Many times if the wire integrity is compromised you will get a reading but it will not be able to handle the load. The bulb/load test is an excellent tool. Great job
When you measured the resistance of that fuse, it read fairly high for a fuse, 3.5Ohms, or something like that. The resistance of the motor windings was 0.3Ohm-resistance of your meter leads, so at least 10x lower than the resistance of the fuse, so all the volatge would have dropped over the fuse, but you got it. Interesting fault, have never seen a fuse fail like that before. I like your methodology of fault finding, unlike so many other youtubers that just measure for shorts and then look with a thermal camera with no oscilloscope even in sight… great repair videos.👍👍👍
Thanks, those fuses are weird. I just recently repaired an AVerMedia video capture card, which had two fuses which were almost the same as these and both measured 4 ohms so 🤷♂️
Another youtuber Southmain auto who is an automotive mechanic in a salty environment has tons of electrical problems and he’s always warning people not to trust a fuse just because it has continuity. So I’ve heard of this but never actually seen it happen. Great video btw!
Thanks 👍yes I could see it happening with things like an automotive fuse in a holder, especially on a boat for example. This is the first time I've came across something like it on a soldered PCB.
Spent a couple of hours working on a faulty 3 phase motor. The HRC fuse 'beeped' on continuity due to arc splatter produced when it ruptured but, understandably, would pass no current! Happy days.
@@BuyitFixit My personal experience says PTC fuses fail like that when aging or when frequently being stressed by sharp overcurrent spikes or high temperature.I see it in laptops where after some years, high power devices like self-powered external harddrives would stop working. Seeing this problem in a power tool is a new one to me, though. I might be wrong but i think the small size isn't helping with the problem either. If you can find a much larger one with the proper 30A rating, i'd like to see how that works out. Good job, keep it going!
Yes, I had a look at one of the previous models a while back and it was pretty much that. (Although it did have a small board for stopping it operating if the battery was too low).
@@NicksStuff more to go wrong ,a brilliant bit of marketing to ensure you have to buy another one in a set time . My fridge has 3 parts ,compressor ,thermostat and a strange little potted box. My freezer has the same BUT it has a shedload of components on a pcb .My fridge has been working fine since 1957 my freezer broke down twice since we bought it in january . "Stuff" inside isnt good its marketing ! We threw my mums hoover away lin 2001 it was fine but we had one it was working since the 1930's i have lost count of the dead ones we have replaced since 2001 ,All modern techyfied stuff does is give more things to fail on . If it works why change it sometimes modern isnt best
I really enjoyed this one, especially using the oscilloscope and lamp to demonstrate the firing of the Mosfet gates to drive the load. This really does demonstrate how unreliable voltage only checks can be, as the fault only showed when current was being supplied to a load.
Good find as always Mick. In the automotive world load testing is key. I very rarely use a multi meter. Always a test light with a bulb in it, or if it’s a higher powered circuit even a 40-50watt bulb. This is normally down to bad connections in multi plugs or rotten wires but I wouldn’t never of thought about using the load test method in a circuit board. Well done again 👍🏻
That sux! 😂 I was super surprised at the beginning that it actually had a BLDC motor and controller. Surprised again going back to the fuse. That low ohms reading was a killer because it allowed the control circuit power with no load and not nearly enough through to power the motor load. It doesn't look like a PTC though, must just be a bad batch of those SMD fuses. I would have put the same fuse in as a replacement and in almost the same exact way. Nice fix. I do bet many of these will have that same fault for sure. Happy New Year!
😂😂😂Yes I think it's a bad batch or just a poor quality component. I too suspect there will be many of these that have the same fault too! Thanks 👍and Happy New Year to you too!
My bets are that it's a production line goof-up. Someone loaded the wrong tape - probably saw the words 'fuse' and '30' not realizing they were 3amp resetable fuses not 30 amp fuses. Likely to have passed initial low load testing. Probably only a few dozen made like this before quality control noticed.
As your first experience with that issue you found it fairly well, nice. It is common with ac motors I learned to always test fuses under load for a full test. Nice job, remember something might have caused it to go though so watch for that.
Thanks, I think it could be a faulty batch as the guy I got it off had a few and one that would work for around 5 minutes before stopping (which was also caused by the fuse). Strangely enough I recently looked at an AVerMedia video capture device (video on here) and it's fuses were similar and also measured around 4 ohms.
I really love seeing your testing logic in your videos. Never seen a partially failed fuse before. I learn something from every one of your videos. Thank you so much for sharing all these fixes.
You sir, have just answered all my issues! I've tried to repair the original circuit board to no avail. Bought a brand new board and had the same problem. Bought a new motor and no luck. Found out both the 30ah fuses on both boards are damaged.
Good job on this! It stumped me a bit as you went through. When you measured the resistance on the positive I thought it was really weird negative had nothing but positive had 2.5ohms. So I was thinking a bad connection. I certainly have never seen a fuse "half" fail like this before. Such a strange failure.
Great trouble shooting, and wouldn't you know it would be the closest thing to the power input..even though you checked that fuse... Great repair, well done. Thanks for the video.
When you looked at the fuse at 6:40 you can see it's faulty, the brown stuff on the left side. I've seen that a few times. Sometimes there is a streak of black on the pcb next to them. But I suspect the conformal coating contained the blast a bit.
Thanks Peter, Yes I never noticed that little black mark next to it when I was looking at it. I would have probably just put it down to a bit of dirt or something. I'll have to pay more attention next time, although I didn't suspect it with getting 20v on each side of it.
Thanks Vince 👍I was wondering how you've been as you didn't put a video up last week. I did a little search and saw on your patreon page that you had been editing an Ebay returns video. I've spent a lot of time editing my video for this week too!(probably 3 days). It was a nightmare this one 😂😂😂 Great to hear from you 👍🙂
@@BuyitFixit It is the longest I have gone without uploading in a long time. I bit off more than I can chew on this job lot, still it is done now (2hrs 23mins!) so I don't think too many eyes will be on it. At least I can move on and hopefully continue as normal. I hope those lovely 2 lambs are still doing well. Enjoy the weekend 😎
Thanks mate, yes it ended up being 3 we are bottle feeding now. 2h 30! That's a long video! Look forward to seeing it! I don't know about you but my views seem to have gone down a fair bit since a couple months back. Not sure if it's seasonal thing? As I noticed some other channels had far less views than normal too 🤷♂️
@@BuyitFixit 3!!! You've had a busy Christmas then. My views have been pretty steady. I'm always on the slow decline overall year on year, but for me that has to be expected. Maybe you had some viral (as viral as fixing vids can be) videos that boosted new subs looking at your existing library of videos pushing up the overall views, and now it has dropped back to a more realistic sustainable level. Maybe over a longer period the views graph might look more favourable than over a shorter time frame. I think it looks like your channel is growing very nicely and deservingly so. Keep it up Mick, I think your UA-cam future will be a very rosy one for sure!
You Sir, are a legend! Side note: a 25A blade fuse probably won't trip until about 40A goes through it... 25A is the continuous current it will take without blowing. :)
I do pretty well if I have a schematic, but I am learning from each of your videos how to troubleshoot without one! Your logical approach and sourcing of parts is very informative. Thank you!
Working with vehicle chargers for the past 15 years I've come across fuses partially blown probably five times. It can be very frustrating to get to the bottom of it and the fuses I work with are generally quite large. Great video but it really points out how complicated Milwaukee have made their equipment.
It's the same with things like Dyson fans, and other power tools that have gone to brushless motors. This is due to being able to get more power / torque / performance than traditional brushed motors of the same size.
Back in the 70s an indicator fuse, with the pop out , normally stunted with a main five of higher value, was used as a main fuse. Over time the fuse resistance increased, dropping the voltage until failure. This repeated over and over. I still remember the pop out indicator was green. 😀😀
Pesky fuses 😂😂I actually came across these again on a couple of videos after this one on the AVerMedia video capture card I looked at, they measured 4 ohms too and were absolutely fine 🤷♂️
I've had similar problems in cars. Fuse cracked and allows voltage but no current. Similarly, the wire can corrode so that only a few pins are connected. That's why you should always measure the voltage under load.
Good find! I had all my bets on the switch. I've seen it many times that a corroded switch makes a brief contact while switching but is not latching on permanently. Would have never thought about a fuse failing only under load.
I have had that happen, but with a standard wire mains fuse in a TV, it measured fine out of circuit but was open circuit when power was applied to the set. I thought that I was going crazy until I substituted the fuse.
when the one we have in the company fails, I now know where to check first. it is a great wet vacuum for servicing washing machines and dishwashers, when they can not pump water out, and are in a kitchen, where you can not just let it drain out on the floor
Nice👍 I'm not a fan of using these wet. I've got the older model and the motor was all seized I guess from moisture being left in the bottom and the vapour corroding the motor bearings. So that would be something I'd potentially keep an eye on.
Great fix sir, Well, I have one that from the first use I switched it on but it didn’t work, I did switch it off and on again then it worked, just like you said it is a common problem in these vacuums, and it is only a matter of time before mine gets defective.
Damn, I'd have never solved that puzzle in 100 years! what were you doing before all these? you should have been a detective, haha. Excellent video as always.
I've had weirdness with glass fuses in the past. They would test just fine, but under load the heat in the fuse wire must have made it bend away from the end cap just enough to disconnect it.
Yes, I could see that happening especially with the metal contacts oxidizing over time, but I've never came across it before in a soldered in fuse on a PCB.
@36'20" you are spot on. It's a resettable fuse. Bizarre effect. Looks like they accidently used a PTC fuse in the production line with '30' marking instead of a normal 30amp SMT fuse. Easy to do and sadly might get through initial quality control as these resettable fuses can cope with a few dozen overload cycles before failing progressively in this way. "30" probably indicates 3 Amp nominal. These resettable fuses hang on during over load and can often cope with momentary 40 amp spikes. Milwaukee quality control probably would have caught it if they had done a prolonged 'filter clogged' test. Had a similar fault in a battery operated toy train. Much easier to diagnose as the train motor operated normally until a load was put on it. I imagine that your vacuum initially worked ok then started failing under high load, progressively degrading to the point you got it Interestingly, in my case, resoldering the ends of the PTC fuse partially restored it's ability to work (short term). Probably only affects a few dozen units in that production run. I wonder if the units did actually fail quality control, were rejected and because they sort-of worked someone snuck them out of the factory and sold them. Makes you understand why manufacturers who value their reputation crush their rejects. For some good info search for "Eaton-Ptc-Resettable-Fuse-Application-Guidelines"
Thank you, and thanks also for the long a nd detailed comment. Interestingly the another unit that Scott had was a slightly different fault but the same root cause. That unit would run for so long until cutting out which progressively got worse over time. Thanks again for your thoughts and comment 👍
@@BuyitFixit if you’re interested I have an inventor dehumidifier which sort of works but the control board is faulty. works sometimes but often not. got it on ebay with a mind to fixing it but not had any luck yet
Fuse did look to be damaged, so was a good find. The soldering looks to be pretty poor, but that may be just the way the camera shows it - at 6:42 both through hole joints look to be ready to fail (if not quite failed yet!) & similarly with another two through hole joints at 6:51.
Thanks 👍Yes looking back at the video there does look to be a couple of joints that don't look the best. Sometimes the microscope light shows shadows that look like dry joints also. The one at 6:51 is just a ground wire that goes over to the motor for static or interference or whatever. It just connects to a piece of metal near the motor shaft.
I had a similar ish problem with a DC shunt motor driver in an industrial machine. Everything had voltage, but would not run. In the end I discovered the 20mm fuse holder had failed, it looked ok, but must have had a small internal crack. Replaced it, and everything worked happily.
Thanks for sharing 👍I had something like that with a farmers bale wrapper a couple months ago. He had checked the fuses were ok, but when I tested across the fuse holders on the board one was OC. It wasn't making contact with the fuse internally. It took me a little while to find that one too as the machine was doing all kinds of weird things (two things operating at once, and moving in the opposite direction) due to voltages feeding back through other valves because of the supply not going through this one fuse.
Great fix - pretty sure you'll get the flash memory working as well. It was probably just corrupted by someone loading the manual on to it but without being able to see an image it's hard to reformat it. They should have included an hdmi chip and error trapping.
Yet another cracking video, tenacity wins the day, would have thought this type fault would be a rare thing, but going by the comments maybe not. Keep the vids coming, best channel on YT.
Had this happen with bad quality MCBs, the voltage tester screwdriver would light up bright on the phase side but very dimly on the load side. This is also why a Fluke 117 with it's low impedance mode is my main multimeter. It's resolution isn't great but the accuracy makes up for it. When it says 0.001A, it's totally a milliamp flowing there. No more, no less. Confirmed many many times at work, with plenty of 4-20mA sensors.
There's a PTC fuse in the Braun Oral B Genius electric toothbrushes that is notorious for doing the same thing. Runs for a couple of seconds and goes high resistance. First one I got replaced under the manufacturer warranty, the replacement unit after a few months developed the exact same fault and opened it up and replaced the PTC fuse with a different brand equivalent and its been perfect ever since
I think on some the bottom comes off, I did have a problem with a charger on one but that was pretty much impossible to repair as it was all potted with hard resin.
I just repaired my pack out vacuum last week! pcb got wet and destroyed that little input fuse and its pads/traces. I was able to solder in a bypass across the fuse pads and then just added a 30amp ato blade fuse on the input wire
I once had a filament fuse on an amplifier that had continuity until power went through it when it kind of half disconnected causing all sorts of noise. Found it eventually by tapping the board and noticing the noise change.
Weirdly I just bought one of these new, I noticed the 3 ohm resistance from power in to the mosfets compared to .3 gnd to mosfets likely from the fuse, shame we didn't get to see if the fuse got hot briefly as the resistance went up... Scott we need another broken one for a follow up lol
Way to hang in there and sort it out. It's an unusual situation for sure, but partial failures happen and can defy expectations. Success means a quick tidying of the workbench too FTW!
Thanks 👍Yes I had a partial failure with a diode on the my Aixun soldering station a few videos back. I think the bond wires inside had failed and when I re-soldered it the thermal expansion caused the wires to connect again (for about 3 weeks before it failed again, and I ended up replacing the diode). It's been fine since 🙂
@@BuyitFixit Yikes, I recently added that soldering station to my workbench and love it. I hope your component failure on the Aixun was a random fluke, but I'll consider it in my troubleshooting from now on. Mercifully, I have yet to encounter such a situation, but I'll trust my instruments and my noggin as you have demonstrated. I love the varying array of devices you bring back to life and your ability to voice what you think as you progress. Yours has quickly become one of my favorite channels. Thank you so much for your time.
Hi Mick happy new year, great fix as always 😊 that was a real head scratcher I have never heard of the fuse doing that but I have with diodes and MLC capacitors do it, measured ok then fail when used, I know it’s not the same but shows these things happen. Regards G.
I have a plasma table wich has a big ring transformer in it It is from usa so it is 2 x 110 volt rewired for 230 volt It has 2 auto reset fuses inside like yours but they only reset 3 or 4 times I cut them out and replaced them with automotive fuses and never had any problems with it Best wishes from Holland
Great! I would have never thought of that. It could be interesting to check the tesistance value under load...I bet the range woul be greatet than 100 Ohm. Regards from Italy .
Thanks 👍the lambs are doing great, and +1 since the post. We now have 3 we're bottle feeding as another ewe had one but she had mastitis and wouldn't let him feed. We also have another, but that one is still with it's mum. 4 total. 2 girls and 2 boys🐑🐑🐑🍼🍼🍼😂😂😂
I've never tried sheep milk. It makes good cheese apparently. The wife got them to sit under the tree like that. I think she did a good job. The photo came out well 👍
Worst fuse problem I had was in my Youth I bought an old Landy off a farmer. One day the side lights went out. I checked the fuse box to find the fuse had blown, of course there is normally a problem that causes it to blow and I found some faulty wiring. What was quite entertaining though was a couple of the other fuses had been replaced by .22 rimfire rounds. Good job I had a Firearms licence.
@@BuyitFixit Of course they were live, wouldn't have been any fun if they weren't 🙂as soon as I found them I sorted them out PDQ though, Might be an interesting experiment to find out how much heat it needs to detonate one, NOPE !
I had an issue with my m18 string trimmer that was simillar to this. I bet it was the same problem. I ended up sending it back for warranty and they replaced the board.
The only time i had a similar problem was with an older glass fuse It was a spring type Anti Surge fuse where the spring was in series with the fuse wire. The spring was somehow making the fuse a high resistance without enough current flowing to actually blow the fuse. Very bizarre symptoms in the electronics.
I've had similar problems with auto reset and push button reset fuses degrading and tripping too quickly or partially failing and causing the same problem you have.
Seems to me that surface mount components are a step backwards in terms of reliability. I've seen more than a fair share of shorted SMD caps and now fuses making an appearance. That was a very good find. A fuse acting like a poly switch!
My bets are that it's a production line goof-up. Someone loaded the wrong tape - probably saw the words 'fuse' and '30' not realizing they were 3amp resetable fuses not 30 amp fuses. Likely to have passed initial low load testing. Probably only a few dozen made like this before quality control noticed.
@@BuyitFixit well the cutoff is on the tool side for milwaukee but in the case of a failed cap youd see similar symptoms from overcurrent protection shutting off due to a shorted power rail
I had the same issue with a walk behind floor scrubber. The main switch dropped the voltage and the voltage protector shut it down. Took me 3weeks to find the problem with a multimeter. An incandescent light bulb would solve it instantly
Many times if the wire integrity is compromised you will get a reading but it will not be able to handle the load. The bulb/load test is an excellent tool. Great job
Thank you 👍
When you measured the resistance of that fuse, it read fairly high for a fuse, 3.5Ohms, or something like that. The resistance of the motor windings was 0.3Ohm-resistance of your meter leads, so at least 10x lower than the resistance of the fuse, so all the volatge would have dropped over the fuse, but you got it. Interesting fault, have never seen a fuse fail like that before. I like your methodology of fault finding, unlike so many other youtubers that just measure for shorts and then look with a thermal camera with no oscilloscope even in sight… great repair videos.👍👍👍
Thanks, those fuses are weird. I just recently repaired an AVerMedia video capture card, which had two fuses which were almost the same as these and both measured 4 ohms so 🤷♂️
I think I would have gotten pissed-off at this one, and chucked it in the bin. Congratulations for your perseverance.
Thanks, oh I was nearly there. I'm not sure if anyone noticed the time on the oscilloscope 😂😂😂Although it was 1hr forward from the correct time.
Another youtuber Southmain auto who is an automotive mechanic in a salty environment has tons of electrical problems and he’s always warning people not to trust a fuse just because it has continuity. So I’ve heard of this but never actually seen it happen. Great video btw!
Thanks 👍yes I could see it happening with things like an automotive fuse in a holder, especially on a boat for example. This is the first time I've came across something like it on a soldered PCB.
That is very strange! I have never seen that before, either. Thanks for showing that to us, Mick.
You're welcome Mikey 👍
Spent a couple of hours working on a faulty 3 phase motor. The HRC fuse 'beeped' on continuity due to arc splatter produced when it ruptured but, understandably, would pass no current! Happy days.
Nice 👍
I wonder if Milwaukee likes the brand name drop every other video or dislikes the fact you're showing their all products as defective? LOL
Fixing the working ones isn't as interesting. 😀
Or look at the other side... he considers it worth fixing... 😉
😂😂😂
I've no idea 😂😂😂 I wasn't planning on doing one of these, it's just what Scott sent me 🙂
It’s one of the few brands worth fixing
This for sure is one of the most bizarre faults I've come across. Thanks for showing.
Thanks 👍Yes, I think it was the first time I've came across a fuse that was blown but not open circuit!
@@BuyitFixit My personal experience says PTC fuses fail like that when aging or when frequently being stressed by sharp overcurrent spikes or high temperature.I see it in laptops where after some years, high power devices like self-powered external harddrives would stop working. Seeing this problem in a power tool is a new one to me, though. I might be wrong but i think the small size isn't helping with the problem either. If you can find a much larger one with the proper 30A rating, i'd like to see how that works out.
Good job, keep it going!
A fuse thats only partially blown. Very bizarre fault. A good find !
Thanks 👍Yes it was the first time I've encountered such a fault. Bizarre indeed!
Crazy! its a simple vacuum 5 years ago the only thing inside would be a switch and the motor
Yes, I had a look at one of the previous models a while back and it was pretty much that. (Although it did have a small board for stopping it operating if the battery was too low).
That's the difference between brushed and brushless, you need a lot of components to make the latter work.
@@NicksStuff more to go wrong ,a brilliant bit of marketing to ensure you have to buy another one in a set time . My fridge has 3 parts ,compressor ,thermostat and a strange little potted box. My freezer has the same BUT it has a shedload of components on a pcb .My fridge has been working fine since 1957 my freezer broke down twice since we bought it in january . "Stuff" inside isnt good its marketing ! We threw my mums hoover away lin 2001 it was fine but we had one it was working since the 1930's i have lost count of the dead ones we have replaced since 2001 ,All modern techyfied stuff does is give more things to fail on . If it works why change it sometimes modern isnt best
I really enjoyed this one, especially using the oscilloscope and lamp to demonstrate the firing of the Mosfet gates to drive the load. This really does demonstrate how unreliable voltage only checks can be, as the fault only showed when current was being supplied to a load.
Yes, voltage checks is the first step. Car mechanics dealing with electronics ALWAYS confirm that test with a lightbulb...
Thanks 👍🙂
Good find as always Mick. In the automotive world load testing is key. I very rarely use a multi meter. Always a test light with a bulb in it, or if it’s a higher powered circuit even a 40-50watt bulb. This is normally down to bad connections in multi plugs or rotten wires but I wouldn’t never of thought about using the load test method in a circuit board. Well done again 👍🏻
Thanks 👍
Love these videos. Hoovering up the fuse at the end was a nice touch lol 👍
Thanks 👍😂😂😂😂
Something satisfying about getting that vacuum to suck up it's own faulty fuse lol
Yes indeed! 😂😂😂😂👍
Unbelievable that you have managed to fix this , you’re a real hero tech buddy , I very much enjoy your videos .
Thanks 👍
That sux! 😂
I was super surprised at the beginning that it actually had a BLDC motor and controller. Surprised again going back to the fuse. That low ohms reading was a killer because it allowed the control circuit power with no load and not nearly enough through to power the motor load. It doesn't look like a PTC though, must just be a bad batch of those SMD fuses. I would have put the same fuse in as a replacement and in almost the same exact way. Nice fix. I do bet many of these will have that same fault for sure.
Happy New Year!
😂😂😂Yes I think it's a bad batch or just a poor quality component. I too suspect there will be many of these that have the same fault too! Thanks 👍and Happy New Year to you too!
My bets are that it's a production line goof-up. Someone loaded the wrong tape - probably saw the words 'fuse' and '30' not realizing they were 3amp resetable fuses not 30 amp fuses. Likely to have passed initial low load testing. Probably only a few dozen made like this before quality control noticed.
I'll third this as an auto tech - I like to see a load being used to confirm the circuit - and not just a meter reading. Really enjoyed this.
Thanks 👍and thanks for sharing 🙂
@3:32 - "...so why is it not working?" -
"Its Broke." signed, Joe's Classic Video Games
😂😂😂😂😂
As your first experience with that issue you found it fairly well, nice. It is common with ac motors I learned to always test fuses under load for a full test. Nice job, remember something might have caused it to go though so watch for that.
Thanks, I think it could be a faulty batch as the guy I got it off had a few and one that would work for around 5 minutes before stopping (which was also caused by the fuse). Strangely enough I recently looked at an AVerMedia video capture device (video on here) and it's fuses were similar and also measured around 4 ohms.
Thank you for posting. Another thing for me to check when doing repairs.
Yes, unusual fault this one (but it seems common on this model!)
I really love seeing your testing logic in your videos. Never seen a partially failed fuse before. I learn something from every one of your videos. Thank you so much for sharing all these fixes.
Thanks 👍Yes this one threw me a bit, and you're very welcome 🙂
You have great knowledge and this fault finding was very good 👍
Thanks 👍
You never give up even if it is a bizarre fault, it makes for interesting viewing - as all your videos do.
Thanks so much 👍Really appreciated 🙂
You sir, have just answered all my issues! I've tried to repair the original circuit board to no avail. Bought a brand new board and had the same problem. Bought a new motor and no luck. Found out both the 30ah fuses on both boards are damaged.
You're welcome. It had me puzzled for bit but I'm glad I'm not the only one! Really glad it has been useful to you 👍
Good job on this! It stumped me a bit as you went through. When you measured the resistance on the positive I thought it was really weird negative had nothing but positive had 2.5ohms. So I was thinking a bad connection. I certainly have never seen a fuse "half" fail like this before. Such a strange failure.
@@braixeninfection6312 Thanks 👍yes first time I've came across that too!
Great trouble shooting, and wouldn't you know it would be the closest thing to the power input..even though you checked that fuse... Great repair, well done. Thanks for the video.
Thanks 👍
Today I learned a lot! Thanks, Mick! 👍👍👍
Cheers 👍🙂
hey bud what a intresting fault, well done on finding it
Thanks 👍yes I thought this was an interesting one too🙂
Wasn't expecting that
Neither was I 😂😂😂
When you looked at the fuse at 6:40 you can see it's faulty, the brown stuff on the left side. I've seen that a few times. Sometimes there is a streak of black on the pcb next to them. But I suspect the conformal coating contained the blast a bit.
Thanks Peter, Yes I never noticed that little black mark next to it when I was looking at it. I would have probably just put it down to a bit of dirt or something. I'll have to pay more attention next time, although I didn't suspect it with getting 20v on each side of it.
@@BuyitFixit I did wonder about the voltage both sides, and I guess it could be conductive residue inside the fuse.
Really interesting one, great work finding that Mick, one to remember for sure!
Thanks Vince 👍I was wondering how you've been as you didn't put a video up last week. I did a little search and saw on your patreon page that you had been editing an Ebay returns video. I've spent a lot of time editing my video for this week too!(probably 3 days). It was a nightmare this one 😂😂😂 Great to hear from you 👍🙂
@@BuyitFixit It is the longest I have gone without uploading in a long time. I bit off more than I can chew on this job lot, still it is done now (2hrs 23mins!) so I don't think too many eyes will be on it. At least I can move on and hopefully continue as normal.
I hope those lovely 2 lambs are still doing well. Enjoy the weekend 😎
Thanks mate, yes it ended up being 3 we are bottle feeding now. 2h 30! That's a long video! Look forward to seeing it! I don't know about you but my views seem to have gone down a fair bit since a couple months back. Not sure if it's seasonal thing? As I noticed some other channels had far less views than normal too 🤷♂️
@@BuyitFixit 3!!! You've had a busy Christmas then.
My views have been pretty steady. I'm always on the slow decline overall year on year, but for me that has to be expected. Maybe you had some viral (as viral as fixing vids can be) videos that boosted new subs looking at your existing library of videos pushing up the overall views, and now it has dropped back to a more realistic sustainable level. Maybe over a longer period the views graph might look more favourable than over a shorter time frame. I think it looks like your channel is growing very nicely and deservingly so. Keep it up Mick, I think your UA-cam future will be a very rosy one for sure!
@@Mymatevince Thanks Vince 👍
You Sir, are a legend! Side note: a 25A blade fuse probably won't trip until about 40A goes through it... 25A is the continuous current it will take without blowing. :)
Thanks 👍and thanks for the info 🙂
I do pretty well if I have a schematic, but I am learning from each of your videos how to troubleshoot without one! Your logical approach and sourcing of parts is very informative. Thank you!
Great to hear 👍glad you are finding them useful 🙂
Working with vehicle chargers for the past 15 years I've come across fuses partially blown probably five times. It can be very frustrating to get to the bottom of it and the fuses I work with are generally quite large. Great video but it really points out how complicated Milwaukee have made their equipment.
It's the same with things like Dyson fans, and other power tools that have gone to brushless motors. This is due to being able to get more power / torque / performance than traditional brushed motors of the same size.
Nice fix! Would be interesting to measure the resistance of that fuse under load.
Thanks 👍Yes, but unfortunately I damaged it while removing it.
Back in the 70s an indicator fuse, with the pop out , normally stunted with a main five of higher value, was used as a main fuse. Over time the fuse resistance increased, dropping the voltage until failure. This repeated over and over. I still remember the pop out indicator was green. 😀😀
Pesky fuses 😂😂I actually came across these again on a couple of videos after this one on the AVerMedia video capture card I looked at, they measured 4 ohms too and were absolutely fine 🤷♂️
I wonder if these fuses have a brand name on them.
I'm not sure, I used Google lens to try and find the same fuse.
long ago, a glass fuse in B&O pente speakers, measuring with the mmv, al normal, under power it acted as an 75 Ohm resistor!
Weird, well at least I'm not the only one to have a strange problem like this. Thanks for sharing 👍
Great video, SMD fuses 😨, thanks Mick 😀
Thanks Mike 👍
I've had similar problems in cars. Fuse cracked and allows voltage but no current. Similarly, the wire can corrode so that only a few pins are connected. That's why you should always measure the voltage under load.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Good find! I had all my bets on the switch. I've seen it many times that a corroded switch makes a brief contact while switching but is not latching on permanently. Would have never thought about a fuse failing only under load.
Thanks, yes it was pretty much a head scratcher for me too! And it seems like it could be a fairly common problem with this model.
Excellent troubleshooting!!
Thanks 👍
Those are always the most difficult problems to identify and resolve. Nice job & good video
Thanks 👍
That is a first for me. Good troubleshooting moment there.👍👍
Thanks 👍 yes it's a first for me too!
39:16 Spiolt the "will it work " top fix tho 👍👍
Cheers 👍😂
I have had that happen, but with a standard wire mains fuse in a TV, it measured fine out of circuit but was open circuit when power was applied to the set. I thought that I was going crazy until I substituted the fuse.
Thanks for sharing 👍
when the one we have in the company fails, I now know where to check first. it is a great wet vacuum for servicing washing machines and dishwashers, when they can not pump water out, and are in a kitchen, where you can not just let it drain out on the floor
Nice👍 I'm not a fan of using these wet. I've got the older model and the motor was all seized I guess from moisture being left in the bottom and the vapour corroding the motor bearings. So that would be something I'd potentially keep an eye on.
Cracking fix, loved the scope work, much more informative, thanks, looking forward to the next vid 😊👍👍
Thanks mate 👍🙂
Great fix sir, Well, I have one that from the first use I switched it on but it didn’t work, I did switch it off and on again then it worked, just like you said it is a common problem in these vacuums, and it is only a matter of time before mine gets defective.
Thanks 👍🙂Yes I think there will be more like this. I think that fuse isn't up to the job.
Great fault finding and fix too..
Thank you 👍
Brilliant diagnosis.
Thank you 👍
Damn, I'd have never solved that puzzle in 100 years! what were you doing before all these? you should have been a detective, haha. Excellent video as always.
😂😂😂😂Thanks 👍
I've seen a bad fuse holder for that. But very well done for picking that one!
I've had weirdness with glass fuses in the past. They would test just fine, but under load the heat in the fuse wire must have made it bend away from the end cap just enough to disconnect it.
Glad I'm not the only one then. Thanks for sharing 👍
@@BuyitFixit Fuse holders have also been very problematic for me in the past. I routinely just replace them in olde equipment.
Yes, I could see that happening especially with the metal contacts oxidizing over time, but I've never came across it before in a soldered in fuse on a PCB.
Great job. For a sand dancer.
😂😂😂😂😂👍
@36'20" you are spot on. It's a resettable fuse. Bizarre effect.
Looks like they accidently used a PTC fuse in the production line with '30' marking instead of a normal 30amp SMT fuse.
Easy to do and sadly might get through initial quality control as these resettable fuses can cope with a few dozen overload cycles before failing progressively in this way.
"30" probably indicates 3 Amp nominal. These resettable fuses hang on during over load and can often cope with momentary 40 amp spikes.
Milwaukee quality control probably would have caught it if they had done a prolonged 'filter clogged' test.
Had a similar fault in a battery operated toy train. Much easier to diagnose as the train motor operated normally until a load was put on it.
I imagine that your vacuum initially worked ok then started failing under high load, progressively degrading to the point you got it
Interestingly, in my case, resoldering the ends of the PTC fuse partially restored it's ability to work (short term).
Probably only affects a few dozen units in that production run.
I wonder if the units did actually fail quality control, were rejected and because they sort-of worked someone snuck them out of the factory and sold them.
Makes you understand why manufacturers who value their reputation crush their rejects.
For some good info search for "Eaton-Ptc-Resettable-Fuse-Application-Guidelines"
Thank you, and thanks also for the long a nd detailed comment. Interestingly the another unit that Scott had was a slightly different fault but the same root cause. That unit would run for so long until cutting out which progressively got worse over time. Thanks again for your thoughts and comment 👍
@@BuyitFixit Yep, that other unit was at the early stage of poly fuse failure.
is there a vacuum running around with a 25A car fuse now? 😅
@@prometheus4130 Of course. Better than factory 😂😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit if you’re interested I have an inventor dehumidifier which sort of works but the control board is faulty. works sometimes but often not. got it on ebay with a mind to fixing it but not had any luck yet
Fuse did look to be damaged, so was a good find. The soldering looks to be pretty poor, but that may be just the way the camera shows it - at 6:42 both through hole joints look to be ready to fail (if not quite failed yet!) & similarly with another two through hole joints at 6:51.
Thanks 👍Yes looking back at the video there does look to be a couple of joints that don't look the best. Sometimes the microscope light shows shadows that look like dry joints also. The one at 6:51 is just a ground wire that goes over to the motor for static or interference or whatever. It just connects to a piece of metal near the motor shaft.
@@BuyitFixit 👍
In the end a suck and blow is OK in my book. Great Fix as always.
😂😂😂😂😂😂Thanks 👍
I had a similar ish problem with a DC shunt motor driver in an industrial machine. Everything had voltage, but would not run. In the end I discovered the 20mm fuse holder had failed, it looked ok, but must have had a small internal crack. Replaced it, and everything worked happily.
Thanks for sharing 👍I had something like that with a farmers bale wrapper a couple months ago. He had checked the fuses were ok, but when I tested across the fuse holders on the board one was OC. It wasn't making contact with the fuse internally. It took me a little while to find that one too as the machine was doing all kinds of weird things (two things operating at once, and moving in the opposite direction) due to voltages feeding back through other valves because of the supply not going through this one fuse.
Great fix - pretty sure you'll get the flash memory working as well. It was probably just corrupted by someone loading the manual on to it but without being able to see an image it's hard to reformat it. They should have included an hdmi chip and error trapping.
Hmm this comment possibly relates to the RGB laser? but it's on the Vacuum video..
different for sure. nice fix
Thanks 👍
Yet another cracking video, tenacity wins the day, would have thought this type fault would be a rare thing, but going by the comments maybe not. Keep the vids coming, best channel on YT.
Thanks 👍Glad you enjoyed it 🙂
Had this happen with bad quality MCBs, the voltage tester screwdriver would light up bright on the phase side but very dimly on the load side. This is also why a Fluke 117 with it's low impedance mode is my main multimeter. It's resolution isn't great but the accuracy makes up for it. When it says 0.001A, it's totally a milliamp flowing there. No more, no less. Confirmed many many times at work, with plenty of 4-20mA sensors.
Interesting, thanks for sharing Windshield 👍
There's a PTC fuse in the Braun Oral B Genius electric toothbrushes that is notorious for doing the same thing. Runs for a couple of seconds and goes high resistance. First one I got replaced under the manufacturer warranty, the replacement unit after a few months developed the exact same fault and opened it up and replaced the PTC fuse with a different brand equivalent and its been perfect ever since
I may be misremembering my toothbrush, but I would not have thought it would be practical to open (non destructively) and repair. Props!
Nice 👍I'm glad I'm not the only one who's experienced this problem 🙂Well done on fixing your toothbrush 👍
I think on some the bottom comes off, I did have a problem with a charger on one but that was pretty much impossible to repair as it was all potted with hard resin.
Great skills and content.
Thank you 👍🙂
What a great find this is, thans for sharing.
Thanks 👍
Had it happen quite a few times in vehicles, multi meter / led test light will give you a reading but a proper teat light won’t
Thanks for sharing 👍
Finding your videos very informative and enjoyable. Keep up the cracking work, 👍
Thanks 👍Much appreciated🙂
I had fuses like that on hot tubs circuitry usually slow blow 30 amps and smaller 10A
Thanks for letting me know 👍
I just repaired my pack out vacuum last week! pcb got wet and destroyed that little input fuse and its pads/traces. I was able to solder in a bypass across the fuse pads and then just added a 30amp ato blade fuse on the input wire
Nice, well done on repairing it👍
I once had a filament fuse on an amplifier that had continuity until power went through it when it kind of half disconnected causing all sorts of noise. Found it eventually by tapping the board and noticing the noise change.
Pesky fuses 😂😂Sounds like the wire may have been loose inside.
Weirdly I just bought one of these new, I noticed the 3 ohm resistance from power in to the mosfets compared to .3 gnd to mosfets likely from the fuse, shame we didn't get to see if the fuse got hot briefly as the resistance went up... Scott we need another broken one for a follow up lol
Yes I didn't think of that at the time. It would have probably showed on the thermal camera.
Way to hang in there and sort it out. It's an unusual situation for sure, but partial failures happen and can defy expectations. Success means a quick tidying of the workbench too FTW!
Thanks 👍Yes I had a partial failure with a diode on the my Aixun soldering station a few videos back. I think the bond wires inside had failed and when I re-soldered it the thermal expansion caused the wires to connect again (for about 3 weeks before it failed again, and I ended up replacing the diode). It's been fine since 🙂
@@BuyitFixit Yikes, I recently added that soldering station to my workbench and love it. I hope your component failure on the Aixun was a random fluke, but I'll consider it in my troubleshooting from now on. Mercifully, I have yet to encounter such a situation, but I'll trust my instruments and my noggin as you have demonstrated. I love the varying array of devices you bring back to life and your ability to voice what you think as you progress. Yours has quickly become one of my favorite channels. Thank you so much for your time.
Thanks Kenny, much appreciated 👍
Hi Mick happy new year, great fix as always 😊 that was a real head scratcher I have never heard of the fuse doing that but I have with diodes and MLC capacitors do it, measured ok then fail when used, I know it’s not the same but shows these things happen.
Regards G.
Thanks mate 👍Happy New Year to you too!
I have a plasma table wich has a big ring transformer in it
It is from usa so it is 2 x 110 volt rewired for 230 volt
It has 2 auto reset fuses inside like yours but they only reset 3 or 4 times
I cut them out and replaced them with automotive fuses and never had any problems with it
Best wishes from Holland
Nice 👍automotive fuses seem to come in handy 😂😂😂 Greetings from the UK 🙂
Great! I would have never thought of that. It could be interesting to check the tesistance value under load...I bet the range woul be greatet than 100 Ohm. Regards from Italy .
Thanks 👍Greetings from the UK 🙂
Props to them for those plastic mouldings though, those are pretty wild.
Well aye, never seen the like ! fuse half blown you just can't make this stuff up awesome catch !....cheers.
Cheers Andymouse 👍
Great video
Greetings from Portugal 🇵🇹
Thank you 👍Greetings from the UK 🙂
Great entertainment as always. Drop us a update on the lambs .
Taa👍
Thanks 👍the lambs are doing great, and +1 since the post. We now have 3 we're bottle feeding as another ewe had one but she had mastitis and wouldn't let him feed. We also have another, but that one is still with it's mum. 4 total. 2 girls and 2 boys🐑🐑🐑🍼🍼🍼😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit gotta ci maaah boot a daaag....(brown ale)
How do you get em under the tree. I want some of that milk..😆
👍💪
I've never tried sheep milk. It makes good cheese apparently. The wife got them to sit under the tree like that. I think she did a good job. The photo came out well 👍
I'm a mining mechanic and I have seen fuses and cbs both that did a weird half fail thing like this. But it's rare
Nice 👍Thanks for sharing 🙂
Worst fuse problem I had was in my Youth I bought an old Landy off a farmer. One day the side lights went out. I checked the fuse box to find the fuse had blown, of course there is normally a problem that causes it to blow and I found some faulty wiring. What was quite entertaining though was a couple of the other fuses had been replaced by .22 rimfire rounds. Good job I had a Firearms licence.
I hope they weren't live.. Imagine if you had a short and they heated up! 😂😂😂😂
Of course they were live. Gave me a bit of a twitch when I found them. Soon sorted it out :-:@@BuyitFixit
@@BuyitFixit Of course they were live, wouldn't have been any fun if they weren't 🙂as soon as I found them I sorted them out PDQ though, Might be an interesting experiment to find out how much heat it needs to detonate one, NOPE !
I was wondering which Chris you are in the DX commander discord. I haven't seen Nathan in there.
@@BuyitFixit can we direct message some way?
you are a genius !
Cheers 👍
I very very thank you I fixed my vacuum
Brilliant news, well done 👍🙂
Yup I have but a regular old school fuse. Ohm meter said good but wouldn't handle any current....makes ya pull your hair out.
Thanks for sharing 👍🙂
Great vid as usual 👍
Thanks 👍
I would never have found this one …!
Yes, I've never came across this before, at least it's a one to remember!
I had an issue with my m18 string trimmer that was simillar to this. I bet it was the same problem. I ended up sending it back for warranty and they replaced the board.
Could well be 👍
The only time i had a similar problem was with an older glass fuse It was a spring type Anti Surge fuse where the spring was in series with the fuse wire. The spring was somehow making the fuse a high resistance without enough current flowing to actually blow the fuse. Very bizarre symptoms in the electronics.
Yes I bet 👍
that is wild!
😂😂😂
I've had similar problems with auto reset and push button reset fuses degrading and tripping too quickly or partially failing and causing the same problem you have.
Interesting. Thanks for sharing 👍
Sneeky Devil... I love the way you found this. Great job. I need your help with a problem I have. Can you communicate with me some way ?
Thanks 👍Yes, I think I replied on your other message 👍
Yea - seen same thing with a resettable fuse, worked fine under meter test but failed under load. Took me bloody ages to suss it..
Thanks for sharing 👍I'm glad I'm not the only one who missed it then 😂
Seems to me that surface mount components are a step backwards in terms of reliability. I've seen more than a fair share of shorted SMD caps and now fuses making an appearance. That was a very good find. A fuse acting like a poly switch!
Agree, seems reliability and miniaturisation have an inverse correlation 😂😂👍
My bets are that it's a production line goof-up. Someone loaded the wrong tape - probably saw the words 'fuse' and '30' not realizing they were 3amp resetable fuses not 30 amp fuses. Likely to have passed initial low load testing. Probably only a few dozen made like this before quality control noticed.
When i saw power cut out right away i assumed some sort of short was triggering protection from the battery, interesting it ended up being the fuse.
Yes, I didn't suspect the fuse either as I got voltage on both sides of it. The batteries don't have output protection only charge protection.
@@BuyitFixit well the cutoff is on the tool side for milwaukee but in the case of a failed cap youd see similar symptoms from overcurrent protection shutting off due to a shorted power rail
I had the same issue with a walk behind floor scrubber. The main switch dropped the voltage and the voltage protector shut it down. Took me 3weeks to find the problem with a multimeter. An incandescent light bulb would solve it instantly
Yes 😂😂 cheap lightbulb vs £££ meter 😂😂😂👍
Something ironic about hoovering up the old fuse with the repaired vacuum!
Yes 😂😂😂😂😂👍
I have even seen glass fuses do that. Open when current goes through but closed on my meter.
Weird, I think it's the first time I've came across this.
Damn pesky fuses!! I had one in a car that tested good, but was bad.
Yes 😂😂Thanks for sharing 👍
This sucks! Again! 🙂Great find.
😂😂😂😂Thanks 👍
Good video, but audio on this one is a challenge when you're on the scope.
Thanks, I think it's the fan on the scope being picked up by the microphone.
Hahaha! A fitting punishment making it suck up its own defective fuse. A great repair and next time you see this fault you can jump right in!
Yes indeed 😂😂😂👍