A most excellent video! I have the LE Walnut edition, so for anyone with one, the only thing necessary to remove the stock is the front screw in the forearm and the power adjuster wheel and the assembly under it.
Very well done, thank you for taking the time to do this work. The good, explaining the details that make this gun work, and being able to see what will need attention for maintenance, or troubleshooting. The problem, is knowing the complexity of this gun, and how complex the workings are and how many things can go wrong. Again, very well done. Be well Regards Chuck
Hey again! Thank you for this video too, Gregor! Cool that you are doing this!!! I once tried tuning the trigger according to your instructions, but it didn't really bring me any benefit. What I primarily criticize about the factory version is the very soft, spongy first stage, which comes from the weak spring on the trigger blade. What I did was add a stronger spring here so that the trigger has a lot of feedback on the first stage. I took 0.5x3x15. To do this, I have slightly widened the recess on the trigger blade. Of course, you have to compensate for the first stage pressure with the two rear adjustment screws, otherwise the shot will go off before the second stage. Depending on this, replace the return spring with a stronger one. Works best for me that way. Best regards, Georg
You are right that it feels a bit spongy, but I think that is mostly because in second stage it has another threshold (it is sort of "three stage" trigger). This is why I fully remove the first stage with the soft spring that you mentioned, and use that first part of what is supposed to be the second stage (that makes it spongy) as a first stage... This does make the new first stage relatively short and without spring adjustment it is also quite heavy for first stage... this is why I loosen the spring to have it lighter (or replace the spring for a weaker overall). To make clear, this is one of the springs in the back as in this case, original front first stage and spring is not used at all. This makes a perfect trigger for a semi auto gun for me... The reset is very short and the trigger is crisp on the second stage.
Hi- im having the problem you have described at 48:10 .. when i lift the lever it leaks slow and stops when i put down.. it slowly leaks overnight .. how to solve this without removing the magazine and and barrel?
You don't need to disassemble the gun at all to replace the oring but you do need to empty at lease the plenum, then remove the two screws that hold the plastic loading gate (I don't remember if you need to remove the stock to do that), under the gate, there is a brass screw. You need to remove it and then there will be one oring inside of that hole - you need to replace it (there is also one oring on the brass screw but that one is probably OK). The oring is 2.5 x 1 mm I believe and should be NBR 90.
Hi Gregor! I have a K1 of the first generation and i wonder what type of closing valve they used at the time. I live in Sweden so my Huben is constricted with a closing valve made of plastic witch in turn is pressed against the seat by a small spring between the power adjouster and valve????????? Simply put the rifle doesent work! I have seen most of your content regarding Huben so i understand you are fully capable about these things. I love your videos, they are so informative and goes deep into detail. Can you halp me? I hope you reed this! Best Regards Ola
Hi Gregor, my Huben K1 has developed a leak at the regulator. To access the problem point , I need to remove the silver-colored nut housing the pressure adjustment screw. However, I found that the nut is VERY tight. May I know if you have tried to remove it ?
I bought two k1 carbons. And one has a major slug clipping issue. Making it leak and misfire. I’m guessing the barrel is too far in? How do I back it off?
Hi! Could you please tell me where could I get my hands on the replacement for the O-ring for the piston at: 1:04:42? ua-cam.com/video/K0xgcZ5HWAs/v-deo.html Also what are the dimensions of your tools at 1:07:08? ua-cam.com/video/K0xgcZ5HWAs/v-deo.html Thanks!
Hello, maybe you could help me with an Information...i'm insecure about the arrangement of the regulator washers, and how much...huben spare parts names 28, you use 30, if i'm right!? I have 30 washers here too, and also I read of 27 washers...are there different regulator houses, or how it could be? And what's the right number...btw., your videos are great for diy help for the Huben! Greetz, Toby
Hi, neighbor. I never had a fixed 7.5 joule version in my hands. I believe (this is what I have heard form other people) that all you need to do is remove the stock and remove the plug that prevents you to access the regulator adjustment and that you need to purchase the power wheel part (the indexing part...). This way, you can adjust pressure and power.
Hi. I have gave the dimensions several time in the past but it depends on the gun version as some have smaller diameter of the rear side of the valve. I would suggest you ask Huben directly and let them know your serial number so they cal let you know exactly what you need...
Thanks for the demonstration. Maybe I'll get my K1 hydrodipped in the future and I was wondering how to take off the stock. This explaines it very well. Looks easy :-)
Hi .. thanks for the amaizing vedios ... can you make a vedio about what happens if you zero huben k1 on 50 yards then shoot at 20 yards,30, 40, up to 100 yards using huben pullets with full power... just so we know the trajectory. Thanks
Ali Murad . Take a look at the data at the end of video 2 on k1 v2. There is a screenshot from chairgun. I have it zeroed at 25 meters and i have to hold over 2,6 mil dots at 100 meters.
Indeed great video on huben, and its help.me alot to fix.mine,but still I m stuck at one point and need your help. With empty magazine my huben fires and run great but when ever I put pellets in magazine,its blow all air from barrel,seems its valve stuck some where. This is my 1st huben but I hv good knowledge abt pcp air rifles as I have lot of good brand rifles. Plz help.me Regds
What is the easiest way to install the new air tank gauge in the k1 v2? I know that I must empty the chamber tank but I would like to disassembly the less possible the gun.. I don't like to mess with the gun.
@@gregorkamensek3923 the question is how to empty the gun without disassembly the gun. Because I see in the videos that I must disassembly the gun to be able to empty it. How I empty the gun?
@@SurvivalMX Easy: First turn the regulator screw counter clock wise until the regulated chamber is empty. Then turn the regulator screw clockwise just enough for the air to start escaping out... Just wait about 10 - 20 minutes util all air comes out.
After about 190 shots, pulled trigger and the gun would not fire. Safety would not go all the way down. Reading the manual, if I understood it correctly, it said to release pressure until safety would work again. I released all the regulator pressure to zero and the safety then regained its full range of motion. Turn the pressure back up but the gun would still not fire. Any ideas? I don't want to have to send it back if it's an easy fix.
If you cannot engage the safety, that implies that the trigger sear did not catch the valve but that would also mean that the air would be leaking rapidly for the gun... If that is the case, it is possible that the trigger springs are too loose (the two set screws you can see just above butplate on the rear). But I doubt that is the case as you mention that the gun does not fire. I assume that the valve is stuck in a semi open position, enough that the air is still not leaking but not enough to open. You can try to fire with higher pressure, try to go up to 180 bars. It is also possible that there is some sort of trigger problem, maybe one of the sears broke so you cannot fire and also cannot put it on safe...
@@gregorkamensek3923 I degassed the regulator and that re-enabled the safety. Then, re-pressurized it to 17 MPa, but still doesn't fire. I'll try to get it up to a higher pressure like you suggest. I had not changed any of the settings from when I received it. No leaks from the gun at all. But thanks for your reply and help. I may have to return it for warranty work.
@@gregorkamensek3923 with no reply after several attempts and almost a week of trying to contact Huben, I thought I would take a chance to try and fix this myself. Saw a video from Kraz Cool on resetting the trigger. It was relatively simple and it did work for me. Thank you and Kraz Cool.
Gregor 1st of all - great Videos that you do, thx for sharing your knowledge and skills. I have one question, that I think i know the answer but want to be 100%sure. Could the closing valve be removed without draining the whole System? I think so, but maybe i did Catch something wrong.
You can drain only the regulated plenum by unscrewing the regulator down to zero (the regulator is designed to let the air out it self when you go down very far...). Note that this does put more stress to the regulator seal, but personally, I never had a problem with the regulator because of this and I do it all the time. I would suggest to take the stock off before you release the pressure though, once you have the stock off, just star unscrewing the regulator hex screw until the air bleeds to 0 on the regulator, then start disassembling the action...
Hi mate how are you doing Need your help my huben is bleeding air out of barrel as I fill it what do I have to do Last time I was have same problem I dismantled the valve both and the problem was solved and now after some shots same problem again started to bleed aur from the barrel
There are a lot of possibilites. It is possible that you are using too low pressure to shot. I would not recommend going under 120 bars (also make sure the pressure gauge is showing correct pressure). It is possible that the valve seal is damaged. And many other posibilities. How fast is the air leaking? Can you still fire a shot?
@@khilji74 So I guess you have a "fast leak". A few things are possible. It is possible that the trigger does not hole the valve closed. Did you adjust the second stage on the trigger on the rear side? if so, just make it a bit heavier (tighten the spring) and it will work. Next possibility is that the valve is stuck in the contracted position. To see this, you will need to remove the valve and try to extract it (try to pull the brass part of the valve out of the steel sleeve with hands - no tools!!! It should move out for about 3-5 mm and then stop). Next option is that the seal in the breach is damaged but if this is the problem, the damage must be significant in order for the leak to be so fast. Another option with the trigger is that the spring at the back of the valve behind the round part that engages the trigger is too weak to push the valve closed. There can be several reason for this, one is if the o-ring at the back of the valve is damaged and causes high friction, another is if the trigger sear has too much friction on that round part, another if the spring is too weak or broken,... In any case, be very carefully not do damage the breach / body as that is the only part that cannot be fixed (it can be replaced but it would be expensive I presume)... Good luck
The most important disassembly 0:00 until 17:00 How to reassembly the barrel and align the magazine probably 17:00 until 24:00 How to improve trigger first and second stage 24:00 to 31:00 he explains why he has not taken the action block apart so far 31:00 to 32:00 Explanation how to make the safety harder or lighter to configure 32:00 to 33:00 he explains how the magazine seal is working in the gun and why it is a good design even with Revolver like gap 33:00 to 35:00 Possible leak with the magazine and how to fix it in theory 35:00 to 37:00 Explanation how the magazine is working with the pin to set the stage for the next round and how the action is working several other explanations in this as well like how to remove the plastic part that makes sure no pellets can fall out from behind the magazine where the pellets are loaded 37:00 to 47:00 Possible leak he explains how the magazine rotation is working with the pin and that the pin can have a problem with an O-ring and several other possible leaks 47:00 to 52:00 Possible leak explanation that sometimes the regulator gauge can cause problems but it’s not the gauge it could be an O-ring inside 52:00 to 54:00 Possible leak explanation on how the power adjustment works with the brass part and why it is unlikely to fail but some O-rings are hard to replace in case of failure or a problem 54:00 to 57:00 It could be a failure but it’s very unlikely to have there a leak he explains exactly how the valve for the opening and the valve chamber is working in power adjustment and the plastic seal that is necessary in function before and after the shot 57:00 to 1:01:00 Possible catastrophic part failure if there is something wrong behind the back plate where the spring is in the opening valve and the explanation why it is almost impossible without huben or a retailer to get a replacement for it 1:01:00 to 1:06:00 Possible leak Inside the opening valve chamber there is an O-ring and a seal that can cause leaks but needs special tools to replace the O-rings correctly in place 1:06:00 to 1:08:00 Regulator chamber and high-pressure chamber explained a stage before anything else before how to depressurize the high-pressure chamber because the regulator should be not be under pressure anymore at this point for save disassembly or work 1:08:00 to 1:10:10 Regulator pressure can be adjusted by washers how to have more pressure but less precise regulation of the pressure or less pressure and more precise regulation of the pressure 1:10:10 to 1:14:00 There was a big part deleted I had the entire video made with timestamps there was a problem with UA-cam or some thing else I cannot do the last minutes now again this is very disappointing do you have to watch the last part for yourself for the regulator tube the high-pressure chamber and the regulator itself this is not good maybe I try to complete my comment later on again I wanted to make the video easier to watch for specific time reasons.
@@gregorkamensek3923 Yes of course and I would like to work with you for and in future content for information evolution and revolution of Airguns. The timestamps are made not absolutely perfect but I think they are going to help a lot and I tried to fix the last part when I have time today. I did work with MP molds it is like a year ago and a few months ago he is a really good guy and supported my experimentation for absolutely Lead free slugs for Airguns. It all started then that I contacted JSB and H&N and suggested my Idea. Environmental friendly Airgun shooting would be a possibility and even indoors for a good Price. A few months after that they had in mind to produce GTO get the lead out Lead Free Slugs for Airguns. This video showed up by UA-cam from a Airgun Show Presentation. m.ua-cam.com/video/3UIKMXEh1NE/v-deo.html There popped up a small article about leadfree Slugs as well I’ll send you the link for this as well. hardairmagazine.com/news/new-jsb-slugs-launched-at-2020-shot-show/ Read the article they will come in several sizes a guy from JSP Czechoslovakia Schulz a worker there told me at the end of summer they will be available for consumers but so far it got a delay as far as I know. Maybe you can get some GTO Slugs from JSB and test them with your UA-cam channel that would be really a good source and I think that Lead free is the future a little more cost but much more healthy. You can contact me here and we can share more if you like to you later on. I really like this kind of activity in free time and sport it is very peaceful and it is always calming me down Airguns Shooting Targets Safely is Awesome. Ayumi
@@rikaayumiinfinitelybroken6981 Thanks. I added the timestamps :) I have to admit that I am a lazy UA-camr, my main passion is physics in airguns, the channel is more of a gateway to be able to get my hands on special airguns and experiment with them :). Your help is very appreciated. :) I agree that lead free is the future for health as well as legislation reasons. I have reached to JSB and asked them for some samples...
Hi Gregor. Your videos are very good. Can I ask you something? I bought one. In my country, Argentina, there are no people who know the rifle. I made the mistake of trying with defective pellets. The charger was locked and all the air went out. The charger did not spin. I took it apart, took out the defective pellets and assembled it. But now, I connect the compressor and I can't load it. Lose air somewhere. Do you know what the problem may be? Give yourself, thank you very much.
@@sanjuan1234 OK, most likely, your main valve is leaking. If the leak is very bad, then it is highly likely that you have either reassembled it incorrectly or you damaged the opening valve seal. If you damaged the seal, then you really have a big problem. Another option is also if your trigger mechanism is not holding the valve closed. you can check this by trying to put the gun on "safe" when it it leaking - if it is not possible to do so, then the problem is in the trigger sear. In this case, check if both the trigger spring on the rear of the action are working.... If the leak is not very fast, then you can try to get the pressure of the reg high (for example to 180 bars) and then try to fire a few dry shots to see if it will seal... Let me know how it goes.
Hi Gregor! Great video, as always. I have a question about the k1. I've never disassembled it but the Weaver rail is misaligned with the barrel. My scope is at the end of the windage and I'm still hitting left of the center. How can I best fix this?
There are various ways to deal with this, but if the gun is shooting well, I would go with adjustable mounts as I would not advise disassembly if not necessary.
@@gregorkamensek3923 ok, thanks! I'll be getting myself a set of those. But just out of curiosity, what would some of the other ways to deal with this be?
@@tacticalbantha2511 First you would have to find what exactly is the reason for this misalignment and then solve it. For example, some scope rings are not accurately made or not made up to rail standards and this could be the reason, it can be that the rail is not aligned with the barrel, or maybe the gun when assembled was not properly aligned. A lot of bulpups have this problem as there are many points where barrel is fixed and can even cause for the barrel to be slightly under a tension or even bent... But I cannot say how to fix an issue without knowing the cause.
I have taken the airtube apart my Huben K1 ( version 2 ) and found that all the O-rings are surrounded by rubbery stuff like silicone sealant. It seems that they have added the stuff to make the seal better, may I know if you have seen the same thing in yours ?
Hi my friend Nice video as always My k1 version 5 is jumping from 910 feet per second to 950 Do you think that is reg problem? My set is reg at 150 bar and I am shooting h&n 25grain and jsb redesign
Hi. It may be the regulator but probably not. No regulator is perfect and because of this, you will get better results if you have your gun in appropriate balance. This means that your reg. pressure should be only as high to enable you to shoot the pellet you intend to shoot at just a little higher velocity than what you desire (for example, it you want ti to shoot at 950 fps, try to set the regulator value where with fully opened power wheel you get about 980 fps. Once you have done this, simply turn down the power wheel to get to 950 fps). You will probably have to go down with reg. pressure to about 120 bars to do so.
Yes, you are correct. The pressure is doing the indexing, this spring only returns the indexing pin to the next magazine "tooth". This means that this spring is compressed in stationary state, it gets uncompressed (it extends) during the shot once the pressure in the chamber behind the first valve drops, then the indexing pin catches on the next tooth of the magazine and once the pressure rises back up, the force of the pressure overcomes the force of this spring and it indexes the magazine in this process. This means that you can get the indexing mechanism to work at lover pressures if you replace this spring for a weaker one, but this is only a solution up to a certain point because ta very low pressures, the pressure might not be sufficient to overcome the force it is necessary to rotate the magazin alone (even without this spring counteracting on it...).
@@gregorkamensek3923 thank you Gregor, you are a mine of information, At some point I'll be running 15.89 Hades through my k1 lite and they don't like to much speed, I'll be setting the reg to around 100 bar, to 110, this may not affect the return spring but I just want to make sure, I take it the lighter gauge spring wire will still be fine at high pressure it will be a case of trial and error, I make my own springs from different gauge piano wire so I'll be able to mess around with different diameters untill I get it right. Thank you again. 👍
@@PeakyBlinder Of course, you can try and see. BTW: if the spring will be too week, it can happen that it does not have enough force to push the pin to the next magazine tooth and it might not cycle either... But you will see when you play around with it. I like the way you make springs, I have done similar few times before but usually form guitar strings (since I have those at home) :).
@@gregorkamensek3923 try piano wire, 2mm made a very good hammer spring for my cricket tactical, I'll let you know how.i get on with the k1 spring, I will measure the diameter of the original spring then drop maybe .2 of a millimetre.
Hi Greg , you are the huben master! You help a lot of people with your videos. I'm considering of buying one. Salutes bro!. Pd: queensryche t shirt may have helped in the golf ball challenge 😉
if you do that, then you have to give up one of the other great features, like semi-auto operation or power or efficiency. Huben gets its performance by having the valve right behind the pellet. That gives amazing efficiency and power (combined with other features).
Gregor Kamenšek I don't know if I'm expressing right. I mean a small chamber something like fire arms .Just a little with no grooves to avoid the alignment with the magazine, the pellet could pass the magazine enter at the barrel and then take the grooves. not talking about magazine and barrel alignment. Anyway huben design seems to work's perfect , you get an excellent accuracy. Thanks for your response and keep shooting!
Unfortunately that does not work well, I have tested it ;) The bullet must enter the grooves ASAP otherwise, the bullet will be damaged because it will hit the grooves with high velocity (initial acceleration is very big). The grooves in version 2 are there (at least that is what I think) only for pellets because pellets have smaller head that the size of the grooves and if there is no grooves in the magazine, the head would not be correctly aligned with the barrel...
Hai Mr. Gregor Videonya sungguh bagus n menginspirasi,,kira kira berapakah harganya untuk chambernya saja yg K1 master. Atau barang kali ada gambar detailnya chamber set Huben k1 n partnya master,,terima kasih.
Hi Gregor, After firing a shot with my Huben K1 ( version 2 ), the pressure gauge reading will instantaneously drop by about 20 bars and it will take about 10 seconds for it to restore the preset value, may I know if this is normal ? if not, what could be the cause ?
You have a problem with your regulator. This is a quite common problem with regulators. Replacing the regulator seal (plastic) will solve your problem.
Hi Greg again I already fixed it but there is another problem when I shoot the magazine jumps one in every shot when you finish shooting you look at the magazine and you could see one pellet and in between empty and on the side another pellet so the magazine skips one in each shot. What do you think it could be ? The mag is on the right side
I the tools have a very slight cones on some parts and they need to have a rough surface on the one that is for removing the seal. So it is not easy to measure and duplicate them. I also slightly modified them so they might not work for you...
Greeting Gregor I asked once if there was easy way to tell year of manufacture of Huben. I reached out to Huben and found that the serial number is a code. Gen 1 xx K1 xx xxxx x xx xx 1. Location source # 2. Model K1 3.Caliber 4. Year of mfg. 5. Stock color 6. Month of mfg. 7. Mfg sequence serial number Gen 2 cc-k1-yyyy-s-mm-dd-xxx 1. Caliber 2. Model (K1) 3. Year manufacture 4. Stock/color 5. Month of mfg 6. Day of mfg 7. Serial #. Position in mfg. This is direct from Huben. I hope this information help you out. Thank you for your outstanding videos
HI Gregor, thanks for the video which is what I need right now because my Huben K1 has developed a slow leak, about 2.5 bars per day. Just wondering if you have any thinking about the likely point of leakage ? thanks in advance.
Hi. I had a similar problem. These are quite hard to find. In the end I solved the problem when I disassembled the regulator and reassemble it, never really figuring out where exactly the actual leak was...
@@hubenk1 It is not the best option, but it might be the only one that enables you to find the leak... Huben actually suggests to submerge the gun in pure alcohol :) I have the gun with removed stock when I do that and I submerge only the part that I assume is leaking. I usually still disassemble the gun afterwards to make sure everything is dry... There are still a lot of steel parts that might rust (barrel in particular).
Hi gregor, i had a leak treu my barrel. I changed the firing valve seal and it still leaks. Its not the indexing pin becausz when i lift the lever up it still leaks. What could it be?
If the leak is through the barrel that the problem is still the firing valve seal. Maybe the new seal did not seat properly. Also possible is that you have some starches on the valve or the seal seat. These parts are very delicate and you should be very careful when you replace them and use only plastic tools (except for the replacement tool that is of course metal). But if that is the reason, then the leak is very slow... so my bet would be that the seal did not seat properly.
Hi gregor, is there a way to send you a picture from something weird in the chamber where the opening valve seal sits? Looks like something is sticking out. I tried a 2nd time to replace the seal and stil leaks verry hard treu the magazin/barrel when a shot is fired
hi sir i have made few request to you but none is replied so far..please spare sometime for huben lovers and oblige ..at present after dissembling and cleaning the complete gun i reassembled it and filled air...the air went out of the last hole on back of cylinder with regulator on...i mean the back of lower pressure part when still connected to regulator assembly...Should the main cylinder not hold the air in this case??and how should i go ahead please
Hi. The sizes are not the same (as I mentioned), so I would suggest that you contact Huben (huben(at)hubenairguns.com) and give them your serial number and they will tell you exactly what size of the tool you need. BTW: the tool has a complex contour (even though is looks simple) that is hard to measure, you would need to have a complete 3d drawing to be able to replicate it.
Hi Gregor, I have a problem. Recently I’ve been shooting the Huben K1 v2 but I hear a rattling sound as I shoot. Is it a problem with my setting between the power wheel and the pressure? Or the trigger adjustment? I’ve tried tinkering but it didn’t fix it. Any thoughts?
Is the rattling sound only when you shoot or also if you shake the gun. Is the sound present also when you dry fire the gun? Is the gun otherwise operating normally? The problem could be a lot of things and will be hard to find just through conversation.
Hi Gregor, once again a great video and very good info on the rifle, I'm from Chile South America and let me tell you that I just got a Huben K1 v2, I have an FX impact in .22 and .30 but I'm going to sell it and keep only the Huben, I think for the .22 caliber is a better gun. As you are the expert in Huben matters I need to ask some questions (there's no details or mention on any of your videos): - You said that the version 2 comes with a LW barrel 1:16 twist rate, but is it right hand or left hand twist ? - Is there any special caution to have when you adjust the regulator pressure or not ? - Is there any way to know how much air is left in the bottle ?, I only see the gauge on the side but as I know that gauge is only for the regulator operating pressure NOT for the pressure on the bottle (correct me if I'm wrong). One last thing only for information to other people I guess, the serial number ends with B0067 Thanks a lot, and do you have an email where I can contact you more directly?
It is a standard LW barrel. The twist is 450 mm and right hand. No special calculation. It is a trial and error process. But I would recommend pressure form 150 - 170 bar... Correct. K1 does not have a gauge on the non regulated sided, so you cannot know the pressure until it is under the regulated pressure... You can send you email address via private massage and I will contact you.
Hola Navarro Diaz, ya empecé con las pruebas de chrony y a probar distintos postones, envíame un mensaje privado y te doy mi correo, así podemos seguir en contacto más directo.
Hi again, sorry for frequent questions but... Do You have list of most Huben orings with its dimensions? I need to do some research in the market for supply, but first i must know what am I searching for :) Regards, Marcin
Went to use my huben today and noticed reg pressure was way down to 100’ish, filled it with air and hear a slow clicking coming from the dial, possibly a leak? If so where would it be coming from?
It’s definitely an issue and am very worried it’s a the VS, would compensate you if you can provide a VS and help as huben have gone dark and not had any comms with them
Hi, First: grats for very good information videos! :) Second: I have technical question... My Huben K1v2 stopped indeksing magazine. It is new. I shot only about 200 pellets... - Magazine just stopped rotate, withot any other symptoms. I didn't make any adjustements at the time. - I can rotate magazine (after lever rised) as well as before failure. - If I push some force to the magazine when I shot, I sense some force to rotate - so something there still try to work. - I checked many kombinations of velocity wheel, and pressure (120-180Bar), shot is good, but magazine wont rotate. Have You experience of that strange failure? Regards, Marcin
Most likely, the o-ring on the pin is damaged and it prevents the pin form moving (the 2,5 mm pin). 99% sure that is your problem... The only important thing form indexing the magazine (except if it is sucked) is regulated pressure. It is is too low (under about 120 bar) it should index no mater all other settings...
Thanks :) I carefully watched Your video, so i know this pin :) I send Huben to my distributor, because is almost brand new... But... in the future I have chance to fix problems by myself
Hi Can I contact you privately ? I live in South Africa . I am really interested in the Huben K1 pistol If you could possible help me . Also if you could tell me where we can get the Huben K1 version 2 newest bullets Thank you
@@syedhaider7628 That is most likely the main valve, also called "firing valve" or "opening valve". It is relatively complex to replace this seal and you need special tool to remove the old seal and insert the new one... Check this video: ua-cam.com/video/cxPiyMP7I5o/v-deo.html If at all possible, I suggest that you do not do this your self but rather you send it to service...
Just shot the huben after turning up the velocity. After two shots a burst of air came through the magazine and now it doesn’t shoot anymore. So going to watch this video to try and find out what’s broken
Did you have very low pressure when you did that? You must not have high power on the power wheel and use low pressure. The gun stops firing overall at about 90 bars but if you fully opened the gun at for example 110 bars, it could dump the air. So it is quite possible that nothing is wrong with the gun, just charge it back up and increase reg pressure or decrease the power wheel...
@@gregorkamensek3923 no it was attached to the bottle with 250 bar. I wanted to detach it and it wasn’t possible without letting the air out of the cilinder of the huben. So I emptied it. Didn’t have time to check it since then
@@gregorkamensek3923so I checked all o rings I could besides the regulator. I guess there is the malfunction. Everything works but I can’t deconnect the external air supply because then it just looses all its pressure and I have to bleed it all to zero pressure to be able to unplug the huben. I will check that another day
All seals seem to be good, couldn’t find anything. The barrel is empty. It does shoot but I can’t disconnect it from the bottle or all air blows out. It all started when I adjusted the powerwheel (probably wrong) in between shots
Hi Gregor I have finally received my Huben K1 mk 2 in 5.5 cal. unfortunately there is a slow air loss over a week .The supplier has offered to sell me a set of O rings for €29 euros .. the rifle is only new .. and I do not want to send it for making good .
This is an annoying situation. I know what I would do, I would try to fix it my self, but I cannot recommend this, it is up to you and your skills. Also, make sure with your supplier that your warranty is not void it you do this yourself...
@@gregorkamensek3923 Hi thank you for your advice .. I am an old 75 years super mechanic .. I have followed your videos for years and enjoy them . I have recently re O ringed a Weirauch H100 for a friend . I traced his air leak to the removable air cylinder O ring seal.. he originally returned his rifle to the dealer and the dealer claimed they sent the rifle to Germany.. He was without his rifle for over one year. I will use my Chinese compressor to refill my K1. It was a huge disappointment for the dealer Francisco . huben.spain@gmail.com who I have a €100 Euro credit with . I have asked him to send me some Huben solids and an O ring set to the value of my credit .. but he has not replied to my email. I am very pleased with the performance of my new K1. I have only fired three magazines of pellets but it is looking great. Where can I buy some Huben 33 grain bullets from . Francisco does not have any, he offered me JSB pellets ..I eventually ordered some FX Slugs from Huma-air. they supplied the four hundred hollow point slugs for €16 euros a card of 100. They shoot well . Very accurate .But easily effected with wind .
@@richardwallinger1683 In that case, I have no doubt that you will solve the leak issue yourself :) For slugs, you can start with "original" huben slugs: airgunheaven.com/en/huben-22-solidpellet-33-grains These don't look very good but are the most accurate of what you can buy of what I have tested. NSA has a dedicated slug for K1 that is a little more accurate but you will need to clean the barrel quite often as they are of a very soft material (maybe the have changed this by now) JSB Monster Redesigned works best out of all pellets, Beast also is quite OK but not stable at longer ranges. In the end you can also get molds I designed, you can find them here: www.mp-molds.com/product/552-mm-air-rifle-pellet-8-cav-mold/ If you are good with casting, you can get about the same results as with Huben slugs.
Yeah, it is quite thin. I have been trying to figur out if there are any significant harmonics because of this but all evidences seem to point that there are not significant problems. I am trying to determine the same thing for the .25 cal as the barrel is the same thickness...
Thanks for taking the time to made this video for us, you're awesome. Now, where can I purchase this gun from the US? Looks like it's not available yet? I am more interesting with the Huben pellets to test my old PCP guns.
You can find the distributors on Huben web page. Huben pellets should be available next year (i do not know when...). I don't have an appropriate alternative PCP to test them on, and I am also almost out (no more Huben pellets) :(
Hi Gregor, Today I am surprised to find three thin O-rings in the DIY silencer I made for my Huben ( version 2 ) . It must came from the rifle. I have done some dry firing with the rifle, is it possible for some of the O-rings to be blown out of the action ? if yes, where are these O-rings located ? Pls check out this picture and let me know what you think. imghst.co/71/m1Kt~lxAsK.jpg I have now taken the rifle apart so it is impossible for me to tell whether there are any leakage because of the lack of these O-rings. Thanks in advance.
These are probably form the shroud, in the plastic part that holds the barrel in place. to reinsert them, you will have to take the shroud off by fully removing the front clamp screw and loosen the rear two screws. When you have the shroud off, remove the muzzle cap, remove all the baffles (make sure you remember how they were assembled) and then push the plastic part out the front of the muzzle. Reinsert the o-rings in the plastic part and reassemble the gun...
Gregor Kamenšek got it ! Just Found three groves for the O-rings inside the barrel holding element at the front of the shroud. Back in business now. Many thanks !
Mr. Gregor, I had been watching all your video on Huber K1 V2 with so much excitement. After 3 months of watching (not everyday) I finally decided to please my order which you know it takes me almost 4 months of waiting and finally is here. Can’t wait for testing on the field.. My first question, how many shots can you get out of 1 filled of 300 bar pressure? Thank you. PS. Can I have your email address.
Hi. Shot count depends on the power you will use. No doubt that the best results will arrive by using slugs of about 35 grain shooting them at about 980 fps. With this setting, you will get at least 25 regulated shots (from 300 down to 170 bars) if you set you gun correctly. Send me a private massage and I will send you my email or just write your email and I will contact you.
This is the most common question I get (Huben vs. another conventional repeater with pellet pusher). I have answered it several times, and you can look up the answers but it comes down to if semi auto is important to you, if power is important to you and what projectiles (pellets or slugs) you want to shoot...
@@gregorkamensek3923 hi Gregor It was more of a tongue in cheek question as they are both excellent guns. I'm having a smooth barrel made for the cricket to allow the use of slugs. I'll let you know how I get on.
Hi Gregor. My friend just bought Huben V2 and after shooting over 100 times a failure has occured. The gun dumps the air in first or second shot. Power wheel in many positons and doesnt work as it should -energy is set to 105J of and the power wheel changes the energy just by 5 Jules. Regulator pressure was set between 170-180 bar. Help me please.:) heres link to my pal malfunctioning Huben. ua-cam.com/video/_z2Or6wJ-5k/v-deo.html Greetings from Poland.
Hi. Don't worry, this is perfectly normal. Actually that is exactly what I explained in my videos (I believe in video 2 for accuracy). The power wheel has 2 or 3 turns at the end where it has no effect is designed that way. All you need to do is turn the power down. Do it like this: have the power wheel fully opened and then start to turn it down. When you start to feel more resistance, then the power wheel is actually engaging the power setting. Keep on turning it down and pay attention at the gauge. Keep on turning it down until the velocity drops for about 5-10 m/s (in your case to about 295 m/s). That will eliminate your problem. You will also get much better efficiency... If you would like to have higher velocity, then just simply increase the pressure, but it makes no sense to go over 190 bars.
Hi Thanks for videos Very helpful in maintaining huben I have issue with huben k1 version 2 When taken shots it gives excessive air out of barrel Can you suggest where is issue Do you have any whatsap or contact number to talk pls
Hi. I assume you have too low pressure set on the regulator and too high setting on power wheel for the slugs you are using... you can give me your email...
@@gregorkamensek3923 thanks for reply , my email id w_a_m60@yahoo.com currently 170 bar reg presure and approx 30 clicks of power setting , some times it works fine some time its gives axcessive air , i have checked lil bit high clicks and lower , observed inconsistency , i mean some times works fine , and suddenly acessive air shot , at the time of issue , always main presure is around 300 bar , or 280 , please help out boss
@@haziqwaseem1547 It depends on the pellet / slug that you use. This problem occurs is teh slug is very heavy and / or has a lot of friction. What slugs are you using ? Weight, velocity, diameter?
@@gregorkamensek3923 slugs using 35 grain 5.56 in size .2185 approx 170 bar presure and 30 clicks out of 60 clicks Slugs are quite fit in magzin and slightly free in magazin with friction in magzin These are made here in pk with one of vendor who got equipment for making these slugs Pls suggest what can be issue 34 grain jsb used as well Same issues comes with pellets too I observed 1 thing when i dry fire 3 to 4 and then use slugs it works fine But after a day or 2 days when i take shot direct slugs normally happens that excessive air gone n loss presure in main chamer suddenly below 170 bar
A most excellent video! I have the LE Walnut edition, so for anyone with one, the only thing necessary to remove the stock is the front screw in the forearm and the power adjuster wheel and the assembly under it.
Самое подробное и лучшее видео про Хубен!
Огромное тебе спасибо за твой большой труд!
Здоровья и счастья тебе!
Very well done, thank you for taking the time to do this work. The good, explaining the details that make this gun work, and being able to see what will need attention for maintenance, or troubleshooting. The problem, is knowing the complexity of this gun, and how complex the workings are and how many things can go wrong.
Again, very well done.
Be well
Regards
Chuck
Thank you very much for the very good instruction. From this i can repair at my K1 . All the best for you George
Thanks Gregor for detailed works, very easy to follow and understand. Cheers.
Hey again! Thank you for this video too, Gregor! Cool that you are doing this!!! I once tried tuning the trigger according to your instructions, but it didn't really bring me any benefit. What I primarily criticize about the factory version is the very soft, spongy first stage, which comes from the weak spring on the trigger blade. What I did was add a stronger spring here so that the trigger has a lot of feedback on the first stage. I took 0.5x3x15. To do this, I have slightly widened the recess on the trigger blade. Of course, you have to compensate for the first stage pressure with the two rear adjustment screws, otherwise the shot will go off before the second stage. Depending on this, replace the return spring with a stronger one. Works best for me that way. Best regards, Georg
You are right that it feels a bit spongy, but I think that is mostly because in second stage it has another threshold (it is sort of "three stage" trigger). This is why I fully remove the first stage with the soft spring that you mentioned, and use that first part of what is supposed to be the second stage (that makes it spongy) as a first stage... This does make the new first stage relatively short and without spring adjustment it is also quite heavy for first stage... this is why I loosen the spring to have it lighter (or replace the spring for a weaker overall). To make clear, this is one of the springs in the back as in this case, original front first stage and spring is not used at all. This makes a perfect trigger for a semi auto gun for me... The reset is very short and the trigger is crisp on the second stage.
Incredible skill and knowledge, thank you so much for sharing it !!
Happy Christmas to you and yours Mr. Kamensek.
Thank you. Happy 2022 to you :)
Alright! It's about time I buy one of these Hubens. Now, if I have a problem with mine, I'll be able to have a chance to repair it myself.
Hi- im having the problem you have described at 48:10 .. when i lift the lever it leaks slow and stops when i put down.. it slowly leaks overnight .. how to solve this without removing the magazine and and barrel?
You don't need to disassemble the gun at all to replace the oring but you do need to empty at lease the plenum, then remove the two screws that hold the plastic loading gate (I don't remember if you need to remove the stock to do that), under the gate, there is a brass screw. You need to remove it and then there will be one oring inside of that hole - you need to replace it (there is also one oring on the brass screw but that one is probably OK). The oring is 2.5 x 1 mm I believe and should be NBR 90.
Hi Gregor!
I have a K1 of the first generation and i wonder what type of closing valve they used at the time.
I live in Sweden so my Huben is constricted with a closing valve made of plastic witch in turn is pressed against the seat by a small spring between
the power adjouster and valve?????????
Simply put the rifle doesent work!
I have seen most of your content regarding Huben so i understand you are fully capable about these things.
I love your videos, they are so informative and goes deep into detail.
Can you halp me?
I hope you reed this!
Best
Regards
Ola
Happy New Year to you and yours. Stay healthy and safe.
Thank you, and same to you as well :)
Hi Gregor, my Huben K1 has developed a leak at the regulator. To access the problem point , I need to remove the silver-colored nut housing the pressure adjustment screw. However, I found that the nut is VERY tight. May I know if you have tried to remove it ?
I bought two k1 carbons. And one has a major slug clipping issue. Making it leak and misfire. I’m guessing the barrel is too far in? How do I back it off?
Hi!
Could you please tell me where could I get my hands on the replacement for the O-ring for the piston at: 1:04:42?
ua-cam.com/video/K0xgcZ5HWAs/v-deo.html
Also what are the dimensions of your tools at 1:07:08?
ua-cam.com/video/K0xgcZ5HWAs/v-deo.html
Thanks!
hi gregor
Can you communicate the size of the tools to replace seal please ?
Hello, maybe you could help me with an Information...i'm insecure about the arrangement of the regulator washers, and how much...huben spare parts names 28, you use 30, if i'm right!? I have 30 washers here too, and also I read of 27 washers...are there different regulator houses, or how it could be? And what's the right number...btw., your videos are great for diy help for the Huben! Greetz, Toby
Hello Iam from Austria are there any instructions on how to turn the 7.5 joule version into the 100 joule?
Hi, neighbor. I never had a fixed 7.5 joule version in my hands. I believe (this is what I have heard form other people) that all you need to do is remove the stock and remove the plug that prevents you to access the regulator adjustment and that you need to purchase the power wheel part (the indexing part...). This way, you can adjust pressure and power.
@@gregorkamensek3923 thank you :)
@@coxer829 did it work?
Dear sir my gun leaks from muzzle and magazine.
Where to look for plz
Hi mate need to know the dimension of the special tools to take out the firing valve orings and fix them thanks and regards
Hi. I have gave the dimensions several time in the past but it depends on the gun version as some have smaller diameter of the rear side of the valve. I would suggest you ask Huben directly and let them know your serial number so they cal let you know exactly what you need...
Thanks for the demonstration. Maybe I'll get my K1 hydrodipped in the future and I was wondering how to take off the stock. This explaines it very well. Looks easy :-)
Send some pictures when/if you do it :)
Well done, and thnx for helping me further with my huben
I have Huben K1,its like a new.problem is Air is comming out of barrel.
Please guide me ,which seal/o-ring have to replaced.
Regds
Dear I have same problem if you have a solution but now plz
@@syedhaider7628 yes I solve this issue.
Hi .. thanks for the amaizing vedios ... can you make a vedio about what happens if you zero huben k1 on 50 yards then shoot at 20 yards,30, 40, up to 100 yards using huben pullets with full power... just so we know the trajectory. Thanks
Ali Murad . Take a look at the data at the end of video 2 on k1 v2. There is a screenshot from chairgun. I have it zeroed at 25 meters and i have to hold over 2,6 mil dots at 100 meters.
Indeed great video on huben, and its help.me alot to fix.mine,but still I m stuck at one point and need your help.
With empty magazine my huben fires and run great but when ever I put pellets in magazine,its blow all air from barrel,seems its valve stuck some where.
This is my 1st huben but I hv good knowledge abt pcp air rifles as I have lot of good brand rifles.
Plz help.me
Regds
Go to higher regulator pressure and close down the power wheel at least to 8 clicks from the minimum.
Hi Gregor 👋 great video thanks. Do you think removing the front barrel band increases accuracy?
Yes, that did help with gen 1 guns but form gen 2 on, it did not make any difference in my tests...
@Gregor Kamenšek excellent so I will leave it for durability as it only weighs 50 grams or so
How do you remove the endcap of the shroud?
I want to put on a supressor that I´ve bought but the endcap is screwed on extremely tight.
Yeah that is a challenge. Best is if you have pliers with plastic inserts not to damage the endcap.
What is the easiest way to install the new air tank gauge in the k1 v2? I know that I must empty the chamber tank but I would like to disassembly the less possible the gun.. I don't like to mess with the gun.
Empty the gun, unscrew the old end cap and screw in the new one with gauge... No need to disassemble anything.
@@gregorkamensek3923 the question is how to empty the gun without disassembly the gun. Because I see in the videos that I must disassembly the gun to be able to empty it. How I empty the gun?
@@SurvivalMX Easy: First turn the regulator screw counter clock wise until the regulated chamber is empty. Then turn the regulator screw clockwise just enough for the air to start escaping out... Just wait about 10 - 20 minutes util all air comes out.
@@gregorkamensek3923 got it. Thanks Gregor
After about 190 shots, pulled trigger and the gun would not fire. Safety would not go all the way down. Reading the manual, if I understood it correctly, it said to release pressure until safety would work again. I released all the regulator pressure to zero and the safety then regained its full range of motion. Turn the pressure back up but the gun would still not fire. Any ideas? I don't want to have to send it back if it's an easy fix.
If you cannot engage the safety, that implies that the trigger sear did not catch the valve but that would also mean that the air would be leaking rapidly for the gun... If that is the case, it is possible that the trigger springs are too loose (the two set screws you can see just above butplate on the rear). But I doubt that is the case as you mention that the gun does not fire. I assume that the valve is stuck in a semi open position, enough that the air is still not leaking but not enough to open. You can try to fire with higher pressure, try to go up to 180 bars.
It is also possible that there is some sort of trigger problem, maybe one of the sears broke so you cannot fire and also cannot put it on safe...
@@gregorkamensek3923 I degassed the regulator and that re-enabled the safety. Then, re-pressurized it to 17 MPa, but still doesn't fire. I'll try to get it up to a higher pressure like you suggest. I had not changed any of the settings from when I received it.
No leaks from the gun at all.
But thanks for your reply and help. I may have to return it for warranty work.
@@jimdoria7871 Probably best to return for warranty repair... Triggers on semi auto guns can be tricky...
@@gregorkamensek3923 with no reply after several attempts and almost a week of trying to contact Huben, I thought I would take a chance to try and fix this myself. Saw a video from Kraz Cool on resetting the trigger. It was relatively simple and it did work for me.
Thank you and Kraz Cool.
Gregor 1st of all - great Videos that you do, thx for sharing your knowledge and skills. I have one question, that I think i know the answer but want to be 100%sure.
Could the closing valve be removed without draining the whole System? I think so, but maybe i did Catch something wrong.
You can drain only the regulated plenum by unscrewing the regulator down to zero (the regulator is designed to let the air out it self when you go down very far...). Note that this does put more stress to the regulator seal, but personally, I never had a problem with the regulator because of this and I do it all the time. I would suggest to take the stock off before you release the pressure though, once you have the stock off, just star unscrewing the regulator hex screw until the air bleeds to 0 on the regulator, then start disassembling the action...
@@gregorkamensek3923 that makes sense, thanks so much!!!
Hi mate how are you doing
Need your help my huben is bleeding air out of barrel as I fill it what do I have to do
Last time I was have same problem I dismantled the valve both and the problem was solved and now after some shots same problem again started to bleed aur from the barrel
There are a lot of possibilites. It is possible that you are using too low pressure to shot. I would not recommend going under 120 bars (also make sure the pressure gauge is showing correct pressure). It is possible that the valve seal is damaged. And many other posibilities. How fast is the air leaking? Can you still fire a shot?
@@gregorkamensek3923 my reg pressure is 140 bar and I can't shoot it
@@khilji74 So I guess you have a "fast leak". A few things are possible. It is possible that the trigger does not hole the valve closed. Did you adjust the second stage on the trigger on the rear side? if so, just make it a bit heavier (tighten the spring) and it will work. Next possibility is that the valve is stuck in the contracted position. To see this, you will need to remove the valve and try to extract it (try to pull the brass part of the valve out of the steel sleeve with hands - no tools!!! It should move out for about 3-5 mm and then stop). Next option is that the seal in the breach is damaged but if this is the problem, the damage must be significant in order for the leak to be so fast. Another option with the trigger is that the spring at the back of the valve behind the round part that engages the trigger is too weak to push the valve closed. There can be several reason for this, one is if the o-ring at the back of the valve is damaged and causes high friction, another is if the trigger sear has too much friction on that round part, another if the spring is too weak or broken,... In any case, be very carefully not do damage the breach / body as that is the only part that cannot be fixed (it can be replaced but it would be expensive I presume)... Good luck
The most important disassembly 0:00 until 17:00
How to reassembly the barrel and align the magazine probably 17:00 until 24:00
How to improve trigger first and second stage 24:00 to 31:00
he explains why he has not taken the action block apart so far 31:00 to 32:00
Explanation how to make the safety harder or lighter to configure 32:00 to 33:00
he explains how the magazine seal is working in the gun and why it is a good design even with Revolver like gap 33:00 to 35:00
Possible leak with the magazine and how to fix it in theory 35:00 to 37:00
Explanation how the magazine is working with the pin to set the stage for the next round and how the action is working several other explanations in this as well like how to remove the plastic part that makes sure no pellets can fall out from behind the magazine where the pellets are loaded 37:00 to 47:00
Possible leak he explains how the magazine rotation is working with the pin and that the pin can have a problem with an O-ring and several other possible leaks 47:00 to 52:00
Possible leak explanation that sometimes the regulator gauge can cause problems but it’s not the gauge it could be an O-ring inside 52:00 to 54:00
Possible leak explanation on how the power adjustment works with the brass part and why it is unlikely to fail but some O-rings are hard to replace in case of failure or a problem 54:00 to 57:00
It could be a failure but it’s very unlikely to have there a leak he explains exactly how the valve for the opening and the valve chamber is working in power adjustment and the plastic seal that is necessary in function before and after the shot 57:00 to 1:01:00
Possible catastrophic part failure if there is something wrong behind the back plate where the spring is in the opening valve and the explanation why it is almost impossible without huben or a retailer to get a replacement for it 1:01:00 to 1:06:00
Possible leak Inside the opening valve chamber there is an O-ring and a seal that can cause leaks but needs special tools to replace the O-rings correctly in place 1:06:00 to 1:08:00
Regulator chamber and high-pressure chamber explained a stage before anything else before how to depressurize the high-pressure chamber because the regulator should be not be under pressure anymore at this point for save disassembly or work 1:08:00 to 1:10:10
Regulator pressure can be adjusted by washers how to have more pressure but less precise regulation of the pressure or less pressure and more precise regulation of the pressure 1:10:10 to 1:14:00
There was a big part deleted
I had the entire video made with timestamps there was a problem with UA-cam or some thing else I cannot do the last minutes now again this is very disappointing do you have to watch the last part for yourself for the regulator tube the high-pressure chamber and the regulator itself this is not good maybe I try to complete my comment later on again I wanted to make the video easier to watch for specific time reasons.
Hi. Would you mind if I put your timestamps in the video description? I really appreciate your work... :)
@@gregorkamensek3923
Yes of course and I would like to work with you for and in future content for information evolution and revolution of Airguns.
The timestamps are made not absolutely perfect but I think they are going to help a lot and I tried to fix the last part when I have time today.
I did work with MP molds it is like a year ago and a few months ago he is a really good guy and supported my experimentation for absolutely Lead free slugs for Airguns.
It all started then that I contacted JSB and H&N and suggested my Idea.
Environmental friendly Airgun shooting would be a possibility and even indoors for a good Price.
A few months after that they had in mind to produce GTO get the lead out Lead Free Slugs for Airguns.
This video showed up by UA-cam from a Airgun Show Presentation.
m.ua-cam.com/video/3UIKMXEh1NE/v-deo.html
There popped up a small article about leadfree Slugs as well I’ll send you the link for this as well.
hardairmagazine.com/news/new-jsb-slugs-launched-at-2020-shot-show/
Read the article they will come in several sizes a guy from JSP Czechoslovakia Schulz a worker there told me at the end of summer they will be available for consumers but so far it got a delay as far as I know.
Maybe you can get some GTO Slugs from JSB and test them with your UA-cam channel that would be really a good source and I think that Lead free is the future a little more cost but much more healthy.
You can contact me here and we can share more if you like to you later on.
I really like this kind of activity in free time and sport it is very peaceful and it is always calming me down Airguns Shooting Targets Safely is Awesome.
Ayumi
@@rikaayumiinfinitelybroken6981 Thanks. I added the timestamps :)
I have to admit that I am a lazy UA-camr, my main passion is physics in airguns, the channel is more of a gateway to be able to get my hands on special airguns and experiment with them :). Your help is very appreciated. :)
I agree that lead free is the future for health as well as legislation reasons. I have reached to JSB and asked them for some samples...
Fantastic Video great explanation well done
Hi,
Really you do very good think. Thank you for that. Either i don't have a huben, but watching it was pleasure for me.
Thank you
Thank you Gregor for helpfull video.i need your help but i dont know how to contact u.
Hi Gregor,
do you know which size the o-ring for the pressure gauge has?
I believe it is NBR70 1x1.5 mm
Hi Gregor. Your videos are very good. Can I ask you something? I bought one. In my country, Argentina, there are no people who know the rifle. I made the mistake of trying with defective pellets. The charger was locked and all the air went out. The charger did not spin. I took it apart, took out the defective pellets and assembled it. But now, I connect the compressor and I can't load it. Lose air somewhere. Do you know what the problem may be? Give yourself, thank you very much.
Hi.
Do you know where the air is leaking form?
@@gregorkamensek3923 hi. The magazine
@@sanjuan1234 OK, most likely, your main valve is leaking.
If the leak is very bad, then it is highly likely that you have either reassembled it incorrectly or you damaged the opening valve seal. If you damaged the seal, then you really have a big problem. Another option is also if your trigger mechanism is not holding the valve closed. you can check this by trying to put the gun on "safe" when it it leaking - if it is not possible to do so, then the problem is in the trigger sear. In this case, check if both the trigger spring on the rear of the action are working....
If the leak is not very fast, then you can try to get the pressure of the reg high (for example to 180 bars) and then try to fire a few dry shots to see if it will seal...
Let me know how it goes.
Hi Gregor! Great video, as always.
I have a question about the k1. I've never disassembled it but the Weaver rail is misaligned with the barrel. My scope is at the end of the windage and I'm still hitting left of the center. How can I best fix this?
There are various ways to deal with this, but if the gun is shooting well, I would go with adjustable mounts as I would not advise disassembly if not necessary.
@@gregorkamensek3923 ok, thanks! I'll be getting myself a set of those. But just out of curiosity, what would some of the other ways to deal with this be?
@@tacticalbantha2511 First you would have to find what exactly is the reason for this misalignment and then solve it. For example, some scope rings are not accurately made or not made up to rail standards and this could be the reason, it can be that the rail is not aligned with the barrel, or maybe the gun when assembled was not properly aligned. A lot of bulpups have this problem as there are many points where barrel is fixed and can even cause for the barrel to be slightly under a tension or even bent... But I cannot say how to fix an issue without knowing the cause.
I have taken the airtube apart my Huben K1 ( version 2 ) and found that all the O-rings are surrounded by rubbery stuff like silicone sealant. It seems that they have added the stuff to make the seal better, may I know if you have seen the same thing in yours ?
No, I have not... On all my K1s there is only silicon grease on by the o-rings, noting else...
Hi my friend
Nice video as always
My k1 version 5 is jumping from 910 feet per second to 950
Do you think that is reg problem?
My set is reg at 150 bar and I am shooting h&n 25grain and jsb redesign
Hi. It may be the regulator but probably not. No regulator is perfect and because of this, you will get better results if you have your gun in appropriate balance. This means that your reg. pressure should be only as high to enable you to shoot the pellet you intend to shoot at just a little higher velocity than what you desire (for example, it you want ti to shoot at 950 fps, try to set the regulator value where with fully opened power wheel you get about 980 fps. Once you have done this, simply turn down the power wheel to get to 950 fps). You will probably have to go down with reg. pressure to about 120 bars to do so.
Hi Gregor, do you know where can I find the data of all the oring size? I need to buy a set of them that I'll be able to repair my huben. Thanks!
You should contact Huben... usually order the o-rings that I need when I disassemble and see the ones that are damaged.
Thanks for answering
gregor at 45:47 is that the spring you change if you are running a low reg pressure to aid low pressure indexing ?
Yes, you are correct. The pressure is doing the indexing, this spring only returns the indexing pin to the next magazine "tooth". This means that this spring is compressed in stationary state, it gets uncompressed (it extends) during the shot once the pressure in the chamber behind the first valve drops, then the indexing pin catches on the next tooth of the magazine and once the pressure rises back up, the force of the pressure overcomes the force of this spring and it indexes the magazine in this process. This means that you can get the indexing mechanism to work at lover pressures if you replace this spring for a weaker one, but this is only a solution up to a certain point because ta very low pressures, the pressure might not be sufficient to overcome the force it is necessary to rotate the magazin alone (even without this spring counteracting on it...).
@@gregorkamensek3923 thank you Gregor, you are a mine of information,
At some point I'll be running 15.89 Hades through my k1 lite and they don't like to much speed,
I'll be setting the reg to around 100 bar, to 110, this may not affect the return spring but I just want to make sure,
I take it the lighter gauge spring wire will still be fine at high pressure it will be a case of trial and error,
I make my own springs from different gauge piano wire so I'll be able to mess around with different diameters untill I get it right.
Thank you again.
👍
@@PeakyBlinder Of course, you can try and see. BTW: if the spring will be too week, it can happen that it does not have enough force to push the pin to the next magazine tooth and it might not cycle either... But you will see when you play around with it. I like the way you make springs, I have done similar few times before but usually form guitar strings (since I have those at home) :).
@@gregorkamensek3923 try piano wire, 2mm made a very good hammer spring for my cricket tactical,
I'll let you know how.i get on with the k1 spring,
I will measure the diameter of the original spring then drop maybe .2 of a millimetre.
Hi Greg , you are the huben master! You help a lot of people with your videos. I'm considering of buying one. Salutes bro!.
Pd: queensryche t shirt may have helped in the golf ball challenge 😉
You are right about Queensryche t shirt :)
Gregor Kamenšek
Wy huben not made a chamber in the barrel?
They don't have to make a grooved magazine and complicated alignment
if you do that, then you have to give up one of the other great features, like semi-auto operation or power or efficiency. Huben gets its performance by having the valve right behind the pellet. That gives amazing efficiency and power (combined with other features).
Gregor Kamenšek
I don't know if I'm expressing right. I mean a small chamber something like fire arms .Just a little with no grooves to avoid the alignment with the magazine, the pellet could pass the magazine enter at the barrel and then take the grooves. not talking about magazine and barrel alignment.
Anyway huben design seems to work's perfect , you get an excellent accuracy.
Thanks for your response and keep shooting!
Unfortunately that does not work well, I have tested it ;) The bullet must enter the grooves ASAP otherwise, the bullet will be damaged because it will hit the grooves with high velocity (initial acceleration is very big). The grooves in version 2 are there (at least that is what I think) only for pellets because pellets have smaller head that the size of the grooves and if there is no grooves in the magazine, the head would not be correctly aligned with the barrel...
Hai Mr. Gregor
Videonya sungguh bagus n menginspirasi,,kira kira berapakah harganya untuk chambernya saja yg K1 master. Atau barang kali ada gambar detailnya chamber set Huben k1 n partnya master,,terima kasih.
Google translate is not the best, but I get parts for K1 here: www.hubenairguns.shop/collections/parts
You may want to contact Huben directly as well.
Hi Gregor, After firing a shot with my Huben K1 ( version 2 ), the pressure gauge reading will instantaneously drop by about 20 bars and it will take about 10 seconds for it to restore the preset value, may I know if this is normal ? if not, what could be the cause ?
You have a problem with your regulator. This is a quite common problem with regulators. Replacing the regulator seal (plastic) will solve your problem.
Hi Greg again I already fixed it but there is another problem when I shoot the magazine jumps one in every shot when you finish shooting you look at the magazine and you could see one pellet and in between empty and on the side another pellet so the magazine skips one in each shot. What do you think it could be ? The mag is on the right side
Check all the indexing springs. This happened to me once and it was a broken flat spring.
@@gregorkamensek3923 ok Greg yes I'm going to check them out thank you very much
Hi Gregor,
Can you sent me the exactly size of the two tools huben send to you for replace the seal so I can fabricate them.
Thank you very much
I the tools have a very slight cones on some parts and they need to have a rough surface on the one that is for removing the seal. So it is not easy to measure and duplicate them. I also slightly modified them so they might not work for you...
@@gregorkamensek3923 Ok, thank you anyway
I followed your video and when I removed the air tube the air drained with a loud popping sound
You are going to have to be more specific...
Also is 3in1 oil good for the mechanism around the safety
fine for triggers & related parts but never get it into the fill valve , sewing machine oil even better for triggers.
Greeting Gregor
I asked once if there was easy way to tell year of manufacture of Huben. I reached out to Huben and found that the serial number is a code.
Gen 1
xx K1 xx xxxx x xx xx
1. Location source #
2. Model K1
3.Caliber
4. Year of mfg.
5. Stock color
6. Month of mfg.
7. Mfg sequence serial number
Gen 2
cc-k1-yyyy-s-mm-dd-xxx
1. Caliber
2. Model (K1)
3. Year manufacture
4. Stock/color
5. Month of mfg
6. Day of mfg
7. Serial #. Position in mfg.
This is direct from Huben. I hope this information help you out. Thank you for your outstanding videos
Hi. Thanks, I will keep that. I was told some time back that there is no order to the serials so I am curios if this applies to my K1s.
@@gregorkamensek3923 yes is does apply to Gen 1. The caliber is after the K1 then year. The # before the K1 is a source code
@@kevintravis2154 OK, great. Thanks for the info.
HI Gregor, thanks for the video which is what I need right now because my Huben K1 has developed a slow leak, about 2.5 bars per day. Just wondering if you have any thinking about the likely point of leakage ? thanks in advance.
Hi. I had a similar problem. These are quite hard to find. In the end I solved the problem when I disassembled the regulator and reassemble it, never really figuring out where exactly the actual leak was...
@@gregorkamensek3923 Thanks Gregor, I will try to do the same. hope the problem is is not inside the action which seems to be very complicated.
Is it safe to submerge the entire gun in water with pressure to help identify the leak by seeing the tiny bubbles ?
@@gregorkamensek3923 see
@@hubenk1 It is not the best option, but it might be the only one that enables you to find the leak... Huben actually suggests to submerge the gun in pure alcohol :) I have the gun with removed stock when I do that and I submerge only the part that I assume is leaking. I usually still disassemble the gun afterwards to make sure everything is dry... There are still a lot of steel parts that might rust (barrel in particular).
How do you recrown a barrel?
I recrown on lather by entering the bore and then make a very shallow 60° crown.
Hi gregor, i had a leak treu my barrel. I changed the firing valve seal and it still leaks. Its not the indexing pin becausz when i lift the lever up it still leaks. What could it be?
If the leak is through the barrel that the problem is still the firing valve seal. Maybe the new seal did not seat properly. Also possible is that you have some starches on the valve or the seal seat. These parts are very delicate and you should be very careful when you replace them and use only plastic tools (except for the replacement tool that is of course metal). But if that is the reason, then the leak is very slow... so my bet would be that the seal did not seat properly.
Hi gregor, is there a way to send you a picture from something weird in the chamber where the opening valve seal sits? Looks like something is sticking out. I tried a 2nd time to replace the seal and stil leaks verry hard treu the magazin/barrel when a shot is fired
@@klane7 You can give me your email...
kleine_lauwe@hotmail.com
I have sale problem
hi sir i have made few request to you but none is replied so far..please spare sometime for huben lovers and oblige ..at present after dissembling and cleaning the complete gun i reassembled it and filled air...the air went out of the last hole on back of cylinder with regulator on...i mean the back of lower pressure part when still connected to regulator assembly...Should the main cylinder not hold the air in this case??and how should i go ahead please
my e mail address plz....hder834@yahoo.com.....plz reply for guidance
please share the sizes of tool you promised
Hi. The sizes are not the same (as I mentioned), so I would suggest that you contact Huben (huben(at)hubenairguns.com) and give them your serial number and they will tell you exactly what size of the tool you need. BTW: the tool has a complex contour (even though is looks simple) that is hard to measure, you would need to have a complete 3d drawing to be able to replicate it.
Whats the plenum volume of the regulated chamber?
It is hard to say exactly as K1 has some inner body volume that is added to the plenum... My rough estimation is about 50 - 55 cc
@@gregorkamensek3923 : Thanks, I asked because i'm trying to draw it.
www.airgunnation.com/topic/reverse-engineered-huben-k1/
Hi Gregor, I have a problem. Recently I’ve been shooting the Huben K1 v2 but I hear a rattling sound as I shoot. Is it a problem with my setting between the power wheel and the pressure? Or the trigger adjustment? I’ve tried tinkering but it didn’t fix it. Any thoughts?
Is the rattling sound only when you shoot or also if you shake the gun. Is the sound present also when you dry fire the gun? Is the gun otherwise operating normally? The problem could be a lot of things and will be hard to find just through conversation.
Gregor Kamenšek it makes the sound only when I shoot a bullet or dry shoot. What could it possibly be you think?
@@Komunika00 I cannot set only by this description.
Hi Gregor, once again a great video and very good info on the rifle, I'm from Chile South America and let me tell you that I just got a Huben K1 v2, I have an FX impact in .22 and .30 but I'm going to sell it and keep only the Huben, I think for the .22 caliber is a better gun. As you are the expert in Huben matters I need to ask some questions (there's no details or mention on any of your videos):
- You said that the version 2 comes with a LW barrel 1:16 twist rate, but is it right hand or left hand twist ?
- Is there any special caution to have when you adjust the regulator pressure or not ?
- Is there any way to know how much air is left in the bottle ?, I only see the gauge on the side but as I know that gauge is only for the regulator operating pressure NOT for the pressure on the bottle (correct me if I'm wrong).
One last thing only for information to other people I guess, the serial number ends with B0067
Thanks a lot, and do you have an email where I can contact you more directly?
It is a standard LW barrel. The twist is 450 mm and right hand.
No special calculation. It is a trial and error process. But I would recommend pressure form 150 - 170 bar...
Correct. K1 does not have a gauge on the non regulated sided, so you cannot know the pressure until it is under the regulated pressure...
You can send you email address via private massage and I will contact you.
Gregor Kamenšek thank for everything Gregor I will send you my email, I just started pellet and velocity testing I'll let you know my findings
Hola Navarro Diaz, ya empecé con las pruebas de chrony y a probar distintos postones, envíame un mensaje privado y te doy mi correo, así podemos seguir en contacto más directo.
Navarro Diaz Hola, intenta google+, google Hangouts o google allo, por último facebook Alejandro Rene Ortiz Salas
Aún no me ha llegado nada estimado,
Hi. Magazine insurance moves but does not lock. What can be?
Check the upper wheel. The spring might be damaged or broken...
To be honest ... is a rifle that more dislikes than satisfactions?
'cause is broken 4 2nd time in a month
Hi again, sorry for frequent questions but... Do You have list of most Huben orings with its dimensions? I need to do some research in the market for supply, but first i must know what am I searching for :)
Regards, Marcin
Sorry, no I don't.
Went to use my huben today and noticed reg pressure was way down to 100’ish, filled it with air and hear a slow clicking coming from the dial, possibly a leak? If so where would it be coming from?
Where did you hear the leak, near to which dial?
Gregor Kamenšek the regulator gauge there is a slow clicking but I dry fired till around 100bar then re filled, seems to have resolved the issue
Gregor Kamenšek do you have email I could send a 9 second video highlighting sound and location?
It’s definitely an issue and am very worried it’s a the VS, would compensate you if you can provide a VS and help as huben have gone dark and not had any comms with them
If easier can you email me on londonvermincontrol@gmail.com if not wanting to post email publicly
Excellent info, thank you!
Hi Gregor! Which is twist rate on version2, and who made this barrel? Thanks!
Lothar Walther, 416 mm
I'm wondering what is the difference between V2 gen3 gen4 gen5?
Huben is constanty improving K1 but I am not sure what change goes with a certain gen...
Thank you for answering
Hi,
First: grats for very good information videos! :)
Second: I have technical question... My Huben K1v2 stopped indeksing magazine.
It is new. I shot only about 200 pellets...
- Magazine just stopped rotate, withot any other symptoms. I didn't make any adjustements at the time.
- I can rotate magazine (after lever rised) as well as before failure.
- If I push some force to the magazine when I shot, I sense some force to rotate - so something there still try to work.
- I checked many kombinations of velocity wheel, and pressure (120-180Bar), shot is good, but magazine wont rotate.
Have You experience of that strange failure?
Regards,
Marcin
Most likely, the o-ring on the pin is damaged and it prevents the pin form moving (the 2,5 mm pin). 99% sure that is your problem... The only important thing form indexing the magazine (except if it is sucked) is regulated pressure. It is is too low (under about 120 bar) it should index no mater all other settings...
Thanks :)
I carefully watched Your video, so i know this pin :)
I send Huben to my distributor, because is almost brand new...
But... in the future I have chance to fix problems by myself
Thank you for your instructions !
Thnx, it helpt me to fix my Huben.
Great video. Thanks for sharing!
Wish I had the courage and skills to do this!
Hello, nice video, great done.
Thanks.
Pliz can you make the same video with lcs aa sk19, can you give the o rings sizes))
Thanks
Happy New year 2022
Happy new year to you as well. I don't have SK19...
Hi Gregor is the twist rate on the mkii 18.5?
1:16,4"
Gregor Kamenšek perfect thank you
Hello, this is huben k1 0.22 2006 version. I need accessories maintenance. I want to order some accessories. Please reply, thank you!
2016
@@李丽-l9n Thanks for the info. You should contact Huben for accessories.
Your situation is the same as mine. Can I give you contact information?
@@尼古拉斯-f3c Of course...
@@李丽-l9n telegram @hazidapao
Hi, do you have the oring specs?
I have for some, but not all.
Hi
Can I contact you privately ?
I live in South Africa .
I am really interested in the Huben K1 pistol If you could possible help me .
Also if you could tell me where we can get the Huben K1 version 2 newest bullets
Thank you
Hi. You can either let me know your email or contact me via private message.
@@gregorkamensek3923 dear sir I have seen all your videos for hours.
Plz help me. My gun leaks from muzzle and magazine
Thanks sir
@@syedhaider7628 That is most likely the main valve, also called "firing valve" or "opening valve". It is relatively complex to replace this seal and you need special tool to remove the old seal and insert the new one... Check this video: ua-cam.com/video/cxPiyMP7I5o/v-deo.html
If at all possible, I suggest that you do not do this your self but rather you send it to service...
sir..i won this air rifle..how to make it
Just shot the huben after turning up the velocity. After two shots a burst of air came through the magazine and now it doesn’t shoot anymore. So going to watch this video to try and find out what’s broken
Did you have very low pressure when you did that? You must not have high power on the power wheel and use low pressure. The gun stops firing overall at about 90 bars but if you fully opened the gun at for example 110 bars, it could dump the air. So it is quite possible that nothing is wrong with the gun, just charge it back up and increase reg pressure or decrease the power wheel...
@@gregorkamensek3923 no it was attached to the bottle with 250 bar. I wanted to detach it and it wasn’t possible without letting the air out of the cilinder of the huben. So I emptied it. Didn’t have time to check it since then
@@gregorkamensek3923so I checked all o rings I could besides the regulator. I guess there is the malfunction. Everything works but I can’t deconnect the external air supply because then it just looses all its pressure and I have to bleed it all to zero pressure to be able to unplug the huben. I will check that another day
All seals seem to be good, couldn’t find anything. The barrel is empty. It does shoot but I can’t disconnect it from the bottle or all air blows out.
It all started when I adjusted the powerwheel (probably wrong) in between shots
Where is this K1 made???
China
我想买图纸
Price pls
www.hubenairguns.shop/
@@gregorkamensek3923 how can I buy huben air rifle??
@@gregorkamensek3923 how can I buy huben air rifle??
Hi Gregor I have finally received my Huben K1 mk 2 in 5.5 cal. unfortunately there is a slow air loss over a week .The supplier has offered to sell me a set of O rings for €29 euros .. the rifle is only new .. and I do not want to send it for making good .
This is an annoying situation. I know what I would do, I would try to fix it my self, but I cannot recommend this, it is up to you and your skills. Also, make sure with your supplier that your warranty is not void it you do this yourself...
@@gregorkamensek3923 Hi thank you for your advice .. I am an old 75 years super mechanic .. I have followed your videos for years and enjoy them . I have recently re O ringed a Weirauch H100 for a friend . I traced his air leak to the removable air cylinder O ring seal.. he originally returned his rifle to the dealer and the dealer claimed they sent the rifle to Germany.. He was without his rifle for over one year. I will use my Chinese compressor to refill my K1. It was a huge disappointment for the dealer Francisco . huben.spain@gmail.com who I have a €100 Euro credit with . I have asked him to send me some Huben solids and an O ring set to the value of my credit .. but he has not replied to my email. I am very pleased with the performance of my new K1. I have only fired three magazines of pellets but it is looking great. Where can I buy some Huben 33 grain bullets from . Francisco does not have any, he offered me JSB pellets ..I eventually ordered some FX Slugs from Huma-air. they supplied the four hundred hollow point slugs for €16 euros a card of 100. They shoot well . Very accurate .But easily effected with wind .
@@richardwallinger1683 In that case, I have no doubt that you will solve the leak issue yourself :)
For slugs, you can start with "original" huben slugs: airgunheaven.com/en/huben-22-solidpellet-33-grains
These don't look very good but are the most accurate of what you can buy of what I have tested.
NSA has a dedicated slug for K1 that is a little more accurate but you will need to clean the barrel quite often as they are of a very soft material (maybe the have changed this by now)
JSB Monster Redesigned works best out of all pellets, Beast also is quite OK but not stable at longer ranges.
In the end you can also get molds I designed, you can find them here: www.mp-molds.com/product/552-mm-air-rifle-pellet-8-cav-mold/
If you are good with casting, you can get about the same results as with Huben slugs.
Great job sir!!! That barrel sims to be so thin
Yeah, it is quite thin. I have been trying to figur out if there are any significant harmonics because of this but all evidences seem to point that there are not significant problems. I am trying to determine the same thing for the .25 cal as the barrel is the same thickness...
So good shooter
Thanks for taking the time to made this video for us, you're awesome.
Now, where can I purchase this gun from the US? Looks like it's not available yet? I am more interesting with the Huben pellets to test my old PCP guns.
You can find the distributors on Huben web page. Huben pellets should be available next year (i do not know when...). I don't have an appropriate alternative PCP to test them on, and I am also almost out (no more Huben pellets) :(
I did look it up, but still can't find the pellets on the US distributors. I check back few months later then. Thanks.
O, sorry, you were talking about the pellets. Those are not out yet. Huben mentioned to me that they intend to release them next year...
even the gun, it's not out for the US market yet, only a few of the ppl got the gun, not sure how they got it, maybe group buy?
You have several distributors in US. Contact them. I is possible that it is not in stock at the moment...
How many .....
It’s crazy id rather you, me, or a stranger build the huben then the factory.
you are a genius!
Thanks you!🙌 Cuccesfull for you
Hi Gregor,
Today I am surprised to find three thin O-rings in the DIY silencer I made for my Huben ( version 2 ) . It must came from the rifle. I have done some dry firing with the rifle, is it possible for some of the O-rings to be blown out of the action ? if yes, where are these O-rings located ? Pls check out this picture and let me know what you think.
imghst.co/71/m1Kt~lxAsK.jpg
I have now taken the rifle apart so it is impossible for me to tell whether there are any leakage because of the lack of these O-rings. Thanks in advance.
These are probably form the shroud, in the plastic part that holds the barrel in place. to reinsert them, you will have to take the shroud off by fully removing the front clamp screw and loosen the rear two screws. When you have the shroud off, remove the muzzle cap, remove all the baffles (make sure you remember how they were assembled) and then push the plastic part out the front of the muzzle. Reinsert the o-rings in the plastic part and reassemble the gun...
Gregor Kamenšek got it ! Just Found three groves for the O-rings inside the barrel holding element at the front of the shroud. Back in business now. Many thanks !
Mr. Gregor,
I had been watching all your video on Huber K1 V2 with so much excitement. After 3 months of watching (not everyday) I finally decided to please my order which you know it takes me almost 4 months of waiting and finally is here. Can’t wait for testing on the field..
My first question, how many shots can you get out of 1 filled of 300 bar pressure? Thank you.
PS. Can I have your email address.
Hi. Shot count depends on the power you will use. No doubt that the best results will arrive by using slugs of about 35 grain shooting them at about 980 fps. With this setting, you will get at least 25 regulated shots (from 300 down to 170 bars) if you set you gun correctly.
Send me a private massage and I will send you my email or just write your email and I will contact you.
Gregor Kamenšek thank you so much for your reply.
Gregor Kamenšek my email komunika01@me.com
You may have these!
K1 or cricket mk2
This is the most common question I get (Huben vs. another conventional repeater with pellet pusher). I have answered it several times, and you can look up the answers but it comes down to if semi auto is important to you, if power is important to you and what projectiles (pellets or slugs) you want to shoot...
@@gregorkamensek3923 hi Gregor
It was more of a tongue in cheek question as they are both excellent guns.
I'm having a smooth barrel made for the cricket to allow the use of slugs.
I'll let you know how I get on.
EXELENTE!!!!!
Việt nam 👌👍👍
Phu Anh đang nuốt nước miếng nè
Guns nice,I want buy
Hi Gregor. My friend just bought Huben V2 and after shooting over 100 times a failure has occured. The gun dumps the air in first or second shot. Power wheel in many positons and doesnt work as it should -energy is set to 105J of and the power wheel changes the energy just by 5 Jules. Regulator pressure was set between 170-180 bar. Help me please.:) heres link to my pal malfunctioning Huben. ua-cam.com/video/_z2Or6wJ-5k/v-deo.html
Greetings from Poland.
Hi. Don't worry, this is perfectly normal. Actually that is exactly what I explained in my videos (I believe in video 2 for accuracy). The power wheel has 2 or 3 turns at the end where it has no effect is designed that way. All you need to do is turn the power down. Do it like this: have the power wheel fully opened and then start to turn it down. When you start to feel more resistance, then the power wheel is actually engaging the power setting. Keep on turning it down and pay attention at the gauge. Keep on turning it down until the velocity drops for about 5-10 m/s (in your case to about 295 m/s). That will eliminate your problem. You will also get much better efficiency... If you would like to have higher velocity, then just simply increase the pressure, but it makes no sense to go over 190 bars.
All you need to do is record a video // Micrometer or vernier caliper measuring BBB 0
I'd like a drawing
Hi
Thanks for videos
Very helpful in maintaining huben
I have issue with huben k1 version 2
When taken shots it gives excessive air out of barrel
Can you suggest where is issue
Do you have any whatsap or contact number to talk pls
Hi. I assume you have too low pressure set on the regulator and too high setting on power wheel for the slugs you are using... you can give me your email...
@@gregorkamensek3923 thanks for reply , my email id w_a_m60@yahoo.com currently 170 bar reg presure and approx 30 clicks of power setting , some times it works fine some time its gives axcessive air , i have checked lil bit high clicks and lower , observed inconsistency , i mean some times works fine , and suddenly acessive air shot , at the time of issue , always main presure is around 300 bar , or 280 ,
please help out boss
@@haziqwaseem1547 It depends on the pellet / slug that you use. This problem occurs is teh slug is very heavy and / or has a lot of friction. What slugs are you using ? Weight, velocity, diameter?
@@gregorkamensek3923 slugs using 35 grain 5.56 in size .2185 approx
170 bar presure and 30 clicks out of 60 clicks
Slugs are quite fit in magzin and slightly free in magazin with friction in magzin
These are made here in pk with one of vendor who got equipment for making these slugs
Pls suggest what can be issue
34 grain jsb used as well
Same issues comes with pellets too
I observed 1 thing when i dry fire 3 to 4 and then use slugs it works fine
But after a day or 2 days when i take shot direct slugs normally happens that excessive air gone n loss presure in main chamer suddenly below 170 bar
These slugs equipment he got for huben users
He selling these slugs to huben k1 users
مرحبا، يمكنني ان أصنع سلاحا اقوى منه
Hi ,i can made a air riffle stronge than that(huben k1)
In witch cantry you,you are genus
Keren snapanya bagi satu boleh
Huben k1 final price in dollar