Thx for taking the time. Prob the best vid on 4V timing. No obnoxious background music, just the facts and all shots in the camera frame. Well done, thx.
Almost 4 monthsa ago my lincoln aviator went down due to timing failure.....couldnt have found a better video to help me out with retiming the 4.6 dohc!! Great vid!!
Haha . I love the outro.. So I'm watching this video because my new build sat in my garage for 6 years and they wheel grew legs, walked away and didn't even give me a 2 weeks notice. So after finally putting the motor in a vehicle, whoops, no crank trigger wheel 🤦🏽. No wonder the car wouldn't start. Duh... So I'm tearing it back down while the motor is in the car. This video is more of a help than you know buddy. 👍🏽
Great video! On my Brother's Bullitt the previous owner put the reluctor wheel on backwards and he had a heck of a time figuring out why it was breaking up at top RPM. He looked in and saw the fingers facing backwards (not the thick style).
Great video man! Thanks for this, one of my tensioners gave out during a drive and I'm pretty sure piston met valve, luckily I have another set of heads that I can just slap on my car but the timing on these 4Vs seemed a little daunting but now i'm sure I can get this down no problem.
Thank you and sorry to hear about your car. Setting the timing can be intimidating but if you take your time it can be done fairly easy. Let me know if you have any questions.
That is a very instructive video John. I am from Australia and I have the Ford Boss 5.4Litre 4 valve V8. I take it the procedure is exactly the same. I am just waiting for the Ford kit to turn up from the states and am also replacing the oil pump with a Melling M227 pump.
Thank you. Yes, it will be a similar procedure for the 5.4. The main difference will be that the 5.4 will have two dark chain links for the top and the sprocket tooth will go in between them.
@@JohnSmithRacing Just wondering how many times the motor has to be turned with chains still on to get all dots and links to line up. Have got the primary chain dots and links lined up after rotating the crankshaft numerous times but secondaries are not lined up.
@@garymcphee8284 I don't know exactly but I have heard they only line up every 100 revolutions or something. If you are unsure if the timing is correct you can turn the engine until the secondary chains are pointed up and then just undo the primary chains and line up the links.
@@JohnSmithRacing Hello John, thanks for your reply. I made sure the primary chain dots lined up ok with the primary cogs and then removed the secondary chains and made sure that there were 7 links as per shown on the chains. I have not moved the crankshaft or cams and it all went straight on so should be good. Removing the oil pick up bolts are a real pain when the motor is in the car. Looks like I will have to loosen the sump and let it hang down a bit at the front to put the pickup bolts back in.
Just a tip for those that are trying to move the crankshaft, don't use channel locks or vise grips, if you damage the crankshaft you're risking a oil leak because the oil seal won't seal properly.
good video my brother ,,i got 2004 maruader 112,000 miles on it..eventually im gonna have do my engine it has that rattle sound only when u frist start it up for about few seconds then it goes away..maybe timming chain tensioner latting the chain slap to the oil fill them or hydraullio cylinder in the tensionerare alittle worn
Thank you. Adding a filter with an anti-drain back valve might help as well. Ford Racing makes a really nice filter but the Motorcraft one also has anti-drain in it.
Graet video thank you but could you please show how to advance the cam specially the 96-98 cobra cams on 99 -2004 4V heads I heard it need to be advance 2 or 3 degree thanks again.
Thank you, a video on degreeing cams is a good idea. Its difficult to degree stock cams unless you know the specified centerline. I don't know where that is supposed to be and I am not sure if it is published. There is some movement in the stock cam gears to be had by loosening the bolt and then putting pressure one way or the other while tightening the bolt. You can also file the key way in the sprocket to move it a little more.
I’m looking at getting a 96 cobra that is 100% stock but has a blown head gasket. I’m taking the motor out to do the job. I will be taking the heads to a shop to have them checked to make sure they’re not warped. In your video when you mention turning the crank and not having your cam followers and lash adjusters in there….if I am just taking the heads off and to have them looked at and then just reinstalling them do I need to worry about that as long as I have the colored chain links and timing marks lined up like you showed?
The reason you do not want to rotate the crank without the chains attached is because if there is a valve in the open position you do not want the piston to hit it. If the cams are removed all the valves will be closed and you wouldn't have to worry about piston to valve contact.
@@bobbydouglas16 Yes, it can be done. I don't usually do it that way but that doesn't mean its wrong or can't be done. I would just make sure none of the pistons are at top dead center. You don't want to torque a valve into a piston because the timing will not be set yet.
@@bobbydouglas16 I usually put the crank key at the 12 o clock position, just because its easier to see. No pistons should be at TDC at the 12, 3, 6, & 9 o clock positions. Those positions are for the crankshaft woodruff key
I have question will removing the cam follwers and alone be ok or do I have to remove the lash adjusters as well? I’m doing timing on a 4.6 4v 01 cobra !
Taking the cam followers out will make it easier, but even those don't "have" to come out. The lash adjusters do not need to be removed. However, it is a good idea to bleed them down to make sure a valve doesn't hang open and make putting the cam follower back in easier.
I turned my crank a little bit in order to get the blue link to line up with the dot on cam gear. The dots all matched up to the blue links but the crank pulley dot was no longer at 6 o’clock. Is this okay or is it out of time?
I do the same thing. As long as the dots line up with the dark links, it doesn't matter if the crank is turned. When everything is where you want it, you should be able to rotate the crank back to the recommended starting point and have everything line up.
@@JohnSmithRacing thank you! You have by far the best videos on setting the time on these engines. I just got mine wrapped up and timing cover put back on thanks to you.
i noticed that your factory sec cam sprockets have built in woodruf keys....my 1996 cobra engine doesnt have any, is it wise to get updated sprockets? love your videos
Thank you for watching. I feel like it is a good idea to use the sprockets with the key on them. However, if you change to that style you need to make sure that your cams are cut deep enough in the keyway for them not to bottom out. I have seen engines with broken sprockets shortly after install because they changed them but the keyway on the cams was not cut deep enough.
@JohnSmithRacing I made some custom keys for them,since I felt the factory left out this small detail I made sure the depths were correct for washers and primary sprockets are flush I didn't want to grind on cams Thanks for the tech help Keep up the great videos
I have a quick question I'm doing a timing chain and new cams valve springs when I put the car to top dead center can I take the valve springs and Cam's all out or just the valve adjusters and those other things 1 paise is can I put the car top dead center with all the stuff out of the head
If I am understanding the questions correctly, yes you can. With the piston at TDC on the power stroke both valves will be closed. You can put compressed air into the chamber to hold the valves up as well. Just be careful not to hit the valves on the piston.
@@Travillage You might be able to check by taking the crank position sensor out and trying to look in the hole and see if the wheel is centered in it. A borescope would make it easier to get a good look too.
@@JohnSmithRacing I'm very interested in setting the timing on the comp cam setup for the 4V. Following you now and thanks for doing these helpful videos. 😎👍
So on mine I just took apart the secondary can gear doesn't have the keyway slot? Their was no keyway in when I took it apart. How can I hold the cam to the gear correctly?
Are you saying the secondary cam gear doesn't have a key or a slot in it? I believe I have heard of people finding them but I haven't seen them. Can you email me pictures at JohnSmithRacing@outlook.com
Hi John, I have three questions for you. 1. How come you didn't use the OTC crankshaft positioning tool that keeps the crankshaft/piston at TDC. 2. I'm purchasing the Ford Performance 5.3 modular stroker short block #M-6009-B53. I'm installing my 1998 cobra 4v dual port heads with Comp Cams #106500. Valve lift - intake .475, exh .450. Will these cams work with this stroker motor? They worked fine with my 4.6 cobra motor. 3. Will the Ford Performance 4.6 4v cam shaft drive kit #M-6004-A464 work on this engine combo or is there a better brand out there. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
I have never had the need to the OTC tool, keeping the piston directly on tdc isn't as important as making sure the dots and the dark links line up. As far as the cams, it depends on the piston in the engine but most likely it will be fine. Yes, that timing kit from Ford Performance is a good one to use.
Should I rotate the motor after I put the chains on by hand ? And how many rotations before the marks line back up or will they ? Thanks got mine tore down in car right now
You can rotate it after the chains are on but I prefer not to. Only because I like to be able to verify that the dots are lined up. The marks don't line up that often once it rotates, I heard it was every 100 revolutions or something.
Does this eliminate the need to degree the camshafts? Seems like the darker chain links eliminate the need to degree it, going to be tearing my 03 4v down to the block here in the next couple days to go to aluminum block. Any advice would be greatly appreciated thank you. Also great video.
@@JohnSmithRacing Ok, I will have to look deeper into that. Thank you again for taking the time to make these videos. It really helps out us backyard gear heads do what we love.
Hey man so I did this exactly fired up my car and my 02 was reading 35.6. Got a new one still did the same thing, the more and more I started the car it would run worse than eventually not want to run. I did a compression test and I have low compression. Short block had no issues before. So I believe somehow my timing is off any ideas?
Unfortunately it could be a number of things. There could be an issue with the heads. I would try to do a leak-down test to get a better idea of wear the compression is escaping. Also, if the engine is low on one entire side, there is a good chance the timing is off.
No, I actually try to make sure no pistons are at TDC before removing everything. That way if the cams move when the chains come off they don't hit a piston.
Could you comment on the direction that the key way tapper on the cam sprockets is supposed to face relative to the front of the engine? I noticed on the left side sprockets you had the tapper facing in and on the right side facing out? Is this the only config? I did it exactly as you have in just curious.
@@JohnSmithRacing thank you. I’m upgrading a marauder’s engine to an MMR guide and tensioner and secondary chain and tensioner to hopefully get rid of some chain rattle around 2500-3200. Throwing a steige rebuilt Eaton on top as well. I’ve never done 4V chains but I’m curious about what happens on first start up before primary plungers have their ratchets in the extended position? Is this anything to actually give thought to or will it be resolved within a turn of the starter? Thanks again you videos are great for the home tech.
@@dsauce8780 The tensioners and even the cam lash adjusters should only take a few seconds to build oil pressure. I usually do a compression test before I fire and engine and that might help get some oil up into the oil gallery. Some people will make a pump thing to pump oil into the engine but I think most just fire it up.
How did you remove the cam followers and valve adjusters? I saw a video of you installing them but not removing maybe it's the same but I want to be sure
I most likely used the same tool. However, if you do not have the tool you can slowly remove the cam girdles to get them out. It is not recommended but if you go slow and evenly, it can be done. I definitely do not recommend putting them back in the same way. The best way to install them is with the proper tool.
@@ballinger214 Yes, it is a lot easier and faster to take them out by removing the girdles with a small electric impact. You just have to try and go slow and evenly when taking the bolts out so the cam does not bind up and break either the girdle or the locating dowels.
@@JohnSmithRacing do you have a part number for that tool? I am having a hard time locating the valve spring compressor tool you used in your other video. Great stuff!
Hey quick question I got my short block back from the machine shop assembled as well as my heads, and they installed my secondary chains on my heads already, can I rotate my block where the keyway needs to be before I put the heads on and have everything lined up before I join the heads to the block so I don’t have to take my cams and adjusters and secondary chains off?
Sorry for the delay in response, I haven't been getting notifications. If the keyway on the crank is positioned straight up all the pistons will be down from TDC and there is less chance of piston to valve contact. Just make sure they have the cams timed together properly.
@@JohnSmithRacing So is it okay to have the lifters, rockers, and cams assembled in the heads before installing them to the block? I noticed you didnt have them in the heads in this video. I saw you posted a link for a valve spring compression tool for a 2V. Will it work the same for the 4V? I'm assuming you can use that tool to install the lifters and rockers after the timing is doen as shown in your video here?
I am not sure if I understand the question. With cylinder 1 at TDC, you line up all the timing marks, and once the chain is on the cam will move in time with the crank.
Pretty sure most of this would apply to the Aussie 4v 5.4ltr also. I have one 😁 I'd love to get my hands on a 4.6ltr bottom end to drop into my 4x4. Going to use Holden 5ltr (GM) instead as I already have one in the shed. Much easier to find here than the 4.6ltr mod.
@@JohnSmithRacing Sorry I should have been clearer. The 5.4ltr 4v boss motor I have in the shed is in my car. A 2007 BF MK2 XR8 in Ego (greyish) 6 speed manual & has less than 50,000 miles one it. It's my fun/enthusiast car not my daily.
Most likely not much mark 8 made 290hp 290ish tq the cobras made 300ish HP and 305 ish tq Ford did not make Hot cams in the early makings of any mod motor If you can find them for super cheap they're probably worth swapping for
John that's one of the best video's I've seen on the 4 valve. I'll be rebuilding mine late this year and the one part that made me nervous was degreeing the cams. I've heard there's kits that can assist with that. What do the kits do compared to what you showed on your video? I'm debating between using my Mach 1 cams vs the 98 cobra cams. Thanks
No problem, I use the TrickFlow 4.6 cam degree kit. I can't remember if the piston stop I have came with the kit or not but I had to modify it to work with the 4 thread heads. Comp cams has pretty good instructions on how the process is done. If you can't find the step by step let me know and I can try and post a link.
@@JohnSmithRacing Is it possible to not degree the cams and just line the stock components back up like in your video? I'm hoping to keep everything as simple as posible and don't need peak horsepower. Thanks again.
@@MikesGarageRoute66 Your car will fire up and be just fine without degree'ing the cams. However, I've heard of some cars being 40-50 hp down just by not having the cams properly degree'd. I'd go ahead and do it the right way since everything is apart. Why not?
I can't seem to find the actual tool I use, but its similar to this: www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24434-Valve-Spring-Compressor/dp/B015NIQOXK/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=4.6+valve+spring+compressor+tool&qid=1593489536&s=automotive&sr=1-7
@@JohnSmithRacing Do you have a video of that tool in use to reinstall the lifters and rockers? When following your directions in this video, is using that tool the only way to reinstall them after doing the timing?
@@JohnSmithRacing One more question. The link you posted for the vlave spring compressor says it is for the 2V engine. I have a 4V from a 1998 Mark 8. Will it work the same?
Great coverage of this topic. Thanks! for torquing the bolts on the ends of the cams, the spec I find in the Ford manual is 30 ft-lbs plus 90 degrees. I'm wondering what to use to react the torque. is the "special tool" meant to react the torque, or do I somehow use the sprocket(s)? Thanks in advance.
Thank you. If you are asking how to hold the camshafts to torque them, you can use a pipe wrench, a ratchet in the back of the cam, or there is a special tool designed to hold the cam. The bolts are supposed to be one time use but I have heard of them being used again and torqued to 90-100 lbft with locktite. I tend to use ARP ones that are reusable.
@@JohnSmithRacing Thanks, that's helpful. I just didn't want to be applying torque through the camshaft if it wasn't meant to take it, and I didn't know if that tool was only meant to index the position or to actually take the torque. I guess once the chains are all in place, there could be an option of holding the position at the crankshaft front too. Disassembling tomorrow. Thanks for the help.
@@steveperez1178 Its fine, I use a big pipe wrench in the middle if I am installing factory cams. I would not try holding the crank due to the load on all the timing components.
Did you just reinstall old timing parts back into the motor? That was a used tensioner. And those 2 piece crank pulley are a joke. And the 1 piece sprockets are cheap. And so is new guides and tensioners. Hopefully this wasn't a customers car. If it was and your reusing all those wearable parts I would be pissed. Nobody and I mean NO mechanic with an ounce of actual pride in his work would have a motor ON AN ENGINE stand and put used timing PARTS back in.
Excellent video, the 4V community appreciates this.
hell yea we do
Thx for taking the time. Prob the best vid on 4V timing. No obnoxious background music, just the facts and all shots in the camera frame. Well done, thx.
I'm glad I found this video... currently doing valve seals on my 03 cobra. Got a couple long nights ahead of me. Wish me luck.
Update... found whole job super easy and timing a breeze!! Much easier then I thought
Hey did you do the valve seals with the heads on and if so how did you do it
Almost 4 monthsa ago my lincoln aviator went down due to timing failure.....couldnt have found a better video to help me out with retiming the 4.6 dohc!! Great vid!!
Glad it helped. Timing failures are common on these. I dont know why Ford switched to plastic tensioners.
Man this video on a how to is long ,long over due. Thank so much !
Haha . I love the outro.. So I'm watching this video because my new build sat in my garage for 6 years and they wheel grew legs, walked away and didn't even give me a 2 weeks notice.
So after finally putting the motor in a vehicle, whoops, no crank trigger wheel 🤦🏽. No wonder the car wouldn't start. Duh... So I'm tearing it back down while the motor is in the car. This video is more of a help than you know buddy. 👍🏽
Thank god a video that has shown the steps all the way thanks bro ❤❤❤
Great video. I was trying to figure out how to take that sprocket off the cams and couldn’t find a video but this helped.
You can compress the secondary tensioner and put a paper clip in the hole on the bottom to hold it so you don’t have to fight the chain over
Or even an Australian Boss 260 or 290. Excellent video, really well explained.
damn i needed this because im getting ready to rebuild a seased 4.6 DOHC cobra motor, this was extremely helpful. thanks for the video.
Great video! On my Brother's Bullitt the previous owner put the reluctor wheel on backwards and he had a heck of a time figuring out why it was breaking up at top RPM. He looked in and saw the fingers facing backwards (not the thick style).
I hadn't heard of that happening. They are clearly marked "Front" on them haha
I just learned that you can turn these engines over with the intake cams in upside down or 180 out. Amazing it didn't bend the valves!!!
Great video man! Thanks for this, one of my tensioners gave out during a drive and I'm pretty sure piston met valve, luckily I have another set of heads that I can just slap on my car but the timing on these 4Vs seemed a little daunting but now i'm sure I can get this down no problem.
Thank you and sorry to hear about your car. Setting the timing can be intimidating but if you take your time it can be done fairly easy. Let me know if you have any questions.
Why do you think valve hit piston?
That is a very instructive video John. I am from Australia and I have the Ford Boss 5.4Litre 4 valve V8. I take it the procedure is exactly the same. I am just waiting for the Ford kit to turn up from the states and am also replacing the oil pump with a Melling M227 pump.
Thank you. Yes, it will be a similar procedure for the 5.4. The main difference will be that the 5.4 will have two dark chain links for the top and the sprocket tooth will go in between them.
@@JohnSmithRacing Just wondering how many times the motor has to be turned with chains still on to get all dots and links to line up. Have got the primary chain dots and links lined up after rotating the crankshaft numerous times but secondaries are not lined up.
@@garymcphee8284 I don't know exactly but I have heard they only line up every 100 revolutions or something. If you are unsure if the timing is correct you can turn the engine until the secondary chains are pointed up and then just undo the primary chains and line up the links.
@@JohnSmithRacing Hello John, thanks for your reply. I made sure the primary chain dots lined up ok with the primary cogs and then removed the secondary chains and made sure that there were 7 links as per shown on the chains. I have not moved the crankshaft or cams and it all went straight on so should be good. Removing the oil pick up bolts are a real pain when the motor is in the car. Looks like I will have to loosen the sump and let it hang down a bit at the front to put the pickup bolts back in.
Just a tip for those that are trying to move the crankshaft, don't use channel locks or vise grips, if you damage the crankshaft you're risking a oil leak because the oil seal won't seal properly.
good video my brother ,,i got 2004 maruader 112,000 miles on it..eventually im gonna have do my engine it has that rattle sound only when u frist start it up for about few seconds then it goes away..maybe timming chain tensioner latting the chain slap to the oil fill them or hydraullio cylinder in the tensionerare alittle worn
Thank you. Adding a filter with an anti-drain back valve might help as well. Ford Racing makes a really nice filter but the Motorcraft one also has anti-drain in it.
Graet video thank you but could you please show how to advance the cam specially the 96-98 cobra cams on 99 -2004 4V heads I heard it need to be advance 2 or 3 degree thanks again.
Thank you, a video on degreeing cams is a good idea. Its difficult to degree stock cams unless you know the specified centerline. I don't know where that is supposed to be and I am not sure if it is published. There is some movement in the stock cam gears to be had by loosening the bolt and then putting pressure one way or the other while tightening the bolt. You can also file the key way in the sprocket to move it a little more.
@@JohnSmithRacing what was your method for installing the rocker arms
I'm curious ur just gonna use the shove method for all rockers and lash adjusters
Thanks for posting the video,it really helped me out.
Thank you very much for this video, it definitely helped me. Followed every step!
Awsome video.. i just almost messed up and on passenger head i didnt catch where cam gears are flipped.. that would have been bad day for me
I’m looking at getting a 96 cobra that is 100% stock but has a blown head gasket. I’m taking the motor out to do the job. I will be taking the heads to a shop to have them checked to make sure they’re not warped. In your video when you mention turning the crank and not having your cam followers and lash adjusters in there….if I am just taking the heads off and to have them looked at and then just reinstalling them do I need to worry about that as long as I have the colored chain links and timing marks lined up like you showed?
The reason you do not want to rotate the crank without the chains attached is because if there is a valve in the open position you do not want the piston to hit it. If the cams are removed all the valves will be closed and you wouldn't have to worry about piston to valve contact.
Thanks a lot for the information. The little details are what I was looking for. Thanks again,
Will
Thank the ford gods you exist. Great video.
Can you adjust thr crank befor you put the heads on?
Thanks!
No problem, let me know if you have any questions.
@@JohnSmithRacing Could one assemble head/cam it being off the block first and then torque them onto the block?
@@bobbydouglas16 Yes, it can be done. I don't usually do it that way but that doesn't mean its wrong or can't be done. I would just make sure none of the pistons are at top dead center. You don't want to torque a valve into a piston because the timing will not be set yet.
@@JohnSmithRacing understood, with the timing mark at 6 o clock on crank it should good to go right
@@bobbydouglas16 I usually put the crank key at the 12 o clock position, just because its easier to see. No pistons should be at TDC at the 12, 3, 6, & 9 o clock positions. Those positions are for the crankshaft woodruff key
Dude this video is awesome!! Thank you 👍👍
I have question will removing the cam follwers and alone be ok or do I have to remove the lash adjusters as well? I’m doing timing on a 4.6 4v 01 cobra !
Taking the cam followers out will make it easier, but even those don't "have" to come out. The lash adjusters do not need to be removed. However, it is a good idea to bleed them down to make sure a valve doesn't hang open and make putting the cam follower back in easier.
Thank you very much! The pace is just perfect.
do you still need to remove cam followers if you have the crank set at the right position before pulling timing components off?
It can probably be done without removing the followers. You just need to be careful about piston to valve contact.
I turned my crank a little bit in order to get the blue link to line up with the dot on cam gear. The dots all matched up to the blue links but the crank pulley dot was no longer at 6 o’clock. Is this okay or is it out of time?
I do the same thing. As long as the dots line up with the dark links, it doesn't matter if the crank is turned. When everything is where you want it, you should be able to rotate the crank back to the recommended starting point and have everything line up.
@@JohnSmithRacing thank you! You have by far the best videos on setting the time on these engines. I just got mine wrapped up and timing cover put back on thanks to you.
i noticed that your factory sec cam sprockets have built in woodruf keys....my 1996 cobra engine doesnt have any, is it wise to get updated sprockets? love your videos
Thank you for watching. I feel like it is a good idea to use the sprockets with the key on them. However, if you change to that style you need to make sure that your cams are cut deep enough in the keyway for them not to bottom out. I have seen engines with broken sprockets shortly after install because they changed them but the keyway on the cams was not cut deep enough.
@JohnSmithRacing
I made some custom keys for them,since I felt the factory left out this small detail
I made sure the depths were correct for washers and primary sprockets are flush
I didn't want to grind on cams
Thanks for the tech help
Keep up the great videos
I have a quick question I'm doing a timing chain and new cams valve springs when I put the car to top dead center can I take the valve springs and Cam's all out or just the valve adjusters and those other things 1 paise is can I put the car top dead center with all the stuff out of the head
If I am understanding the questions correctly, yes you can. With the piston at TDC on the power stroke both valves will be closed. You can put compressed air into the chamber to hold the valves up as well. Just be careful not to hit the valves on the piston.
Where can I get 98 cobra cams.
What is diference's in the esproket on 1 piece and 2 piece in reference to reluctor
One piece is stronger and needs to be used with the thinner reluctor.
If you put the reluctor wheel on backwards can that cause a crank but no start issue?
Nvm. You answered my question. Looks like im pulling the timing cover off to see if i out that reluctor wheel on backwards smh
@@Travillage You might be able to check by taking the crank position sensor out and trying to look in the hole and see if the wheel is centered in it. A borescope would make it easier to get a good look too.
I know this is an older video, but yeah, GREAT instructional video!! Does this work for aftermarket cams as well?
Thank you and yes this is the same for aftermarket cams but it is also recommended to degree the aftermarket ones.
Is there a part 2 to this video? Looking on how to degree an aftermarket cam
I am about to degree some Comp Cams on a 4V and I will make a video of that when I do.
@@JohnSmithRacing Thank you very much! Looking forward to it! Great Job on your channel!! Great content keep it up!!
@@JohnSmithRacing I'm very interested in setting the timing on the comp cam setup for the 4V. Following you now and thanks for doing these helpful videos. 😎👍
Thanks my friend, the best video on this subject
No problem, there will be more on the way soon.
So on mine I just took apart the secondary can gear doesn't have the keyway slot? Their was no keyway in when I took it apart. How can I hold the cam to the gear correctly?
Are you saying the secondary cam gear doesn't have a key or a slot in it? I believe I have heard of people finding them but I haven't seen them. Can you email me pictures at JohnSmithRacing@outlook.com
Hi John, I have three questions for you.
1. How come you didn't use the OTC crankshaft positioning tool that keeps the crankshaft/piston at TDC.
2. I'm purchasing the Ford Performance 5.3 modular stroker short block #M-6009-B53.
I'm installing my 1998 cobra 4v dual port heads with Comp Cams #106500. Valve lift - intake .475, exh .450. Will these cams work with this stroker motor? They worked fine with my 4.6 cobra motor.
3. Will the Ford Performance 4.6 4v cam shaft drive kit #M-6004-A464 work on this engine combo or is there a better brand out there. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
I have never had the need to the OTC tool, keeping the piston directly on tdc isn't as important as making sure the dots and the dark links line up. As far as the cams, it depends on the piston in the engine but most likely it will be fine. Yes, that timing kit from Ford Performance is a good one to use.
Should I rotate the motor after I put the chains on by hand ? And how many rotations before the marks line back up or will they ? Thanks got mine tore down in car right now
You can rotate it after the chains are on but I prefer not to. Only because I like to be able to verify that the dots are lined up. The marks don't line up that often once it rotates, I heard it was every 100 revolutions or something.
Does this eliminate the need to degree the camshafts? Seems like the darker chain links eliminate the need to degree it, going to be tearing my 03 4v down to the block here in the next couple days to go to aluminum block. Any advice would be greatly appreciated thank you. Also great video.
Thank you. No it doesn't eliminate the cam degree. You don't "need" to degree the cams but its a good idea if you are using aftermarket cams.
@@JohnSmithRacing Ok, I will have to look deeper into that. Thank you again for taking the time to make these videos. It really helps out us backyard gear heads do what we love.
Will this apply to 5.0 coyote 32v dohc as well?
No, the coyote has a different timing procedure.
Hey man so I did this exactly fired up my car and my 02 was reading 35.6. Got a new one still did the same thing, the more and more I started the car it would run worse than eventually not want to run. I did a compression test and I have low compression. Short block had no issues before. So I believe somehow my timing is off any ideas?
Unfortunately it could be a number of things. There could be an issue with the heads. I would try to do a leak-down test to get a better idea of wear the compression is escaping. Also, if the engine is low on one entire side, there is a good chance the timing is off.
Man thank you exactly what I needed for my upcoming build. Subscribed!
Thanks for the sub!
@@JohnSmithRacing same, also subbed
@@Prestiged_peck Thank you, there is more to come.
Do you have to make sure it’s top dead center before removing anything
No, I actually try to make sure no pistons are at TDC before removing everything. That way if the cams move when the chains come off they don't hit a piston.
So it really doesn’t matter if the engine is on compression stroke or exhaust stroke ?
Could you comment on the direction that the key way tapper on the cam sprockets is supposed to face relative to the front of the engine? I noticed on the left side sprockets you had the tapper facing in and on the right side facing out? Is this the only config? I did it exactly as you have in just curious.
Yes, that is correct. One side is flipped to clear and line up the chains.
@@JohnSmithRacing thank you. I’m upgrading a marauder’s engine to an MMR guide and tensioner and secondary chain and tensioner to hopefully get rid of some chain rattle around 2500-3200. Throwing a steige rebuilt Eaton on top as well.
I’ve never done 4V chains but I’m curious about what happens on first start up before primary plungers have their ratchets in the extended position? Is this anything to actually give thought to or will it be resolved within a turn of the starter?
Thanks again you videos are great for the home tech.
@@dsauce8780 The tensioners and even the cam lash adjusters should only take a few seconds to build oil pressure. I usually do a compression test before I fire and engine and that might help get some oil up into the oil gallery. Some people will make a pump thing to pump oil into the engine but I think most just fire it up.
How did you remove the cam followers and valve adjusters? I saw a video of you installing them but not removing maybe it's the same but I want to be sure
I most likely used the same tool. However, if you do not have the tool you can slowly remove the cam girdles to get them out. It is not recommended but if you go slow and evenly, it can be done. I definitely do not recommend putting them back in the same way. The best way to install them is with the proper tool.
Would it be easier to remove the cams without the tool to take the followers out?
@@ballinger214 Yes, it is a lot easier and faster to take them out by removing the girdles with a small electric impact. You just have to try and go slow and evenly when taking the bolts out so the cam does not bind up and break either the girdle or the locating dowels.
@@JohnSmithRacing do you have a part number for that tool? I am having a hard time locating the valve spring compressor tool you used in your other video. Great stuff!
Hey quick question I got my short block back from the machine shop assembled as well as my heads, and they installed my secondary chains on my heads already, can I rotate my block where the keyway needs to be before I put the heads on and have everything lined up before I join the heads to the block so I don’t have to take my cams and adjusters and secondary chains off?
Sorry for the delay in response, I haven't been getting notifications. If the keyway on the crank is positioned straight up all the pistons will be down from TDC and there is less chance of piston to valve contact. Just make sure they have the cams timed together properly.
@@JohnSmithRacing So is it okay to have the lifters, rockers, and cams assembled in the heads before installing them to the block?
I noticed you didnt have them in the heads in this video. I saw you posted a link for a valve spring compression tool for a 2V. Will it work the same for the 4V? I'm assuming you can use that tool to install the lifters and rockers after the timing is doen as shown in your video here?
You never said if you had to have Cyl1 on TDC before you move the crank or does it not matter?
I am not sure if I understand the question. With cylinder 1 at TDC, you line up all the timing marks, and once the chain is on the cam will move in time with the crank.
@@JohnSmithRacing I think he's asking if cylinder 1 is at TDC at the beginning of this video. I think it has to be, correct?
Pretty sure most of this would apply to the Aussie 4v 5.4ltr also. I have one 😁
I'd love to get my hands on a 4.6ltr bottom end to drop into my 4x4. Going to use Holden 5ltr (GM) instead as I already have one in the shed. Much easier to find here than the 4.6ltr mod.
Nice! I have been wanting to get Barra engine over here to put in an SN95. Maybe we can work out a trade?
@@JohnSmithRacing Sorry I should have been clearer. The 5.4ltr 4v boss motor I have in the shed is in my car. A 2007 BF MK2 XR8 in Ego (greyish) 6 speed manual & has less than 50,000 miles one it. It's my fun/enthusiast car not my daily.
Failed to mention to release the ratchets on the tensioners so chain doesn’t jump a tooth on startup 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
He pulled out the pins. That releases the ratchets.
With just the addition of the Cobra cams, how much HP/TQ do you expect to gain?
Most likely not much mark 8 made 290hp 290ish tq the cobras made 300ish HP and 305 ish tq
Ford did not make Hot cams in the early makings of any mod motor
If you can find them for super cheap they're probably worth swapping for
@@jonnathwill8318 what are you talking about? People have made like 15-20whp more on 99-01 cobras with 96-98 cobra intake cams
John that's one of the best video's I've seen on the 4 valve. I'll be rebuilding mine late this year and the one part that made me nervous was degreeing the cams. I've heard there's kits that can assist with that. What do the kits do compared to what you showed on your video? I'm debating between using my Mach 1 cams vs the 98 cobra cams. Thanks
No problem, I use the TrickFlow 4.6 cam degree kit. I can't remember if the piston stop I have came with the kit or not but I had to modify it to work with the 4 thread heads. Comp cams has pretty good instructions on how the process is done. If you can't find the step by step let me know and I can try and post a link.
@@JohnSmithRacing Is it possible to not degree the cams and just line the stock components back up like in your video? I'm hoping to keep everything as simple as posible and don't need peak horsepower. Thanks again.
@@MikesGarageRoute66 Your car will fire up and be just fine without degree'ing the cams. However, I've heard of some cars being 40-50 hp down just by not having the cams properly degree'd. I'd go ahead and do it the right way since everything is apart. Why not?
Great video ... 👌🏻🙏🏻
Very detailed nice🎉🎉🎉
Similar process for a 5.4 GT500?
Yes, but the dot on the primary cam sprockets will be in between two colored chain links. If you would like to see pictures please email us.
How do you get your lifters in. Im rebuilding right now and lost on this timing chain it’s horrifying
I can't seem to find the actual tool I use, but its similar to this: www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24434-Valve-Spring-Compressor/dp/B015NIQOXK/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=4.6+valve+spring+compressor+tool&qid=1593489536&s=automotive&sr=1-7
@@JohnSmithRacing Do you have a video of that tool in use to reinstall the lifters and rockers?
When following your directions in this video, is using that tool the only way to reinstall them after doing the timing?
@@JohnSmithRacing One more question. The link you posted for the vlave spring compressor says it is for the 2V engine. I have a 4V from a 1998 Mark 8. Will it work the same?
Could you do a video on a 5L coyote?
Yes, next time I do one I will make a video.
Why didnt you just pin the secondary tensioners instead of fighting with them?
I dont know haha. I hadnt done a DOHC in a while when I did this video.
Thanks for this !!
Can I use a WAP block for 4v heads?
Yes, the WAP block was used in early 2000 Aviators with DOHC C-Heads
Thank you. One more question. Which measurement is the largest for a 98 cobra bloke? (over bored)
@@reginanunez6099 Stock is 3.552 and most people dont like to go over 3.582 or 0.030 over.
Sorry. One more, I disassembled an engine (98 cobra) whit flat gorged (JE) PISTON and 5933.Fl connecting rod
@@reginanunez6099 whats the question?
Great video though for sure , I like the idea of doing it with out the followers in
Big help thanks, I love your video.....
Thank you, glad it helped.
Great coverage of this topic. Thanks! for torquing the bolts on the ends of the cams, the spec I find in the Ford manual is 30 ft-lbs plus 90 degrees. I'm wondering what to use to react the torque. is the "special tool" meant to react the torque, or do I somehow use the sprocket(s)? Thanks in advance.
Thank you. If you are asking how to hold the camshafts to torque them, you can use a pipe wrench, a ratchet in the back of the cam, or there is a special tool designed to hold the cam. The bolts are supposed to be one time use but I have heard of them being used again and torqued to 90-100 lbft with locktite. I tend to use ARP ones that are reusable.
@@JohnSmithRacing Thanks, that's helpful. I just didn't want to be applying torque through the camshaft if it wasn't meant to take it, and I didn't know if that tool was only meant to index the position or to actually take the torque. I guess once the chains are all in place, there could be an option of holding the position at the crankshaft front too. Disassembling tomorrow. Thanks for the help.
@@steveperez1178 Its fine, I use a big pipe wrench in the middle if I am installing factory cams. I would not try holding the crank due to the load on all the timing components.
thanks alot my brother
This is a great how to vid
I see most people use dial indicators when decreeing the cams why arnt you?
Because I wasn't degreeing the cams, I was setting the timing.
Can u call me and walk me threw the steps on this 4.6.
hell yeah brother!
The cobra has a forged crank. That's the MAIN difference between mark viii and cobra. That motor will scream in your gt!
Was just going to post this!
Thank you very helpful
Did you just reinstall old timing parts back into the motor? That was a used tensioner. And those 2 piece crank pulley are a joke. And the 1 piece sprockets are cheap. And so is new guides and tensioners. Hopefully this wasn't a customers car. If it was and your reusing all those wearable parts I would be pissed. Nobody and I mean NO mechanic with an ounce of actual pride in his work would have a motor ON AN ENGINE stand and put used timing PARTS back in.
I'm insulted. You forgot about the mach1 lol
Did you have to grind the right side sprocket key way to fit Cobra Cams?
Hi I’m wondering the same, did you figure it out?
Thanks!
So when youre installing Manley rods into a 4v do you have to take out all 4 Cams?
Thanks very helpful