Brand new Rear suspension install. All new parts. Volvo XC70 P3 chassis. Part 2/2
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- Опубліковано 21 жов 2023
- Assembly of rear suspension with all new parts on 2009 Volvo XC70 T6 123000km. This includes new springs, shocks, control arms, link arms, spring seats, stabilizer bushings , axle seals and trailing arm bushings. New diff oil.
Teardown in part 1 here • Rear suspension teardo...
Parts list.
Control Arm Steel - 31429120
Springs - 31300138
Spring seat upper - 30748807 lower - 30714527
Shocks - KYB 349129
Shock mount kit - 31429386
Stabilizer bushings - 30748926 Link - LEM-3543001
Axle seal - LR023440 X 2
Link Arm - right 31406749 leeft 31406748
Link Arm - 31262931 X2
Link arms Bolt X 6 999259
Control arm Bolt X 2 30622728 Nut 985870
Alignment bolt - 30741284 - washer - 30741283 - nut -987885 X2 all
Shock Bolt X4 30624207 Bolt 30624310
Axle bolt X 2 30670602
Diff plug washer - 11998
Diff oil - Amsoil SAE 75W-90
Teardown of suspension in Part 1 Video is here ua-cam.com/video/fc96-ZtIDdk/v-deo.html
Hey wanna if you have video info on an 08 v70 rack home replacement....thx u in advance
Massive job and very well done without a hoist.
Good on you for using new bolts. I cant stress how important that is, well worth the cost and effort.
Putting it all back together is much harder than pulling it apart!
I have done this job before and the variances are-
Axle torque is 35nm + 90 degree turn
Shock top bolt to mount is 25nm- Put the mount in vice and torque. DO NOT put shock body in vice as it will damage it
If you don't torque it correctly it will eventually rattle , to tight and the mount will go bad prematurely.
Do not lubricate sway bar bushings.
I use copper paste on the bolts for rust, It stops rust much better and bolts will not break as easy. No need to re torque with copper.
if you use grease and anti seize like you have I would recommend re torquing in about 6-8 weeks
Now for the front. From memory your front control arm bushings are shot. Buy Lemforder arms .
Its a painful job without a hoist , height clearance issues and if you change shocks, as you need to compress spring. I would buy the whole strut and shock package complete
Different story if you have the 4c shocks like me!
Another great video.
Thank you for replying to my previous post on part one, the moment I needed it the most is that now I'm going to learn without asking anyone for advice 👌
Watched this video a few times. Really interesting, thanks for taking the time to do it. I have a 2 wheel drive V70 but as you know all the same. Planning to do my springs with lowering kit so will see how it goes
Outstanding job. Only true Volvo enthusiasts would go that far to keep their cars riding beautifully.
I thought new rear trailing arms would be enough but 640km after I replaced the left one, I noticed another play developing in the rear axle. We really notice small arms deteriorating when the rear trailing arms are newer. That's another trip to the dealer, they're already loving me. Thank god for that cheap warranty including suspension arms! Paid itself on that car.
Fortunately the front suspension is much easier. Replacing shocks and lower control arms solve everything. Rear suspension is obviously multilink so multi-issues.
I'll soon be at 143000 km but zero rust here so parts longevity is probably greater.
Lifetime warranty as well for parts and labour here in France, as long as you're a Volvo Privilege+ member (for 5yo+ cars). Membership is free so it's a no brainer.
Warranty + warranty is the only way !
Great video. Thanks for creating!
When I replaced the springs on my 2013 XC70, I used a small scissor jack to support the trailing arm and the larger floor jack to compress the spring like you did. It still took a while to get the control arm aligned and the bolt in place.
Volvo expertise ❤❤
Treabă bună ! Totul făcut cum trebuie! Te urmăresc cu placere! Salutari și toate cele bune!
Good job!
Honnestly would have reused the aluminium control arms 31317603 instead of changing them for the stamp steel one 31429120 at 200$ a pop. I worry about lifespan of the new part and also changing the bushing on it would have saved you money 160$ per control arms. I'm sure the dealer would have been able to press them in for you at the same time as the other ones.
Otherwise great video as always!
The original Vovlo bushings are expensive plus pay for press in. That’s why I went that route. But I still have the aluminum arms at home.
100% mark for your effort !!! 🤟🤟🤟
Check the spec on the rear axle bolt. It’s a stretch bolt so it will require an angle torque after the initial torque.
Paint above the rust is a sure way to fuck it up realy fast, if you cant remove clean treat and them paint you should use some fluid like fluid film, saida that great job and efort in keeping that great car.
Nice video 👌😎
Would love a video on front strut replacement. My mounts are making noise. Thanks for your videos!
No plans yet.
Big job, nicely done. FIY it's not a good idea to lubricate rubber bushings, as you did on the sway bar. The bushing is supposed to twist as the bar moves up and down with the control arms.
Good to know. If any issues will arise its not hard to replace. Thx!
Здоровенькі були.
The underbody nuts at 5:57 are 30681674
I have those similar KYB shocks when I bought my S40 in 2017. Almost 7 years and more than 61 000 Km later, they are still firm, but one side is always weird. It is soft, but after some bounces, it becomes normal and firm. Should have consider the OE Sachs Shocks? That is what I will chose in the future for replacement on the S40. For the S80 with 4C, its a different story... I always use new bolts for suspension jobs. If they are not cut out for removing parts, the other ones has become so rusted in Québec roads!
Kayaba makes quality to last
When was the last time you did your front lower control arms? Replacing mine soon because of the steering wheel drift even though alignment is correct. Great video today!
Сразу чувствуется что русский акцент есть )))
The rear axel is track giving, that's the reason why the steering is out of alignment after revising the rear suspension.
Thx
on my car i use Kayaba or Monroe springs ballbarings shock absorbers, on some cars are OE so not realy aftermarket....ex Nissan GTR is OE Kayaba, Renault 2 so ....
Did you also notice a wobling lateral shaking of the car while driving? Mine does, and I think it's because of those arm bushings gone like yours! Moving the arm with that metal bar makes me feel that is the reason of my XC 70 shaking. Also becasue my rear shox are relatively new.
It’s not hard to check .as the suspension wears the driver gets used to the behaviour.
@@volvosweden Thank you very much for your reply!! But mine sometimes gets scary the way it shakes…. I’m going to replace the bushings anyway but having the 4C shox I’d love it’s not also them to be replaced.
Absolutly outstanding piece of work,well done.
Thanks! It was big job
Isn't the axle bolt 35Nm+additional 90 degree turn of the wrench?
Yuri, why are your thoughts on the new Volvo’s models. I am not a big fan of the turbo and supercharged 2.0L 4 cylinder engines. I don’t think they will last as long as the inline 6 cylinder ones. I also wish they still offered the 5 cylinder engine as well
Many parts are interchangable with Ford, especially FoMoCo
Hey man, really appreciate your videos. What's the durability of the AWD System on the P3/EUCD XC 70's? Especially starting at 200.000 kms. (provided it got good maintenance)
I heard it's more reliable than in the previous generation.
I see a lot of XC 70 P3s whenever I visit Sweden, even here in northern Germany they aren't uncommon. Which leads me to believe that it can't be that bad.
It’s pretty reliable and been used for Many years!
The rear ones are better if u use polyurentane. It should fix it
first off great video. just want to confirm what bolts are used for each end of the upper control arm links (right 31406749 left 31406748) and forward tow control arm link (31262931)? your description lists 6 bolts (999259), wouldn't you need 8?
My bad. It is 8
@@volvosweden no problem thanks for confirming and making a really thorough video!
Ждем рашан версию 😊
Есть тоько вышло
Hello
I have problem with my XC70 2008 D5 i have changed my winter set with the summer one. On winter set i have 235/55/17 Hankook tires but on summer one its 235/50/18 NEXEN N FERA RU1 XL 101 Y tires. Problem is that when there is less than 15 c outside my rear side of the car feels wobly on the uneaven road and kinda jumping from left to side its really weird i did not have that kind of problem on winter set. Is this problem caused by the tires or bad read shocks? I have 4C suspension. Thanks
доброго времени суток, есть ли в планах заменить торпедо с местом под установку монитора(рестайлинговая)?
You must’ve spent a small fortune this time. 😳
Definitely did
@@volvoswedenBy the way, you don’t have to drool over new models, they should be drooling instead.
The steel lower arm seems like a downgrade. Probably easier to bend and weld steel at small volume (fewer and fewer cars left that need this part) than to cast aluminum.
Maybe you could get a quote from a shop to press new bushings into the old arm and sell them 🤔
Too late. I could press new bushes into my aluminum arms and sell.
@@volvosweden yeah that's what i meant, just to not throw the aluminium ones on the landfill.
i didn't think you'd have the patience to replace them again after seeing the video 😅
how much did all these parts cost you? I am curious as to what the price difference is from doing it at Volvo, versus doing it myself. Also does Canada not have the same thing as the US? Anything we do here, turns into a lifetime warranty for parts and labor.
I did not get a quote on labour from the dealer. But I bet the price would be very high. Yes Vovlo Canada offers and matches the US in lifetime warranty. The trailing arm bushings are a pain in the ass to do and that’s why I went and paid the dealer. On the other hand if all this was done not by me there wouldn’t be a video to watch ;)
Oh no I was just wondering what those parts costs. And yeah I watch your videos for how hard a job may or may not be. Well say I’m no where as mechanically inclined like you, but can do some stuff my own. Glad to hear they do offer the same warranty there in Canada. Great video as always.
@SterlingSigurdsen did not keep track of prices. Roughly 1200$ CaD
Hi, have you ever replaced the brake booster on your P3 Volvo? I am currently doing this job but cant find a way to remove the upper 2 nuts holding the brake booster on the inside of the car.
Nevermind, just completed the job. Now time to recover my back from this nightmare job
@@LiverpoolStGerrardipd has a video on this and they said it was a real pain and that was with the engine removed……
@@pgreenx thanks! I already did the job 2 weeks ago. It was a real nightmare but I somehow managed to do it after multiple attemps and a lot of frustration and physical pain.
How many miles, what model, etc was your car? Curious why it went bad and what was the hard part of the job?
@@pgreenx S80 D5 185bhp, 2008, 280.000 km. The hardest part is to remove the 4 nuts on the inside of the car holding the brake booster. It is almost impossible to reach them. Had to be very creative and build some flexible extensions. Sorry for my english.
I have not been able to get my steering wheel 100% on centre, either.
My 1990 240 steering is nice and straight after alignment. XC70 and V50 are not. Very sad
А когда русская версия?
ua-cam.com/video/MFsngVEocX8/v-deo.htmlsi=D5E7Vj8fZLOP4l-o
Good job!
Thx so much!