Reassembling my Getrag 260 again WITH NEW TECHNIQUES
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- Опубліковано 18 жов 2022
- Beware, this is an hour long video.
Here are the parts/materials used in this video:
Input shaft seal 23121209311
Output shaft seal 23121205342
Shift shaft seal 23128677736
Input shaft bearing 23121224164
Output shaft bearing 23121224166
Front countershaft bearing 23121224076
Rear countershaft bearing 23121224077
Mopar Threebond RTV
Curil K2 (discontinued, use and anaerobic sealer such as permetex) - Авто та транспорт
Fantastic video as I'm sizing up possibly rebuilding or at least replacing bearings in my G 260. Thanks for taking the time, the clear shots, and good narration.
Hi thank you appreciate ur way of showing the assembly.
your vid saved me. Your a legend
Glad I could help
Super! All the part list there!😎
Great video! Very informative. I would highly recommend investing in some specialist bearing press/installation tools (dead blow hammer, plastic cups etc) due to the damage that can be caused using a conventional hammer/socket when installing. I plan to restore my 260/6 very soon, will definitely buy the manual you’re using for the specs
You may have found out by yourself in the meantime (I am aware that this video was posted 11 months ago). But just in case you might be interested to know that Curil K2 is replaced by Curil T2. T2 comes with improved gap fill and is free of solvants (so says the manufacturer).
Did not know that. Thank you, I’ll be buying some!
Love the content bro
Thanks bro!!!
What ! 1 hour video!😳😳😳
The real deal
Thanks brother man
Great video! very informative. Have you resolved the whining or clunking noises from the transmission after the rebuild? Thanks
Thanks! yes to both-whining and clunking at idle
Great Video! Could you provide information regarding from where you sourced the bearings?
Thanks. Got the bearing from the dealership.
Awesome video! I have a Getrag 250, it growls at 50 mph in deceleration. Goes away under and over this. It also sounds it goes to the diff. But the diff has new bearings, pilot changed 2 years ago, driveshaft and axles no play, mounts okay. Any suggestions? Bearings in the gearbox? It had some play the output shaft when I checked it. Changed for a new used 250, same story. But also had play.
Thank you. Yes, most likely bearings and double check the clearances if you install new ones, there may be some wear causing that sound that can be taken up by new shims. Def replace input/output shaft bearing and both countershaft bearings.
@@85garage Your welcome! Thank you for your answer and this is what I believed myself. Just wanted to confirm it
Thanks for the videos.
I got a question for you, I bought a rebuild getrag 260 for my ‘86 325e but I didn’t know about the different bell housing between the early and the late models. My question is, can you interchange the bell housings?
Thanks again!
Yes, but you may have to use a different throw out bearing depending on which part number is one the side of it. Last time I bolted an eta getrag with the 2 crank sensor holes to an “I” engine I used the same throw out bearing with no problem so I’m not sure which one you have.
www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/transmission-driveline/73563-getrag-260-interchange-and-information-good-info
Here’s a good resource of info
@@85garage Thank you so much for all the info.
This is my first time dealing with mayor drivetrain components on any car. I dint notice the bell housings where different until I notice it wast going in all the way and it wouldn't clock properly because the starter was in the way... by the way, I put the old throw out bearing and fork to the rebuilt gearbox and it fit just fine.
Wicked cool. Got any good places for decently priced synchros? Mine are completely shot and tossing up whether or not to fix them or not, got quoted over $300AUD per synchro at one place.....
Thanks. Haven’t found them anywhere except OEM from the dealer and like you said, they’re very expensive.
Thank you for your video! I will do mine too! Can you share with me what kind of book do you have. What I found is barely readable... Thank you in advance!
I’m using the Bentley manual. Thanks for watching!
Hey, did you ever film another video on the 325ix transfer case? I’m in the process of putting one back together
Not yet. I don’t have new bearing and seals for it yet. I’ll try and get a vid out soon about that. In the meantime you can message me if you have any trouble putting it back together.
@@85garage if you’re having trouble finding them, that’s something I might be able to help with. But my question at the moment is, are there supposed to be 2 seals butted face to face on the front driveshaft output gear? I read that in one of the forums but that makes the install very annoying and I wasn’t sure why that would be needed anyways
@@danehooper9298 thanks, it’s not availability but more so the spare time to get it done. I’ve got several larger projects going on right now haha. Soon though. Yes the front output shaft seals on the T-case are installed face to face. First one goes in like a normal oil seal installation and then the second one gets put in with the open side facing outwards. If the second one is flush or just slightly below the opening in the case you’ve got the right depth.
@@85garage thanks! Very annoying install then
Leogrande makes a greasable stainless clutch fork pivot pin that is made to fit e30's. Sorta pricy tho
Nice, I’ll check that out
I leave in Greece and at the summer it gets really hot, like 30-35 degrees Celsius. What oil should i use??? I found GL4 75W80 is the one. Any ideas??? Why does the tranny say ATF?
ATF was factory fill according to the labels of most of the getrags I’ve worked on. Shifting is easier with ATF in my climate (mild summers and cold the rest of the year). The gear oil you suggested would be better suited for your climate. Shifting might be difficult might be difficult in your climate with ATF along with more gear noise.
When you where putting the rear case onto the gear train, why did you put the countershaft bearing into the race rather than sitting it on the end of the countershaft? That is what I did and am curious if this was an oversight
You can do it either way, just find it easier to line up despite it usually falling out once or twice during install.
@@85garage awesome thank you! And thank you for this video! Just got it all back together last night thanks to you. Last step is to press the input shaft bearing
@@mapletree736Thanks for watching!Careful pressing the input shaft bearing in and rig up a tool like I did to some extent otherwise you’ll get bearing noise. Let me know if you have any issues pressing it in.
@@85garageSo I still haven't pressed it in because im scared 😂. When you pressed it in originally with the old bearing, did it not matter that you where only pressing the inner race? Did you just heat it up enough to not have any resistance one the outer race?
Would you be willing to rebuild one for me? Where are you located?