Hey everyone, here is the link to the struts I bought Please note this is not an affiliate link so I do not make any money if you buy them. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BTK4UM?ref=em_1p_0_ti&ref_=pe_2313390_561270230
besides using the non branded Porsche struts that cause the delamination, the real cause for the delam is in not shutting the rear hatch correctly. Many folks 'one-hand' the glass or release it into a strong wind by the actuator or by not holding onto the hatch while opening into the wind, this causing stress to the bonding at frame. To open correctly, BOTH hands need to be applied on both opening and shutting the glass, directly placing hands over the lock points at each side, with hands upon the spoiler. Pressing down lightly and not slamming the glass. The grasping on one side of glass upon closing, causes the hatch to slightly twist and then bind and tear bonding agents at the pinch point at top. I am thankful the original selling dealer walked me through this when I bought my first 944 new and it retains it's original sealing with no water leaks. 40 years later
The only proper way to do that is to completely remove and disassemble the glass and the frame. Clean the mating surfaces apply some ridiculously strong adhesive, and then ratchet strap the frame to the glass (risking shattering the glass due to the force being applied) and letting it sit until the adhesive is dried. Then praying it does not separate immediately after attaching the struts 6 to 12 months later. This is a far more simple solution. If you have a hatch that is separated source a good used one for a good price and use these struts. It eliminates the issue before it potentially even happens due to the reduced lifting pressure of the struts. I went through 2 previous hatches and tried resealing them to no avail.
Thanks for the video. I bought a 944 and it has a spot that is delaminating (about 2” long) over the passenger side hinge. I thought this was because the driver side strut was dead and causing the hatch to flex. I ordered new struts but have not installed them. I just ordered some of the struts you speak of. Is my whole hatch junk already? Can I glue up the one section? Thanks for the tips
@@jamessteil1262 thanks dude. I did a repair on my rear hatch last year and it’s been holding up well. If I have any issues again I will look into the product you mentioned here
automotion used to make a tool that would fit on pistion body part of struts was a clamp type fixture if you have a lathe or drill press easy to make ...helps hold up if you have weak or dead struts..same with weak hood struts
Those mag reed switches typically are used for low voltage and amp signals for alarms, if you have not done already...I would use t he reed switch to signal a relay as the reed switch may heat up over time and may melt or fail.
Good tip I didn’t know that would be a potential issue. I never had any issues while using my setup. Unfortunately my car was totaled so now it doesn’t really matter for me, but a good tip for anyone attempting to do the same setup.
Could you verify the part number for the Jeep Wrangler lift support? I’m not finding SG14008, but did find SG214008 as an alternative on Rockauto’s website for a Sach’s replacement part. Thanks!
Sure, here is the link to the thread where the original person lists the link. This is also the link I used to buy mine. rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/1039356-rear-hatch-struts.html www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BTK4UM?ref=em_1p_0_ti&ref_=pe_2313390_561270230
My 1983 Porsche 944 non turbo sat in storage for about 8 months and when I got it back there was about a .5 inch gap between the frame and glass , anyone know good fixes ?
I’d take the advice I mentioned. Try to find a good one that hasn’t separated. Otherwise you’re stuck taking the hatch off the car entirely removing all of the aluminum trim and Frame and taking the spoiler off. The next step is to try to reglue the glass to the frame and use some ratchet straps to keep the pressure on it for 2 or 3 days until the glue sets. Then install all the rest of the trim and the spoiler back on and then reinstall the hatch into the car.
Hey everyone, here is the link to the struts I bought
Please note this is not an affiliate link so I do not make any money if you buy them.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BTK4UM?ref=em_1p_0_ti&ref_=pe_2313390_561270230
besides using the non branded Porsche struts that cause the delamination, the real cause for the delam is in not shutting the rear hatch correctly. Many folks 'one-hand' the glass or release it into a strong wind by the actuator or by not holding onto the hatch while opening into the wind, this causing stress to the bonding at frame. To open correctly, BOTH hands need to be applied on both opening and shutting the glass, directly placing hands over the lock points at each side, with hands upon the spoiler. Pressing down lightly and not slamming the glass. The grasping on one side of glass upon closing, causes the hatch to slightly twist and then bind and tear bonding agents at the pinch point at top. I am thankful the original selling dealer walked me through this when I bought my first 944 new and it retains it's original sealing with no water leaks. 40 years later
Nice video. Nice tip with the Wrangler parts. I know people also score used original struts that have a little life left. Take care!
good thinking, clever fix, top job
Thank you!
I thought you were going to show us how to remove the glass and re-adhere it to the frame in such a way that it doesn't separate a year later.
The only proper way to do that is to completely remove and disassemble the glass and the frame. Clean the mating surfaces apply some ridiculously strong adhesive, and then ratchet strap the frame to the glass (risking shattering the glass due to the force being applied) and letting it sit until the adhesive is dried. Then praying it does not separate immediately after attaching the struts 6 to 12 months later. This is a far more simple solution. If you have a hatch that is separated source a good used one for a good price and use these struts. It eliminates the issue before it potentially even happens due to the reduced lifting pressure of the struts. I went through 2 previous hatches and tried resealing them to no avail.
Thanks for the video. I bought a 944 and it has a spot that is delaminating (about 2” long) over the passenger side hinge. I thought this was because the driver side strut was dead and causing the hatch to flex. I ordered new struts but have not installed them. I just ordered some of the struts you speak of.
Is my whole hatch junk already? Can I glue up the one section? Thanks for the tips
@@tims_4x4_garage 3m windo-weld part number is 08609. It will work!
@@jamessteil1262 thanks dude. I did a repair on my rear hatch last year and it’s been holding up well. If I have any issues again I will look into the product you mentioned here
You do not need to ratchet strap the glass down that is completely inaccurate. These are touchy because of the wires typical Porsche stuff.
automotion used to make a tool that would fit on pistion body part of struts was a clamp type fixture if you have a lathe or drill press easy to make ...helps hold up if you have weak or dead struts..same with weak hood struts
Interesting, I’ve never heard of that but it sounds like a great solution.
Those mag reed switches typically are used for low voltage and amp signals for alarms, if you have not done already...I would use t he reed switch to signal a relay as the reed switch may heat up over time and may melt or fail.
Good tip I didn’t know that would be a potential issue. I never had any issues while using my setup. Unfortunately my car was totaled so now it doesn’t really matter for me, but a good tip for anyone attempting to do the same setup.
@@TakeFlightGarage aw man, hope you're ok..
@@tolkienleung Thanks man. Nothing major thankfully just a little banged up. Walking and talking though so that’s good.
Could you verify the part number for the Jeep Wrangler lift support? I’m not finding SG14008, but did find SG214008 as an alternative on Rockauto’s website for a Sach’s replacement part. Thanks!
Sure, here is the link to the thread where the original person lists the link. This is also the link I used to buy mine.
rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/1039356-rear-hatch-struts.html
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BTK4UM?ref=em_1p_0_ti&ref_=pe_2313390_561270230
My 1983 Porsche 944 non turbo sat in storage for about 8 months and when I got it back there was about a .5 inch gap between the frame and glass , anyone know good fixes ?
I’d take the advice I mentioned. Try to find a good one that hasn’t separated. Otherwise you’re stuck taking the hatch off the car entirely removing all of the aluminum trim and Frame and taking the spoiler off. The next step is to try to reglue the glass to the frame and use some ratchet straps to keep the pressure on it for 2 or 3 days until the glue sets. Then install all the rest of the trim and the spoiler back on and then reinstall the hatch into the car.
This does not say how to repair the window and frame u should change the title
I just run no struts
I did that for the longest time too lol.