Thanks for your video. I have just fixed the same problem on my car. Note though that you don't need to undo the headliner completely just take off the left sun visor, pop out the left light, and unclip the A pillar trim. Then you can expose the part and get to the bolts with a little wiggling. I also found 4 slightly domed washers in mine where the lever goes up into the hole - be sure to put them back the right way.
Symptom - Roof would open no problem, but closing was a different matter. It would stall just after the front section hit the windscreen top (quite hard) on closing. Error on iDrive and dash. Release the centre console button, then hit it again. Roof would lock and windows up. No other issues. Same would happen when using key fob to do the job (comfort access fitted). Fault code - 00A696 Solution - seeing this vid, I checked the microswitch lever button (visible on the left location peg hole on the windscreen top) and yes, it was very off-centre and stuck in the closed position. I used a pick to move it slightly more central and heard a click from the microswitch, then initiated the roof closing. Roof closed softly and locked. At this point I normally open my wallet and fire the parts cannon, but figured that the microswitch was working so I dismantled the upper windscreen cowl area, removed the microswitch assy, and bent the bracket back so the plastic lever button was now central to the hole in the bracket. Result - fully functioning roof with no errors. Advice - I can't tell you how to bend your bracket to re-align the lever, but all I'll say is bend the metal bracket only, and stay well away from the switch and plastic bits. Centralise the button area of the plastic lever on the hole in the switch bracket, then re-install on the car and check alignment on the peg hole too. Many thanks to the OP.
The one thing I'm unclear on is why the bracket bends in the first place. It's a very tough bit of metal, and sorta overkill for the forces it has to carry. Perhaps heat in that area has something to do with it, and perhaps it wasn't heat-treated after it was formed. No matter, I'll report back if it reverts to its old ways.
So i would like to thank you for sharing this problem! You helped me fix exact the same problem! First i thought that there was something else wrong (more difficult to diagnose) but sometimes it is just very simple!
Awesome video "Cowl panel reached" microswitch 1 Look for e93 PDF from Top Hydraulics Inc. I've got the same problem opening and closing if i release the button and re-engage it will lock. Issue with opening i believe it's microswitch 10 and definitely with closing microswitch 1 I tried posting the PDF link on another bmw channel comments but UA-cam would take it down.
it did for me, but this is not the only solution for a blinking red light.. the solution i'm showing above is for people who have the problem of the roof crashing down at the end of the close cycle.
Luckily my roof never failed to open and close. It just closed really heavy and loud. There are other videos on the web that might help you if your roof is jammed shut.
Hello, my roof currently doesn't lock down at the front right where the sensors are just like in the video. There's no message though on the dash to say the roof isn't locked in place, but you can easily lift the roof up when it should be locked down. Do you think this is the right path to go down for me?
hi friend... I can't say what might be causing your issue - i dont think its related to the stuff i did in the video, as even though it would slam the roof down, it would still do that last "tighten up" whirr on every close... what you are describing seems to be mentioned in this thread www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2343236-E93-boot-wont-pull-closed ... hope that gives you some info you can work with and dont get hammered with a big repair bill cheers and happy new year.
jason scholey Hi, I have the same issue as you explained. Did you find a solution to the problem, really need it fixed without having to take it to the dealer. Thank you!
HI, thanks for this video. The problem I'm having is, when opening the hardtop, by pressing the button in the centre console, the roof detaches from the front then the sequence stops. I don't have the slamming you illustrate here, but in diagnostics the message reads. "A696 microswitch, cowl panel reached". Thus I'm unable to roll up my windows or complete the closing sequence of the hardtop roof. Have you ever experienced this?
@@Denisuko I swapped out the salmon relays, but this has not rectified my issue. Have you installed the two 'salmon' relays attached to the hydraulic pump in the boot/trunk?
N Richards I’m going to perform a test with ISTA and maybe I will get the bad microswich but it seems is the left or right microswich located in the front position (windshield). And also I’m going to do visual inspection from the side while the roof is closed.
Denisuko these isn’t a microswitch on the right front panel. These is one on the left and two in the center. I can share with you diagrams, but not sure how to do it here 🤷♂️
Besides the visors did you remove any of the light switches in the middle or did everything pop off all together ? Any help will be appreciated thanks !
I don’t recall having to do anything with the dome lights. I think That all came down with the top header panel. Everything seems to remain largely intact, and obvious was screws needed to be removed from top header . Then the windsceeen pillars just popped off without too much fuss. I’m not a mechanic, and I was able to do it... just take your time, you can do it!
I've got the same problem on the same car, same year (doh!). Can you tell me what the part number please? Also, how easy is it to 'pop' off the 'side covers' so that you can access the main windscreen panel?
Part number is in the video description details. I’m not a mechanic, I was able to dismantle the windscreen frame by just carefully removing sunvisors and any exposed bolts. If I remember the vertical pillar covers snap off.
The fix is only if the slamming of your roof is cause by a bent contact switch in the windshield frame just above the driver side sunvisor. Look at my video again, you should be able to see how if you put a pointy object in the hole, if the contact switch does not Tavel and click nicely in that hole, then it’s probably your switch is the cause.
Because when the switch is bent it stays in the closed position. That confuses the roof mechanism such that during the last step of the closing routine instead of soft close it slams down onto the top of the windshield.
Because when the switch is bent it stays in the closed position. That confuses the roof mechanism such that during the last step of the closing routine instead of soft close it slams down onto the top of the windshield.
Part is $99 at your local stealership, plus 3 hours at $179 to install it. Basically it's an $800 job at BMW. I should have looked this up before taking it to them
@@ghrant123 Thx I did mention your experience (1 hour install) and got a 15% discount plus a different $99 diagnostic fee waived so there is that... I knew I should have not taken it in there after I had diagnosed it down to being a microswitch and demonstrated it for the technician that it is the most likely culprit. I've already taken those A pillars off to run wires and install LED lights for the interior lights. Oh well. I told my wife if I ever take my car into the dealer again for something like this to just kick me in the balls and tell me not to be lazy & go fix it myself.
Yes. Still have car , 80k miles . No roof issue since , but one of the drawstrings for the liners is starting to wear so I’ve bought a replacement and will be Rethreading it soon. A preemptive repair.
@@ghrant123 Awesome that you still have it! And yes, the tensioner chords I applied some white lithium grease to just yesterday to prevent any fraying. Mine are still intact thankfully. '07 at 50k miles, however, this banging issue plagues me still. I've learnt to pause it 2-3 inches from fully up, and to close it slowly. I feel my top shudders a little going up and down, can I ask for a huge favour of you? If possible, could you make a video of the top going up and down perhaps so I can match it with mine and see if the shudders are normal? I'd be extreeemely grateful. My email is shaazy@hotmail.com
Update to this. I changed the Microswitch a while back and it doesn't slam shut anymore! Working fine several months later, except for the shudder in the trunk lid during the final stage of closing.
Thanks for your video. I have just fixed the same problem on my car. Note though that you don't need to undo the headliner completely just take off the left sun visor, pop out the left light, and unclip the A pillar trim. Then you can expose the part and get to the bolts with a little wiggling.
I also found 4 slightly domed washers in mine where the lever goes up into the hole - be sure to put them back the right way.
good update, hopefully people will read the comments! I sold the car and bought a M Roadster, so i'm a rag top convertible now
Mine started to do the same this morning, I will check the switch👍
Symptom - Roof would open no problem, but closing was a different matter. It would stall just after the front section hit the windscreen top (quite hard) on closing. Error on iDrive and dash. Release the centre console button, then hit it again. Roof would lock and windows up. No other issues. Same would happen when using key fob to do the job (comfort access fitted).
Fault code - 00A696
Solution - seeing this vid, I checked the microswitch lever button (visible on the left location peg hole on the windscreen top) and yes, it was very off-centre and stuck in the closed position. I used a pick to move it slightly more central and heard a click from the microswitch, then initiated the roof closing. Roof closed softly and locked.
At this point I normally open my wallet and fire the parts cannon, but figured that the microswitch was working so I dismantled the upper windscreen cowl area, removed the microswitch assy, and bent the bracket back so the plastic lever button was now central to the hole in the bracket.
Result - fully functioning roof with no errors.
Advice - I can't tell you how to bend your bracket to re-align the lever, but all I'll say is bend the metal bracket only, and stay well away from the switch and plastic bits. Centralise the button area of the plastic lever on the hole in the switch bracket, then re-install on the car and check alignment on the peg hole too.
Many thanks to the OP.
The one thing I'm unclear on is why the bracket bends in the first place. It's a very tough bit of metal, and sorta overkill for the forces it has to carry. Perhaps heat in that area has something to do with it, and perhaps it wasn't heat-treated after it was formed. No matter, I'll report back if it reverts to its old ways.
So i would like to thank you for sharing this problem! You helped me fix exact the same problem! First i thought that there was something else wrong (more difficult to diagnose) but sometimes it is just very simple!
Awesome video
"Cowl panel reached" microswitch 1 Look for e93 PDF from Top Hydraulics Inc.
I've got the same problem opening and closing if i release the button and re-engage it will lock. Issue with opening i believe it's microswitch 10 and definitely with closing microswitch 1
I tried posting the PDF link on another bmw channel comments but UA-cam would take it down.
Hey man. I am experiencing a similar issue, except my roof slams into the trunk when opening. It however closes smoothly in the front. Any ideas?
Did it get rid of the blinking red light on the button?
it did for me, but this is not the only solution for a blinking red light.. the solution i'm showing above is for people who have the problem of the roof crashing down at the end of the close cycle.
Reply to this ASAP please when the top was slamming and you were getting an error,your windows were not functioning correct?
There is no dependency on the roof headliner micro switch and the power window system that I’m aware of. ( but I’m not a car tech).
Thank you very much for the video! You saved me many euros, great!
thank you for the video! I was wondering if you know where the antenna diversity module is on our e93 convertibles
Luckily my roof never failed to open and close. It just closed really heavy and loud. There are other videos on the web that might help you if your roof is jammed shut.
Wondering how did you open the roof after you closed it and red light turned on, did you open it manually?
Mine's doing something similar. When the red light comes on, you pause, and then press it again, and it works.
Hello, my roof currently doesn't lock down at the front right where the sensors are just like in the video. There's no message though on the dash to say the roof isn't locked in place, but you can easily lift the roof up when it should be locked down. Do you think this is the right path to go down for me?
hi friend... I can't say what might be causing your issue - i dont think its related to the stuff i did in the video, as even though it would slam the roof down, it would still do that last "tighten up" whirr on every close... what you are describing seems to be mentioned in this thread www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2343236-E93-boot-wont-pull-closed ... hope that gives you some info you can work with and dont get hammered with a big repair bill cheers and happy new year.
jason scholey Hi, I have the same issue as you explained. Did you find a solution to the problem, really need it fixed without having to take it to the dealer. Thank you!
Is there one of these switches either side or just one side?
Just on drivers side
HI, thanks for this video. The problem I'm having is, when opening the hardtop, by pressing the button in the centre console, the roof detaches from the front then the sequence stops. I don't have the slamming you illustrate here, but in diagnostics the message reads. "A696 microswitch, cowl panel reached".
Thus I'm unable to roll up my windows or complete the closing sequence of the hardtop roof.
Have you ever experienced this?
I have the same issue and the same fault code. My windows doesn´t complete the secuence when the top is up.
@@Denisuko I swapped out the salmon relays, but this has not rectified my issue.
Have you installed the two 'salmon' relays attached to the hydraulic pump in the boot/trunk?
N Richards I’m going to perform a test with ISTA and maybe I will get the bad microswich but it seems is the left or right microswich located in the front position (windshield). And also I’m going to do visual inspection from the side while the roof is closed.
Denisuko these isn’t a microswitch on the right front panel. These is one on the left and two in the center. I can share with you diagrams, but not sure how to do it here 🤷♂️
Besides the visors did you remove any of the light switches in the middle or did everything pop off all together ? Any help will be appreciated thanks !
I don’t recall having to do anything with the dome lights. I think That all came down with the top header panel. Everything seems to remain largely intact, and obvious was screws needed to be removed from top header . Then the windsceeen pillars just popped off without too much fuss. I’m not a mechanic, and I was able to do it... just take your time, you can do it!
I've got the same problem on the same car, same year (doh!). Can you tell me what the part number please? Also, how easy is it to 'pop' off the 'side covers' so that you can access the main windscreen panel?
Part number is in the video description details. I’m not a mechanic, I was able to dismantle the windscreen frame by just carefully removing sunvisors and any exposed bolts. If I remember the vertical pillar covers snap off.
@@ghrant123 Excellent... Thank you
Please clarify: by replacing that switch, it will prevent the roof from slamming? Thanks.
The fix is only if the slamming of your roof is cause by a bent contact switch in the windshield frame just above the driver side sunvisor. Look at my video again, you should be able to see how if you put a pointy object in the hole, if the contact switch does not Tavel and click nicely in that hole, then it’s probably your switch is the cause.
@@ghrant123 Thanks. How did you get the roof to close more softly without slamming?
Michael Bernardo by replacing the broken contact switch. That fixed the problem.
@@ghrant123 OK I understand. Thanks.
Not sure I get this... how does replacing that switch help the roof close softer if it doesn't even hit the switch until the roof is already closed?
Because when the switch is bent it stays in the closed position. That confuses the roof mechanism such that during the last step of the closing routine instead of soft close it slams down onto the top of the windshield.
Because when the switch is bent it stays in the closed position. That confuses the roof mechanism such that during the last step of the closing routine instead of soft close it slams down onto the top of the windshield.
@@ghrant123 ahhhhhh... understood, thanks!
Are there similar switches in both sides or only one in the drivers side?
Lauri Ström only drivers side
Thx Bro
Part is $99 at your local stealership, plus 3 hours at $179 to install it. Basically it's an $800 job at BMW. I should have looked this up before taking it to them
ah, dude, sorry man... hurts to get nailed like that by dealership, its happened to me more than i care to admit. Thanks for the feedback.
@@ghrant123 Thx I did mention your experience (1 hour install) and got a 15% discount plus a different $99 diagnostic fee waived so there is that... I knew I should have not taken it in there after I had diagnosed it down to being a microswitch and demonstrated it for the technician that it is the most likely culprit. I've already taken those A pillars off to run wires and install LED lights for the interior lights. Oh well. I told my wife if I ever take my car into the dealer again for something like this to just kick me in the balls and tell me not to be lazy & go fix it myself.
Can you help me find the piece?
www.google.com/search?q=54+37+7188595&rlz=1C1ONGR_enCA946CA948&sxsrf=ALeKk01-QpXAZfKarowQWSRVEY9TH4T3rw:1628605420546&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiL98f806byAhXNLc0KHYZvCP0Q_AUIlwEoAA&biw=1600&bih=757
www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/switch/54377188595/
How much is this part from the BMW dealership?
i paid about $15USD with shipping from a BMW parts seller in UK
ghrant123
Great... not bad. Thxxxxx!
Hey, the link you posted doesn't seem to be accurate
It’s a three year old link. I’m not surprised. If you are liking for the part, search eBay or Amazon or Google using the part number I listed.
@@ghrant123 oh, my bad. Do you still have the car?
Yes. Still have car , 80k miles . No roof issue since , but one of the drawstrings for the liners is starting to wear so I’ve bought a replacement and will be Rethreading it soon. A preemptive repair.
@@ghrant123 Awesome that you still have it! And yes, the tensioner chords I applied some white lithium grease to just yesterday to prevent any fraying. Mine are still intact thankfully. '07 at 50k miles, however, this banging issue plagues me still. I've learnt to pause it 2-3 inches from fully up, and to close it slowly. I feel my top shudders a little going up and down, can I ask for a huge favour of you? If possible, could you make a video of the top going up and down perhaps so I can match it with mine and see if the shudders are normal? I'd be extreeemely grateful. My email is shaazy@hotmail.com
Update to this. I changed the Microswitch a while back and it doesn't slam shut anymore! Working fine several months later, except for the shudder in the trunk lid during the final stage of closing.