(2015 S85D, fusebox under the hood, on the left). I was leaning on my door on a road trip, it got stuck. At the next charging station I found the relevant fuse, pulled it (took at bit of effort without a fuse-puller), put it back in and voila - the handles worked perfectly again. Eveyone was very impressed, which was a bonus. Thank you.
Had this issue 6 months ago and a tech came to my home to replace the door handle. Cost me about $400. Today another door did this exact same thing I was dreading having to spend another $400 on another handle. I have a 2013 and my fuse panel was in the frunk. Noticed after I already took the inside panel apart first 😅. But I pulled the fuse for about 2 minutes, replaced it and the door handle worked! Thank you so much!!!!! This fix just worked for me. Took about 15 minutes.
Thats awesome! Love hearing it. Kept expecting mine to play up again but it has been trouble free for almost 18months now. Hope yours is the same for you!!
I followed your advice here and I fixed it and I'm crying. Within 24 hours my car was shot up by a bb gun, my tire hit a curb, and then my handle got stuck. My total bill for all of this was going to be well above $3000. You saved me so much money! I have never done anything to fix a car in my life and I have no idea how any of this works yet I was able to accomplish this in under 15 minutes. thank you thank you thank you
This vid saved my life. I had this exact problem with my 2015 and the fuse box was under the frunk. I used your link to find which one to pull. Thanks a million
This worked just as described. I removed the panel near the door and pulled the fuse and then put it back. The rear door handle retracted perfectly. Super easy and took 3 min total
I also want to add just in case anyone is American, I found my panel still on the right side door. This is probably obvious to people who know cars, but I was wondering since the steering wheel was on the opposite side for me if everything else would be as well. for Americans, it was on the passenger side.
For me that has been a permanent fix - It originally happened because of a one off physical impedance to the handle so once reset have had no more issues. If yours keeps getting stuck there May be excessive resistance? Have you tried lubing up your door handle(s)? Get a good penetrating oil (not wd40 as that’s technically a cleaner not a lubricant) and spray inside all the door handles to free them up as much as possible. No promises but it might help…???
As mentioned, pre 2016 have all fuses are in the one place in the frunk area. In 2016 onwards, like in this video, some fuses are in frunk and some are in front footwell. I have linked fuse diagrams for both pre and post 2016 in the description of the video. Good luck with it!
Face lift model with the latest handle. Handle would sometimes present, and would often self-open the door after the door was pulled closed. If the handle was flush, it could be pressed to open the door (kind of like the model X). Pulled the fuse and the handle went dead. Reinstalling the fuse got me right back to the bad behavior. Bummer.
@@bbtrevival The underlying problem turned out to be a cracked motor gear (the gear that drives the paddle gear. I'm convinced the remaining problems are software. Perhaps the repeated failures sat a code that disables further efforts to use the motor. I'm pretty sure the motor stopped turning a day or two before I pulled the handle apart. I had a spare motor+gear and (directly powered) it now smoothly runs the handle in and out. Sadly, the software refuses to power it. I've forced a software update, but to no avail. Any idea if there is diagnostic software that can clear codes down to the door handle level?
Not sure about a reset for the windows, but have you tried recalibrating it? See below for the instructions from Tesla. For other manufacturers you need to keep holding the button for a further 5 seconds or so after the window stalls. I always do that whenever mine need to be recalibrated. Calibrating Windows In the unlikely event that a window behaves unexpectedly (touches the bright molding, fails to open or close properly, goes down more than normal when the door opens, etc.), you can calibrate it to potentially fix the issue. To calibrate a window: Close the door with the affected window. Sit in the driver's seat and close the driver door. Using the window's switch on the driver's door, raise the affected window until it stalls. Using the window's switch on the driver's door, lower the affected window until it stalls. Repeat step 3 and raise the affected window until it stalls. The window should now be calibrated. If the issue continues after attempting the calibration procedure a couple times, contact Tesla.
Do you mean disconnect the 12 volt battery? Wanted to demonstrate/pinpoint it to the specific circuit and not do just a general electrical reset. But yes in a pinch, disconnecting the 12 volt battery may achieve the same outcome.
My 2015 S rear handle got stuck out and I powered down the car via Safety option on the MCU then powered up and did a 2 button reset and the handle came good! I guess I was just lucky.
Literally just saved me hundreds. Hope you get paid for this video. Thank you & God Bless!!!
Yay so glad it helped! Mines been working perfectly ever since! Hope yours does too 😊👍
(2015 S85D, fusebox under the hood, on the left).
I was leaning on my door on a road trip, it got stuck. At the next charging station I found the relevant fuse, pulled it (took at bit of effort without a fuse-puller), put it back in and voila - the handles worked perfectly again.
Eveyone was very impressed, which was a bonus.
Thank you.
That’s awesome! They will think you are a master Tesla technician in no time! Happy Tesla-ing ☺️👍
Had this issue 6 months ago and a tech came to my home to replace the door handle. Cost me about $400. Today another door did this exact same thing I was dreading having to spend another $400 on another handle. I have a 2013 and my fuse panel was in the frunk. Noticed after I already took the inside panel apart first 😅. But I pulled the fuse for about 2 minutes, replaced it and the door handle worked! Thank you so much!!!!! This fix just worked for me. Took about 15 minutes.
Yay glad it helped! Mines been good ever since (about 18 months so far). Hope yours is the same for you ☺️👍
It worked! Took me under 15 minutes to fix. Thank you soooooo very much!
You just saved me $433 and having to go to the service center. You're the man! Thank you so much!
Thats awesome! Love hearing it. Kept expecting mine to play up again but it has been trouble free for almost 18months now. Hope yours is the same for you!!
I followed your advice here and I fixed it and I'm crying. Within 24 hours my car was shot up by a bb gun, my tire hit a curb, and then my handle got stuck. My total bill for all of this was going to be well above $3000. You saved me so much money! I have never done anything to fix a car in my life and I have no idea how any of this works yet I was able to accomplish this in under 15 minutes. thank you thank you thank you
So sorry to hear about your car but yay for quick self fixes! So good. Keep being awesome!
You just saved me $334. Thanks!
Yay that’s awesome ☺️☺️👍
I am being on a trip and just the same door handle stuck the way as yours and your advice works, thank you very much. Greetings from Czechia.
Lovely to hear. 18 months on and mine hasn’t had any more problems. Hope yours is the same for you!! Enjoy the trip 😊👍
This vid saved my life. I had this exact problem with my 2015 and the fuse box was under the frunk. I used your link to find which one to pull. Thanks a million
Yay!! so glad to hear it helped!!! All the best 😊😊
This worked just as described. I removed the panel near the door and pulled the fuse and then put it back. The rear door handle retracted perfectly. Super easy and took 3 min total
Yay that’s awesome! So glad it worked for you!
Genius! Good lord. The fuse box on the floor!
😬
Thank you so much... eaaaaaasy fix like that.... any time.... worked as s'en on your video!!!! Thanks
That’s awesome! Mine hasn’t had any more issues since. Hope yours is the same! ☺️🤞
You are genius!! It worked!! Thank you so much for this fantastic video. Really really helpful. Thank you so much again!
Yay! that’s awesome! Love the simple fixes! All the best 😊👍
Thanks from Belgium, We have that problem, and We résolved. Thanks
It worked for me too. Thank you very much!
Yay that’s awesome!
Thanks buddy. You were spot on and the trick worked
Yay glad it helped!!
Worked perfectly for me!
That’s awesome! Nice work
Thanx so much for your helpful video!
Welcome 😊😊
It worked for me!!!! Thanks!!! 👌👌
Yay that’s awesome! Glad it helped!
This worked for me..Thanks
Yay! That’s awesome!
I also want to add just in case anyone is American, I found my panel still on the right side door. This is probably obvious to people who know cars, but I was wondering since the steering wheel was on the opposite side for me if everything else would be as well. for Americans, it was on the passenger side.
Thanks for the info! Good to know
Great stuff! Thx!
Welcome 😊
Did you ever find a permanent fix? The fuse reset works for about a week, but for me it always gets stuck again.
For me that has been a permanent fix - It originally happened because of a one off physical impedance to the handle so once reset have had no more issues. If yours keeps getting stuck there May be excessive resistance? Have you tried lubing up your door handle(s)? Get a good penetrating oil (not wd40 as that’s technically a cleaner not a lubricant) and spray inside all the door handles to free them up as much as possible. No promises but it might help…???
You show the front fuse box but never touched any of the fuses. After taking mine apart I’m realizing there may be no related fuse in the front box…?
As mentioned, pre 2016 have all fuses are in the one place in the frunk area. In 2016 onwards, like in this video, some fuses are in frunk and some are in front footwell. I have linked fuse diagrams for both pre and post 2016 in the description of the video. Good luck with it!
What kind of fuse it
I believe it is called a “micro3” fuse 👍
Face lift model with the latest handle. Handle would sometimes present, and would often self-open the door after the door was pulled closed. If the handle was flush, it could be pressed to open the door (kind of like the model X). Pulled the fuse and the handle went dead. Reinstalling the fuse got me right back to the bad behavior. Bummer.
That is a bummer. Was it just the one side? Sounds like the electrics in the handle itself might be playing up.
@@bbtrevival The underlying problem turned out to be a cracked motor gear (the gear that drives the paddle gear. I'm convinced the remaining problems are software. Perhaps the repeated failures sat a code that disables further efforts to use the motor. I'm pretty sure the motor stopped turning a day or two before I pulled the handle apart. I had a spare motor+gear and (directly powered) it now smoothly runs the handle in and out. Sadly, the software refuses to power it.
I've forced a software update, but to no avail. Any idea if there is diagnostic software that can clear codes down to the door handle level?
DIY joy!
Thank you 😊
thanks for the video I’m going to try this fingers cross
Let’s us know how it goes!
Nice
TY 😊
where is for window ? whenever i lock my car my driver side window open up.
Not sure about a reset for the windows, but have you tried recalibrating it? See below for the instructions from Tesla. For other manufacturers you need to keep holding the button for a further 5 seconds or so after the window stalls. I always do that whenever mine need to be recalibrated.
Calibrating Windows
In the unlikely event that a window behaves unexpectedly (touches the bright molding, fails to open or close properly, goes down more than normal when the door opens, etc.), you can calibrate it to potentially fix the issue.
To calibrate a window:
Close the door with the affected window.
Sit in the driver's seat and close the driver door.
Using the window's switch on the driver's door, raise the affected window until it stalls.
Using the window's switch on the driver's door, lower the affected window until it stalls.
Repeat step 3 and raise the affected window until it stalls.
The window should now be calibrated. If the issue continues after attempting the calibration procedure a couple times, contact Tesla.
Easier to just take a reset......
Do you mean disconnect the 12 volt battery? Wanted to demonstrate/pinpoint it to the specific circuit and not do just a general electrical reset. But yes in a pinch, disconnecting the 12 volt battery may achieve the same outcome.
@@bbtrevival No. I mean soft or hard reset. With the buttons on the steering wheel.
Or did you try and it didn't work?
@@bjrnerikbergman6816 no luck with a steering wheel reset and didn’t want to try a factory reset.
My 2015 S rear handle got stuck out and I powered down the car via Safety option on the MCU then powered up and did a 2 button reset and the handle came good! I guess I was just lucky.