I have just bought a 1974 R60/6. it does/did run when I bought it ......and I bought it knowing I would need restore it...yaaa a adventure lol I so love these bikes and this is my first classic......I do have a 2015 R1200 GSA so not deprived of riding lol....... hope you didn't mind me sharing. Phil
1980R100RS has new cylinders and pistons(from TC, installed by me) and I've adjusted valves. Should I do what you demonstrate here, to show oil is indeed flowing to the rockers? You are the only one to explain this, that I've seen. I've followed your video on conrod bearings too.
Hi John, I try to be a "belt and suspenders" guy when it comes to engine work. No oil flow means no engine. This is a simple test to verify there are no obstructions in the oil system and it takes only a couple minutes. It also primes the oil system filling all the passages with oil. When you do your first engine start, there is less opportunity for any unlubricated parts to damage each other.
thank you again for sharing ......I have a question sir, does all the studs have oil to them like the top right one, please and thank you.. love these education vids
Only the top tow cylinder stud holes provide oil flow to lubricate the rocker assemblies. Don't forget to click the link in the video summary to go to my web site document with all the details of how I do the work. Best of success on you project Phil. It's good to know another one of these motorcycles will get back on the road. 🙂
Hello, I got my main crankshaft bearings changed by a specialist. However, since then, i haven't got any oil reaching the heads. The "specialist" told me that cranking the egine wasn't enough to get proper oil pressure and told me to run it a 2-3 minutes and go up in the rpm's to get high oil pressure. Still nothing. Hope i didn't dammage anything running it 3 minutes with out proper lubrification (mostly worried about the lifters and camshaft). Really disapointed by that so called specialist that cost me an arm and a leg... any advice? (started removing the front bearing to check if the lubrfication holes were drilled...)
Sadly your mechanic was completely wrong about how to test for oil flow to the rocker assembly. If the main bearing hole was not drilled or isn’t aligned, running engine can damage those bearings and possibly other parts :-(
Here is the link to the complete write-up about how I repaired the stripped cylinder stud threads in the engine bloc. brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcyle-rebuilds/1973-bmw-r755-rebuild-project/11-bmw-r75-5-repair-stripped-cylinder-stud-threads/
RiDZ, for many climates, 20W-50 is recommended. In cold climates 10W-40 maybe more appropriate. The owner's manual provides a chart with recommended oil vs. temperatures.
Thanks for taking time to create and post this. I just did the same repair and want to make sure I'm getting oil to the rockers. If I leave the rockers bolted on, where should I look for oil?
Leave the rockers off so it's easy to confirm oil is flowing out of the top studs. If you leave them on, you should see oil weeping out of the top and bottom pillow blocks, but it may take some time to see that.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage roger that. Both cylinders on my 78’ R100s only have oil coming from the Intake side of the too studs…so both rocker arms aren’t getting as much oil as the intake valves. The only thing I can think is that the cylinder was sales with RTV. Is there anything I should check for outside of that?
@@joshuapeters2764 Too much sealant or a rubber O-ring that is plugging the oil passage around the top cylinder studs could be a cause. It's also possible something is plugging the hole in the cylinders that the studs are inside of. In any event, removing the heads and cylinders seems in order to find out what is obstructing oil flow.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage I took both cylinders off and there was lots of red RTV I cleaned both the head and the block with mineral spirits and got the RTV off. I watched your other video where you use the 1207B sealant. I ordered that and the cylinder stud o rings and the large cylinder base o ring. There was a metal gasket at the base of the Cylinder that I was told the R100S does not use. So I tossed that. I put the engine back together and I still do t have oil flowing from the LH exhaust rocker arm, the rest of the rocker arms flow oil like crazy….any idea what I should check for now?
Omri617, I've never worked on them. The push rod tubes are on top of the cylinders instead of on the bottom as the cam was above the crankshaft on that engine. The design of that head would have to provide an oil return path to the crankcase, but couldn't use the push rod tubes for that purpose. If you are going to work on these early post-war bikes, you should invest in the manuals available from Barrington Motor Works. They are acknowledged as the best resource available. --> www.barringtonmotorworks.com/products
Hello Brook, i am doing a first engine start test on my 1988 r100rt . Three of the rockeratms are pumping oil but 1 dosent. I have cranked the engine more than 10 times 5sec burst. Do you know what i shud be looking at? And why only 1 rocker arm is not pumping oil?
I have just bought a 1974 R60/6. it does/did run when I bought it ......and I bought it knowing I would need restore it...yaaa a adventure lol I so love these bikes and this is my first classic......I do have a 2015 R1200 GSA so not deprived of riding lol....... hope you didn't mind me sharing. Phil
Thank you for all videos Mr.Brooks
Just want to thank you for what you've been posting.
It should be a great help to both novice and veteran wrench/riders.
You're welcome Jay.
A big thank you from me Brook because I have enjoyed every one of your Tutorials.
Always excellent information. Thanks agan.
You're welcome CS Park.
Thank you for your thoughtful videos that are very informative.
You're welcome Trent. "Keep Em Flying" and stay well.
1980R100RS has new cylinders and pistons(from TC, installed by me) and I've adjusted valves. Should I do what you demonstrate here, to show oil is indeed flowing to the rockers? You are the only one to explain this, that I've seen. I've followed your video on conrod bearings too.
Hi John, I try to be a "belt and suspenders" guy when it comes to engine work. No oil flow means no engine. This is a simple test to verify there are no obstructions in the oil system and it takes only a couple minutes. It also primes the oil system filling all the passages with oil. When you do your first engine start, there is less opportunity for any unlubricated parts to damage each other.
thank you again for sharing ......I have a question sir, does all the studs have oil to them like the top right one, please and thank you.. love these education vids
Only the top tow cylinder stud holes provide oil flow to lubricate the rocker assemblies. Don't forget to click the link in the video summary to go to my web site document with all the details of how I do the work.
Best of success on you project Phil. It's good to know another one of these motorcycles will get back on the road. 🙂
Hello,
I got my main crankshaft bearings changed by a specialist. However, since then, i haven't got any oil reaching the heads. The "specialist" told me that cranking the egine wasn't enough to get proper oil pressure and told me to run it a 2-3 minutes and go up in the rpm's to get high oil pressure. Still nothing. Hope i didn't dammage anything running it 3 minutes with out proper lubrification (mostly worried about the lifters and camshaft).
Really disapointed by that so called specialist that cost me an arm and a leg...
any advice? (started removing the front bearing to check if the lubrfication holes were drilled...)
Sadly your mechanic was completely wrong about how to test for oil flow to the rocker assembly. If the main bearing hole was not drilled or isn’t aligned, running engine can damage those bearings and possibly other parts :-(
Here is the link to the complete write-up about how I repaired the stripped cylinder stud threads in the engine bloc.
brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcyle-rebuilds/1973-bmw-r755-rebuild-project/11-bmw-r75-5-repair-stripped-cylinder-stud-threads/
Please i want to see if it is normal to put oil 10-40 (BMW r80 1990) or its necessary to put 20-50?
(Sorry for my bad english)
RiDZ, for many climates, 20W-50 is recommended. In cold climates 10W-40 maybe more appropriate. The owner's manual provides a chart with recommended oil vs. temperatures.
Thanks for taking time to create and post this. I just did the same repair and want to make sure I'm getting oil to the rockers. If I leave the rockers bolted on, where should I look for oil?
Leave the rockers off so it's easy to confirm oil is flowing out of the top studs. If you leave them on, you should see oil weeping out of the top and bottom pillow blocks, but it may take some time to see that.
Does it just come from the intake stud? Or does it also come out the exhaust?
Joshua, both top studs have oil passages so the intake and exhaust rocker assemblies get lubricated.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage roger that. Both cylinders on my 78’ R100s only have oil coming from the Intake side of the too studs…so both rocker arms aren’t getting as much oil as the intake valves. The only thing I can think is that the cylinder was sales with RTV. Is there anything I should check for outside of that?
@@joshuapeters2764 Too much sealant or a rubber O-ring that is plugging the oil passage around the top cylinder studs could be a cause. It's also possible something is plugging the hole in the cylinders that the studs are inside of. In any event, removing the heads and cylinders seems in order to find out what is obstructing oil flow.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage thank you!!
@@BrooksAirheadGarage I took both cylinders off and there was lots of red RTV I cleaned both the head and the block with mineral spirits and got the RTV off. I watched your other video where you use the 1207B sealant. I ordered that and the cylinder stud o rings and the large cylinder base o ring. There was a metal gasket at the base of the Cylinder that I was told the R100S does not use. So I tossed that. I put the engine back together and I still do t have oil flowing from the LH exhaust rocker arm, the rest of the rocker arms flow oil like crazy….any idea what I should check for now?
Do you know if it’s the same in earlier bikes? R51/3
Omri617, I've never worked on them. The push rod tubes are on top of the cylinders instead of on the bottom as the cam was above the crankshaft on that engine. The design of that head would have to provide an oil return path to the crankcase, but couldn't use the push rod tubes for that purpose.
If you are going to work on these early post-war bikes, you should invest in the manuals available from Barrington Motor Works. They are acknowledged as the best resource available.
--> www.barringtonmotorworks.com/products
Hello Brook, i am doing a first engine start test on my 1988 r100rt . Three of the rockeratms are pumping oil but 1 dosent. I have cranked the engine more than 10 times 5sec burst. Do you know what i shud be looking at? And why only 1 rocker arm is not pumping oil?