Don't Build a Sawmill Shed Like I Did
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- When starting out building any project I put a great deal of time and thought into the general layout in hopes of getting things right the first time. Sometimes the end result is exactly what I wanted with a perfect outcome. Sometimes I realize things were missed after the fact and in the case of my sawmill shed and general sawmill layout, this is certainly true. I learned the hard way that having a wide open space is best as it allows for the most options in terms of log loading, lumber stacking and waste management. I also learned that having the largest shed possible is also best as this gives you the greatest space to get around and allows for everything to be well protected from the elements. Trust me when I say the elements will try to get at you and your sawmill at ever possible instance. I also learned the value of having a solid platform underfoot as compared with a dirt floor. One sure is nicer to work on than the other. Glad you're all here to listen to what I"ve learned over the years as many of you embark on your own sawmill shed buildings. Here we go!
#sawingwithsandy #discoverthewoodland #sawmill
Thanks for all your hard work making these videos and for all the great tips (both from you and your viewers leaving comments)!
I appreciate your support Liz!
agreed.
You explain so many things so well that you are a real Blessing to people who watch your videos. Thank you for your honesty and transparency. Chip
Hi Sandy, you could just simply build a wooden ramp at the opposite end of Hideout 2.0, take out a few trees and back the sawmill where the old sawmill was. Then set up your waste rack. The waste rack could be easily moved when you need to pull out the sawmill. And the sawdust would go out the back as before.
After thinking more about it you may be right. That would be a good setup
Yes use your quad with a 2 in ball on it.
You could take your forks and pickup the sawmill and set it up on the higher platform. Just idea. Have a great day be safe.
That’s not a bad idea actually! I appreciate that!
That would make it fairly easy to have a log bed extension that was detachable and stayed on the deck too.
Pick up mill set in place, line up with extension and couple it. Save the time and money to use towards more toys and upgrades!
Exactly what I was thinking.
I was about to suggest using fork too. Good luck figuring it out
So much great information Sandy. The Woodland Mills community is very lucky to have you making these videos. Thank you!!!
Anytime Steve
Howdy Sandy- I understand what you’re talking about with having the perfect setup for a sawmill shed. That’s my next project. I did pour a concrete slab to set the mill on which I did right. The actual shed itself hasn’t come to complete fruition in my head. At least we don’t have to worry about much snow here. You will get everything all figured out and it will make a great video. God bless
I appreciate that! Sounds like a good start you’ve got going. With time I’m sure the perfect setup will be there as well
Down here in South Carolina, if I have to scrape ice off the mill it’s too damned cold to be outside. Love your videos.
Haha I hear ya. Funny as it sounds winter milling is some of my favourite unless it’s realllly cold
@@sawingwithsandy mine too because the heat and humidity makes milling possible during the cooler months. Plus, once late spring starts there is so much to do on the farm.
You answered your own question. Pole barn is the answer and go big! Nice wide open area instead of the small confined spaces you're dealing with now. Big overhangs and raise the grade with some well compacted fill, and mud shouldn't be a problem. Blowing snow will tend to be a problem on one side more than another and you'll know which one, you can close in that side or just hang a tarp.
Thank you for your insight. Perfection is always expensive, some times good enough IS perfect.
I agree with ya there. Sometimes good enough prevails
Hi Sandy, thank you for all your entertainment and learning videos.
Hope you had a good Christmas, Happy, prosperous and most of all healthy New Year to you and family, friends and viewers
Greetings from NE rural Ohio
Hi Aliscia, I appreciate the warms wishes! Merry Christmas and I hope your New Year starts off great!
My vote is to remove the horizontal board you have to duck under to go from the old sawmill deck to the drying deck. Good as gold, you'll forget to duck one way or another.
Great video as always. Have a Happy New Year!
For sure. Is on the to-do list. Happy New Year!
Merry Christmas Sandy!
Never underestimate where a concrete truck can go, they have smaller trucks and bigger ones with more tires to spread the weight(as long your in your dry season) Concrete is super easy and cheaper than you think. 10mm rebar grid 16” o.c slightly sloped to drain, 4”-6” slab on compacted gravel, borrow rent or buy laser level and set forms to correct height. With the width you would want you could just use a straight piece of lumber and smooth the top out, rent a bull float for the day and broom finish it.
The large pads that you cannot reach other side you have to creat leveling pads in the wet concrete but since your would be narrow you have the top of the fork to slide on. If you go this route just have some friend over for some simple grunt work for an hour.
Cheers
I appreciate that. I’ve been around some concrete but never tackled my own pour and you’ve made some great points
Sandy, dont be afraid of pouring your own slab. At 59 I poured a 12 x 30 slab by myself by doing 12 x 5 each day using a 1/6th yard mixer. The 5 wide is easy enough to finish by working from both sides with just hand tools, the hardest part aside from the shoveling of course was probably the screeding, two people would have been real handy there with one on each end of the screed board.
I poured one day, stripped forms and readied grade and forms for the next slab the following day then pouring again the day after. This size is about a yard per pour depending on how thick you go.
The day off between pours both allowed me to heal a bit but also set the concrete so I could get on it to finish the next pour. It took 12 days from start to finish.
Use class two base for your sand rock mix and add 1 cement to 5 base, always look at the mix to verify you cannot see color of the sand/rock, it should be a uniform gray. Never hurts to put too much cement but too little will make it a crumbly surface.
All dry material coming in so easy to work with at your pace and you should be able to get it in just about anywhere you can drag the 130Max using a dump trailer.
I have a 130Max also, I agree with you that it sits a little low as mine is not on a trailer, just on a concrete slab. I dont think it needs to be as high as the trailer though. My tractor will only lift 1500lbs and a wet 24 to 30" log can easily pass that at 12 to 16 feet not to mention 20 feet or more. I have two extensions and can cut logs up to 22' long.
Great videos, you have been a great help and inspiration for many.
Thought I would mention, my plan is to add another extension to mine partly so I can hit that 24' length for long beams but more importantly give me room to add a CNC gantry with a router to the other end of the mill. This way I can carve half log or slab signs for property entrances either on the ground or over top a driveway, bar tops or whatever up to that max length and have parking for the CNC at the far end of the mill.
All great advice. Thank you for that
Cutting those super long beams would be great! The gantry as well would be a handy addition. You've got me thinking now haha
I put gravel on the floor of my sawmill shed. It works great. Also I take the leaf blower and blow all the sawdust out. I attached a 5 gallon pail to the sawmill shoot and just dump it outside when it is full. I find this works well.
Good to hear first-hand about that setup Kevin. Always wondered how some good gravel would work. Sounds like it works real well
I used #1 asphalt millings over a bed of crushed stone and while putting the materials in I used a small roller compactor. Now I have a elevated level and dry platform for my mill
That’s a great option for me as well John. Thanks for that idea
Nice summary of the pros and cons. I've been thinking about using a 1 inch metal grate platform instead of decking where the sawdust blows. If there's a nice deep but flat area underneath where I can reach it from the side I can just use a skid loader from time to time to pull out some sawdust and throw it on the compost pile.
Grate platform is a great idea. Not one I"ve thought about before. That would be a greats actually
Probably a series of 2 ft x 4 ft sections with some hinges (that will last the weather) so you can flip them up when you need to clear the sawdust out... but that's a bit "fancy"! 😏 2 ft wide might be a bit narrow for the spray.
I can't believe the progress you have made. I started following you when you built that log shed.
Thanks for being a long time viewer. Always something new to try and build :)
Now that you have worked the mill and developed some understanding of the best layout, stick with that layout. Minimize all motion (walk & wood) first. So wood load comes in like you have it and saw dust out the other side by itself. Slide lumber the long direction out and waste off the other long direction. That way easy tractor access to load logs and remove lumber and scrap piles. Once the process is figured out, then design the building to fit the process. Yes, extended deck and everything under a roof with tarped walls. Get the tart which has clear plastic windows so when it is down, you still have a view. Could the scrap side be the direction for backing in the saw mill? Or like you said, make a lumber foundation with 2x8s and fill everything with a good packable gravel with a ramp at either end to allow you to ride the tractor through the length of the building and just drop it off. If the Mill was always permanent, I would suggest finding cheep roller conveyor sections to slide the lumber to the storage building. That would minimize your lifting reduce the number of trips to the lumber storage location. Sorry, this is my years of auto industry with processing human and robot motion. It pains me to watch your setup knowing that it could be tweaked for more efficiencies. The effort to cut down the pines would be well worth the improvements. Your buildings are nice for the first/second try, but process first, then enclosure. Right now the building and trees are limiting the improvement of your process. BTW - I'm the same guy that mentioned using the half PVC tubes over the log entry ramps for better sliding. Be Safe! Truly enjoy watching your videos and hearing your thoughts. Similar to your comment, that is my 2 cents, which might not even be worth 2 cents. LOL
Well Robert I can tell ya your comments are definitely worth more than 2 cents haha. Thanks for the ideas, really got me thinking
Everyone's situation is unique and you brought up many good points to consider. I am in the process of planning and building a sawmill shed for mine.
You're right there about being unique to each persons different areas. Hope your planning is going well for your setup Eric
Hi Sandy I have learned a lot from your video's and appreciate all the work to creat them. A suggestion I have if you are looking for a hard surface to keep your mill on is look for older flat bed transport trailer that can't be safetied anymore. Trucking companies sell them for scarp price or you might get lucky and get one free. I know people that got them free. You can rent or borrow a ( joe dog ) fifth wheel tow bar on wheels and tow to your place with your tractor then remove the rear wheels and put to the height you want on timbers or cement blocks. Most trailers have a slider rear wheel set up and come off with just a couple pins. You might have to get somebody with a little bigger tractor if you have a bunch of hills. If the deck on trailer is not good just use your wood to deck over. I also have a 130 max and I use old grocery store rollers ( got them free ) to move my lumber away then use skids to move and store for drying.
Great tip George! Thank you for that
Great video. You covered a lot of ground a drawing would be nice. 1 you cannot clean stone or stone base. 2 you could rent a mixer, you would be surprised how much you could pour in a day with some help. You could also do the pour in segments, when help or finance was available. Thanks again you brought up some really good insightful points.
Great points about mixing and pouring myself, would take some work but surely a good option
There was a guy on UA-cam that laid an enormous concrete slab by hand - it just took him awhile.
How he did it was he formed up small areas, installed reinforcing mesh and drilled holes in the formwork for reinforcing starter bars going through from the wet side into fresh air to mechanically connect the next next slab section when he got around to it (which now only requires 3 sides to be formed).
Point is you don't need to do it all at once.
For our purposes it doesn't really need to be more than 100mm thick - I know I asked someone as I just got a wood mill too.
I imagine 3x3m sections being able to be done. The first one is a steep learning curve but then it starts getting easier as experience is gained and you get a work flow happening.
A concreter I asked told me 100mm would be even stronger if you could use a vibrator. He said at that thickness only insert it in each area for no more than a few seconds but I suppose he's used to proper powerful concreter ones. He said it significantly increases slab strength. Anyway handyman ones are available on eBay for sub $500.
Definitely use re bar to connect sections and mesh inside. You don't need to have mesh sheets of 3x3 m. Just get them to cut them into sizes you can fit on a trailer with some overlap factored in.
A roughish surface is desirable for what we want so no need for any fancy shop floor finishes. That saves work too.
I appreciate that info!
Having the mill under a roof is the ideal thing. Have you thought of sliding doors to block the snow from blowing in? I put sliding doors on my tractor shed to keep the snow out. Works good. Use the barn door type. Good info on the mill set up. Take care and stay safe. From: Petawawa, Ontario.
Think about deconstructing your buildings and reconstructing the assembly that you just described you could overlap beams cinch them together and make a longer opening so that you can accomplish most of your desired comments. However I love all your UA-cam videos and have been a subscriber for some time. Please please keep it up. You are an inspiration to so many people.
Thanks for the kind words William. I appreciate your support
I like your idea of removing some of the top layer of soil in preparation to create a more solid pad under your mill. One suggestion would be to use a good filler as the initial base...then consider bringing in Limestone as the top layer. It packs well and can be topped up from time to time and graded when needed. As for tackling snow melt into your building area - maybe install weeping tile or drainage pipe to redirect water away or around your working area. Especially between the mill and the lumber storage rack.
All great ideas Dan. Thank you
Nice tips, I'd geocell grid some old tires (filled with stone/gravel) on the lower mill to get you out of the dirt. The gravel would has great drainage so your not working in the mud and get you up off the ground. Make a little ram to park the mill up on the grid at this point.
Thank you for this video. I'm in Hawaii and about to build MY sawmill shed for my 130Max, and this video made me think about stuff I might have missed. So thanks again!
Try about 4 inches of woodchips on the ground around the mill. That's what I use and my HM130MAX is at the bottom of a hill. The woodchips keep things clean when it's muddy, they're free, and they can be added to your compost piles or to cover sloppy areas on your roads whenever you clean up. It's a win-win-win. I've been putting off building a work platform for several years simply because the woodchips work so well.
That’s a good solution! Thanks for the idea
I did my sawing inside with a small mill like you had, I found an old leaf blower adapted it to pull the saw dust from saw and blow it into a barrel with a filter bag on it. made dealing with saw dust much easier and cleaner.
Good idea right there. Thanks for that
Awesome job. Thanks for all of your insight, Sandy. Cheers...
Happy to have ya along for the video!
Hi Sandy glad your new mill is the right height to make the job easy on the body If it was my setup there would be no buildings. I see you have a shop at the home that you could store your mill in and take back and forth with the tractor every time you go out With the large open space you can clean the snow and the waste with the tractor to make a nice place to set the mill up in fast time. Also I would put a hydraulic log loader on the mill then would only need two timbers on the ground. Traps work good to cover up lumber piles. from John
Thanks for that John. Good to hear all kinds of ideas
Thanks for all your great ideas Sandy. I intend on building a setup similar to yours, however, I intend to be able to drive my sawmill and trailer in at one end, and drive it out at the other end when I need to move it. I also intend to use my ATV to move it around. I am thinking of building a lumber shed attachment to the back, rather than the end, like you have. the slabs will be in the front, next to the log deck, which will be on a couple of runners on the ground and the logs will be loaded onto the sawmill using ramps and an electric winch! Cheers! :)
I also like that idea Paul. Would make for an easy work flow.
Another great video Sandy! I love getting knowledge from your past experience and how you are open and honest about it all. I have noticed in some of your other videos and is now very clear from this one that your forest was planted by a man. Edit: you state that it is planted…
Best way to really learn what is the best is time and experience and all that you have did has not only taught you but all the people watching and I really thank you for that do you have head some very good ideas that I have tried also and worked out well great video Sandy
Always happy to pass along what I’ve learned Jeff
For better lighting under a tin roof shed I suggest every third strip be polycarbonate instead of tin. Maybe even just squares of it, the middle third down from the peak on each side. For a concrete pad, a 2 inch stone base, compacted, and a 4 inch dry pour top. 80 pound bags of high strength ready mix, smooth it really good, dry, then use a 4 gallon hand pump sprayer to wet the top with a mist. Wait an hour, mist again. Repeat. Cover with tarp, concrete cures when damp and is hard in 24 hours, strong in 72 hours, maximum strength in 28 days. Watch some videos. Tee off the front of the shed with a gable end addition to cover the log deck.
Great video Sandy, and great tips!👍🏻
Thanks James!
I’m going to build a A frame with shed roof off each side. This way I can offload lumber and keep dry and load logs onto log rails like yours to keep dry as well. You can buy cheap stone path forms to make your walking surface at mill. It takes an 80 lbs bag per mold and cover almost 3 ft wide and long. Thanks for tips!
Great suggestion regarding the stone path forms. Thanks for watching :)
Thanks for sharing you thoughts on the 'ideal sawmill shed' with us.I'm finally going to build my sawmill shed this summer and I've been debating whether I should just leave the original ground surface, concrete, or crushed granite. Your conversation helped a great deal.(I have an HM130MAx woodlander with an extension.)
Glad I could help Paul. Keep me updated on your setup when it comes time to get it done
@@sawingwithsandy will do
I've been with you a few years. You have a very nice set up. What's the chances of a wood floor again. Rock under it with the wood on top. Thanks for all the info on does and don'ts. Be safe. I'll be watching for the next video.
Hi Gene, I appreciate your support over the years. Could very well get another wood floor built maybe just a little differently as I do like using wood where I can
I probably would put down pressure treated runners an build a boardwalk/deck type of setup. That's what I did for my shed out back. It started off with a dirt floor. Thanks for the vid.
Think that would work quite well.
Good video. There are always things that you learn after the project is done.
It would appear that having the trailer sitting on the deck in Hill Billy Hideout 2.0 would solve some problems while making new ones. 1st big problem is getting the trailer on and off the deck. A number of ideas have been proposed, you can figure out what might work best for yourself. The large opening allowing snow to blow in was a problem that you tried to solve with rollup tarps. That solution seemed to be problematic. Perhaps something that you could fabricate yourself that would function more like a garage door would work better? It could still be made of tarps, but run on a track or roll up from the top? The snow falling off the roof in the back could be addressed by lengthening the rafters and adding another piece of roofing. That would put the snow further away. By having the lumber shed in its current location, you don't have to walk out that way on a regular basis, so the height wouldn't be a concern as it was previously.
Thank you for the thoughts on what has worked and what needs improved. These are valuable ideas for me as I plan for a sawmill and a shed to keep it in.
Keep improving. It's how we move forward.
Very well put Mike
Happy New Year,wish you all the best in 2023..
Happy New Year to you too!
For the "going concern" small sawmill - A 3 "bay" open floor plan utility building insulated to super insulation levels with shredded wood fiber or just plain sawdust. Bay one for the log trailer, bay 2 for the sawmill, bay 3 for the dry kiln charge carriage on elevated rails enabling it to be easily moved into the outside, modular, easily moveable wood fired dry kiln. Rapid, minimum effort, movement of log on trailer to mill bed and sawed lumber to charge carriage to dry kiln.
Use the forks to lift the mill in from the side, would be perhaps a good idea to bolt a steel profiles transverse under the frame where to slide in the forks. Might be little more stable and avoid some damages while lifting and moving..
That's a good point about the supports Harri. Thanks for that
Nice job. My wife and I finished our sawmill port last summer, and one thing I learned the hard way was this: make sure you have the clearance for the ruler when you raise your sawmill head 30” to mill a 30” log. The mill head shafts do not raise up as the head is raised but the ruler does. I do not have the height, and looking at your setup I’m not sure you do either. 20”-22” are my average and no problem. 30” and my ruler does not clear the support beams. So I’m working on a solution. (By the way I got the same setup you have on a trailer but with one additional extension.) Again I really like your videos related to your sawmill and the ones where you just make use of what you have and make it work. Good stuff!
Great tip there Richard!
Hi Sandy. Great suggestions and ideas. Thanks.
Happy holidays 😊
Happy Holidays!
Your suggestion will save people new to milling lot of anguish
Thanks Bryan I hope so too
How about a ramp that you can pull the sawmill into the hillbilly hideout? You could use your atv or snowmobile to pull it in and out.
I think the ramps idea would work well if the atv will pull the trailer well. I’d have to try that out to be sure
Sandy you have a great set up there. Thanks for the tips. i built a baby barn to store my lumber in now the snow is coming i got nice clean lumber in it. Happy Holidays
That baby barn is a good plan .The snow sure does leave a mess all over the lumber
Over time the sawmill will allow tweaks to better adjust, dispose of waste, load logs, and stack lumber afterward without wrecking your back. Getting the Mill onto concrete and higher seems like a step in the right direction.
Think you’re absolutely right
Hello Sandy. I am far behind on the videos because of the holidays. Today is 2Jan23. You have certainly given yourself some food for thought. The additional post between your log deck would not work unless it was hydraulic and could be lowered to be able to clean up. The pad could be done in sections and mixed there on site being sure to have the rebar extending to the next section. You will figure it out if you feel the need to make changes. Have good days!
Hope you had some nice holidays! Welcome back and you’re right, lots to think about here
HI Sandy. I also started on concrete blocks etc. on the ground, I watched your channel and others and watched how everyone moved when running their mill. I decided that I wanted my mill ( which isn't on a trailer as its for personal use mostly and I dint want to move it) firmly attached to the ground. My mill is up on risers and is on a concrete pad the mill is bolted down to the concrete. My mill stays solid and straight, for a roof I opted to turn the roof so the snow sheds off the ends. the roof is constructed of trusses (site built with my own lumber) so its clear spam front and back. I was going to build the back wall close to the ground so the dust could still blow out the back, but I opted to only bring the wall down to my head height to allow better mobility. My slabs come off the end and are stacked off that end for processing. the saw dust goes out the back and into the woods, I have never had to clean any of the dust away, nature seems to take care of it. My wood comes off the front and is currently getting stacked in a covered ready rack. Logs are front loaded individually with a tractor. I'm sure we are practically neighbors, you are welcome to drop in and see my set up.
That would be a great idea Keith. Having it on a firm concrete pad would be ideal for me as well with a stationary setup like yours
You could do soil cement to firm up the location where you are parking your sawmill. Dig some clay soil and add for a little height and then till in Portland cement, vibrate it down flat, and wet it down. When dry you are done.
I like that idea. Always like new ideas like this. Thanks Brent
New equipment, new ideas.... There's always 20/20 hindsight in best laid plans, lol
A pole barn structure would probably be a good choice! Plan on making it bigger than what you THINK you may need, and a stone/slag base would be a good idea for keeping out of the muck and snow! Until you do that, couldn't you use slab wood, or less than perfect boards to use as a walkway when milling with the Woodlander setup?!
I could for sure. And you are right! I should always build bigger than what I think I need.
Great Video Sandy, good luck on your new design if you choose to go with a larger structure, stay safe.
Thanks TJ, not sure what the future holds yet but always thinking ahead
For getting your trailer on the platform you could make a ramp, then put a ball hitch on the front of the tractor.
Think pushing it up like you mentioned would work well Michael
Sweet setup, Sandy! The best part is it's all yours so you can do whatever you want! And you get all kinds of advice from viewers!
For sure. Lots of great ideas help me come up with a good plan
Im designing my own version of the Hill Billy Hideout so this information is vital to my own success. Advice taken and will be implemented. Im thinking about 'YouTubing' my milling adventure and if I do, I will be sure to link to your video so that you get all of the deserved recognition for this invaluable advice and knowledge sharing. Thanks Sandy!
Thank you Sandy, As someone that will be purchasing a sawmill this next year you have provided many good points to think about the sawmill yard layout. AS always appreciate and enjoy your videos. Have a safe and Happy New Year.
Happy New Year! And thanks for watching. Best of luck when you get your mill. You will love having it!
That's what I call a cold opening!!
Hahah
Hello Sandy I was watching the video of your cabin that you built on why you didn't have it on Foundation or with post and concrete and so forth so it won't move but gravity eventually will make it move I just suggest that you get rebar Stakes haven't pointed at the end so you can get them in the ground easier knock them in a couple feet and both them somehow to those 4x4 posts you have on the corners or wherever you can make a connection because it will slide one day this gravity will take its course but I know if you put steaks in like a tent a couple feet down as close to the house you can maybe put cable and put a bolt through the 4x4s that you can put the cable onto
Thanks for the idea. Sliding would be a bad thing for sure in my case
This year a friend purchased a band mill, totally manual, and since I have a "little" experience with others he asked me to help set it up. We got it set up solid and level on railroad ties. Then it became a one after another situation of solving problems. "What about this. What about that?" By the time you get your set up the way you want it you're going to be an expert. You can start a side hack "Sandy's sawmill consulting ".
Sure do learn some things along the way. Hopefully by time I’ve got it all figured out I will be able to shut my brain off so I don’t start thinking about new ideas haha
I hope to get my mill up and running next spring, not getting any younger, haha.
Cheers from Iron Rock, Nova Scotia.
Hi Robert! Keep me updated on the sawmill setup. Happy New Year
Move the lumber pile from where it is and install a winch at the far end,a ramp on the other end to winch the mill backward onto the platform.
Thank you for the info . But …..Very nice wood lot . Good job on silva-culturing.
Lots of good points to consider! Thanks for sharing your ups and downs of your setup! Keep on sawing Sandy! Happy new year and May 2023 be a better year! ✌🏼❤️🙏🏼
Thanks Mark! Happy New Year
Here in sc we have something called slag. Like crush n run but with steel slag. Hardens like concrete. I prefer driveway mix it’s easier to smooth out every year or so and gets pretty solid.
I may have to look into that. Thanks for the idea
Soil cement, gravel mixed with cement watered packed let dry. I purchased used metal roofing, my thought was pole barn. I have open space, it will hold my trailer mounted hm130max.log bunks plus area for milled lumber.
That would be a good setup right there
I have been doing the same thing with my chicken coop, really a 3 pen breeding shed. I thought a lot about it and the basic coop is great. But I have been busy tweaking it, as functional demands become apparent.
Hey, I put down some short 4x4 and put a few 1x10 on top the 4x4 for the walkway, a long side my mill trailer. And it works good, easy to move if I have to and is low cost put stone down too and it works good too. I need a roof over my trailer as there is not one. The slope of that future roof will go toward the front of the trailer or tung. Leaving sides open for loading log and being able to plow out with a straight shot. Get to long here. I hear every word your saying good ideas. 👍
Great idea with the walking platform . Think that would be simple enough for me to make and keep me out of the muck. Thanks!
Hi Sandy! My advice is to think about your plans for a while and don't rush. I am also a big fan of bringing people I respect into my confidence, pitching my plan, and seeing what constructive criticism I get back from them. You're a clever man, I know whatever you do, it is going to be functional.
Thanks Terry
Great Video. Very informative, Thank You, God Speed
Thanks for watching Markus!
Thanks Sandy for telling us how u put ur saw mill in it location.. happy new year..
Happy New Year Billy!
Hi Sandy
I've been watching your channel for a number of years and recall when you first set up your mill, I had the impression it was down a hill and in a small clearing, set up basically in a field.
I just purchased a Woodland 130max mill this spring and really am enjoying milling lumber for long desired projects and also just having the ability to have some lumber on hand without squeezing my cheeks at the price of costly boards sitting without a definite project in mind.
I really liked your walk around of your present mill shed. I just couldn't resist wanting to suggest that with a ramp and a trailer ball mounted on your tractor front bucket, you could drive your mill on trailer right up on the deck from the end of the old shed (HB02). Second suggestion extend roof over where old mill log bunks were, reinstall bunks but at height of new mill on trailer. I watched you build that floor and the added weight of trailer and the mill is no problem no concrete required.
I appreciate the ideas Bob and supporting the channel over the years. I know what ya mean about the cost savings with milling boards. Sure is a great thing!
Hope you and the family had a great holiday ..
Me myself, i would seriously consider redesigning the roof on the sawmill shed..
Lower the pitch then put a 10' identical addition where the old log deck sat..
Would gain alot of usable under roof space.. Heck.. add ramps on the new addition and just back right up inside from where your parked now..👍👍
Keep up the good work there brother...
Thanks for the well wishes! Also the ideas are much appreciated
you have a fork lift use it center the weight strap it turn it to where the dust shoots out back like the old one, if you need to move it simple enough to fork lift it, if your forks are not long enough build extentions, your creative enough do it, you end up with a deck, with a lot less building,
That would work. Only trouble I see is if the dust shoots into the lumber shed
You made a lot of really good points! I incorporated a lot of those thoughts in advance of planning my saw mill shed which I'm currently building. I actually gave you a shout out on my channel for "stealing" your ideas!
I appreciate the shout out. Always good to hear how your setup is coming along as well
I appreciate the experiences as I just got my mill set and will be working on a cover and getting some type of shed/storage.
Enjoy your mill and I’m sure you will come up with a great shelter that works best for you.
You could lay a gravel pad, form a 3" slab and pour the bags of concrete on top dry and spray water on it and bull float it. Put WWR in it unless you don't care if it cracks a little. I'd definately seal it.
That would certainly do the trick. Great idea there Michael!
Hi Sandy, just a thought if you can get crossties place them in the dirt area where your saw will be, level and pin them to the ground with long rebar put down a barrier (tarpaper or fiber mat) fill it with GAB (Crusher Run) or limestone pack it down (a little water helps) with a rented whacker packer machine and it will set pretty hard, can spread some portland cement as you are packing if you want it harder. should take care of the muddy condition without pouring concrete. Crossties help keep it in place and can run over with tractor about the cheapest way I know of Jla
That would be a pretty slick idea John. Thanks for the idea for the crossties
You could also use the winch to load long logs from the end instead of swinging them between your upright posts.
Good point Robert
What about leaving everything you have and gravel under where the mill is now? You could use crushed blacktop which compacts very well.
Also cut a drainage ditch so the water doesn't get to the mill. Or can you use your tractor with forks pick up the mill and set it on the raised area?
Good evening Sandy there all kind of idea that can come out that question but I believe you answer it yourself a pole barn with a raised ground level wider and as long as you wants placing it where you could be hading on the length later you don't really want concrete you are still young so not to bad yet but that hard surface is bad for your legs when you get older also that way if you want be extending your mill it would not be a problem have a great day and happy new year I wish you good health
You’re right about the concrete and being hard on the body. Happy New Year and thanks for your ongoing support here on the channel.
good one interesting
Thanks Cecil
🤔Hey there Mr.Sawing. When we load the ⛵️sailboat in the water we sometimes need an extension added to the trailer.About 8-10' As the keel makes a need to go into deeper water. If you added an extension to your saw trailer. You could maneuver the trailer to go underneath your overhang and up onto your platform so that the tractor 🚜does not have to drive on your platform...you may need to make longer ramp 🛣No biggie
I like that idea BJ. Thanks for that. Hope you have a good New Year!
@@sawingwithsandy
Happy New Years
Dig a trench/moat/ditch between your shed and the hill to direct the water away from the shed area.
You make the best videos!!!👍
Thank you!
Great video. Very helpful to someone who is planning their own set up
My question is do you have another area with stored lumber that is drying or do you use everything up shortly after cutting.
I’ve set up a drying area in my shop with five smaller stacks of lumber.
I’m typically using the wood just as I cut it
Good show thanks
Thanks! Hope your new year gets off to a great start
Your tractor with forks should be able to lift the mill and trailer on to the platform. Add fork pockets possibly.
Good Morning Sandy, How about this for your trailer. If you want a platform you already built one for storing your toys when you built the other building. I would just get some concrete forms ( Sono-tubes) and bury them 30" with 4-6" above ground (36" total) 12" diameter and then 3x some 2x6s (think 6x6) for where the drop legs and tractor tires would need support and then put boards on top and build a small ramp to move the trailer in and out. Mixing all that concrete even with a 1 yard mixer would be a lot of work, but if you did go with concrete you could put in radiant floor with a solar powered water pump and a burn barrel with a coil around it, to keep the floor warm while working in the cold (Think mini outdoor wood burning furnace). Once going even green wood burns well and now all your cut offs are cleaned as you go. Hope you are staying warm.
That sounds like a great idea. Radiant floor heat would be amazing.
@@sawingwithsandy I know you can weld. The idea would be to use two 55 gallon steel drums, cut about 2 inches out of one from top to bottom and weld it back together, then wrap it with copper pipe / coil from any home improvement store and then set that inside the other 55 gallon steel drum, weld a top on the separation of the drums with the spare / left over steel, cut some ports at the top and bottom to connect the radiant floor and water pump. I am sure you can figure out the rest.
I am in the planning stages. Everything you have said hits home. My plan has been to do a short building...now adjusting it to double. long and double wide. I do not have snow, but I do get rain and lots of it I am going to put in a wood floor deck space is 20 x 30 long. I want a weather proof end to store the saw head the tracks can be more open. So four feet of track and Doors the close to put it away. Being lazy I am going to have roller conveyor down the the dust side starting about a 1/3 up the track to roll the completed cut to the back 20 x 30 for stacking. too big?
Those roller conveyors seem like a great idea Russell. I appreciate you sharing your ideas for me. Will help me as I look ahead
Love your videos, very thorough. You are also the reason I bought a WM HM126. Haven't set it up yet, but looking forward in the spring. Got it with 2 extensions, so I can do the long stuff too.
Sounds like the percent setup Richard!
@@sawingwithsandy I wanted the HM130 but decided I would go with the 126 with the extensions for now. I don't remember did you bury your posts in the ground on your last shed? I couldn't tell in this video. I am debating whether to build a wood floor or just a shed with a dirt floor. But I am pretty sure I want to elevate the sawmill off the ground to save my back a little.
Lots of good thoughts. Im working thru how to set up my sawmill shed as well. Many things to consider... Unfortunately many needs or inconveniences are discovered after its already set up.
For sure. Hope the setup goes well for you
Been undecided on what kinda structure for my mill, so this was good info. Putting it up on a wooden deck is going to be a good deal for me. I'm 5'2" so lower to the ground is better. Curious what your plans are for you Hillbilly Hideout 2.0. Take care!✌☃️
Hey Jill! I think I’ll use it for lumber storage at this point unless I get an idea for better use of it.
Lots of great insight! Thanks! I better start eating those trees!
Thanks for coming along for the tour today
Great attitude Keep Rockin
Thanks Scott!
Hi Sandy , Concrete is good but expensive , you have the trees and the mill to saw it ,,, wouldn't be hard to make the floor strong enough to drive the tractor on it ,,,
Just watch this older video of yours and realize you truly have this miniatures sawmill assembly line figured out I have suggested a few things in your newer videos with watching this you really have the plan it's not the thought and ideals are there it's the do I have the cost to do what I need or want to as well as the lumber to do the job I personally like seeing your sawmill up on the wooden platform but here is something that I have done in the past for RV camping park's we use a decomposing granite it is similar to a class to base material for roads but it is organic we set up two parallel and level to one another like you would concrete formboards be skreet off of do you have a rototiller for your because the next step is you add Portland cement spread that a inch an half thick or better while it's lying on the ground on top of the DG material or something adequate to it rototill the Portland cement it into material you will use skreet it level soak it with water and let it set for a couple days I just saw and I don't know where but they actually have now dry concrete which I think is the basic of what we used to do back in the day
Hey Sean! Great to hear you've found these videos from a little while back. I appreciate all your help and tips. Great to have the view of others to help me get my setup dialled in