😎 Subscribe for more videos! tinyurl.com/AlwaysSummerGarage 👍🏼 Support the channel when you shop at Obsessed Garage! bit.ly/4eiUYJm ⬇ Products in this video: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1YdyQOuGelg3lG8bqruYH-2dkobIgIo1y5C8DFIpxGyc
Nice job, what was your tds reading in ppm before the installation of the CR spotless filtration system and could you share the paint color and brand that you used to coat the garage walls?
Moreman has created an incredible business with his Obsessed Garage. I am also a fan of his UA-cam channel. This is my DREAM SET UP! Absolutely awesome set up. You are a lucky man to have that system. I am currently waiting for my own set up to come together, although I am probably going to get a COMET unit from Obsessed Garage. I just wanted simplicity and I really liked the way the COMET looks on the wall. Simple, easy to use, and clean looking on the wall. Although this system you have here is on the next level! My son in law is an engineer and he's going to help me with my pressure washer set up on the wall. He's a genius when it comes to engineering stuff like this. I am jealous buddy. The ultimate upgrade for vehicle washing! That garage washer set up you have is better than a commercial coin operated car wash. Where I live in Colorado it has the hardest water I have ever used in my entire life. We had hard water in Maryland, harder water in Kentucky, and the hardest water I have ever seen in Colorado. And it's super dry up here in the upper atmosphere so water dries super fast on the car. SUPER FAST. Literally within a minute, it's dry and then you have streaking all over the vehicle from hard water stains. A Deionized water set up is a must here, although I don't have one yet. I do a lot of rinseless washes and that helps because the rinseless solution softens the water quite a bit. It's a nightmare when you have to do a bucket wash here without deionized water. I think it's all the minerals in the water here which comes down off the mountain which is pretty much the source of water we have here. It doesn't rain all that much here in the summer but it freakin' snows like hell in the winter time. Then the water drains off eventually after leaching through the vast Mountains we have here over something like 10,000 years so it has a super high mineral content. The TDS readings are off the charts. I am enjoying your channel sir. You do a nice job explaining all your equipment and also the processes you use in detailing.
Yep I'm a huge OG fan as well.. learned a LOT from his videos. Good luck with the pressure washer build! It's a project but absolutely worth doing imo. Glad to hear you're enjoying the content brother.. much appreciated 🍻
Thanks! Really appreciate you guys checking it out. And yeah, I saw that about the Prevost fittings after the fact.. my bad. Correction added to description.
Not sure if you mentioned it, but if you want to bridge two wall studs for mounting heavy objects, you can also use Unistrut. It's steel and quite strong. Paint it your color of choice (or not) and you're good to go.
I have watched your install video twice. Thanks for the detailed description. I am thinking that some people may prefer to leave the screw heads that mount the board to the wall exposed. The benefit is that if you need/want to take the board down to modify the setup, you can find the screw heads a little more easily. Overall - a very clean install!
Awesome man, hope you found it helpful! Also solid point about the screw heads.. that's definitely a consideration if you think you might ever take it down. I'm just hoping if we ever move the next owners will want it lol.
Phenomenal video!!! Thank you for such detailed explanation of every step. Great step up. I will definitely be looking into rapid air set up. Thanks again for such a great tutorial
@@AlwaysSummerGaragetip. We used a hair dryer to heat up the yellow stickers and as you heat it grab a corner and slowly peal as your moving the hair dryer across the sticker. Comes off perfectly. Then use some Goof Off the wipe any sticky residue. Spray it onto a peeper towel and wipe the residue off and your done.
@@AlwaysSummerGarage our pleasure. We just finished installing our own setup. We used all the prevost pipes and fittings but this is cool as well. Didn’t know they made other fittings that worked with the prevost pipe. Are those blue fittings also prevost fittings. Sorry if you said and didn’t catch it.
@@26-CJ all good, actually the pipe and fittings are from a company called RapidAir; it's their FastPipe kit. Same kind of aluminum pipe, but these are plastic fittings as opposed to the aluminum fittings Prevost uses.
Thanks for the detailed explanation and spreadsheet on parts you used! Really nice job! Can you share the wall space footprint? I am trying to see if I can make this work on a cinder block wall in my garage.
Thanks man.. hope you found it helpful 👍 - and good question; I'll update the spreadsheet with this info. From the top of the shelf to the bottom of the tanks is about 54".. add another 9" to include the pipe underneath it but that's probably more specific to my setup and placement. From left to right is about 36" if you include the bucket fill piping or about 30" if you don't - add on another few inches to include potential horizontal slack from the water inlet hose to the pressure washer. Finally the furthest it comes out from the wall (hose reel plate to the front edges of the reel) is about 13.5".
I have the 1800 Karcher, I LOVE the design of the cube vs other ones. I just wish it was a little quieter :) I am just a weekend washer detailer. I do want to replumb my wall and add either DI or RO.
Yeah if I had to choose between K1800 models again, I would have gone with the cube. As for the DI setup, I love the CR tanks.. it's crazy how good they work 👍
@@AlwaysSummerGarage how long is the resin lasting you? I am really on the fence what to do. I have 80ppm and was thinking an RO system to possible single DI. I am just a weekend washer. Definitely becomes an addiction for no reason ha.
@@Vectorr66 I'm probably a bad metric cause I'm super conservative with using DI water. I won't use it at all if it's cloudy and even in direct sun I'll spray off the soap and then respray with DI water in under a few minutes. That said, I installed the system 4 months ago and I'm still reading 0ppm (with an average of 215ppm unfiltered water in my area). Totally hear you on the addiction part though!
Looks pretty sick, man. I’m not 100% confident in the plastic fittings, but then I’m no plumber either. I’m sure you’ll get many years out of the setup. The Kranzle would have looked better imo but the 2.3 is a champ up there. 😊😊😊
Thank you brother. You guys will certainly be the first to know if the plastic gives way but the internals look pretty solid and, after the first wash at least, everything seems to be holding up. And yeah man I definitely would have loved to have pulled the trigger on a Kranzle, but I'm beyond happy with the 2.3 👍
Thanks! It's not bad actually and it definitely doesn't move. I wouldn't put the pressure washer on the front edge by any means but at 29lbs for the standalone unit, it's not going anywhere.
Yeah man, it's been about 4-5 months now and still holding up so I think the RapidAir kit is a solid choice. I likely would have gone with the Prevost setup, but it was out of stock when I went to buy and I got impatient.. but so far it's been great.
I had bad luck with coxreels with powder coat in the threads and just shotty QC..if bought from OG they are made sure they come perfect tho..still doesnt touch reelcraft, hannay, titan, etc..
nope, the water splits off from under the crawl space via pex piping to the lines going to the laundry room and all of the valves for the wall setup are standard ball valves, 3/4".
So I have a 30x30 piece of 1/2 plywood I mounted using 4 hefty 7/16 x 2" long lag screws. Will it be enough to support the shelf w/ pressure washer along with the 100ft hose reel? Im obviously only going to be screwing into the plywood.
Sorry bro, I wouldn't be the one to tell you if that will work. I don't know what shelf you have but if it's the 18 or 20" size, that should be able to go into the studs. For the hose reel, you should consider the backing plate since there will be added tension pulling on the hose as it comes off the reel.
Thank you brother 🍻 I don't see any reason why you couldn't as long as your temps and PSI are within range. For temps, FastPipe can handle up to 140ºF which is about what residential tap tops out at so you should be good there.
I have a question, I have an active 2.3 and I want to do a DI water setup.. can the CR spotless keep up with the demands of the washer? The manual says it needs an input of 4.8 gpm and CR spotless says they want the output at around 2.5 gpm to maintain 0 ppm
From what I read in the manual, you just need to keep the GPM under 4 if using the DIW/C-20 and it doesn't matter what your PSI is. So far, it seems to work great with the 2.3.
Great video brother. I got a tip for u on the water valve you can remove the screw on top of the handle and move it to your like position and screw it back on.
Just watched this video and you did a great job. I just completed this setup without the water filtration. Got my parts from various sellers. Obsessed Garage is too expensive for me.
Thanks brother, I appreciate that. How are you liking your setup? And yeah OG def procures some crazy top shelf stuff. Sometimes I'll splurge if I think the experience will be worth it or if it's something I learned about from their videos and other times I'll get something cheaper elsewhere.
@@AlwaysSummerGarage My system makes washing my cars easier. I have the first generation Active VE52 and figuring out nozzle size to use. Based on the calculator on MTM Hydro I should use a 2.68 orifice, not available, so I got 3.0 to start with. We'll see.
Yeah probably and also I'd guess because aluminum is lighter and cheaper than copper. These systems were designed for compressed air, but they say it can be used with (non-potable) water.
I didn't check, but the TDS rating in my area is about 215 and spots were very noticeable. I've done one wash with the CR tanks now and it's insane how well they work.
not sure I can picture how you mean, but without the bucket fill on my setup it would only have been 2 tee/3 way pieces. I'd be interested to see a pic if you can post one.
@@AlwaysSummerGarage The lag bolts they supplied with the mounting bracket are definitely bigger than the ones you used on your shelf. I bought the same lag bolts you used based on you parts list. I just want to try and get it right the first time.
@@stevehoyle1157 yep, I hear you. The ones I got from Obsessed Garage for the mounting plate were 1/4" x 2-1/4" and the ones I used for the shelf and CR tanks were 1/4" x 2-1/2". I don't know if maybe they changed out the bolts since I got mine but that figure was based on physically measuring the ones it came with (I don't think they reference it anywhere). I would definitely suggest consulting a contractor or something if you want to be 100% sure, but it's been a few months and my setup still seems to be pretty solid.
Not for something like this with water lines connected. Air hose, yeah but have you seen those Giraffe ones for example? They're ridiculous. I'd be concerned they'd go flying and rip through something.
Thanks! It's ridiculously great. The time saved on set up and tear down alone is insane but add to that the upgraded performance coming from my K1700 and not racing to avoid water spots and it wildly improves the experience. I made a separate video on the Active 2.3 but, in short, it's a fantastic machine. Thanks for making it 🍻
@@AlwaysSummerGarage the point of the stainless steel reel bracket is so that it reaches studs in the situation where it is installed directly onto drywall. But when there is a wood backing plate installed this usually eliminates the need for a the metal bracket as the 16 inch distance required between studs isn’t necessary anymore.
@@DG-hq6rc ah you're talking about the plywood, my bad. Yeah that was added support for the DI tanks not the reel. Technically I could have just used a smaller piece for the tanks as the shelf and reel are in the studs, but I liked the 4 x 2 piece for the uniformity and extra support.
Could you please explain why these set-ups have a gate valve immediately before and after the DI filter? I understand having one entering the filter because you'd have it shut if you just wanted to use tap water, but I don't understand having one immediately after the DI filter.
I think it's because it prevents the back flow of water into the tanks. If you didn't have the valve after the tanks and bypassed to the unfiltered water, it would still flow around the loop and fill up the tanks.
😎 Subscribe for more videos! tinyurl.com/AlwaysSummerGarage
👍🏼 Support the channel when you shop at Obsessed Garage! bit.ly/4eiUYJm
⬇ Products in this video:
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1YdyQOuGelg3lG8bqruYH-2dkobIgIo1y5C8DFIpxGyc
Nice job, what was your tds reading in ppm before the installation of the CR spotless filtration system and could you share the paint color and brand that you used to coat the garage walls?
Moreman has created an incredible business with his Obsessed Garage. I am also a fan of his UA-cam channel. This is my DREAM SET UP! Absolutely awesome set up. You are a lucky man to have that system. I am currently waiting for my own set up to come together, although I am probably going to get a COMET unit from Obsessed Garage. I just wanted simplicity and I really liked the way the COMET looks on the wall. Simple, easy to use, and clean looking on the wall. Although this system you have here is on the next level! My son in law is an engineer and he's going to help me with my pressure washer set up on the wall. He's a genius when it comes to engineering stuff like this. I am jealous buddy. The ultimate upgrade for vehicle washing! That garage washer set up you have is better than a commercial coin operated car wash. Where I live in Colorado it has the hardest water I have ever used in my entire life. We had hard water in Maryland, harder water in Kentucky, and the hardest water I have ever seen in Colorado. And it's super dry up here in the upper atmosphere so water dries super fast on the car. SUPER FAST. Literally within a minute, it's dry and then you have streaking all over the vehicle from hard water stains. A Deionized water set up is a must here, although I don't have one yet. I do a lot of rinseless washes and that helps because the rinseless solution softens the water quite a bit. It's a nightmare when you have to do a bucket wash here without deionized water. I think it's all the minerals in the water here which comes down off the mountain which is pretty much the source of water we have here. It doesn't rain all that much here in the summer but it freakin' snows like hell in the winter time. Then the water drains off eventually after leaching through the vast Mountains we have here over something like 10,000 years so it has a super high mineral content. The TDS readings are off the charts. I am enjoying your channel sir. You do a nice job explaining all your equipment and also the processes you use in detailing.
Yep I'm a huge OG fan as well.. learned a LOT from his videos. Good luck with the pressure washer build! It's a project but absolutely worth doing imo. Glad to hear you're enjoying the content brother.. much appreciated 🍻
Great video - one thing to mention and clarify however is that the Prevost fittings are anodized aluminum, not plastic. Nice work!
Thanks! Really appreciate you guys checking it out. And yeah, I saw that about the Prevost fittings after the fact.. my bad. Correction added to description.
Not sure if you mentioned it, but if you want to bridge two wall studs for mounting heavy objects, you can also use Unistrut.
It's steel and quite strong. Paint it your color of choice (or not) and you're good to go.
I didn't, but good to know.. thanks!
I’m glad you clocked the shutoff valves like you did. I was yelling at the screen at 21:20. 🤣 glad you finally saw it.
Haha! I almost cut that part out but I wanted to show the error of my ways 🤣
@@AlwaysSummerGarage haha! Glad it worked out. Maybe, if you didn’t see it, right away, you’d figure it, eventually. 🤣
I have watched your install video twice. Thanks for the detailed description. I am thinking that some people may prefer to leave the screw heads that mount the board to the wall exposed. The benefit is that if you need/want to take the board down to modify the setup, you can find the screw heads a little more easily. Overall - a very clean install!
Awesome man, hope you found it helpful! Also solid point about the screw heads.. that's definitely a consideration if you think you might ever take it down. I'm just hoping if we ever move the next owners will want it lol.
@@AlwaysSummerGarage I know that feeling!
The tubes are too small anyway any video of it running?
Super clean install! I prefer using PEX C because it does not rely on one’s skill using the crimp tool correctly, and is therefore less error probe.
Thanks brother! Good to know about PEX C 👍
@@AlwaysSummerGarage Correction. I used Pex-A, also called expansion Pex.
Phenomenal video!!! Thank you for such detailed explanation of every step. Great step up. I will definitely be looking into rapid air set up. Thanks again for such a great tutorial
Much appreciated brother! Hope it helps for your setup 🍻 it's definitely a project but insanely transforms the wash process experience.
@@AlwaysSummerGaragetip. We used a hair dryer to heat up the yellow stickers and as you heat it grab a corner and slowly peal as your moving the hair dryer across the sticker. Comes off perfectly. Then use some Goof Off the wipe any sticky residue. Spray it onto a peeper towel and wipe the residue off and your done.
@@26-CJ awesome tip brother, thank you! 🍻
@@AlwaysSummerGarage our pleasure. We just finished installing our own setup. We used all the prevost pipes and fittings but this is cool as well. Didn’t know they made other fittings that worked with the prevost pipe. Are those blue fittings also prevost fittings. Sorry if you said and didn’t catch it.
@@26-CJ all good, actually the pipe and fittings are from a company called RapidAir; it's their FastPipe kit. Same kind of aluminum pipe, but these are plastic fittings as opposed to the aluminum fittings Prevost uses.
You have probably worked it out but you can remove and swap the valve handle direction around to suit fitment and orientation.
Yeah someone pointed that out to me. It worked out, but I should have looked that up beforehand. Appreciate the heads up though 🍻
Thanks for the detailed explanation and spreadsheet on parts you used! Really nice job! Can you share the wall space footprint? I am trying to see if I can make this work on a cinder block wall in my garage.
Thanks man.. hope you found it helpful 👍 - and good question; I'll update the spreadsheet with this info. From the top of the shelf to the bottom of the tanks is about 54".. add another 9" to include the pipe underneath it but that's probably more specific to my setup and placement.
From left to right is about 36" if you include the bucket fill piping or about 30" if you don't - add on another few inches to include potential horizontal slack from the water inlet hose to the pressure washer.
Finally the furthest it comes out from the wall (hose reel plate to the front edges of the reel) is about 13.5".
I have the 1800 Karcher, I LOVE the design of the cube vs other ones. I just wish it was a little quieter :) I am just a weekend washer detailer. I do want to replumb my wall and add either DI or RO.
Yeah if I had to choose between K1800 models again, I would have gone with the cube. As for the DI setup, I love the CR tanks.. it's crazy how good they work 👍
@@AlwaysSummerGarage how long is the resin lasting you? I am really on the fence what to do. I have 80ppm and was thinking an RO system to possible single DI. I am just a weekend washer. Definitely becomes an addiction for no reason ha.
@@Vectorr66 I'm probably a bad metric cause I'm super conservative with using DI water. I won't use it at all if it's cloudy and even in direct sun I'll spray off the soap and then respray with DI water in under a few minutes. That said, I installed the system 4 months ago and I'm still reading 0ppm (with an average of 215ppm unfiltered water in my area).
Totally hear you on the addiction part though!
@@AlwaysSummerGarage Appreciate the replies.
@@Vectorr66 anytime brother. Good luck with the system 👍
Looks pretty sick, man. I’m not 100% confident in the plastic fittings, but then I’m no plumber either. I’m sure you’ll get many years out of the setup. The Kranzle would have looked better imo but the 2.3 is a champ up there.
😊😊😊
Thank you brother. You guys will certainly be the first to know if the plastic gives way but the internals look pretty solid and, after the first wash at least, everything seems to be holding up. And yeah man I definitely would have loved to have pulled the trigger on a Kranzle, but I'm beyond happy with the 2.3 👍
How is the vibration on pressure washer on shelf , will not move out of shelf. Will not move ?
Looks great Thank you for the video
Thanks! It's not bad actually and it definitely doesn't move. I wouldn't put the pressure washer on the front edge by any means but at 29lbs for the standalone unit, it's not going anywhere.
Are you still happy with the RapidAir FastPipe setup? Thanks!
Yeah man, it's been about 4-5 months now and still holding up so I think the RapidAir kit is a solid choice. I likely would have gone with the Prevost setup, but it was out of stock when I went to buy and I got impatient.. but so far it's been great.
I had bad luck with coxreels with powder coat in the threads and just shotty QC..if bought from OG they are made sure they come perfect tho..still doesnt touch reelcraft, hannay, titan, etc..
That sucks.. fortunately I haven't had any issues so far but good to know some other brands just in case.
Did you put a back flow valve on water inlet side?
nope, the water splits off from under the crawl space via pex piping to the lines going to the laundry room and all of the valves for the wall setup are standard ball valves, 3/4".
So I have a 30x30 piece of 1/2 plywood I mounted using 4 hefty 7/16 x 2" long lag screws. Will it be enough to support the shelf w/ pressure washer along with the 100ft hose reel? Im obviously only going to be screwing into the plywood.
Sorry bro, I wouldn't be the one to tell you if that will work. I don't know what shelf you have but if it's the 18 or 20" size, that should be able to go into the studs. For the hose reel, you should consider the backing plate since there will be added tension pulling on the hose as it comes off the reel.
If you wanted is there any reason why the pipe couldn't be used to hook to power washer? Nice video
Thank you brother 🍻 I don't see any reason why you couldn't as long as your temps and PSI are within range. For temps, FastPipe can handle up to 140ºF which is about what residential tap tops out at so you should be good there.
Best to keep the flexible/rubber to isolate the vibrations from the rigid pipe.
I have a question, I have an active 2.3 and I want to do a DI water setup.. can the CR spotless keep up with the demands of the washer? The manual says it needs an input of 4.8 gpm and CR spotless says they want the output at around 2.5 gpm to maintain 0 ppm
From what I read in the manual, you just need to keep the GPM under 4 if using the DIW/C-20 and it doesn't matter what your PSI is. So far, it seems to work great with the 2.3.
Great video brother. I got a tip for u on the water valve you can remove the screw on top of the handle and move it to your like position and screw it back on.
Maaaaan.. wish I'd known that earlier lol. Fantastic tip bro, thank you!
Great job, that looks so cool.
Thanks brother 🍻
Just watched this video and you did a great job. I just completed this setup without the water filtration. Got my parts from various sellers. Obsessed Garage is too expensive for me.
Thanks brother, I appreciate that. How are you liking your setup?
And yeah OG def procures some crazy top shelf stuff. Sometimes I'll splurge if I think the experience will be worth it or if it's something I learned about from their videos and other times I'll get something cheaper elsewhere.
@@AlwaysSummerGarage My system makes washing my cars easier. I have the first generation Active VE52 and figuring out nozzle size to use. Based on the calculator on MTM Hydro I should use a 2.68 orifice, not available, so I got 3.0 to start with. We'll see.
Sent you an email, wondering if you got it.
@@trconway yep, got it and replied last week. Did it end up in spam or something?
@@AlwaysSummerGarage Unable to find your email. Please resend.
Awesome wall setup!!!
Thanks man, appreciate you checking it out 👍
Curious why the Aluminum vs Copper? Aesthetics?
Also curious how DI water will affect the aluminum over time.
Yeah probably and also I'd guess because aluminum is lighter and cheaper than copper. These systems were designed for compressed air, but they say it can be used with (non-potable) water.
What was you tds reading for ppm before adding in the CR spotless filtration system?
I didn't check, but the TDS rating in my area is about 215 and spots were very noticeable. I've done one wash with the CR tanks now and it's insane how well they work.
@jgo.m3 nice job. Do you mind sharing what color and brand of paint you used on your garage walls? Thanks
Thanks man. The wall paint is Sherwin-Williams Fortitude (SW 9562).
My set up is exactly the same but for some reason mine was very straightforward to install only two water lines and two 3 way is all i needed.
not sure I can picture how you mean, but without the bucket fill on my setup it would only have been 2 tee/3 way pieces. I'd be interested to see a pic if you can post one.
What size pilot holes did you drill for the lag bolts that go with the hose reel mounting bracket?
Pretty sure it was 3/16" for all the lag screws since they were all 1/4".
@@AlwaysSummerGarage The lag bolts they supplied with the mounting bracket are definitely bigger than the ones you used on your shelf. I bought the same lag bolts you used based on you parts list. I just want to try and get it right the first time.
@@stevehoyle1157 yep, I hear you. The ones I got from Obsessed Garage for the mounting plate were 1/4" x 2-1/4" and the ones I used for the shelf and CR tanks were 1/4" x 2-1/2". I don't know if maybe they changed out the bolts since I got mine but that figure was based on physically measuring the ones it came with (I don't think they reference it anywhere).
I would definitely suggest consulting a contractor or something if you want to be 100% sure, but it's been a few months and my setup still seems to be pretty solid.
Hi would you consider retractable reel?
Not for something like this with water lines connected. Air hose, yeah but have you seen those Giraffe ones for example? They're ridiculous. I'd be concerned they'd go flying and rip through something.
Pretty cool set-up! How are you liking it so far?
Thanks! It's ridiculously great. The time saved on set up and tear down alone is insane but add to that the upgraded performance coming from my K1700 and not racing to avoid water spots and it wildly improves the experience.
I made a separate video on the Active 2.3 but, in short, it's a fantastic machine. Thanks for making it 🍻
Didn’t need the reel bracket since you have the backing plate
Not sure what you're talking about.. there was the reel itself and backing plate. That's it.
@@AlwaysSummerGarage the point of the stainless steel reel bracket is so that it reaches studs in the situation where it is installed directly onto drywall. But when there is a wood backing plate installed this usually eliminates the need for a the metal bracket as the 16 inch distance required between studs isn’t necessary anymore.
@@DG-hq6rc ah you're talking about the plywood, my bad. Yeah that was added support for the DI tanks not the reel. Technically I could have just used a smaller piece for the tanks as the shelf and reel are in the studs, but I liked the 4 x 2 piece for the uniformity and extra support.
Could you please explain why these set-ups have a gate valve immediately before and after the DI filter? I understand having one entering the filter because you'd have it shut if you just wanted to use tap water, but I don't understand having one immediately after the DI filter.
I think it's because it prevents the back flow of water into the tanks. If you didn't have the valve after the tanks and bypassed to the unfiltered water, it would still flow around the loop and fill up the tanks.
@@AlwaysSummerGarage Oh yeah, good point. I didn't consider that. Thank you!
@@an032nv 🍻
Thank you!
Anytime bro 🍻