Personally I would have put the slot in the beam and the tab on the post. That way you would have had 2x the bearing surface for the beam and still been able to screw them together.
FYI, assuming that's a green 8x8, spanning 22ft minus 4ft for the bracing, so spanning 18ft +/-, your green 8x8 is probably going to sag over time. On larger 18-24ft spans I typically use 8x12 or 12x12. Your lifting method can even be applied to raise an entire assembled roof /truss system, just needs to be timed on the pulleys. Best regards
You are correct. I am already experiencing sagging. I am going to have to do 2 more braces to prevent it from sagging more. I will remember that tip for the future. Thank you!
Two things:you want to make sure the wood grain doesn't retain moisture. So I install ~1" of sand below concrete & above the bottom of post. If bottom of post is in a cup of any kind, it rots faster. Second, I drive a bolt or spike thru post about 6" and then at 90 ° about 12" above the bottomof post, captured in concrete.
Cut a 2x4 a couple feet long. Radius the top. Screw one to the back face of each post, near the top. The rope will slide over that Radius. Screw a foot long 2x4 on that one, 6 inches taller, to hold the rope on. Tie the rope to the beam. Rope goes up n over the Radius. Back down. Pull the beam half way up. Tie it off. Hoist the other end up nearly all the way. Leave it about a foot low. Hoist the first end up the rest of the way. Tie it off. Set each end from the ladder.
Make tieing it off easy: take another short rope. Tie a clove hitch knot around the post. Knee hight from the ground. Tie a loop a foot or so up from that. Pull the beam up, put the tag end of your rope through that loop. Tie an easy slip knot on itself at the loop. When it's time to undo the rope in order to hoist the beam further just pull the slip knot out n pull until the beam reaches the top.
I had to do the same thing once.. I pulled my truck in and stood on top. After it was up.. I pulled the truck out and everybody asked how I did that.. I said I've been studying the Egyptian way of building.😆
Here is a suggestion on lifting your post, scab a 2 by on side opposite of your mortise away from your pull 3 to 4 ft above top of post, drill a hole in top of 2by and tie a piece of rope with snatch block on it before mounting it to your post, place a snatch block at bottom of post, run a rope thru bottom snatch block up to the snatch block you mounted on 2by at top back down to the beam you want to lift, tie the opposite end to front bumper of your truck then back up and watch your beam as it goes up, you'll be lifting past the top of our support post a little as you adjust and can easy it down into position. The force of your pull will be more at the bottom than the top, that way it want pull top of post over. Always get your top snatch block at least 3ft above your work area or 4 if space permits.
Ummmmm……didn’t you weaken the beam connections by cutting 2/3rds of it off of the ends to make your tab? Only 1/3 of the beam’s width is now holding up into the cradle of the posts! Seems that it would’ve been sturdier to just lay the beam onto the top of the posts without any notches being cut, and then use Simpson Strong Ties to secure them joints together, (but I’m no engineer). Amazing, that you were able to get that beam off the ground, so high up! Stay safe!
You’re probably right. That was the first time I’ve ever done anything like that. When I do the back posts I am going to do things differently. Thanks for the comment.
Beautiful hoisting job. But if you cut the ends of your beam as you have, you might as well make the entire beam the same size as the tabs at either end. Thus no real chore to hoist it up. Either use a much larger beam if you want to tab it like that, or reverse the tab from beam to post so that you get more bearing area, or add posts to that beam for proper support.
That hoisting setup is called a gin pole. A very sketchy gin pole. If done with rated rigging equipment it's actually a legitimate way of hoisting things. Good job at getting the job done with what you had on hand.
Very gratifying for you I am sure. You like to work like I do. Shouldn't the shoulders of the beam be butting up against the slots in the posts? Perhaps you could fill that gap with some lumber to make it more rigid. I'm sure you could make it look intentional.
Always screw a board on your post on 2 sides. Shoulder height. Other end is contacting the ground about 4-5 feet away from post. Adjust by kicking them closer or further at the ground. Easy to twist the beam. No need to pull rocks out 😉
If we could go back in time and see how are ancestors did things it would make us cringe but hey they got it done. You have to work with what you have. Looks like you have a nice piece of property there. 👍
looks like tulip poplar beams. looks like used motor oil on the beams. for me, this is just fine and will serve adequately, but...also for me, I would use some type of pine, or then red oak or white oak while taking care to notice the bow in the original log and keeping track of that if there is not a bow in the beam itself to let me know what the top side should be. Pine et al is better than oak for a 21 foot distance because it doesn't have to hold itself up so much like the oak does, which causes the oak to lose it's architectural strength. see .
Good job doing it by yourself - however - @24:51 look at the "finished" top of the right post - somehow it never fully seated the shoulders of the beam into the post. Loosen the upper end of the 45 degree support and beat the post to the left to finish seating it and then finish screwing the top of the post and the upper end of the support. Not doing that final seating means that that right end of the beam is not supported correctly and could crack or even fail with final drying and (if you have it there) snow load.
@@tennesseetimber Not trying to be a nit-picker but NOW is the time to fix that little thing so it doesn't become a big thing later on. One other little thing - you chose to mount those 45 degree braces underneath the beam and to the inside of the post. If it doesn't screw up your further plans unscrew the braces and side mount (beam and posts) two braces on each side (one on each side of the post and up to the same side of the beam). Total 4 braces, 6+ times stronger and sturdier for just two more braces and a couple of screws. GOOD project for that sawmill shed you're doing there.
1st great job getting up by yourself. I have a tractor to help me lift things up that high but I'm almost always working by myself. You can take a look at my channel and see if I give you some different ideas. What size beam is that? 4x4 ? Did you do weight load calculations, do you get snow? I don't know your weight loads but my concern is it won't handle them and it will break.
That is not the way to mix concrete. What you did may be OK and it may not. No way to tell till it fails. You should mix it outside the hole in a proper mixer, wheelbarrow of mud box before putting it in the hole, so you know it is thoroughly mixed and all the cement is hydrated. Using longer extensions to raise the snatch block higher would have made this easier.
Nice job! I have done similar things. Nothing beats that feeling when the beam drops into place and you think to yourself "That actually worked!". :)
My thoughts exactly! Thank you!
When you work alone you get creative engineering ideas and make what you have work for you. Nice job
Thank you!
Personally I would have put the slot in the beam and the tab on the post. That way you would have had 2x the bearing surface for the beam and still been able to screw them together.
Didn’t think about that! That’s a good idea.
great job
FYI, assuming that's a green 8x8, spanning 22ft minus 4ft for the bracing, so spanning 18ft +/-, your green 8x8 is probably going to sag over time. On larger 18-24ft spans I typically use 8x12 or 12x12. Your lifting method can even be applied to raise an entire assembled roof /truss system, just needs to be timed on the pulleys. Best regards
You are correct. I am already experiencing sagging. I am going to have to do 2 more braces to prevent it from sagging more. I will remember that tip for the future. Thank you!
Two things:you want to make sure the wood grain doesn't retain moisture. So I install ~1" of sand below concrete & above the bottom of post. If bottom of post is in a cup of any kind, it rots faster. Second, I drive a bolt or spike thru post about 6" and then at 90 ° about 12" above the bottomof post, captured in concrete.
Those are great ideas! I will do that the next time I put posts in the ground. Thank you.
lol Love the humor! And you got me on 6’7”!
Im building a 2 level deck on my own. Seeing you work with persistence and creativity brings inspiration.
I appreciate it! Good luck!
I always do it about the same way you did. If you don’t let the cement get too wet , you can plumb it up and tweak it after you put the cement in.
Cut a 2x4 a couple feet long. Radius the top. Screw one to the back face of each post, near the top. The rope will slide over that Radius. Screw a foot long 2x4 on that one, 6 inches taller, to hold the rope on. Tie the rope to the beam. Rope goes up n over the Radius. Back down. Pull the beam half way up. Tie it off. Hoist the other end up nearly all the way. Leave it about a foot low. Hoist the first end up the rest of the way. Tie it off. Set each end from the ladder.
Make tieing it off easy: take another short rope. Tie a clove hitch knot around the post. Knee hight from the ground. Tie a loop a foot or so up from that. Pull the beam up, put the tag end of your rope through that loop. Tie an easy slip knot on itself at the loop. When it's time to undo the rope in order to hoist the beam further just pull the slip knot out n pull until the beam reaches the top.
I had to do the same thing once.. I pulled my truck in and stood on top. After it was up.. I pulled the truck out and everybody asked how I did that.. I said I've been studying the Egyptian way of building.😆
Haha! When you don’t have a machine to help you have to get creative!
Nice work man!
The "sorry mom" had me gigglin
Here is a suggestion on lifting your post, scab a 2 by on side opposite of your mortise away from your pull 3 to 4 ft above top of post, drill a hole in top of 2by and tie a piece of rope with snatch block on it before mounting it to your post, place a snatch block at bottom of post, run a rope thru bottom snatch block up to the snatch block you mounted on 2by at top back down to the beam you want to lift, tie the opposite end to front bumper of your truck then back up and watch your beam as it goes up, you'll be lifting past the top of our support post a little as you adjust and can easy it down into position. The force of your pull will be more at the bottom than the top, that way it want pull top of post over. Always get your top snatch block at least 3ft above your work area or 4 if space permits.
Great idea! Thanks for your advice! I will have to try that!
Great Job. I always work alone and my methods are sketchy. But I get it done.
Ummmmm……didn’t you weaken the beam connections by cutting 2/3rds of it off of the ends to make your tab? Only 1/3 of the beam’s width is now holding up into the cradle of the posts! Seems that it would’ve been sturdier to just lay the beam onto the top of the posts without any notches being cut, and then use Simpson Strong Ties to secure them joints together, (but I’m no engineer). Amazing, that you were able to get that beam off the ground, so high up! Stay safe!
You’re probably right. That was the first time I’ve ever done anything like that. When I do the back posts I am going to do things differently. Thanks for the comment.
You did great....and are humble....and entertaining.
Great job. You have learned a lot doing this, so you will be better the next time. Keep learning, that's what it's all about
Thank you! Thanks for watching
Beautiful hoisting job. But if you cut the ends of your beam as you have, you might as well make the entire beam the same size as the tabs at either end. Thus no real chore to hoist it up. Either use a much larger beam if you want to tab it like that, or reverse the tab from beam to post so that you get more bearing area, or add posts to that beam for proper support.
That hoisting setup is called a gin pole. A very sketchy gin pole. If done with rated rigging equipment it's actually a legitimate way of hoisting things. Good job at getting the job done with what you had on hand.
Great to know! Thank you!
Man your going to go under that every time with a huge smile! Great job!!!
Thank you!
West tn sawyer here also, camden.
Do whatever needs to get done, good start on the sawshed
Thank you!
Congrats
Just did a 2x6 doubled 34’ 12’ high solo ,, at 55 office worker this was an effort
Very gratifying for you I am sure. You like to work like I do. Shouldn't the shoulders of the beam be butting up against the slots in the posts? Perhaps you could fill that gap with some lumber to make it more rigid. I'm sure you could make it look intentional.
that’s a huge beam! 💪
Plumbing your posts!
Level,plumb and square is what you shoot for.Good job!
Thank you!
Always screw a board on your post on 2 sides. Shoulder height. Other end is contacting the ground about 4-5 feet away from post. Adjust by kicking them closer or further at the ground. Easy to twist the beam. No need to pull rocks out 😉
If we could go back in time and see how are ancestors did things it would make us cringe but hey they got it done. You have to work with what you have. Looks like you have a nice piece of property there. 👍
Thank you!
looks like tulip poplar beams. looks like used motor oil on the beams. for me, this is just fine and will serve adequately, but...also for me, I would use some type of pine, or then red oak or white oak while taking care to notice the bow in the original log and keeping track of that if there is not a bow in the beam itself to let me know what the top side should be. Pine et al is better than oak for a 21 foot distance because it doesn't have to hold itself up so much like the oak does, which causes the oak to lose it's architectural strength. see .
White oak is the only wood to use for beams that long if your going to build a structure that has weight bearing on the beam white oak can go 2x12x24
wow, a real he-man!
Fantastic!!!!
It’s not stupid if it works!!
Chains would be good next time.
Great work!
hmm what did they use before old motor oil and store bought oils?
It’s pretty good where are you from what kind of did you take for the post and beam good work
Good job doing it by yourself - however - @24:51 look at the "finished" top of the right post - somehow it never fully seated the shoulders of the beam into the post. Loosen the upper end of the 45 degree support and beat the post to the left to finish seating it and then finish screwing the top of the post and the upper end of the support. Not doing that final seating means that that right end of the beam is not supported correctly and could crack or even fail with final drying and (if you have it there) snow load.
I see! Thanks for letting me know. I will try and fix it.
@@tennesseetimber Not trying to be a nit-picker but NOW is the time to fix that little thing so it doesn't become a big thing later on.
One other little thing - you chose to mount those 45 degree braces underneath the beam and to the inside of the post. If it doesn't screw up your further plans unscrew the braces and side mount (beam and posts) two braces on each side (one on each side of the post and up to the same side of the beam). Total 4 braces, 6+ times stronger and sturdier for just two more braces and a couple of screws.
GOOD project for that sawmill shed you're doing there.
Not sure, but the size of the soccer goal posts are alittle on the big side, dont you think?😉
The wood is a bit lighter compare top our wood is real heavy (Borneo wood)
Well done dude.. you persisted and it worked but a bit dangerous.. but hey.. nice one
Haha! Thank you
Im assembling a carport soon and looking for ideas to heist beams into place...
Hope this helps
Great job
Morning to you first time watching the video
Thanks for watching!
Very impressive!! Great video!
A lot of sweet but you got it done 😅
Just found your channel and enjoy your videos. Terry
oh! nice string method! “this stupid hole” 😂
well it was entertaining john
would have been safer if not smarter to have notched them on the ground. Curious why such a gap between the tenon and mortise?
Good idea! The reason is because it’s my first time doing it and it didn’t go as well as it could have. Thanks for watching!
1st great job getting up by yourself. I have a tractor to help me lift things up that high but I'm almost always working by myself. You can take a look at my channel and see if I give you some different ideas. What size beam is that? 4x4 ? Did you do weight load calculations, do you get snow? I don't know your weight loads but my concern is it won't handle them and it will break.
Did not do weight load calculations, I’ve never heard of that before. They are 6x6 posts. We do get a little snow, but not much.
Next time have a buddy help you!
If I were your mom I would impress a board on your back side!
But great job!
Haha! Thank you
6 foot 7… i was like, uhhhhh 😂
Your killin me, why didn't you set both ends from your ladder, and set it against the post so you aren't reaching out to handle the beam
Too heavy to lift one end off the ground without the other end being up in the air already.
Women everywhere freak out. Us guys just go cool.
Yes well a string level only works if it is hung exactly in the middle
Good to know! Thank you
Impressive but you are going to hurt yourelf! recomend using lift straps and built an " A " hoist to move bigger timbers
Have to look into that. Thanks for the advice.
That is not the way to mix concrete. What you did may be OK and it may not. No way to tell till it fails. You should mix it outside the hole in a proper mixer, wheelbarrow of mud box before putting it in the hole, so you know it is thoroughly mixed and all the cement is hydrated. Using longer extensions to raise the snatch block higher would have made this easier.
All good ideas! Thank you!
Must be a cost plus job
Mark your level at chest height then measure up
Thank you
What part of Tennessee do you live in. I'm southwest of Nashville
I’m in West Tennessee
Cool not too far away. I have a timberking sawmill coming in 4 weeks, just trying to network with other sawyers in the area.
That’s awesome man! I know you will enjoy it. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
Tennessee? That explains it then. Not the sharpest tool in the shed. I'm just kidding. Or am I?
Lot harder than digging a hole in winter haven, just saying
ridiculous. Would be lucky to weigh 100 kilo. Try lifting some Aussie hard woods