Half Price Oramask Alternative. But does it work?
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- 150ft Vinyl Masking VS 100ft Oramask for half the cost! This is my alternative to Oramask 813 and how it stacks up against the tried, tested and proven Oramask 813 stencil vinyl.
However, things don't always go to plan and in this video, I show how to get rid of the sticky residue you are sometimes left with without using chemicals that can stain the wood, leaving you with another problem to solve.
TIP: When buying either of these, look for the larger roles and compare the prices. That's where the big savings come in.
Tools and Materials Used:
Oracal ORAMASK 813 film - amzn.to/438AKLt
Vivvid Blue Stencil Vinyl - amzn.to/3FD7qDH (Check out the 24" x 150ft roll, even cheaper!)
Amana Tool - RC-45711 In-Tech Insert Carbide V Groove 90 Deg -
amzn.to/3poKYtz
Makita Trim Router RT0701C - amzn.to/45VqGIk
Makita 18V Brushless Drill XPH12Z - amzn.to/45UXjWu
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I have another suggestion... try a airbrush instead of spray paint. You'll be amazed at how little paint you need, how fast it dries, how it eliminate bleeding and how it keeps the Oramask from leaving stick residue. The latter is caused by the solvents in the spray paint. Even though the color is kept on the top of the Oramask the solvents get through partially and dissolve the adhesive. I learned this at Workbenchcon 2023.
Awesome! I Never thought that might cause the sticky residue. Will look into that for sure and maybe do a follow up on this video. Thanks again!
What paint/airbrush? I have a critter, never used it though.
I had that happen with Oramask but the main surface was painted, so I couldnt sand it. I was able to get it off with mineral spirits. Great job
Yep certainly a bit trickier when you have a finished surface. Same with something that is varnished. A pain to get off sometimes without scratching or leaving a dull spot. Still looking for ways around this issue though.
Interesting, thank you.
I never heard of Oramask.. but nice information
You are welcome! It’s very good stuff for CNC and other applications. But there are ways to get by without it. Just easier in my opinion.
The oramask came off what looks to be the center (the end) of a roll and the vivid was a brand new roll not as tightly wound
Hey Kevin. I have that same issue even on a new roll of Oramask. I reckon it is the thicker backing paper on the Oramask. But, in the end they both are good and I personally don’t mind using either one. Just comes down to the price at the time of purchase. Thanks for the comment.
I use the same vvivid masking material on both my vinyl cutter and with my co2 laser as a mask to protect from soot. It's worked great for both.
I generally use a low-tac masking tape for the laser, the same width as these rolls. What I do want to try is cutting shapes or letters on the laser using the Vivvid. I know you cant cut PVC because of toxic fumes, so will have to check on this first.
@@TwinSummitDesigns I've thought about doing the same. Are you going to try to adjust the power/speed so it doesn't cut through the backing paper? I don't think I'd be able to get that to work. It would make some designs impossible to register with transfer tape if I had to cut all the way through. I don't think this stuff is laser safe. But then again, I don't really think the glue in plywood, MDF, or masonite is safe either. Even if the paper in tape is safe, what about the adhesive? I think there's no way to know without lab testing, the safest thing to do is have really good fume extraction.
What Im after is more of a stencil to use on a flat surface, like Aluminium Composite Panel so I can paint around it. Like doing a sign with text for example. I have done a test or two probably two years ago with Oramask and that worked fine, so I can't think why it wont work with Vivvid. But yes, good extraction regardless. My CO2 has two big extraction fans and for something like this, it would pretty much just be a scoreline. Might make a video on that depending on how that goes. :)@@RichardThompsonCA
Amazing
Are they actually made by the same people, i ask because i bought the vivid and it came with a bit of tape on it that had 3m, vivid, oracal and Siser, then I bought some oramask 813 (direct from oramask on amazon global came from the USA to UK), amazingly it had the exact same piece of tape on it holding it from unravelling, with vivid 3m oracal and Siser. It was a tiny differnt shade blue than the oracal but nearly identical. I haven't used the 813 yet and I think they were roughly the same price so. The vidid had backing paper that said vivid and the oramask had backing paper that said oramask. Its really bizarre. They just different products from the same people?
That is interesting. I did a quick Google search and it seems like they are different companies, but I reckon it is pretty much the same thing, regardless of where it comes from. As for the 3M tape you mentioned, I cant say for sure but guess that it is maybe a good tape to use for that purpose..? coincidence, maybe? Im curious about the Sister brand you mentioned. Have you tried it yet to see how that compares to the other two?
@@TwinSummitDesigns Hi, I think you slightly misunderstand what i meant. The tape is some masking tape that stops the roll of oramask coming undone, and printed on this masking tape are those names, 3m Siser Oracal and Vivid, now, when I bought my Vivid that ALSO had the same tape with the same company names on it stopping it from unraveling. Its not a roll of 3m tape, its a piece of masking tape that just stops the rolls of vinyl unravelling, but both oracal and vivid had the exact same tape with the exact same companies on each to stop it unravelling in shipping. Its really bizarres i bought the vivid from vivid amazon UK and the oramask came from oracal US Global amazon. I can't work it out so i assume they are both made by the same people! I haven't tried the 813 as yet i'll do a proper comparison when i get a moment to cut some stuff!
@@theinternetseekers2436 Ooookay I see! Yep that is quite strange hey! I have no idea why that is. I would just try them all and see what works best for the best price. I am still using the Oramask and Vivvid and both do pretty much the same thing for me. I will be out soon so in the market to try something different. Thanks very much for your feedback on this!! :)
@@TwinSummitDesigns Ok, so I've had a little use of them both now, I only use them on a plotter and use them as rolls not single sheets, what I've discovered is that they are pretty similar, the vivid lacks some of the quality of the 813, the vivid is a hair thinner but both seem to cut quite well, I'd say if your putting the stencil on a curve like a helmet or something the vivid probably a bit better but the oramask 813 best on flat surface (infact they make oramask 810 for curved application). The main difference I have and will make me soley buy the 813 from here on in other than the slight increase in quality of the material is that when on a roll and being fed into the machine, the Vivid lifts from the backing paper allowing air bubbles in and when that happens its it accelerates it happening more meaning over and over you have air bubbles that are the width of the roll (12" in my case) up and down your masking material. The Oramask doesn't do this it remains stuck steadfast to the backing paper and I get little to no air bubbles, if one does form it doesn't accelerate the process leading to more air bubbles. Personally the 813 is the choice for what I do, in a pinch either would be fine, but the frustrations of the airbubbles forming along the roll and not being easily dealt with because they are so large and still on a roll, I'll stick 813 its just a better product.
@@theinternetseekers2436 Thanks for the detailed feedback! I can see how getting air between the surface and the masking can be a pain to deal with. I have not had this issue myself, but then again, I am not using it the same way. I always unroll what I need and use it as a single sheet. Most of the time I manage to get it down almost perfectly without bubbles, but it does take a bit of practice. I still need to get around to either 3D printing or just buying a drag knife for my CNC to cut stencils with. In the end, it's what works that matter most. The price difference between the two was not that much last time I checked and that cost I always include in what I make and sell. My customers are usually more than happy to pay a little extra if I explain the difference in the quality they will get. :)
Bro thank you, this is going to save my life right now! I started making some plaques and was having a lot of bleed around the edges, so this is going to help so much.
You are very welcome! Glad that helped.
Thanks for the tip.I've had that sticky residue problem on a white painted sign with black painted letters. Was a nightmare! I used cotton buds soaked in white spirits (I think) to gently remove. Or maybe it was Shellite? I can't remember.
You are welcome. But yes, certainly much harder to get it off on a painted surface you dont want to get ruined. :)
I have a laser engraver so I have to be careful what I use. No PVC based masking. Personally I use 12 inch wide painters tape.
I often use the same 12" painter's tape and it works well.
Using a down/cut-shear v-bit will help cut the film more cleanly. Cadence Manufacturing "Jenny" v-bits work amazing.
It certainly does! Thanks for mentioning!
Frisco Craft brand makes a legit one too!
Thanks for letting me know. I will check them out as well. 👍🏻
I believe you are using 813 and that is for water based paint.
Hey Larry! I have not actually checked to be honest, but I have been using both Acrylic and Enamel without any issues. I Actually found a slab the other day I started with about 18 months ago but never finished. I used white enamel on that and I was quite surprised when I tried to peel it off. Came right off without any residue or bleeding.
Only about 25% cheaper now. Still cheaper though :)
Do you have to seal the wood before you put it on? Or can you just have it sanded well?
You can do it one of two ways - For a sign going outside I stick it down directly onto the wood (after sanding it down first) and then seal it with something like linseed oil after it has been painted, else the masking won't stick to the wood. For an internal sign, I like to seal the wood before I engrave and paint to avoid anything running into the engraved and painted parts. So both work fine, it just depends if it is going inside or outside. Im actually doing 5 small signs for a school in a week or two so I will video that process for an internal sign specifically. Hope that helps!
oramask is superior on a cnc. vvivid doesnt stick worth a crap even with extensive surface prep. I works pretty good while using it as a laser cut stencil. I believe the heat seals the edges as it cuts.
Thanks for the comment! I have not had the same experience with Vivvid. Might have something to do with the way I apply it, even on bare wood. I have thought about using it for a stencil, cutting it with the laser. Do you cut it after or before applying it though? That’s where the vivvid generally stays flat with the backing still on and the Oramask curls back on itself making it harder to keep flat. Curious to know how you use it? Cheers!
@@TwinSummitDesigns Apply the mask then run your stencil cut file. Then you just weed the stencil and paint as normal.
StarCraft Starmask
Never heard of this before to be honest. Looks like the kind of masking you would use in a vinyl cutter?
For the V-Bit RC-45711, do you use and 12x12mm replacement knives of you only use the one from Amana AMA-12 ?
I was thinking on buying these planer knife that come in bulk, that as the same width
I actually bought a spare blade with the bit (Amana) but I have not even used it yet. Still on the original blade it came with which is amazing actually! But I can’t see why you would not be able to use a different blade on it. As long as it’s the same size…
What type of spray paint is best to avoid paint bleeding into the wood grain? Thanks!
I reckon a good undercoat before the topcoat is the key here, then you can use just about any topcoat suitable for where it will be used (inside or outside). Some brands also specifically mention it can block tannins in wood which is great! I would recommend going with something like that if you know there are tannins in the wood else it will discolour the topcoat. I always test on some scraps first though.
Thanks for the heads up. I'll give the vvivid a try.
You are welcome!
What type of wood is that?
This is called Merbau. It's generally used for decking boards and garden furniture. It's a dense wood and does well outside. You do need to use an undercoat to block the tannin in the wood from staining the topcoat.
Thanks for the info
I had the thing happen with oramask when i used white self etching primer. It was hot out too, but i always assumed it was the paint because it didnt happen with the other colors i was using.
One thing I learned when this happens is to try and take the masking off a bit faster in one swoop if possible and not slowly like I did here. That sometimes seems to reduce the sticky residue quite a bit. But it does happen from time to time. Still love it regardless.