You really had me goin' when you retracted the guard and manually turned the blade, whilst you had a finger on the trigger, the battery fitted and the safety interlock removed !!!
He almost lost his finger there! 😂 It happens to all of us! You forget the danger. I have been zapped with 230V due to the same dumb habit multiple times.
@@mart43i also had been zapped by 240. I actually thought i turned off the switch to the device i was working on but i later discovered i actually turned it on and it zapped me
@@mart43 I've been on 15 mtre scaffolding with the state inspector saying i can finish the last fitting on a girder cos the power is off, and had my screwdriver arc welded a hole in it. So close to 230v. ya never know.
I know what you mean. I made a video of fixing a mini drill and forgot I'd just tested it before taking it apart again to film. Didn't get a belt but left it in the video as a reminder.
I'm glad the guy with the car turned up and now we know you weren't fobbing us off. I cringed when you messed about with the guard with your finger on the trigger !! And you should defo make that replacement board, that would be amazing if you filmed your process....cheers.
Cheers Andymouse 😂😂fobbing you off 😂😂Yes I didn't really noticed the blade / trigger until I looked back at the video when editing. I'll try to be more careful next time!
Might be worth giving Dean Doherty a poke regarding the saw. If you aren't familiar, he does a lot of tool repairs as well on his channel. Maybe you could bounce ideas around, if not for this project, then maybe future work!
My most extreme key fob repair was a mates Landrover key that his dog had chewed on and turned into a mangled soggy lump. Somehow managed to make 1 good one out that and a spare that was physically OK but non-functional due to not being coded to the car. Can’t now recall exactly what I did as it was a long while ago, but much swapping of tiny components was involved ;) Done many of the ‘fallen off switch’ repairs over the years too. I usually add some glue to help reinforce them a bit as folk tend to press them really hard at times and they are such tiny things.
18:05 - Try with dremel and green rubber tip next time, its for polishing. Scratching with screwdriver or sandpaper will clean, but will make it accumulate dirt faster because of rough surface caused by scratching.
Speaking of repairs, if you like audio stuff I'd highly recommend the channel Mend it Mark - he's really excellent and is the audio equivalent of this great channel in terms of skill, knowledge and a relaxed and informative approach.
Thanks Mate, I was honestly struggling to get a video out for this week. I didn't get to bed until 4AM last night as we had two sheep both having twins! I'll hopefully get on to your bike intercom this week.
Nice fix on that keyfob. You saved that man so much money by not replacing that key. Good job mate !!! Same for the circular saw. Very nice fix there. Yes I am hoping to see more of those fixes. Always good and entertaining and educational to watch. Learning so much. See you in the next repair video.
@@BuyitFixit Call it the 'Wrong Name Tax' for not knowing the name of the chap that's doing you a favour. Lol (I'm joking, just in case the other guy is reading this. It happens to all of us(Just not on camera haha))
The main switch contacts carry much more current so tend to self clean in operation. Not sot so with the top switch which is why they tend to tarnish and oxidize.
I've fixed many milwaukee saws with faulty switches like that. I also find with milwaukee tools in general if the led light doesn't come on the micro controller has died. Love you videos!
I’ve 4:04 repaired these buttons, melt the plastic corner retainers remove the cage , under the plastic button is a disc that is rounded so inverts with pressure. In the lower housing is contacts , clean the contacts and the underside of the disc and reassemble and remelt the corners . 3d print filament also works if you butcher the corners
You can purchase a Key Fob tester - it's invaluable if you do these kinds of repairs on a regular basis (as I used to do) and can eliminate many avenues of diagnosis quickly. Note: The difference between the cheapest and most expensive brands is negligible but just make sure that you purchase one that checks IR and RF across a range of frequencies.
Thanks for that. I remember my component tester does IR, and I've got a HackRF which I could have used to test the RF. I completely forgot about that at the time, at least he brought the car over and we were able to confirm it was all working 👍
Hello. Your Milwaukee saw seems to have exact same problem as mine. First and most obvious problem was the trigger failure, and this was the point, but not the only one. Next time, if fault returns, try with flex ribbon cable :)) May The Force Be With You :))
Super fixer upper you are bro. A couple of great repairs, I'd still be trying to put that saw back together. Nice video, well done, thanks. See ya soon.
@@BuyitFixit Probably true. It might just have been the sound, and yes, it did cut well. I have tried mine (M12) and it's about the same, only not as powerful. I guess I'm more used to the mechanic type tools that have variable speed triggers. Great fix, Mick. You inspire and give me hope. Now. I need to watch a few more MrSolderFix videos to improve my soldering skills. I'm trying to fix an M-18 impact gun. I had to desolder the board from the motor body because it seemed to take away all the heat from the rework gun. Looking forward to your next repair.
Thanks 👍Yes I've had to remove the board from the motor bodies a few times too (not sure if on this video, as I've done a couple of these saws and the SDS drills which are very similar motors) and it does make it easier to remove the mosfets 👍
Thanks 👍Yes I'll have a try at pretty much anything. After all.. it's already broke, and If I can't fix it... it's still broke so nothing lost really, and possibly some experience gained if nothing else 🙂
Thanks for the suggestion. I've got some small needle files somewhere, but someone suggested putting a polishing tip into a dremel (I've got one for the little grinding pen which would have done the job but completely forgot about it).
it's a common problem with big switches like that when they have a big contact patch and is switching signal level current, that the current is not enough to break through the oxide layer.
I do a lot of vintage hifi. If I come across power switch contacts that wont clean with contact cleaner ( and of course never use Deoxit on power switches) , I have used small amount of car polish on cotton bud- does the job ( rinse polish off with contact cleaner). Just don't use polish on GOLD contacts.....
@@BuyitFixit i know your duster.... i look your videos 😱😱😱(how dare i ) but at 24:51 the video plays faster and your vac sounds like a laser blaster 🤣🤣🤣🤣.
Thanks 👍I'll see if I can get some other brands. I started off by buying things to expand my own collection of Milwaukee tools, hence mainly Milwaukee repairs.
I bet the micro controller for the saw and hall effect sensors are paired up. They probably calibrate the controller to the hall effect sensors so probably if you got a new controller it wouldn't be 100% would be my guess. It is a shame but I guess variations in the parts means they are paired when put together.
Good Idea, I've used my BladeRF a while back to do that with a friends Toyota keyfob. I've got a HackRF with portapack too, which would have been good to use on the video but I totally forgot!
7:35 you can test it, make a coil with enough turns and put an rd diode inline then connect across your scope , you’ll see a signal even if way out of tune thanks to harmonics
Mick, nice fixes both of them, the key fob could be down to being pressed too hard as it failed again so soon. The saw was weird how it was breaking ok then wasn’t glad you sorted them out though well done 😊
i alway pry the ribbon and when its not the switch i start with replacing the ribbon, most errors come from damage to the ribbon cable. or dirty contacts. i find verry few with broken mosfets. the ribbon are just 2 euros for 10 or so
Interesting. I've repaired quite a few similar tools and a lot of the time it's been blown mosfets. The SDS drills have a very similar board and motor.
Great video! Regarding the potted custom microcontroller - I seriously hate it when companies of all types don't supply parts at reasonable prices, this of course leads devices that are uneconomical to repair and hence more waste. The companies of course don't give a damn because all they are interested in is profit. There should be laws to ban such practices but of course it'll never happen because too many governments are in the back pockets of big corporations.
Thanks 👍Yes I'm surprised there's not a replacement board already on Aliexpress or such. I think it would make a good little project as there are a few of the Milwaukee tools use an almost identical board / motor just with a slightly different firmware (SDS drill has speed control and forward / reverse for instance) where the saw just has On/Off but it's the same motor and control board.
Danke für das Video, guter Job. Kontakte sollte man nicht mit Schmirgelpapier reinigen - beschädigt die *silberne* Kontaktschicht. Besser ist der *Glasfaserstift* LG
I'm a locksmith and these key fob buttons always break because people push too hard (and too often) on them. Also, many are inferior in design. I've fixed a few of the more expensive ones. But sometimes it's better to replace with new because some aren't that much money. $20-40 bucks
I got key fob aluminum case, from china. After 5 years I had to open in to replace battery, keyfob is brand new still, I compared it to unused one. Buttons click perfectly. I use car on daily basis. Aluminum case was maybe 5-10 euros.
I'm no expert but a lot of the cars you need special software or such to program the car to accept a new key, although I know there are some cars that you insert a master key first and then press things in a certain sequence which allows you do to the same.
I did not want to see or hear ouch in this one. please remove the blade before starting work . I have caught my finger in circular saw and it hurts a lot and makes you sad. Well worked out fixes though. And a no lobing things on the desk like Dean the greaser Dougherty , but you are both great. thanks 👌
Why didn't you replace both switches while you had the key fob apart? It checked good on your meter but unless you replaced it earlier it would be prone to fail in the near future as well.
I absolutely love my Milwaukee tools . But the fact that they don’t make that part available is kinda of crappy . The only thing I can think is it’s a matter of they don’t want people using them for other purposes. Probably why they encase the part in resin . Texas Instruments is very strange about there tech . They have weird part numbers for their IC’s that are hard to cross reference with other things . They have been doing that since the beginning of their company. I work on pinball machines from the late seventies and even then they had strange company specific part numbers that are hard to cross reference to anything else .
Interesting, I've worked on a few pinball machines too back in the late 80s early 90s. I remember Hook, Partyzone and Terminator were a few that I worked on.
The same Circular Saw body in Germany costs about 290€, these are 250 Pounds. This is about 60 Pounds more expensive in Germany compare it with the UK price Wow!
I also volunteer at a couple of local repair cafés and yes, you can take stuff home to work on. The customer has to sign a form to say it's ok. Sometimes I need to dive deeper and it'll be quicker and easier with my set-up at home rather than the few tools/spares I took - I don't usually take a hot air station with me for example, but 90% of the time my basic travel kit is enough.
Yes, sometimes it's easier to do things at home as we have more equipment. One of the items I've to look at is a Canon DSLR which got dropped into a stream and was left in a cupboard for around a year or so. I wouldn't even try to tackle something like that on the day.
@@BuyitFixit Spring hook probes for wires, through hole legs. Insulated croc clips for bigger things and chassis (0 V). Back probes for pushing down the back of tiny multi pin plastic enclosed connectors or indeed into the front. All with shrouded 4 mm connectors to your test leads.
Dacia - French car, but worse I own a 2016 Duster, that got the horrible roof rails. The person that designed this turd doesn't live where they get snow in the winter.
Then you have the issue of trying to program the car to accept the new key. I know some cars such as the older Toyota have a sequence of pressing the brake, and and accelerator a number of times while inserting keys to do this, otherwise you need to use special software as far as I know.
If you use a Brown paper bag or a pencil eraser is good to polish contacts but the right tool is called a burnishing tool take it from a Old IT/electronics guy.
You really had me goin' when you retracted the guard and manually turned the blade, whilst you had a finger on the trigger, the battery fitted and the safety interlock removed !!!
He almost lost his finger there! 😂 It happens to all of us! You forget the danger. I have been zapped with 230V due to the same dumb habit multiple times.
@@mart43i also had been zapped by 240. I actually thought i turned off the switch to the device i was working on but i later discovered i actually turned it on and it zapped me
@@mart43 I've been on 15 mtre scaffolding with the state inspector saying i can finish the last fitting on a girder cos the power is off, and had my screwdriver arc welded a hole in it. So close to 230v. ya never know.
I know what you mean. I made a video of fixing a mini drill and forgot I'd just tested it before taking it apart again to film. Didn't get a belt but left it in the video as a reminder.
Me too.....
I'm glad the guy with the car turned up and now we know you weren't fobbing us off. I cringed when you messed about with the guard with your finger on the trigger !! And you should defo make that replacement board, that would be amazing if you filmed your process....cheers.
Cheers Andymouse 😂😂fobbing you off 😂😂Yes I didn't really noticed the blade / trigger until I looked back at the video when editing. I'll try to be more careful next time!
That's 'Key' message @andymouse, safety first!
@@marcyd2007 I thought it was "safety third"! LOL!
Might be worth giving Dean Doherty a poke regarding the saw. If you aren't familiar, he does a lot of tool repairs as well on his channel. Maybe you could bounce ideas around, if not for this project, then maybe future work!
My most extreme key fob repair was a mates Landrover key that his dog had chewed on and turned into a mangled soggy lump. Somehow managed to make 1 good one out that and a spare that was physically OK but non-functional due to not being coded to the car. Can’t now recall exactly what I did as it was a long while ago, but much swapping of tiny components was involved ;)
Done many of the ‘fallen off switch’ repairs over the years too. I usually add some glue to help reinforce them a bit as folk tend to press them really hard at times and they are such tiny things.
Nice 👍I've done a few key fobs over the years, usually just buttons fallen off or non responsive buttons.
18:05 - Try with dremel and green rubber tip next time, its for polishing. Scratching with screwdriver or sandpaper will clean, but will make it accumulate dirt faster because of rough surface caused by scratching.
Great Idea! I didn't think if that at the time. I'll try to remember that for next time!
I have a tiny little engraving tool which does the same thing. Even less aggressive than my dremel.
King of the repair guys😂 yet again you get it figured & fixed in no time 👍💪
Thanks 👍
Speaking of repairs, if you like audio stuff I'd highly recommend the channel Mend it Mark - he's really excellent and is the audio equivalent of this great channel in terms of skill, knowledge and a relaxed and informative approach.
Fibreglass pencil would be good for tricky parts like that. Great watch as always
@@stef2198 Thanks 👍I've since bought a set of 4 pencils. There's a fiberglass, nylon,brass and steel 🙂
I thought for a moment we were going to see the fastest video in history LOL Great job my friend 🙂
Thanks Mate, I was honestly struggling to get a video out for this week. I didn't get to bed until 4AM last night as we had two sheep both having twins! I'll hopefully get on to your bike intercom this week.
Heya, never seen these kind of machines from the inside so learned a lot day thanks
Cheers 👍
Nice fix on that keyfob. You saved that man so much money by not replacing that key. Good job mate !!! Same for the circular saw. Very nice fix there. Yes I am hoping to see more of those fixes. Always good and entertaining and educational to watch. Learning so much. See you in the next repair video.
Thank you 👍Cheers 🙂
Nice fixes Mick, great work as always. I would have charged the Dacia guy for calling you Mike lol 😁😁
Thanks Marc 😂😂😂Yes I noticed that but didn't say anything.
@@BuyitFixit Call it the 'Wrong Name Tax' for not knowing the name of the chap that's doing you a favour. Lol (I'm joking, just in case the other guy is reading this. It happens to all of us(Just not on camera haha))
😂😂
The main switch contacts carry much more current so tend to self clean in operation. Not sot so with the top switch which is why they tend to tarnish and oxidize.
Interesting, thanks for that 👍
I've fixed many milwaukee saws with faulty switches like that. I also find with milwaukee tools in general if the led light doesn't come on the micro controller has died. Love you videos!
Cheers mate 👍
You were a flux sniper on that fob. Excellent work
Like others you had my heart palpitating with the tool guard. Its so easy to lose a finger
Thanks 👍 Yes, I didn't realise at the time, wasn't until I was editing.
I’ve 4:04 repaired these buttons, melt the plastic corner retainers remove the cage , under the plastic button is a disc that is rounded so inverts with pressure. In the lower housing is contacts , clean the contacts and the underside of the disc and reassemble and remelt the corners . 3d print filament also works if you butcher the corners
Interesting, although I the cost of replacement buttons was very cheap from Amazon. I think it was £7 for a set of 250.
There's quite a spectrum of items here, a key fob and a saw, almost as thematically far away from one another as possible... Nice fix mate :)
Cheers 👍
You can purchase a Key Fob tester - it's invaluable if you do these kinds of repairs on a regular basis (as I used to do) and can eliminate many avenues of diagnosis quickly. Note: The difference between the cheapest and most expensive brands is negligible but just make sure that you purchase one that checks IR and RF across a range of frequencies.
Thanks for that. I remember my component tester does IR, and I've got a HackRF which I could have used to test the RF. I completely forgot about that at the time, at least he brought the car over and we were able to confirm it was all working 👍
Hello.
Your Milwaukee saw seems to have exact same problem as mine.
First and most obvious problem was the trigger failure, and this was the point, but not the only one.
Next time, if fault returns, try with flex ribbon cable :))
May The Force Be With You :))
Thanks 👍and you too!
Nice fix, as always, Mick. Thanks for sharing.
Cheers Mate 👍
Clickin and rippin two for the price of one.🤣🤣🤣
😂😂😂Good one 👍🙂
Super fixer upper you are bro. A couple of great repairs, I'd still be trying to put that saw back together. Nice video, well done, thanks. See ya soon.
Cheers Terry 👍
Great fix but maybe it would be a good idea to remove the blade before testing that circular saw?
I agree. 10:34 That was sketchy thing to do with a battery hooked up.
Agree too, one of those things you don't really think about until you review the video or notice it until editing.
In some key fobs, the skin oil seeps around the buttons on to the contact and makes actuation intermittent.
22:20 Just watching this one now, 3 months late, but I'm posting as if it's new. That motor also seems slow to me.. Ok, back to it🙂
I'm not sure it can run slow, as the MCU determines the speed. Unless there is too much mechanical load on it somehow but it seemed to cut ok.
@@BuyitFixit Probably true. It might just have been the sound, and yes, it did cut well. I have tried mine (M12) and it's about the same, only not as powerful. I guess I'm more used to the mechanic type tools that have variable speed triggers. Great fix, Mick. You inspire and give me hope. Now. I need to watch a few more MrSolderFix videos to improve my soldering skills. I'm trying to fix an M-18 impact gun. I had to desolder the board from the motor body because it seemed to take away all the heat from the rework gun. Looking forward to your next repair.
Thanks 👍Yes I've had to remove the board from the motor bodies a few times too (not sure if on this video, as I've done a couple of these saws and the SDS drills which are very similar motors) and it does make it easier to remove the mosfets 👍
Hello again Mick from Australia 🙃
Yet another great fix or fixers in this case, nice work.
Cheers mate 👍
You can really fix anything..😀. great job!!
Thanks 👍Yes I'll have a try at pretty much anything. After all.. it's already broke, and If I can't fix it... it's still broke so nothing lost really, and possibly some experience gained if nothing else 🙂
Love to see you make your own board, very interesting content
Thanks 👍
Older mechanics would have had a points file to use on those contacts Mick. Could be worth getting one for your arsenal.
Thanks for the suggestion. I've got some small needle files somewhere, but someone suggested putting a polishing tip into a dremel (I've got one for the little grinding pen which would have done the job but completely forgot about it).
ah the end of a screw driver, a poor mans sandpaper lol I lose count of the times thats got me out of trouble
😂😂😂👍
Mick, I can't believe your luck. Thanks for sharing.
Cheers Brian 👍
it's a common problem with big switches like that when they have a big contact patch and is switching signal level current, that the current is not enough to break through the oxide layer.
Interesting, someone else also mentioned the same 👍
I do a lot of vintage hifi. If I come across power switch contacts that wont clean with contact cleaner ( and of course never use Deoxit on power switches) , I have used small amount of car polish on cotton bud- does the job ( rinse polish off with contact cleaner). Just don't use polish on GOLD contacts.....
Thanks for the tip 👍
Interesting faults and nice repairs 🙂👍
Cheers Mr JSV👍
Nice work👍👍👍👍👍
24:51 Did you use Sar Wars Vac Blaster😳 .
Wow.. what a sound and power🤣🤣
Thanks 👍 It was the small Milwaukee Vacuum I repaired some time ago on a previous video. I use it regularly to clean my bench 🙂
@@BuyitFixit i know your duster.... i look your videos 😱😱😱(how dare i ) but at 24:51 the video plays faster and your vac sounds like a laser blaster 🤣🤣🤣🤣.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Love the videos would be nice to see some different brand tool repairs to see how different they are.
Thanks 👍I'll see if I can get some other brands. I started off by buying things to expand my own collection of Milwaukee tools, hence mainly Milwaukee repairs.
I bet the micro controller for the saw and hall effect sensors are paired up. They probably calibrate the controller to the hall effect sensors so probably if you got a new controller it wouldn't be 100% would be my guess. It is a shame but I guess variations in the parts means they are paired when put together.
A cheap RTL-SDR dongle is very handy to verify that remotes are working.
Good Idea, I've used my BladeRF a while back to do that with a friends Toyota keyfob. I've got a HackRF with portapack too, which would have been good to use on the video but I totally forgot!
Great stream, thanks Mick 😀
Cheers Mike 👍
7:35 you can test it, make a coil with enough turns and put an rd diode inline then connect across your scope , you’ll see a signal even if way out of tune thanks to harmonics
I've got a HackRF with a porta pack which would have been ideal, but I totally forgot about it at the time 🤦♂️
Mick, nice fixes both of them, the key fob could be down to being pressed too hard as it failed again so soon.
The saw was weird how it was breaking ok then wasn’t glad you sorted them out though well done 😊
Cheers Gary 👍
@@BuyitFixit you’re welcome 😉
i alway pry the ribbon and when its not the switch i start with replacing the ribbon, most errors come from damage to the ribbon cable. or dirty contacts. i find verry few with broken mosfets. the ribbon are just 2 euros for 10 or so
Interesting. I've repaired quite a few similar tools and a lot of the time it's been blown mosfets. The SDS drills have a very similar board and motor.
That was agreat fix mate. Cheers!
Cheers mate 👍
Great video!
Regarding the potted custom microcontroller - I seriously hate it when companies of all types don't supply parts at reasonable prices, this of course leads devices that are uneconomical to repair and hence more waste. The companies of course don't give a damn because all they are interested in is profit.
There should be laws to ban such practices but of course it'll never happen because too many governments are in the back pockets of big corporations.
Thanks 👍Yes I'm surprised there's not a replacement board already on Aliexpress or such. I think it would make a good little project as there are a few of the Milwaukee tools use an almost identical board / motor just with a slightly different firmware (SDS drill has speed control and forward / reverse for instance) where the saw just has On/Off but it's the same motor and control board.
Nice fix...
Thanks 👍
Another great fix.
Thanks 👍
Danke für das Video, guter Job.
Kontakte sollte man nicht mit Schmirgelpapier reinigen - beschädigt die *silberne* Kontaktschicht. Besser ist der *Glasfaserstift* LG
I'm a locksmith and these key fob buttons always break because people push too hard (and too often) on them.
Also, many are inferior in design.
I've fixed a few of the more expensive ones.
But sometimes it's better to replace with new because some aren't that much money. $20-40 bucks
I got key fob aluminum case, from china. After 5 years I had to open in to replace battery, keyfob is brand new still, I compared it to unused one. Buttons click perfectly. I use car on daily basis. Aluminum case was maybe 5-10 euros.
I would expect aluminium to shield the RF somewhat and reduce the effective range.@@orion310591RS
I'm no expert but a lot of the cars you need special software or such to program the car to accept a new key, although I know there are some cars that you insert a master key first and then press things in a certain sequence which allows you do to the same.
They do see a lot of abuse....dropped, kicked, stepped and sat on. Its no wonder buttons wear and solder joints crack.
@@bobsoft I see them chewed up from lawnmowers and snowblowers more than you think LOL
Love the video mate keep it up.
Thanks a ton!👍
@@BuyitFixit really look forward to seeing your name pop up in my notifications
Thanks 👍Wondering if you're just up the road from me (well about 20 miles north).
@BuyitFixit possibly mate yeah
@@BuyitFixit possibly mate yeah
Looks like the owner of the Dacia has a parking problem. His front offside wheel looks absolutely ruined. Good video.
Thanks👍 😂😂😂😂😂
I noticed that as well. Good Lord.
😂😂😂😂
great video, what do you use for conformal remover?
Thanks 👍 I just try IPA and a toothbrush, if that doesn't work then I'd try acetone, or hot air.
I wasn't aware that you needed to lock Dacias
😂😂😂😂
Ink eraser pencil type, to clean a variety of contacts.
Thanks for the tip 👍
Personally i would have taken the saw blade off first. Your choice.
Yes, probably a good idea, although you wouldn't be able to test the braking function as there wouldn't have been enough inertia.
Are these 3 phase motors ?
Thanks again
Yes they are. 3 phase BLDC (BrushLess DC) motors
I did not want to see or hear ouch in this one. please remove the blade before starting work . I have caught my finger in circular saw and it hurts a lot and makes you sad. Well worked out fixes though. And a no lobing things on the desk like Dean the greaser Dougherty , but you are both great. thanks 👌
Thanks, yes perhaps I should have removed the blade. Luckily I've not been bitten by one of these so far...
Ha! I knew another Milwaukee was a comin.
😂😂😂😂
Why didn't you replace both switches while you had the key fob apart? It checked good on your meter but unless you replaced it earlier it would be prone to fail in the near future as well.
True, guess I didn't think of that at the time...
@@BuyitFixit Been there, done that
I have something for you to try and fix or shed some light on how do i contact you about this
You can drop me an email at the channels name at out look dot com
I absolutely love my Milwaukee tools . But the fact that they don’t make that part available is kinda of crappy . The only thing I can think is it’s a matter of they don’t want people using them for other purposes. Probably why they encase the part in resin . Texas Instruments is very strange about there tech . They have weird part numbers for their IC’s that are hard to cross reference with other things . They have been doing that since the beginning of their company. I work on pinball machines from the late seventies and even then they had strange company specific part numbers that are hard to cross reference to anything else .
Interesting, I've worked on a few pinball machines too back in the late 80s early 90s. I remember Hook, Partyzone and Terminator were a few that I worked on.
I figure you just had a bad battery connection with the case off so you lost power. Freewheeled instead of braking.
That's what I was thinking, but if it was a bad connection why did it power back up when pressing the trigger again?
I would get some tweezer probes for your meter thank me later.
The same Circular Saw body in Germany costs about 290€, these are 250 Pounds. This is about 60 Pounds more expensive in Germany compare it with the UK price Wow!
Interesting. Thank you for sharing 👍
Are you allowed to bring Repaircafé stuff home?
I also volunteer at a couple of local repair cafés and yes, you can take stuff home to work on. The customer has to sign a form to say it's ok. Sometimes I need to dive deeper and it'll be quicker and easier with my set-up at home rather than the few tools/spares I took - I don't usually take a hot air station with me for example, but 90% of the time my basic travel kit is enough.
Yes, sometimes it's easier to do things at home as we have more equipment. One of the items I've to look at is a Canon DSLR which got dropped into a stream and was left in a cupboard for around a year or so. I wouldn't even try to tackle something like that on the day.
Well done. Please don't chew your meter probes (PVC isn't good for you).
Thanks Ralph 👍😂😂😂
Why weren't we born with 3 arms 💪💪💪lol
😂😂😂😂
My god... this dude managed to pronounce Dacia corectly
I googled it first 😂😂😂I'm normally useless with stuff like that 🙂
17:18 Instead of cotton buds, I prefer to stick a toothpick in my Dremel and rub that against the dirty contact.
Good Idea, I remembered I've got a small polishing tip for my little grinding pen that I use, but a toothpick should do the same 👍
Most Key FOBS are very expensive!
Yes, definitely another rip off.
Yes, it too looked back at the video and noticed that. It still made good viewing 😂😂
Absolutely. Thanks for the video!
250 quid, worth more than the car
😂😂😂😂
You also need another pair of hands. Like we all do LOL
Yes 😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit Spring hook probes for wires, through hole legs. Insulated croc clips for bigger things and chassis (0 V). Back probes for pushing down the back of tiny multi pin plastic enclosed connectors or indeed into the front. All with shrouded 4 mm connectors to your test leads.
@@alansort I'll have to get some tips from you at the next Repair Cafe 😉
Dacia - French car, but worse
I own a 2016 Duster, that got the horrible roof rails. The person that designed this turd doesn't live where they get snow in the winter.
Never owned one myself, we had a Renault once for a short time (never again!)😂😂😂
Just go to a scrap yard it will be cheaper
Then you have the issue of trying to program the car to accept the new key. I know some cars such as the older Toyota have a sequence of pressing the brake, and and accelerator a number of times while inserting keys to do this, otherwise you need to use special software as far as I know.
If you use a Brown paper bag or a pencil eraser is good to polish contacts but the right tool is called a burnishing tool take it from a Old IT/electronics guy.
Thanks for that 👍
The "life" of a button. Thanks.
😂😂😂👍