Self Diagnostic Test - Maytag Bravos Washer
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- Опубліковано 12 лют 2023
- This video walks through how to get your Maytag Bravos Washing Machine to start its self-diagnostic test. This can be useful to help you determine what is wrong with it. It is a pre-configured routine that takes about 5 minutes to complete, where the washer steps through all of its functions. If it runs into a problem, or cannot complete a step, then it will stop and give you the code indicating which step was the problem.
Here, we go through how to start the self-test and what each step means.
These are the series of steps:
C0 is slow spin mode.
C1 is where the hot and cold-water valves open.
C2 is when the cold water and bleach valves open.
C3 is when the hot water and fabric softener valves open.
C4 is where the hot and cold water and detergent valves open.
C5 was a pause for mine.
C6 is the agitator.
C7 is the circulation pump.
C8 is the drain pump.
And C9 is the end.
If it stops at any one of these steps, that means there’s your problem. For example, if the self-test stops on C8, it means that your drain pump is bad, and it cannot pump out the water.
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I got code F81 and my kid is locked and it won’t open can someone help
Hi, washer drains before adding any water? Clothes are still very dirty after 2 x washed. Plz help
Great video, I think something is wrong with C1 because it filled the tub up over half. I had to hit pause and it drained and went to C2 then right to C3. After that it finished. I know these washers aren’t supposed to fill up all the way or even halfway? What do you think?
????
Got code f51
Wires were chewed up
Thanks for this video 🙏
Oh nice, glad you got it figured out
After going through press and hold instead of diagnostic test it shows normal and start buttons flashing with 0:59 as time. What am I doing wrong
What if my Bravos doesn't have an LCD screen? How can I run that test?
same model, this qont work for me at all what am I doing wrong
My washer gets to C8 and the drum slowly goes back and forth but will not spin.
My machine goes wild, everything works fine, did the self test.
The issue with mine is, it bangs around when spun cycle starts, I changed the suspension springs and still bangs around.
How do you recommend resolving this issue??
Hey dude, did you ever get your answer? Im in the same boat my man.
Got code “du” removed the old lid latch plugged in the new one. When I plug in the machine the latch will click a few times and return with code “du”. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
You're right to suspect the door latch. The dU error code relates to the door lock assembly not working properly. Odd that replacing the lid latch didn't fix the problem. Makes me wonder if the latch can't lock somehow, like the catch is clogged or not lined up evenly?!?
Anyway, good luck, hope you get it figured out!
Passed all the test codes. I get LF code when we do larger/heavy loads. It’s fine with smaller loads. Any idea?
LF stands for "long fill." It is taking your machine longer than normal to fill up with water. Larger loads may take more water which would take longer than smaller loads. Check for a clogged or kinked fill hose. Good luck! 👍
What if I can’t get to plug to unplug
How long will the c1 last? And the c 8?
My C1 was about 2:15 and C8 about 1 min. All the rest were 5 to 10 seconds each.
Mine went to f32 and never made a sound or changed from this code. What does this mean?
F32 means problem with the drain. (Long Drain) Check the drain pump or connections to the drain for clogs.
How long between each test yours was short mine is still on c1 after 2 minutes
C1 takes about 2 minutes 45 seconds on mine... (You can rotate the knob clockwise to skip to the next step if you want.)
Initally, for an F72 error code. Ran the diagnostic mode, and it stays on C8 with moving to C9. Please help
C8 is a bad drain pump. It doesn't move on to c9 because it never finishes draining. Replace the drain pump. Here is how you replace the drain pump:
ua-cam.com/video/e8HaOLZh3Hg/v-deo.html
👍
I got an OL code during c1, what could this mean?
Did you find an answer to this question?
Can you help with a C1 F3 code?
Hi! C1 is the part of the cycle where the hot and cold water valves open, and F3 is usually related to the water level sensor. This suggests that perhaps your water level sensor is bad, disconnected, or otherwise not working properly. Hope this helps, good luck! 👍
I have the same model, this qont work for me at all.
Try pressing a different button if it’s not too late. I had to press extra rinse instead of Fabric Softener
Tried this on an older model..didn’t work.
Thanks for the data point, @Helechawagirl. What is the model number/year of your unit?
What does F51 mean?
Usually this means the 1/4“ hex (Allen) bolt on the bottom of you washer is loose. To fix it, tip the washer about 45 deg, have a helper hold it, then reach under with a 1/4“ Allen wrench and tighten it up.
Good luck, let me know if it works! 👍
@@PracticalMechanic mine does the same code and the 1/4 hex bolt you said was loose I tightened it…. Ran one complete cycle fine now giving the code again but the bolt is still tight
Alright, then there are 2 other things can cause f51.
1. Remove the hex bolt and the rotor. There is a very large 1 1/4 inch nut that may also be loose. Tighten that up, too.
2. The RPS sensor may be bad or misaligned. Re-align it or replace it.
Good luck 👍 Let us know how it goes
I got F32
F32 refers to "Long Drain" Error. This is usually a result of something clogging your drain hose or drain pump. Make sure nothing got sucked into the drain pump, like a small sock or hair binder. Also make sure the drain hose isn't crimped. The F32 error can also refer to a failed or failing drain pump. Hope this helps.