Quick reminder, here's Amazon links for most products mentioned: www.amazon.co.uk/shop/gosforthhandyman I've also added some extra ones I forgot about incl. Johnstone's Covaplus (this is now our preferred matt white for big areas, ceilings etc.) and Johnstone's StainAway as a stain blocker - expensive but works. As I say not sponsored so really appreciated if you use the links - thank you! 👍😎
Big fan of leyland trade paint.. has never let me down. A tip i learned and use regularly is when you are painting a "smokers" house and the nicotene would bleed through emulsion /acrylic paint Use leyland trade oil based undercoat first . A coat of it then your preferred emulsion itll never bleed through.
Zinsser DIF is amazing stuff. Used this when we bought our house and stripped 40 years of wallpaper from the walls in a 3 bed terrace in one day. Not sure how good it is environmentally but wow, no heat guns and no steamers. It literally falls off the wall in some places.
Hi Andy, Thank you for making this video. I have found it very useful as I am 50% of the way though renovating my house and things like plastering, painting and woodwork are going to be coming up in the next few weeks. I think I would need to look into it a little more because I really like the look of bare oiled or waxed wood (floors, doors, skirting boards etc etc) but I like tight lines so no gaps and the thought of having small nails from a nail gun just doesn't sit right. Thank you for talking to about how you have done things and why that has been a massive help in the planing of what I am doing to mine.
Great video Andy. I agree with so many of these products you used. No nonesense caulk is my go to caulk. It's cheap but OK if used correct. Top tip, save the used nozzles if using lots of tubes and they can be used on the other tubes when the end goes hard. Leyland Acrylic primer undercoat is also another favourite of mine. I have even used it under white emulsion paint when the sunstrate is being dodgy. I have not used the Everbuild stuff before I will definitley give it a try on my next project. Keep up the great work Andy and lets not forget Mrs Mac.
That purple No Nonsense decorator's caulk is like magic in a tube. A pleasure to apply and work with AND it's paintable. I've also had problems with Screwfix's grab adhesive in the past but i think they've reworked it, and the latest batch is sold in a grey tube.
Hi Andy yes I have tried many of the products in your Video , and one in particular we did have a problem with which was the Leyland water based undercoat. It didn’t seem to like going over existing Dulux oil based satin finish , and could be literally scraped off the next day . The paint had been throughly sanded down , but for us it didn’t work. But of course like you others will not have a problem . As a go to adhesive I’ve been using screw fix OB1 which has been a revelation, I’ve used it on my new workshop which is a concrete panel design . Because it’s not practical to drill into the concrete , I’ve used the OB1 to stick wood to the surface which I have then fixed shelving and even cupboards to . I defy anyone to pull the wood from the concrete once it set . But I will try the instant nails , because it’s definitely a lot cheaper Best wishes as always 😀👍👍👍
That's interesting on the Leyland undercoat! Was it just undercoat or primer undercoat? As I say, never had an issue yet - even over gloss paint and pvc. Useful info! 👍
IPA is great for cleaning a surface to which you wish to apply something else e.g. caulk or a glue. Also great for cleaning you specs. Acetone is way more agressive and will melt your CDs (polycarbonate) if you try and clean them with it.
Great vid, with some good tips particularly the adhesive... I had a bathroom fitter go through about 10 tubes of sticks like, what he was doing with them I have no idea. Can I add two more suggestions for paint/undercoat: Zinnser BIN for going over wood without sanding it down or 123 for going over weird surfaces like plastic or fibreglass or whatever. Both great products and massive time savers
Just bought some nail polish remover yesterday making sure it's the acetone one. Vinegar has a multitude of uses - use it in the washing machine to descale as well. Got a bottle of isopropyl to clean records, but have found it useful for so many things. Used superglue to make small floating frames - worked great. Used a stanley knife to clean up any squeeze out I missed. I used Ronseal two pack filler for all the old doors and the letterbox (it was tiny but had a huge slope - widened it and filled in the slope), filled in missing architrave and fireplace mantel, which I carved/sanded to shape when dried. Filing down a lot of suggestions. Good to see another fan of Twiglets.
I'm not normally one to pay attention to dates on things but Pinkgrip it's worth making sure it isn't too far beyond, when it gets old (even unopened tubes) it does get thick and skin a lot quicker.
Time to show you a few of our favourite things. Twiglets front and centre 👍😂. So other than Twiglets.. (also a favourite here!) I also always use Dow silicone. Also now only use Pinkgrip after having same issues with Gripfill. However I use solvent free version mostly. Toupret is my go to filler. And also rate the Leyland primer/undercoat.
Great video Andy, solvents as in sticky removal I use Ronson lighter petrol or nail polish remover , bonding on block or brickwork I use Hard as nails or No nails about 25 years ago When I installed power to my garage and workshop back in the day when I was aloud to I put 10 double sockets up in a 30 amp ring main I used no nails as well as screws a bit belt and braces about 2 years ago I wanted to move a socket ,taken the screws out and after all this time it was still bonded to the wall I ended up smashing the plastic back box off it is good strong glue Fillers some times poly filler or no nails I will have to try Twigglets! as all ways great video a lot of tips and options my ears are open to good advice Thanks Andy take care mate, see you on the next video
Hi there. Thanks so much for this information - it's really useful to those of us who don't do this enough to figure out what is the best thing to use (without a lot of heartache at least!). They don't seem to sell Screwfix No Nonsense Trade Bare Plaster Paint any more, and instead Screwfix sells Fortress Trade Matt Emulsion Bare Plaster Paint. Have you had any experience with the Fortress paint for painting bare plaster?
If your in a jam and need accelerate for superglue you can use lynx body spray deodorant !, my brother is a window fitter and saw him do it. Ct1 is expensive but the king of adhesives. OB1 is the new kid on the block for paintable calk/ adhesive. Again if you in a jam you can stick just about anything with cheap silocone even skirting board, once dry u will struggle getting it off. For removing Sticky stuff use "multi solve" doesn't have any harsh chemicals and works amazing! Cheers Andy loved this one👍
TBH, the absolute best CA kicker/accelerator is from Bob Smith Industries (and ZAP) - kicks off CA INSTANTLY - not like the awful stuff from Screwfix/Mitrefix etc. It smells tho :-) It's used regularly in the model hobby world - flying model planes etc
For paints, I've found Dulux are generally decent, superb mixing options as you mention - I usually go for the trade variants from a local builders merchant as they generally just go further and easier, and will mix absolutely any colour you can imagine. Had immense problems with their quick dry and, in the past, diamond satinwood, though. Amazing durable finish when you get it there, but an absolute nightmare to get a nice finish with - I've tried watering it down, floetrol, wet brushes, every type of roller sleeve, and it still either ends up looking like it was applied with a comb, or the surface of the moon. One of these days I'll try spraying it, just because I haven't yet.. Does the Leyland behave much better than the Dulux, in your experience? E: Oh, yes, and it just cracks on caulk like there's no tomorrow. Peel stop's a life saver - the previous owners here didn't mist a single wall in the extension and it's just peeling and bubbling every time you look at it funny. Scrape, sand, peel stop, a little filler over the scratches, then primer to cover the colour and it's fixed. Expensive, but it pays in the time and frustration saved.
Used to use the Trade stuff all the time but the place that mixed it shut down... so back to Wickes and the non-trade stuff. Generally been fine. Yup, also had issues with Dulux Quick Dry! Leyland - you defo get brush marks and it dries INCREDIBLY quickly, but it doesn't 'ball up' (which is what the Dulux was doing... but that was many moons ago). So as long as you apply and lay it off immediately in quite thin coats it's fine. 😁👍
I'm pleased you kept the lids on when making this video. My new favourite paint is Zinsser perma white, bit expensive but it leaves a great satin finish & it's mould resistant other than that no problems with any of the no nonsense stuff from S/F ( not quoting their full name unless they pay me 😅) normally use Dulux emulsions however on the orders of her indoors I tried some of the Good Home stuff from the place that sells the curved timber & found it very good.
When I went to buy tiles, the tile shop sold me the "Grout Protector", it is a kind of liquid to paint over the grout. Does that work, is it worth doing?
In Australia: Methylated spirits = methylated spirits! I've used the two-in-one primers from Dulux on plasterboard with success, and wouldn't skimp on paint in water areas, but would agree on your comments on paint in general and only use oil based on the exterior. Thanks for the peel stop tip - Zinsser products are so good, but not heard of this one.
Alcohol desnaturalizado is called in México We use it on edgebanding machine to prevent the hotmelt stick to the faces of melamine, applied with sponge for makeup at the inlet and before the gluescraper saludos Gerardo
Leyland do a "hardwearing matt" which I'm a big fan of, can be used on wood and walls and is cheaper than the fast drying stuff and it dries very fast too!
I think with paints it is fine to go with medium range if you are in need of a contractor white or magnolia. For colour I've tried them all and a lot of the fancy brands the paint performs terribly. I wouldn't touch F&B anymore, it just lays on very poorly with very poor coverage and obliteration. However, I now pay probably twice as much for my paint and some people will say its mad but unless you have tried Paint and Paper Library paint you will not understand. Best colour paint I've ever used to the point of being a tad over-enthusiastic. It might cost twice as much but it goes on like an absolute dream and will go a very long way. Love the stuff. No affiliation by the way.
Hello Andy, thanks for the video this is incredibly useful. I have a bit of a problem left by a tiler where the silicone (black on white tiles) he's used seems to have stained some of the tiles, I assume where he's tried to wipe excess away and it's not been cleaned properly. Anything you recommend to try this? Cheers and love the videos 👍
I used to use Dulux all of the time. However I had no end of problems with both the emulsion and gloss when paint last year. I used the b&q home tough and durable and that has been great.
Great vid Andy. I totally agree with you on oil based paints. Dulux water based gloss is rubbish for yellowing. Johnsons water based gloss I'm 50/50 on that. Wilko's water based is one of the best for staying white - one problem only comes in small tins. Ceilings wouldn't go past Crown Trade Covermatt obliterating Emulsion it says white for years.
Ronseal stay white ultra tough paint is brilliant. I use it all the time. I bought second hand solid wood doors that had been stripped but had woodworm holes, numerous holes from door furniture so no way staying raw wood. With sanding, Ronseal two part filler more sanding then Ronseal white primer, undercoat and knotting all in one then Ronseal stay white ultra tough satin they look amazing 😊
Interesting stuff Andy. Personally I’ve never had any issues with the Screwfix box standard grab adhesive and I’ve used it on loads of skirtings, architraves etc so maybe you had a dodgy batch or the primer was the issue. That said I’ll give the instant nails ago and report back!
About 2 years ago I did my house in dulux brilliant white but some parts of the walls need a touch up and I don’t want to pay for a full tin just to do some finishing touches. My question is, if I bought a cheaper branded paint such as wilkinsons brilliant white, would the shade of colour be noticeable?
Paints I like Johnstones Trade, Covaplus for ceilings it's super flat, cheap and goes on well not great on walls as it gets a sheen if you wipe it down. For walls I prefer their durable matt vinyl it's pretty flat, cuts in nicely, touches up well and can be wiped down ok within reason. Wood finish I'm totally the opposite to you, primer Zinsser BIN is amazing stuff, yes it's expensive but it goes far and seals a treat. Finish paint Dulux trade satin wood it flows out nice and smooth when left to dry and it's tough as anything, it is oil based but I haven't seen any yellowing over 3 years since I started using it and being an oil based it can take a good scrubbing. I've never understood why people love titebond so much, I generally use Everbuild 502 it's a lot cheaper and you're still going to break the wood before the bond if you try and get it apart, never had anything fail with it. The PU glues are useful in the right circumstances, the gap filling properties are handy but it is messy! Everbuild Lumberjack is what I have been using, go for the 30 min set over the 5 min you need a bit of time to get things together and it generally starts expanding quicker than that.
What are peoples thoughts on the no nonsense plaster paint VS a standard watered down mist coat for price/effort? I have bought my first house, knocked it down to brick and its finally getting plastered. If I look on screwfix I can get 20L of leylands contract paint for the same price as the no nonsense plaster 10L paint, and I will also be watering the leylands paint down so I suspect I will get a lot better coverage / value? I will be leaving 95% of the walls white though, and I will need to buy separate finishing paint with leylands to cover the mist coat, but I guess that is not needed with the no nonsense paint? Any thoughts appreciated!
I've just had too many issues with watering down contract paint, so not doing it any more 😁. We might have just been unlucky - bad batch, weather conditions etc. Might be worth buying a tub of each to compare and contrast. 👍
The no nonsense stuff is the 👑 ...it's the only thing on my ceiling and coving as a top coat too and it looks great months later, flat and hides all marks. It's a dream to use
A word of caution! I used "white spirit" for cleaning coins. I started getting unexplained headaches, and only months later I discovered my near constant use may be the cause. My problem has gone, since stopping the use, but there are many other solvents that may have undesirable consequences. I am told by a friend, that many solvents like carbon tetrachloride, and trichloroethane were used as anaesthetics in the past! Always work in a well ventilated space!!!
Thanks Andy, lot's of great information here, I shall share it with my "Kids" as I'm starting to get a lot of questions on this sort of thing ! What do you use for outside gloss whitework and do you still use the grey undercoat for this, also, any advice in dealing with resinous knots, I've tried Knotting, heating with a heat gun and wiping off with solvent and even Zinsser Bin but still having problems ! The 35 minute video isn't a problem, but I'll be reading the comments for the next two hours ! 🤣 🤣
Cheers Andy! I'm also hoping my kids will refer to my vids first while we're on a beach somewhere. 😂 Must admit I haven't used white paint outside for a LONG time so would be interested to hear others opinions on this. I'd be tempted to use the acrylic primer undercoat and then possibly Zinsser Allcoat Exterior Satin White. Need to test this. 👍
External paint work, Sandolin SupaDec brilliant. No primer or undercoat easy to use and lasts. Leyland undercoat brilliant on MDF as a primer Edit: Zinsser products are fantastic for problem surfaces Edit edit: Touprep great powder filler. Two types internal and external Wood glue. Everbuild D4. PVA external £14.50 for a litre, very good value Caulk, Geocel very good, paint goes on well, does not crack
Great Video Andy. I use Soudal Caulk, just a s cheap as screwfix brand and slumps a little less on slightly larger gaps. Won't use pink grip as didn't work to well on our skirtings and other things. Everbuild stuff is great, Instant nails is my goto. Regarding paint: The worst I have ever had was the B&Q own brands, just awful, terrible coverage and really scratchy. I have used expensive brands and cheaper ones but my go to emulsion paint is Wickes. Great value and lovely paint , covers well and goes on lovely. Will try the leyland satin but I really like the dulux quick dry satin.
Everbuold instant nails is the dogs...use it all the time and to date it's never let me down...if I need some really strong adhesive then I use sticks like shit or the dogs bollox.
Hi love the channel loads of great tips. To remove label residue etc I use “sticky stuff remover” it works great and appears to be safe on most surfaces and is only about £5 to buy.
You said you won't use contract matt again but the trade bare plaster is contract matt. I bought the leyland trade satinwood after you gave it good reviews but it's a load of rubbish as I find you don't get a wet edge so it leaves roller marks on doors.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video, Andy. Very helpful. I'm a fan of Zinsser BIN... very good primer for wood (seals knots) and also metal. Also a fan of PVA glue, both waterproof and non-waterproof... PVA has many uses.
Re gloss and satin going yellow Although it's water-based, it contains an alkyd (or oil) carrier, so it’s a mix of water and oil. So will yellow a bit. Read up on it
Great video, some really useful products that it is good to have recommendations for. Thanks. Could you do an updated tools you use vid that would be useful for DIYers to have. The only thing I would add is "Mr Hobby T-116 Tool Cleaner R" which I use for cleaning my airbrush. If acetone or other solvents don't work that usually does the job. Great for stuff that you forgot to clean. Expensive but worth it for occasional use.
Acetone, last resort? May I introduce you to Methyl Ethyl Ketone - the other other angry solvent in solvent cement. IPA's a nice gentle solvent for ink and paint markers, some adhesives, generally most plastics and solvent based paints are immune to it so it's a fairly safe first try. Both methylated spirits and acetone are good at removing uncured styrene fillers - two part wood filler, decorfill, etc. I've gone past scraping them off my tools and switched to just wiping them clean off with a rag before they cure, much easier. Vinegar's also good, being acidic, at removing weak cement - stains on clothes, little dabs on surfaces, etc, without being as vicious as brick acid.
I'm not a painter or decorator but I think contract Matt isn't designed for doing mist coats. It seems to have plasticisers in which could explain the peeling. We just use the cheap 10l Leyland or crown brilliant white tubs and water them down a bit. Goes on like milk but dries solid. never had any issues like shown, just wait for the plaster to dry first, which reminds me contract can go on fresh plaster apparently
Yeah, not sure - there's certainly instructions on the contract matt for using it as a mist coat. It could have been a dodgy batch! Got a vid coming up with a bit more info. 👍
Screwfix "No Nonsence" degreaser is cheap and fantastic for bike chains, carpet cleaner, paint brushes (oil-based AND shellac). Just rinse out in water.
Leyland paint worka well for us. In fact the whole house has had leyland trade paint and covers really well. Cif works well for getting dirt off pvc and also scuff marks on wooded door thresholds.
Not a massive fan of Amazon either but agreed you should get something for your recommendation. Will be using your links Andy for any bits and bobs I'll definitely need
Surprised to hear about the issue with the no nonsense solvent free adhesive, I done all sorts with that stuff as the only fixing and had no issues with it. I liked pinkgrip but found it would sometimes blow out the side of the tube and bend the plunger on the gun so I switched to the pinkgrip solvent free but with prices being what they are these days for everything I thought id give a cheaper option a try and im glad i did really, saved a fortune since switching to it. I agree with you on the no nonsense caulk, for the money that stuff can't be beaten!
Highly recommend Dulux Scuffshield paint for high traffic areas or if you’ve got a big muddy dog likes ours. You can literally take a damp cloth and remove dried in mud and grime off the walls and it doesn’t leave any marks.
Hi Andy, Thank you soooooooooo much for this video - I've saved it in my "useful tips" folder. While I totally support your quest for affiliate links from Screwfix and Toolstation etc, the challenge that they have (assuming that there is a business case for them to do it) is that both of them seem to have IT systems that are quite antique (a simple example is that neither of them have very good search capability compared to amazon) - adding an "affiliate" capability may well be quite expensive to add :(
![Which Glue When? [video 542]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yEQYirGvWCs/mqdefault.jpg)
Quick reminder, here's Amazon links for most products mentioned: www.amazon.co.uk/shop/gosforthhandyman
I've also added some extra ones I forgot about incl. Johnstone's Covaplus (this is now our preferred matt white for big areas, ceilings etc.) and Johnstone's StainAway as a stain blocker - expensive but works. As I say not sponsored so really appreciated if you use the links - thank you! 👍😎
Big fan of leyland trade paint.. has never let me down.
A tip i learned and use regularly is when you are painting a "smokers" house and the nicotene would bleed through emulsion /acrylic paint
Use leyland trade oil based undercoat first . A coat of it then your preferred emulsion itll never bleed through.
Zinsser DIF is amazing stuff. Used this when we bought our house and stripped 40 years of wallpaper from the walls in a 3 bed terrace in one day. Not sure how good it is environmentally but wow, no heat guns and no steamers. It literally falls off the wall in some places.
Think we used this too! Used a couple of different chemical strippers. 👍
Yes zinsser DIF and the tiger stripper wheel system is a game changer for removing wallpaper!
Hi Andy, Thank you for making this video. I have found it very useful as I am 50% of the way though renovating my house and things like plastering, painting and woodwork are going to be coming up in the next few weeks. I think I would need to look into it a little more because I really like the look of bare oiled or waxed wood (floors, doors, skirting boards etc etc) but I like tight lines so no gaps and the thought of having small nails from a nail gun just doesn't sit right. Thank you for talking to about how you have done things and why that has been a massive help in the planing of what I am doing to mine.
No worries and good luck with yours! It's a real challenge having bare wood skirts and archs with no gaps. 😁👍
Great video Andy. I agree with so many of these products you used.
No nonesense caulk is my go to caulk. It's cheap but OK if used correct. Top tip, save the used nozzles if using lots of tubes and they can be used on the other tubes when the end goes hard.
Leyland Acrylic primer undercoat is also another favourite of mine. I have even used it under white emulsion paint when the sunstrate is being dodgy.
I have not used the Everbuild stuff before I will definitley give it a try on my next project.
Keep up the great work Andy and lets not forget Mrs Mac.
What a really useful video. Cheers for that.
No worries!
That purple No Nonsense decorator's caulk is like magic in a tube. A pleasure to apply and work with AND it's paintable. I've also had problems with Screwfix's grab adhesive in the past but i think they've reworked it, and the latest batch is sold in a grey tube.
I just bought the no nonsense caulk but it is not purple? Is that the old design or is it the same? I'm confused now lol
Hi Andy yes I have tried many of the products in your Video , and one in particular we did have a problem with which was the Leyland water based undercoat. It didn’t seem to like going over existing Dulux oil based satin finish , and could be literally scraped off the next day . The paint had been throughly sanded down , but for us it didn’t work. But of course like you others will not have a problem . As a go to adhesive I’ve been using screw fix OB1 which has been a revelation, I’ve used it on my new workshop which is a concrete panel design . Because it’s not practical to drill into the concrete , I’ve used the OB1 to stick wood to the surface which I have then fixed shelving and even cupboards to . I defy anyone to pull the wood from the concrete once it set . But I will try the instant nails , because it’s definitely a lot cheaper Best wishes as always 😀👍👍👍
That's interesting on the Leyland undercoat! Was it just undercoat or primer undercoat? As I say, never had an issue yet - even over gloss paint and pvc. Useful info! 👍
IPA is great for cleaning a surface to which you wish to apply something else e.g. caulk or a glue. Also great for cleaning you specs. Acetone is way more agressive and will melt your CDs (polycarbonate) if you try and clean them with it.
I have used the no nonsense bare plaster paint on the bathroom and then Dulux bathroom 2 years and still looks new
Seems like a great product! 👍
Great vid, with some good tips particularly the adhesive... I had a bathroom fitter go through about 10 tubes of sticks like, what he was doing with them I have no idea.
Can I add two more suggestions for paint/undercoat: Zinnser BIN for going over wood without sanding it down or 123 for going over weird surfaces like plastic or fibreglass or whatever. Both great products and massive time savers
Easifill 60 - I broke a big bag down into large ziploc bags and it's lasted for ages and mixes well and spreads well.
Good plan. Yup, I've never found EasyFill goes off like normal plaster. I've got a bag that's been open for 2+ years and it's still fine. 👍
I used to use easy fill but now use toupret joint fill and skim it is much better than easy fill..give it a go..
Just bought some nail polish remover yesterday making sure it's the acetone one. Vinegar has a multitude of uses - use it in the washing machine to descale as well. Got a bottle of isopropyl to clean records, but have found it useful for so many things. Used superglue to make small floating frames - worked great. Used a stanley knife to clean up any squeeze out I missed. I used Ronseal two pack filler for all the old doors and the letterbox (it was tiny but had a huge slope - widened it and filled in the slope), filled in missing architrave and fireplace mantel, which I carved/sanded to shape when dried. Filing down a lot of suggestions. Good to see another fan of Twiglets.
Cheers Jules! 2 part filler is a life saver. Can be used for so many things and there's very little it won't stick to. 👍👍
Johnstones Aqua gloss is a hybrid it is oil and water based that’s why it still yellows but not as quick as oil only
I'm not normally one to pay attention to dates on things but Pinkgrip it's worth making sure it isn't too far beyond, when it gets old (even unopened tubes) it does get thick and skin a lot quicker.
Defo - I've had that issue to. Much 'looser' when it's brand new. 👍
Time to show you a few of our favourite things. Twiglets front and centre 👍😂. So other than Twiglets.. (also a favourite here!) I also always use Dow silicone. Also now only use Pinkgrip after having same issues with Gripfill. However I use solvent free version mostly. Toupret is my go to filler. And also rate the Leyland primer/undercoat.
Another thumbs up for Toupret interior filler.
Cheers! Haven't tried the solvent-free Pink Grip - will give that a shot at some point!
Totally knew to all of this, what kind of primer should I use before applying caulk to skirting boards/wood??
Great video Andy, solvents as in sticky removal I use Ronson lighter petrol or nail polish remover , bonding on block or brickwork I use Hard as nails or No nails about 25 years ago When I installed power to my garage and workshop back in the day when I was aloud to I put 10 double sockets up in a 30 amp ring main I used no nails as well as screws a bit belt and braces about 2 years ago I wanted to move a socket ,taken the screws out and after all this time it was still bonded to the wall I ended up smashing the plastic back box off it is good strong glue Fillers some times poly filler or no nails I will have to try Twigglets! as all ways great video a lot of tips and options my ears are open to good advice Thanks Andy take care mate, see you on the next video
Cheers Shaun! 👍
Hi there. Thanks so much for this information - it's really useful to those of us who don't do this enough to figure out what is the best thing to use (without a lot of heartache at least!). They don't seem to sell Screwfix No Nonsense Trade Bare Plaster Paint any more, and instead Screwfix sells Fortress Trade Matt Emulsion Bare Plaster Paint. Have you had any experience with the Fortress paint for painting bare plaster?
If your in a jam and need accelerate for superglue you can use lynx body spray deodorant !, my brother is a window fitter and saw him do it. Ct1 is expensive but the king of adhesives. OB1 is the new kid on the block for paintable calk/ adhesive. Again if you in a jam you can stick just about anything with cheap silocone even skirting board, once dry u will struggle getting it off. For removing Sticky stuff use "multi solve" doesn't have any harsh chemicals and works amazing! Cheers Andy loved this one👍
TBH, the absolute best CA kicker/accelerator is from Bob Smith Industries (and ZAP) - kicks off CA INSTANTLY - not like the awful stuff from Screwfix/Mitrefix etc. It smells tho :-) It's used regularly in the model hobby world - flying model planes etc
what flavour lynx? I just used "africa" and it didn't work. I'm not joking. It went all powdery and wierd.
Interesting! Also, tried baking soda mixed with water recently... and that worked (as an activator). 👍
Ultragrime wipes are great. They are great from everything from kitchen grease to paint.
Yup - very handy!
For paints, I've found Dulux are generally decent, superb mixing options as you mention - I usually go for the trade variants from a local builders merchant as they generally just go further and easier, and will mix absolutely any colour you can imagine. Had immense problems with their quick dry and, in the past, diamond satinwood, though. Amazing durable finish when you get it there, but an absolute nightmare to get a nice finish with - I've tried watering it down, floetrol, wet brushes, every type of roller sleeve, and it still either ends up looking like it was applied with a comb, or the surface of the moon. One of these days I'll try spraying it, just because I haven't yet.. Does the Leyland behave much better than the Dulux, in your experience? E: Oh, yes, and it just cracks on caulk like there's no tomorrow.
Peel stop's a life saver - the previous owners here didn't mist a single wall in the extension and it's just peeling and bubbling every time you look at it funny. Scrape, sand, peel stop, a little filler over the scratches, then primer to cover the colour and it's fixed. Expensive, but it pays in the time and frustration saved.
Used to use the Trade stuff all the time but the place that mixed it shut down... so back to Wickes and the non-trade stuff. Generally been fine. Yup, also had issues with Dulux Quick Dry! Leyland - you defo get brush marks and it dries INCREDIBLY quickly, but it doesn't 'ball up' (which is what the Dulux was doing... but that was many moons ago). So as long as you apply and lay it off immediately in quite thin coats it's fine. 😁👍
I'm pleased you kept the lids on when making this video. My new favourite paint is Zinsser perma white, bit expensive but it leaves a great satin finish & it's mould resistant other than that no problems with any of the no nonsense stuff from S/F ( not quoting their full name unless they pay me 😅) normally use Dulux emulsions however on the orders of her indoors I tried some of the Good Home stuff from the place that sells the curved timber & found it very good.
Useful to know! 👍
When I went to buy tiles, the tile shop sold me the "Grout Protector", it is a kind of liquid to paint over the grout. Does that work, is it worth doing?
In Australia: Methylated spirits = methylated spirits! I've used the two-in-one primers from Dulux on plasterboard with success, and wouldn't skimp on paint in water areas, but would agree on your comments on paint in general and only use oil based on the exterior. Thanks for the peel stop tip - Zinsser products are so good, but not heard of this one.
Interesting Mandy! I had no idea you could get Dulux in Oz! 👍😁
Alcohol desnaturalizado is called in México
We use it on edgebanding machine to prevent the hotmelt stick to the faces of melamine, applied with sponge for makeup at the inlet and before the gluescraper
saludos
Gerardo
Interesting and greetings to Mexico! I hope to visit one day. 👍😎
Leyland do a "hardwearing matt" which I'm a big fan of, can be used on wood and walls and is cheaper than the fast drying stuff and it dries very fast too!
Will check it out! 👍
I think with paints it is fine to go with medium range if you are in need of a contractor white or magnolia. For colour I've tried them all and a lot of the fancy brands the paint performs terribly. I wouldn't touch F&B anymore, it just lays on very poorly with very poor coverage and obliteration. However, I now pay probably twice as much for my paint and some people will say its mad but unless you have tried Paint and Paper Library paint you will not understand. Best colour paint I've ever used to the point of being a tad over-enthusiastic. It might cost twice as much but it goes on like an absolute dream and will go a very long way. Love the stuff. No affiliation by the way.
Interesting! Certainly worth it if it makes the job any more pleasurable! 😁👍
Hello Andy, thanks for the video this is incredibly useful.
I have a bit of a problem left by a tiler where the silicone (black on white tiles) he's used seems to have stained some of the tiles, I assume where he's tried to wipe excess away and it's not been cleaned properly. Anything you recommend to try this?
Cheers and love the videos 👍
I used to use Dulux all of the time. However I had no end of problems with both the emulsion and gloss when paint last year. I used the b&q home tough and durable and that has been great.
I swear they're all made in the same factory anyway. 😂👍
Great vid Andy. I totally agree with you on oil based paints. Dulux water based gloss is rubbish for yellowing. Johnsons water based gloss I'm 50/50 on that. Wilko's water based is one of the best for staying white - one problem only comes in small tins. Ceilings wouldn't go past Crown Trade Covermatt obliterating Emulsion it says white for years.
Good to know - I'll have to try the Wilko's one! 👍👍
Ronseal stay white ultra tough paint is brilliant. I use it all the time. I bought second hand solid wood doors that had been stripped but had woodworm holes, numerous holes from door furniture so no way staying raw wood. With sanding, Ronseal two part filler more sanding then Ronseal white primer, undercoat and knotting all in one then Ronseal stay white ultra tough satin they look amazing 😊
I have mer car polish in my arsenal for plastics, I need to do my conservatory frame at some point
Defo very handy! 👍😁
Interesting stuff Andy. Personally I’ve never had any issues with the Screwfix box standard grab adhesive and I’ve used it on loads of skirtings, architraves etc so maybe you had a dodgy batch or the primer was the issue. That said I’ll give the instant nails ago and report back!
Yeah it's weird. Gets decent reviews but for us literally every piece of skirting fell off the wall. 😭
White vinegar is also excellent for killing black mould and spores. Perfect for those jobs where you don't want to use algicides or bleach.
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About 2 years ago I did my house in dulux brilliant white but some parts of the walls need a touch up and I don’t want to pay for a full tin just to do some finishing touches. My question is, if I bought a cheaper branded paint such as wilkinsons brilliant white, would the shade of colour be noticeable?
Possibly, as all whites aren't equal. If you feather it in it should be fine, but you'd need to try it. 👍
good video again !
Cheers Mark!
I have tried acetone but found that tar & glue remover, an automotive product, to be better at removing glue residue and similar
Great stuff, will look out for that!
@@GosforthHandyman Auto Finesse Oblitarate Tar And Glue Remover 500ml is what I currently use, about £15
Zinsser is the best paint ever.expensive but so worth it.
Had generally good experiences with Zinsser! 👍
👍👍👍Thanks
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Paints I like Johnstones Trade, Covaplus for ceilings it's super flat, cheap and goes on well not great on walls as it gets a sheen if you wipe it down. For walls I prefer their durable matt vinyl it's pretty flat, cuts in nicely, touches up well and can be wiped down ok within reason. Wood finish I'm totally the opposite to you, primer Zinsser BIN is amazing stuff, yes it's expensive but it goes far and seals a treat. Finish paint Dulux trade satin wood it flows out nice and smooth when left to dry and it's tough as anything, it is oil based but I haven't seen any yellowing over 3 years since I started using it and being an oil based it can take a good scrubbing. I've never understood why people love titebond so much, I generally use Everbuild 502 it's a lot cheaper and you're still going to break the wood before the bond if you try and get it apart, never had anything fail with it. The PU glues are useful in the right circumstances, the gap filling properties are handy but it is messy! Everbuild Lumberjack is what I have been using, go for the 30 min set over the 5 min you need a bit of time to get things together and it generally starts expanding quicker than that.
Yup! Totally agree on the Covaplus, actually just added it to the list on Amazon. Great for ceilings etc. Great info! 👍
What are peoples thoughts on the no nonsense plaster paint VS a standard watered down mist coat for price/effort?
I have bought my first house, knocked it down to brick and its finally getting plastered. If I look on screwfix I can get 20L of leylands contract paint for the same price as the no nonsense plaster 10L paint, and I will also be watering the leylands paint down so I suspect I will get a lot better coverage / value? I will be leaving 95% of the walls white though, and I will need to buy separate finishing paint with leylands to cover the mist coat, but I guess that is not needed with the no nonsense paint?
Any thoughts appreciated!
I've just had too many issues with watering down contract paint, so not doing it any more 😁. We might have just been unlucky - bad batch, weather conditions etc. Might be worth buying a tub of each to compare and contrast. 👍
The no nonsense stuff is the 👑 ...it's the only thing on my ceiling and coving as a top coat too and it looks great months later, flat and hides all marks.
It's a dream to use
Thanks both, looks like I will need to at least give the no nonsense stuff a try in a room 👍
Evo-Stick Trade Decorators caulk for me, the No-Nonsense stuff is too watery by comparison.and it shrinks too much.
Yeah, the no nonsense certainly can't be used on bigger gaps without back-filling first. 👍
A word of caution! I used "white spirit" for cleaning coins. I started getting unexplained headaches, and only months later I discovered my near constant use may be the cause. My problem has gone, since stopping the use, but there are many other solvents that may have undesirable consequences.
I am told by a friend, that many solvents like carbon tetrachloride, and trichloroethane were used as anaesthetics in the past!
Always work in a well ventilated space!!!
Thanks Andy, lot's of great information here, I shall share it with my "Kids" as I'm starting to get a lot of questions on this sort of thing !
What do you use for outside gloss whitework and do you still use the grey undercoat for this, also, any advice in dealing with resinous knots, I've tried Knotting, heating with a heat gun and wiping off with solvent and even Zinsser Bin but still having problems !
The 35 minute video isn't a problem, but I'll be reading the comments for the next two hours ! 🤣
🤣
Cheers Andy! I'm also hoping my kids will refer to my vids first while we're on a beach somewhere. 😂 Must admit I haven't used white paint outside for a LONG time so would be interested to hear others opinions on this. I'd be tempted to use the acrylic primer undercoat and then possibly Zinsser Allcoat Exterior Satin White. Need to test this. 👍
If you've got a really resinous knot you just can't seal, probably the best thing to do is cut it out and fill the hole.
@@Monkeh616 Thanks may have to do this !
I used pink grip. Dreadful. Very viscose, strong odour, but does dry rock hard
to hard becomes brittle can’t beat sticks like good price good product
I've always found Pink Grip has some flex in it once dry. Sticks Like is OK but just too expensive.
In France meths is "alcool à bruler" = alcohol for burning.
Interesting! Good to know! 👍👍
@@GosforthHandyman Popular with protesters then ? 🔥
Screwfix no longer selling there no nonsense bare plaster paint 😩
External paint work, Sandolin SupaDec brilliant. No primer or undercoat easy to use and lasts.
Leyland undercoat brilliant on MDF as a primer
Edit: Zinsser products are fantastic for problem surfaces
Edit edit: Touprep great powder filler. Two types internal and external
Wood glue. Everbuild D4. PVA external £14.50 for a litre, very good value
Caulk, Geocel very good, paint goes on well, does not crack
Would concur with all that! 👍😁
I’m sorry I love you but you need to old school screw the screws in the skirting to the wall end off!
I'll let you know if they fall off. 😁🤗
Great Video Andy. I use Soudal Caulk, just a s cheap as screwfix brand and slumps a little less on slightly larger gaps. Won't use pink grip as didn't work to well on our skirtings and other things. Everbuild stuff is great, Instant nails is my goto. Regarding paint: The worst I have ever had was the B&Q own brands, just awful, terrible coverage and really scratchy. I have used expensive brands and cheaper ones but my go to emulsion paint is Wickes. Great value and lovely paint , covers well and goes on lovely. Will try the leyland satin but I really like the dulux quick dry satin.
Everbuold instant nails is the dogs...use it all the time and to date it's never let me down...if I need some really strong adhesive then I use sticks like shit or the dogs bollox.
Hi love the channel loads of great tips. To remove label residue etc I use “sticky stuff remover” it works great and appears to be safe on most surfaces and is only about £5 to buy.
Great tip - cheers!
It’s brilliant stuff
WD40 works as well.
I've always used Dulux oil based satinwood Once for wood and never found that it turns yellow. It goes on well and covers, as it says in one coat.
You said you won't use contract matt again but the trade bare plaster is contract matt. I bought the leyland trade satinwood after you gave it good reviews but it's a load of rubbish as I find you don't get a wet edge so it leaves roller marks on doors.
Pity you can't buy acetone from the DIY departments - I had to ask the young lady in the cosmetics section for nail polish remover! 😡😰
Ha interesting! 😂🙄
Thanks for taking the time to make this video, Andy. Very helpful.
I'm a fan of Zinsser BIN... very good primer for wood (seals knots) and also metal. Also a fan of PVA glue, both waterproof and non-waterproof... PVA has many uses.
Very good point on the PVA! Many, many uses. I'll add it on Amazon. 👍😁
Seconded on BIN, seems better at stain blocking than the Johnstones, and it sticks to anything.
Re gloss and satin going yellow
Although it's water-based, it contains an alkyd (or oil) carrier, so it’s a mix of water and oil. So will yellow a bit. Read up on it
That silicone lubricant part was just full of double entendres😂you are becoming the king of it.😂
I can't help it now! 😂
@@GosforthHandyman You just had to slip one in ! 😂
Cracking video Andy, informative and insightful, proper good UA-cam
I’ve used instant nails for years started at 98p just takes longer to dry
Just a brilliant, useful reference video.
Great video, some really useful products that it is good to have recommendations for. Thanks. Could you do an updated tools you use vid that would be useful for DIYers to have.
The only thing I would add is "Mr Hobby T-116 Tool Cleaner R" which I use for cleaning my airbrush. If acetone or other solvents don't work that usually does the job. Great for stuff that you forgot to clean. Expensive but worth it for occasional use.
Cheers Glen! The tools one is defo on my to-do list. A lot of them are on the Amazon store btw. 👍
Acetone, last resort? May I introduce you to Methyl Ethyl Ketone - the other other angry solvent in solvent cement. IPA's a nice gentle solvent for ink and paint markers, some adhesives, generally most plastics and solvent based paints are immune to it so it's a fairly safe first try.
Both methylated spirits and acetone are good at removing uncured styrene fillers - two part wood filler, decorfill, etc. I've gone past scraping them off my tools and switched to just wiping them clean off with a rag before they cure, much easier.
Vinegar's also good, being acidic, at removing weak cement - stains on clothes, little dabs on surfaces, etc, without being as vicious as brick acid.
Great info! 👍👍😎
I'm not a painter or decorator but I think contract Matt isn't designed for doing mist coats. It seems to have plasticisers in which could explain the peeling.
We just use the cheap 10l Leyland or crown brilliant white tubs and water them down a bit. Goes on like milk but dries solid. never had any issues like shown, just wait for the plaster to dry first, which reminds me contract can go on fresh plaster apparently
Yeah, not sure - there's certainly instructions on the contract matt for using it as a mist coat. It could have been a dodgy batch! Got a vid coming up with a bit more info. 👍
Screwfix "No Nonsence" degreaser is cheap and fantastic for bike chains, carpet cleaner, paint brushes (oil-based AND shellac). Just rinse out in water.
Interesting - haven't tried that one! 👍
Leyland paint worka well for us. In fact the whole house has had leyland trade paint and covers really well.
Cif works well for getting dirt off pvc and also scuff marks on wooded door thresholds.
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Not a massive fan of Amazon either but agreed you should get something for your recommendation. Will be using your links Andy for any bits and bobs I'll definitely need
Thank you - much appreciated! 😎
Surprised to hear about the issue with the no nonsense solvent free adhesive, I done all sorts with that stuff as the only fixing and had no issues with it.
I liked pinkgrip but found it would sometimes blow out the side of the tube and bend the plunger on the gun so I switched to the pinkgrip solvent free but with prices being what they are these days for everything I thought id give a cheaper option a try and im glad i did really, saved a fortune since switching to it.
I agree with you on the no nonsense caulk, for the money that stuff can't be beaten!
Yeah, the solvent free gets decent reviews so it might just have been our walls... but for us it was useless. 😂
Awww was really hoping that was a pack of twiglets
Ha, the Twiglets don't last long around here!
Highly recommend Dulux Scuffshield paint for high traffic areas or if you’ve got a big muddy dog likes ours. You can literally take a damp cloth and remove dried in mud and grime off the walls and it doesn’t leave any marks.
Good to know! Modern paints are becoming incredibly hard wearing. Impressive!
@@GosforthHandyman we were dubious…and it ain’t cheap…but it’s MEGA :) ended up going back to walls we’d already painted to go over with the stuff.
Hi Andy, Thank you soooooooooo much for this video - I've saved it in my "useful tips" folder. While I totally support your quest for affiliate links from Screwfix and Toolstation etc, the challenge that they have (assuming that there is a business case for them to do it) is that both of them seem to have IT systems that are quite antique (a simple example is that neither of them have very good search capability compared to amazon) - adding an "affiliate" capability may well be quite expensive to add :(
Those 2 do affiliate links or they wouldn't be on cashback sites. Maybe you need to be a bigger business to sign-up.
Cheers! As JD says, I think they're only bothered about the big cashback and comparison sites. Which is pretty short sighted. 😭
wohoo first to comment
Nearly! 😎