I felt relieved that whatever shorted the MOSFET didn’t also take out the microcontroller. Excellent work as always. The brief glimpse of your snowy countryside felt refreshing. It’s 36°C in my locale.
Cheers Vince,👍 I need to catch up on a couple of your videos as I've not had time to watch the last couple. Hope you are doing well. I honestly don't know where you find the time mate, you must be at it 24/7!
I went down the rabbit hole trying to figure out if Milwaukee owned the Torx company (or at least the Torx screwdriver company) and discovered that the company that invented the Torx screw head, Textron, started out as a manufacturer of synthetic yarn! That led them to parachutes and eventually aviation. The screws started out on Cessnas.
Just a tip for getting to the numbers on the chips that are coated like that. I found ACETONE breaks that coating down very well, as it does my daughters nail polish!! LOL. I let it sit for a beer or two, then begin to scrape the chip with an old credit card that has been ground down to act as a scraper. That helps with not destroying the lazer etching. Then I switch to 99% ipa for a few wipes, then smear whiteout over the number, let it dry for a few seconds only, then smear my finger over it until I begin to see numbers, and if there is a number? you will see it with the correct light deflection and the microscope my friend. Hope this helps. Keep the great videos coming please.
Nice fix. I was wondering why you didn't look at the switch first, but if you've had experience with those mosfets before, that explains it. Thanks for sharing.
I tune in for the GR8T 🔉accent' but stay for the iNtErEsTiNg tear down and troubleshooting. I miss doing this myself so "watching it" is the next best thing Not to mention you do a better job! Thank you for the infotainment video. Cheers from Long Beach, CA. USA 3rd House On the Right.. p.s. It's nice to see you removing the screws manually instead of always zinging them out with a electric miracle driver. Builds dexterity and coordination IMHO (use it or lose it). Electric is nice sometimes
Excellent work... 👏👏👏 17:08 to 17:35, ah, yes, the slow realisation of "BUGGER!!!" I assume the jump cut was "lost footage" where you spewed expletives at it, making references to it's mother's chosen profession...🤣🤣🤣 It's why I always have a sharpie and/or a paint pen at hand, mark the ever-loving-shite out of it, then there's no doubt how it goes together
Some sure remember Repairs like this .. all looks fine till the End when you realise .. Damn ! These Days when you think it would have been better if I had just stayed in Bed 🤐😉
I'm an electrical technician in a hospital and have a keen interest in repairing electrical and electronic gadgets too and love your channel. I'm watching from the east coast of the second island to the west of you, so not too far away.
well the old AC version of the hole Hawg was more than capable of ripping the drill out of your hands especially using 2' hole saws, nice fix, I am sure you made your buddies day.
Yes they have current sensing resistors on the back of the motor board, although I have had it where 4 mosfets were shorted on saw and it had sent 18v down the ribbon cable and fried the motor controller chip.
Another resurrection, well done. A suggestion (no hint of egg-sucking tutelage) is to use small silicone trivets (intended for kitchen use) when unsoldering big stuff from thick stuff. They don't suck heat and are not too costly to replace if they burn.
Tip - when you're pulling those boards off the motor just mark one of the sides of the board and motor housing with a chinagraph or a permanent marker or even electrical tape so you get the orientation right.
I noticed one thing while you were checking the FETs: You only checked G-S and G-D. In my experience you also need to check D-S because I have seen enough broken Mosfets where D-S was shorted and the gate was still high impedance. I typically only check G-S and D-S by the way, I can't recall ever seing any FETs where G-D was shorted without all three terminals just being compeltely shorted together.
I didn't have the Datasheet at hand, so couldn't remember which pin was which at the time, apart from the gate pin. Normally I'd check the S-D pins too but most of the failures I've seen on these is either the mosfet is competely shorted or exploded.
Just a thought that any ball bearing in that sort of environment would be greased not oiled, and putting three in one on it would just dilute the grease making the bearing looser and more noisy ending in failure. And there's no magic in BLDC control chips, and the Hall effects inputs are probably pretty standard. Just have to work out if the speed control is analogue or PWM and get one of the thousands of controllers available. Of course you have to also get a programming board (AUD$30-40) and a bit of free software to match input from switch with speed of mosfet firing. Still be cheaper, and more fun, than just shelling out the AUD$500 plus for a new skin. Keep up the good work. Love the concision and lack of intrusive music.
..however, if the bearing was already failing, there's little point in being finicky with it as it has no bearing (hah!) on the immediate fix. If this was a full refurb job then fine, but for this just to get the m/c working again for a bit, no, IMO
First of all thanks for the support. The BLDC controller in these tools does more than just control the motor. It also monitors the battery, as there is no over discharge protection in the Milwaukee batteries, it is all done in the tool. So the microcontroller won't allow the motor to try and run if the battery is too low. It also controls things such as the front LED when the trigger is pressed, and monitors the battery temperature. This is why it's a microcontroller containing firmware with a BLDC pre-driver. It takes the inputs from the hall effect transistors which are pretty standard as you say. I had thought about creating a replacement open source board, as the circular saws are very prone to failure.
21:05 good job kiddoe!! interesting i see the thing taken a part i see the thing put together it is as if it is alive again some things my word can not express
Nice fix Mick, you never fail to astound me, looks like a nice bit of kit that I am a poor and only use Makita lol, I have been using Makita for over 30 years when I used to do car alarm / Audio and electric window installations
Buy a genuine engineer solder sucker, they are so much better than the generic ones... Great fix as always! We all get distracted from repairs at times - going to get the sheep safe from the snow must count as the best excuse I ever heard!!
Right from start, What's a "Click", besides sound? 0:30 I must say, You're Really good at removing screws. haha A few minutes later after use, Heat [Strip] Gun Failed to turn back on. Neighbor, (good at many things) couldn't find reason. Years Later, watching videos, i thought perhaps Fuse or 'Thermistor'; More years later, Mosfet is new word. LOL Still have it, tho Not yet checked, but what do i know? more today than yesterday, or last year; Next Life ought to be Huge! 14:36 Saw you relook when first removing board, 12:50 so i reviewed. Cable goes just to Right of section with 2 screws. You placed Cable to Right, but moved 'one hole over'. re: the power of Replay. 8|} one of many ways to learn. *Thanks!* 8:50 I'm totally with Louis Rossmann on issue[s], *Where* do companies *get belief* they're *Still allowed to act* as if they Own parts? [when One's labor affords ability to purchase product, Purchased, Own in Whole; as Total.] 9:07 "CAN^ Not share"; "NOT approved" fyi *Word choice:* --> ^"CAN" = Lacking ability, knowledge; 'MAY' = permission. "NOT" [allowed] should Never be used when it comes to the people's Personal or Private property. *Do No harm.* The people *'instituted Governments to Secure their Rights,* among them, Life, Liberty, Property, and pursuit of Happiness'. The fact Legislature has passed authority to Executive Branch, giving department administrations' ability to create their own Regulations, affects the way Companies Policies are written, thus *lack Constitutional values,* where Oversight is a far reach, *defying the purpose of Checks & Balances.*
Yes, I watch Louis too. I don't like the way companies try and treat customers. I've had a couple of issues one was with FLIR and the thermal camera I needed a part for (video is on here with the emails I sent / received) and also I had similar with a solar inverter I repaired but needed a service password. I did a video on that too (no password, no problem) that one turned out to be quite funny after I emailed them back 😂😂😂
Nice work. It definitely needs a bearing, though. The growling one is not long for the world. The worst thing it could do is heat up and melt the housing.
That was some quick diagnosis, great job👍👍 Benefits of working on Milwaukee stuff before didn't hurt either. Question: are those original Fluke test leads? They seem to have sharper tips than normal. Thanks for another satisfying victory and video, well done sir. See ya soon.
Sometimes it takes you longer to take to bits than fix, or so it seems. When you were taking the circuit board off I thought you had clocked that it might be able to put it back wrong as you seemed to be looking at it. However 🙂 Yet another great fix though.
Yes, I did pause and was looking for my Sharpie to mark it. I couldn't find it to hand and just got on with it 😂😂😂 At least I learned something so hopefully I'll not make the same mistake again 👍
I have a sawzall that seems to be the same board and the resistor at C32 burnt up! Just wondering where I can find the spec for these and where to buy them if you could help? Love your videos keep them going
I did look at one of those a while back. If it's the same model as you might be able to see what part it is. C denotes capacitor not resistor, so it sounds like a capacitor has failed. Usually it's not a huge issue unless it has shorted in which case remove it and see what happens.
Hello, I would like to ask for an advice, I have an M18 Fuel Brad Nailer where it doesnt turn on, no lights even with working battery, do you know where I could start?. Enjoy watching your videos! More power to you!
Sounds like a problem on the control board. There is a processor on there that should have 3.3V when power is connected. I did do a video on a nail gun but it was a different issue to the one that you have.
Nice video as always.. I wonder if that thing would still work if you only cut off the legs of the broken MOSFET. Sure only 5/6 phases would work but the thing would still be usable? No?
Thanks 👍No it wouldn't work as there are 3 coils, so you would be missing a 3rd of the rotation. If you span it by hand fast enough they do run, but as soon as you put any load on it, it would just stop. I had an SDS drill like that which kind of worked but not properly, until I fixed it 🙂
It could have possibly been the switch, but because the LED was lighting and I was getting a "click" from the motor it seemed unlikely. I've had quite a few tools like this, drills, saws etc and 95% of the time it is blown MOSFETS.
Hi. Love this channel. I have a question. I have an M18 Fuel 3/4 drive impact gun. It suddenly stopped working. The led comes on, and the motor starts for maybe half a revolution and stops. I have it apart. I'd say the motor board is identical to the one here. So, none of the mosfets show a short, neither do the caps. The resistors seem ok as well. Do you think it might be the hall effect sensors? And do you have a vid where you have done those? Fingers crossed it's not the main board, as it's an expensive tool. I'm just a little out of my comfort zone with the hall effect stuff. Thanks, whether you answer or not.
Thanks 👍I do try and respond to everyone. Usually the problem is Mosfets. I don't think I've had a hall effect failure apart from 1 grinder which someone sent me which the centre rotor of the motor had been bent at the rear from debris and had caused it to wear away.
@@BuyitFixit Yes, I know you do, and I'm sure we all appreciate it. I know I do and selfishly don't want your channel to get too big...🙂 Mine has no physical issues, everything seems fine. It just stopped. Mosfets don't show shorts, but I suppose they can fail in other ways. I'll try changing them and see. I can still get an entire electronics package for it, from main board at the batt, through the switch and up to the stator, but I'd prefer not to if it's just a simple component failure. Thank you very much for taking the time.
@@BuyitFixit Thought this might interest you. Guy isn't as good as you, but he does get into the main board at the battery connector. Going to try this on mine, ua-cam.com/video/26_Fy6O2unk/v-deo.htmlsi=Cz8dWeuRt0rzt3K7
The right to repair in the US seems to have caused the manufacturers to supply many parts as major subassemblies. In many cases Milwalkee (for example) will not supply a simple battery connector - you have to buy it with the switch, stator and motor controller as an assembly which makes an out of warranty repair uneconomic ... technically fixable just uneconomic to do so.
Yes I discovered that too when trying to repair the circular saw and the sander I looked at. The saw I managed to repair by someone sending me a donor part and the sander I found an alternative motor on Aliexpress.
13:10 i believe you know what you're doing from an out sider perspective kinda funny and ironic to remove it from a large aluminum heat sinc to put it on.. a large aluminum heat sinc ahaha kick ass thanks for the vid
Doubt it, it was just slightly noisy. I've had quite a few drills saws etc with the same issue. I think it's when they get jammed it puts a lot of strain on those mosfets.
I'm curious, why didn't you use low melt solder to remove MOSFET. Also, I noticed you did not apply flux prior to hot air removal of damaged MOSFET. In other vids, you are generous with flux prior to removing damaged components and after IPA clean up, flux again for fresh solder and New component
I was wondering if you should have marked the orientation of that board.... Easy to say watching on my screen. I would probably made the same assumption you did.....
14:50 i've not been through the end of the video yet, so just wondering if the mossfet blew, would this not only fix the blown mossfet, not fix the cause of the blown mossfet? is this just a general engineered design fault? no way to figure it out and fix? from ignorance with appreciation
I've had this problem on a number of tools. I think if the tool jams or if it's had too much pressure on it, they can blow. Sometimes it takes the control chip out too if it goes short and sends 18v down the gate line into the IC.
They just sometimes fail. Perhaps they are being pushed too hard. There could be a lot of torque (pressure and they pull a lot of current) or if the drill jams, although they do have a current sense resistor so it should stop if that's the case.
@@BuyitFixit Check his blog and latest video. Lymphoma - undergoing chemo, but soldiering on with creating content. He may not be able to do so with regularity and he says his wife may step in. I thought it would be great if the fixit community lent him a helping hand and some support.
@@BuyitFixit Reach out to your peers here and see if you can get together and do it in a coordinated way. I've put comments on StezStixFix, My Mate Vince and several others to get their attention. Hopefully you can all pull something off together (assuming TronixFix is open to the idea).
Well I must say you are a puzzling person. You work your ass off to drill around corners.🤔 And you take the PCB from the aluminum motor plate to put it on aluminum for soldering. 🤣🤣 Great fix anyway, I must say. 😁
Could be. I've not really seen a lot of those type but I've seen quite a few of the SDS drills and the circular saws which use pretty much the same internals.
what? a milwaukee fuel you can "easily" replace a mosfet? next version will be potted as allways. from experience fixing a die grinder and uggadugga that both needed depotting..
It would be interesting to see you get a load of electronically dead tools from dean, www.youtube.com/@deandohertygreaser and see if you can revive them.
Yes I had that on a Milwaukee circular saw which I couldn't repair (after changing the mosfets), although a viewer did sent me a replacement microcontroller from another broken saw, so I did manage to fix it in a follow up video.
🙂👍Yes, I had it where the power was fed back on a couple of similar products one was the Milwaukee circular saw I looked at, luckily someone kindly donated a spare microcontroller board so I was able to repair it.
I felt relieved that whatever shorted the MOSFET didn’t also take out the microcontroller. Excellent work as always.
The brief glimpse of your snowy countryside felt refreshing. It’s 36°C in my locale.
Thanks, yes all the snow has gone now, although it is still pretty cold here. 1.5C outside currently.
Brilliant as always Mick! I was thinking switch, but you knew different, hence why you are 'The Milwaukee Fixer'. Great job mate.
Cheers Vince,👍 I need to catch up on a couple of your videos as I've not had time to watch the last couple. Hope you are doing well. I honestly don't know where you find the time mate, you must be at it 24/7!
Lesson learned. Always put orientation marks on parts before disassembly, saves a ton of aggravation!
Yes, we all learn from our mistakes 😊👍
Good job and glad it was only the MOSFET that needed replacing. See ya next time
Thanks 🙂👍
I went down the rabbit hole trying to figure out if Milwaukee owned the Torx company (or at least the Torx screwdriver company) and discovered that the company that invented the Torx screw head, Textron, started out as a manufacturer of synthetic yarn! That led them to parachutes and eventually aviation. The screws started out on Cessnas.
Interesting, thanks for sharing 🙂👍
@@BuyitFixitGreat fix, by the way. I see you have our lovely Manitoba spring weather!
Just a tip for getting to the numbers on the chips that are coated like that. I found ACETONE breaks that coating down very well, as it does my daughters nail polish!! LOL.
I let it sit for a beer or two, then begin to scrape the chip with an old credit card that has been ground down to act as a scraper. That helps with not destroying the lazer etching.
Then I switch to 99% ipa for a few wipes, then smear whiteout over the number, let it dry for a few seconds only, then smear my finger over it until I begin to see numbers, and if there is
a number? you will see it with the correct light deflection and the microscope my friend. Hope this helps. Keep the great videos coming please.
Thank you 👍and thanks for the tips 🙂
The enjoyment watching you work is fantastic
Thank you! Cheers👍
Nice fix. I was wondering why you didn't look at the switch first, but if you've had experience with those mosfets before, that explains it. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks 👍Yes, I've looked at a couple of SDS drills, Saws, and a few other tools. Blown MOSFETS are usually the cause of them not working.
I tune in for the GR8T 🔉accent' but stay for the iNtErEsTiNg tear down and troubleshooting. I miss doing this myself so "watching it" is the next best thing Not to mention you do a better job! Thank you for the infotainment video. Cheers from Long Beach, CA. USA 3rd House On the Right.. p.s. It's nice to see you removing the screws manually instead of always zinging them out with a electric miracle driver. Builds dexterity and coordination IMHO (use it or lose it). Electric is nice sometimes
Thanks 🙂👍
Excellent work... 👏👏👏
17:08 to 17:35, ah, yes, the slow realisation of "BUGGER!!!" I assume the jump cut was "lost footage" where you spewed expletives at it, making references to it's mother's chosen profession...🤣🤣🤣
It's why I always have a sharpie and/or a paint pen at hand, mark the ever-loving-shite out of it, then there's no doubt how it goes together
Thanks 👍I was actually going to mark it just in case but I couldn't find my sharpie at the time so thought it would be fine.. guess I was wrong 😂😂
Some sure remember Repairs like this .. all looks fine till the End when you realise .. Damn ! These Days when you think it would have been better if I had just stayed in Bed 🤐😉
".......... its mother's chosen profession"
Superb.
@@A6D6E6 this guy gets it...👍👍👍
'THE MAN' wins yet again. Many thanks from Nr Chester.
😂😂😂Thanks 👍
Same issue with mine after long storage, thanks for posting maybe will help
I'd perhaps check the switch too, sometimes the contacts can get dirty inside. I had that recently on a Milwaukee circular saw which I looked at.
Absolutely bloody excellent repair. And, as usual, I am left very envious of your skill. Best electrical repair channel in my book.
Wow, thanks👍
The Fixer of Everything!
😂😂😂Indeed 👍
Good job--keeping electronics out of the landfill, one drill at a time!
Yes indeed 👍😂😂😂
I'm an electrical technician in a hospital and have a keen interest in repairing electrical and electronic gadgets too and love your channel.
I'm watching from the east coast of the second island to the west of you, so not too far away.
Nice 👍🙂
I like the way you kept moving forward even though there was a good chance the controller was fried; nice!
Thanks 👍
well the old AC version of the hole Hawg was more than capable of ripping the drill out of your hands especially using 2' hole saws, nice fix, I am sure you made your buddies day.
Thanks 👍
I didn't even know they made holesaws that big!
@@oliverer3 The biggest I've seen is 11" but in roughing in plumbing they use up to 6' hole saws for pipe.
Awesome..love watching..learn alot...thanks.. keep doing it...
Thank you 👍
Its nice that the controller knows a mosfet is shorted and won't destroy the rest of the fets when someone attempts to use it again.
Yes they have current sensing resistors on the back of the motor board, although I have had it where 4 mosfets were shorted on saw and it had sent 18v down the ribbon cable and fried the motor controller chip.
Heya, nice repair good the main ic isn't blown
Very nice fault finding and repair, handy looking drill.
Thanks Mr JSV 👍
Great saving this tool. I'm very impressed!
Thank you 👍
Another excellent repair. Your mate will be delighted. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks 👍
Another resurrection, well done. A suggestion (no hint of egg-sucking tutelage) is to use small silicone trivets (intended for kitchen use) when unsoldering big stuff from thick stuff. They don't suck heat and are not too costly to replace if they burn.
Thanks Ralph, and thank you for the suggestion 👍
Tip - when you're pulling those boards off the motor just mark one of the sides of the board and motor housing with a chinagraph or a permanent marker or even electrical tape so you get the orientation right.
Yes, lesson learned from this one. I did exactly that in a more recent video on the Kenwood mixer I looked at 👍
Great job.
Thanks!
There was never any doubt 😂👍 great fix
Thanks 👍
Great fix , it looks like that area gets a lot of dust on it ......
Thanks Cajun 👍
I noticed one thing while you were checking the FETs: You only checked G-S and G-D. In my experience you also need to check D-S because I have seen enough broken Mosfets where D-S was shorted and the gate was still high impedance. I typically only check G-S and D-S by the way, I can't recall ever seing any FETs where G-D was shorted without all three terminals just being compeltely shorted together.
I didn't have the Datasheet at hand, so couldn't remember which pin was which at the time, apart from the gate pin. Normally I'd check the S-D pins too but most of the failures I've seen on these is either the mosfet is competely shorted or exploded.
Just a thought that any ball bearing in that sort of environment would be greased not oiled, and putting three in one on it would just dilute the grease making the bearing looser and more noisy ending in failure. And there's no magic in BLDC control chips, and the Hall effects inputs are probably pretty standard. Just have to work out if the speed control is analogue or PWM and get one of the thousands of controllers available. Of course you have to also get a programming board (AUD$30-40) and a bit of free software to match input from switch with speed of mosfet firing. Still be cheaper, and more fun, than just shelling out the AUD$500 plus for a new skin. Keep up the good work. Love the concision and lack of intrusive music.
..however, if the bearing was already failing, there's little point in being finicky with it as it has no bearing (hah!) on the immediate fix. If this was a full refurb job then fine, but for this just to get the m/c working again for a bit, no, IMO
First of all thanks for the support. The BLDC controller in these tools does more than just control the motor. It also monitors the battery, as there is no over discharge protection in the Milwaukee batteries, it is all done in the tool. So the microcontroller won't allow the motor to try and run if the battery is too low. It also controls things such as the front LED when the trigger is pressed, and monitors the battery temperature. This is why it's a microcontroller containing firmware with a BLDC pre-driver. It takes the inputs from the hall effect transistors which are pretty standard as you say. I had thought about creating a replacement open source board, as the circular saws are very prone to failure.
"No bearing on it" 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂👍
So easy when you know how👍👍 another top job
Thanks Darren 👍
21:05 good job kiddoe!!
interesting
i see the thing taken a part
i see the thing put together
it is as if it is alive again
some things my word can not express
Thanks 👍🙂
Nice fix Mick, you never fail to astound me, looks like a nice bit of kit that I am a poor and only use Makita lol, I have been using Makita for over 30 years when I used to do car alarm / Audio and electric window installations
Cheers Gary 👍
@@BuyitFixit no worries mate
Awesome 😎😎😎✌🏻✌🏻✌🏻
I appreciate your patience while problem solving and I am learning a lot from you
Specially patience 😇😇😇😇
Keep it up 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
Thanks 👍
Nice fix. Replacing the blown mosfet was probably cheaper than replacing the whole tool.
Thanks 👍A new tool is around £250-£350 the mosfet was around £3
Well done
Thanks 👍
nice job i was surprised one mosfet and no movment at all. must have short circit protection.
Yes, I think it measures the current by the two resistors near the ribbon cable on the back of the motor PCB.
Yet another great repair!
Thanks 🙂👍
Excellent repair!
Thanks 👍🙂
You've made it hole again :)
😂😂😂👍
Nice repair, but it still astounds me that you sometimes put things fully back together without testing the basics beforehand. 🙂
I was pretty confident that it would work. I've fixed other similar tools 🙂
TBH it doesn't matter, if it doesn't work after reassembly, it'd mean the control board is gone, which can not be fixed.
I us to use that tip for screws back into plastic. 👍
Yes I saw it on another video years back, it's a good little tip 👍
Nice job
Thanks 👍
If you put a small piece of a silicone tube at the tip of the solder suction tool, it will work wonders.
I also heard that the rubber on the crt flyback do the same thing
Thanks for the suggestion 👍
Buy a genuine engineer solder sucker, they are so much better than the generic ones... Great fix as always! We all get distracted from repairs at times - going to get the sheep safe from the snow must count as the best excuse I ever heard!!
😂😂😂Thanks 👍
Right from start, What's a "Click", besides sound? 0:30 I must say, You're Really good at removing screws. haha
A few minutes later after use, Heat [Strip] Gun Failed to turn back on. Neighbor, (good at many things) couldn't find reason. Years Later, watching videos, i thought perhaps Fuse or 'Thermistor'; More years later, Mosfet is new word. LOL Still have it, tho Not yet checked, but what do i know? more today than yesterday, or last year; Next Life ought to be Huge!
14:36 Saw you relook when first removing board, 12:50 so i reviewed. Cable goes just to Right of section with 2 screws. You placed Cable to Right, but moved 'one hole over'. re: the power of Replay. 8|} one of many ways to learn. *Thanks!*
8:50 I'm totally with Louis Rossmann on issue[s], *Where* do companies *get belief* they're *Still allowed to act* as if they Own parts? [when One's labor affords ability to purchase product, Purchased, Own in Whole; as Total.]
9:07 "CAN^ Not share"; "NOT approved" fyi *Word choice:* --> ^"CAN" = Lacking ability, knowledge; 'MAY' = permission.
"NOT" [allowed] should Never be used when it comes to the people's Personal or Private property. *Do No harm.*
The people *'instituted Governments to Secure their Rights,* among them, Life, Liberty, Property, and pursuit of Happiness'. The fact Legislature has passed authority to Executive Branch, giving department administrations' ability to create their own Regulations, affects the way Companies Policies are written, thus *lack Constitutional values,* where Oversight is a far reach, *defying the purpose of Checks & Balances.*
Yes, I watch Louis too. I don't like the way companies try and treat customers. I've had a couple of issues one was with FLIR and the thermal camera I needed a part for (video is on here with the emails I sent / received) and also I had similar with a solar inverter I repaired but needed a service password. I did a video on that too (no password, no problem) that one turned out to be quite funny after I emailed them back 😂😂😂
Result, nice job 👍
Thanks 👍
Nice work. It definitely needs a bearing, though. The growling one is not long for the world. The worst thing it could do is heat up and melt the housing.
Thanks 👍Yes agree it could do with a new one.
That was some quick diagnosis, great job👍👍 Benefits of working on Milwaukee stuff before didn't hurt either. Question: are those original Fluke test leads? They seem to have sharper tips than normal. Thanks for another satisfying victory and video, well done sir. See ya soon.
Thanks 👍no the test leads are just a generic cheap set from Ebay / Amazon and retail for around £5.
17:25 ahahah! oh the woes!! *did i put this on the right way??* ahaha
😂😂😂😂👍
You certainly are the King of Diagnosis. another job well done. Have you been able to look at the intercom yet ?
Thanks Fred, not yet but I'll try to get to it this week 👍
Sometimes it takes you longer to take to bits than fix, or so it seems. When you were taking the circuit board off I thought you had clocked that it might be able to put it back wrong as you seemed to be looking at it. However 🙂 Yet another great fix though.
Yes, I did pause and was looking for my Sharpie to mark it. I couldn't find it to hand and just got on with it 😂😂😂 At least I learned something so hopefully I'll not make the same mistake again 👍
More screws as my car has 🤣🤣🤣
Very good repair 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks mate 👍
I have a sawzall that seems to be the same board and the resistor at C32 burnt up!
Just wondering where I can find the spec for these and where to buy them if you could help?
Love your videos keep them going
I did look at one of those a while back. If it's the same model as you might be able to see what part it is. C denotes capacitor not resistor, so it sounds like a capacitor has failed. Usually it's not a huge issue unless it has shorted in which case remove it and see what happens.
You never fail to impress 👍
Thank you 👍
Mick, those torx drivers are hilariously long mate, when you went for long reach drivers you weren't messing about were you 🙂
Yes, I bought them as I when I was fixing a Milwaukee DAB radio, you actually need long torx like these to be able to repair it 🙂👍
Hello, I would like to ask for an advice, I have an M18 Fuel Brad Nailer where it doesnt turn on, no lights even with working battery, do you know where I could start?. Enjoy watching your videos! More power to you!
Sounds like a problem on the control board. There is a processor on there that should have 3.3V when power is connected. I did do a video on a nail gun but it was a different issue to the one that you have.
You are good, really good, mate.
Thank you Jacques 👍
Nice video as always.. I wonder if that thing would still work if you only cut off the legs of the broken MOSFET. Sure only 5/6 phases would work but the thing would still be usable? No?
Thanks 👍No it wouldn't work as there are 3 coils, so you would be missing a 3rd of the rotation. If you span it by hand fast enough they do run, but as soon as you put any load on it, it would just stop. I had an SDS drill like that which kind of worked but not properly, until I fixed it 🙂
15:20 just having a little innocent fun, eh? :] 15:20 ah oh may be but nope you were testing aha cool cool
Fidget spinner 😂😂👍
always check the trigger switch first
It could have possibly been the switch, but because the LED was lighting and I was getting a "click" from the motor it seemed unlikely. I've had quite a few tools like this, drills, saws etc and 95% of the time it is blown MOSFETS.
I wish I was as 1/2 as good as you are to find and repair this tools I have boxes full of tools apart that can't find the problem 😅
Thank you Jose 👍 If you get stuck with something you can always drop me an email with pictures of the board or something.
@@BuyitFixit thanks I will, I have piles of broken tools, even lawnmowers, drills, nailers, blowers, sanders and more 🤔😂
Hi. Love this channel. I have a question. I have an M18 Fuel 3/4 drive impact gun. It suddenly stopped working. The led comes on, and the motor starts for maybe half a revolution and stops. I have it apart. I'd say the motor board is identical to the one here. So, none of the mosfets show a short, neither do the caps. The resistors seem ok as well. Do you think it might be the hall effect sensors? And do you have a vid where you have done those? Fingers crossed it's not the main board, as it's an expensive tool. I'm just a little out of my comfort zone with the hall effect stuff.
Thanks, whether you answer or not.
Thanks 👍I do try and respond to everyone. Usually the problem is Mosfets. I don't think I've had a hall effect failure apart from 1 grinder which someone sent me which the centre rotor of the motor had been bent at the rear from debris and had caused it to wear away.
@@BuyitFixit Yes, I know you do, and I'm sure we all appreciate it. I know I do and selfishly don't want your channel to get too big...🙂
Mine has no physical issues, everything seems fine. It just stopped. Mosfets don't show shorts, but I suppose they can fail in other ways. I'll try changing them and see. I can still get an entire electronics package for it, from main board at the batt, through the switch and up to the stator, but I'd prefer not to if it's just a simple component failure.
Thank you very much for taking the time.
No problem, glad to help👍
@@BuyitFixit Thought this might interest you. Guy isn't as good as you, but he does get into the main board at the battery connector. Going to try this on mine, ua-cam.com/video/26_Fy6O2unk/v-deo.htmlsi=Cz8dWeuRt0rzt3K7
Did you reapply the conformal coating?
No, it was only in a small area and I didn't have any.
Those torx screwdrivers have to be the biggest ones i have ever seen haha.
😂😂😂👍
I really hope that the EU makes mandatory to publish all the technical details of products so we can fix them.
Yes, that would be great, although I wouldn't hold my breath...
The right to repair in the US seems to have caused the manufacturers to supply many parts as major subassemblies. In many cases Milwalkee (for example) will not supply a simple battery connector - you have to buy it with the switch, stator and motor controller as an assembly which makes an out of warranty repair uneconomic ... technically fixable just uneconomic to do so.
Yes I discovered that too when trying to repair the circular saw and the sander I looked at. The saw I managed to repair by someone sending me a donor part and the sander I found an alternative motor on Aliexpress.
I guess you say it like 'Boss Hawg' 😊
😂😂😂😂👍
You can use heat to let grease flow into a bearing, not a brilliant fix but can get you by in a pinch if you have to wait for parts etc
Good idea! I didn't think of that at the time. Thanks for sharing 👍
When you say one moment please do you have to pay big clive a royalty fee 🤔
😂😂😂😂👍
18:35 i don't put a screw in without this trick in much of any thing!
Yes it's a good tip!
Basically a grinder wit a chuck on it
😂😂😂👍
13:10 i believe you know what you're doing
from an out sider perspective
kinda funny and ironic to remove it from a large aluminum heat sinc to put it on.. a large aluminum heat sinc ahaha
kick ass thanks for the vid
The difference is, it's bolted to the one on the drill, it's just resting on the one on my mat 🙂 I didn't want a big brown burn mark 😂😂😂👍
😂😂👍
Think that dry bearing was a source of the failure?
Doubt it, it was just slightly noisy. I've had quite a few drills saws etc with the same issue. I think it's when they get jammed it puts a lot of strain on those mosfets.
Dean Doherty fixes power tools professionally but not at the component level like this - more mechanically.
Nice 👍
@@BuyitFixit his channel is awesome.
What might have caused the MOSFET to short out?
Tool could have jammed and put too much load on it, but components do just fail...
I'm curious, why didn't you use low melt solder to remove MOSFET. Also, I noticed you did not apply flux prior to hot air removal of damaged MOSFET. In other vids, you are generous with flux prior to removing damaged components and after IPA clean up, flux again for fresh solder and New component
Sometimes I forget 😂😂👍
I was wondering if you should have marked the orientation of that board.... Easy to say watching on my screen. I would probably made the same assumption you did.....
I was actually going to, but I couldn't find my marker pen and thought it would be fine, at least I know for next time 😂😂😂
I need your turbo screw driver 😂
Yes it's the deluxe 8X model 😂😂😂😂👍
14:50 i've not been through the end of the video yet, so just wondering
if the mossfet blew, would this not only fix the blown mossfet, not fix the cause of the blown mossfet?
is this just a general engineered design fault?
no way to figure it out and fix?
from ignorance with appreciation
I've had this problem on a number of tools. I think if the tool jams or if it's had too much pressure on it, they can blow. Sometimes it takes the control chip out too if it goes short and sends 18v down the gate line into the IC.
@@BuyitFixit there must be some available protection technology for this? i mean a diode even? can't be too expensive??
@@BuyitFixita fuse may be expensive for mfg costs though
what has cuesd the short ?
They just sometimes fail. Perhaps they are being pushed too hard. There could be a lot of torque (pressure and they pull a lot of current) or if the drill jams, although they do have a current sense resistor so it should stop if that's the case.
I'm deeding you the name "Mr. Milwaukee".
😂😂😂😂👍
Ribbon cable in a drill 😮 doesn't seem good. Those things are delicate
They're in quite a few of the tools, saws etc.
That at the bottom is a chock key holder
Ah I was wondering, Thanks for that 👍
Hate those BLDC motors… if the controller fails, next to impossible to get hold of the controller chips, esp. if the motor is 10 years or older….🤬🤬🤬
Yeah, they are a lot more common now as they provide more torque and more energy efficiency in a smaller motor than a standard brushed motor.
Suggestion: you and other electronics fixers on YT do collab with TronixFix (and maybe his wife) owing to his current health situation.
Oh I wasn't aware he had a health problem.
@@BuyitFixit Check his blog and latest video. Lymphoma - undergoing chemo, but soldiering on with creating content. He may not be able to do so with regularity and he says his wife may step in. I thought it would be great if the fixit community lent him a helping hand and some support.
Damn 🙁 I would be happy to help
@@BuyitFixit Reach out to your peers here and see if you can get together and do it in a coordinated way. I've put comments on StezStixFix, My Mate Vince and several others to get their attention. Hopefully you can all pull something off together (assuming TronixFix is open to the idea).
What about that LED? I doubt it is supposed to be lit whole time and drain battery like that.
It's controlled by the microcontroller it fades out after a period of not being used🙂
You promised to look at my signal gen PSU, are you still up for it? I will pay shipping both ways and parts.
Did you drop me an email?
you sound like Shuttleworth
😂😂😂
Well I must say you are a puzzling person.
You work your ass off to drill around corners.🤔
And you take the PCB from the aluminum motor plate to put it on aluminum for soldering. 🤣🤣
Great fix anyway, I must say. 😁
😂😂😂😂😂Thanks 👍
I think that you need longer screwdrivers so you can work remotely.
😂😂😂😂Or from the next room 🙂👍
They don`t want you to fix it. They want you to throw it away and buy a new one.
Yes exactly 👍
What was the broken reason ?
Shorted MOSFET.
This must be a common issue with these drills because there is an awful lot of them on EBay for parts...
Could be. I've not really seen a lot of those type but I've seen quite a few of the SDS drills and the circular saws which use pretty much the same internals.
what? a milwaukee fuel you can "easily" replace a mosfet? next version will be potted as allways. from experience fixing a die grinder and uggadugga that both needed depotting..
Yes, the angle grinders and I think it was the drills are all potted which makes them not easily repairable 😢
You have had your issues with those mosfets on Milwaukee tools in the past. Seems to be a weak point in those tools
Yes agree. It's what takes the brunt of the power though and if the tool gets jammed or such it can put quite a strain on them causing them to fail.
It would be interesting to see you get a load of electronically dead tools from dean, www.youtube.com/@deandohertygreaser and see if you can revive them.
thats not good that you can not buy new e prom and the firmeware is not avalable
Yes I had that on a Milwaukee circular saw which I couldn't repair (after changing the mosfets), although a viewer did sent me a replacement microcontroller from another broken saw, so I did manage to fix it in a follow up video.
i hope that my many comments are not a bug
i hear that comments are good for the algorithm?
i offer to your spirits and the demon susan
LOL 👍
Not a job for rookie ...
Depends, it's just practice.. I'm no expert after all 🙂
You lucked out! Great!
🙂👍Yes, I had it where the power was fed back on a couple of similar products one was the Milwaukee circular saw I looked at, luckily someone kindly donated a spare microcontroller board so I was able to repair it.