HOW TO APPLY Polyurethane Properly | Polyurethane on Pine wood
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- Опубліковано 14 чер 2021
- HOW TO APPLY Polyurethane Properly | Polyurethane on Pine wood post stain! properly Polyurethaning is an important step to finishing wood properly make sure to SUB for more how to videos and DIY home projects!
#polyurethane #howto #proper #pinewood #DIY #diyprojects #butcherblock
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Never had a run with a syn. brush .. only with foam have I had any run issue . But depending on the project I also thin with spirits . Works great !!
Thinning with spirits is a great trick for top coats.
Great video! Do you do the same sanding process after every coat (except the last)? Thanks!
Yup. Even the last on also. Lightly with say a 400 grit. Then you can finish it off with an oil based furniture polish if you want.
EXCELLENT video!! You should be a teacher!
Thank you! Natasa says I like to talk alot.
Awesome video 🙌
Did you use 2 coats of the poly or 3?
I usually do 3 if it's going to be a table top surface.
i love the color of that stain! what kind of stain did you use?
Golden oak
Great video, thanks! For this example, were you using oil based or water based poly?
I guess you didn’t watch the video because he said oil based at the very start
This one was oil based.
50/50 mix poly and mineral spirits can apply thin coats with a rag "i used a cut up t-shirt" thin coats drys in an hr or so. Give it 3 - 5 coats and done
Is it as durable of a finish as when you don't thin it?
@@EverythingHouse The added solvent evaporates. The number of coatings many times is dependent on the profile of the substrate and subjectively the final use of the piece. IOW something like a kitchen table used by regular folks (yes there are a few) for all manner of things or a sidestand for a five year old budding artist with a big box of crayons as opposed to the inside shelves of a trophy case does not dictate but does suggest the number of topcoats.
Absolutely, wipe on poly. Lots of thin coats produce a great finish.
for a better finish use oooo steel wool sand verry lite , clean then use 3 to 1 thinner to poly and hand rub it in
Never tried that. How's the finish after words?
@@EverythingHouse I get a high gloss finish , I do a lot of table tops and I never call them done untill I have six coats on the top. I think but don't know if it gets heated stain on damage I can refinish with little work since I have so many coats on .
4/0 steel wool is the same as 400 sandpaper. Some steel wools are oiled to inhibit oxidation leaving the oil on the substrates that could affect the desired completed finish. Steel wool that is not treated with oil will be labled as such. Bronze "wool" is not treated. More bucks and is not usually found in the bigbox stores.
What Sheen did you choose ? I think super shiny polyurethane is ugly and it looks like yours looks a lot nicer
This one is satin. I prefer even less. The gloss makes everything look plastic.
...microfiber roller...sand between coats...a tabletop that size should literally take 30secs to coat...
microfiber roller makes me nervous. has a tendency to leave little fuzzies.
@@EverythingHouse Fabric roller sleeves can be de fuzzed with masking tape or if they have plastic cores they can be washed in a washing machine. Microfiber is lintless the structure is synthetic. Deric' is spot on using the right choice of not only the type of applicator but the size of the application tool is important. Too slow an application pace on in especially a warm shop or environment can lead to not only runs and sags but lapping. There are alkyd (poly) "clear" finishes that are applied over even lead paint, the many waterbourne' and so called mineral paints that are actually flat or matte with the addition of chalk.(Calcium Carbonte) One that is popular is a couple of coats of a highgloss clear followed topcoats of a less than high gloss coating or coatings.
using a China bristle brush to level the coats after rolling ?
A couple or more observations. Before stirring alkyd poly use an old clean paint can or just buy one from a paint store. using a can opener cut off the sealing rim. Or if that doesn't tickle your fancy, take an awl and punch some holes in the recess of the sealing lip of the original container. When stirring with even a paint store stir stick, sand that puppy and wipe it off. Only stir one way. Reversing direction entrains air.. The demo here is high gloss. Lesser gloss levels have additives that settle. Best to have those at the time of purchase put on a paint shaker. Yep, it does create bubbles and yep, they are not permanent. If the retailor doesn't have at least a one gallon shaker. Next time go to a real paint store..
The first coat on that pine especially if it has any knots anywhere should be shellac. The rattlecan stuff is OK but a better type is premixed and precut from Zinsser in quart cans. We like their "SealCoat" for it's "white shellac" appearance and long shelf life. Shellac is biochemical. The premix/precut can be applied with a brush or a folded cloth or even a sanitary napkin. DO NOT use a foam applicator. Shellac solvent is alcohol and will turn a foam applicator to mush in minutes. The beauty of shellac as the prime coat for clearcoating over is it dries in minutes and sands easily. We like two coats both scuff sanded by hand with open coat paper. The grit level choice depends on the profile of the surface being coated. Remove the sanded residue with a clean cloth or a duster brush.
Foam applicators have one advantage over brushes and fabric roller sleeves. They are disposable and cheap and do not require cleaning. They are one use tools kind of like one hit wonders who never get into the R&R Hall of Fame. They can be cleaned with paint thinner or mineral spirits which BTW, are the same thing except for the price...when using alkyd base poly or paint. The waterbourne paints and coatings can be cleaned from foamies with water. Wrapping a foamie in foil or clear food wrap whilst the poly dries and cures to save the thing is not a good idea. Toss it and use a new one. We like quality brushes to apply most paints and coating of the clear category. Some say using a quality bristle brush is not cost effective because it has to be cleaned. When we see way too many submissions of "flipping" of some off the curb or dumpster firewood that was free and just got flipped for five grand that was a piece of ugly to begin with what's a little thinner anyway?
These are all great tips! How long have you been working with poly?
@@EverythingHouse Specifically, not a clue..Using paints and coatings is a part of the trade, a mix of accumulated knowledge, practice and even learning the hard way sometimes. Lets address that sag on the edge of that table top.. "Poly" needs some cure time allowing the chains to merge. It also dries by evaporation the "standard" solvent being paint thinner or if one needs to be fancy or from UK, "mineral spirits" which always remind me of the Rocky Horror Picture Show.. or VM&P naptha and some other solvents that can be used. Bottom line is, that run or sag is going to show as it was or is currently sanded. A run or sag in many paint or coatings has sometimes as much thickness as several properly applied coats. What may seem dry and cured may not be. Sanding still uncured and not yet even dry coating does not much more than load up the sandpaper or block. A run or sag can be sometimes fixed faster by some careful scraping of the exposed surface with a single edge razor glade of a kind of a specialty tool called a nib file. Here's the trick.. Sand that puppy out when dry but not quite what looks like 100% gone. With a chip brush or some other brush or applicator, cover the run or sag with some black kid's tempera or poster paint. let it dry and sand that. When the black no longer visable so is the run.
That will be ten grand for the tip unless I can move this piano I just got from a curb.
Apply the poly with a White China Bristle brush? And these days most craftsman don't use sandpaper to sand between coats but instead use synthetic pads 0000? Also I cant see where the sandpaper is noted as "open coat"? What say you to these things?
@@gregl2249 The synthetic pads are not only great but graded but not much beyond 4/0. They are nifty on quarter sheet sanders too. For grit sizes that really cut, we buy belts from belt sanders and cut then to fit the quarter and half sheet sanders. Just for fun we got some boot liners that were huge and were felt, about a quarter inch thick. Cut one down to fit the sander platen and uses it to rub in some shellac. Addressing the brushing of poly after a roller application works in a couple of ways. The waterbourne "polys" cook off real fast. We don't use a bristle brush. A good quality flag tip works well. Rollers and sleeves are chosen for size and type of material to be applied. Painters who are trained use brushes that most of the flippers would thinks too large especially using the waterbournes. These materials are thixotropic and need to be applied quickly. That being said if they are cooking off too quickly there are retarders available. Most are some fraction of Propylene Glycol. OTOH, the alkyd "polys" and depending on the manufacture and chemistry can also be retarded and in fact accelerated.This is where a bristle brush comes in. What is not being covered in this flipping is that not all painting in done on relatively small pieces of furniture. In sort of a nutshell, "Lay it on, spread it out and lay it off. As to open or closed coat sandpaper that is defined in paint texts. Go with 3M who if you know where to look on their website or a paint store with trained staff there is a world of abrasives. If you have a wholesale account with 3M the same goes for that too. On brushes; "China" bristle might not be from China at all. The old saying about all the uses for a pig including the squeal extends to hog bristles too. The just to make sure part is that bristle brushes come full of all kinds of crap and should be washed and rinsed in thinner. The synthetics are usually clean but a rinse in warm water is a good idea. Saves sanding too..
paint thinner to wipe down between coats dries in a min.
I'll see how that goes, only thing I'm worried about is paint thinner is a solvent and is used to clean off poly, so i don't want it to loosen the poly and cause poor adhesion, or runs.
@@EverythingHouse it does not do it to mine.I do use very little .I clean same as you but without water and use thinner instead, good luck with all you do
@@ronaldcoleman7343 Dry alkyd poly is not going to be affected by paint thinner especially used on clean cloth that is just damp. Hotter solvent yes . Also safe to use on dry poly is VM&P Naptha.
Hello, what stain did you use?
Golden oak
@@EverythingHouse Thank you! Ordered it and hopefully it mimics my oak flooring. Chicity represent!
Thank you so much@@EverythingHouse. May I ask how many coats you did of Golden Oak? I for some reason am not getting the orangish color like you. So frustrating.
I do NOT have a dust-free place. No garage, no shop, nothing but a driveway or back yard. Does it have to be perfect? Couldn't I just sand between coats and lay down enough coats that the last one wouldn't matter if it got a little dusty? I'm not building anything fancy, just a box-shaped truck cap bolted to the rails.
In theory, sure. That could work as long as you are sure you have sanded out any particles and imperfections in between coats, AND wiped them all away before you apply another. Also thin out your oil based ploy with some mineral spirits. About a 50/50 mix. This will allow for the coats to dry MUCH faster, thus minimizing the chance for particles to stick to it before it dries. Good luck!!
The last part was the most important part. ''Drying for about a week'' !
Every bit of it!
Polyurethane runs like crazy! Don't load your brush like you do with paint.
Yes it does! A run is so annoying to sand out.
Try wetting the application tool with the corresponding solvent. There is also getting a substrate too smooth for the paint or coating to adhere. Another cause of runs and sags especially on clearcoated furniture is prior use of some of the liguid furniture polishes with fractions of silicone. This can be addressed many times by a coat of water where this might be suspected. The fix is a few drops of "fisheye remover" at a real paint store.
bruhhh u need to fix that table under the TV is what ya need to do 😂 good video otherwise
😂 we got rid of that IKEA pos a long time ago.
Marco's hot
Thanks boo
That is not the proper way to apply poly...must be high from not using proper ventilation, or masks and did not protect anything around the workspace. I hope there are no children in that home. Also who the heck uses a foam brush to apply poly?
Who invited this guy?