I think your "foreign object" was the plastic cover which fits over the positive battery cable connection on the battery under the rear seat. It protects the battery from shorting out on the springs of the rear seat. I'm not an expert, but owned a '71 bug "back in the day."
We need to build you a motor that you can drive on the interstate and out to the farm. We will need some more modern parts but that motor will make a nice art project .And you were getting your hands dirty and there’s no better way to learn about an engine and appreciate the cost of a rebuild and what goes into it keep up the good work
Endplay is definitely a sign of what’s going on inside. Try to save as many original components as possible; as you did with Rusty, including crank, pistons, cylinders, cam and lifters provided they’re within spec. Maybe a cleanup and change of bearings, rings and cylinder honing can do the trick depending in condition, same with the engine case. You might have to line bore the case; and definitely re-do the heads, focusing on the condition of guides, springs and exhaust valves. Most aftermarket parts don’t even get close to OEM quality. You do have the thermostat vane system; all you need is the rod, thermostat and bracket. I’d get them and put them back if I were you. Maybe Darrin has some in his stack of parts? You are absolutely right about the oil stand deflector plate; it’s missing but your new seal kit has it. Great thing that you have the blaster; you will make all those parts look like new.
You are a brave man using you wife's bowl to change the oil, how fast do you run? I have worked on a lot of trucks like the dragon, but here you are the teacher. It's kind of like a motorcycle motor. I like that you show what you find and share what your thinking.
just put some welds on that stud. mound them up and use them to unscrew it. should come out. When you were beating on that I was YELLING PULL THE OIL PUMP OUT....
Arrancou o prisioneiro na pancada kkkkkk, tentando abrir a carcaça sem tirar a bomba o cara é bruto mesmo... Vai ficar show, apesar que precisar fazer vários reparos pelo modo de abertura adotado kkkkk boa sorte.
28:30 that cam was fit to that case and crank gear, from a selection of 10 different cams. The gears are hobbed, +5 to -5.......(and marked in tiny writing on the edge of the front of the gear)....and some one took the time to mate those so the engine would last a long time and not make noise. Now...that being said. The Chinese blister pack Empi cam and gears were not. So...... If you use this case, use the cam or find one the same number and the crank gear. Or... You can buy one of those straight cut empi jobs.....cause the whirring noise is cool man! 😀😀😀
The oil cooler blocks the air flow to the number 3 cylinder. Later models of the VW engine corrected that flaw when they redesign the oil cooler and it placement and the cooling fan shroud.
I'm an OLD shadetree mechanic turned aircraft mechanic late in life. Cleaning the bulk of the goop off of the engine before disassembly might have been a good idea.
C-weeT❗️ What a GREAT, RELAXING video. Can’t wait to watch you clean that old engine up and rebuild it👍 Another option to repainting the engine might be to powder coat it😳 CT, you shore do have some great friends AND a GREAT wife to support you in these projects ❗️ You be sure to keep her happy, she’s a KEEPER ‼️ (I still think you oughta restore the KG for her) 😊 Stay safe, you and youn’n👍
Nice one CT, congratulations on stripping down the engine. You have gone from an apprentice to black belt. You seem to to make that look effortless. Hope you cleaned all that black gold of the floor before the misses got home lols
Darrin don't look at the 26:15 min ... very good job congratulations and good luck with the new project, I have been following your channel since very recently and I have been a vw lover since I bought my first car which was a vw polo 86c 2f .. Congratulations!!
If I recall, the '67's still have 6 volt electrics. Suggest replacing the generator and battery for 12volt. Also, a big bugaboo on older VW's, particularly buses, was overheating of #3 cylinder, caused by the oil cooling tower in the way of cooling air. Suggest replacing it with an aftermarket oil cooler that mounts in the rear of the fan housing and frees up #3 to get properly cooled. I think if I recall there are even systems that allow for a spin-on oil filter to be installed.
Is that the original engine? For a 67 it should be an HO number, I think. If it is, I hope the case can be thrust cut and line bored. I got lucky with my 69 and just was able to get away with the machine shop work. I hope you can save it.....it’s very rare to find an original case in a VW Also....if you have the case machined, have them install case saver inserts for the cylinder studs. Great job! 😀😀😀
Well you just made my day the case needs line boring you can get over size bearings you kept hitting that case to open it but forgot to take out the oil pump.
Loved watching your strip down can't wait to see you build it up again, I don't know how you know where all the stuff goes putting it back together, goodluck👍👍👍
hi CT, this video reminds us that when we start a job that, we know from experience, will be long, difficult and expensive it is only our great passion and the desire to learn to guide us👍😂
man that was one greasy piggy. i like all the projects...keeps things interesting....don't know many car guys who don't have multiple projects going same time. esp like all the air cooled stuff, as i'm not as familiar. makes sense on getting the ghia going first...besides ghia's are awesome.
That's how they do! If you go into the block, you take the rod caps off and pull the pistons and jugs out together. You have to split the engine in half.
I know one thing you are good at tearing things apart. That motor needs a lot of work. I hope Darrin help you put back together. Keep up the good work.👍
You're right: someone DEFINITELY has been inside that engine but it wasn't to rebuild it. They tinkered with it and from the signs/damage they left, they should've never been in there in the first place. I think there were more MISSING screws/bolts than there were ones left holding it together. YIKES!
When I see that sludge on the filter cover I wonder if I spoil my motors to much. I can’t understand why people abuse machines so much. Love your channel!
Your wife has already seen this video. You might want to consider buying a new bowl. The endplay on that poor thing was terrible. Either the bottom end is stock and high mileage and was terribly maintained (the loose head bolt leans me to believe it's a maintenance issue) or whoever rebuilt it didn't set up the crank properly. Looking at those main bearings I would say high mileage. At least the oil leaks helped with removing the bolts holding it together. Those adjustable pushrod tubes were common back in the day but they're junk in my opinion and are well known for leaking oil. I wouldn't give them a second look as I toss them into the trash can.
The adjustable pushrod tubes are a relatively modern thing (80's I think). If your stock tubes are leaking you pull the rockers and the pushrod, crush and twist off the old tube and fit an adjustable one. Some people hate them but I like the CSP adjustable ones with twin o-rings as they have never leaked for me. Hopefully that rear main bearing saddle is not too far gone.
I cant get over how you are able to get the bolts and screws out without heat or just breaking them. When ever I had the occasion of working on one of these engine it was always A nightmare of stripped screws ,rounded nuts and broken studs.
the adjustablep pushrod tubes might have allowed for replacement of them without having to tear down the engine to put them in. Possibly a couple of the original tubes might have sprung leaks or sustained damage somehow.
Hi. Here at Basil, there are reconditioned engines, the air-cooled ones recondition the heads. take the measurements from the crankshaft, but piston and shirts are better by standart. these rings behind the wheel are for taking the game off the crankshaft, but this is not the right way. look at this link for a reconditioning of a vw engine here in Brazil.
Once you get endplay like that on a mag case it will almost certajnly need align boring. It might also have ovalled the bearing dowels that stop the bearings from rotating in the case. That engine has seen some miles amd neglect. There is also a tool called a case splitter that fits in the oil pump opening that will safely split a case and stop you having to break stuff on it!
Excellent work but so messy, I'm sure a local supermarket would have provided cardboxes as temporary storage bins. A good power wash before the strip may have helped to reduce the exterior oily grime on the garage floor. I'm so disappointed watching the bolt being sheared off with the hammer - but sh*t happens when one isn't watching when using the hammer. Good work but very untidy!
"It took about 3 hours or so. Could have done it faster without filming..." But it should have taken longer bagging and labeling everything as soon as you take it off. You REALLY need to get more organized. It is impossible to remember which part came from where especially when parts got replaced by non-spec spares.You'll have good use for your partswasher and sandblaster.
Adjustable pushrod tubes does not mean engine was rebuilt. It means that the original tubes were rusted through and leaking, and needed to be replaced without taking off the cylinder heads. Adjustble tubes probably came out in the 50's.
I really enjoyed the use of the hammer to remove the oil pump
Your neighbors must love you.
I think your "foreign object" was the plastic cover which fits over the positive battery cable connection on the battery under the rear seat. It protects the battery from shorting out on the springs of the rear seat. I'm not an expert, but owned a '71 bug "back in the day."
Obrigado por compartilhar conosco seu conhecimento meu amigo
beautiful dog, I love " Baby " thanks for the close up
Great job. I would toss the adjustable pushrod tubes. They always leak. The plastic piece you found seems to be a battery post cover.
Darren is teaching you a lot. You have come a long way. Where to go keep it up. videos are getting better day by day
Thanks Tim!
We need to build you a motor that you can drive on the interstate and out to the farm. We will need some more modern parts but that motor will make a nice art project .And you were getting your hands dirty and there’s no better way to learn about an engine and appreciate the cost of a rebuild and what goes into it keep up the good work
It' gone this motor
Thanks brother!
Think Subaru. Fastest Ghia ever
Endplay is definitely a sign of what’s going on inside. Try to save as many original components as possible; as you did with Rusty, including crank, pistons, cylinders, cam and lifters provided they’re within spec. Maybe a cleanup and change of bearings, rings and cylinder honing can do the trick depending in condition, same with the engine case. You might have to line bore the case; and definitely re-do the heads, focusing on the condition of guides, springs and exhaust valves. Most aftermarket parts don’t even get close to OEM quality.
You do have the thermostat vane system; all you need is the rod, thermostat and bracket. I’d get them and put them back if I were you. Maybe Darrin has some in his stack of parts?
You are absolutely right about the oil stand deflector plate; it’s missing but your new seal kit has it.
Great thing that you have the blaster; you will make all those parts look like new.
Wow what a mess . great job putting videos out CT I enjoy everyone thanks
Great video of a Volkswagen engine
Thanks 👍
That is what I figured. the end play was just like I thought.
That’s going to be iffy......it might be too far gone. I was able...lucky to have my original case cut and bored......just barely.
You are a brave man using you wife's bowl to change the oil, how fast do you run? I have worked on a lot of trucks like the dragon, but here you are the teacher. It's kind of like a motorcycle motor. I like that you show what you find and share what your thinking.
He could have used the red helmet in stead...
just put some welds on that stud. mound them up and use them to unscrew it. should come out. When you were beating on that I was YELLING PULL THE OIL PUMP OUT....
I'm surprised he didn't hear us. I was yelling it too.
I thought I was watching Dirty Jobs. Keep up the good work!
Yes it was pretty dirty! Thank you! =)
Thank you. The last video I watched on this the guy went so fast, even on slow playback speed I didn’t learn anything.
My hat's off to you o' brave knight!
Thanks Bruce!
nice job on the tear down minus showing the case stud who #2 works for 😜
Thanks man!
You were exactly right about those extensions robbing your torque, I saw that right away.
Your lucky on those manifold bolts! They usually break off!
Wow that was awesome 👌
Thank you 🙏 very impressed!!!
Arrancou o prisioneiro na pancada kkkkkk, tentando abrir a carcaça sem tirar a bomba o cara é bruto mesmo... Vai ficar show, apesar que precisar fazer vários reparos pelo modo de abertura adotado kkkkk boa sorte.
24:40 check end play with flywheel & shims ON, not after taking them off
Finally something you know how to work on
Looks like another complete rebuild of the drive train, brakes, tires, sending units, gages, wiring,
Etcetera... fun stuff.
28:30 that cam was fit to that case and crank gear, from a selection of 10 different cams. The gears are hobbed, +5 to -5.......(and marked in tiny writing on the edge of the front of the gear)....and some one took the time to mate those so the engine would last a long time and not make noise.
Now...that being said.
The Chinese blister pack Empi cam and gears were not.
So......
If you use this case, use the cam or find one the same number and the crank gear.
Or...
You can buy one of those straight cut empi jobs.....cause the whirring noise is cool man!
😀😀😀
Lets hope CT, doesn't forget that tip.
@@vintage76vipergreenBeetle ha ha ha....I tried to plug empi...but failed
@@OkFixer
😆
Good work CT! Looking forward to the video of putting it back together!
Thanks Graem!
very cool Video, looking forward to the next steps,
Thanks Justin!
Good job.
The oil cooler blocks the air flow to the number 3 cylinder. Later models of the VW engine corrected that flaw when they redesign the oil cooler and it placement and the cooling fan shroud.
Nice to follow you from Sweden when you working whit VW !
Good work
I'm an OLD shadetree mechanic turned aircraft mechanic late in life. Cleaning the bulk of the goop off of the engine before disassembly might have been a good idea.
Amazing video can’t wait for the restoration process
Thanks Daniel!
C-weeT❗️ What a GREAT, RELAXING video. Can’t wait to watch you clean that old engine up and rebuild it👍 Another option to repainting the engine might be to powder coat it😳 CT, you shore do have some great friends AND a GREAT wife to support you in these projects ❗️ You be sure to keep her happy, she’s a KEEPER ‼️ (I still think you oughta restore the KG for her) 😊 Stay safe, you and youn’n👍
Awesome Job CT!! 🎸🥇🎸
Thank you! =)
Nice one CT, congratulations on stripping down the engine. You have gone from an apprentice to black belt. You seem to to make that look effortless. Hope you cleaned all that black gold of the floor before the misses got home lols
Thanks Jamie! Yes, I'm getting better at making a mess! =)
Darrin don't look at the 26:15 min ... very good job congratulations and good luck with the new project, I have been following your channel since very recently and I have been a vw lover since I bought my first car which was a vw polo 86c 2f .. Congratulations!!
DEUS SEJA SEMPRE LOUVADO E GLORIFICADO....
If I recall, the '67's still have 6 volt electrics. Suggest replacing the generator and battery for 12volt. Also, a big bugaboo on older VW's, particularly buses, was overheating of #3 cylinder, caused by the oil cooling tower in the way of cooling air. Suggest replacing it with an aftermarket oil cooler that mounts in the rear of the fan housing and frees up #3 to get properly cooled. I think if I recall there are even systems that allow for a spin-on oil filter to be installed.
Boa noite parabéns pelo trabalho já fiz muito esse trabalho...eu mesmo fazia o motor da kombi...fusca...Abraço amigao
Lots of parts. Great project! Ron
Thanks 👍
“Let’s clean it up before the wife sees” 😂😂
Great video man! The cuts, the angles and shots, editing is great and awesome content! Subbed 🔥
Thanks man!
Is that the original engine? For a 67 it should be an HO number, I think.
If it is, I hope the case can be thrust cut and line bored.
I got lucky with my 69 and just was able to get away with the machine shop work.
I hope you can save it.....it’s very rare to find an original case in a VW
Also....if you have the case machined, have them install case saver inserts for the cylinder studs.
Great job! 😀😀😀
Well you just made my day the case needs line boring you can get over size bearings you kept hitting that case to open it but forgot to take out the oil pump.
Loved watching your strip down can't wait to see you build it up again, I don't know how you know where all the stuff goes putting it back together, goodluck👍👍👍
Hi ct great video my friend.
Thanks Donald!
hi CT, this video reminds us that when we start a job that, we know from experience, will be long, difficult and expensive it is only our great passion and the desire to learn to guide us👍😂
HAHA! =)
Excellent video CT :) and you have motor fix up soon!
That's the plan! Thanks Andrew!
Man get a case splitter. Worth it not to break other things. Aka that stud.
Good idea Matt! I'll pick up one soon. Thank you! =)
The extensions allow a lot of flexing. They are basically twisting, and very little is actually getting to the nut
Nice love all the videos
Those shields form the heat exchanger system for your heater, but they make more places for oil, grease, dirt to hide!
So cool
Oh, noes! That's dat Alien Oil from the X-files! Runnnnnnnnnnn!
Lichen the Björk song ~ "peel off the layers until we get to the core..."
HAHA! =)
Well done CT !! I’m just starting stripping one of my big engines !! Keep the original parts and do away with adjustable push rods 👍
Thanks dude!
man that was one greasy piggy. i like all the projects...keeps things interesting....don't know many car guys who don't have multiple projects going same time. esp like all the air cooled stuff, as i'm not as familiar. makes sense on getting the ghia going first...besides ghia's are awesome.
That's how they do! If you go into the block, you take the rod caps off and pull the pistons and jugs out together. You have to split the engine in half.
I know one thing you are good at tearing things apart. That motor needs a lot of work. I hope Darrin help you put back together. Keep up the good work.👍
Brazil ❤️🇧🇷
That top gizmo is definitely new because I think not long ago someone had that put in. Is UA-cam showing all parts of this restoration?
You're right: someone DEFINITELY has been inside that engine but it wasn't to rebuild it. They tinkered with it and from the signs/damage they left, they should've never been in there in the first place.
I think there were more MISSING screws/bolts than there were ones left holding it together. YIKES!
I have that exact same red full face helmet sitting back there on that toolbox......
Awesome! Mine is missing the face shield.
Great video😃
Thanks 😁
21:30 loosing torque in the extensions, they act like torsion springs, use a breaker bar instead.
Yes......18:18......you can just make out HO212661 I think. That’s the correct 1 year only case for this car.
Yes, I think you are correct!
When I see that sludge on the filter cover I wonder if I spoil my motors to much. I can’t understand why people abuse machines so much. Love your channel!
Thanks man! I know...it's sad how some people treat their engines.
I s tu I’ll can’t figure out why not pressure wash it BEFORE disassemble it. Specially if you do it in your house garage.
Your wife has already seen this video. You might want to consider buying a new bowl.
The endplay on that poor thing was terrible. Either the bottom end is stock and high mileage and was terribly maintained (the loose head bolt leans me to believe it's a maintenance issue) or whoever rebuilt it didn't set up the crank properly. Looking at those main bearings I would say high mileage. At least the oil leaks helped with removing the bolts holding it together. Those adjustable pushrod tubes were common back in the day but they're junk in my opinion and are well known for leaking oil. I wouldn't give them a second look as I toss them into the trash can.
until i watch this video i did not know the engine split in half.. seen everything else about them..thanks
Yes, it's pretty cool how they split like that. Thank you!
when you speed up the rubber mallet reminds me of Benny Hill slapping that little bald guy's head !
The adjustable pushrod tubes are a relatively modern thing (80's I think).
If your stock tubes are leaking you pull the rockers and the pushrod, crush and twist off the old tube and fit an adjustable one.
Some people hate them but I like the CSP adjustable ones with twin o-rings as they have never leaked for me.
Hopefully that rear main bearing saddle is not too far gone.
Interesting. Someone said they remember an ad for them in a mag from 1977....could be a mid to late 70's thing?
@@CTmoog I remember seeing them in the late 80's in the UK but it does sound like something Gene Berg would develop or sell.
Let's get this pan cleaned out before the wife see's it. 😟
I cant get over how you are able to get the bolts and screws out without heat or just breaking them. When ever I had the occasion of working on one of these engine it was always A nightmare of stripped screws ,rounded nuts and broken studs.
must be all that oil leaking out on the bolts! =)
Original equipment!
Unglaublich, was für ein Aufwand an Teilen und Konstruktion damals noch für 40 PS betrieben wurde ....heute wohl nicht mehr bezahlbar...
the adjustablep pushrod tubes might have allowed for replacement of them without having to tear down the engine to put them in. Possibly a couple of the original tubes might have sprung leaks or sustained damage somehow.
As far as the camshaft movement I'm pretty sure there's shims on the flywheel
tip ..always start off with the power washer,but not in the kitchen !!!!
最高です
Hi.
Here at Basil, there are reconditioned engines, the air-cooled ones recondition the heads. take the measurements from the crankshaft, but piston and shirts are better by standart. these rings behind the wheel are for taking the game off the crankshaft, but this is not the right way.
look at this link for a reconditioning of a vw engine here in Brazil.
Thank you! =)
13:53 "You seen those before guys"? (yeah, in a 1977 J.C. Whitney catalog)
Really? awesome!
Once you get endplay like that on a mag case it will almost certajnly need align boring. It might also have ovalled the bearing dowels that stop the bearings from rotating in the case.
That engine has seen some miles amd neglect.
There is also a tool called a case splitter that fits in the oil pump opening that will safely split a case and stop you having to break stuff on it!
Good info Mike! I will pickup one of the splitters.
Excellent work but so messy, I'm sure a local supermarket would have provided cardboxes as temporary storage bins. A good power wash before the strip may have helped to reduce the exterior oily grime on the garage floor. I'm so disappointed watching the bolt being sheared off with the hammer - but sh*t happens when one isn't watching when using the hammer. Good work but very untidy!
use a flat tip screw driver to remove dirt,don't use your finger u may get cut.
It's strange because it sounded pretty good when you started it up. I didn't hear any bearings rattle or knock.
Yes, I thought so as well. It's worn out! =)
Hey Ct, I have a small box of disposable rubber gloves I use when I work on anything oily. Might be something for you to think about. 👍🏻
i think that vent is just a suggestion. lol.
J A C K L E G
Thanks dude!
Esse com certeza é o primeiro motor volks que vc desmontou kkk
Do u have any more pics of the ghia, I’d love one sweet motors
Yes, more videos on my channle check them out! =)
When you have a gap like this that means you have a bad case good luck 👍.
top.....speçial...
"It took about 3 hours or so. Could have done it faster without filming..." But it should have taken longer bagging and labeling everything as soon as you take it off. You REALLY need to get more organized. It is impossible to remember which part came from where especially when parts got replaced by non-spec spares.You'll have good use for your partswasher and sandblaster.
Boatrde estou reformando meu motor fusca 1500 cc aqui Brasil muito bom seu canal
Adjustable pushrod tubes does not mean engine was rebuilt. It means that the original tubes were rusted through and leaking, and needed to be replaced without taking off the cylinder heads. Adjustble tubes probably came out in the 50's.
No Brasil vc compra peca pra esses motores até na feira . Aqui tem vw jogados em qualquer esquina
Cadê o resto da teforma? Quero ver ate ficar pronto.
Definitely needs every thing😵😵😵 but VW IS pretty easy