You are the only one on UA-cam who makes sure there is good tension on the chain by using the clamp and bottoming out the tensioner ratchet against the guide 👍
*don't forget to put the crank trigger wheel on. " Yea, I went through that already lol. My motor sat for 6 years so I don't even know what happened to mine, and when I put it in the car, that trigger wheel was a thought of the past. Things like that happening build experience and I think it's a good thing it happened in my case. Now is someone is having that issue, I in sure I'll know to say least check that. Now I'm learning about replacing all timing components "no matter what" because a secondary tensioner broke almost grenading my entire motor, at least the heads, but luckily there was zero damage to and valves or pistons and this is why I'm here.
Great step by step Josh. I have an o4 Aviator I rebuilt 6 years ago and a couple days ago the low oil pressure light came on quite a few times. Didn't want to blow the motor. Parked it found the sending unit was leaking. Replaced it but light's still coming on. So I'm going to break it down and install the Melling 3V high volume oil pump. But your vid sure will come in handy. Any advice would be appreciated. (I used the Ford motorsport timing kit when I rebuilt it-but curious where you got your guides in case I need to replace them like you did but am reuseing the oem metal supports like u did👍👍👍. Thanks for posting it
Thank you for your reply. I think I got my guides on Rockauto. I ended up keeping the metal ones and swapping the plastic part. Yeah, no worries, any questions you have. I have a Ford manual saved on my phone. Thanks, Josh
I'm pretty sure this is the same engine that comes in the 2003 Lincoln navigator except that the bore is bigger I have the 5.4. is this engine an interference engine?
I can’t get my keyways to face the crankshaft because the valve springs push the camshaft back, this isn’t a stock cam but I was hoping you could help.
So on the aftermarket tensioners I bought theirs a these two steel shims i believe that go behind tensions is that really nescary? Or can I run them without?
You are the only one on UA-cam who makes sure there is good tension on the chain by using the clamp and bottoming out the tensioner ratchet against the guide 👍
Agrree hadn't seen that either. Great Tip !
*don't forget to put the crank trigger wheel on. " Yea, I went through that already lol.
My motor sat for 6 years so I don't even know what happened to mine, and when I put it in the car, that trigger wheel was a thought of the past.
Things like that happening build experience and I think it's a good thing it happened in my case. Now is someone is having that issue, I in sure I'll know to say least check that.
Now I'm learning about replacing all timing components "no matter what" because a secondary tensioner broke almost grenading my entire motor, at least the heads, but luckily there was zero damage to and valves or pistons and this is why I'm here.
I’m so glad you posted this. This will be a lifesaver when I set the timing on my 4.6 4v!
this is by far the best video on youtube explaining everything - amazing vid..!
I love this video. Explained it well and to the point. It would be cool to see a video on how to degree your cams. For when you go after market.
Do a video on installing the lifters and rockers. On a 4.6 dohc
My marauder made a good noise this morning lol
Thank you so much man! This was a life saver for me!
Hi Josh. Thanks for the video. Would I be able to replace the timing chain tensioners without pulling the motor?
Yes, you would need to pull the radiator, fan, front accessories and any hose or harnesses in the way. You should have enough room to work
Great video very thorough. Thanks 👍
Fantastic video.
Great video! I need to do a timing job on my 2004 32V Intech 5.4L. Will it be the same procedure?
I'm not sure, which 5.4?
@@Oxman_Garage would it be the same for the 5.4 4v that comes in the 2004 Navigator?
Thanks, this was helpful.
Very helpful video!!
Is there a gasket on the primary chain metal tensioners? The plastic genuine tensioners have a O ring seal.
No gaskets on the metal, yes the plastic have a gasket.
@@Oxman_Garage just metal to metal no sealant?
@@veljo10z no sealant. Just the tensioner right on the block
Great step by step Josh. I have an o4 Aviator I rebuilt 6 years ago and a couple days ago the low oil pressure light came on quite a few times. Didn't want to blow the motor. Parked it found the sending unit was leaking. Replaced it but light's still coming on. So I'm going to break it down and install the Melling 3V high volume oil pump. But your vid sure will come in handy. Any advice would be appreciated. (I used the Ford motorsport timing kit when I rebuilt it-but curious where you got your guides in case I need to replace them like you did but am reuseing the oem metal supports like u did👍👍👍. Thanks for posting it
Thank you for your reply. I think I got my guides on Rockauto. I ended up keeping the metal ones and swapping the plastic part. Yeah, no worries, any questions you have. I have a Ford manual saved on my phone. Thanks, Josh
@@Oxman_Garage Thanks Josh. Appreciate it.
I'm pretty sure this is the same engine that comes in the 2003 Lincoln navigator except that the bore is bigger I have the 5.4. is this engine an interference engine?
Yup, same procedure
K thanks is it an interference engine the cam chain broke and I'm wondering if I need to remove the head to look for damage
I assume the head can be assembled first and then put on the block? Leaving the crank key at the 12 o clock position so there is no ptv damage
Yes you can install the lash adjuster and rockers before hand with camshafts. Then install the head on the block. Yes make sure the crank is at 12. 👍
@@Oxman_Garage ty sir!
*Disclaimer: Watch in 1.25 x's speed.
*Disclaimer: Watch in 1.25 x's speed.
why is your secondary chain timing marks on driver side on the bottom?(black links?
The ford racing timing chain kit I bought has blackened marked links. The chains in my car were aftermarket and had gold links.
I can’t get my keyways to face the crankshaft because the valve springs push the camshaft back, this isn’t a stock cam but I was hoping you could help.
I did the timing with the lash and rockers out. You would need the cam holding tool
does Cyl1 need to be on TDC before you put the crank at 10?
At 4:08. The tool puts you at TDC, which is the 10 o'clock position.
@@Oxman_Garage so it that on compression stroke or does it not matter as long as its on TDC?
So on the aftermarket tensioners I bought theirs a these two steel shims i believe that go behind tensions is that really nescary? Or can I run them without?
I would have to see them. Stock chain tensioners are always best.
@@Oxman_Garage I looked at them from what I gathered on forms non Windsor engines use them as spacer for some reason
Do you have the link to the cam holding tool?
You might find it cheaper online.
www.freedomracing.com/camshaft-holding-tool-4v-303-446-t93p-6256-ah-ahr.html?___store=default
@@Oxman_Garage thanks man !
Hi Josh do you have a face book page I can converse with you on ? Thanks. Looked up your channel but couldn't find a page for you. Thanks.
Send me a message on "Milwaukee Mustang Auto Parts"
Or Ox Man Garage on Instagram
@@Oxman_Garage Thanks.