Ok great lesson, MY diesel was totally rebuilt but this morning I got a sudden knock wasnt sure what then oil pressure light, pulled over and listened, shut it down, after a few min tried again very hard start but started same thing very loud hammering, shut off towed home so I guess nothing more than dump the oil and check for metal, it is a well maintained engine, so but sudden failure can occur of course, hoping its not a main bearing its my daily but am planning for the worse
This was great. I am thinking of buying a 2023 VW Atlas crossover. It’s pre owned, 18 k miles but i read that vw may be recalling some of these due to an engine rod bearing issue that can cause severe motor damage. Why would they only be recalling some of them and not all of them? And how can I know if they have already done the work? Or more importantly if there is a problem with them. How can I figure that out with the dealer before buying it. Any help or advice is appreciated
Bad bearing make a random light rattle- like sound? Doesn't really keep pace with the motor. Engine runs great, but found some fine metal flakes in last engine oil change. 200k in a gm 6.2 and change oil about every 3 months. Particles appear to be slightly magnetic. Anything I should take a look at?
And gets better after the engine warms up? Or How about what side is coming from or front to back or up or low in the engine Could it be outside the engine still? Have you removed the belt to test if its pulley or accessories!? I mean flakes in the oil sounds about right though..
Engine running fine after about a year, but with slightly less oil pressure from 25 to 20 at idle. No more flakes in the engine oil either, but got another engine now to build and swap out eventually. Engine sounds normal currently, but believe I had wear and tear somewhere.
I have a rebuilt Chevy 305 with only 1200 miles on it, and it starts knocking at idle at EXACTLY 180 degrees. Any temp lower than that it's extremely quiet running. Why????????
Where is the video on changing the rod bearing? I have an 83 Alfa GTV6 with this noise (150k miles) ... should I just rebuild the engine? Who is a reputable S California shop to mil the block and head?
Question 🙋🏽♀️ I have a 2019 Acura MDX, there is a recall for connecting rod bearing. Lately the car looses power on its own (Not while driving) I can drive it fine no noise but then when I turn the SUV off it does not always want to turn back on. I have to jump start it for it to turn back on. Is this caused by the connecting rod bearing issue? There are no engine lights on or battery light on.
I have no metal in my oil, no loss of oil pressure, no loss of power, no misfire codes, smooth idle...I've been told I spun a bearing. Can this be possible without any symptoms other than a knock from the lower end? I thought flexplate, but it's looking like it's fine. I'm hoping it might be the TC but? I'm about to pull the transmission back but I'm hesitant to do so for fear I may not get it back in right. Not having the right tool for the job sucks.
My engine knocks when hot at idle, and again at 2000rpm. But not above 2k and not at low idle when fan kicks on. Not muh under load either. And it comes and goes. Wondering if it is timing related.
It's early stages of knock. When the engine is warm the metal expands giving extra clearance, 2k rpm is generally a harmonic rpm range that you'll hear the knock at when warm. I had the same issue, sounded like it came from the head but it was just the piston ever so slightly tapping the head due to the piston clearance. I checked it by holding rpm at the knocking point and unplugging injectors 1 by 1 to check each cylinder. So unplug cyl 1 and if knock maintains. Plug it back in and do the same with cyl 2. And so on and so forth. The knock should go away when unplugged because the fuel igniting in that cylinder slams the piston back down creating the knock. No combustion=no added force. Only works with slight knocks. That's how I found out it was my bearing and not the head. I've replaced the bearing making sure to only use 1000 grit sandpaper soaked in wd40 when sanding down the crank as you only want to polish it not remove material. Only issue I have is because of the slight added tolerance my oil light flashes on start up because the more clearance in the bearings equates to less pressure as more oil escapes that rod bearing, taking pressure from the other rods momentarily until pressure fully builds
@@DevTechGarage Nice. Might get around to that. At least for the sake of being informed. Thank. I threw in mobil 1 high mileage full synthetic 10w40 with a 3oz per qt motorkote and she purrs almost like new *sometimes even when hot idle where before she was knocking all the time. Great combo I highly suggest that for you. When the knock is there it sounds pretty bad but really sounds great while driving. Also running the ac seems to make the knock go away at times and quiet it down others but always helps.
@@TonicofSonic any sort of thicker oil additive like Lucas oil treatment of marvel mystery oil will help mitigate the sound. As for the AC, when the compressor kicks on it adds load to the engine, and the compressor isn't always on even with your AC engaged it runs in cycles. So that would account for why it sounds better sometimes vs others. When the ecu detects extra load it will adjust the air fuel ratio to either add fuel or remove some depending on the situation which will also effect the sound as decreased fuel will take load off the piston during combustion where increased fuel will add load, making the knock more pronounced.
@@TonicofSonic what type of vehicle is it? If it's something like a Honda civic, rod bearings can be changed by removing the exhaust(for clearance when removing oil pan), remove oil pan, remove oil sump and girdle and rods are right there. You can try to move the rods up and down and if there's any up and down movement then it's bearing. However when when I did mine that was having your exact issue, I felt not movement at all(since engine wasnt hot) But when I pulled the rod cap the bearing was super worn. I polished the crank and replaced all rod bearings and main bearings and been driving it ever since. I'm in the process of replacing bearings on a 99 civic turbo as we speak
@@DevTechGarage Lucas did not help. I gave it several chances. The engine was quieter with straight Wal-Mart high mileage full synthetic 5w 30 than with lucas added. I used lucas high mileage version. Never tried the synthetic. Anyway no more lucas for me... 10w 40 HM full synthetic MOBIL 1 is better than a 5w 30 with Lucas. But..I might try full synthetic lucas with this mobil 1 just for kicks. Kinda planning on letting it go... engine has 200k and piston slap too. Used to burn oil. Rings are probably shot somewhere. Runs like a champ. Idles smooth as butter. Power is good. I dunno I hate the idea of putting money into this old engine. Might find time next summer to take off timing cover and oil pan for a refresh.
Basic info, i have a 2005 Scion tC with 125k miles. Would this be a spun rod bearing? I have a top engine rattle noise on the opposite side of my timing chain(i believe its cylinder 4) only at or after 2k RPM and basically everytime between gear shifts? I have major rattle noise, not this knocking noise. Also ive gone probably 5k miles with this but i dont have any engine performance issues. No check engine light. No oil light, just this noise that definitely has gotten louder and no its not a loose heat shield or anything like that. Its clearly coming from right under or near my valve cover. Also if it matters, my valve cover gasket was replace at 114k miles prior to the purchase of the vehicle, and the spark plugs have been replaced with OEM parts. Any idea of what's wrong would be helpful.
Possibly but the rod journal where the bearing spun will have started wearing. At this point the likelihood of a reoccurrence will be elevated until the crank is properly machined or replaced. Minor wear can be polished at home. But if you find the knock is back after only a few hundred miles, chances are it's impossible for you to do anything about it.
Hi my name is Jeffrey Amu and I'm from PAPUA NEW GUINEA.. I have a Howo truck prime mover model 371.. 2 months ago my truck got a knocking noise and I towered the truck home and I drained out all the engine oil and I removed the engine oil samp and find out that the Conrod Bering number 4 was loosen and it makes the knock noise so I removed it and also I removed all 12 Conrod Bering and replaced it with 12 New Conrod berings and closed it up I than poured the oil in and started the engine and when the engine was running in ideal it makes a smoll knocking noise again so now I'm confused what makes that smoll knocking noise... I'm not a Mechanic but I always watch your UA-cam mechanical channel so I'm trying to get the truck fixed by my self so please can you help me by advising me how to get my truck fixed
Nah I could do it on a weekend taking time with it Easy easy Other than having to lay down on a rolling bed and holding my arms up a while Oh and staying organized Sheeesh Id do it for probably 500$ Yeah?
I can change a rod bearing, I can’t un-die when autopilot sends me into oncoming traffic and I burn to death while the battery explodes because the door handles are stuck
Thank you for this informative, simple, easy to understand video.
Excellent video. Great explanation and examples. Thank you sir!
Ok great lesson, MY diesel was totally rebuilt but this morning I got a sudden knock wasnt sure what then oil pressure light, pulled over and listened, shut it down, after a few min tried again very hard start but started same thing very loud hammering, shut off towed home so I guess nothing more than dump the oil and check for metal, it is a well maintained engine, so but sudden failure can occur of course, hoping its not a main bearing its my daily but am planning for the worse
Did you figure it out I'm having the same exact issue with a gas motor and was planning a big trip in a month and really don't want to cancel
That was an awesome video, I learned a lot! Thank you, I am looking to buy a used Acura with a rod bearing recall and now I understand what it is.
Very good explanation❤
Very clear--thank you!
My car Mitsubishi pajero knock noise.. I guess it rod bearing.. If want to fixed, its need to general overhaul or just open from bottom?
Salamat
This was great. I am thinking of buying a 2023 VW Atlas crossover. It’s pre owned, 18 k miles but i read that vw may be recalling some of these due to an engine rod bearing issue that can cause severe motor damage. Why would they only be recalling some of them and not all of them? And how can I know if they have already done the work? Or more importantly if there is a problem with them. How can I figure that out with the dealer before buying it. Any help or advice is appreciated
I just spun a bearing fked it up pretty bad. I bought a bearing an some sandpaper I'll let ya know how it goes
Damn that bad huh 😢
How did it go
Soo how’d it go?
@LukeplaysTV not to great only lasted 544 miles before the rod went to space
@txicness434 not great 544 miles threw a rod
Great video. Thanks for making it.
2018 challenger makes the ticking sound but like after it has warmed up, like 15 min after you start/drive the car
Bad bearing make a random light rattle- like sound? Doesn't really keep pace with the motor. Engine runs great, but found some fine metal flakes in last engine oil change. 200k in a gm 6.2 and change oil about every 3 months. Particles appear to be slightly magnetic. Anything I should take a look at?
The engine
And gets better after the engine warms up?
Or
How about what side is coming from or front to back or up or low in the engine
Could it be outside the engine still?
Have you removed the belt to test if its pulley or accessories!?
I mean flakes in the oil sounds about right though..
Engine running fine after about a year, but with slightly less oil pressure from 25 to 20 at idle. No more flakes in the engine oil either, but got another engine now to build and swap out eventually. Engine sounds normal currently, but believe I had wear and tear somewhere.
Awesome video, thank you very much!
I just spun a bearing and didnt drive it a lot. We took the engine apart one bearing spun. Should you replace the connecting rod also???
Yes
I have a rebuilt Chevy 305 with only 1200 miles on it, and it starts knocking at idle at EXACTLY 180 degrees. Any temp lower than that it's extremely quiet running. Why????????
You can actually change your rod bearings without pulling or taking out the crankshaft.
Where is the video on changing the rod bearing? I have an 83 Alfa GTV6 with this noise (150k miles) ... should I just rebuild the engine? Who is a reputable S California shop to mil the block and head?
Ugh my 2003 Toyota matrix is making a knocking sound….😢
Question 🙋🏽♀️ I have a 2019 Acura MDX, there is a recall for connecting rod bearing. Lately the car looses power on its own (Not while driving) I can drive it fine no noise but then when I turn the SUV off it does not always want to turn back on. I have to jump start it for it to turn back on. Is this caused by the connecting rod bearing issue? There are no engine lights on or battery light on.
Check the voltage of your battery and have your starter tested. This doesn’t sound like a rod bearing issue.
Change your oil on time. Or change motors if you can afford to...
my 2006 Jeep Grand laredo brought me here. really bad knock last night and shop says I need a new motor.
It's worth a trying to replace rod bearing are not that expensive
I have no metal in my oil, no loss of oil pressure, no loss of power, no misfire codes, smooth idle...I've been told I spun a bearing. Can this be possible without any symptoms other than a knock from the lower end?
I thought flexplate, but it's looking like it's fine. I'm hoping it might be the TC but? I'm about to pull the transmission back but I'm hesitant to do so for fear I may not get it back in right. Not having the right tool for the job sucks.
Did you ever figure it out? I have the exact same thing going on.
@@andrewhutson8299 yes and I don't like it. Spun bearing. Crazy how I had no other symptoms
Im going through the same issue right now on a 07 Kia
My engine knocks when hot at idle, and again at 2000rpm. But not above 2k and not at low idle when fan kicks on. Not muh under load either. And it comes and goes. Wondering if it is timing related.
It's early stages of knock. When the engine is warm the metal expands giving extra clearance, 2k rpm is generally a harmonic rpm range that you'll hear the knock at when warm. I had the same issue, sounded like it came from the head but it was just the piston ever so slightly tapping the head due to the piston clearance. I checked it by holding rpm at the knocking point and unplugging injectors 1 by 1 to check each cylinder. So unplug cyl 1 and if knock maintains. Plug it back in and do the same with cyl 2. And so on and so forth. The knock should go away when unplugged because the fuel igniting in that cylinder slams the piston back down creating the knock. No combustion=no added force. Only works with slight knocks. That's how I found out it was my bearing and not the head. I've replaced the bearing making sure to only use 1000 grit sandpaper soaked in wd40 when sanding down the crank as you only want to polish it not remove material. Only issue I have is because of the slight added tolerance my oil light flashes on start up because the more clearance in the bearings equates to less pressure as more oil escapes that rod bearing, taking pressure from the other rods momentarily until pressure fully builds
@@DevTechGarage Nice. Might get around to that. At least for the sake of being informed.
Thank.
I threw in mobil 1 high mileage full synthetic 10w40 with a 3oz per qt motorkote and she purrs almost like new *sometimes even when hot idle where before she was knocking all the time. Great combo I highly suggest that for you.
When the knock is there it sounds pretty bad but really sounds great while driving.
Also running the ac seems to make the knock go away at times and quiet it down others but always helps.
@@TonicofSonic any sort of thicker oil additive like Lucas oil treatment of marvel mystery oil will help mitigate the sound. As for the AC, when the compressor kicks on it adds load to the engine, and the compressor isn't always on even with your AC engaged it runs in cycles. So that would account for why it sounds better sometimes vs others. When the ecu detects extra load it will adjust the air fuel ratio to either add fuel or remove some depending on the situation which will also effect the sound as decreased fuel will take load off the piston during combustion where increased fuel will add load, making the knock more pronounced.
@@TonicofSonic what type of vehicle is it? If it's something like a Honda civic, rod bearings can be changed by removing the exhaust(for clearance when removing oil pan), remove oil pan, remove oil sump and girdle and rods are right there. You can try to move the rods up and down and if there's any up and down movement then it's bearing. However when when I did mine that was having your exact issue, I felt not movement at all(since engine wasnt hot) But when I pulled the rod cap the bearing was super worn. I polished the crank and replaced all rod bearings and main bearings and been driving it ever since. I'm in the process of replacing bearings on a 99 civic turbo as we speak
@@DevTechGarage Lucas did not help. I gave it several chances. The engine was quieter with straight Wal-Mart high mileage full synthetic 5w 30 than with lucas added.
I used lucas high mileage version.
Never tried the synthetic.
Anyway no more lucas for me... 10w 40 HM full synthetic MOBIL 1 is better than a 5w 30 with Lucas. But..I might try full synthetic lucas with this mobil 1 just for kicks.
Kinda planning on letting it go... engine has 200k and piston slap too. Used to burn oil. Rings are probably shot somewhere.
Runs like a champ. Idles smooth as butter. Power is good. I dunno I hate the idea of putting money into this old engine. Might find time next summer to take off timing cover and oil pan for a refresh.
Basic info, i have a 2005 Scion tC with 125k miles. Would this be a spun rod bearing? I have a top engine rattle noise on the opposite side of my timing chain(i believe its cylinder 4) only at or after 2k RPM and basically everytime between gear shifts? I have major rattle noise, not this knocking noise. Also ive gone probably 5k miles with this but i dont have any engine performance issues. No check engine light. No oil light, just this noise that definitely has gotten louder and no its not a loose heat shield or anything like that. Its clearly coming from right under or near my valve cover. Also if it matters, my valve cover gasket was replace at 114k miles prior to the purchase of the vehicle, and the spark plugs have been replaced with OEM parts. Any idea of what's wrong would be helpful.
Have you checked lifters? May need to be readjusted.
If it spun a bearing and seized in the dangerous stage
Can it still be saved? Still starts and drives.
Possibly but the rod journal where the bearing spun will have started wearing.
At this point the likelihood of a reoccurrence will be elevated until the crank is properly machined or replaced.
Minor wear can be polished at home. But if you find the knock is back after only a few hundred miles, chances are it's impossible for you to do anything about it.
Hi my name is Jeffrey Amu and I'm from PAPUA NEW GUINEA.. I have a Howo truck prime mover model 371.. 2 months ago my truck got a knocking noise and I towered the truck home and I drained out all the engine oil and I removed the engine oil samp and find out that the Conrod Bering number 4 was loosen and it makes the knock noise so I removed it and also I removed all 12 Conrod Bering and replaced it with 12 New Conrod berings and closed it up I than poured the oil in and started the engine and when the engine was running in ideal it makes a smoll knocking noise again so now I'm confused what makes that smoll knocking noise... I'm not a Mechanic but I always watch your UA-cam mechanical channel so I'm trying to get the truck fixed by my self so please can you help me by advising me how to get my truck fixed
Hello, try to check first your injectors, sometimes failed injectors cause that sound.
Whats the fix ?
Can I relocate my nock sencers on toyota avalon two thousand and three
The knock sensosr are located underneath the Intake manifold. One on each bank.
audio problems made this video difficult to understand otherwise good info
What about my car there's a knock sound when i step on accelerator only?
Single knock=check engine mount. Consistent knock= possible bad main or rod bearings.
Can a rod bearing cause timing chain to fail or vice versa? This happened to be I heard knocking & I also heard the timing chain
Coolant spilled on the belt
Cheapest thing is to buy a new engine.
That’s the problem with society now. Everything is just throw away and replace. Idk, call me a dinosaur 😂 have a great day!
Not always. Rod bearing could be done in car for like 2k.
Rod bearings 35 bucks. Engine 3500 wtf you mean lol
Nah
I could do it on a weekend taking time with it
Easy easy
Other than having to lay down on a rolling bed and holding my arms up a while
Oh and staying organized
Sheeesh
Id do it for probably 500$
Yeah?
Cheapest thing if u have lots of money
we are 20 years professional engine parts OEM manufacturer .
Time to buy a tesla
I can change a rod bearing, I can’t un-die when autopilot sends me into oncoming traffic and I burn to death while the battery explodes because the door handles are stuck