Little trick about cleaning the pro gun. Use good old fashion wd40. Cleans them right up. I'm in Wisconsin and none of the box stores stocks the cleaner. Out of desperation, I tried wd40, and it worked.
I discovered a gap between my bathroom sink and the wall. Being retired on low income and a woman not knowing maintenance but knowing a maintenance man will charge me a week's worth of food, I turned to UA-cam. So grateful for this video although it is two years old. I wish you the best.
I have come to realize that Jeff is a straight shooter. When I need to perform a particular task, even if I think I know how to proceed, I always look to see what he would do. I haven't found a task yet that he doesn't make it easier or safer for me to accomplish. He has also renewed my DIY interests since I'm now retired. Thanks, Jeff, keep up the good work.
I was a service tech, and the key I learned for the window and door stuff is not to fill the gap completely and just let the stuff expand. It is low expansion, in that it only ~ doubles in size vs the professional spray foams that multiple by 5-10x. It's better to go back 10 min later and apply a little more than to overapply in the first pass. The stuff is really annoying to scrape away, especially when you're dealing with visible parts of windows that you don't want to damage with an Olfa knife. I also learned the hard way why to always leave a 1/4" gap on all sides of a window when installing it - you have to have at least the size of the spray foam applicator tip!
Love this video. The sad fact is that Great Stuff foam is hardly the only company that's pulling their marketing BS with their products. An INSANE amount of OCD-laden research goes into consumers wanting to make sure they purchase the "best" product, and in so many circumstances they get caught up in this marketing crap, because we don't know any better until we're up to our necks in the project. So, the pro's who are in a position to know....their feedback is absolutely priceless. So, a big thank you again, to Uncle Jeff for his time, and wisdom.
This guy is my hero! As a contractor it sucks working for clients, to be able to shut down ur business and just make videos of you working on your own home for yourself (every contractors dream) just amazing i gotta hand it to you, keep the videos coming, no more crappy days for you! An inspiration to all trademan who dont want to be swinging a hammer into their 60s...
I have definitely noticed that the window/door stuff doesn't push and bow things out, and the regular gap filler one does. Window/door is also much softer and flexible once cured, while the regular stuff is quite hard. The formulas can' be the same, although I do agree their expansion really does look the same.
That was the whole push behind the window and door one, it wont push on and bow windows and frames, so its nice to know it does that job, im gonna get some and i think ill get the window one for sensitive spots 👍 I'm doing a shed and none of the gaps are large
There are differences in the foam... Window and door: softer and won't bulge your door frames Window and door Pro: same stuff but cures faster Gaps and Cracs: regular foam Big gap filler: expands much more. Fill two same sized containers with it and regular stuff, then see which one will cure bigger(it needs to cure to get bigger) Pest block: regular gaps and cracks but with a bittering agent. I know because I work at the plant that makes this. Also, moisture in the air dictates the outcome. Water initiates the chemical reaction that cures it.
@@naturalhealing9970 what do you mean by an extension hose? For regular cans? Pro cans have a long gun that's about 3 feet long but it does not bend. Froth packs have longer hoses...
@@naturalhealing9970 we don't have anything like that sorry. You probably can make something yourself though. On the old fashioned straws that we use, the straw part removes pretty easily and you'll be left with the trigger. I bet you can attach like a refrigerator plastic water hose as a custom straw to that. I am not sure how long it would go before the straw gets blown out though.
I am using the pro tip, like you show in the break, and despite it saying no need to shake, I have found shaking it for 30 seconds before use provides a much larger expansion. I love this stuff too. I also used it for Pest control with just the normal foam, and it worked fine... the critters don't try to dig through.
Hey I'm a pro paint contractor for over 30 years i really like your vids and how your honest straight shooter you are easy to understand ! great work .
Very helpful! And if it might be of use to anyone, I used a can of previously used Great Stuff Windows and Doors foam from about 11 months ago today -- no problems at all. I had used it with the pro gun. After use, I removed the can, cleaned the gun with the Great Stuff cleaner, and then put the can back on for storage (as Jeff demonstrates in this video!). I was surprised it worked because it says to use within 30 days of first use on the can.
Thanks for the review! Generally I'd use the same foam for almost everything, but I do use some specific kinds of foam in certain situations (I am doing a DIY renovation, in Europe): - When going around an electric box or near electric connections I use fire-proof foam (it's the same, but has an additive, it is 3 times more expensive though). - Sometimes I use a specific foam for doors & windows, even if it expands at the same rate or similar one, the difference is noticeable a while after, it's kind of 'denser'. - When renovating roof curved tiles, you can use foam to 'fix them' together, there is a specific one that doesn't expand as much as the regular one (so it won't "lift" the tiles or expand until visible). There is one i'm eager to try but hadn't had a chance. It states that you can put drywall in place in like 60 seconds. I don't know if it's the regular one "with a sticker" on it, but the idea is that you put the foam in spots or lines (kind of what you did in the video) in the drywall and/or the surface you're installing it onto, wait 60 seconds to let the foam expand, put the drywall on the wall and let it dry. I guess it should work pretty good for old rock/brick walls being renovated (I don't like connecting the drywall with gypsum compound, due to gypsum being "thirsty"). P.S. in difficult locations, I attach a hose to the end of the can pipe (or remove the plastic pipe and replace it with a hose), that way I can insulate very narrow spaces and be able to hold the can upside down (there is one that works upright, but costs like 3x the price).
I nominate Mister T. for the World's Greatest Home Renovations Teacher Award ! Another winner video, Sir ! He has taught me the easy (and proper) ways of doing all kinds of work (beginning with dry wall and painting work.) Pennsylvania loves Mister T. ☺
Great video. Story: My ex and I remodeled a home. She used some of this foam to fill gaps. It really expanded and she used her bare hands to smooth the foam instead of waiting until it dries and cut it off. She came into the kitchen to wash her hands which were both covered in foam. I told her to stop. DO NOT GET YOUR HANDS WET!!!! It will set the foam. I asked her if she had any fingernail polish remover. Nope. I then told her to just chill out and I drove to Home Depot to get some acetone to clean her hands. When I got out of my truck when I got home, I could hear the water running. I rushed into the kitchen and she was madly washing her hands. The acetone did NOT remove the hardened foam. It took about 10 days for all of the foam to come off with lots of picking and rubbing. It was heartbreaking that she did not believe me and washed her hands anyway.
@@dancolegate3905 Well, not if he expected to live ... Worse tho' is finding your "personal account" has been put on "block" or "hold" or "suspended" ... if you follow?
It's definitely not just women. My ex boyfriend did the exact same thing after offering to help me with a home office I was building in my yard. I bought us each 2 pairs of gloves to use with the spray the foam, but despite me insisting that he wear gloves and explaining what will happen if he doesn't, he learned a very hard, painful lesson that day. Wearing gloves while molding spray foam with your hands doesn't "mean you're a p**sy," it means you're smart and have to common sense. He ignored my warning about water too and went straight to the hose to wash it off. I've always done all my own home repairs myself, but as a 5' 4" 140 lb female, sometimes it's nice to have a guy around to help me reach higher places or when I need some extra muscle. Unfortunately, that day just reminded me why most of the time it's just better to do things myself. 🙄
Iam a electrician and I just bought a house .I love you're videos they are very helpful .you are truely talented at not only renovations but teaching others .
First off let me say Thank you for your time and hard work it takes to put together your videos. There are those of us that greatly appreciate it. I enjoy watching your videos not only for the information but for your personality. I find both to be very enlightening and informative.
Ten years ago when I was rehabbing my 100-yr-old, dilapidated house, the foam expanded about 10x the volume that was sprayed. In order to use up a can on the same day it was opened, it was put everywhere around the foundation - I’m still chiseling the stuff back! (It turned into orange foam rocks.) Im very appreciative of your comparison, Jeff, because I would’ve been working under old information with the can of pest block I picked up.
Jeff I love your channel. I used to do carpentry when I was a kid (framing). I'm 67 now and starting it again as a hobby, and just to fix things around my home. And typically I don't trust most of the contractors in my area, as they aren't as good as advertised, they do less than stellar work and expect premium dollars. So I'm catching up on 50 years of changes and really appreciate your efforts.
I'm the same age, and restoring a 1895 Victorian by myself. I don't have the stamina I once had, but I find that a lifetime of knowledge and wisdom compensates pretty well! Also, owadays, we have great videos like Jeff's here so we don't have to "experiment" so much on new techniques...
Using your advice here in NZ to plan and build an outdoor shed, just using your techniques and not worrying about 5mm or 10mm and its all going up fine. Thanks for not bullshitting us on products, it's a bit like painkillers marketed as different but with the same ingredients.
So this is my take on the differences between the foams. The regular foam partially hardens before it finishes expanding. This causes it to build pressure and cause doors and windows to jam. On the other hand, the windows and doors formula will fully expand before it hardens and this prevents it from building pressure and instead just oozes out. I haven't noticed any difference between the big gap and the regular foam.
Thanks. I discovered a massive amount of cold air coming in around all my windows. I'm sure it's killing my heating and cooling bills. Hoping to get them sealed before a snowstorm tonight. Didn't know how to use them but the video and your reply was very helpful.
yes, I have had the same experience. there"s definitely a difference between the regular foam and the windows foam, I once used the regular foam on windows and it pushed the window framing causing the window to jam.
I recently used a liquid styrofoam filler in the base of my mail box and it was incredible. The new mail box post is in the ground and tighter than it has ever been before when I used concrete. If you want a real thrill, try putting a fence post or mailbox post in the ground using styrofoam instead of concrete. It worked like a charm for me. Wow!
So I'm a long time viewer, seen every video and love them all. I have this problem though that when I get around to finally doing the project I've watched a video about, I can't remember some of the fine details. I get into the isle of home depot and I've got a 4 hour drywall video to scrub through to figure out the mud options I'm looking at. It would be nice to have a little PDF for each topic that outlines some of the video. It would absolutely be worth a couple bucks to me. Like for the drywall it would have been nice to have a refresher about the mud types, a set of recommended, optional, and necessary tools and products, and a brief outline of what to do. Thanks for all you guys do!
I used a similar product several years ago for a friends electrical outlet that was leaking cold air. if I recall correctly, it did expand a lot more than the products you demonstrated. I do not recall the product she purchased; but, I was thinking the same thing when I watched you video.
Really appreciate this video. I'm a new homeowner, and I also have an 1800's house with a lot of gaps and cracks that need sealing. This video is just what I needed to get an introduction to expanding foam, how to use it and how it comes out. Two thumbs up!!
They are different once they dry. They will have different textures and density. They also continue to expand for several minutes after placing. We use them on high rise form work a lot. I’ve probably used 20 different brands and some are impossible to remove after cured and some just flake off. The Hilti brand will stick to anything, like oil, wet surfaces, paint, concrete, steel, you name it. However if you need to clean up the area around the work later your going to hate yourself for using it. And a pro tip: either wear close you don’t like or something over them, because if you get this stuff on cloth it will never come off. Your better off letting it dry without touching it and try pull it off after than trying to wipe it while it’s wet.
Just started my own business and when in a bind your videos have helped me clear that mental hurdle and finish my project in a timely fashion. Thanks for the useful tips and tricks. Thanks again, take care and have a good day.
I've been using this as an off label sheet rock or plasterboard fixer for about 15 years. However I used a metal gun that takes replacement canisters. I have even done a couple of ceramic tile splashbacks. For the plasterboard, it also makes an excellent packer where old framing is buckled. When the fixing screw starts to deform the board, you just undo the screw, squirt in a dab of foam, then redo the screw hand tight to hold the plaster board flat while the foam expands and sets. later you just screw in with your cordless drill. Makes an excellent wood glue for building forms, too.
Thank you for being honest about the product. Yes the formula has changed. It used to expand a lot more and if you did not use all the material in the can immediately, it was not good anymore and you had to throw away the can.
tip: in filling a big gap... have material on hand to temp. close the open side... once the expanding foam is introduced close the open side and secure... this will cause the foam to expand into the tiniest spaces (100th of an inch).. without this block it will actual form radiuses in the corners and the pressure of the expansion will just billow out of the area you're trying to seal
how would you block it from escaping, would duct tape work? My house is settling and the wall is pulling away from the woodwork molding by about 1". I have in the past made big huge messes with spray foam, it just pours out of wherever I am applying. But I gotta do something I fear critters coming in for the upcoming North Central Florida winter temps which an go from 20 degrees to 50 degrees in one day, and then back down to the 30's etc.
Mmm i guess i did shoot this stuff behind an electric box used a block for the initial spray but after i was done was able to remove the block and never expanded farther then i sprayed and stayed put. They really have made it easier then it use to be. And loving the reusability also.
Maybe apply some of the cleaner on the back of slab of wood or sheet metal that will temporarily serve as a means to cover penetration one is attempting to seal. I don’t know if that would work but it just came to mind after seeing Jeff use the solvent cleaner to clean the gun application tool.
You're absolutely right, it's the same here in EU. There used to be foam that bubbled up with a lot of force, foam that bubbled up without pushing things out of square, foam that barely expanded, foam that stuck like crazy... Now it's pretty much all the same low expansion stuff you have to empty a whole can around a single door that sticks to everything but the mounting side of the door frame. I believe it has to do with fire and insulation regulations, but like you say, if fire gets to the foam in most cases you'd better be long out of there anyways, and sometimes you just want to fill a gap to keep the noise and draft away without having the intention to build an ultra-insulated sealed zero-energy home.
Per your critique that the lines of foam all expand to the same size: The instructions on the can that I just bought (Sep 2021) of Crack and Gap filler (the red one) say to shake the can for at least 60 seconds. Since you didn't shake the cans, could that be why your foam lines didn't expand more satisfactorily? Maybe unrelated. But I also notice it takes many minutes for expansion to complete. Thanks for the tip on how to clean out the distributor!
Thanks for being a straight up guy. I totally agree that one is as good as the other. Pick your favourite colour of can.😉👍 Futher, I believe that many companies have been faking it for a long time. 🤬
Jeff, you are the best at what you do! I have learned so much from you as a handyman and have used a lot of your techniques to earn a living. Your honesty and straight forward, real-talk is what sets you apart from all other contractors. 💯 Stay real! Keep up the AMAZING work! Also, to Max, amazing videography and you're a great assistant to your Dad. Keep up the awesome job. Thank you both for sharing all your great work. It's very much Appreciated!! 👏👏👍🏼👍🏼👊👊 Out of Brampton, Ontario Jerry
Thanks for demonstrating why the gun-applied foam works better. FYI: Great Stuff Pro (red can) is only about 80% closed cell content, and although I've not found any specs for the non-pro version, it's probably safe to assume it's closer to the HandiFoam equivalent, which has only 67% CLOSED cell content. Some other brands, such as Loctite Titefoam and Draftstop 812, have a finer cell structure, higher closed cell content & better R-value per inch.
As I stood in front of the shelf full of gap filler yesterday I thought, "Meh, it's all going to be the same," and bought the big gap filler. This video proved I was correct! Thank you, sir.
To be able to come back and use it again without the can sealing up is a step forward. The gun handle looks much easier to control. Thanks for the video.
Oh they're great. The controller on the gun is more so you can't accidentally set it off in your toolbox the gun is pressurised so even if you take the can off the stuff inside remains uncured liquid. I regret not getting a gun sooner... Even as a DIY. I've used it to fill so many things that now it's not something I regret using and destroy clothes like those single use cans. The control makes for such a clean job
@@PTechMedia Agreed. EVERYONE should get a gun. It turns one of the most messy, annoying, wasteful, dreadful experiences into a precise, efficient joy.
Thanks for showing how to use the metal gun. I have one and the can to go with it but was afraid to use it because the store (HH) does not carry the solvent to clean it and spending $80.00 was a bit too much for a one-time use.
Excellent review ….. I need to buy a case to attempt to air seal my attic. I hope the great stuff is the best product to use for all the penetrations: plumbing, electrical, hvac, rim joists, bathroom vents ….. etc etc etc
LOVE LOVE LOVE Jeff and your channel. You’ve given me so much great advice and confidence to tackle so many jobs. Keep this coming. There’s no problem with taking some money to show us a product as long as they don’t mind you being honest about it and you think we want to hear about it. You got to make a living as you are helping us all out.
Just watched this amazing thing and I wanted to know if I can repair my wood rot on my front door pillar, the woood is rotted and I was going to use Bondo but its quite hollow inside and I read you could use this to fill the hole and use bondo to patch up. What do you think? Good idea? Is it possible?
Awesome video. Can you use spray foam around pex pipe? The home I am working on has brick, cardboard paper, and that is it. I wanted to fill the space to spray behind and around the pex pipes
I miss the old great stuff. I still like the stuff, but it’s definitely more like “the only stuff” available that’s convenient to use and doesn’t cost a fortune. Thanks for this video, Jeff! I never thought to test the different types against each other.
Fantastic video .. I was thinking the exact same thing myself .. there used to be a foam call 10X and it would almost blow screwed sheathing off the wall .. what happened to that stuff?
Same here, got a can yesterday that I'm staring at right now and it says "SHAKE vigorously - minimum 60 seconds" (all caps is how it's written on the can, so that's not my emphasis but theirs). Maybe that's why he's having expansion issues in the video?
You are correct. 20 years ago I used Great Stuff, red can, to fill a void below a replaced floor deck in a boat. After 10 minutes it blew up to 3” diameter. I haven’t seen it expand that much since.
I used all four kinds recently and they all expanded quite a bit except for the window foam. It came out the least dense. The pest block was super dense and the fire foam expanded the most I feel. I used pest block for most of my project then switched to the regular red gap filler cans as they’re the cheapest. They have new tips now too so you can close the tip and reuse it later.
It would have been good to see the density of each of the foams or maybe if there were other characteristics dealing with movement or weathering to give a fare comparison. :)
Great comparison of these “different” foams! It’d be great to see a comparison between different brands. Especially between the “fireStop” vs. “fireBlock” types. There’s a couple videos that do a flame test where not all “fire*” foams perform well.
If you want to see if the window foam is different, mock up a few window jams and fill the voids with each type of foam and measure which one pushes the 3/4 board out the most.
This stuff looks perfect in so many way! I want to insulate a metal surface and use a putty knife to spread the form out for coverage. Will it stick to a metal surface?
The red can in the pro one is a fire blocking foam. (In the US anyhow.) I go through cases of it a month. I own an insulation and air sealing company. There is definitely a difference in the formulation of the window and door vs the fire blocking foam. The window and door one is a lot more pliable, the large ones cure really hard.
Kory, I am going to air seal my 500 SF garage attic before I insulate and air condition it. I am in Texas where it's very hot. As a do-it-myselfer, which spray foam do you suggest I use? I also plan on getting a 2 foot long gun because I have a very low slope roof and getting to the top plates is difficult in some areas.
Cliff how are you insulating? Are you going to insulate above the Sheetrock then have net free space then the roof? If so I recommend the fire blocking in every electrical run. And around any junction boxes in the ceiling. To prevent air infiltration into / from the attic space. I’m also guessing that you’re using AC in you garage. I live in MN, so I heat mine. You’ll want to check with your building code for where/ if you use a vapor barrier. The other areas to air seal are any top plates. Basically you want to stop hot air from being able to get to cold air to make the insulation more effective. I insulated my attics to R-60 (20” of Owens Corning AttiCat.)
I am having blown in insulation added. So I will be air sealing the drywall joints, around some IC rated lights, and the top plates. The ac is a ductless minisplit,.
Cliff yes, either fire retardant foam, caulk for electrical runs or you could go with a good elastomeric caulk for the air sealing instead. Both work the caulk is an instant seal as no cure time is needed.
@@koryleach9660 Thank you for your contribution and taking the time to answer an excellent question. Always good stuff to learn here! I live on west coast Canada, and use that high level of attic insulation too, makes a difference, even in a milder climate. Used the bigger cans and gun for many years, best contribution of retro fitting windows I've made.
Great content, as usual. And you've been reading my mind again as I just bought a can of the Window and Door foam to fill some gaps. Really good to see the side-by-side comparisons of these products.
I've used this product but learned some new stuff from your video. Like your quick pace. Ever think of teaching science? Good job. Made me feel better not knowing which kind I'd purchased to fill some gaps. Apparently it doesn't matter:)
I was wondering myself about the lack of foam in the Big Gap can. When this stuff came out about 25 years back I used it to fill a void between joists. It must have grown to 50 times its initial spray size. I had to cut away a ton if overfill. But it was definitely giving my monies worth. I could have done a complete wall with a can. Now they detuned it to only give you a little and hope you run out to buy more!
I accidentally used it in the wrong place. But it took 10 minutes or more to completely expand. Now I was used to the old stuff so I got a ton to trim. I swear the old expanded fast. I was filling and filling and later I’m like well surprise.
Thank you for your comparison video! I am looking for a gap filler for subfloor joints in all areas of the bathroom floor mostly at stud wall plate and where the Pex A plumbing comes in to prevent bugs and drafts.
Just like shampoo, one for this, one for that, in reality it is the same product! Unfortunate, consumers like all ,fall for marketing. love your channel!👏👏👏🍻
Been there. If it hardens on your hands you almost have to soak your hand with acetone. Acetone is not too good for you. I'll be wearing latex gloves next time.
Every time I watch one fo Jeff's videos I feel like I owe him money lol so much free value thats going to save me tens of thousands of dollars on renos. So grateful for this channel. Thanks Jeff and team!!
When I was at McLendon's they said that the window one, once dry, was still a bit squishy and would allow the window to expand and contract at a different rate than the wood around it. This could be a difference that you would not be able to see just at the expansion rate. You'd have to test how squishy it is after it dried.
I'm going to try that stuff where my wall expands and contracts. Spackle / mud - it just cracks again. I've used RTV caulking [widen the crack, make sure the sides are rough so the stuff will adhere], and razored it smooth with the wall. It has some give, the latex wall paint has some give, lots more time between crack repairs. Flexible foam may be the best material yet.
I can confirm that is stays "squishy" even after a couple of years. I did an octagonal window and only parts of the window foam is hard. I can still compress most if it with my finger.
I am looking to seal up my attic with foam myself. Some products say its water resistant others don’t. I appreciate your honesty and calling these products out for actually not being very different. Is this a great product for sealing up an attic or would you suggest another? I see your saying all of this brand fill the same etc. and you’d probably just use the one but my question is really about water resistance etc. I do not want issues later. Thank you in advance for your help and response!
I too remember as a teenager using this stuff with my grandfather maybe 15 years ago and the gap filler absolutely expanded like crazy, but I think even the regular version expanded more than it did in your test. They've probably found a cheaper way to make it so they can profit an extra Nickle per can.
A realistic test would be to spray the foam between two boards. You'll see the difference, not only in color, but in the density of the foam. You'll notice the difference by poking it with a screwdriver after it hardens. Heavier foams exert more pressure and expand less. Using heavy foam where light foam can cause warping, cracks and other damage.
I just used the blue stuff and red stuff, but i cant get inside the walls to see their expansion, however the blobs i cut off, which all had a chance to expand out equally, the blue stuff is a lot softer(windows filler), takes a lot less force to squish it flat compared to the red stuff (gap filler) which is almost unsquishable without a lot of force. I can see the bllue stuff being used for around windows that need to expand and contract and it should allow for that with its elasticity. I just bought a can of the black stuff, the big gap stuff and and curiouse to see how diferrent it reacts. My guess is it will be much like the red stuff, maybe not as dense but maybe has more of the expanding agent. At leaste i hope, I sort of wish i used more of the blue stuff around the windows knowing how hard the red stuff got although I havent seen any bowing yet in the summer it might be different. Id use the red stuff to fill cavities for insulation though, it does "feel" warmer, and if youre not worried about bowing id use that instead.
When using the metal professional gun make sure you get that valve screw propped tight so no air can get in, one can will last forever as long as air doesn’t get in applicator
I have been watching this guy from Canada put out great content videos on home improvement for years. This GREAT STUFF video is an eye opener, and he's got our back on products we choose to buy. Point is, don't just watch his video without giving him a THUMBS UP. He deserves at least that much from us, as we deserve consumer product information. It's cost effective to come here first before we waste our money, on products that may not be best choice; Allow him to choose for us by demonstration and the proof will be before your eyes. I hail from Michigan. THUMBS UP!!!
I'm retired, and only now just learning how to use all the tools I inherited from my Dad after he passed away. 50 years after I watched him work as a a kid I still remember some of his tricks.
Thanks, Jeff! And, agreed. I happened to purchase the same products. I bought the windows/doors, pest and regular gaps/cracks. And, yes! They're about the same. I haven't noticed any 1 trait other than the color. Keep up the good work!
There's definitely a difference to them. The window and door is a lot softer than the normal stuff and it doesn't expand a lot. I would never use another of the options around a window. The regular stuff and the pest are much harder once they cure, and they expand with significant pressure (they will bow 2x4s if they can't find a release point). They all have similar chemical components but they have been formulated for specific purposes and shouldn't be interchanged (fire block, pest block, original gap filler, large gap filler and door and window).
@@endicous What happens though, is that the outside layer of polyurethane cures/hardens and the inside is still expanding against 3 sides. The lumber and sheathing are stronger than the window and the foam is stronger than the window frame, hence the bowing. If you keep cutting the outside layer of the foam while it hardens, then the pressure could be released outwards. It's just a lot more simple to use elastomeric caulking and window foam and not risk having to replace a window.
There are videos on UA-cam trying to prove the bending theory - no luck I must say. Property installed window should have adequate fixing which should be a lot stronger then the expanding foam pressure.
@@endicous You have a point there, but typical window installation is done by the crew that also does the siding/sheathing/framing, so they won't always it with as many fasteners as the manufacturer wants, and it doesn't cost much more to stick to what's recommended by the manufacturer and is tried and true. Once a window is warped, it won't go back. So even if your brain is saying, "Why not?" There should be a valid reason to use the regular foam other than "Just because."
That's a different subject. If a window frame is installed incorrectly then no point to talk about the site affects including foam pressure impact/ frame bending. All I want to say is that the pressure which comes from the expanding foam which has enough space to escape while curing is minimal
I have 3 cans of great stuff that I used once . went to use it again a month later and it didn't work . so thanks to your video I bought the metal gun , now no more clogged cans. thanks Jeff.
One of the problems I found in those small cans is you have little control.Trimming the access shows you waste at least 1/2 A can.I'm looking at the pro nozzle and can.
Little trick about cleaning the pro gun. Use good old fashion wd40. Cleans them right up. I'm in Wisconsin and none of the box stores stocks the cleaner. Out of desperation, I tried wd40, and it worked.
I discovered a gap between my bathroom sink and the wall. Being retired on low income and a woman not knowing maintenance but knowing a maintenance man will charge me a week's worth of food, I turned to UA-cam. So grateful for this video although it is two years old. I wish you the best.
I have come to realize that Jeff is a straight shooter. When I need to perform a particular task, even if I think I know how to proceed, I always look to see what he would do. I haven't found a task yet that he doesn't make it easier or safer for me to accomplish. He has also renewed my DIY interests since I'm now retired. Thanks, Jeff, keep up the good work.
I must admit. I absolutely love this channel. I would look at this channel for any information regarding any DIY project I may have.
You’re being mis lead in this video guys. He knows nothing about spray foam. Lol. All he told you was the color
That! and he is also entertaining to watch!
@@almostdone09 ....and you don't need to go anywhere else!
😅
I was a service tech, and the key I learned for the window and door stuff is not to fill the gap completely and just let the stuff expand. It is low expansion, in that it only ~ doubles in size vs the professional spray foams that multiple by 5-10x. It's better to go back 10 min later and apply a little more than to overapply in the first pass. The stuff is really annoying to scrape away, especially when you're dealing with visible parts of windows that you don't want to damage with an Olfa knife.
I also learned the hard way why to always leave a 1/4" gap on all sides of a window when installing it - you have to have at least the size of the spray foam applicator tip!
Love this video. The sad fact is that Great Stuff foam is hardly the only company that's pulling their marketing BS with their products. An INSANE amount of OCD-laden research goes into consumers wanting to make sure they purchase the "best" product, and in so many circumstances they get caught up in this marketing crap, because we don't know any better until we're up to our necks in the project. So, the pro's who are in a position to know....their feedback is absolutely priceless. So, a big thank you again, to Uncle Jeff for his time, and wisdom.
Thanks!
This guy is my hero! As a contractor it sucks working for clients, to be able to shut down ur business and just make videos of you working on your own home for yourself (every contractors dream) just amazing i gotta hand it to you, keep the videos coming, no more crappy days for you! An inspiration to all trademan who dont want to be swinging a hammer into their 60s...
Bad contractor vibes
I have definitely noticed that the window/door stuff doesn't push and bow things out, and the regular gap filler one does. Window/door is also much softer and flexible once cured, while the regular stuff is quite hard. The formulas can' be the same, although I do agree their expansion really does look the same.
That was the whole push behind the window and door one, it wont push on and bow windows and frames, so its nice to know it does that job, im gonna get some and i think ill get the window one for sensitive spots 👍
I'm doing a shed and none of the gaps are large
Thanks!
There are differences in the foam...
Window and door: softer and won't bulge your door frames
Window and door Pro: same stuff but cures faster
Gaps and Cracs: regular foam
Big gap filler: expands much more. Fill two same sized containers with it and regular stuff, then see which one will cure bigger(it needs to cure to get bigger)
Pest block: regular gaps and cracks but with a bittering agent.
I know because I work at the plant that makes this.
Also, moisture in the air dictates the outcome. Water initiates the chemical reaction that cures it.
Doesn't seem to be any difference any more.
How do we get an extension hose for hard to reach areas.
@@naturalhealing9970 what do you mean by an extension hose? For regular cans? Pro cans have a long gun that's about 3 feet long but it does not bend. Froth packs have longer hoses...
@@eduardos8895 Yes, for regular cans.
@@naturalhealing9970 we don't have anything like that sorry. You probably can make something yourself though. On the old fashioned straws that we use, the straw part removes pretty easily and you'll be left with the trigger. I bet you can attach like a refrigerator plastic water hose as a custom straw to that. I am not sure how long it would go before the straw gets blown out though.
Hey my man you ain’t no politician, too honest.
You sir are honest intel that I love to watch and learn from.
I am using the pro tip, like you show in the break, and despite it saying no need to shake, I have found shaking it for 30 seconds before use provides a much larger expansion. I love this stuff too. I also used it for Pest control with just the normal foam, and it worked fine... the critters don't try to dig through.
Thanks for sharing!
The window can says shake for 60 seconds. Not sure abt the others
Hey I'm a pro paint contractor for over 30 years i really like your vids and how your honest straight shooter you are easy to understand ! great work .
Very helpful! And if it might be of use to anyone, I used a can of previously used Great Stuff Windows and Doors foam from about 11 months ago today -- no problems at all. I had used it with the pro gun. After use, I removed the can, cleaned the gun with the Great Stuff cleaner, and then put the can back on for storage (as Jeff demonstrates in this video!). I was surprised it worked because it says to use within 30 days of first use on the can.
Thanks Graham, Cheers!
If it clogs just pour acetone and it will resolve out of the straw or nozzle.
Thanks for the review!
Generally I'd use the same foam for almost everything, but I do use some specific kinds of foam in certain situations (I am doing a DIY renovation, in Europe):
- When going around an electric box or near electric connections I use fire-proof foam (it's the same, but has an additive, it is 3 times more expensive though).
- Sometimes I use a specific foam for doors & windows, even if it expands at the same rate or similar one, the difference is noticeable a while after, it's kind of 'denser'.
- When renovating roof curved tiles, you can use foam to 'fix them' together, there is a specific one that doesn't expand as much as the regular one (so it won't "lift" the tiles or expand until visible).
There is one i'm eager to try but hadn't had a chance. It states that you can put drywall in place in like 60 seconds. I don't know if it's the regular one "with a sticker" on it, but the idea is that you put the foam in spots or lines (kind of what you did in the video) in the drywall and/or the surface you're installing it onto, wait 60 seconds to let the foam expand, put the drywall on the wall and let it dry. I guess it should work pretty good for old rock/brick walls being renovated (I don't like connecting the drywall with gypsum compound, due to gypsum being "thirsty").
P.S. in difficult locations, I attach a hose to the end of the can pipe (or remove the plastic pipe and replace it with a hose), that way I can insulate very narrow spaces and be able to hold the can upside down (there is one that works upright, but costs like 3x the price).
I nominate Mister T. for the World's Greatest Home Renovations Teacher Award ! Another winner video, Sir ! He has taught me the easy (and proper) ways of doing all kinds of work (beginning with dry wall and painting work.) Pennsylvania loves Mister T. ☺
Great video. Story: My ex and I remodeled a home. She used some of this foam to fill gaps. It really expanded and she used her bare hands to smooth the foam instead of waiting until it dries and cut it off. She came into the kitchen to wash her hands which were both covered in foam. I told her to stop. DO NOT GET YOUR HANDS WET!!!! It will set the foam. I asked her if she had any fingernail polish remover. Nope. I then told her to just chill out and I drove to Home Depot to get some acetone to clean her hands. When I got out of my truck when I got home, I could hear the water running. I rushed into the kitchen and she was madly washing her hands. The acetone did NOT remove the hardened foam. It took about 10 days for all of the foam to come off with lots of picking and rubbing. It was heartbreaking that she did not believe me and washed her hands anyway.
Women for ya
Did you at least say " I told you"
@@dancolegate3905 Well, not if he expected to live ...
Worse tho' is finding your "personal account" has been put on "block" or "hold" or "suspended" ... if you follow?
@@dancolegate3905 Probably did, hence the "ex"... lol
It's definitely not just women. My ex boyfriend did the exact same thing after offering to help me with a home office I was building in my yard. I bought us each 2 pairs of gloves to use with the spray the foam, but despite me insisting that he wear gloves and explaining what will happen if he doesn't, he learned a very hard, painful lesson that day. Wearing gloves while molding spray foam with your hands doesn't "mean you're a p**sy," it means you're smart and have to common sense. He ignored my warning about water too and went straight to the hose to wash it off. I've always done all my own home repairs myself, but as a 5' 4" 140 lb female, sometimes it's nice to have a guy around to help me reach higher places or when I need some extra muscle. Unfortunately, that day just reminded me why most of the time it's just better to do things myself. 🙄
Iam a electrician and I just bought a house .I love you're videos they are very helpful .you are truely talented at not only renovations but teaching others .
First off let me say Thank you for your time and hard work it takes to put together your videos. There are those of us that greatly appreciate it. I enjoy watching your videos not only for the information but for your personality. I find both to be very enlightening and informative.
Ten years ago when I was rehabbing my 100-yr-old, dilapidated house, the foam expanded about 10x the volume that was sprayed. In order to use up a can on the same day it was opened, it was put everywhere around the foundation - I’m still chiseling the stuff back! (It turned into orange foam rocks.) Im very appreciative of your comparison, Jeff, because I would’ve been working under old information with the can of pest block I picked up.
Jeff I love your channel. I used to do carpentry when I was a kid (framing). I'm 67 now and starting it again as a hobby, and just to fix things around my home. And typically I don't trust most of the contractors in my area, as they aren't as good as advertised, they do less than stellar work and expect premium dollars. So I'm catching up on 50 years of changes and really appreciate your efforts.
I'm the same age, and restoring a 1895 Victorian by myself. I don't have the stamina I once had, but I find that a lifetime of knowledge and wisdom compensates pretty well! Also, owadays, we have great videos like Jeff's here so we don't have to "experiment" so much on new techniques...
Using your advice here in NZ to plan and build an outdoor shed, just using your techniques and not worrying about 5mm or 10mm and its all going up fine. Thanks for not bullshitting us on products, it's a bit like painkillers marketed as different but with the same ingredients.
So this is my take on the differences between the foams. The regular foam partially hardens before it finishes expanding. This causes it to build pressure and cause doors and windows to jam. On the other hand, the windows and doors formula will fully expand before it hardens and this prevents it from building pressure and instead just oozes out. I haven't noticed any difference between the big gap and the regular foam.
Excellent, exactly the detail we need, and it does show that these are not all the same.
Thanks. I discovered a massive amount of cold air coming in around all my windows. I'm sure it's killing my heating and cooling bills. Hoping to get them sealed before a snowstorm tonight. Didn't know how to use them but the video and your reply was very helpful.
yes, I have had the same experience. there"s definitely a difference between the regular foam and the windows foam, I once used the regular foam on windows and it pushed the window framing causing the window to jam.
I recently used a liquid styrofoam filler in the base of my mail box and it was incredible. The new mail box post is in the ground and tighter than it has ever been before when I used concrete. If you want a real thrill, try putting a fence post or mailbox post in the ground using styrofoam instead of concrete. It worked like a charm for me. Wow!
So I'm a long time viewer, seen every video and love them all. I have this problem though that when I get around to finally doing the project I've watched a video about, I can't remember some of the fine details. I get into the isle of home depot and I've got a 4 hour drywall video to scrub through to figure out the mud options I'm looking at. It would be nice to have a little PDF for each topic that outlines some of the video. It would absolutely be worth a couple bucks to me. Like for the drywall it would have been nice to have a refresher about the mud types, a set of recommended, optional, and necessary tools and products, and a brief outline of what to do. Thanks for all you guys do!
I used a similar product several years ago for a friends electrical outlet that was leaking cold air. if I recall correctly, it did expand a lot more than the products you demonstrated. I do not recall the product she purchased; but, I was thinking the same thing when I watched you video.
You are literally the best guy on UA-cam doing what you do. Great work and great philosophy!
Really appreciate this video. I'm a new homeowner, and I also have an 1800's house with a lot of gaps and cracks that need sealing. This video is just what I needed to get an introduction to expanding foam, how to use it and how it comes out. Two thumbs up!!
They are different once they dry. They will have different textures and density. They also continue to expand for several minutes after placing. We use them on high rise form work a lot. I’ve probably used 20 different brands and some are impossible to remove after cured and some just flake off. The Hilti brand will stick to anything, like oil, wet surfaces, paint, concrete, steel, you name it. However if you need to clean up the area around the work later your going to hate yourself for using it. And a pro tip: either wear close you don’t like or something over them, because if you get this stuff on cloth it will never come off. Your better off letting it dry without touching it and try pull it off after than trying to wipe it while it’s wet.
Just started my own business and when in a bind your videos have helped me clear that mental hurdle and finish my project in a timely fashion. Thanks for the useful tips and tricks. Thanks again, take care and have a good day.
thanks for showing the contractors gun, I was wondering how good they were and how to clean them, this really helped
I've been using this as an off label sheet rock or plasterboard fixer for about 15 years. However I used a metal gun that takes replacement canisters. I have even done a couple of ceramic tile splashbacks. For the plasterboard, it also makes an excellent packer where old framing is buckled. When the fixing screw starts to deform the board, you just undo the screw, squirt in a dab of foam, then redo the screw hand tight to hold the plaster board flat while the foam expands and sets. later you just screw in with your cordless drill. Makes an excellent wood glue for building forms, too.
Great video Jeff. I agree that 15-20 yrs ago, the foam would really expand alot. It's definitely changed.
Thank you for being honest about the product. Yes the formula has changed. It used to expand a lot more and if you did not use all the material in the can immediately, it was not good anymore and you had to throw away the can.
tip: in filling a big gap... have material on hand to temp. close the open side... once the expanding foam is introduced close the open side and secure... this will cause the foam to expand into the tiniest spaces (100th of an inch).. without this block it will actual form radiuses in the corners and the pressure of the expansion will just billow out of the area you're trying to seal
how would you block it from escaping, would duct tape work? My house is settling and the wall is pulling away from the woodwork molding by about 1". I have in the past made big huge messes with spray foam, it just pours out of wherever I am applying. But I gotta do something I fear critters coming in for the upcoming North Central Florida winter temps which an go from 20 degrees to 50 degrees in one day, and then back down to the 30's etc.
Mmm i guess i did shoot this stuff behind an electric box used a block for the initial spray but after i was done was able to remove the block and never expanded farther then i sprayed and stayed put.
They really have made it easier then it use to be. And loving the reusability also.
Maybe apply some of the cleaner on the back of slab of wood or sheet metal that will temporarily serve as a means to cover penetration one is attempting to seal. I don’t know if that would work but it just came to mind after seeing Jeff use the solvent cleaner to clean the gun application tool.
I'm thinking pizza pan and Pam. That's what I have round here
You're absolutely right, it's the same here in EU. There used to be foam that bubbled up with a lot of force, foam that bubbled up without pushing things out of square, foam that barely expanded, foam that stuck like crazy... Now it's pretty much all the same low expansion stuff you have to empty a whole can around a single door that sticks to everything but the mounting side of the door frame. I believe it has to do with fire and insulation regulations, but like you say, if fire gets to the foam in most cases you'd better be long out of there anyways, and sometimes you just want to fill a gap to keep the noise and draft away without having the intention to build an ultra-insulated sealed zero-energy home.
Per your critique that the lines of foam all expand to the same size: The instructions on the can that I just bought (Sep 2021) of Crack and Gap filler (the red one) say to shake the can for at least 60 seconds. Since you didn't shake the cans, could that be why your foam lines didn't expand more satisfactorily? Maybe unrelated. But I also notice it takes many minutes for expansion to complete. Thanks for the tip on how to clean out the distributor!
I bought the black can about a month ago and it says shake vigorously for 60sec as well. So who knows where he got his instructions @1:30
Thanks for being a straight up guy. I totally agree that one is as good as the other. Pick your favourite colour of can.😉👍 Futher, I believe that many companies have been faking it for a long time. 🤬
Be a consumer advocate. I would rather hear true opinion. It will also pressure companies to find real solutions.
I love your smile...I watched you build a big shed...I smiled a lot cuz you are fun. Thank you for being you with a smile
😊 thank you
Jeff, you are the best at what you do! I have learned so much from you as a handyman and have used a lot of your techniques to earn a living. Your honesty and straight forward, real-talk is what sets you apart from all other contractors. 💯
Stay real! Keep up the AMAZING work!
Also, to Max, amazing videography and you're a great assistant to your Dad. Keep up the awesome job.
Thank you both for sharing all your great work. It's very much Appreciated!! 👏👏👍🏼👍🏼👊👊
Out of Brampton, Ontario
Jerry
maybe i missed it in your videos but i am looking for tips on whether i can use 'great foam' or some other product to lift a concrete slap.
Thanks for demonstrating why the gun-applied foam works better. FYI: Great Stuff Pro (red can) is only about 80% closed cell content, and although I've not found any specs for the non-pro version, it's probably safe to assume it's closer to the HandiFoam equivalent, which has only 67% CLOSED cell content. Some other brands, such as Loctite Titefoam and Draftstop 812, have a finer cell structure, higher closed cell content & better R-value per inch.
As I stood in front of the shelf full of gap filler yesterday I thought, "Meh, it's all going to be the same," and bought the big gap filler. This video proved I was correct! Thank you, sir.
To be able to come back and use it again without the can sealing up is a step forward. The gun handle looks much easier to control. Thanks for the video.
Oh they're great. The controller on the gun is more so you can't accidentally set it off in your toolbox the gun is pressurised so even if you take the can off the stuff inside remains uncured liquid.
I regret not getting a gun sooner... Even as a DIY. I've used it to fill so many things that now it's not something I regret using and destroy clothes like those single use cans.
The control makes for such a clean job
@@PTechMedia Agreed. EVERYONE should get a gun. It turns one of the most messy, annoying, wasteful, dreadful experiences into a precise, efficient joy.
Thanks for showing how to use the metal gun. I have one and the can to go with it but was afraid to use it because the store (HH) does not carry the solvent to clean it and spending $80.00 was a bit too much for a one-time use.
Great info. Could you do a test with a different brand and the one you used in this video. 👍🏼
Excellent review ….. I need to buy a case to attempt to air seal my attic. I hope the great stuff is the best product to use for all the penetrations: plumbing, electrical, hvac, rim joists, bathroom vents ….. etc etc etc
LOVE LOVE LOVE Jeff and your channel. You’ve given me so much great advice and confidence to tackle so many jobs.
Keep this coming. There’s no problem with taking some money to show us a product as long as they don’t mind you being honest about it and you think we want to hear about it.
You got to make a living as you are helping us all out.
Just watched this amazing thing and I wanted to know if I can repair my wood rot on my front door pillar, the woood is rotted and I was going to use Bondo but its quite hollow inside and I read you could use this to fill the hole and use bondo to patch up. What do you think? Good idea? Is it possible?
I feel like I am catching up with my Dad every time a new video is posted.
Haha that is so true!! Thanks for putting my exact feeling into words
Same. I wonder if Jeff is currently taking adoptions XD
@@Coder-zx4nb He should start apprenticeship program
I've said literally the same thing, to the point where my wife refers to Jeff as "Canadian Dad." 😂
Jeff is every Canadian’s dad at this point
What is the best method of removing spray foam on an outside vinyl surface. Putty knife, and or sand paper thank you warren
Just yesterday I was using it and I was wondering why it hasn't expanded like I anticipated, now I know, thank you
Awesome video. Can you use spray foam around pex pipe? The home I am working on has brick, cardboard paper, and that is it. I wanted to fill the space to spray behind and around the pex pipes
I miss the old great stuff. I still like the stuff, but it’s definitely more like “the only stuff” available that’s convenient to use and doesn’t cost a fortune. Thanks for this video, Jeff! I never thought to test the different types against each other.
Fantastic video .. I was thinking the exact same thing myself .. there used to be a foam call 10X and it would almost blow screwed sheathing off the wall .. what happened to that stuff?
I was just at Home Depot and these exact cans all said to Shake Well.
Same here, got a can yesterday that I'm staring at right now and it says "SHAKE vigorously - minimum 60 seconds" (all caps is how it's written on the can, so that's not my emphasis but theirs). Maybe that's why he's having expansion issues in the video?
You are correct. 20 years ago I used Great Stuff, red can, to fill a void below a replaced floor deck in a boat. After 10 minutes it blew up to 3” diameter. I haven’t seen it expand that much since.
I used all four kinds recently and they all expanded quite a bit except for the window foam. It came out the least dense. The pest block was super dense and the fire foam expanded the most I feel. I used pest block for most of my project then switched to the regular red gap filler cans as they’re the cheapest. They have new tips now too so you can close the tip and reuse it later.
I've never sprayed fireblock, it sucks to chip out though.
I’ve been watching you for years now. I’ve redone several homes watching your videos. I love your videos. Thank you sincerely.
It would have been good to see the density of each of the foams or maybe if there were other characteristics dealing with movement or weathering to give a fare comparison. :)
"would be nice if people where honest about these products" I think he said... lol...
Thank you Jeff! Your honest feedback is MUCH appreciated!
You are awesome, keep up the good work! xoxo
Great comparison of these “different” foams! It’d be great to see a comparison between different brands. Especially between the “fireStop” vs. “fireBlock” types. There’s a couple videos that do a flame test where not all “fire*” foams perform well.
You sound like a programmer.
@@BenVanCamp It's probably because I am 🤣
Youre a fine craftsman and even better communicator. I appreciate you!
This guy is amazing and full of knowledge. I wish I knew half of the stuff he has forgot over the years
You Are The Real Deal!!!! Very Knowledgeable-
Very entertaining…
Thank You!!!
If you want to see if the window foam is different, mock up a few window jams and fill the voids with each type of foam and measure which one pushes the 3/4 board out the most.
Use a low expanding closed cell.
@@designstudio8013 eye eye captain.
@@paulmacdonald7068 @Paul Mac
That’s a video for project farm
This stuff looks perfect in so many way! I want to insulate a metal surface and use a putty knife to spread the form out for coverage. Will it stick to a metal surface?
The red can in the pro one is a fire blocking foam. (In the US anyhow.) I go through cases of it a month. I own an insulation and air sealing company. There is definitely a difference in the formulation of the window and door vs the fire blocking foam. The window and door one is a lot more pliable, the large ones cure really hard.
Kory, I am going to air seal my 500 SF garage attic before I insulate and air condition it. I am in Texas where it's very hot. As a do-it-myselfer, which spray foam do you suggest I use? I also plan on getting a 2 foot long gun because I have a very low slope roof and getting to the top plates is difficult in some areas.
Cliff how are you insulating? Are you going to insulate above the Sheetrock then have net free space then the roof?
If so I recommend the fire blocking in every electrical run. And around any junction boxes in the ceiling. To prevent air infiltration into / from the attic space. I’m also guessing that you’re using AC in you garage. I live in MN, so I heat mine. You’ll want to check with your building code for where/ if you use a vapor barrier. The other areas to air seal are any top plates. Basically you want to stop hot air from being able to get to cold air to make the insulation more effective.
I insulated my attics to R-60 (20” of Owens Corning AttiCat.)
I am having blown in insulation added. So I will be air sealing the drywall joints, around some IC rated lights, and the top plates. The ac is a ductless minisplit,.
Cliff yes, either fire retardant foam, caulk for electrical runs or you could go with a good elastomeric caulk for the air sealing instead. Both work the caulk is an instant seal as no cure time is needed.
@@koryleach9660 Thank you for your contribution and taking the time to answer an excellent question. Always good stuff to learn here! I live on west coast Canada, and use that high level of attic insulation too, makes a difference, even in a milder climate. Used the bigger cans and gun for many years, best contribution of retro fitting windows I've made.
Great information. I have some cracking in the corner foundation block joints and would like to know what Jeff would recommend.
epoxy injection. and check your grading outside and make sure water is running away from the house!
Great content, as usual. And you've been reading my mind again as I just bought a can of the Window and Door foam to fill some gaps. Really good to see the side-by-side comparisons of these products.
I've used this product but learned some new stuff from your video. Like your quick pace. Ever think of teaching science? Good job. Made me feel better not knowing which kind I'd purchased to fill some gaps. Apparently it doesn't matter:)
I was wondering myself about the lack of foam in the Big Gap can. When this stuff came out about 25 years back I used it to fill a void between joists. It must have grown to 50 times its initial spray size. I had to cut away a ton if overfill. But it was definitely giving my monies worth. I could have done a complete wall with a can. Now they detuned it to only give you a little and hope you run out to buy more!
I accidentally used it in the wrong place. But it took 10 minutes or more to completely expand. Now I was used to the old stuff so I got a ton to trim. I swear the old expanded fast. I was filling and filling and later I’m like well surprise.
Hey great video.
I have to do spray insulation, what do I propose? Spray foam or polyurethane?
What is cheap equipment for the job?
Been learning from you for awhile now, your brilliant like the foam your expanding my knowledge.
Thanks Jeff
Thank you for your comparison video! I am looking for a gap filler for subfloor joints in all areas of the bathroom floor mostly at stud wall plate and where the Pex A plumbing comes in to prevent bugs and drafts.
Just like shampoo, one for this, one for that, in reality it is the same product! Unfortunate, consumers like all ,fall for marketing. love your channel!👏👏👏🍻
Been there. If it hardens on your hands you almost have to soak your hand with acetone. Acetone is not too good for you. I'll be wearing latex gloves next time.
Every time I watch one fo Jeff's videos I feel like I owe him money lol so much free value thats going to save me tens of thousands of dollars on renos. So grateful for this channel. Thanks Jeff and team!!
When I was at McLendon's they said that the window one, once dry, was still a bit squishy and would allow the window to expand and contract at a different rate than the wood around it. This could be a difference that you would not be able to see just at the expansion rate. You'd have to test how squishy it is after it dried.
good point. You know Jeff likes those cans!
I'm going to try that stuff where my wall expands and contracts. Spackle / mud - it just cracks again. I've used RTV caulking [widen the crack, make sure the sides are rough so the stuff will adhere], and razored it smooth with the wall. It has some give, the latex wall paint has some give, lots more time between crack repairs. Flexible foam may be the best material yet.
I can confirm that is stays "squishy" even after a couple of years. I did an octagonal window and only parts of the window foam is hard. I can still compress most if it with my finger.
@@dfl19034 my home was built in 82, most recently renovated around 2005.
Window foam is still very flexible.
Home Depot has a display set up with the different kinds of foam so you can poke and prod at them.
I am looking to seal up my attic with foam myself. Some products say its water resistant others don’t. I appreciate your honesty and calling these products out for actually not being very different.
Is this a great product for sealing up an attic or would you suggest another? I see your saying all of this brand fill the same etc. and you’d probably just use the one but my question is really about water resistance etc. I do not want issues later.
Thank you in advance for your help and response!
Started watching you before I even got a house, thank you for all you do!
Your video was GREAT STUFF! How do you clean the plastic dispenser that comes with the can so you can use it again?
I too remember as a teenager using this stuff with my grandfather maybe 15 years ago and the gap filler absolutely expanded like crazy, but I think even the regular version expanded more than it did in your test. They've probably found a cheaper way to make it so they can profit an extra Nickle per can.
They don't have to make it cheaper, they just need to make you use more of it. And that's exactly what they did.
Love the honesty and the sense of humor! 😊
Oh, and the knowledge!
Thank you for having our back as consumers.
from the older thinner spray straw tube thingy i cleaned mine with the Dawn Straw Cleaner and worked like a charm~
A realistic test would be to spray the foam between two boards. You'll see the difference, not only in color, but in the density of the foam. You'll notice the difference by poking it with a screwdriver after it hardens.
Heavier foams exert more pressure and expand less. Using heavy foam where light foam can cause warping, cracks and other damage.
I just used the blue stuff and red stuff, but i cant get inside the walls to see their expansion, however the blobs i cut off, which all had a chance to expand out equally, the blue stuff is a lot softer(windows filler), takes a lot less force to squish it flat compared to the red stuff (gap filler) which is almost unsquishable without a lot of force. I can see the bllue stuff being used for around windows that need to expand and contract and it should allow for that with its elasticity. I just bought a can of the black stuff, the big gap stuff and and curiouse to see how diferrent it reacts. My guess is it will be much like the red stuff, maybe not as dense but maybe has more of the expanding agent. At leaste i hope, I sort of wish i used more of the blue stuff around the windows knowing how hard the red stuff got although I havent seen any bowing yet in the summer it might be different. Id use the red stuff to fill cavities for insulation though, it does "feel" warmer, and if youre not worried about bowing id use that instead.
Thanks for video ! I have a can sitting in front of me & I’ve never used it before now I have confidence in using it ! Thanks off to work!
When using the metal professional gun make sure you get that valve screw propped tight so no air can get in, one can will last forever as long as air doesn’t get in applicator
I have been watching this guy from Canada put out great content videos on home improvement for years. This GREAT STUFF video is an eye opener, and he's got our back on products we choose to buy. Point is, don't just watch his video without giving him a THUMBS UP. He deserves at least that much from us, as we deserve consumer product information. It's cost effective to come here first before we waste our money, on products that may not be best choice; Allow him to choose for us by demonstration and the proof will be before your eyes. I hail from Michigan. THUMBS UP!!!
teaching me all the shit my dad never taught me..
LOL for me it's more like teaching me all the shit my dad tried to teach me, but I wasn't listening.
If u got daddy issues come on over I'm about to throw some burgers on the grill champ
@@brianbass8574 deliverance plays in the background
I'm retired, and only now just learning how to use all the tools I inherited from my Dad after he passed away. 50 years after I watched him work as a a kid I still remember some of his tricks.
@@ballsdeep9648 ...seriously! A bunch of us are looking at our feet right now!
Thanks, Jeff! And, agreed. I happened to purchase the same products. I bought the windows/doors, pest and regular gaps/cracks. And, yes! They're about the same. I haven't noticed any 1 trait other than the color. Keep up the good work!
There's definitely a difference to them. The window and door is a lot softer than the normal stuff and it doesn't expand a lot. I would never use another of the options around a window. The regular stuff and the pest are much harder once they cure, and they expand with significant pressure (they will bow 2x4s if they can't find a release point). They all have similar chemical components but they have been formulated for specific purposes and shouldn't be interchanged (fire block, pest block, original gap filler, large gap filler and door and window).
That's a great tip: " if they can't find a release point". I guess no pressure if there is a release point eg around newly installed window
@@endicous What happens though, is that the outside layer of polyurethane cures/hardens and the inside is still expanding against 3 sides. The lumber and sheathing are stronger than the window and the foam is stronger than the window frame, hence the bowing. If you keep cutting the outside layer of the foam while it hardens, then the pressure could be released outwards. It's just a lot more simple to use elastomeric caulking and window foam and not risk having to replace a window.
There are videos on UA-cam trying to prove the bending theory - no luck I must say. Property installed window should have adequate fixing which should be a lot stronger then the expanding foam pressure.
@@endicous You have a point there, but typical window installation is done by the crew that also does the siding/sheathing/framing, so they won't always it with as many fasteners as the manufacturer wants, and it doesn't cost much more to stick to what's recommended by the manufacturer and is tried and true. Once a window is warped, it won't go back. So even if your brain is saying, "Why not?" There should be a valid reason to use the regular foam other than "Just because."
That's a different subject. If a window frame is installed incorrectly then no point to talk about the site affects including foam pressure impact/ frame bending. All I want to say is that the pressure which comes from the expanding foam which has enough space to escape while curing is minimal
Thanks for the video. I'm used to the old stuff when you opened the can you had to use the whole can.
This is why I love you!!! I just found your channel and if I need to know how to do something, I search your channel.
Awesome! Thank you!
I have 3 cans of great stuff that I used once . went to use it again a month later and it didn't work . so thanks to your video I bought the metal gun , now no more clogged cans. thanks Jeff.
One of the problems I found in those small cans is you have little control.Trimming the access shows you waste at least 1/2 A can.I'm looking at the pro nozzle and can.
I have a old window opening in a RV 20x18 x 2" that I covered over on the out side what you recommend. Is Great Stuff open or close cell?
Great Video
Besides quality content, your lighting and production value is on point!
Hi jeff....I watched this again.... so true about spray foam... I use osi quad max...I have the gun.. it dries in two minutes ......thanks