The old hole hog will wrap you up and beat you against every wall in the room if you get it bound up! It will not only break your arms, but the arms of everyone trying to rescue you from its deathly grip. I believe the hole hog was used to start the earth on its permanent rotation.
InsideOfMyOwnMind, sometimes I surprise myself. I have used an old school hole hog. I can promise, I'd probably rather wrestle a wild hog as it would be less work and much safer. Lol
InsideOfMyOwnMind, maybe if it's secured to its own concrete foundation. I don't remember off the top of my head what the max recommended bit size is. However, I think you could reliably auger light pole foundations with it. It would've been safer if it were marketed as a skidsteer attachment. Lol
Many, many, moons ago when I was doing plumbing work, the company I worked for bought a Milwaukee Hole Hawg new for us to use installing plumbing in a log home. As it happened where the owners wanted a toilet was in a small closet like corner of the bathroom. That meant I had to drill a 3 5/8" hole directly through a large log beam. Using a 3 5/8" self-feed bit I got started drilling the hole. The next thing I knew I was bodily jerked off my feet and violently slammed into the walls of the toilet "closet" several times. Thankfully somehow during my impromptu and unwanted merry-go-round trip, I had managed to unplug the drill. Once I quit shaking, I surveyed for bodily damage, finding nothing serious I sheepishly measured, cut, threaded, and installed a piece of pipe in the drill for a reaction bar so that it did not happen again. From that day on I respected and feared that drill and I dreaded using it for any purpose.
in my old work we had big impact hammer drill with no clutch. one day we were installing speaker hangers on the gym in a some kind of hardwaring brick wall and my coworker start spinning on that drill 2 meters above the ground after that we secided to use smaller and shorter bolts to hang those speakers because if one 3/4"wide 3 inches deep hole is strong enough to spin grown man on a drill there is no way it would not hold 250w speaker that man can lift from the ground alone.
I used one of those for 15 years with a long paddle bit to mix tile thin set and shower pan mortar. I had a guy break a thumb and one guy who held on and ended up spinning around a 5 gallon bucket until the cord disconnected. He ended covered in mortar the rest of day, I never saw him again, thankfully. That tool outlasted my ability to lay tile and has a place of honor in my shop.
the_eddies who on earth thought a hole hawg was the ideal tool for mixing grout and mortar, 😂 I know your being honest , but dang you gave me a great laugh.
Was gunnar mention that. But he only reason I knew some a treaded is because I was drilling a 14mm hole through a post one day with my cordless drill and snapped the center screw when the bit named on me so I put the drill in reverse to take it out and the chuck unscrewed itself off the drill. That poor old drill is still running to this day without the retaining screw in it.
that's what i was thinking the entire time he was wailing on it lol. it's probably threaded in the opposite direction of the retaining screw, kinda like that one dewalt brushless drill i had to fix that one time.
If I am not mistaken the reason you were not able to remove the chuck is printed right on the side of it. It is not a taper chuck, but rather a 5/8 threaded chuck. Hence the reason for the left hand center screw.
Left California to Lost Wages, to get rich, found myself on the business end of a holehog for 6 months drilling 2 and 9/16ths holes all day. @ 20years old and 195 lbs spending the last 2 years in the gym. I got to tell ya my foreman made it look easy 40 year old Wisconsin graybeard. Could dead stop it. So he turned it over to me, I was 2nd story up wise doing a vent thru roof, dam framer started sipping early that day put 15 nails in a 2x4.anyway I'm drilling the hole in outside wall it bit down on a nail I bit down on it it chucked me right out of house. If n it hadn't Ben for my cat like reflexes I'd be dead. Six months of shenanigans with that hole hog, and I was ready to sweat copper. Stay in school kids. Hole hoggin ain't easy
we have one of these (obviously) but someone lost the side handle. So me being 170 and just under six foot this thing was ready to toss me off the second story roof, luckily it was only a 5in duct vent hole through some cedar siding. Luckily this hog hasn’t beat me yettt...
I remember being a young Mario in the field when I first encountered this beast of a hawg. My old man warned me to brace it against a stud and me being a strapping young man said I am the stud. As soon as this hawg kicked it whipped back and hit me in the jaw. Stumbling off the ladder I learned my lesson of respecting this boar. Radmatazz video.
Believe it or not, the way to remove the chuck is to have the tool fully assembled, remove the left hand locking screw, then lay the drill on its side and put a short bolt in one of the chuck key holes just above parallel with the bench, then give it a sharp hit downward with a hammer. That usually cracks it loose, then you can spin it off by hand. It sounds like butchery, but that's the way it was done in the 80's (they probably use x-ray lasers or something nowadays). Edit: I should probably add that the chuck shaft's threaded . Please stop brutalizing it with the breaker. Also, the tabs going into the switch come out by just popping them straight out with a screwdriver.
On the threaded chucks you can also clamp the largest Allen key that will fit into the chuck and tap on the end of the key to rotate it off ( once you have removed the retainer screw of course )
On the chuck.... look at the small print on the chuck barrel (@ 26:52).... I think it says THD 5/8-18 ......... means it's a threaded mount onto the arbor..... generally RH thread. Because this drill is a reversing model, they add the LH-threaded machine screw inside the chuck to keep it from unthreading during reversing operations. Most hand-held drills would use a 3/8-24 mount---- this Hole Hawg is Maximum Skookum, I guess. They want the bit to shear-- not the drill's arbor.
The ring is split at the factory. The outer gear holds the two ring halves of the ring together and against the jaw racks. The left thread screw stops the chuck unscrew itself when the drill is run in reverse, which, once the left thread screw is out, is a much easier way of removing the chuck. Let the tool pull itself apart. Hard to do though if the tool is already mostly apart 😀
+AvE I don't know if it's already been mentioned or not but the nut in the chuck that you thought you broke is supposed to be like that - it is broken in half at the factory. How else would you get it past the flange?
Cardboard sleeve is to reduce conduction of heat from motor to housing, ref cooler to operator. With regard to regreasing, power tools, try to use as light a grease as possible, ref NLGI grade 0, or 1. Keep chomping on your bench chap!
My favorite memory was working as an electchicken apprentice standing 6 feet up a ladder drilling a fence post to use to sleeve a wire for a future light. Sure they sell them predrilled but what fun would that be?! I got about chuck deep and all was fine until sparky walked over with a bit extension. As soon as that was on the bit and tight in the chuck he said “ok wait a second” as he got down from the other side of the ladder and stepped about ten feet away then said “ok, go for it!” Wish I knew then why he got that far away but lesson learned! Soon as I started it bound and I learned a valuable lesson. Bumbles DO bounce! I came down after a 1 1/2 twist and a perfect splash into a huge puddle on my head! That was over 30 years ago but like yesterday when I see any of the guys from my old crew because that’s the first thing to come up after “hello!” Good times!
From the owner's manual: Chuck Removal To remove the chuck from the drill: 1.Unplug tool. 2.Fully open the chuck jaws 3.Remove the left-handed thread screw from inside the chuck by turning it clock-wise. 4.Pull the chuck off of the spindle. NOTE: If the chuck does not pull off of the spindle easily, tap the side of the chuck with a hammer to loosen it. If this doesn't work, contact a MILWAUKEE service center.
I vaguely remember a mr pete video in where he takes a chuck apart and explains that "that part" you think you broke, is meant to be in two pieces. The chuck manufacture machines it, and then breaks it to fit into place. ...Am I smoking crack?
@@jonWilk8156 they don't break perfect and thats the whole goal of them, gets way more surface area in the joint. They support half the cap up to the break line then either press or whack it off.
The set screw is left hand thread, but the chuck is right hand threaded onto the shaft. Also those 3 teeth that hold the drill bit will be numbered and have to be installed in the right order to work. It's the same setup as a 3 jaw lathe chuck
I'm a plumber and this tool is all business. Takes two hands and more depending on the hole size. I have twisted drill bit shanks before with this tool. Great video as always you crazy guy!
This one had me in tears, laughing at the tele' as more and more was being thrown at the chuck when it just needs unscrewing. I suppose Mr AvE is much more used to fitting chucks to his mill (which are of course often already mounted on an arbor). Either that or he's just messing with us of course.
My rule for quoting machine shop parts is this: pick 2 out of these 3. Time, price, precision If you want it fast and cheap it’s gonna be crappy. Fast and skookum will cost ya. Cheap and skookum will take time to fit into the schedule.
If you look on the chuck it reads 5/8-11 which means it is threaded onto the shaft. The ring you said you broke is supposed to be in two pieces, so you can get the jaws out if you have to replace/repair them. If removed the jaws have to be put back in place in proper sequence so the jaws emerge correctly.
I was pushing a fireline on a dozer one day and noticed some smoke coming out from under my seat. Well 99.9% of the time it's just pine straw or leaves that have accumulated and an ember gets in there and starts smoking. This time when I reached under the seat to brush out the pine straw, no gloves of course, someone had put some of that 1/4 inch yellow poly rope under my seat and that was on fire with the straw and the leaves. You just can't run away or shake melting poly of your fingers fast enough, caused a 3rd degree burn. I got a little grease off a zerk and covered the burn and kept working but after that day I always checked under my seat before I started work.
Ouch. Anybody that's melted that stuff to seal the ends and forgot to lick their fingers before molding it smooth can imagine just how much that had to hurt. I'm impressed you kept control of that dozer, much less finished the day out.
That big helical gear was most likely double-disc ground. Think of it as a small Blanchard grinder set up for high production. Both sides are ground simultaneously. The parts are inserted into a pocket in a rotating disc that is rotated through 2 grinding wheels. High production stuff....
I fix these for a living. First, how was it running with that spade connector off? Must've just been still touching the terminal but would've broken contact with any vibration. Second, the trminals on the switch are actually flat prongs that slide in. The only thing holding them in there is a slight bend (much like when you bend the prongs of a power cord together to get a more positive grip on the receptical). These routinely fail because the bend relaxes with heat and become loose. Finally, the gears constantly explode on the jobsite. With so many gears and it not being made for formula 1, there's a lot of play between forward and back. Never, ever reverse when the gears are moving. It's so common for those gears to break because of that. Bonus info, there's 2 different chucks, a screw on and a slotted. The slotted slides off, the screw on requires a special tool with 2 tabs on a plate and a hole in the middle to put it on the back side and hold the shaft while you crank on chuck (reverse thread chuck screws must be removed on both). Keep ur dick in a vise.
The hole hawg is the best!! Nothing drives a bit like this bad boy. I rented one from a local tool shop for my Eagle Scout project when I was 17. We had to drill 16” deep holes at 5/8” to drive rebar through two jointed 4x8’s and another full 4x8 below. Gas powered Stihl couldn’t even get through the first 8” before running out of torque. The hole hawg on high could easily get though 12 inches, and on low it went all the way to dirt like the wood was butter. My Eagle Scout project would not have been possible if it wasn’t for this tool. I also nearly broke my wrists so many times with it! But we had so much fun we didn’t even care
Years ago doing plumbing I was drilling a toilet flange hole in a new construction with one of those. The hole saw grabbed the floor, spun me around through a 2x6 corner, and procceeded to to pin my hand to the floor still squeezing the trigger. I grabbed the wire with my free hand and gave it a few yanks to get it unplugged enough to let me go. Moral of the story: those things are the best drills on the planet.
I’ve always wanted you to open up a Rigid Power pony we elechickens use to thread pipe. They’re super beefy and could flip a 200 pound gorilla like it’s nothing.
17yrs old I was when I had my first near death experience with that same drill. Damm near ended up on a parade float I hadn't seen the likes of before with a wrist so limp I woulda been the prize at the ball....live and learn. Love the content man. -Pidge
Local salvage yard uses one of these with a 1/2" drive socket adapter to spin engines. Makes it easy to test compression and oil pressure before buying. They put a 3 foot long handle on to keep it under control.....
If some old engineers who were around to designed proper tools made to last got together and made a set of tools on kickstarter that had the good old quality but with some of the advantages of newer tech , do you think they'd succeed?
+biana doubt why sell 1 million drills to 1 million people? When you can sell 100 million drills to 1 million people. I Dew reclaw after ww2 American manufacturers terrified of americans buying one of something for life, out of that fear came style and design. suddenly how it looks and makes the buyer feel became more important than does it work and will it keep working.
Matt H - before EZ Pass my "favorite" toll collector and i recycled the same half-dollar for two years like it was a hot potato. He would smile when i gave it to him (BTW he started it ;-)
As an engineer iv'e seen far worse done by so called mechanics that i've had to put right And that beauty is only a tool that is educating Ave so yes it's fun to watch as are all his video's there's nothing sick about me watching him! Plus i don't judge others in what they do remember you are here also and if that pains you move on
Probably 1/2-20, and yes, the threaded collar is supposed to be split. Sometimes AvE surprises me with what he doesn't know. Fortunately, his fan base fills that gap. :)
If you grind 3 flats on a bolt and tighten it down in the chick, you can use an impact to spin it off. Just make sure to remove the left hand screw! Also the connectors on the switch can be pulled out. I use to rebuild these daily when I worked as an inhouse mechanic for a plumbing company. Also you are correct that the cardboard causes the stator to get hot and burn up. Most common issue besides cords and switches.
Got the same problem with my old air drill. Chucks dickered and can't set the Jeezlus thing off no matter how much I swear. Thinking maybe oxy gouge the corkstuffer and prey to the blue flame lords.
Some drill chuck's or threaded on the shaft instead of using a Morse taper to lock it on ... Make sure you take out the little retaining screw or bolt at the bottom of the inside of the chuck then clamp the Chuck in a vice or some vice grips's hold on for dear life and turn the drill on and forward or reverse and it should come undone I don't know which way the threads will be cut on your particular drill so you will have to try both forward and reverse but I am betting reverse will do it
cucking funt - Doesn't trying to pull a theaded fastener "straight out" trump "pounding a round peg into a square hole" by a factor of three? I can talk, because I spent quite a bit of frustrating time tying to muscle a General Motors rear disc brake piston back into the caliper, and even bought a new caliper because i thought mine was jammed, until somehow i found out that unlike the fronts, which i have done many times, the rear pistons were THREADED into the caliper to effect adjustment :-p
MR AvE I have a really really old jigsaw by Black n Decker. I didn't know they made such great tools back then. This jigsaw is so skookum I was surpriced to see that still works all metal almost no plastic
My dad had his dad's jigsaw, all metal beige painted, it was a damn well made thing, remember being allowed to use it once when I was a kid...asked my dad recently about...it seemingly torched itself one day..
Great video. I've had mine for about ten years or more and yes it's a beast. I've got it apart now because I'm replacing the cord. So, while it's apart I'm going to finish removing the cheap paint job and polishing the case. The finish started flaking a year after purchase. Total disappointed with Milwaukee for that. Other than that, its been a super tool. The handle that came with mine is almost 12 inches long. And you're right, galvanized pipe with a big rubber handle. Thanks for the video. I was checking out which direction the chuck unscrews. Then found out it just slides on. Easy peasy. Thanks again 👍
Heeeey, the contractor crew I worked with (me and an ol' flooring greybeard) had somethin' similar to one of these! 'Course, the grounding pin was missing (what for giving you a nice shock in the morning to wake you up!), thing was heavier than frig (being made out of good ol' steel) and the damn thing would send your ass into a low earth orbit if you weren't careful, but I've never found a better tool for mixing grout and thinset since.
You have probably already sorted it out but you should try unscrewing the chuck. From past experience if the centre screw is left hand thread the chuck should have a right hand thread. We used to hold a Allen key in the chuck to undo it with but you’re a bit past that now. Thanks for all the great videos . Very informative and entertaining.
I was raised by plumbers. It's kinda like being raised by wolves, except I'm handy around the house. When I was a teenager, I was handing fittings to my dad, who was up on a scaffolding, running some plumbing. He was up on his tip-toes, drilling a hole for 3" pipe, & apparently hit a nail with the selfeed bit in the Hole Hawg. The pipe handle popped out of his hand & whacked him upside the head so hard it shattered *BOTH* his upper & lower dentures. I can't remember exactly what my brother was doing, but he managed to catch his pant leg with a selfeed bit about 4" below the crotch, it wound his pant leg up so tight they had to cut off his pants to give him the stitches. So yeah, I've got some healthy respect for the beast known as a Hole Hawg.
The chuck is threaded to the shaft. You have to hold the shaft to take it off. Right handed thread if I remember correctly. Milwaukee made a factory service tool that fitted to the dogs on the shaft with a hex end or put your shaft in a vice and twist to the left. Its torqued tight.
The chucks on the older versions of these tools are threaded as you can see in this video THD 5/8 -16 on the side of the chuck. Real old versions were 1/2-20. All of these were a pita to get off. The newest versions are slotted across the back and almost fall off once you get the LH retaining bolt out.
Well yes, some were concerned about the lingering cough you had going. Multiple, multiple and multiple cruds caught on those airplane flights. Generally 3 day incubation for resp viral and 10-14 days incubation period for bacterial cruds. Nowadays double cruds found in the ear. One crud will localize external ear canal and another will localize around the eardrum. The crud found in the external ear canal is easy to clear.... the one around the eardrum not so, lasts for weeks, no real pain just pressure and hearing loss. If that eardrum ruptures, grab a culture and sensitivity. May need double antibiotics for 3 wks to fully clear. This last crud can isolate/localize/colonize to other sites and cause more problems. Stay on top of that ear problem, hopefully caught and properly treated..... On that drill you have to be a gymnast from hell to run that thing.
.... with the steroid knocking down the inflammation on the eustachian tube and allowing drainage, good time for at least a gram stain on a throat smear. Any gram pos cocci pulled off and cultured. There's reason for that.... can't call it neglect, who wants to go to some crappy clinic and crappy MD. Length of duration of the ear problem is what sends up a big red flag. I don't think the gtts had much effect and there's a suppressed immune response going on. Steroids are a double edged sword. I'd load up on ETOH , canadian blendeds my favorite.
I thought the chucks had a threaded stub shaft into the back of them and the reversed screw was just there to stop the whole thing unscrewing while it's in use?
Dude, you killed me with that "always be knolling". I couldn't finish that self rightious pricks video for the life of me. I was afraid that if I devoted it to memory I would turn into a mini tyrant.
Fear not Chief Choocher... that ring around the chuck is supposed to be in two pieces. I discovered last year while restoring a 1940 Walker Turner drill press that some drill chucks can be rebuilt. Mine was a Jacobs #33, which looks an awful lot like yours. Jacobs actually sells a kit for them that includes the three jaws and the split nut/ring. Keep up the good fight!!!
Would you say this would work for mixing drywall compound even in our frozen winters? I want me one as soon as you said I could put my pipe end in the handle receptacle bit I lost the handle to my new dewilts and almost broke my wrist the other day when it got caught
At the tender age of 19 as a plumbers aprentice I had to use one of these to drill 4 1/4 inch holes on new constcution. If the bit hit a knot or otherwise bound at 150lbs I was simply along for the ride. Never hold one in such a way that it doesn't pull right out of your hand or you won't have a very long career . In other words "hold on loosely but don't let her go if you cling to tightly you will loose control"
Most formulations for brushes actually contain small amounts of abrasives. Without an abrasive, what tends to happen is that a thick film of carbon can build up which acts as an insulator.
I can't explain how scared I was of using this wrist buster when I was first becoming an electrical apprentice. One of my coworkers twisted his arm and shocked me about his story.
Marcus Aurelius Antoninus Augustus although showing my own baby apprentice (after not using one of these monsters for a couple years) the Way of the Hawg gave me the cold sweats as well!
I had one spin/beat me between 2 wall studs until the cord wrapped around me enough to unplug once when I was a 1st year. I grew up on a farm and knew one of these but I was drilling up for wire runs and didn't have anywhere to let go or drop it when it caught a nail. Only thing to do was let off the trigger and hold on for the ride. Watched a more muscles than sense 1st year break both thumbs one day because he was bigger than me and thought I was BSing him when I told him the thing will throw him across the room. Was his first week on the job but after that he did listen to me when I tried to teach him something.
The chuck screws onto the output shaft. The screw in the middle of the chuck is there to keep the chuck from unscrewing when using reverse. Install the chuck key and hit it with your finger finder. You may need to reassemble it to prevent the output shaft from spinning.
AvE isn't feeling well can we give him a pass on the Chuck thing, if in fact it does unscrew. 15 years ago I set out to change a u-joint on my truck for the life of me I couldn't remember, so I gave my dad a hauler, we both kornfused eachother train of thought. Well my dad went inside so I took a break, remembered how it was done and did it. The point if n you ain't doing it everyday sometimes you forget, especially if you had partaken the green stuff when younger.
That thing is a boat anchor. Worked as an electrician 30 years ago in the suburbs of Milwaukee; a development engineer from Milwaukee came on site and asked how they could make their Hole Hawg better. We told them to make it like the Makita DA6301, it was better in every way.
Not a machinist exactly, but I do have a machine shop and taking apart drill chucks seems to be one of my hobbies. The chuck is likely threaded on. If the screw on the inside is a left hand thread, the chuck is likely a normal thread. After hitting it that hard and it still being attached, it's unlikely to be on a taper. Also, the Jacobs Chuck comes apart that way. It looks to be in good shape, so, clean it up a little and reassemble and you're all good. Keyless chucks (at least the machine types, Rohm, Albrecht etc) are a *completely* different design. I imagine the cheap ones are exactly like you suggest, just a finer thread version of the one you have apart.
I'm German, and we apprentices had a "Mafell" (or was it a Metabo?) "hand"-drill to feed our nightmares. It had a 1 1/4 hp three-phase motor in it. Boss told us ten times to NEVER use that thing alone and the drill bits for it (it used tapered bits) were locked up in a special drawer. The 'thing' was responsible for numerous broken bones and countless busted out teeth anyways. The 70s were a great time to grow up...
I have a 50's-60's version with the drill press attachment, it lives in the DP attachment, at 400 rpm it will rip a 250lb Bubba's arms off. It gets used with the DP attachment for hole saw work, it works GREAT for that job.
If you was unawares, that "broken" screw ring is broken at the factory (really). It is machined, placed in a fixture, and snappen in twain. It's the only way to install it. Also: once you remove the center screw from inside the chuck, the chuck unscrews from the final drive shaft. But only when you haven't first pressed the rotating collar off the chuck.
If the chuck has a "B" in the Jacobs part number, it's threaded and screwed to the drill's output shaft. For a 1/2" chuck probably a 1/2-20 SAE. Regular ol' right hand threads though. "Standard" procedure (before the drill is apart) is to clamp the chuck jaws down on a right angle allen wrench and give it a sharp whack with a mallet. Should spin right off. You'd have to re-assemble the chuck, though. Without the "B" they usually need "chuck wedges" to be removed from the tapered drill output shaft. Of course Jacobs sell those wedges at a non-trivial price. Sigh... Thank you for keeping up the awesome work!! You've helped me out of more than one jam!
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
The old hole hog will wrap you up and beat you against every wall in the room if you get it bound up! It will not only break your arms, but the arms of everyone trying to rescue you from its deathly grip. I believe the hole hog was used to start the earth on its permanent rotation.
InsideOfMyOwnMind, sometimes I surprise myself. I have used an old school hole hog. I can promise, I'd probably rather wrestle a wild hog as it would be less work and much safer. Lol
InsideOfMyOwnMind, maybe if it's secured to its own concrete foundation. I don't remember off the top of my head what the max recommended bit size is. However, I think you could reliably auger light pole foundations with it. It would've been safer if it were marketed as a skidsteer attachment. Lol
David Boerboom, true. I suppose I should say semi-permanent rotation. Or just go with rotation. Thanks for pointing that out for me. 👍
Bet a doll hair I could rastle one!
John Dro, bet I'd let ya!
Many, many, moons ago when I was doing plumbing work, the company I worked for bought a Milwaukee Hole Hawg new for us to use installing plumbing in a log home. As it happened where the owners wanted a toilet was in a small closet like corner of the bathroom. That meant I had to drill a 3 5/8" hole directly through a large log beam. Using a 3 5/8" self-feed bit I got started drilling the hole. The next thing I knew I was bodily jerked off my feet and violently slammed into the walls of the toilet "closet" several times. Thankfully somehow during my impromptu and unwanted merry-go-round trip, I had managed to unplug the drill. Once I quit shaking, I surveyed for bodily damage, finding nothing serious I sheepishly measured, cut, threaded, and installed a piece of pipe in the drill for a reaction bar so that it did not happen again. From that day on I respected and feared that drill and I dreaded using it for any purpose.
Robert G That sounds god damn awful
Blues 000, It was scary and quite painful for sure, but I learned from it and it never happened again.
Pentti Kantanen, LOL! My boss told me to be careful with it...and he did laugh his ass off when I told him about it later.
in my old work we had big impact hammer drill with no clutch. one day we were installing speaker hangers on the gym in a some kind of hardwaring brick wall and my coworker start spinning on that drill 2 meters above the ground
after that we secided to use smaller and shorter bolts to hang those speakers because if one 3/4"wide 3 inches deep hole is strong enough to spin grown man on a drill there is no way it would not hold 250w speaker that man can lift from the ground alone.
That sounds like a lotta goddamn torque, old timer. What the bloody hell did they put in those motors? Welp, time to find out
everyone remembers where they were the first time they used a hole hawg. many are still spinning today.
I used one of those for 15 years with a long paddle bit to mix tile thin set and shower pan mortar. I had a guy break a thumb and one guy who held on and ended up spinning around a 5 gallon bucket until the cord disconnected. He ended covered in mortar the rest of day, I never saw him again, thankfully. That tool outlasted my ability to lay tile and has a place of honor in my shop.
the_eddies we use an old 1/2" drill to mix our concrete. Thing will chunk you right off the bucket.
the_eddies who on earth thought a hole hawg was the ideal tool for mixing grout and mortar, 😂 I know your being honest , but dang you gave me a great laugh.
last time I took a chuck off of a drill, it was threaded on and had to be unscrewed
Ben D unlike milling machines and large drill press almost all hand drills have theaded chucks.
Was gunnar mention that. But he only reason I knew some a treaded is because I was drilling a 14mm hole through a post one day with my cordless drill and snapped the center screw when the bit named on me so I put the drill in reverse to take it out and the chuck unscrewed itself off the drill. That poor old drill is still running to this day without the retaining screw in it.
If there is a left threaded screw inside to fixate it, the main axle has right thread.
You are certainly right about this one lol ask me how I know.😂
Yes Sir! The chuck is threaded.
There were adapters to use on those drills for drilling around corners and such.
Very versatile machine.
9 inches? I don't fold in half for nobody!
lol got that one in a hurry.
Only the tip, and only for a second, mind you.
There was a young fellow from Kent
Whose rod was so long that it bent
To save himself trouble
He folded it double
And instead of coming, he went.
12 inches, but I don't use it as a rule........
Threaded Chuck AvE
1 - 0
that's what i was thinking the entire time he was wailing on it lol. it's probably threaded in the opposite direction of the retaining screw, kinda like that one dewalt brushless drill i had to fix that one time.
If I am not mistaken the reason you were not able to remove the chuck is printed right on the side of it. It is not a taper chuck, but rather a 5/8 threaded chuck. Hence the reason for the left hand center screw.
Left California to Lost Wages, to get rich, found myself on the business end of a holehog for 6 months drilling 2 and 9/16ths holes all day. @ 20years old and 195 lbs spending the last 2 years in the gym. I got to tell ya my foreman made it look easy 40 year old Wisconsin graybeard. Could dead stop it. So he turned it over to me, I was 2nd story up wise doing a vent thru roof, dam framer started sipping early that day put 15 nails in a 2x4.anyway I'm drilling the hole in outside wall it bit down on a nail I bit down on it it chucked me right out of house. If n it hadn't Ben for my cat like reflexes I'd be dead. Six months of shenanigans with that hole hog, and I was ready to sweat copper. Stay in school kids. Hole hoggin ain't easy
Raymond Mucklow I was drilling a 4” hole thru old 1x roof sheathing with one of these. Long story short, hole saw grabbed and it threw me on my ass
I tell my apprentice you what to do when you hit a nail right? And he looks at me with confused eyes and says move over? No I say. You go THROUGH it.
Raymond Mucklow I have a true respect and fear of the ole unforgiving hole hawg .
we have one of these (obviously) but someone lost the side handle. So me being 170 and just under six foot this thing was ready to toss me off the second story roof, luckily it was only a 5in duct vent hole through some cedar siding. Luckily this hog hasn’t beat me yettt...
Sounds like famous last words, Henry...what’re you doin’ ropin’ anyway; the livin’s in stayin’ away from wood. ‘Lergic to da stuff.
Trying to hammer off a threaded chuck.... priceless 8)
So Mr. Disembodied Hands married Ms. Bodiless Knees. Soon enough we might have a whole person breaking shit on camera.
I'd assume the machinists send it right back with the caption "I will choose free will".
Pearty good that one.
Now that was funny
Me: What happened to Permanent Waves?
My Mom: Oh, sorry, I'm using it to teach Logic 101 this semester.
Yes, that actually happened.
Should have sent it to that guy P Floyd. Then you would have gotten it back and it would have ran like A New Machine.
When in doubt, let the machinists figure it out.
I used to build those at the Milwaukee plant in Blytheville, Arkansas back in the mid 90s.
You did an absolute fecking good job. Bravo brother! Have two 90's models still going strong.
So how are you *supposed* to get the chuck off?
@@Vikingwerk it unscrews
@@jonadabster8401 Thank you Sir, as smart as the guy is, sometimes his "engineer" side takes over.............................ffs...
That ring from the Jacobs chuck is meant to be split man. Don't worry yourself, she's still good to go!
That's right. You can't get it in in one piece.
Doubles as a shop table cleaner too
*Wilfuckyee marketing team furiously taking notes*
I do have a friend that now works for Wilfuckyee. I will pass the message along.
jefrhi truly amazing how wilfuckyee though of everything
I remember being a young Mario in the field when I first encountered this beast of a hawg. My old man warned me to brace it against a stud and me being a strapping young man said I am the stud. As soon as this hawg kicked it whipped back and hit me in the jaw. Stumbling off the ladder I learned my lesson of respecting this boar. Radmatazz video.
Believe it or not, the way to remove the chuck is to have the tool fully assembled, remove the left hand locking screw, then lay the drill on its side and put a short bolt in one of the chuck key holes just above parallel with the bench, then give it a sharp hit downward with a hammer. That usually cracks it loose, then you can spin it off by hand. It sounds like butchery, but that's the way it was done in the 80's (they probably use x-ray lasers or something nowadays).
Edit: I should probably add that the chuck shaft's threaded . Please stop brutalizing it with the breaker.
Also, the tabs going into the switch come out by just popping them straight out with a screwdriver.
Not threaded -- on a taper. documents.milwaukeetool.com/54-10-4016.pdf
On the threaded chucks you can also clamp the largest Allen key that will fit into the chuck and tap on the end of the key to rotate it off ( once you have removed the retainer screw of course )
Allen key is how I do em
Bob James, that is eggzacary the way I remember taking the buggers off, all the swillwaukee drills I have owned/used came off in my hand this way....
Make a video. I have 4 of these someone gave me free. Seeing if I can fix em. I'm a visual learner. I'd appreciate the knowledge. 😊
On the chuck.... look at the small print on the chuck barrel (@ 26:52).... I think it says THD 5/8-18 ......... means it's a threaded mount onto the arbor..... generally RH thread. Because this drill is a reversing model, they add the LH-threaded machine screw inside the chuck to keep it from unthreading during reversing operations. Most hand-held drills would use a 3/8-24 mount---- this Hole Hawg is Maximum Skookum, I guess. They want the bit to shear-- not the drill's arbor.
Good eye!
More like they want to sheer the user's arms first
Legend has it that the Hole Hawg was responsible for the coining of the term "Fucking right off on ya"
The ring is split at the factory. The outer gear holds the two ring halves of the ring together and against the jaw racks. The left thread screw stops the chuck unscrew itself when the drill is run in reverse, which, once the left thread screw is out, is a much easier way of removing the chuck. Let the tool pull itself apart. Hard to do though if the tool is already mostly apart 😀
I've only used a hole hawg once. I still walk a little crooked.
My father in law uses a Hole Hog™️ for to start his Model T pickup.
“Two hands for beginners!”
+AvE I don't know if it's already been mentioned or not but the nut in the chuck that you thought you broke is supposed to be like that - it is broken in half at the factory. How else would you get it past the flange?
Agree. It's supposed to be broken in two :)
Came here to say the same, not broken factory split
I wouldn't know and I agree too
Yup. comes factory split!
(I cant believe that I caught an error from the almighty Bimbleflip!)
Yeaa what they all said, i with it
Man I’ve been waiting for this! Todays apprentices don’t know the fear that these induced!
23:13 "She ain't gonna be too happy, unless you give her a little forking."
Robin Boots and demonetized :)
Looks like he gave her a serious forking with all that dark red schmoo on his fingers
I'm gonna admit, I'm no hardware guy - software is my jam - but when that thing caused the lights to flicker I legitimately let out an evil laugh.
Cardboard sleeve is to reduce conduction of heat from motor to housing, ref cooler to operator.
With regard to regreasing, power tools, try to use as light a grease as possible, ref NLGI grade 0, or 1.
Keep chomping on your bench chap!
My favorite AvE word is “Carefulling”. I need that on a shirt.
Isn't the Chuck threaded on?
Not any more.
Yes, it's threaded on, with a retainer screw to keep it from backing off.
No it's not. It's on a taper.
Yep. Sure Is.
Appears to be THD 5/8-18 mount, judging from the stamp on the side...
My favorite memory was working as an electchicken apprentice standing 6 feet up a ladder drilling a fence post to use to sleeve a wire for a future light. Sure they sell them predrilled but what fun would that be?! I got about chuck deep and all was fine until sparky walked over with a bit extension. As soon as that was on the bit and tight in the chuck he said “ok wait a second” as he got down from the other side of the ladder and stepped about ten feet away then said “ok, go for it!” Wish I knew then why he got that far away but lesson learned! Soon as I started it bound and I learned a valuable lesson. Bumbles DO bounce! I came down after a 1 1/2 twist and a perfect splash into a huge puddle on my head! That was over 30 years ago but like yesterday when I see any of the guys from my old crew because that’s the first thing to come up after “hello!” Good times!
It is painful to watch the heat and beat knowing that the Chuck threads on and I can't say I have never made that wrong turn before either
No it's not. It's on a taper. He should have just hit it on the side with a hammer after removing the screw.
Bet you a lemonade its threaded on Steve... this ain't no drill press.
You'd probably be buying me a lemonade then. Unless the Milwaukee parts view is wrong: documents.milwaukeetool.com/54-10-4016.pdf
From the owner's manual: Chuck Removal To remove the chuck from the drill: 1.Unplug tool. 2.Fully open the chuck jaws 3.Remove the left-handed thread screw from inside the chuck by turning it clock-wise. 4.Pull the chuck off of the spindle. NOTE: If the chuck does not pull off of the spindle easily, tap the side of the chuck with a hammer to loosen it. If this doesn't work, contact a MILWAUKEE service center.
Tappy-tap-tap
I vaguely remember a mr pete video in where he takes a chuck apart and explains that "that part" you think you broke, is meant to be in two pieces. The chuck manufacture machines it, and then breaks it to fit into place. ...Am I smoking crack?
jfretless you're right Mr Pete did an awesome video about how chucks work. The ring is split by the factory.
Your exactly right! But are you smoking crack?
That is wild. I suppose it is infinitely easier than threading two pieces.
@@inthefade Ford did the same thing with the 4.6l V8 connecting rods, machined the big ends round as one piece and then split them.
@@jonWilk8156 they don't break perfect and thats the whole goal of them, gets way more surface area in the joint. They support half the cap up to the break line then either press or whack it off.
The set screw is left hand thread, but the chuck is right hand threaded onto the shaft. Also those 3 teeth that hold the drill bit will be numbered and have to be installed in the right order to work. It's the same setup as a 3 jaw lathe chuck
I'm a plumber and this tool is all business. Takes two hands and more depending on the hole size. I have twisted drill bit shanks before with this tool. Great video as always you crazy guy!
This one had me in tears, laughing at the tele' as more and more was being thrown at the chuck when it just needs unscrewing. I suppose Mr AvE is much more used to fitting chucks to his mill (which are of course often already mounted on an arbor). Either that or he's just messing with us of course.
My rule for quoting machine shop parts is this: pick 2 out of these 3.
Time, price, precision
If you want it fast and cheap it’s gonna be crappy. Fast and skookum will cost ya. Cheap and skookum will take time to fit into the schedule.
"Once you get past the smell, you got her licked." Your metaphors slay me.
I love watching you take apart tools that have seen heavy use. It's edifying seeing how things actually wear.
wrists buster is the name of the tool I keep in the vice...
Thomas Richter 😂😂😂
I have one welded to a bench with a slide switch and no handle that i use as an upside down hand mill
@Ave I've been a mechanic for 20 years and I love your v
VJOs !!! You also taught me a new language!!!
Now we know where your daughter's cuteness comes from.
If you look on the chuck it reads 5/8-11 which means it is threaded onto the shaft. The ring you said you broke is supposed to be in two pieces, so you can get the jaws out if you have to replace/repair them. If removed the jaws have to be put back in place in proper sequence so the jaws emerge correctly.
Be careful with those gloves on hot things, i learned the hard way they as plastic and WILL melt to your fingers. That hurts for a long time.
I was pushing a fireline on a dozer one day and noticed some smoke coming out from under my seat. Well 99.9% of the time it's just pine straw or leaves that have accumulated and an ember gets in there and starts smoking. This time when I reached under the seat to brush out the pine straw, no gloves of course, someone had put some of that 1/4 inch yellow poly rope under my seat and that was on fire with the straw and the leaves. You just can't run away or shake melting poly of your fingers fast enough, caused a 3rd degree burn. I got a little grease off a zerk and covered the burn and kept working but after that day I always checked under my seat before I started work.
Ouch. Anybody that's melted that stuff to seal the ends and forgot to lick their fingers before molding it smooth can imagine just how much that had to hurt. I'm impressed you kept control of that dozer, much less finished the day out.
That big helical gear was most likely double-disc ground. Think of it as a small Blanchard grinder set up for high production. Both sides are ground simultaneously. The parts are inserted into a pocket in a rotating disc that is rotated through 2 grinding wheels. High production stuff....
I fix these for a living. First, how was it running with that spade connector off? Must've just been still touching the terminal but would've broken contact with any vibration. Second, the trminals on the switch are actually flat prongs that slide in. The only thing holding them in there is a slight bend (much like when you bend the prongs of a power cord together to get a more positive grip on the receptical). These routinely fail because the bend relaxes with heat and become loose. Finally, the gears constantly explode on the jobsite. With so many gears and it not being made for formula 1, there's a lot of play between forward and back. Never, ever reverse when the gears are moving. It's so common for those gears to break because of that. Bonus info, there's 2 different chucks, a screw on and a slotted. The slotted slides off, the screw on requires a special tool with 2 tabs on a plate and a hole in the middle to put it on the back side and hold the shaft while you crank on chuck (reverse thread chuck screws must be removed on both). Keep ur dick in a vise.
The hole hawg is the best!! Nothing drives a bit like this bad boy. I rented one from a local tool shop for my Eagle Scout project when I was 17. We had to drill 16” deep holes at 5/8” to drive rebar through two jointed 4x8’s and another full 4x8 below. Gas powered Stihl couldn’t even get through the first 8” before running out of torque. The hole hawg on high could easily get though 12 inches, and on low it went all the way to dirt like the wood was butter. My Eagle Scout project would not have been possible if it wasn’t for this tool. I also nearly broke my wrists so many times with it! But we had so much fun we didn’t even care
Insides of that drill look closer to a motorcycle transmission than an impact to me
Always a treat when AvE is about and it cracks me up to hear my missus AvE phrases too
I dont understand the hammering and the bearing separator. Dont you just take out the LH screw and then chuck unscrews RH?
Years ago doing plumbing I was drilling a toilet flange hole in a new construction with one of those. The hole saw grabbed the floor, spun me around through a 2x6 corner, and procceeded to to pin my hand to the floor still squeezing the trigger. I grabbed the wire with my free hand and gave it a few yanks to get it unplugged enough to let me go. Moral of the story: those things are the best drills on the planet.
I’ve always wanted you to open up a Rigid Power pony we elechickens use to thread pipe. They’re super beefy and could flip a 200 pound gorilla like it’s nothing.
200#, Hell I think one will double as a winch on my 4x4.
raM3 ewe , yes ! A 300 . or a 700
texasdee slinglead I’ve only had the pleasure of using a 700 lol.
raM3 and the elusive rothbergs
17yrs old I was when I had my first near death experience with that same drill. Damm near ended up on a parade float I hadn't seen the likes of before with a wrist so limp I woulda been the prize at the ball....live and learn. Love the content man.
-Pidge
Hole Hawg? Did you name this device, AvE?
Szlifier
No! Milwaukee did!
Local salvage yard uses one of these with a 1/2" drive socket adapter to spin engines. Makes it easy to test compression and oil pressure before buying. They put a 3 foot long handle on to keep it under control.....
If some old engineers who were around to designed proper tools made to last got together and made a set of tools on kickstarter that had the good old quality but with some of the advantages of newer tech , do you think they'd succeed?
Juan Alvarez too expensive
They would sell one to anyone who wanted a skookum tool, and never another to the same customer.
+biana doubt why sell 1 million drills to 1 million people? When you can sell 100 million drills to 1 million people. I Dew reclaw after ww2 American manufacturers terrified of americans buying one of something for life, out of that fear came style and design. suddenly how it looks and makes the buyer feel became more important than does it work and will it keep working.
No because they are dead along with their ways.
I think it's called festool.
Perfect timing. I'm locked in a metal box for another 4 hours, and this'll fill the time nicely. Thanks, AvE.
Pentti Kantanen Damn, ya caught me. I was plannin on watching it 8 times is all.
So you the guard or the inmate
David Drescher I'm worss than any criminal... I'm a toll collector.
Matt H - before EZ Pass my "favorite" toll collector and i recycled the same half-dollar for two years like it was a hot potato. He would smile when i gave it to him (BTW he started it ;-)
I think the chuck is threaded on. THD 5/8"-18.
Yes that's why there's a left handed screw to counter the right handed spindle thread but nobody tell him its more fun to watch him figure it out
jos Touw Watching a beauty get butchered like this is fun for you?...you sick animal!
As an engineer iv'e seen far worse done by so called mechanics that i've had to put right
And that beauty is only a tool that is educating Ave so yes it's fun to watch as are all his video's there's nothing sick about me watching him!
Plus i don't judge others in what they do remember you are here also and if that pains you move on
Probably 1/2-20, and yes, the threaded collar is supposed to be split. Sometimes AvE surprises me with what he doesn't know. Fortunately, his fan base fills that gap. :)
If you grind 3 flats on a bolt and tighten it down in the chick, you can use an impact to spin it off. Just make sure to remove the left hand screw! Also the connectors on the switch can be pulled out. I use to rebuild these daily when I worked as an inhouse mechanic for a plumbing company. Also you are correct that the cardboard causes the stator to get hot and burn up. Most common issue besides cords and switches.
Got the same problem with my old air drill. Chucks dickered and can't set the Jeezlus thing off no matter how much I swear. Thinking maybe oxy gouge the corkstuffer and prey to the blue flame lords.
Some drill chuck's or threaded on the shaft instead of using a Morse taper to lock it on ... Make sure you take out the little retaining screw or bolt at the bottom of the inside of the chuck then clamp the Chuck in a vice or some vice grips's hold on for dear life and turn the drill on and forward or reverse and it should come undone I don't know which way the threads will be cut on your particular drill so you will have to try both forward and reverse but I am betting reverse will do it
It's threaded on. You don't normally see a taper fit on something like a hand drill.
FFS.... I'm screaming here..... That chuck UNSCREWS. UNSCREW IT . FFS.
I thought you're supposed to clamp a big allen wrench in the chuck, then wack it with a hammer to anti-torque it.
cucking funt - Doesn't trying to pull a theaded fastener "straight out" trump "pounding a round peg into a square hole" by a factor of three? I can talk, because I spent quite a bit of frustrating time tying to muscle a General Motors rear disc brake piston back into the caliper, and even bought a new caliper because i thought mine was jammed, until somehow i found out that unlike the fronts, which i have done many times, the rear pistons were THREADED into the caliper to effect adjustment :-p
Good to see at least one tuber getting their vids up. Top vid bro
MR AvE I have a really really old jigsaw by Black n Decker. I didn't know they made such great tools back then. This jigsaw is so skookum I was surpriced to see that still works all metal almost no plastic
I got some of my grandpa's B&D grinders from way back when. All metal and will most likely outlive anything made today.
ya crazy
My dad had his dad's jigsaw, all metal beige painted, it was a damn well made thing, remember being allowed to use it once when I was a kid...asked my dad recently about...it seemingly torched itself one day..
Great video. I've had mine for about ten years or more and yes it's a beast. I've got it apart now because I'm replacing the cord. So, while it's apart I'm going to finish removing the cheap paint job and polishing the case. The finish started flaking a year after purchase. Total disappointed with Milwaukee for that. Other than that, its been a super tool. The handle that came with mine is almost 12 inches long. And you're right, galvanized pipe with a big rubber handle.
Thanks for the video. I was checking out which direction the chuck unscrews. Then found out it just slides on. Easy peasy. Thanks again 👍
Heeeey, the contractor crew I worked with (me and an ol' flooring greybeard) had somethin' similar to one of these! 'Course, the grounding pin was missing (what for giving you a nice shock in the morning to wake you up!), thing was heavier than frig (being made out of good ol' steel) and the damn thing would send your ass into a low earth orbit if you weren't careful, but I've never found a better tool for mixing grout and thinset since.
You have probably already sorted it out but you should try unscrewing the chuck. From past experience if the centre screw is left hand thread the chuck should have a right hand thread. We used to hold a Allen key in the chuck to undo it with but you’re a bit past that now.
Thanks for all the great videos . Very informative and entertaining.
The "broken" ring for the chuck is designed to be broken before it is installed or you couldn't get it in the its slot.
That's right, I've heard that before.
I was raised by plumbers. It's kinda like being raised by wolves, except I'm handy around the house.
When I was a teenager, I was handing fittings to my dad, who was up on a scaffolding, running some plumbing. He was up on his tip-toes, drilling a hole for 3" pipe, & apparently hit a nail with the selfeed bit in the Hole Hawg. The pipe handle popped out of his hand & whacked him upside the head so hard it shattered *BOTH* his upper & lower dentures.
I can't remember exactly what my brother was doing, but he managed to catch his pant leg with a selfeed bit about 4" below the crotch, it wound his pant leg up so tight they had to cut off his pants to give him the stitches.
So yeah, I've got some healthy respect for the beast known as a Hole Hawg.
Is the elec-chicken the guy who says "Let go of my ears, I know what I'm doing"!
I'll ask Dewclaw if that was a regular part of his apprentiship or just his journeyman examination.
A good journeyman knows when he's been licked.
The chuck is threaded to the shaft. You have to hold the shaft to take it off. Right handed thread if I remember correctly. Milwaukee made a factory service tool that fitted to the dogs on the shaft with a hex end or put your shaft in a vice and twist to the left. Its torqued tight.
"Always be knolling" LOL'd out loud on that one!
Did you do it while holding a PCB board at 3am in the morning?
The chucks on the older versions of these tools are threaded as you can see in this video THD 5/8 -16 on the side of the chuck. Real old versions were 1/2-20. All of these were a pita to get off. The newest versions are slotted across the back and almost fall off once you get the LH retaining bolt out.
Well yes, some were concerned about the lingering cough you had going. Multiple, multiple and multiple cruds caught on those airplane flights. Generally 3 day incubation for resp viral and 10-14 days incubation period for bacterial cruds. Nowadays double cruds found in the ear. One crud will localize external ear canal and another will localize around the eardrum. The crud found in the external ear canal is easy to clear.... the one around the eardrum not so, lasts for weeks, no real pain just pressure and hearing loss. If that eardrum ruptures, grab a culture and sensitivity. May need double antibiotics for 3 wks to fully clear. This last crud can isolate/localize/colonize to other sites and cause more problems. Stay on top of that ear problem, hopefully caught and properly treated..... On that drill you have to be a gymnast from hell to run that thing.
Neglect and strong drink didn't work. Now it's antibacterial drops and steroids. Marked improvement already!
.... with the steroid knocking down the inflammation on the eustachian tube and allowing drainage, good time for at least a gram stain on a throat smear. Any gram pos cocci pulled off and cultured. There's reason for that.... can't call it neglect, who wants to go to some crappy clinic and crappy MD. Length of duration of the ear problem is what sends up a big red flag. I don't think the gtts had much effect and there's a suppressed immune response going on. Steroids are a double edged sword. I'd load up on ETOH , canadian blendeds my favorite.
Thanks, teton tom! "I just endured *another* ETOH treatment" should justify about any behavior shouldn't it? ;-)
.... the good therapy. keeps those psychotic episodes down to a dull roar.
Not to mention the tremors and puking! 8-D
10:55 Is the fan sucking in the front of the tool? like the side with the dust?
Jttv that reminds me , hole hawg and arbors , the only drilling setup that produces actual broken pieces of wood in mass .
I thought the chucks had a threaded stub shaft into the back of them and the reversed screw was just there to stop the whole thing unscrewing while it's in use?
I'm from Milwaukee. It's a great city. We love our beer, spirits, sausage & festivals.
Dude, you killed me with that "always be knolling". I couldn't finish that self rightious pricks video for the life of me. I was afraid that if I devoted it to memory I would turn into a mini tyrant.
Fear not Chief Choocher... that ring around the chuck is supposed to be in two pieces.
I discovered last year while restoring a 1940 Walker Turner drill press that some drill chucks can be rebuilt. Mine was a Jacobs #33, which looks an awful lot like yours. Jacobs actually sells a kit for them that includes the three jaws and the split nut/ring.
Keep up the good fight!!!
Would you say this would work for mixing drywall compound even in our frozen winters? I want me one as soon as you said I could put my pipe end in the handle receptacle bit
I lost the handle to my new dewilts and almost broke my wrist the other day when it got caught
At the tender age of 19 as a plumbers aprentice I had to use one of these to drill 4 1/4 inch holes on new constcution. If the bit hit a knot or otherwise bound at 150lbs I was simply along for the ride. Never hold one in such a way that it doesn't pull right out of your hand or you won't have a very long career . In other words "hold on loosely but don't let her go if you cling to tightly you will loose control"
AvE you never disappoint
Most formulations for brushes actually contain small amounts of abrasives. Without an abrasive, what tends to happen is that a thick film of carbon can build up which acts as an insulator.
I can't explain how scared I was of using this wrist buster when I was first becoming an electrical apprentice. One of my coworkers twisted his arm and shocked me about his story.
Marcus Aurelius Antoninus Augustus although showing my own baby apprentice (after not using one of these monsters for a couple years) the Way of the Hawg gave me the cold sweats as well!
I had one spin/beat me between 2 wall studs until the cord wrapped around me enough to unplug once when I was a 1st year. I grew up on a farm and knew one of these but I was drilling up for wire runs and didn't have anywhere to let go or drop it when it caught a nail. Only thing to do was let off the trigger and hold on for the ride.
Watched a more muscles than sense 1st year break both thumbs one day because he was bigger than me and thought I was BSing him when I told him the thing will throw him across the room. Was his first week on the job but after that he did listen to me when I tried to teach him something.
Narcoleptic Chech for plumbing too...
Have you ever watched your videos with auto-generated subtitles turned on?
It is a work of art!
Have you tried a bigger hammer?
The chuck screws onto the output shaft. The screw in the middle of the chuck is there to keep the chuck from unscrewing when using reverse. Install the chuck key and hit it with your finger finder. You may need to reassemble it to prevent the output shaft from spinning.
AvE isn't feeling well can we give him a pass on the Chuck thing, if in fact it does unscrew. 15 years ago I set out to change a u-joint on my truck for the life of me I couldn't remember, so I gave my dad a hauler, we both kornfused eachother train of thought. Well my dad went inside so I took a break, remembered how it was done and did it. The point if n you ain't doing it everyday sometimes you forget, especially if you had partaken the green stuff when younger.
InsideOfMyOwnMind word.
InsideOfMyOwnMind - Or a new way to say fuggetaboudit.
That thing is a boat anchor. Worked as an electrician 30 years ago in the suburbs of Milwaukee; a development engineer from Milwaukee came on site and asked how they could make their Hole Hawg better. We told them to make it like the Makita DA6301, it was better in every way.
i spent the first two and a half minutes thinking "that handle is npt" haha, lets thread a 21' handle onto that bad boy lol.
BC dirt does taste better! Don't tell anyone else tho.
BCDirt TastesBetter stick a full joint of sch 80 galvy
Not a machinist exactly, but I do have a machine shop and taking apart drill chucks seems to be one of my hobbies.
The chuck is likely threaded on. If the screw on the inside is a left hand thread, the chuck is likely a normal thread. After hitting it that hard and it still being attached, it's unlikely to be on a taper.
Also, the Jacobs Chuck comes apart that way. It looks to be in good shape, so, clean it up a little and reassemble and you're all good.
Keyless chucks (at least the machine types, Rohm, Albrecht etc) are a *completely* different design. I imagine the cheap ones are exactly like you suggest, just a finer thread version of the one you have apart.
I'm German, and we apprentices had a "Mafell" (or was it a Metabo?) "hand"-drill to feed our nightmares. It had a 1 1/4 hp three-phase motor in it. Boss told us ten times to NEVER use that thing alone and the drill bits for it (it used tapered bits) were locked up in a special drawer. The 'thing' was responsible for numerous broken bones and countless busted out teeth anyways.
The 70s were a great time to grow up...
Nice that you keep this one alive...it shows we are all human!
Wouldn’t that “CH” switch be “Cutler-Hammer”?
That's what the logo looks like to me.
Yes. Eaton-made. Cole-Hersee doesn't make tool switches, and have a substantially different logo.
Regarding chuck removal: at 26:52; the chuck is marked telling the user that the chuck is threaded on with a 5/8"-18 thread.
1400 views in 4 minutes?! Damn, son! Time to release the schmoo
More like a week and 4 minutes. Patrons get early access.
he did...
it's on his middle finger
I have a 50's-60's version with the drill press attachment, it lives in the DP attachment, at 400 rpm it will rip a 250lb Bubba's arms off. It gets used with the DP attachment for hole saw work, it works GREAT for that job.
Omg we hear AVE'S wife's voice omg
If you was unawares, that "broken" screw ring is broken at the factory (really). It is machined, placed in a fixture, and snappen in twain. It's the only way to install it. Also: once you remove the center screw from inside the chuck, the chuck unscrews from the final drive shaft. But only when you haven't first pressed the rotating collar off the chuck.
"This guy is quite tight; but no chunks taken out of the balls"... What the hell is under your bench?
Absolutely loved lending mine to new-bees and hearing the bull riding stories when returned.
Sooo.... Ave, you wanna go camping? 😂😂😂
If the chuck has a "B" in the Jacobs part number, it's threaded and screwed to the drill's output shaft. For a 1/2" chuck probably a 1/2-20 SAE. Regular ol' right hand threads though. "Standard" procedure (before the drill is apart) is to clamp the chuck jaws down on a right angle allen wrench and give it a sharp whack with a mallet. Should spin right off. You'd have to re-assemble the chuck, though. Without the "B" they usually need "chuck wedges" to be removed from the tapered drill output shaft. Of course Jacobs sell those wedges at a non-trivial price. Sigh... Thank you for keeping up the awesome work!! You've helped me out of more than one jam!