@@Sabestooo The bigger the wheel the slower its rpm, a 2Foot (typical wheel size) or 24 inches is around 610mm so if we multiply it by 3.14 we will know the distance the wheel will travel per one revolution, it is 1915mm or 1.9m 100miles per hour = 161km/h. So if we take 161 and multiply it by 1000 wee will get 161000 meters of distance. Let's divide 161000 by 1.9 ( the distance the wheel will travel per one revolution) = 84737 rotations and since there are 60 minutes in each hour let's divide 84737 by 60 minutes = 1412 revolutions per minute. A typical aluminium disk that you call a CD or DVD has a diameter of 120mm and it fails at around 23000 rpm (UA-cam it). If you take a 610mm diameter of the wheel and divide it by 120mm diameter of CD = 5.1 So the wheel is 5.1 times bigger than CD, if we accept this linear correlation in size we can also accept that failure RPM for the wheel will be 5.1 times slower. If you take 23000 RPM at which CD fails and divide it by 5.1 = 4510 RPM. Naturally, it is really rough guesswork, however, I think you will start to see a better picture. if you concerned with it breaking when you hit something like a stone or curb you need to remember that the original, not welded wheel broke already so it could happen again. It is possible to smash anything especially if you are really trying! There are many people who would like to see me on fire just for suggesting that you can do welding repairs on alloy wheels However, no one ever presented me with traceable evidence that will show that the alloy wheel failed due to good quality welding repair. I would be delusional if i would suggest that it is safe for you to get your alloy welded as i do not know the quality of work that you will get. In the video, i say that there are some types of damages that I do not take for repairs, so it is not a yes or no kind of question. To sum it up, if i had cracked alloy and i did welding repair on it, i would not think twice about my family being unsafe due to that weld. Hope this answers your questions.
I have repaired my wheels multiple times and not really damgerous. Eventually a new crack comes back but my rim cracks have always been slow leaks to. This year I'm going to try DIY, they charge me 80$ per repair lol
Desire to learn is admirable, however, I would consider this as critical application, so perhaps this is not the best project for learning how to weld. If you have necessary welding skills but simply never had AC/DC machine, I hope that this video will help you
I've been welding for over 25 years All techniques. This video for anyone wanting to learn. Is one of the best explained I've seen. I've welded many types of alloy and Makes of wheels. This guy shows in perfect detail It's a credit to you
I guess it is easier to shit on someone rather then teach someone. If I am wrong can you please point me to one of your videos where you show how to do it right and showing everything that I have done wrong?
So he is just using a flame with an aluminum rod to build up new aluminum?? I'm very very unknowledgeable about this stuff but trying to learn aluminum
@@tigerama778basically, yeah. The rod is an aluminum alloy, and the method is tig welding, also called gtaw (gas tungsten arc welding). The difficult part when welding aluminum is the cleaning, because even a little speck of dirt can mess a good weld
Congratulations on your vast knowledge, not only of the welding functions. rate of oxidization, melt, and pool dynamics and its surface tension and temperatures/current are needed, but the mechanical structure that goes with the geometry used. The wider Vee gap which you created helps in putting in more volume of the weld which can be tensioned/stressed better than the thinner welds, all due to the larger attachment area of fusion with the base metal. I like the manner in which you spend enough arc time on the base metal to ensure good penetration on the larger area due to the Vee of the gap. Your rate of deposit of material agrees so well with the rate at which you heat the surrounding area and you kept a little too much current when you changed from the rim to the flat circumference. This resulted in a little undercut as seen in the video at 27: 40 which you ground down. Again congratulations on your method of doing this particular repair, it is the best I have seen as you put so much knowledge in the weld and also in balancing and finishing the wheel to the best possible standard using basic tooling and good ingenuity. Prosit. May I take this opportunity to congratulate you on your spoken English language? Your mind can handle both the invisible and silent function contained in the weld but also come up with the highest form of projecting your thoughts, good luck and all the best with your work, you certainly put a lot of effort in the detail.
Exactly what I have done in the past - I made an instructable on how to cut parallel with the crack - bevel it on both sides weld and pull through - I also preheat the whole wheel before welding - when I have finished welding and profiling it - I hang it on a tether and ring it…. Goo
I have a GM Pontiac 15" x 7" cast aluminium snowflake wheel which is in good condition but has a few surface blemishes with years of use and aging. Is it possible to build up small areas, like a tiny dent or scratch in order to reshape, or regain the original contour?
In theory yes, it is possible to build up and sand down before painting, in practice it is also possible to do the same with modern day filler materials. All depends on the area. Your best bet is talking to someone who restore alloys in your area (I am in Scotland).
@@weld-deluxltd7635 That is excellent, thank you for your kind response, I really appreciate this. Doubtless aluminium has many advantages for casting, it's eminently recyclable but is not to be repaired exactly the same way as steel. I will investigate repair feasibility shortly, many thanks for your time my friend and I hope you have a great New Year!
Thank you. Do you have experience with BEHR or AKRONT aluminium wheels? They are spoked aluminum rims for BMW motorcycles. If you have previous experience do you suggest 5356 filler for those rims also? I am always told and also read that one should avoid using filler rods containing magnesium on cast aluminium. As far as i know cast aluminium is repaired with 4043. Can you explain why you choose 5356? And lastly what about the heat treatment?? Since you repaired many rims obviously it is not a big issue but if its not a big issue why they are getting heat treatment?? Becase the area you weld is relatively small so it doesnt effect the general properties of the rim?
@ I would be very cautious about welding bike rims. The weld will never be as strong as the rest of the rim.
Рік тому
@@humourless682 Very little to no information is out there to have some idea how bad of an idea to repair a bike rim. Unfortunately i will end up seeing it myself because i will be doing these kind of repairs if i can build my own workshop finally. Best thing i can is to try the rim on an off road track to see if the weld fails.
@ I have been repairing alloy car wheels for more than 20 years, and I have a good idea of what I am doing. I don't repair bike wheels, as should there be a failure there is a high chance of death or serious injury. If you want to repair car wheels as a business, you will need a 3 phase 300amp machine, ideally with mixed wave forms, water-cooled, and to be able to use it to a good standard. It is possible to do the job with a lesser machine, but it will take much longer, and that will reduce profits. I can repair a cracked wheel in about 20-25 minutes easily.
Thanks for the video. What would you recommend for small 1-2 mm gouges inside of the barrel (so no lip cracks or structural integrity issues) where the tire machine engages the inside of the rim?
Hard to say without seeing, but I would avoid any welding unless absolutely have too. If it is cosmetics or not visible, it can be ignored on the daily driver or filler and paint on the show car.
This helped me out a lot. I've welded aluminum before, but never a rim. Turns out it's not that hard as the aluminum is pretty thick. You can burn through on the edge, but I was able to build up enough on the edge to make it work. The tip on widening the crack helped me a lot to build up the weld.
you can weld on a small tab at the end and keep welding onto it so that you dont have to have your stop on the rim itself. or start on the tab or put a tab at the start and finish, then just cut the tab off and grind.
Hi, thank you for your input on my video. I agree with your statements you made. I have changed a bit how I do my wheels over the years. I remove more material with better die cutters. I make sure to get full penetration that way. I just don't remove as much as you. I also switched to 5356 filler which is much better on cast. I agree porosity is an issue if you get to much cast melted into the weld puddle. 5356 helps in that regard. Thanks again for sharing!!
Hello, and thank you for your reply! I appreciate that a lot, i am glad you did not take my comment in a bad way, as i said in my video my method is not the best it is just something that works for me.
It looks great with free hand grinding why didn't you use a jig to blend the weld so that you conform to the original wheel shape? It would look as if it came off the store shelf.
Your question requires testing of the pats before and after welding. I have never done such tests, however i see no evidence indicating that welds are the weakest point.
What about the other side where you filled in the crack? Did you cut that side of the crack out and filled it in like you're doing on the opposite side?
There is no other side. That is a whole point of the exercise, you cut out whole crack completely by digging into the "bridge" that you created at the back and then rebuilding whole lot with new metal.
Great video I'm thinking of investing in a machine any advice on a good starter model not too expensive but that'll do the job am into mig welding with my job but ally welding really interesting me at the minute thanks if you have the time if not no worries
It depends on where you live and what is available on the market. For Aluminium, you will need AC Tig preferably with high frequency start function. As far as the brand of the machine, now days it is hard to make bad welding equipment as competition is very high. The best advice I can give is in this video ua-cam.com/video/eszsJ0uUZ_E/v-deo.html If you interested to learn more about aluminium welding in general, this is a good start here ua-cam.com/video/DYbJvHPKCeQ/v-deo.html
@@weld-deluxltd7635 But that means it should penetrate deeper and result in stronger welds? Can you recommend a method or device how to mix in 10%-20% of Helium somewhat reliably? Connecting outputs of two flow meters does not work at all, I saw no change in my welds. The only way I think I see it possible is to modify the welder by adding another gas input valve to work in parallel.
@@NilsJakobson I never had to mix as it is available pre mixed from suppliers. Yet i never had to use it any Helium mixes. if i had to improvise i would consider running the union with two flow meters in reverse
Yes, Fain makes good power tools, have to say that their older versions of the grinder wheel guard is very off putting for me. I just being informed by Fain that they have changed the design, so I am looking forward to see those. Amps are in 160-120 range. When in rush 200-120 range.
Very good question! Those rims crack due to people hitting something on the road and bad design. On a separate note, aluminium welds can crack especially when MiG welding due to massive heat conductivity that leads to very rapid cooling. So preheating could help but it is totally different story for aluminium.
All it matter is cooling rate as our host said preehiting is not always nesesery specially in such large item like rim when you start it will be some bubbles you have to hit it with tig torch until they got away and only then add some filler then you can made weld and slowly taper off the bigger weld is better becouse the holl rim gets hot and then cool very slow you can always slows down cooling rate by hit it with gas torch as well you can tamper the whole rim by hitting it up to 170c it will relax and be less prone to crack latter
That is in my oppinion a really well made and explained repair. I repaired allow wheels a couple of times, for my own cars and I had them fail one time and it was because of the same problem as the one you show here. Very thin weld and not enough penetration. Also I had a hard time with small holes. I had to use a ball peen hammer to close them. I take good note of your procedure, thanks a lot for sharing your well earned experience. I like the first video shot, the colours look so real!
I currently use 2 TiG machines, 250A Fronius and 400A R-Tech, if you interested to know how they compare, I have a video somewhere on the channel. 130-160 A would be a good start.(different machines will behave slightly different). Once you put some beads in you will need to drop amps as temperature rise, especially near the edge. Have fun!
I've had this experience twice owning a BMW 328 and 335 it seems that every time I get new tires I tell the tire shop be careful but it always seems to start leaking air after tire change.
I do not think that the cracks caused by tyre shop, more likely then not it is road use that was acting upon the rim in the time frame comparable to the life of the tyre
That is it, magicwave 250A. I tend not to run it higher then 200A with ambient temperature at 15C as I do not like the machine to be loaded that heavy. At this Amperage I have 100% duty cycle.
Hi i do about 10 of these a month i generally drill a hole at the end of the crack then cut either side of the crack so it leaves about a 4-5 mm gap then use a 36 grit sanding disc to clean it up before welding then bridge the gap on the edge of the rim with a tack to prevent the gap closing during welding i always leave any weld on that is behing the raised reinforcement part of the wheel (I assume thats what its supposed to be) Also i use 4043 @ 205Amps approximately as i use a footpedal
Cup size is not so crucial for aluminium welding as it is for welding chrome nickel alloys.( I have a plan to make a video that explains that in detail) Amps are in 160-120 range. When in rush 200-120 range.
A really interesting video young man! A few questions, would you agree with my theory that forming a hot weld puddle like an extremely hot spot weld at the end of a crack in steel for example will stop the crack propagating? Did you wipe the area to weld with acetone? What risk is there of buckling the wheel? And how many passes to build up the weld bevel/groove?
In theory the idea of really hot tack at the end of crack to stop it spreading is feasible, but rather hard to achieve in practice as there is no way to be 100% sure in complete fusion unless there is some form of nonndestructive test is carried out. As I mentioned in the video it is easier to achieve this on steel then on Aluminium. Precisely welding of stainless steel hygienic pipes is exactly that, they butted together and then whole thickness of the wall is fused together, often even without filler metal. As far as deformation of the wheel, it can be observed, but usually from a cause that inflicted the crack in the first place. If you asking about deformation due to welding, i newer experienced that and think that chances are too low as you are working inside of 90 degree corner that has round shape to it so it supports and smoothes out tensions a lot. That is how I see it anyway.
I did not wiped it with acetone as after a disk the surface is not smooth and it would catch little fibres off the rag. This would be more contaminating than anything that is left after cleaning with the disk. AC current is sufficient to clean out very light oxyde or skin oils in this application. If it would be an aluminium pressure vessel for critical application, I would do everything I can including degreasing
@@weld-deluxltd7635 lol i tink snjen djtry n say iz xjxoppkkjjhm. Dkkdjd .....just playing lol no im pretty sure he is asking you how much does a welding setup like yours would cost....
The main reason spokes are on the outer edge of the wheel is because the closer you can move the steering knuckles to the center of the wheel (which means the brakes also move outward), the better the suspension can perform. This is especially true when talking about torque steer in a front wheel drive (the steering pulling one direction or the other under hard acceleration).
This is very nice work, its nice to see someone who knows what they are doing and why. I'm also a fan of using the 1mm discs in ways that aren't recommended.. haha
You are talking about high performance sport so you need to make your own decision. How different is it from regular driving? do those wheels spin at the higher speed then they would on the road? do they spin at higher grip levels that can be presume to transfer more load on the rim? I do not drift and know nothing about it, please read through existing comments, i am sure you will find your answers.
I need to add 3" to the width of my American Racing Rear Wheels to fit larger tires. The Wheels are 9" wide now and I need tem to come out another 3" . Is there anyone who can do this for me ?
This is hard one to answer as you are asking me to give you opinion on something I have not seen. If you are in the US there will be hundreds of shops who should be able to do it. The issue is I do not think this is something that you will find some one specialising in. There will be people who will manage but it will be one off jobs, priced accordingly
I must say an absolutely wonderful video, Filled with great information , I've been welding for a number of years and it's always nice to see other people's techniques and learn from them. Very, very informative video I will definitely be watching others of yours. Thanks for the information and your time be safe and take care. I've been welding for a number of years and it's always nice to see other people's techniques and learn from them. Very, very informative video I will definitely be watching others of yours. Thanks for the information and your time be safe and take care.
Nice job done to the wheel,I always try to fix stuff up since a young age since I was born in a under developed country with an ever increasing cost of living and so people are used to value their money and their goods since big efforts were made for the acquisition of these same goods. This is not the norm in developed countries...Therefore I reaLLy enjoyed watching you recuperate these wheels back to life as it's also a way of being environmentally sustainable by not throwing away the cracked wheels in order to buy new ones which imply a burden on Nature by the pollution created in the extraction of the materials and all the industrial processes to fabricate the wheels.Respect and congrats to you all the way from PortugaL🇵🇹 for doing such nice proceedings with the recuperation of these cracked alloy wheels ⚙️.
5356 is the grade of rods and I run pure argon. ArHe mix is good if you need extra power out of your machine but you are paying for it as He is very expensive
There is very little shrinkage from the weld as backing weld supports the structure. Unfortunately I do not have machine to roll the rims but bare in mind that they are balanced before they go on the car and as I mentioned I never had to repair my own welds. The town is 15000 people so my statistics can not be diluted by numbers.
i had 22'' rim where outer lip cracked same because I hit to big hole during winter time. Lip was made from stainless which was very hard material. welder guy made grove with Dremel tool from both side of crack and drilled small hole to stop crack. After TIG welding lip shrink a lot on that side plus didn't look really good on that welding spot it was like a small peak. Weld was really strong. I wish I could buy new lip and replace it but unfortunately its not available anywhere. its 22''x1.5'' with 35 holes around.
@@weld-deluxltd7635 y can see 22'' Rial Daytona Race wheel on google , that lip its not possible to restore with welding to same look if y have crack . all my tires leaked on minus 20C and i didn't noticed that day. when I hit hole pressure was about 20psi . i am looking to buy that lip to replace it but not available anywhere in world....
I've been doing this for 20 years now you are the only person I've seen that does this roughly the same way I do the only thing I do different than you is I don't use the cutoff wheel to cut the v in and I don't the back first I bur the front out then weld it open root but yeah I do not stop drill I think that is a waste of time I keyhole the end of the crack and weld it out from there
Thanks for the comment. There are many ways to skin the cat and once you figured out what works for you it is all that matters. This video is mainly for r those who never done it and I hope that they can take it and develop something that works for them. Thanks again
I am not sure if i understand you 100%. If you want to melt rod into parent material, the parent material will need to be locally melted, that is if your intention is to weld. If you interested to know more about welding aluminium and different types of welding processes i think one of my video will be interesting for you. Here is a link ua-cam.com/video/DYbJvHPKCeQ/v-deo.html
@@weld-deluxltd7635 thank you. I have a vintage enkei wheels and has some deep scratches(1 and 2mm deep scratch I think and its not a crack, just deep scratches). Can I melt aluminum rod into it as filler? I cant put body filler because i will not paint it. its a polish finished lip.
@@jameschu3186 Ok it makes sense now, this is a puzzle. It will not work if you just melt aluminium rod into it you must weld or braze it with special rods but that opens up whole new can of worms as you will need to heat it very high which is difficult as aluminium loose heat quick and if you over heat it it will melt into the blob without any indication that it will do it.
Another great video with excellent thorough explanations! Thanks for sharing. As for me, the green color is more difficult to see your work. I agree with you, I think some detail is lost. Thanks again!
Everything youve done is spot on but it you would be better off pre-heating the wheel before the welding with a propane torch for example. So your nor risking the weld cracking due to the thermal dissipation. Also you can reduce your amperage.
Great job I like how you V out the crackthat must be done I also like how you use Stringer beads. It's very great to see how some people still do it the right way great job
Hey man great video, thank you for sharing your knowledge with us 👍🏻. Quick question, do you know if a Miller Multimatic 220 can weld rims? It can AC/DC Tig and maxes out at 210A 18.4V 20% duty cycle
I have never used a Miller machine but if I needed a welder to do alloy wheels and a machine with the spec as you described happen to have a right price I would take it. It would be capable to deliver what I need. Usual duty cycle of the machine calculated with ambient temperature of 40C and in rim repair you do not weld a lot
You missed a very important part of this repair. You need to do a full penetration weld. Use a carbide burr for aluminum. They look pretty gnarly, so use A-9 cutting fluid on your burr. That’s amazing stuff in that green can. Dig everything out on both sides. Mark your piece with a 600 degree temperature stick, then use a burner from a hot water heater to heat it up to six hundred degrees. You must match the weld rod to the material or rim you are using. You must peen the weld between welds. This is critical because the weld metal will shrink. Weld and peen.....weld and peen. One side then the other. Keep it on the burner till you are done. Wrap in some kind of insulation so it will cool down slowly. Otherwise, you will see that crack again. There is no crap in the metal. It is a casting with air pockets. If this wheel was a forging or extrusion it would weld very different. That’s why you peen between welds. It’s like welding aluminum flat bar. It’s an extrusion. I am now retired from 52 years self employed welding and metal fab. I am old. But I ain’t dead.
@@1961OLDSCHOOL yes. Use a ball peen hammer or a piece of steel maybe 3/4 dia. Round it off on one end. Then use the hammer to peen or compress the weld, or, use an air hammer or a 1940’s chipping gun. And engine block is stronger as a casting than billet forging. People say there is a lot of crap in cast aluminum because it is hard to weld. Cast aluminum has microscopic air pockets . Billet or bar stock weld much nicer all be that is fooled and those air pockets are compressed in the process. Try this, find some aluminum bar stock.....maybe 1/4 x 2 about 12 inches long. Prepare them for welding. Heat them up with a torch first, then weld and look at how nice it welds.
@@jordandudley2814 technically you could but it is very complicated and you would need to put a lot of effort, expense and time to develop a process that will be limited to only one application. Perhaps I should make a video about it in the future
Because new material is allowing to cut out old crack completely while it is also holding shielding gas in place when you reweld. this way you do not get porosity or contaminations.
Thank you for your kind words! This channel has a lot of views on the videos and 98% of people never subscribe. That is ok, I am not after the numbers. I have learned a lot from others here on UA-cam, so this is my way to payback to humanity. Perhaps I should of made two separate channels as at the moment I publish same videos in English and Ukrainian version, so that may confuse some people. There are other types of videos on this channel like video of painting the van and dealing with rust on car body, diesel engine rebuilding, some equipment reviews and there are slot more to come. But I am contain with what I have as every so often I get a comment similar to yours that indicates that my video helped someone.
@@weld-deluxltd7635 i stop towards the tip and and turn the heat down a tiny bit so i can build the edge without blowing out not sure if this is a good method but it works for me
I know this video was from a year ago but excellent video and repair! I got a laugh out of all your comments on using a 1mm cutoff wheel. I get it! UA-cam is full of trolls that find joy in watching video's just so they can call people out on any possible mistake and then the other trolls pile on. Super annoying. Or, somebody watches your video and then uses a cutoff wheel that fails (probably because they dropped their grinder) causing injury and then the finger gets pointed in your direction. Gotta cover your own ass, a lot of people these days don't want to take any personal responsibility. I'm with you, over 22 years experience as a heavy equipment tech, I've used a cutoff wheel countless times to grind/cut just like you are doing and I have never had one explode. I think it boils down to paying attention to the condition of the disc and being smart about the way it's used. If you grind only with the first couple millimeters of the leading edge you will be fine. You could run into some real trouble if you try to grind with the flat surface of the cutoff wheel, that's a no-go. On a side note: You should check out the grinding wheels that pipeline welders use. They are pretty thin and specifically made for cutting and grinding, I really like them (Norton I think). Anyway, great video, content and crack repair.
I built ally boats for 2 yrs, when you get used to using aluminium milling and cutting tungsten carbide blades its safer then metal grinding discs and alot faster .just got to have really good hand/eye control so it doesn't bite into the metal,hence the name meat axe 😃
Different people will have different requirements and needs. To buy a welding machine, can be expensive, especially if you get the wrong type. Start with making a list of your projects, where they located, what power supply is available, what metal you most likely to weld and at what sizes. This will be a lot better approach the getting something that others used. Finally, there is a video on this channel about choosing right welding machine, hop it helps
When cutting or back grinding we use a 5” tungsten tipped saw blade in the grinder……. Removes the ally like you wouldn’t believe. bloody nice job by the way, nice fronius machine too, if I’m not mistaken!
@@weld-deluxltd7635 they are fearsome things to use, I personally use them on an air grinder but some of the guys at work use a standard 5” grinder…. Not me, and…… there was a young guy, just last week who works at Incat, Tore an absolute hole in his arm with one, it was so bad that they weren’t sure if he would keep his arm, real mess…… and apparently it wasn’t the first time he had done it but I’m pretty sure he will never do it again!!!
once something is broken , it's broken . if you break a bone , it may heal but it's never as good as it was before it broke and never will be . a repair is hit or miss that's why it's called a repair , not a fix . it's only a fix if it lasts . if it doesn't last you simply have to keep repairing it til it can't be repaired anymore .
one thing he says about drilling a hole at the end of a crack IS NOT necessary. . . . ITS VERY NECESSARY. Cracks travel so you grind out beyond the crack about an inch or slightly more to the drilled hole then weld it all up . And remember it's not the weld that fails , it's the material around the weld . Welding may seal a crack or mend two pieces together but the material in general in the welded area is weakened . Expansion and contraction is a b*tch and it happens to ALL metals .
does it warp the rim? is it safe afterall?
It is way safer then run on cracked wheel rim.
@@weld-deluxltd7635 obv..
@@Sabestooo The bigger the wheel the slower its rpm, a 2Foot (typical wheel size) or 24 inches is around 610mm so if we multiply it by 3.14 we will know the distance the wheel will travel per one revolution, it is 1915mm or 1.9m
100miles per hour = 161km/h. So if we take 161 and multiply it by 1000 wee will get 161000 meters of distance. Let's divide 161000 by 1.9 ( the distance the wheel will travel per one revolution) = 84737 rotations and since there are 60 minutes in each hour let's divide 84737 by 60 minutes = 1412 revolutions per minute.
A typical aluminium disk that you call a CD or DVD has a diameter of 120mm and it fails at around 23000 rpm (UA-cam it).
If you take a 610mm diameter of the wheel and divide it by 120mm diameter of CD = 5.1 So the wheel is 5.1 times bigger than CD, if we accept this linear correlation in size we can also accept that failure RPM for the wheel will be 5.1 times slower. If you take 23000 RPM at which CD fails and divide it by 5.1 = 4510 RPM. Naturally, it is really rough guesswork, however, I think you will start to see a better picture.
if you concerned with it breaking when you hit something like a stone or curb you need to remember that the original, not welded wheel broke already so it could happen again.
It is possible to smash anything especially if you are really trying!
There are many people who would like to see me on fire just for suggesting that you can do welding repairs on alloy wheels
However, no one ever presented me with traceable evidence that will show that the alloy wheel failed due to good quality welding repair.
I would be delusional if i would suggest that it is safe for you to get your alloy welded as i do not know the quality of work that you will get.
In the video, i say that there are some types of damages that I do not take for repairs, so it is not a yes or no kind of question.
To sum it up, if i had cracked alloy and i did welding repair on it, i would not think twice about my family being unsafe due to that weld.
Hope this answers your questions.
I have repaired my wheels multiple times and not really damgerous. Eventually a new crack comes back but my rim cracks have always been slow leaks to. This year I'm going to try DIY, they charge me 80$ per repair lol
Desire to learn is admirable, however, I would consider this as critical application, so perhaps this is not the best project for learning how to weld.
If you have necessary welding skills but simply never had AC/DC machine, I hope that this video will help you
I've been welding for over 25 years
All techniques.
This video for anyone wanting to learn. Is one of the best explained I've seen.
I've welded many types of alloy and
Makes of wheels.
This guy shows in perfect detail
It's a credit to you
Thank you for such high evaluation!
If you think this guy knows what he is doing, you cant be much of a welder!
I guess it is easier to shit on someone rather then teach someone. If I am wrong can you please point me to one of your videos where you show how to do it right and showing everything that I have done wrong?
So he is just using a flame with an aluminum rod to build up new aluminum?? I'm very very unknowledgeable about this stuff but trying to learn aluminum
@@tigerama778basically, yeah. The rod is an aluminum alloy, and the method is tig welding, also called gtaw (gas tungsten arc welding). The difficult part when welding aluminum is the cleaning, because even a little speck of dirt can mess a good weld
Congratulations on your vast knowledge, not only of the welding functions. rate of oxidization, melt, and pool dynamics and its surface tension and temperatures/current are needed, but the mechanical structure that goes with the geometry used. The wider Vee gap which you created helps in putting in more volume of the weld which can be tensioned/stressed better than the thinner welds, all due to the larger attachment area of fusion with the base metal. I like the manner in which you spend enough arc time on the base metal to ensure good penetration on the larger area due to the Vee of the gap. Your rate of deposit of material agrees so well with the rate at which you heat the surrounding area and you kept a little too much current when you changed from the rim to the flat circumference. This resulted in a little undercut as seen in the video at 27: 40 which you ground down. Again congratulations on your method of doing this particular repair, it is the best I have seen as you put so much knowledge in the weld and also in balancing and finishing the wheel to the best possible standard using basic tooling and good ingenuity. Prosit.
May I take this opportunity to congratulate you on your spoken English language? Your mind can handle both the invisible and silent function contained in the weld but also come up with the highest form of projecting your thoughts, good luck and all the best with your work, you certainly put a lot of effort in the detail.
Thank you very much for taking time to write such detailed and technical comment.
Exactly what I have done in the past - I made an instructable on how to cut parallel with the crack - bevel it on both sides weld and pull through - I also preheat the whole wheel before welding - when I have finished welding and profiling it - I hang it on a tether and ring it…. Goo
Thanks
I have a GM Pontiac 15" x 7" cast aluminium snowflake wheel which is in good condition but has a few surface blemishes with years of use and aging. Is it possible to build up small areas, like a tiny dent or scratch in order to reshape, or regain the original contour?
In theory yes, it is possible to build up and sand down before painting, in practice it is also possible to do the same with modern day filler materials. All depends on the area. Your best bet is talking to someone who restore alloys in your area (I am in Scotland).
@@weld-deluxltd7635 That is excellent, thank you for your kind response, I really appreciate this. Doubtless aluminium has many advantages for casting, it's eminently recyclable but is not to be repaired exactly the same way as steel. I will investigate repair feasibility shortly, many thanks for your time my friend and I hope you have a great New Year!
@@TPEsprit Happy new year to you too!
Thank you. Do you have experience with BEHR or AKRONT aluminium wheels? They are spoked aluminum rims for BMW motorcycles. If you have previous experience do you suggest 5356 filler for those rims also? I am always told and also read that one should avoid using filler rods containing magnesium on cast aluminium. As far as i know cast aluminium is repaired with 4043. Can you explain why you choose 5356? And lastly what about the heat treatment?? Since you repaired many rims obviously it is not a big issue but if its not a big issue why they are getting heat treatment?? Becase the area you weld is relatively small so it doesnt effect the general properties of the rim?
If you use 4043 the repair will fail almost certainly. Alloy wheels are Al/Mg/Si so best to use filler rod as close to that as possible.
@@humourless682 thank you
@ I would be very cautious about welding bike rims. The weld will never be as strong as the rest of the rim.
@@humourless682 Very little to no information is out there to have some idea how bad of an idea to repair a bike rim. Unfortunately i will end up seeing it myself because i will be doing these kind of repairs if i can build my own workshop finally. Best thing i can is to try the rim on an off road track to see if the weld fails.
@ I have been repairing alloy car wheels for more than 20 years, and I have a good idea of what I am doing.
I don't repair bike wheels, as should there be a failure there is a high chance of death or serious injury.
If you want to repair car wheels as a business, you will need a 3 phase 300amp machine, ideally with mixed wave forms, water-cooled, and to be able to use it to a good standard.
It is possible to do the job with a lesser machine, but it will take much longer, and that will reduce profits. I can repair a cracked wheel in about 20-25 minutes easily.
Thanks for the video.
What would you recommend for small 1-2 mm gouges inside of the barrel (so no lip cracks or structural integrity issues) where the tire machine engages the inside of the rim?
Hard to say without seeing, but I would avoid any welding unless absolutely have too. If it is cosmetics or not visible, it can be ignored on the daily driver or filler and paint on the show car.
I am in Montréal, i have my rims get brocking. How much are u gonna charge me to repair my ?
Unfortunately you are too far from me, I am in Scotland
How do you determine what grade of aluminum you are working with to match the filler metal?
You can not determine that. too many variables
@@weld-deluxltd7635 so what filler wire do you prefer?
All in the comments under the video
Nice! What would be the average amperage to tig weld this?
160A , dropping to 120A, on thinner edge
This helped me out a lot. I've welded aluminum before, but never a rim. Turns out it's not that hard as the aluminum is pretty thick. You can burn through on the edge, but I was able to build up enough on the edge to make it work. The tip on widening the crack helped me a lot to build up the weld.
Glad it helped! Thanks for letting me know!
you can weld on a small tab at the end and keep welding onto it so that you dont have to have your stop on the rim itself. or start on the tab or put a tab at the start and finish, then just cut the tab off and grind.
@@adammoore8939 thanks for your input!
Hi, thank you for your input on my video. I agree with your statements you made. I have changed a bit how I do my wheels over the years. I remove more material with better die cutters. I make sure to get full penetration that way. I just don't remove as much as you. I also switched to 5356 filler which is much better on cast. I agree porosity is an issue if you get to much cast melted into the weld puddle. 5356 helps in that regard. Thanks again for sharing!!
Hello, and thank you for your reply! I appreciate that a lot, i am glad you did not take my comment in a bad way, as i said in my video my method is not the best it is just something that works for me.
It looks great with free hand grinding why didn't you use a jig to blend the weld so that you conform to the original wheel shape? It would look as if it came off the store shelf.
Mainly because it sufficient as it is and is less hasle
Dies this make them as strong as they were originally or does the weld area become a weak spot?
Your question requires testing of the pats before and after welding. I have never done such tests, however i see no evidence indicating that welds are the weakest point.
@@weld-deluxltd7635 welds are the strongest point if done correctly. The weld becomes stronger than original material if done right
yep, with a good weld it will be stronger than the base metal. Much stronger. Unless you use a weaker filler material.
Hi Sr, do you do pre heat and post heat?
Thanks a lot.
No, in both, pre and post
what size of tungsten and type ? your tungsten doesn’t ball up you must have low AC balance ?
great technique ,, what rods do you use ?
5356, it works for me and I do not see any adverse results
What about the other side where you filled in the crack? Did you cut that side of the crack out and filled it in like you're doing on the opposite side?
There is no other side.
That is a whole point of the exercise, you cut out whole crack completely by digging into the "bridge" that you created at the back and then rebuilding whole lot with new metal.
Great video I'm thinking of investing in a machine any advice on a good starter model not too expensive but that'll do the job am into mig welding with my job but ally welding really interesting me at the minute thanks if you have the time if not no worries
It depends on where you live and what is available on the market. For Aluminium, you will need AC Tig preferably with high frequency start function.
As far as the brand of the machine, now days it is hard to make bad welding equipment as competition is very high.
The best advice I can give is in this video ua-cam.com/video/eszsJ0uUZ_E/v-deo.html
If you interested to learn more about aluminium welding in general, this is a good start here ua-cam.com/video/DYbJvHPKCeQ/v-deo.html
Thanks v much
How much do you charge to fix a crack like this u are doing now
Have you tried mixing Argon with Helium? Would that help with penetration?
It will make arc hotter
@@weld-deluxltd7635 But that means it should penetrate deeper and result in stronger welds? Can you recommend a method or device how to mix in 10%-20% of Helium somewhat reliably? Connecting outputs of two flow meters does not work at all, I saw no change in my welds. The only way I think I see it possible is to modify the welder by adding another gas input valve to work in parallel.
@@NilsJakobson I never had to mix as it is available pre mixed from suppliers. Yet i never had to use it any Helium mixes. if i had to improvise i would consider running the union with two flow meters in reverse
Is there such thing as soldering a wheel crack?
There are solders available on the market, not sure it would be good for alloy wheels
So with that said are you exceeding 250 amps ?
No, not on rim repairs
will it be better to use a lathe machine to reface the wheels and at the sametime alligned the rims?
Sorry, I can not answer that as I have none of such experience or even saw specialised machine for doing this sort work
Hi great video, what grade of filler do you use or recommend? And what thickness of filler? And roughly what amps do you use? Thanks!
Look through the comments I have answered that recently
That’s a lot of comments to look through I would like to know the same answer but to go through over 500 comments will take me all night 😂
A chunk broke off the outer lip of my Subaru wheel. Do you think it's ok to try filling it?
No idea, you asking me to make decision on something that i never seeing.
@@weld-deluxltd7635 Just emailed a pic. Thanks
Top notch equipment !!! Fein grinder, Fronius AC/DC Welder....What settings do you use on the Fronius...I have a 1700 Job AC/DC
Yes, Fain makes good power tools, have to say that their older versions of the grinder wheel guard is very off putting for me. I just being informed by Fain that they have changed the design, so I am looking forward to see those.
Amps are in 160-120 range. When in rush 200-120 range.
I need to repair my car alloy wheel. Can you do.. please advise
It depends on the type of the damage and your location
Now this guy knows what he's doing. Good job mate.
Thank you kindly!
Hi I don't know much about aluminium I weld mild steel, but if you applied heat after would that help prevent cracking.
Very good question! Those rims crack due to people hitting something on the road and bad design. On a separate note, aluminium welds can crack especially when MiG welding due to massive heat conductivity that leads to very rapid cooling. So preheating could help but it is totally different story for aluminium.
All it matter is cooling rate as our host said preehiting is not always nesesery specially in such large item like rim when you start it will be some bubbles you have to hit it with tig torch until they got away and only then add some filler then you can made weld and slowly taper off the bigger weld is better becouse the holl rim gets hot and then cool very slow you can always slows down cooling rate by hit it with gas torch as well you can tamper the whole rim by hitting it up to 170c it will relax and be less prone to crack latter
@@tomekpawowski2692 perfect comment!
Thanks very much
Hey what number on the rod did you use 5356?
Yep
@@weld-deluxltd7635 thank you and good video
@@SWTWHITEGSR Thank you for watching!
That is in my oppinion a really well made and explained repair.
I repaired allow wheels a couple of times, for my own cars and I had them fail one time and it was because of the same problem as the one you show here. Very thin weld and not enough penetration. Also I had a hard time with small holes. I had to use a ball peen hammer to close them.
I take good note of your procedure, thanks a lot for sharing your well earned experience.
I like the first video shot, the colours look so real!
Thank you for taking time to make such informative comment!
What welder model did you use
I can not remember as have several machines most likely R-tech or Fronius
Nice job…have you tried MX grinding wheels for blending aluminium welds? I always found them excellent.
No, I have not, but will consider them in the future. Thanks for the advice!
What filler material?
5356
What welder do use and best starting amp settings plz
I currently use 2 TiG machines, 250A Fronius and 400A R-Tech, if you interested to know how they compare, I have a video somewhere on the channel.
130-160 A would be a good start.(different machines will behave slightly different). Once you put some beads in you will need to drop amps as temperature rise, especially near the edge.
Have fun!
@@weld-deluxltd7635 thank you
I've had this experience twice owning a BMW 328 and 335 it seems that every time I get new tires I tell the tire shop be careful but it always seems to start leaking air after tire change.
I do not think that the cracks caused by tyre shop, more likely then not it is road use that was acting upon the rim in the time frame comparable to the life of the tyre
what type of fronius is that? im thinking of getting a ac dc 230 i magicwave
That is it, magicwave 250A. I tend not to run it higher then 200A with ambient temperature at 15C as I do not like the machine to be loaded that heavy. At this Amperage I have 100% duty cycle.
What type of welding machine used? AC or DC
AC
sir i need help my motorcycle engine crankcase just broke pls give me an ideal on how to repair it professionally
Since you asking this question, I guess that you can not do it by yourself. Find some one local who can
Hi i do about 10 of these a month i generally drill a hole at the end of the crack then cut either side of the crack so it leaves about a 4-5 mm gap then use a 36 grit sanding disc to clean it up before welding then bridge the gap on the edge of the rim with a tack to prevent the gap closing during welding i always leave any weld on that is behing the raised reinforcement part of the wheel (I assume thats what its supposed to be) Also i use 4043 @ 205Amps approximately as i use a footpedal
Gareth, thank you for informative comment
Great video. Can you recommend a good wheel repair (welding) specialist in the Birmingham (UK) area? Many thanks.
No idea, sorry!
Great video! How many amps and how big the cup do you use?
Cup size is not so crucial for aluminium welding as it is for welding chrome nickel alloys.( I have a plan to make a video that explains that in detail) Amps are in 160-120 range. When in rush 200-120 range.
hi no need to preheat it?
Not necessary, but you can if you want
@@weld-deluxltd7635 how much ampire I need
and thanks
@@جمالدحدوح-س4ن 130A + AC
A really interesting video young man! A few questions, would you agree with my theory that forming a hot weld puddle like an extremely hot spot weld at the end of a crack in steel for example will stop the crack propagating? Did you wipe the area to weld with acetone? What risk is there of buckling the wheel? And how many passes to build up the weld bevel/groove?
In theory the idea of really hot tack at the end of crack to stop it spreading is feasible, but rather hard to achieve in practice as there is no way to be 100% sure in complete fusion unless there is some form of nonndestructive test is carried out. As I mentioned in the video it is easier to achieve this on steel then on Aluminium. Precisely welding of stainless steel hygienic pipes is exactly that, they butted together and then whole thickness of the wall is fused together, often even without filler metal. As far as deformation of the wheel, it can be observed, but usually from a cause that inflicted the crack in the first place. If you asking about deformation due to welding, i newer experienced that and think that chances are too low as you are working inside of 90 degree corner that has round shape to it so it supports and smoothes out tensions a lot.
That is how I see it anyway.
I did not wiped it with acetone as after a disk the surface is not smooth and it would catch little fibres off the rag. This would be more contaminating than anything that is left after cleaning with the disk. AC current is sufficient to clean out very light oxyde or skin oils in this application. If it would be an aluminium pressure vessel for critical application, I would do everything I can including degreasing
Hi what are your settings and filler rod being used?
Usually i use 3.2mm OD grade 5356. Amperage around 140A on average. some time drop it to 120A some time crank up to 160A
@@weld-deluxltd7635 thanks... fantastic work btw
@@rickii2010 Thank you! i appreciate your comment!
Can I use 4043?
@@TheHeavensHell06 probably i never do as it cost me the same
How much A have to be the welding machine
Sorry my friend, I do not have smallest idea what are you trying to say.😳
@@weld-deluxltd7635 lol i tink snjen djtry n say iz xjxoppkkjjhm. Dkkdjd .....just playing lol no im pretty sure he is asking you how much does a welding setup like yours would cost....
I want to say how much ampers have to be a welding machine
@@mirangega1745 200+
The main reason spokes are on the outer edge of the wheel is because the closer you can move the steering knuckles to the center of the wheel (which means the brakes also move outward), the better the suspension can perform. This is especially true when talking about torque steer in a front wheel drive (the steering pulling one direction or the other under hard acceleration).
Awesome, thanks for education. Love comments like these, every day is a school day!
This is very nice work, its nice to see someone who knows what they are doing and why. I'm also a fan of using the 1mm discs in ways that aren't recommended.. haha
Thank you 😊
How about some argon and helium mix?
It is much more expensive
Would it be safe to use a wheel for drifting after such repair?
You are talking about high performance sport so you need to make your own decision.
How different is it from regular driving?
do those wheels spin at the higher speed then they would on the road?
do they spin at higher grip levels that can be presume to transfer more load on the rim?
I do not drift and know nothing about it, please read through existing comments, i am sure you will find your answers.
I need to add 3" to the width of my American Racing Rear Wheels to fit larger tires. The Wheels are 9" wide now and I need tem to come out another 3" . Is there anyone who can do this for me ?
This is hard one to answer as you are asking me to give you opinion on something I have not seen. If you are in the US there will be hundreds of shops who should be able to do it. The issue is I do not think this is something that you will find some one specialising in. There will be people who will manage but it will be one off jobs, priced accordingly
It’s great to see a craftsman enjoying his work?? Keep the vids coming assume thanks .
Thank you Brian
I must say an absolutely wonderful video, Filled with great information , I've been welding for a number of years and it's always nice to see other people's techniques and learn from them. Very, very informative video I will definitely be watching others of yours. Thanks for the information and your time be safe and take care. I've been welding for a number of years and it's always nice to see other people's techniques and learn from them. Very, very informative video I will definitely be watching others of yours. Thanks for the information and your time be safe and take care.
Thank you very much for your input, it is always appreciated. We all learn from eachother, this is the easiest route to improvement.
I watched, learned, and did it.
Great lesson!
Glad it worked for you! Thanks for watching
Nice job done to the wheel,I always try to fix stuff up since a young age since I was born in a under developed country with an ever increasing cost of living and so people are used to value their money and their goods since big efforts were made for the acquisition of these same goods. This is not the norm in developed countries...Therefore I reaLLy enjoyed watching you recuperate these wheels back to life as it's also a way of being environmentally sustainable by not throwing away the cracked wheels in order to buy new ones which imply a burden on Nature by the pollution created in the extraction of the materials and all the industrial processes to fabricate the wheels.Respect and congrats to you all the way from PortugaL🇵🇹 for doing such nice proceedings with the recuperation of these cracked alloy wheels ⚙️.
Thank you
@@weld-deluxltd7635 You're welcome👍!
Any preheat at the start?
No preheat at the start it will get hot from the welding.
What filler rod material do you use on aluminum wheels? Do use straight Argon or Argon/Helium?
5356 is the grade of rods and I run pure argon. ArHe mix is good if you need extra power out of your machine but you are paying for it as He is very expensive
did y measure for how much that rim shrink its completely oval on that side....
There is very little shrinkage from the weld as backing weld supports the structure. Unfortunately I do not have machine to roll the rims but bare in mind that they are balanced before they go on the car and as I mentioned I never had to repair my own welds. The town is 15000 people so my statistics can not be diluted by numbers.
i had 22'' rim where outer lip cracked same because I hit to big hole during winter time. Lip was made from stainless which was very hard material. welder guy made grove with Dremel tool from both side of crack and drilled small hole to stop crack. After TIG welding lip shrink a lot on that side plus didn't look really good on that welding spot it was like a small peak. Weld was really strong. I wish I could buy new lip and replace it but unfortunately its not available anywhere. its 22''x1.5'' with 35 holes around.
@@dejanmeki Very interesting, thank you for sharing!
@@weld-deluxltd7635 y can see 22'' Rial Daytona Race wheel on google , that lip its not possible to restore with welding to same look if y have crack . all my tires leaked on minus 20C and i didn't noticed that day. when I hit hole pressure was about 20psi . i am looking to buy that lip to replace it but not available anywhere in world....
@@dejanmeki That is a good looking wheel. I presume you are not in UK since you mentioned -20
5356 filler rod and size?
3.2mm
I've been doing this for 20 years now you are the only person I've seen that does this roughly the same way I do the only thing I do different than you is I don't use the cutoff wheel to cut the v in and I don't the back first I bur the front out then weld it open root but yeah I do not stop drill I think that is a waste of time I keyhole the end of the crack and weld it out from there
Thanks for the comment. There are many ways to skin the cat and once you figured out what works for you it is all that matters. This video is mainly for r those who never done it and I hope that they can take it and develop something that works for them. Thanks again
Nice vid dude! Hats off...
Can I melt aluminum rod into a pretty deep scratch as filler? Will it bond?
I am not sure if i understand you 100%. If you want to melt rod into parent material, the parent material will need to be locally melted, that is if your intention is to weld.
If you interested to know more about welding aluminium and different types of welding processes i think one of my video will be interesting for you. Here is a link ua-cam.com/video/DYbJvHPKCeQ/v-deo.html
@@weld-deluxltd7635 thank you. I have a vintage enkei wheels and has some deep scratches(1 and 2mm deep scratch I think and its not a crack, just deep scratches). Can I melt aluminum rod into it as filler? I cant put body filler because i will not paint it. its a polish finished lip.
@@jameschu3186 Ok it makes sense now, this is a puzzle. It will not work if you just melt aluminium rod into it you must weld or braze it with special rods but that opens up whole new can of worms as you will need to heat it very high which is difficult as aluminium loose heat quick and if you over heat it it will melt into the blob without any indication that it will do it.
@@weld-deluxltd7635 thank you. Now its clear. I will live with those scratches. Lol
Another great video with excellent thorough explanations! Thanks for sharing. As for me, the green color is more difficult to see your work. I agree with you, I think some detail is lost. Thanks again!
Thank you very much for taking time to reply!
I wish you was here in America cause i have a couple of rims that needs to be repaired here in new York they fix your rims and it doesn't last
Ever considered living in Scotland? 😂
What do you charge per crack repair?
40 per wheel
@@weld-deluxltd7635 where are you located
@@MarcoGonzalez-bi6cg Scotland, Peterhead
almg5 or almg4.5mn rods You use?
3.2mm diameter or 2.4mm generally
What current are you running?
The answer is somewhere in the comments to this video
k tal amigo! kiero aprender a soldar rines,k necesito comprar aparté dla planta tig.. gracias...
👍
How much does this repair go for?
40 now
@@weld-deluxltd7635 wow, what a deal
@@jasonbingle9759 thank you
Where u located?
Scotland
What is the average price for this
£40
Everything youve done is spot on but it you would be better off pre-heating the wheel before the welding with a propane torch for example. So your nor risking the weld cracking due to the thermal dissipation. Also you can reduce your amperage.
Thanks for the advice,
i think the amount of heat from building up the bridge is sufficient to preheat for final welds.
Great job I like how you V out the crackthat must be done I also like how you use Stringer beads. It's very great to see how some people still do it the right way great job
Thank you Roger!
Hey man great video, thank you for sharing your knowledge with us 👍🏻. Quick question, do you know if a Miller Multimatic 220 can weld rims? It can AC/DC Tig and maxes out at 210A 18.4V 20% duty cycle
I have never used a Miller machine but if I needed a welder to do alloy wheels and a machine with the spec as you described happen to have a right price I would take it. It would be capable to deliver what I need.
Usual duty cycle of the machine calculated with ambient temperature of 40C and in rim repair you do not weld a lot
@@weld-deluxltd7635 awesome thank you for the quick reply, have a blessed day
@@metalfab2449 You welcome Eric have fun with your new toy😉
@@metalfab2449 have you been able to find anything?? I’m trying to find the same video 😂😂😂
@@69gamersxd yeah man it works perfectly, I’m using 110v and it’s enough for what I’ve done
You missed a very important part of this repair. You need to do a full penetration weld. Use a carbide burr for aluminum. They look pretty gnarly, so use A-9 cutting fluid on your burr. That’s amazing stuff in that green can. Dig everything out on both sides. Mark your piece with a 600 degree temperature stick, then use a burner from a hot water heater to heat it up to six hundred degrees. You must match the weld rod to the material or rim you are using.
You must peen the weld between welds. This is critical because the weld metal will shrink. Weld and peen.....weld and peen. One side then the other. Keep it on the burner till you are done. Wrap in some kind of insulation so it will cool down slowly. Otherwise, you will see that crack again. There is no crap in the metal. It is a casting with air pockets. If this wheel was a forging or extrusion it would weld very different. That’s why you peen between welds.
It’s like welding aluminum flat bar. It’s an extrusion. I am now retired from 52 years self employed welding and metal fab. I am old. But I ain’t dead.
Thank you for your input
When you suggest peening between each weld can you be more specific? Are you saying atop of the entire bead or just the starts and stops?
@@1961OLDSCHOOL yes. Use a ball peen hammer or a piece of steel maybe 3/4 dia. Round it off on one end. Then use the hammer to peen or compress the weld, or, use an air hammer or a 1940’s chipping gun. And engine block is stronger as a casting than billet forging. People say there is a lot of crap in cast aluminum because it is hard to weld. Cast aluminum has microscopic air pockets . Billet or bar stock weld much nicer all be that is fooled and those air pockets are compressed in the process. Try this, find some aluminum bar stock.....maybe 1/4 x 2 about 12 inches long. Prepare them for welding. Heat them up with a torch first, then weld and look at how nice it welds.
rods almg5 or others?
the grade of alu rods is in the previous comments, just look through them
You doing good mate, I will first see if the rim is not bent befor I weld the rim
👍
Fantastic Educational Video' Thanks For Taking The Time To Share Your Expertise. Yes' The Green Filter Shows The Weld Process Best.
Thank you for taking time to watch and comment
Are u welding ac or dc? What kind of gas are u using?
AC welding with pure argon as shielding gas.
Weld-delux LTD could u still use this process with DC?
@@jordandudley2814 technically you could but it is very complicated and you would need to put a lot of effort, expense and time to develop a process that will be limited to only one application. Perhaps I should make a video about it in the future
Weld-delux LTD ok, thanks for the knowledge! An yea that’d be something I’d love to watch and learn from.
@@jordandudley2814 I will keep it in mind as I said it will require good bit of efforts. Have a healthy and happy New year 🎆
А если трещина какой-нибудь хитрой формы а не прямая, как сделать разделку тогда?
Так само з різницею що місток на зворотньому боці доведеться робити ширше
@@weld-deluxltd7635 спасибо
Great video but,why use all that material just to cut it away..
Because new material is allowing to cut out old crack completely while it is also holding shielding gas in place when you reweld. this way you do not get porosity or contaminations.
Hi. Are u UK based?
Yep, Aberdeenshire
@@weld-deluxltd7635 thanks. Too far for me to travel for a repair.
@@m1421 Are you in Scotland?
@@weld-deluxltd7635 no in Brum
For the amount of knowledge you have, you deserve more followers. I don't know about welding and I found that amazing and informative.
Thank you for your kind words!
This channel has a lot of views on the videos and 98% of people never subscribe.
That is ok, I am not after the numbers. I have learned a lot from others here on UA-cam, so this is my way to payback to humanity.
Perhaps I should of made two separate channels as at the moment I publish same videos in English and Ukrainian version, so that may confuse some people.
There are other types of videos on this channel like video of painting the van and dealing with rust on car body, diesel engine rebuilding, some equipment reviews and there are slot more to come. But I am contain with what I have as every so often I get a comment similar to yours that indicates that my video helped someone.
Has anyone tried a repair with a spoolgun or mig
Sure, it is harder to do, simply because Mig is better suited for long runs
@@weld-deluxltd7635 I just welded some wheels with spoolgun it’s pretty hard when you get towards the tip as it try’s to melt it away
Yes, everything requires a little bit of a stategy
@@weld-deluxltd7635 i stop towards the tip and and turn the heat down a tiny bit so i can build the edge without blowing out not sure if this is a good method but it works for me
@@weld-deluxltd7635 Could a laser welder be used??
I know this video was from a year ago but excellent video and repair! I got a laugh out of all your comments on using a 1mm cutoff wheel. I get it! UA-cam is full of trolls that find joy in watching video's just so they can call people out on any possible mistake and then the other trolls pile on. Super annoying. Or, somebody watches your video and then uses a cutoff wheel that fails (probably because they dropped their grinder) causing injury and then the finger gets pointed in your direction. Gotta cover your own ass, a lot of people these days don't want to take any personal responsibility. I'm with you, over 22 years experience as a heavy equipment tech, I've used a cutoff wheel countless times to grind/cut just like you are doing and I have never had one explode. I think it boils down to paying attention to the condition of the disc and being smart about the way it's used. If you grind only with the first couple millimeters of the leading edge you will be fine. You could run into some real trouble if you try to grind with the flat surface of the cutoff wheel, that's a no-go. On a side note: You should check out the grinding wheels that pipeline welders use. They are pretty thin and specifically made for cutting and grinding, I really like them (Norton I think). Anyway, great video, content and crack repair.
Thank you!
Facts my friend. Been in the welding game for over 3 years and haven't had one break on me yet
I built ally boats for 2 yrs, when you get used to using aluminium milling and cutting tungsten carbide blades its safer then metal grinding discs and alot faster .just got to have really good hand/eye control so it doesn't bite into the metal,hence the name meat axe 😃
Nothing fancy that’s a really nice weld
Thank you.
that's a good technical way fill in the crackz want have think about it damage the same area of the rim good job
Thank you
Este foi uns dos melhores trabalhos de recuperação que eu já assisti. Parabéns!!👍🇧🇷
What kind of welder are you using , I'm looking to buy one so I'm getting people's opinion on the kinds that work for them, thanks for the vid
Different people will have different requirements and needs.
To buy a welding machine, can be expensive, especially if you get the wrong type.
Start with making a list of your projects, where they located, what power supply is available, what metal you most likely to weld and at what sizes.
This will be a lot better approach the getting something that others used.
Finally, there is a video on this channel about choosing right welding machine, hop it helps
great skill and modest too! I enjoyed the excellent commentary.
Thank you
Try a blue filter for aluminum. ..
Interesting idea, I will try that in the future
When cutting or back grinding we use a 5” tungsten tipped saw blade in the grinder……. Removes the ally like you wouldn’t believe.
bloody nice job by the way, nice fronius machine too, if I’m not mistaken!
Thank you for the comment. I am terrified of those blades. Just a physiological thing for me but I do also use them mainly to cut sheets of AL.
@@weld-deluxltd7635 they are fearsome things to use, I personally use them on an air grinder but some of the guys at work use a standard 5” grinder…. Not me, and…… there was a young guy, just last week who works at Incat, Tore an absolute hole in his arm with one, it was so bad that they weren’t sure if he would keep his arm, real mess…… and apparently it wasn’t the first time he had done it but I’m pretty sure he will never do it again!!!
@@cosmiccolonel Hope he his ok after all!
you do beautiful work....most people i knew just threw away the rim , as there is not anyone here who repairs them
Thank you!
Wouldn't it be better if you use a burr set with a pneumatic tool? It's easier and you don't heat the piece up.
That is viable alternative
nice puddle shots. looks solid
Thanks! i am getting better at it 😀
The green side is far better to see the actual arc. This is helpful to me personally so I can judge the distance or gap I need to be from the puddle.
Thank you John!
once something is broken , it's broken . if you break a bone , it may heal but it's never as good as it was before it broke and never will be .
a repair is hit or miss that's why it's called a repair , not a fix . it's only a fix if it lasts . if it doesn't last you simply have to keep repairing it til it can't be repaired anymore .
Good Job. Puddling aluminium properly is a very hard skill to master. Ask me how I know...I made a complete mess of it.
Practice makes it perfect!
one thing he says about drilling a hole at the end of a crack IS NOT necessary. . . . ITS VERY NECESSARY. Cracks travel so you grind out beyond the crack about an inch or slightly more to the drilled hole then weld it all up . And remember it's not the weld that fails , it's the material around the weld . Welding may seal a crack or mend two pieces together but the material in general in the welded area is weakened . Expansion and contraction is a b*tch and it happens to ALL metals .
Thank you for your opinion
Certainly learnt something here, thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!