You are a true craftsman. An artist. I recently discovered your channel and it has become my favorite. You have great taste in design aesthetics. And in materials. You have great taste in tools too. I learn something new from you every video. We share common interests, yet live on opposite sides of the globe. Thank you for making these videos, they have a definitive impact on my woodworking and furniture making. which is my life. Keep doing what your doing. Every video gets a 👍🏻 click!
Thanks for sharing this. I have to make a couple of sideboards that will look a bit similar but will have a one piece swing down front. It's great to watch you doing it so I can do a better job on mine. Love your work!!
Beautiful wood. Lots of work in milling and preparing. I share your pain with the wood bowing overnight. I have a swear box in the shed for just those moments. At least it is not being painted to hide those grain patterns Thanks Joey.
I worked in NZ for a while and understand how rare seeing Rimu like that is, one of my jobs was The ARK in Christchurch on the hill in Sumner, Thanks for sharing.
I've never heard of rimu before, it's looks very nice and seems to work well. I loved how the grain came out when you used the smoother plane after the thickness sander. Great job as always
Awesome! Keep the vids coming. Sometimes when I get knee deep in a build, I wonder if it will ever end. Then I watch one of your videos and say, “oh yeah, it’s like this for everyone who does this!” Good inspiration!
Awesome work joey. keep up the great work. i would love to see you do a video on how you sharpen your chisels. They always seem razor sharp. Thanks Dennis
Very nice Build!. Just a quick tip for slotted screw holes. Use the Festool Domino. Use a smal cutter for the screw from the underside and a bigger one which match the screw head from the top. Perfect slots are made.
I assume the front panel bowed because it dried from the outside, while staying wet (humid) inside. It would probably help to leave the drawer opened for several days, and then make a finish with a water resistant lack. Or on the contrary, to cover the front panel with lack as soon as possible, before it starts to bend due to different humidity.
Another option for the drawer front supports would be recessing them into the drawer front material in a groove. Still leaving enough material for a screw to bite onto, and going further than that would be having them sliding dovetails so no need for screws means you could recess them even further.
+Crafted Workshop cheers man. I used the antaro drawer with tip on blumotion. Part number 38013495. You need to order the push to open spring latch separate as you need to work out the rough weight of each drawer. Much easier if you can get a catalog from them direct. Cheers
Love your work mate, with these types of builds I use the Blum Movento or Grass Dynapro which work the same way but allow you to make a nice wooden drawer box. I hate the metal sides.
Joey love all the videos mate. Is that tattoo on your finger your "wedding ring"? If so that is a great idea. And this comes from someone who has no tattoos. Thanks for sharing your craftsmanship.
Very nice work. I was thinking of doing something similar in my bathroom but was concerned about real wood in a damp environment, is danish oil all that is needed to protect it from standing water?
Awesome jod man where on earth did you get that much rimu from ? also good to see another Kiwi woodworker posting no UA-cam .that's three of us that I know of you me wacky Woodworks Dale 😊
Beautiful piece of furniture! I noticed that you didn't use a jointer when dressing the lumber, how do you manage to get such great result without a jointer?
I do have a jointer but don't use it that much. Generally the timber I buy is quite flat. Especially once cut to short lengths any twisting is usually very minimal. There is always cupping to deal with but the thicknesser takes care of that
Rimu is an 'interesting' timber. Through and through (plain-sawn) slabs not that rare in the South Island (several West Coast millers have wind thrown concessions, and there's someone in the far north recovering 150 year old river rimu - I just bought some). Your piece was mostly 'sap'. Quite blond, as someone else said. Heart rimu is almost a different timber. Beef red, quite brittle but mild to work, silky finish from sharp tools, spectacular when oiled. Truth be told, 'heart' vs 'sap' doesn't make much sense when talking about rimu. Age of the tree seems to make the most difference, not size. I have some heart timber (a half cube or so) milled for me by local miller Jan Dirks from Okarito Forest in the 80s. It's spectacularly good , not at all like the board you had to work with. I'm eking it out - small boxes and the like, sold through my local museum. I'm in two minds about rimu. I like it, but given a choice I'd prefer walnut (black or English), matai (New Zealand's native equivalent of cherry, also known as black pine) or even white oak (from recycled furniture) or sapele, from furniture. Malcolm www.macpherson.co.nz
Since you obviously know and mastered sliding dovetails, the supporting bars on the back of the drawer fronts would have been the actual application for them... before the bowed. Other than that i liked the video and the build.
Amazing videos , serious talent. Got a question for you , I see most of your videos you square up a cabinet with a 6mm ply/mdf back panel . I find sometimes when I do this the front will still be out of square a couple of mm. Do you ever have this problem or know how to solve . Cheers
+David Woods hi thanks. In most cases for me this caused buy either not assembling the carcass squarely. Ie a 1mm overhang when screwing perpendicular pieces. Or the pieces have been cut slightly out of square.
Hey Joey, very lovely work! How does Danish Oil go as a vanity finish where there will be water splashed on top etc - does it mark or need regular re-surfacing?
+bluecurvedesign in my experience a good 4 or 5 coats of oil will protect the timber, as long as you take care of it. Ie don't leave puddles of water on it.
Do you think Danish Oil on the outside is robust enough for a bathroom environment ?, I go for Northane 2 Pack Poly for my Timber Vanities, it's bulletproof, nice work BTW..
Education is great, but things always seem to get in the way, they become complacent, too busy, lazy etc etc, I always put robust coatings on anything going into a bathroom to ensure the product you make lasts, following link is a vanity I made recently for a client, this has Northane, the finish looked vary natural ibb.co/d98ph6 ibb.co/emA226
Zane H, Once a client convinced me that they wanted an "oiled" birdseye maple kitchen. I did it, but got the phone call within 6 months that they wanted to pay me for a better finish. Turns out the housekeeper liked to flood the countertops with water and it ran down the cabinet fronts. I noticed the noon sun happened to hit the sink cabinet and I'm sure that didn't help. Since then, I will only build cabinets near water with a conversion varnish finish. I use the lowest (dull rub) gloss level and have never looked back. I think you are right, at some point, if you have been in business a while, you know more than clients about a lot of things. I've learned to speak up and if anything it's helped my business.
Tom, couldn't agree more, I learned as a hobbyist what work's and does not work, once you start charging for your work you can't chance experimenting, it's not only the client you need to protect but your reputation. I use Norglass two-pack aliphatic linear polyurethane, for timber going into wet areas, this product is Marine grade designed for exteriors of timber boats below the waterline, yes it does take longer to apply, but any good finish does, it is available in gloss or satin, to achieve that real flat natural look the finial finish is rubbed back wet with 1200 wet & dry. Yes I agree to speak up, after all you have years of experience of what does and does not work and what is and is not practical for the situation, this has also helped my business and builds trust from your clients.
+Zane H I can't argue finishes here ,you like what you like. I must say I disagree completely about 'can't chance experimenting' That's my business making things that don't seem to be avalible or exist. My clients come to me for this reason I'm willing to use my experience to make it as best as the project/budget will allow. This kind of work increase' s confidence in ability and skill while learning alot in problem solving etc. Being not willing to take risks with projects is simply living in the comfort of previous success' s .
+Brian Hackett it's easy to work. But actually I don't really love it colour wise. There was a period in the 90s when every one had heaps of Rimu furniture so it feels a bit dated to me.
Beautiful work (as usual). Thank you so much for sharing it.
i love your work, you are so spot on and humble; do accept your mistakes. good man. inspiration for hobbiest like myself.
You are a true craftsman. An artist. I recently discovered your channel and it has become my favorite. You have great taste in design aesthetics. And in materials. You have great taste in tools too. I learn something new from you every video. We share common interests, yet live on opposite sides of the globe. Thank you for making these videos, they have a definitive impact on my woodworking and furniture making. which is my life. Keep doing what your doing. Every video gets a 👍🏻 click!
You creat fine projects by fine hands and perfect thinking, who created your hands and your brain.
Thanks for sharing this. I have to make a couple of sideboards that will look a bit similar but will have a one piece swing down front. It's great to watch you doing it so I can do a better job on mine. Love your work!!
ha cheers
Beautiful wood. Lots of work in milling and preparing. I share your pain with the wood bowing overnight. I have a swear box in the shed for just those moments. At least it is not being painted to hide those grain patterns Thanks Joey.
I worked in NZ for a while and understand how rare seeing Rimu like that is, one of my jobs was The ARK in Christchurch on the hill in Sumner, Thanks for sharing.
+possumhead ok cool . Cheers
I've never heard of rimu before, it's looks very nice and seems to work well. I loved how the grain came out when you used the smoother plane after the thickness sander. Great job as always
+Howard Hagadorn thanks. Yea it's pretty hard to get good pieces now. And is not exported as rough lumber. Cheers
Awesome! Keep the vids coming. Sometimes when I get knee deep in a build, I wonder if it will ever end. Then I watch one of your videos and say, “oh yeah, it’s like this for everyone who does this!” Good inspiration!
+Jeffrey Lonigro ha yea it mostly never works as planned!
Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful your work. Congratulations!
Very nice job. Always good stuff when i get on your channel. Never disappointed mate! Good showing.
Hello Joey - loving your work as always and looking forward to your videos !
cheers
It's beautiful wood, and a good looking piece of furniture.
Hay man love your work was cool meeting you today love your content thanks mate
+Seth Foote all good dude
Beautiful work, Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing the mistake. Very elegant solution.
Beautiful work,I enjoyed watching your work.Keep on doing like that!Greetings from Serbia
+Milan Stojanovic oh cool thanks
Awesome work joey. keep up the great work.
i would love to see you do a video on how you sharpen your chisels. They always seem razor sharp.
Thanks Dennis
Nice work Joey. Rimu looks an interesting timber to work.
I bet you enjoyed the moment when you first wiped on the oil
Chris
+a6cjn cheers. Yes it's always fun
Nice dovetails. Good work sir
cheers
Nice! Reminds me of the hanging oak vanities I built for a client ;)
+Dorian Bracht cheers man. Yea I image there are thousands of these boxes out there
Very nice Build!. Just a quick tip for slotted screw holes. Use the Festool Domino. Use a smal cutter for the screw from the underside and a bigger one which match the screw head from the top. Perfect slots are made.
+Alexander G good tip
Perfectly closing...very good.
Really nice work!
you should do a short demonstration on how you sharpen you're chisels. keep up the good work
I assume the front panel bowed because it dried from the outside, while staying wet (humid) inside. It would probably help to leave the drawer opened for several days, and then make a finish with a water resistant lack. Or on the contrary, to cover the front panel with lack as soon as possible, before it starts to bend due to different humidity.
That thing looks great!
Love your work mate.
Nice looking piece
+Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD cheers Mitch.. finally have some Rimu to send you too!
Tip: to make elongated holes for screws which allow for seasonal movement, I usually use my Festool Domino with the 5 mm drill bit, works justs fine
+Bart Loncke hmm good tip
Very nice, thanks for sharing!
Good looking cabinet. Thanks. Not sure about the colour correction but that Rimu looked quite blond. Cheers, David.
yes it is a bit that way, client is thinking of staining the other pieces. luckily its their timber so i dont have to come up with a solution.
lovely. nice one joey !!!!!
+Matt Long thanks
Imagine . . . warped overnight . . . the wonders of natural wood . . . look nice though.
Parabéns, execução primorosa!!!
Muito bom mesmo
Another option for the drawer front supports would be recessing them into the drawer front material in a groove. Still leaving enough material for a screw to bite onto, and going further than that would be having them sliding dovetails so no need for screws means you could recess them even further.
Forgot to also mention, loving the content that you are producing at the moment! Short videos, good explanations and outstanding craftsmanship!
+Mike Whitton thanks. Yea sliding dovetails would have been the way to go. I didn't even think about it!
Just beautiful.
Stunning 👍🏼
Can you put a link to the drawer parts you use? Sometimes budget isn’t there for me to do nice drawer boxes and they look like a good alternative
Another great piece, you are the real deal my man. I'm curious how the install goes. Hopefully you can catch enough studs with the screws.
+tom ruth cheers . Yea we put extra timber in the wall so was all good.
That's great.
Awesome work, man. That drawer hardware is pretty sweet, do you have a model number? Blum has an overwhelming amount of options.
+Crafted Workshop cheers man. I used the antaro drawer with tip on blumotion. Part number 38013495. You need to order the push to open spring latch separate as you need to work out the rough weight of each drawer.
Much easier if you can get a catalog from them direct. Cheers
Thanks, great work again!
Love your work mate, with these types of builds I use the Blum Movento or Grass Dynapro which work the same way but allow you to make a nice wooden drawer box. I hate the metal sides.
That's a nice looking vanity. The drawer system looks a bit Ikea, but that's not your fault.
+Eduard van Iersel hi, drawers might look Ikea but are the top of the line in quality runners made in Austria.
I have no doubt you use top quality hardware. Keep up the good work
do you have a source for these for us?
Amazing!
Joey love all the videos mate. Is that tattoo on your finger your "wedding ring"? If so that is a great idea. And this comes from someone who has no tattoos. Thanks for sharing your craftsmanship.
Ha yip it is, biggest diamond i could buy the wife and i.
Very nice work. I was thinking of doing something similar in my bathroom but was concerned about real wood in a damp environment, is danish oil all that is needed to protect it from standing water?
Awesome jod man where on earth did you get that much rimu from ? also good to see another Kiwi woodworker posting no UA-cam .that's three of us that I know of you me wacky Woodworks Dale 😊
Beautiful piece of furniture! I noticed that you didn't use a jointer when dressing the lumber, how do you manage to get such great result without a jointer?
I do have a jointer but don't use it that much. Generally the timber I buy is quite flat. Especially once cut to short lengths any twisting is usually very minimal. There is always cupping to deal with but the thicknesser takes care of that
Great build. Could you have put a small handle on that drawer you had to shorten?
yea , Blum actually make a little rubber clip on handle for this.
KingPost TimberWorks you could just make a wooden 30mm thick out of the same material. Excellent build.
J T ι
Could you make a second, smaller drawer front out of timber and attach it to the front of the inner drawer perhaps?
+Christopher Pole yea that could work. This inner drawer kit has the aluminium front to try and save space.
Looks so good, I'd hate to cut a hole in it
yup me too
Rimu is an 'interesting' timber.
Through and through (plain-sawn) slabs not that rare in the South Island (several West Coast millers have wind thrown concessions, and there's someone in the far north recovering 150 year old river rimu - I just bought some).
Your piece was mostly 'sap'. Quite blond, as someone else said. Heart rimu is almost a different timber. Beef red, quite brittle but mild to work, silky finish from sharp tools, spectacular when oiled. Truth be told, 'heart' vs 'sap' doesn't make much sense when talking about rimu. Age of the tree seems to make the most difference, not size.
I have some heart timber (a half cube or so) milled for me by local miller Jan Dirks from Okarito Forest in the 80s. It's spectacularly good , not at all like the board you had to work with. I'm eking it out - small boxes and the like, sold through my local museum.
I'm in two minds about rimu. I like it, but given a choice I'd prefer walnut (black or English), matai (New Zealand's native equivalent of cherry, also known as black pine) or even white oak (from recycled furniture) or sapele, from furniture.
Malcolm
www.macpherson.co.nz
Very nice! If it is going to have a basin on top, won't it need a bit more protection than just Danish Oil?
+Steve SteveS hi, in my experience 4 or 5 good coats of oil will protect the timber if you look after it. Ie don't leave puddles of water on it.
Since you obviously know and mastered sliding dovetails, the supporting bars on the back of the drawer fronts would have been the actual application for them... before the bowed.
Other than that i liked the video and the build.
+Flo L your right . Didn't even cross my mind !
Cheers
Love it
Amazing videos , serious talent. Got a question for you , I see most of your videos you square up a cabinet with a 6mm ply/mdf back panel . I find sometimes when I do this the front will still be out of square a couple of mm. Do you ever have this problem or know how to solve . Cheers
+David Woods hi thanks. In most cases for me this caused buy either not assembling the carcass squarely. Ie a 1mm overhang when screwing perpendicular pieces. Or the pieces have been cut slightly out of square.
Muito bom o trabalho do cara
столько возможностей... а ты выбрал очень плохой вариант угловой стыковки корпуса (слишком затратно по времени)
Nice work, clean look. Did you do the design of this vanity?
hi, not really , kind of. client just wanted the box with drawers. i made it look as good as i could.
Love the hand work. Who makes those planes for the sliding dove tails?
HNT GORDON
... and HNT Gordon make some of the best planes in the world (and irons, if you are making your own)
Nice !!!!
Hey Joey, very lovely work! How does Danish Oil go as a vanity finish where there will be water splashed on top etc - does it mark or need regular re-surfacing?
+bluecurvedesign in my experience a good 4 or 5 coats of oil will protect the timber, as long as you take care of it. Ie don't leave puddles of water on it.
I've never seen dovetail planes like you have. What brand are they / Where did you get them?
+Whitehurst Woodworking from hnt Gordon
Nice build. Where did you buy the dovetail planes en marker?
+Thijs Wagemans cheers they are from HNT Gordon I Australia
great video! not sure if someone asked this already but what kind of plane did you use to make the sliding dovetail?
+Jacob Parrick cheers it's a side rebate plane with dovetail fence by hnt Gordon
из какого дерева в Америке делают фанеру?
How the drawers close slowly? Using synchronizer?
Do you think Danish Oil on the outside is robust enough for a bathroom environment ?, I go for Northane 2 Pack Poly for my Timber Vanities, it's bulletproof, nice work BTW..
+Zane H client was after a more natural finish. I find as long as I educate them and give care instructions it's pretty good
Education is great, but things always seem to get in the way, they become complacent, too busy, lazy etc etc, I always put robust coatings on anything going into a bathroom to ensure the product you make lasts, following link is a vanity I made recently for a client, this has Northane, the finish looked vary natural
ibb.co/d98ph6 ibb.co/emA226
Zane H, Once a client convinced me that they wanted an "oiled" birdseye maple kitchen. I did it, but got the phone call within 6 months that they wanted to pay me for a better finish. Turns out the housekeeper liked to flood the countertops with water and it ran down the cabinet fronts. I noticed the noon sun happened to hit the sink cabinet and I'm sure that didn't help. Since then, I will only build cabinets near water with a conversion varnish finish. I use the lowest (dull rub) gloss level and have never looked back. I think you are right, at some point, if you have been in business a while, you know more than clients about a lot of things. I've learned to speak up and if anything it's helped my business.
Tom, couldn't agree more, I learned as a hobbyist what work's and does not work, once you start charging for your work you can't chance experimenting, it's not only the client you need to protect but your reputation.
I use Norglass two-pack aliphatic linear polyurethane, for timber going into wet areas, this product is Marine grade designed for exteriors of timber boats below the waterline, yes it does take longer to apply, but any good finish does, it is available in gloss or satin, to achieve that real flat natural look the finial finish is rubbed back wet with 1200 wet & dry.
Yes I agree to speak up, after all you have years of experience of what does and does not work and what is and is not practical for the situation, this has also helped my business and builds trust from your clients.
+Zane H I can't argue finishes here ,you like what you like. I must say I disagree completely about 'can't chance experimenting'
That's my business making things that don't seem to be avalible or exist. My clients come to me for this reason I'm willing to use my experience to make it as best as the project/budget will allow. This kind of work increase' s confidence in ability and skill while learning alot in problem solving etc. Being not willing to take risks with projects is simply living in the comfort of previous success' s .
I've never heard of Rumi. What do you like about it?
+Brian Hackett it's easy to work. But actually I don't really love it colour wise. There was a period in the 90s when every one had heaps of Rimu furniture so it feels a bit dated to me.
KingPost TimberWorks
Halt that blasphemery right young man. ;)
Do you buy your drawer hardware some where local or spot online?
i buy direct form Blum here in Auckland.
What happened to your thumb finger?
was opening a can of fruit salad , and slipped !
Like a scene from faulty towers!
haha, I have scar from a can of tomatoes that rivals any of those left by my chisels.
What are the name of the draw Hardwear and draw instant draw
Blum = (Bloom)
I'm doing very easily this