I hope you waited to read these comments before pouring the other footings. That said, it's videos like this that teach others how to do it right, so thank you for posting, and I'm sure for a pergola these will be just fine.
Nice job but plenty of good comments for others to follow to avoid your mistakes. Should have gravel at bottom of hole and add some concrete before sticking your center rebar. You don’t want rebar in the dirt cause it will rust. Should be fully encased in cement. Definitely don’t pay extra for dry set concrete if you’re going to mix it anyway, plus it needed more water. A couple of support rebars would be good. You have to poke the cement with the rebar as you add cement. What you did at the end did nothing because you didn’t get more than a 1/4 of the way through the tube. The concrete further down is full of air pockets which means your rebar will rust as water seeps in. Other than that, you’re good.
Appreciate the video, which is helpful. A few tips: 1. When you initially dig the hole you should avoid disturbing the surrounding soil. A hole manual post digger or an auger would help with this. 2. I agree the normal concrete mix would also work best for this application since it has greater strength even though curing takes longer.
Since you used a wheelbarrow to mix the concreate you could have just used regular bagged concreate (which is less expensive) It's much easier to work with and you have more time more time to work with it . "Regular" Concrete mix (of the correct grade) when used in footings/foundations, will also provided a more structurally stronger result. Like others have pointed out, you really need to spend more time making sure there where no air gapes in the mix by the use of a piece of steel rod etc, and then "tramp" it down more at the half filled point. But hey! it was your first go and good on-ya for giving it a go!
There are a lot of videos against "wet setting" anchor bolts. In this case, the concrete mix is too dry and did not flow to close around the anchor bolt. The resulting void will fill with water and may lead to premature failure of the concrete.
@johnraviella6561 if you work with this concrete on a regular basis you don't need an engineer to tell you. The correct method is pouring the mix into the form and then add water. It settles and closes voids. The concrete begins to harden in less than 10 mins and is unworkable in 15. At 20 mins its over. If you aren't done by then you're screwed. The instructions on the bag says pour the mix in the form or hole. They make the stuff so what do they know anyway
This was SO HELPFUL! Thank you! I have no idea what most of this stuff is but I will be able to google all the names of the stuff you used to help me get a better understanding. On to the next video!
Just my thoughts. I would have drawn the strings and keep them during the process. So you get the 90 angel on the middle one and also get the ancar bolts in line.
nice job on the footings, if it was me i would maybe have dug a 2 ft hole and dumped a few bags of concrete in and smoothed out the top. or just built it on a concrete block sitting on the grass. well done on what you did
And you pray that no one will step accidentally over the anchor bolt :D But in general i would add more water to the mixture. It looks too dry. Additionally using a longer anchor bold seems to be better idea which you can easily cut with the grinder if its too long.
Thankyou for the video Quick question, Is the stone wall (on your property) how expensive compared to pre fabricated cement bricks? Thankyou in advance
I def would make the concrete a little wetter than that and I would not wait until the end to vibrate to ensure no voids are left. You would be very surprised at how easy it is to have voids in the structure caused by trapped air if you were to break apart the pier. I'm sure this will do the job for a backyard setting but if structural strength is important, I would def take these steps.
Good. Video. Thank you! However, he is building on what looks like very level land. If you have a slope, you may need a transit and builders level to ensure all footings are the same height. This will save aggravation later on in your build
With concrete you want the wetter the better they say . But on the contrary you don't want to wash the Portland cement for the aggregate so don't make soup make pudding ... also if you were going to mix it in a wheelbarrow should have used regular concrete....
Looks like your mix is a little dry IMO, you can use the fast set concrete and not mix it in the wheelbarrow. I work with it all the time- here’s how I do it and I have never had an issue with it being sound. Pour a little water in the hole before adding any concrete, then add 1/4 to half the bag and use a wooden steak, rebar etc to mix it up and agitate it In the hole, stir it around and you will see if you have any dry mix and not enough water. Then add more water if necessary, then add the other part of the bag and add more water- rinse and repeat
You sunk the anchors pretty deep....did you leave enough anchor above the concrete to attach it to your joists...looks like you only have about 2" to play with....maybe I'm not seeing it clearly....
How were you able to get away with that wall? I live on an island in Georgia on the main road coming on to the island. You think i could get away with this? Without pulling a permit?
Do not have rebar sitting on dirt. It will rust. It can sit on gravel. If you make a large circular area in the middle of the wheel barrel and pour water in that is the best way to work concrete. It is also advised to secure sonic tubes. Some people build a little frame around it and stake it if it is a shallow pour. Remember, concrete for posts drys very fast.
Duuuude that concrete is WAY too dry, you didn't rod the mix as you were filling the tube (to eliminate any voids), and that anchor bolt no doubt has voids around it since you hammered it into dry mix and barely filled the open slot it left! I hope it lasts for you.
thanks for the vid, did you end up needing 2 bags per footing? also, is your frost line only at 6" you cut your tubes into thirds, so your holes only needed to be 18" deep?
Each tube needed about 3 bags of the 50lb stuff. You're correct, our frost line is only 6" here. One of the few benefits of living in the desert I guess!
I would certainly consider adding rebar if these were supporting a more substantial structure, or if the piers were above grade. Since these are buried with very stable and dense soil conditions, I decided against it. Thanks for the suggestion!
@@-ssch Sure, you just want to make sure the rebar is fully encapsulated within the concrete. Any rebar poking out the top or bottom will be at risk for corrosion and may weaken the footing.
I have seen people use flower pots and home depo buckets but I wanted something slimmer. If I need to use those ideas instead because it is safer and sturdier I will.
Hi, thanks for the video. It really helped me to make my plan. When u dig first for the tube it’s bigger than the hole and filled additional space with dirt - is it fine if it’s left like that asking because mine looks loose. Thx
That water to mix ratio was way off. You practically have gravel underneath of the smooth top. Then again, it could be just the camera making it look that way.
More water in the mix, no reason to use fast setting mix.,You have more time to work to be sure there are voids inside the sonotube with normal setting concrete.
So you go out and buy the more expensive post Crete dry mix then mix it? ??? WTF is the point of spending the extra cash. Also hammering your L bolt into this half wet mix means your bolt is now more likely than not sitting in a void inside the concrete no matter how much you think you “back fill” it. So is probably as much use a pork chop at a Bar-mitzvah.
Wow! A lot of a-holes climbing all over the guy for technique. He never professed to be an expert, man! I appreciate those giving constructive criticism, I learn from that too, but those with the attitude... keep it to yourself. Peace.
I hope you waited to read these comments before pouring the other footings. That said, it's videos like this that teach others how to do it right, so thank you for posting, and I'm sure for a pergola these will be just fine.
Hey y’all this is a DYI project calm down. Thanks for sharing. Love that property line stonewall.
Nice job but plenty of good comments for others to follow to avoid your mistakes. Should have gravel at bottom of hole and add some concrete before sticking your center rebar. You don’t want rebar in the dirt cause it will rust. Should be fully encased in cement. Definitely don’t pay extra for dry set concrete if you’re going to mix it anyway, plus it needed more water. A couple of support rebars would be good. You have to poke the cement with the rebar as you add cement. What you did at the end did nothing because you didn’t get more than a 1/4 of the way through the tube. The concrete further down is full of air pockets which means your rebar will rust as water seeps in. Other than that, you’re good.
Thanks to all , the video and the comments helped me alot with my first project of laying a 10×8 concrete slab
Bruh it don’t even rain in his area
good
I specifically searched through the comments for tips so thank you
Appreciate the video, which is helpful. A few tips: 1. When you initially dig the hole you should avoid disturbing the surrounding soil. A hole manual post digger or an auger would help with this. 2. I agree the normal concrete mix would also work best for this application since it has greater strength even though curing takes longer.
Since you used a wheelbarrow to mix the concreate you could have just used regular bagged concreate (which is less expensive) It's much easier to work with and you have more time more time to work with it .
"Regular" Concrete mix (of the correct grade) when used in footings/foundations, will also provided a more structurally stronger result.
Like others have pointed out, you really need to spend more time making sure there where no air gapes in the mix by the use of a piece of steel rod etc, and then "tramp" it down more at the half filled point.
But hey! it was your first go and good on-ya for giving it a go!
You just wanted to show off that beautiful wall. You can't fool a fool
Fred Flintstone would be proud
There are a lot of videos against "wet setting" anchor bolts. In this case, the concrete mix is too dry and did not flow to close around the anchor bolt. The resulting void will fill with water and may lead to premature failure of the concrete.
Says who. Show us engineering references please
@@johnraviella6561 ua-cam.com/video/GH_ftdpC-2g/v-deo.html
@johnraviella6561 if you work with this concrete on a regular basis you don't need an engineer to tell you.
The correct method is pouring the mix into the form and then add water. It settles and closes voids. The concrete begins to harden in less than 10 mins and is unworkable in 15. At 20 mins its over. If you aren't done by then you're screwed.
The instructions on the bag says pour the mix in the form or hole. They make the stuff so what do they know anyway
@@johnraviella6561😂
This was SO HELPFUL! Thank you! I have no idea what most of this stuff is but I will be able to google all the names of the stuff you used to help me get a better understanding. On to the next video!
Hi
You need more water in the concrete mix.
I weanted to comment the same - concrete mix is some too dry.
Not true, his mix was perfect.
@@jdjeep46 OK
Yep. Too dry. It's as if he couldn't read the amount to use per bag on the side of the packaging.
He did. He stated he actually used slightly more water than what the bag instructed.
Just my thoughts. I would have drawn the strings and keep them during the process. So you get the 90 angel on the middle one and also get the ancar bolts in line.
nice job on the footings, if it was me i would maybe have dug a 2 ft hole and dumped a few bags of concrete in and smoothed out the top. or just built it on a concrete block sitting on the grass. well done on what you did
And you pray that no one will step accidentally over the anchor bolt :D
But in general i would add more water to the mixture. It looks too dry.
Additionally using a longer anchor bold seems to be better idea which you can easily cut with the grinder if its too long.
Yes...it looks a bit dry and he should have tamped down the aggregate (gravel in the mix) with a 2x4 instead of the rebar, then smooth over the top
I think there was a water shortage. Beautiful wall by the way.
How do you make sure there all exactly the same level
Thankyou for the video
Quick question,
Is the stone wall (on your property) how expensive compared to pre fabricated cement bricks?
Thankyou in advance
Wow! Good lookin dude, good lookin footings!
I def would make the concrete a little wetter than that and I would not wait until the end to vibrate to ensure no voids are left. You would be very surprised at how easy it is to have voids in the structure caused by trapped air if you were to break apart the pier. I'm sure this will do the job for a backyard setting but if structural strength is important, I would def take these steps.
Did city require an inspection on the footings before you poured concrete?
Good. Video. Thank you! However, he is building on what looks like very level land. If you have a slope, you may need a transit and builders level to ensure all footings are the same height. This will save aggravation later on in your build
How long did you waited for it to dry before putting up the pergola?
I let it dry for a week before I started the pergola
You need to add more water to improve workability.
With concrete you want the wetter the better they say . But on the contrary you don't want to wash the Portland cement for the aggregate so don't make soup make pudding ... also if you were going to mix it in a wheelbarrow should have used regular concrete....
Good ole El Paso...
Can always tell by those walls... Peace
Looks like your mix is a little dry IMO, you can use the fast set concrete and not mix it in the wheelbarrow. I work with it all the time- here’s how I do it and I have never had an issue with it being sound. Pour a little water in the hole before adding any concrete, then add 1/4 to half the bag and use a wooden steak, rebar etc to mix it up and agitate it In the hole, stir it around and you will see if you have any dry mix and not enough water. Then add more water if necessary, then add the other part of the bag and add more water- rinse and repeat
How much time do you usually have between mixing bags to pour in the same sonotube? Thanks for sharing your video btw
You sunk the anchors pretty deep....did you leave enough anchor above the concrete to attach it to your joists...looks like you only have about 2" to play with....maybe I'm not seeing it clearly....
You use a fitting. 2 inches is more than enough.
nice cause that steucture isnt going to fly away in the wind 👍
Can’t wait for the continuation of this project you started. Next video please🙏
Thanks! Working hard on the next portion.
I prefer square shape concrete footings in case you want to lay pavers around it much easier.
How do you know that this 4 off bases are in the same level ?
Good video! Did you also build your stone and concrete fence?
How were you able to get away with that wall?
I live on an island in Georgia on the main road coming on to the island. You think i could get away with this? Without pulling a permit?
the concrete mix is too hard plus you should have poked it with the rebar half way through, now you have concrete with hollow holes in it
Great 👍 job!! How much water do you poured on one bag of concrete?
It was slightly more than what was stated on the bag (around 2.5L).
Do not have rebar sitting on dirt. It will rust. It can sit on gravel. If you make a large circular area in the middle of the wheel barrel and pour water in that is the best way to work concrete. It is also advised to secure sonic tubes. Some people build a little frame around it and stake it if it is a shallow pour. Remember, concrete for posts drys very fast.
Duuuude that concrete is WAY too dry, you didn't rod the mix as you were filling the tube (to eliminate any voids), and that anchor bolt no doubt has voids around it since you hammered it into dry mix and barely filled the open slot it left!
I hope it lasts for you.
Why not mix the concrete in a 5 gallon bucket? Seems easier than a wheelbarrow???
No rebar? 😮
At minute 4:50 “that’s not quite right” 🤣
thanks for the vid, did you end up needing 2 bags per footing? also, is your frost line only at 6" you cut your tubes into thirds, so your holes only needed to be 18" deep?
Each tube needed about 3 bags of the 50lb stuff. You're correct, our frost line is only 6" here. One of the few benefits of living in the desert I guess!
I like this vid, best I seen
Nice stone wall
Could this method be used as a mount for a freestanding pergola or pergola kit?
You need more water!
Does the concrete need to stick above the ground?
This is why you get someone that knows what they’re doing to do the job for you.
4:00 I guess that makes me a pro 🤷🏿♂️
Tell us about your Wall!!!
How did you measure the height of them to each other though? I need to set 8 of them for a 18 x 20 pergola.
I ran a tight string from the edge of one to the edge of the others and made sure the string was level.
You can purchase a little level that will hook to a string line. Look up 'String Level'. They're very inexpensive.
I thought you had to add rebar in the cement for structural support?
I would certainly consider adding rebar if these were supporting a more substantial structure, or if the piers were above grade. Since these are buried with very stable and dense soil conditions, I decided against it. Thanks for the suggestion!
Agreed. Rebar would also help the concrete stay together over time.
@@HouseholdHowTo if I want to add rebar. I just need to stick couple of two foot bars into the pillar is fine ?
@@-ssch Sure, you just want to make sure the rebar is fully encapsulated within the concrete. Any rebar poking out the top or bottom will be at risk for corrosion and may weaken the footing.
That concrete was dry af you shouldn't need a hammer to drive in your anchor bolt or have to back fill the hole
that was funny him poking holes then covering the holes with half dry concrete,,, boom,, instant air pockets
Awesome! Looking forward to your other videos!!
That wall!!!🤠
Where are you located?
I have a deck that I am going to put my pergola on. Can I put my 4x4x6 posts inside of the cylinder footings?
I have seen people use flower pots and home depo buckets but I wanted something slimmer. If I need to use those ideas instead because it is safer and sturdier I will.
Would the footings be physically attached to the deck in any way?
Prefectionist.
So what area of El Paso is this project being done at?
What are the measurements of your post?? Also away from ur wall??
16 inches.... is this in El Paso?
Hi, thanks for the video. It really helped me to make my plan. When u dig first for the tube it’s bigger than the hole and filled additional space with dirt - is it fine if it’s left like that asking because mine looks loose. Thx
You'll just want it to be stable enough so that it does not wiggle around while you're filling it up with concrete.
Hi what were your dimensions
That water to mix ratio was way off. You practically have gravel underneath of the smooth top. Then again, it could be just the camera making it look that way.
Which makes the footing useless.....
what was your total cost?
Facing the wheelbarrow the other way would have made shovelling the concrete much easier.
thanks. very useful. get rid of the music
Do you live in El Paso?
I do. Rock walls give it away?
Yes, I was wondering the same thing. I wonder if all footings need to be made at 16” in EP?
That’s not the way to work concrete
Where vid 2
THANK YOU
More water in the mix, no reason to use fast setting mix.,You have more time to work to be sure there are voids inside the sonotube with normal setting concrete.
One gallon of water per 80lbs bag.so every one knows
all that effort and you didn't even make sure the anchor bolt was perpendicular. can you say "crooked"?
so much for measuring
Ok…there is so many options here,it’s a pergola
good video but I pour more milk on my breakfast than u put in that barrow fist time lol
how deep were ur footers and how big was ur sonotube?
12 inches in diameter and a little over 16 inches deep.
What do you need footings for
Don’t you are already have a pair of feet
Those arent footers. The tubes sit on footers👍
Thats a narly slum, also next time get a paddle mixer bit & hook it to your drill.
i have seen a lot of videos from experts, and something tells me this concrete mix is too dry
Bro concrete is way to dry
Your concrete mix is dry it’s gonna crumble
Your concrete is a little on the dry side.
You need more water!
So you go out and buy the more expensive post Crete dry mix then mix it? ??? WTF is the point of spending the extra cash. Also hammering your L bolt into this half wet mix means your bolt is now more likely than not sitting in a void inside the concrete no matter how much you think you “back fill” it. So is probably as much use a pork chop at a Bar-mitzvah.
Bro ain’t concolidate also concrete too dry need a slump of 4 to be at its best quality not too much water but not too dry
That looks way too dry
More water 💦
I have done very similar with woodglut designs.
Wow! A lot of a-holes climbing all over the guy for technique. He never professed to be an expert, man! I appreciate those giving constructive criticism, I learn from that too, but those with the attitude... keep it to yourself. Peace.
Sorry but your mix is to dry
This video is about how to NOT DO IT.
Everything in this video is BIG WHY???
Way to dry
Another amateur showing people the wrong way to do home improvement projects
Wtf was thag
Amateur !
Absolutely no reason and counterproductive to use the quickset stuff if you're going to pre-mix it. Too dry also.
How did you build that wall?