Another recommended practice is to soak your block (or brick) in water. Dry masonry wicks moisture from the mortar/concrete and weakens the mixture because it then doesn’t cure correctly. Weigh a dry block/brick. Then put it in a wheelbarrow filled with water. You will see a lot of bubbles released as it soaks. Then weigh it after an hour. You will be amazed how much water is absorbed.
In your video you cover about centering the block in the footing but I wonder why in the thumbnail it shows a 2in space on one side and 8in space on the other side of the CMU? Is probably an idiotic question, but is it a recommended approach than centering the CMU in the middle of the footing?
In Australia they are known as Besser blocks. How much weight can they each sustain in kilograms. Do I need to go deeper to support a steel framed house?
Depth is determined by local building codes. Here in the states it is usually 12 to 18 inches below the frost line. Depth is not determined by what the structure on top is built with. Strength is determined by several factors, one of which is the type of concrete mixture. You would have to look all that up for your area.
Different strokes and all. Always familiarize oneself with codes and building practices in ones area. Foundation type must be matched with soil classifications. Reactive vs non reactive sites and a whole host of other considerations must be taken into account. You're probably familiar with continuous footers. We don't do that much down here.
This is what I needed to see. How thick the concrete could be, so the footer doesn't run into it by its own weight. I still wasn't sure if I could level it later on a fresh concrete like you did. Thanks (from the Czech Republic) for the detailed video.
@@simplyeasydiy yes thanks I didn't wait for the video to end when I asked that question.... but while I continued watching I realized you answered it...
Setting Batter Boards Running String Line 🚧 Building A Workshop ua-cam.com/video/9HRL3ecKKIY/v-deo.html
Another recommended practice is to soak your block (or brick) in water. Dry masonry wicks moisture from the mortar/concrete and weakens the mixture because it then doesn’t cure correctly.
Weigh a dry block/brick. Then put it in a wheelbarrow filled with water. You will see a lot of bubbles released as it soaks. Then weigh it after an hour. You will be amazed how much water is absorbed.
You answered alot of questions. It's amazing to me how simple footings are and don't require an engineer to plan.
A long as you know your local code requirements anyone can do it.
would you recommend placing and compacting some 57 stone or other gravel below the footers?
If code calls for it or some other reason for your specific situation calls for it sure, otherwise no.
In your video you cover about centering the block in the footing but I wonder why in the thumbnail it shows a 2in space on one side and 8in space on the other side of the CMU? Is probably an idiotic question, but is it a recommended approach than centering the CMU in the middle of the footing?
The thumbnail is just some random pic that was free to use.
Your chickens are very entertaining!
That they are.
In Australia they are known as Besser blocks. How much weight can they each sustain in kilograms. Do I need to go deeper to support a steel framed house?
Depth is determined by local building codes. Here in the states it is usually 12 to 18 inches below the frost line. Depth is not determined by what the structure on top is built with. Strength is determined by several factors, one of which is the type of concrete mixture. You would have to look all that up for your area.
Where is part 2?
I guess I don’t understand, you said 12” below the frost line. Does that mean 4” of concrete + 8” of block?
Bottom of footer is 12" below frostline.
Great video I need this for my mobile homes
Mr. Sullivan, what is CMU? And thanks for the awesome video.
concrete masonry unit. I mention that somewhere in the video.
Being in northern Vermont this was totally foreign to me as an acceptable practice LOL
Different strokes and all. Always familiarize oneself with codes and building practices in ones area. Foundation type must be matched with soil classifications. Reactive vs non reactive sites and a whole host of other considerations must be taken into account. You're probably familiar with continuous footers. We don't do that much down here.
Very cool! I'm learning so much, thanks for sharing. I can't wait to see more!
More to come!
This is what I needed to see. How thick the concrete could be, so the footer doesn't run into it by its own weight. I still wasn't sure if I could level it later on a fresh concrete like you did. Thanks (from the Czech Republic) for the detailed video.
Glad it was helpful!
1. You made the footer 12 inch deep? How many bags of concrete per footer?
Bags of concrete can be different sizes. 60lbs vs 80lbs. So it depends. 2 or 3 for me.
Why 16" and 24" wide?
I state the reasons in the video.
@@simplyeasydiy yes thanks I didn't wait for the video to end when I asked that question.... but while I continued watching I realized you answered it...
It's looking great Stan, looking forward to the next instalment.
Take Care,
Barry (ENG)
Thanks Barry
Crazy, I've got to put 4'+ deep piers for a deck.
Good Luck
Your frost line, like mine, is deep probably
OK What is CMU?
OK watched it again and you mentioned it....