Did you subscribe? THANK YOU! =)
I've worked with VWs for over 50 years and I wanted to get my hands on this car soooo bad. Loved the video.
Glad you liked it!
And by get your hands on it did you mean hook up the throttle cable that was hanging right there
Thanks for sharing. Lovely car with so much potential. I recently put my Austin Atlantic back on the road after many years of storage. Started quite literally at the filler cap and rebuilt or repaired or replaced everything. Fuel tank was good but rusty so acid dipped cleaned and given new internal coating. Fuel pump rebuilt. Carbies rebuilt engine oil system redone. Water pump replaced etc Runs well and 're registered but next job is to remove head and service valves as compression on no. 3 is not correct. It's so rewarding doing the job yourself and you learn lots. Cheers
Hello Hugh! Nice job sir! Sounds like a great car my friend! I love working on them. It's a great way to spent time and relax. Thanks for watching! Stay tuned for the next video! =)
I can't believe I waited almost an hour for this
Thats life... 😅
my first car was a 67 bug. I learned all about points, condensors, adjusting valves, Jumping the starter, learning to shift without a clutch, carbonmonoxide poison, heater boxes, radios, stereos, hot wiring, replacing fenders and bumpers for cheap, retread tires keeping your oil full! Loved every year of it. Bought the Idiots guide and felt invincible!!!
>Getting nostalgia for Carbon monoxide poisoning. This was not a healthy automotive relationship and I think what you actually have is stockholm syndrome from a car lol.
Thought I'd posted this comment last night after watching this entire video with my fingers crossed on both hands for you CT - willing the engine to fire up!...eventually, you got this wee beauty running - Congratulations! Man I love the sound of an air-cooled VW engine running - it's music to my ears!
Yes, it was pretty exciting when it started! I love that sound too! I really appreciate that. Thank you! Stay tuned!
@@CTmoog -Will do!
I love the shape of the Karmann Ghia. I think they are smarter and better looking than a porsche. The Karmann has a lot of character in the style. I watched Mustie1 do his red and white one.
Yes, the Ghia has a beautiful shape... love it
OMG that 48th minutes paid off for the two days of hard work. I was so excited when I saw this girl running
I can never understand why folk rotate the distributor back and forth whilst cranking the engine over. The ignition timing needs to be set as task one. This is easy enough if you find the timing marks on the crank pulley. Once that is aligned correctly as per the maintenance manual, you set the contactor points gaps with feeler gauge. Again the gap you need is quoted in the maintenance manual. The heel of the cam in the distributor will push the points open as it travels around. It’s at that stage once the points gap is set that you rotate the distributor against the normal rotation of the distributor so that the points just start to open. You can test when that happens with a multi meter. The meter can be connected between ground and the small cable from the points. That cable needs to come off the coil temporarily whilst you make this measurement via the resistance (continuity) setting on the meter. The setting of the timing using this method will be almost perfect for a VW engine. You will then get spark at the right moment and for the correct duration (dwell angle). The contactor points are renowned furring up on VWs when left for quite some time. Also the wearable heel on the points will wear down and slowly close the gap over time. That’s why these engines needed attention every couple of months to make sure they kept within tuneable limits. The engine would have fired first go if the timing had been set up correctly !.....everything else is “poke and hope” or something copied off another chance it UA-cam video !...
Correct. This will be fine for any carb and points engine.
@@baggieshorts1406 That's correct!!!
Even better Static time it with a test light.
Canada here...yup this body style, Volvo and Porsche had it nice, enjoy the project and the drive...respect
my 1st car was a 62 Ghia..absolutely loved it!! til winter & cold weather...lol.. in 1974 i dropped a valve thru a piston...1 piston & sleeve, 2 new valves (ground the rest) & the shop bill was 4 hrs labour + parts = $125.. do that today!
CT, set your idle screw clockwise to raise the rpm at idle to keep it running, your timing is off set it, your vacuum advance wasn't hooked up, you have a vacuum line on the carb not hooked up, which will make it run rough and idle badly, when checking for spark don't remove any spark plugs, just remove a plug wire from the plug and stick a screw driver in the wire and hold it next to metal with a gap and turn the engine over and see if it sparks a nice strong spark. if no spark, pull the coil wire from the center of the distributer cap and hold it near metal to see if it sparks to check the coil, by listening to the engine, make those adjustments and should be ok.
Hey Tom! That is some awesome advice man! I will try to remember that next time. Thank you my friend! Thank you! Stay tuned for more!✌️
My deepest condolences go to the poor engine for this mis-treatment!
HAHA! That is funny! =) Thank you! Stay tuned for more!
@@CTmoog Oil change? Air filter? I got cancer from watching this video. This is engine abuse.
who cares its already fuked up,,,
Yeah, as others have said, an oil flush, change and filter would be a priority, but I heard no reference made to that in the video. I hope it happened. Twisting the distributor back on forth in hopes of finding the correct timing is tempting (I've been there) but ultimately not a good strategy. In CT's defense, it is true that a lot new parts are really bad right out of the box. I was on the phone today with a parts supplier that sold me a courtesy light switch for my old T-Bird that literally worked 10 seconds before breaking. Recommendation for the VW: Flush and change the oil...then change it again after the engine has run about 20 minutes (seriously.)
@@TheCanine2 Correct. Also to add, cars of this era were designed to be rebuilt, meaning that replacement parts are lower quality than factory. Learning how to correctly clean and rebuild these air cooled engines is really the keys to the kingdom. For example those plugs were filthy, but, they did look like new factory units, clean, test, and reinstall. Modern cars now, 80% of the time plugs are burned/worn out so we just replace them. But it's a different era. So these VWs are nearly free if you do it right.
For one that ain’t a mechanic, I love your tenacity. You’ll soon become an expert at VW’s. 👌💕👍👍👍
Tomarão uma surra do karmanguia
I got a buddy around the corner, retired guy. He buys cars and builds em. He loves VW's. Built some really nice machines in the last 3-4 years.....one of his latest, an S-10 frame, a 350 V-8 and an auto trans. Put a VW body on it, and yeah, the motors up front. Wild little machine, lol.....
Your job is really cool. This carburetor is manufactured here in Brazil. I remembered my childhood. My father had a VW Brasilia. I have helped him to repair his car many times. It is very good. This Karman Ghia deserves a total restoration. True work of art on wheels! A hug!
Interesting watching you go through the troubleshooting for this engine. For future reference, if you ever suspect the condenser again, on any points ignition system. you can simple disconnect the wire from the condenser to see if it fires. Otherwise, the condensers hardly ever shorts out, therefore disabling the system. It's function is to help keep arching down across the points as they open and close. And the whole system works via the voltage from the battery runs through the primary side of the coil to the points. The points being closed allows the build up of a magnetic field in the coil. Then when the points OPEN, it creates the spark in the secondary side of the coil connected to the spark plug. The coil is basically a transformer and increases the voltage to spark the spark plug on the secondary side of the coil. The "dwell time" is that time the points are "closed". Hope that helps a little... Keep the videos coming Thumbs Up!
Hey Gary, that is good to know and very interesting. Thanks for sharing. I really appreciate that. Thank you! Stay tuned for more!👍
one of the greatest engines ever made! Simple and reliable. Real VOLKSTECHNIK :-)
Aftermarket is always junk , doesn’t matter how much it costs . I’ve found it out the hard way and I now buy nos parts and to be true they are not that more expensive than aftermarket parts here ,some are cheaper some are more expensive
There are people making really great aftermarket parts and there are a lot of them making crapy parts.... =) Stay tuned for the next video! It's going to be awesome!
Finalmente è andata in moto con la pazienza, ciao, io ho lavorato sulla Karman Ghia nel 1960, Grazie
Every teenage kid needs one of these. Looks sporty and spends a lot of time up on cement blocks.
I hope you get to drive it to the show & give us a walk around of this sweet Ghia . Good to hear your getting the OG parts refurb'd....don't forget to do the valves and oil 👍.
Thanks man! Me too! I have two days to get it done. We will see. Not looking good....Yes, I changed the oil. I have to check the valves next.
You cannot expect folks to watch a 50 minute video titled. " First Start" with the first 25 minutes being tedious wrenching leading to unexplained failure. Glad you got it to start. Fifty minutes was painful to watch. That video should have 15 minutes max
What else should you expect from someone who knows nothing more than replacing parts whether they need it or not with parts from china where they don't know how to make the parts to function? ..... lol@usforwatchingthatshit...lol
Dear Joel Palmer.
I just wanted to comment absolutely the same. He should also use the fast forward mode. But no matter what, watching this was painful (for me and the poor starter motor)! I definitely won't watch another video from this channel (and not only because he gives hearts even to negative comments). If he wants to sell vids via UA-cam he should watch Mustie1, 5150mxVW and Coldwarmotors for instance. They know how to do vids and first starts.
@@Chr.U.Cas1622 please don't direct someone on how to make their videos. I enjoyed watching failures and how he learned from them. It's pretty helpful to some of us.
Dear@@sailorforlifebestti3366
Whaaaat? This video is helpful to you? Are you serious?
2) Why only answering my comment? Why not Joel Palmer and Larry Mayotte ones too?
3) Maybe you are some kind of a close friend to the video maker? How in the world could anybody else like that vid? For what reason?
4) The video maker even gave J.P. a heart. What should someone think about that? If he likes negative response respectively constructive criticism it's not on you to criticize my comment.
Best regards luck health and wisdom.
@@Chr.U.Cas1622 I agree. This shit hurts.
Hey, there’s a lot of negative comments. We all start somewhere and learn from mistakes.
not bad engine after 45 years of sleep :) what was amazing is the dash board light flashing . Thanks for sharing the experience.
i started a 69 vw motor that was setting 20 years the very first thing i did was pull plugs and put Boat motor 50.1 oil in the cylinders let it set for a day then take a wrench and turn the crank about 10 times slow at first then replace the plugs then made sure i had spark from coil and plugs had to clean points up and i added a light tester to the oil sending unit to insure it had oil pressure if it started u damn sure don't want to run it if the light doesn't go out , I notice u didn't do that also your vacuum advance was not hooked up to your distributor glad u got it running PS i forgot i change the oil first lol
You've got a few factors happening here, that prevented it from starting easily, wrong ignition timing, weak compression due to rusty valve seats, choke not hooked up, but the main culprit is the octane selector (ign advanced) vacuume line between the carburetor and the distributer is not attached, causing the intake manifold to suck atmospheric air and lean out, which in turn will make it difficult to cold start, or idle properly.
long text Brent ! short version = idiots
Yeah, I was going to say, I know nothing of mechanics, but I've been watching a ton of these videos were people are getting their cars to start, and knew there was something he was missing. He thought it was just the accelerator pump on the carburetor but it was not turning over correctly to begin with, but how would anyone know whether the ignition timing is correct just by turning it slightly? You gotta be right on with that. You can't just start moving it while it's trying to start.
Found the reason it stood still for 45yrs. No body couldn’t get it started!!!
Looking for a spark at the plug with the distributor cap floating in mid air seems - optimistic...
Yes, and tryin to start it from outside the car...with no throtle at all..just flooding the carb with fuel... Lady luck intervened in the end..otherwise that would have been a 2 days long video...
Bluetooth?
Pretty awesome! I like these long time cold starts! I watch this guy 'Jonathan' who gets old cars, trucks running by; checking; that the motor isn't seized, is there spark, oil in the crankcase, connect a battery and drip fuel into the throat of the carb. Gets them running and assesses the over all condition and work actually needed with out replacing anything to start.
23:28 oil pressure light works, charge light isn't also, Always check tdc against no1 piston being at top dead otherwise your distributor can be 180 deg out, who ever made that battery needs to sponsor your next vid.... It just keeps cranking
around 45 min, vac leak base of carby thats supposed to go to vac advance is gonna be upsetting it too hence the no idle
That engine bay is every mechanics dream come true. Not only is just about every single part of the engine very easily accessible, there is also acres of wide open room to reach around and work in
Great video and how you have taken us on your journey with all the issues that you have addressed one by one.
In my opinion you did nothing wrong as sometimes things don’t go to plan, but in the end you made it work.
What makes this video outstanding is your total honest about what you were thinking.
I love the sound of this beautiful motor.
Thankyou for taking us through this.
oh that was one tough Karmann Ghia! hope you was able to get it to run right and had fun with it! one tip: avoid cranking the starter for too long, with short intervals between attempts, they tend to get really pissed off
I would like to know how you think you saw a spark when at the time the distributer cap was off of the destributer?
Spark at the points.
As a teenager I owned a couple of Volkswagon type 3s, first was a 1963 notchback and then a 1970 fast back. I was constantly replacing the generators in them. Did multiple tuneups on them. This video took me back a long way.
Why not set the static timing up with a lamp and battery before going through all that nause of trial and error, and the later condensers have a cut out in the mounting bracket that holds the lead insulator - it doesn't get pushed into the casing.
yes indeed !
For the impatient types, you need to fast forward to around 47:00
I'll try to be a bit nicer. Before you begin trying to start the engine, check compression, check voltage and ground to the coil/distributor, please don't go power tool crazy on the manifold even if you do have a towel stuffed in there. Make sure you're getting good fuel flow from the pump by using some extra hose back into the fuel canister and visually watching it. Make sure your timing is set just a tad early of TDC. Verifying fuel, air and spark before you get started makes troubleshooting a lot easier.
You're too kind; IMHO this guy shouldn't be working on anything with an engine!
Vw junky...
You were nice ... Did not hammer the novice
He I just realised it’s only me making comments cmon people this is a great moment getting this beautiful engine going
About 50 years ago I took a liking to a second hand Volkswagen Bettle which I saw for sale and the owner seemed to be all smiles and so happy that I was going to buy it. Some neighbors told me not to buy it as that car was all trouble and it would not start in the morning and when it was hot it was still difficult to handle. Anyway, in spite of their advice, I did buy it and as they said it would not start the next morning. I checked the fuel which was fine and the spark which I did not like and so I followed the ignition circuit to find that all the wiring was just fine. Then I decided to check the height of the distributor rotor to find that it did not match the distributor cap and Volkswagen had made so many distributors for their petrol car that someone mismatched the pair in my car. As I am a boat builder and have copper nails of all sorts at home, I went into my workshop got a large flat-headed copper nail, cut it about 12mm below the flathead and soldered the head and stem above on top of the rotor on the distributing copper flat strip. The car started the first time for the next twelve years. I never told the previous owner nor the neighbors about what I had found. Note the difference between the distributor at 18:25 and the old one at 34:52. Note that I do not agree with this man that the Chinese distributor is a lot of rubbish, it is not and he should question his own diagnostic powers. When I had petrol engines, I was always so keen to see them working that even without a carburetor they still started with a little repetitive squirt at the intake. Starting a big block cold Vee 8 in the old landing barges took a little more than a squirt, and more like a half a glass of neat fuel. At home, I still have the petrol priming pump for the Merlin in a Spitfire.
That fuel line you have running off to a petrol can, put it on the damn roof of the car and let gravity feed the fuel in then it will work !!!
Its funny! Need to learn more. Just dont quit until you get it right thats one way of learning.
I was saying that same exact thing, it's getting no fuel! Put the can on the roof, gravity is highly underrated, I'm surprised the battery held out to all that cranking the engine.....
I saw that too. Where was the fuel pressure coming from if you bypassed the pump?
Should've taken the points out of the new dizzy and put them in the old unit, the spark looked shit (did anyone see a spark?). Get it timed properly, throw some fuel down the venturi instead of the overflow tube.
Then, since he hasn't a clue what he's doing, get it to someone who does.
These must be the hardest videos to watch ever.
that too
That was pretty cool !! I kept saying I wish I was there to turn to key for you. Please show us the finished product. I love those Karman Gias.
Is there not a vacuum pipe off the carb causing un-metered air thus leaning the mixture?
Yes, I put it back on. It runs much better now. Stay for the next video! It's going to be a good one! =) Thank you!
@@CTmoog There you go I thought no one caught that.
I once owned a 1967 Karmann Ghia, and a 1974 914. Nice to see both in your garage
Awesome! They are a really cool cars. Thanks for watching! Stay tuned!
I’m really digging this series. I had a 7 Gaia and loved it! In early 70’s my brother and I used to restore Porsche 356’s and it was a blast.
Thanks Richard! That really cool!
Since you went back to the vacuum advance distributor, why don't you have the vacuum line going to the carb hooked up?
I forgot to hook it up. It's on now. Thanks for catching that! Stay tuned for the next video! It's going to be awesome! =)
I can't wait for the second part of the engine build!
Me too! Soon hopefully! Thank you! Stay tuned for more!👍
For this project, you should've had a remote starter and a timing light. It would made things easier and quicker to diagnose.
You don't need a timing light. It's "static timed." You just need a 12 volt light bulb with wires soldered to it, one wire to ground and the other to where the 12 volt output voltage from the points can be measured, when the points close. There is a mark on the crankshaft pulley indicating 7 deg before TDC. A little cut is made into the pulley. There might be a second cut for 10 deg but the spec is 7. But its not going to move the car unless you have the vacuum diaphragm getting vacuum - i can see it is NOT hooked up. It willl run properly only at idle.
@@soilmanted I only suggested the timing light to check for spark as he's cranking for any kind of verification that the ignition system is intact.
@@INNO222 Oh, OK. Although I would have simply removed secondary cable from the coil, at the distributor cap, and held it about 5 mm away from a ground point and looked at the length and color of the sparks, see how far a distance they will jump. Should make a nice loud "snaping" sound too. Or I might simply pull the 2 points apart to see if that will cause a spark to jump. And listen for a single snap. You might want to use a timing light to see if the vacuum advance is working or not, if the diaphragm inside it is intact and working. If its working you'll see the mark on the crankshaft move as the engine rpm increases. I forget which way the engine turns and therefore which way the mark should move. Although you could also just suck on it with a vacuum pump and see if that causes the points inside the distributor to rotate a little bit. By looking at the crankshaft pulley you won't be able to tell if teh spark is advancing the right amount unless you have degrees marked off on the crankshaft pulley and you are able to get the specs for amount of advance at various rpms. Traditionally we just set the timing with the engine off, and assume that if the diaphragm advance mechanism is advancing the correct amount, if we see that it is advancing at all. If the rubber fuel hoses are shot, and the fuel injection diaphragm in the carb is decomposing due to age, very likely the timing advance diaphragm is also decomposing due to age. Did you check around to see if you can get an electronic distributor? Possibly one where the amount of ignition advance can be adjusted for different models of air-cooled VW engines? Or just to tweak the amount of advance precisely, in order to work well with other tweaks to the engine.
I want to add that I don't remember which direction the crankshaft turns, and I think probably the lamp should go OFF when the crankshaft pulley reaches 7 deg BTDC or 10 degrees or 0 degrees, depending upon the particular distributor and the carburetor it is matched to. But my main point, that WITH a properly operating distributor all you need is a little 12v light bulb, or anything else that will tell you whether you have 12v or not, and that you can time the engine without the engine running. This assumes the vacuum advance and-or centrifugal advance are working correctly. They are not usually adjustable, so either they are advancing the correct amount, or not advancing the correct amount. Now, you COULD check if they are advancing the correct amount with a timing light attached to the secondary - at the distributor wire coming from cyl #1, if I recall correctly. You would need a spec sheet showing the expected increase in advance as the engine RPM increases, a tachometer to measure the rpm (it could be built in to the timing light unit, or separate), and a crankshaft pulley that is marked off in degrees.I can't believe how bad my memory is.
For this project you should've watched a couple you tube video's first...its cool avery ones doing it!!! Lol
I've been waiting so long for this old man to work and finally win
when I strike a sticky spark plug, I tend to slow right down. There's nothing worse than a plug which is too long(carbon blob on the end jamming threads) or a plug which brings the threads out with it. I do have the required thread repair kits but it's a hassle to mess about with .Also,before spending money on a sleeping engine, crank it over without plugs to see if it has oil presssure and enough compression to fire it. missing either of those and it's a waste of time.
Hey CT, I haven’t watched the rest of the video yet, but before I do, I want to tell you why these “1st start in X years” irritate.
Primary because they don’t usually point out ALL the pitfalls and preparation that must be done before even attempting such an endeavor. [[by prep, I mean; dump and replace the oil, disconnect ignition and hand turn the engine at least a few revolutions, check and adjust the valves, timing, and dwell, use a know good carb & battery, or service/rebuild the carb, new plugs & wires, cap & rotor, etc. Don’t rev it up until it warmed up and you changed the oil again.]]
Failure to present that required prep will lead some, let’s say, not so sharp pencils, to damage an engine that might have had a fighting chance had ALL the prep been done. That said I’m looking forward to seeing A.) if you at least talk about the perp, and B.) if you get her running.
Oh, and I love that you get out there & do it. Thanks for sharing it with us.
Ok, cool. Awesome job! I think you are the first UA-camr I’ve seen detail the right way to do a “1st start in X years” video. THANK YOU!
Karmann-Ghia is one of the most beautiful cars, I think, right!
i owned a karmann ghia in Limmassol, Cyprus, ( reg. no. AX 789), IN 1967.) somebody had fitted a huge "Purolator" oil filter on the left - hand side of the engine bay. the oil was still green after 1000 miles !! it also had twin carbs although i can,t say if that was standard. i loved that car, painted salmon pink with a white roof. happy days
The dawning of the FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM LOL. Great video guys, keep it up.
Oh mein Gott!!! Keine Ahnung die Jungs!☺I've never seen anything like it. Completely flawless approach.
Solch eine Tortur hält auch nur der gute alte Käfermotor aus....
You remind me of when i was 16 and just learning about engines. It is painful to watch you struggle. Go online and study how to setup timing on a VW. Learn how to tell when no. 1 piston is on compression stroke and the distributor rotor is pointing to no. 1 wire. make sure flywheel mark is top dead center and rotate distributor with ignition on until test lamp you have hooked up to distributor, turns on. tighten up distributor. Start engine with gas pedal floored.
JackSquat54
Old school
Such a beautiful design , congrats on getting it started!
It was nice to see the old car come to life but there's 50 minutes of my life I'll never get back
I was always fascinated by those engines. Air cooled, simple, small.
Just pray there's no long hill coming up.
"Adjusting the timing" by arbitrarily rotating the distributor was probably my favorite part.
yes yes yes yes four yessss 4 stroke :-)
and not cheking poits!@@ollifisher
@@rogerroger7555 what do you wanna tell me Lee`??? I cannot understand your last sentence
@@ollifisher sorry "points"
2666
When we kids of 16+ we used pull those beetles out of the bushes and make auto grass cars out of them... I doubt we ever bought a new part and we definitely were never defeated in getting one running.
More fuel the punp is defekt
Ahhh. The sound of an aircooled engine, is music to me. 💖💨✨
Yes, they sound great! Stay tuned for the next video! It's going to be awesome! =)
I use an old steel putty knife for stubborn gaskets. That and something to soften the gasket like penetrating oil. The wider blade of the putty knife helps avoid gouging the surface the gasket has to match up to. I love those lights you are using.
I had two 1300, and one 1600 Super beetle, usually timing is not an issue, but the fuel pump dries fast, since it is a very simple mechanism, so, I'd start there first, and diaphragm for the fuel pump is an easy fix. Turn the engine, fuel squirts out, one less problem. The carburetor of a beetle is so easy to rebuild or clean, that I'd not bother buying a new one. Check the floaters, they will crack if left without fuel too long. Put carburetor back, turn the engine. You can smell a flooded carburetor a mile away, if no smell, then you consider changing it. Take the distributor cap of, use a sand paper to clean ALL the contacts, loose the screws and tight them again, NOT MESSING WITH ANYTHING ELSE! Check for fraying cables, turn them back and forth to get rid of any rust. Take ONE spark plug, the spark should be clearly visible, yes, VERY visible. Got sparks? Don't even bother starting the engine, just change the spark plugs and it should start right up. If it is running rough, check the mix, if no effect, THEN you mess with the timing. Beetles were made to run forever and to be easy to fix, in Brazil, you carry pliers, some copper wire and a clean rag in the trunk, and you can go around the world.
Trocou tudo menos a bomba de combustível?
Yes, we need to restore the fuel pump too. I'm going to restore all the original parts. Thank you! Stay tuned for more!👍
Mustie1 would have had that running in 20 seconds, by just looking sternly at it! ;-)
Faltou gasolina direto no carburador na primeira partida importante que funcionou obrigado pelo video
Well done lads, great video. This was the first model that Vauxhall used a new paint which took over from cellulose, I remember because I resprayed the complete front of a white one, two days later it started to bubble up. This was a complete disaster I wish that I had known about the paint change.
HI on your Karmann Chia 67 , do you check the gap on points at 16 mm, n plugs wires order is right to left 1,4,3, 2 n wire from points to ground, try that , n gass with oil in to calb, hope to help
Ouch, painful but then I was a VW tech in the early 70's
Take it to a mechanic, i cried for your starter.
The starter is 52 years old...It had a good life! =) Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
@@CTmoog Somehow i knew you had a sense of humor, thanks, will be watching.
You lack a sensitivity in timing, carb setting-choke and low rpm sounds of a motor that is wrong timing and putting all that fuel in there and flooding it was just terrible. Less fuel and more frequent squirts next time boys. You can tell by the motor sound the timing is not close at first and no gas combined for failure to start. Loved that part telling her that the key would
return automatically and to quit keying the started once it fired. Are you any good with Diesel motors? Let me guess?
The thing you hear the first start is the starter, his companion who was comanding the ignition key did not stop the starter once the engine started. That's why when the engine died it started spinning instantly again.
@@christicristian06 Thanks but I am talking about the repeated attempts to start with both people working and the man at the distributor not knowing how to search for the correct timing setting and putting more and more fuel down the throat. If you know flat 4's, you know the sound of a motor that has not gotten the spark timing in the right place. Even an older motor has the same character and sounds as a newer one. It's sound and settings when you have fuel available.
You are missing the vacuum tube between the distributer advance and teh base of the carb. That will help a lot! I enjoyed hearing the 67 engine again! I had a 68 and spent many many hours tinkering, rebuilding, coaxing etc. when I was young.
Thanks!
Even though it was painful watching someone who isn’t a traditionally schooled mechanic do a quality control test on a starter lol regardless, I will always respect the man who turns his own wrenches!!
Hes clearly no expert but hes having a go and no doubt learning
Gracias a la persistencia lo lograron, excelente. Hubiera querido estar allá para ayudarles.
Brazilian made Solex ;-) Hell yeah brother
This is painful to watch...
hatfez , it burns.
What the fuck did I just watch,,???
Ok.... this is way to exhausting...
I knew a "chuck wagon" in Colorado...
One guy in particular has got no diagnostics clue or process in place
Wow! This classic car was made in the year I was born. Here in Brazil, a Karmann Ghia or SP2 (another VW sport auto, 1700 engine) are very expensive. Some, costing about R$ 100.000,00, even R$ 200.000,00. (One dollar = R$ 5,22 approx.). Congratulations! Have fun with your classic VW air cooled!
The simplicity of German engineering and at the same time brilliant too, klasse👌
I see there are a lot of negative comments here, please ignore them, they are Jealous that they can’t make anything close to this !
your a jerk
Well your no MUSTIE 1 that's for sure.... have a word with him on line he will help you guys out a lot!!
All it needed was a can of " Start ya bastard"!
@ CT At 48:00 women sit behind the wheel and it Finally start ... She deserve a new dress and shoes so you can take her to a fancy restaurant . And you buddy , you need some basic knowledge so you can properly adjust the carb. Engine sounds perfect . Please , pretty please , don't touch anything else !
She is pretty awesome! I will make sure she gets something nice! =) Thank you! Stay tuned!
NAO SEI PORQUE PARARAM DE FABRICAR ESTE LINDO CARRO BRASIL ,,,,,,
Well done CT for getting her running. I was begining to think it was the fuel pump. But, I see it was the timing. Seemed like it was sucking in too much air, as when you put your hand on tha carb, it fired up. All you have to do now is get the timing set good and perhaps adjust the carb settings. I bet it will be a lot better with the original carb on it.
One thing I did notice with the new distributor, there was no vacuum unit on it. Did you check the length of the dizzy shaft compared to the original ?
She sounded great when running.
I hope you are still on track with the van. I would hate to take the pick-up away from you ;) lol. All the best mate.
I just wished my passport was up to date and I could afford to come over there and help you with the van and Karmann. :)
Hey Ian! Yes, I'm going to rebuild the original carb, fuel pump and distributor. I just wanted to get it up and running fast. Yes, I have big plans for the van. I wish you could too! That would be awesome! Stay for the next video! It's going to be a good one! =) Thank you!
born a year after amazing. cars do run forever.
noticed the vacuum advance is not hooked up, thus causing a vacuum leak
The port on the carb for the vacuum advance was plugged up. So no vacuum leak, With the actual vaccum diaphragm on the distrib not hooked up, the distrubuter will not advance the spark as the engine rpm increases. Once get the timing right at idle, 800 rpm, when you try to go faster, it won't go. Probably will stall when you give it more throttle.
He needs the "How To Keep Your Volkswagen Alive" book. Served me pretty well.
I have one now. That is a great book for VW repair. Thank you!
John Muir’s How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive; A Manual of Step-By-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot. It’s a great book. Still available (first printing 1969); I learned everything I know about wrenching from that book.
Those classic Ghia's are just about the sleekest, coolest, most aerodynamically correct car in the known universe. Good going on your perseverance to get it running! Hey...is it rolling? ?
He's really lucky to have a nice lady that will turn the key for him.
When I used to do this I'd be outside with the spiders and she'd be inside watching Casualty and talking to her daughters on the 'phone for hour after hour.
And she wondered why I didn't like the car.
Go to the hell u skru cow n bafolu use condom at farm
Your'e so right man (y)
What’s the song that starts playing at 49:22 and great video as always!
It's called motocross! It's free with iMovie. Thank you! Stay tuned for more!👍
Skip to 48:16 thank me later.
Thanks bro.. yeah that's what we wanted to see.
As one not being a car owner in a big European city CT‘s Garage has been a very good learning experience and the excitement getting that VW Motor After 45-50 years to work again was awesome. Thankyou very much for the film.
Thanks John! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Will you check wheels bearings and differential for oil?
You need to invest in a remote starter switch.
Hey Barry, that is a great idea. I will order one this week. Thank you! Stay tuned for more!✌️
And a Haynes workshop manual would be a help.
Timing mite be wee bit slow??? Or wee bit fast the way she was cranking at the end of video or starter was getting tired?? Old car seems to be all there!!
Might want to watch some Mustie1 videos for expert guidance on getting a VW engine running perfectly
Just don't expect a reply from HIM. He won't unless you really piss him off. He lets other commenters reply.
This video is a year old but I am an old school mechanic and I've had a few bugs.. You did prime the carburetor but the cylinders were still dry. Until the gas gets into them it won't fire. Eventually out of frustration you did squirt some and get it down the throat.. While at first you were only putting it down the bowl vent. That's fine but you have to get some down the throat for it to fire. That's what the accelerator pump does if you pump the pedal, but the pedal isn't hooked up. But you placed your hand over the intake which allows the engine to draw a lot of gas out the idle jet and even the main jet and then it started. Cold engines need more gas than you might think. Also once you got it firing the next thing would be to get the ignition timing at least ballpark correct. Your guessing is frustrating to watch. Get a timing light on it right away and lock it down. You can actually do a static timing on it without a light but.. kind of complicated. well I hope things got better after that. Remember bugs are sensitive about valve adjustments, that would be the third thing I'd do if you hadn't already done.
I am not a mechanic by profession but i am able to fire up Bimmers that have idled for years.This is a simple engine, all you do is get the engine to turn with plugs out , change the plugs, get a spark on all the plugs and just feed the carb with some fuel before cranking it,if it fails then you feed fuel directly into combustion chamber and it should fire up instantly .once that happens sticking valves would start to move which is a last resort if all other methods fails.To think of it you had a new carb which should have been easier.Even with old carb i could get it to start. Btw that engine sounds good.