excellent video. This seems like a good time to replace the pistons and rings. ...and also send the heads out to be rebuilt. Can you get an over sized piston for this engine?
Perform a cylinder leak-down test in both cylinders (not in unison, of course). I suspect you'll want to clean the piston top and install new rings. Wash the Nikasil cylinder with hot soapy water and air dry followed by spreading one drop of motor oil around the cylinder wall. Install the cleaned piston and new rings from the bottom of the cylinder. Assemble and ride it hard reaching the rev-limiter as often as possible for 600 miles. Torque the heads, adjust valves and throttle bodies & enjoy.
i'm just wondering, if i have this kind of problem can i split the engine and replace the cylinder struts with long pass-bolts with the head been on the inside of the engine so i will never have to deal with this again
Chris, 2 questions. 1) Does the bottom of the cyl have a taper to allow compressing/slipping over the rings like a 2 smoke or do you have to use a ring compressor? 2) What the hell is with the ugly stains all over the swing arm, rear drive?
1) Ring Compressor 2) Fuel from the charcoal canister will stain the drive-line yellow. Throw the fucking canister away! Thanks for your questions, Chris
Hey Chris! I'm owner of1150Rs and she increased oil consumption.A we ago I discovered that in fact the mileage was reduced by previous owner.Now the bike has87000km.I don't know if is correct replace piston rings to renew old performances,or maybe is better change also piston,bearings ect.nickasil cilinder accept newer rings?During last spring I replaced also chain tensioner with a better fromUK. What can I do?Maybe I have to measure internal pressure with hot engine? Thank you very much!
Hey Chris, I got a 95 R1100GS with a slow oil leak coming from the base of the right cylinder (as shown in your videos). Specifically, it looks to come from the front of the jug closer to the top head stud. What do you think the odds are that it may just be a bad gasket and not failed threads (from your experience)? I'm not familiar with the bikes service history other than what I have done. The bike has 75,000 miles on it and was leaking oil from that spot when I purchased the bike, however it looks like its getting a little worse. Thanks for your input in advance.
?? Time-Sert is a 10mm i believe - trying to find out what length(if there are diff lengths and different types for different materials(into alum heads vs a steel). I have a new to me 01 1150gs with the exact issue shown in this series.... Researching if I can buy (or find a place to "rent" the time-Sert tool and buy the insert i will need..
The boxer is a great machine but i don't like the bobines just before the sparkplugs,i had problems with that,the rubber came off. :-( ...and it got stuck in the cilinderhead. Greets from Belgium.
If the cylinder head was removed the 4 studs get 20 nm followed by 90 degrees to each of the 4 studs then an additional 90 degrees to each stud. The M10 Allen gets 40 nm. The only time other than reassembly is after 600 mile / 1000 km service where the 4 studs get 20 nm each then each of the 4 nuts are turned 180 degrees at once instead of 90 and 90 as before. Again the M10 gets 40 nm torque.
excellent video. This seems like a good time to replace the pistons and rings. ...and also send the heads out to be rebuilt. Can you get an over sized piston for this engine?
Perform a cylinder leak-down test in both cylinders (not in unison, of course). I suspect you'll want to clean the piston top and install new rings. Wash the Nikasil cylinder with hot soapy water and air dry followed by spreading one drop of motor oil around the cylinder wall. Install the cleaned piston and new rings from the bottom of the cylinder. Assemble and ride it hard reaching the rev-limiter as often as possible for 600 miles. Torque the heads, adjust valves and throttle bodies & enjoy.
i'm just wondering, if i have this kind of problem can i split the engine and replace the cylinder struts with long pass-bolts with the head been on the inside of the engine so i will never have to deal with this again
Chris, 2 questions.
1) Does the bottom of the cyl have a taper to allow compressing/slipping over the rings like a 2 smoke or do you have to use a ring compressor?
2) What the hell is with the ugly stains all over the swing arm, rear drive?
1) Ring Compressor
2) Fuel from the charcoal canister will stain the drive-line yellow. Throw the fucking canister away!
Thanks for your questions, Chris
Hey Chris!
I'm owner of1150Rs and she increased oil consumption.A we ago I discovered that in fact the mileage was reduced by previous owner.Now the bike has87000km.I don't know if is correct replace piston rings to renew old performances,or maybe is better change also piston,bearings ect.nickasil cilinder accept newer rings?During last spring I replaced also chain tensioner with a better fromUK.
What can I do?Maybe I have to measure internal pressure with hot engine?
Thank you very much!
Hey Chris,
I got a 95 R1100GS with a slow oil leak coming from the base of the right cylinder (as shown in your videos). Specifically, it looks to come from the front of the jug closer to the top head stud. What do you think the odds are that it may just be a bad gasket and not failed threads (from your experience)? I'm not familiar with the bikes service history other than what I have done. The bike has 75,000 miles on it and was leaking oil from that spot when I purchased the bike, however it looks like its getting a little worse. Thanks for your input in advance.
Hi Chris is it possible to take off both cylinders at the same time?
yup! :-)
Is it a big problem if i leave it like this for a while and is gonna do damage for the engine??
Stuff the holes with clean oiled rags to keep dust and moisture out. Good luck.
?? Time-Sert is a 10mm i believe - trying to find out what length(if there are diff lengths and different types for different materials(into alum heads vs a steel). I have a new to me 01 1150gs with the exact issue shown in this series.... Researching if I can buy (or find a place to "rent" the time-Sert tool and buy the insert i will need..
Eric, a Keen-Sert would be much better. Good luck, Chris
What's the size and length of the time set used in the video?
The boxer is a great machine but i don't like the bobines just before the sparkplugs,i had problems with that,the rubber came off. :-( ...and it got stuck in the cilinderhead. Greets from Belgium.
Just curious, Why not use red loctite to lock the timesert to block?
It won't hold the stud.
thanks
What was the size and length of the set used in this video?
The cylinder stud is M 10. Perhaps 15 MM length? Good luck, Chris
@@ChrisR.Harris thanks a bunch! Ur videos have been a big help in my project. Hope to see more in the future keep up the good wek
@@chevrolac91 Most of my new material goes to my Patreon channel: www.patreon.com/user?u=25101320
Rather watch it unedited just incase you run into "real life" problems. Never owned a boxer, but im liking the r1100s
Hi there!
someone could please tell me how many NM has to be tightened those long cylinder screws?
Thanks!
If the cylinder head was removed the 4 studs get 20 nm followed by 90 degrees to each of the 4 studs then an additional 90 degrees to each stud. The M10 Allen gets 40 nm. The only time other than reassembly is after 600 mile / 1000 km service where the 4 studs get 20 nm each then each of the 4 nuts are turned 180 degrees at once instead of 90 and 90 as before. Again the M10 gets 40 nm torque.
My thumb got in the way of a rear sprocket on a Honda CB360 back in 1980 :)
ouch...
I like your vids.. i don't own a Bmer ... just like mechanical workings ..
BTW WTF is up with your right thumb???
The stud won’t be straight drilling by hand and the bore of the engine isn’t plugged to keep out debris. No thanks.
Nice!