I was a glue/veneer specialist for most of my life and I think you did a great job. You might want to mention waterproof, and water resistant glues for exterior applications. And also, what kinds of glues will stick to oily woods like teak and how the application of denatured alcohol on the surface to be glued will remove the surface oil and prepare the piece for the application of the glue. It has been my experience that the wood should be clamped very tight. Those water based glues like you were using, tend to shrink as they dry. When brushing on the glue, brush in both directions to work the glue into the pores. Brushing in one direction will pull the glue out of the pores. Polyurathane glues like Gorilla glue will expand as it dries so you need to be carefull or you will have a mess to clean up. Because it expands, you won't need to worry about a tight clamp. If gluing something thin, it's alway best to use a backer board that covers the entire area and be sure the clamps are in close proximitry so you squeese out the glue. You can coat the backer with any kind of wax like butchers wax and the glue will not stick to it. What you did with the screws on the end was great and is exactly how I use to do it. Another neat trick is to increase the surface area by using a spline or a bisquit. If you look at your kitchen cabinets, they are probably made that way meaning they are routered in a way to increase the surface area to be glued. I enjoy watching your videos and I hope I was able to add some additional, useful information. God Bless Bob
tim sway I enjoyed the glue video, you forgot to mention indoor and outdoor project using glue in the freezing month... my poor fence gate came apart.... wrong type of glue.....grrrrrrr
That wood-breaking demonstration blew my mind - what a great way to show the power of a good glue bond! Also, I love that you called it "feeling frisky" about only waiting 30 min for glue to dry! Love your videos.
I think woodworkers should budget a little for "R&D" where they just experiment. I think a big thing that's left out is getting people to do these types of experiments. Or out weight on your chairs to see what the maximum weight it can hold is. How can you iterate on your designs you're using.
I was taught this method by an elderly woodworking teacher at School in the seventies still use it today works a treat still surprised that it not more widespread
I've been team Titebond III for wood for years now. It's waterproof, FDA approved for food contact, non-toxic, has a decently long working time and is the strongest of Titebond's three basic glues. It depends on who your audience is, where whatever you're building is going to be used and who's going to be using it. I build a lot of cutting boards and coasters which are going to both going to into contact with food and water. I also build a lot of toys for kids in the family and cabinets, tables, storage benches and other bits that are going to be used by family, friends and most destructively their kids. One thing little kids all do for a time is put their mouths on everything and spill food on things and then pick it up and eat it without a thought as well. I don't want a little nephew to be sucking on a toy train (he has) or eating of of his train table (again, he has) and worry about him getting sick because of the glue I used.
I can't imagine why 217 people disliked this. It's clear and informative and fast-paced. I'm not a fan of backgound music in how-to videos, but at least, in this one, it doesn't drown out the voice.
The more I know, the more I realize I don't know. You made this very clear to me with your glue video! Thanks for the education. It was fun and educational. Thank you!
Glue and gluing is an essential component of woodworking. It's not exactly something that requires a lot of skill or technique, but I have a few tips that should get you started. Here's what you need to know about glue: the BASICS. Do you have a favorite adhesive? Let us know what works well for you and if you have any gluing tips and tricks to share.
+Steve Ramsey I always use a silicone brush to apply the glue, it easily washes off and is reusable. Also I do prefer Titebond II it's the best glue I've used so far. Do you shop at Rockler Woodworking for any of your supplies?
+Steve Ramsey One trick i use in case i can't use brad nails is; spread the wood glue but leave some spots where i will drop some drops of cyanoacrylate glue on one side and spray activator on the other part so when both parts touch it will create an instant bond and act as it was brad nailed . Also works with contact cement, mixing/using two types of glue can be very helpful in those cases where it is hard to clamp or the piece won't allow nails or any other hardware. Hope that helps ;)
Very informative video. I am not a master woodworker yet but I am a master wood glue peeler like yourself. There is just something satisfying about peeling wood glue off of fingers and brushes. Glad to see that I am not the only weirdo out there. Excellent video.
Pro Tip for excess glue removal. Don’t wipe it off while it’s still wet because that will spread it into the surrounding wood and will be harder to remove and may even ruin your finish. Instead let the glue dry as it is and once dried it is easily peeled or scraped off without staining any excess would.
Yep. New to woodworking and am varnishing my first project. Looks awful where I wiped the glue away. Next time I wont touch it and after it dries for 15 min I'll scrape off with chisel. I worry scraping off after it fully hardens will chip the wood.
This may sound odd, but you totally remind me of Phil’s dad off of modern family. I love how upbeat you always are. I hope I can teach my kids as well as this. Hopefully we will be done building our beginners workshop by the end of the month
Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA) glues like basic school glue and basic wood glue, are plastic polymers emulsified in water with the help of surfactants and other additives. As the water dries, the plastic polymers congeal into a continuous plastic film. Unfortunately, the surfactants and such stay with the film. This means that exposing the dried film to water can re-emulsify the polymer to some degree. Higher performance emulsifying technology can reduce the tendency to re-emulsify and that gives us a PVA glue that can withstand soaking in room temperature water. The adhesive industry calls this a Type II adhesive. Further improvements can be had by adding cross linking technology which makes the congealed plastic film much higher in molecular weight than the original emulsified polymer. This makes a PVA glue that can withstand being soaked in boiling water. Confusingly, the adhesive industry calls this a Type I adhesive. Titebond III is a Type I adhesive with crosslinking technology.
In certain fields like mine (instrument making and repair), the fact that wood glue joints come apart easily with heat and water is an asset. Means that as long as an instrument maker didn’t use some weird epoxy (which has been happening more and more recently) you can easily take the joint apart without damaging anything using a bit of steam and some patience.
Absolute dude. This channel "Does what it says on the tin" (not sure if that makes sense to anyone other than UK viewers?) Thanks for sharing your years of woodworking experience with us. A+
Awesome video, Steve. But you missed a great opportunity. At about 4:54 you mentioned using a brad nailer to act as clamps during the bonding process. And how brads leave visible holes to deal with later. Although this is not a gluing technique, it is a great tip to hide those nail holes. I'm sure you know this tip. But you may have some viewers who don't. Add a small drop of wood glue to the nail holes and run an orbital sander over the area. As it sands, it forces the sand particles into the nail holes and covers them completely. And because you are sanding the piece with holes in it, the matches the wood shade perfectly. Thanx for your great videos, Steve. I watch them all.
I use wood glue to remove tiny cactus thorns from my hand or fingers. Put some over the thorn, let it dry and peal it off with the thorns attached. I wished it worked on wood splinters under the fingernail, ouch.
where were you 20 years ago? xD We used to had a cactus with these tiny motherfucker hairlike thorns. Every time you accidentally hit it you had like millions of these thorns in your skin. A bitch to get them all out.
Thanks so much for this series Steve. I am just getting into wood working and despite many claims out there of videos that state they are for beginners there really aren't many that systematically and comprehensively cover the topics you are covering here. Keep up the great work good sir!
Steve I'm just a bit of a shop hacker in wood working and don't have much space in my garage shop but I do appreciate all of your help . Most of my projects are for Halloween or Christmas props , but each time I watch one of your videos I'm learning something .Thank You ARNOLD.
Love your information. glueing up a series of small wood for box. I found using a sharp puddy knife to run along the glued surface removes almost all the glue especially if surfaces are not even you can run along the lower surface and get it "all." Also cutting a plastic straw at a 45˚ angle can be used to move along the glue line and remove it cleanly.
your videos are like the notes one take then goes back to them when needed. I've been returning to this one over and over again alongside with the other intimate videos. . شكرا جزيلا
really enjoy your videos. one thing i learned when i would be in my grandfathers shop watching him, he used saw dust from the wood he was working on ( scrap piece, sand with some 80 grit) and mix it with wood glue and use it as a putty to fill the nail holes. it stains the same color and never knew the difference.
I have become a fan of your videos, as a newbie to wood working, your presentation style makes the subject more interesting and I retain more than the dry presentation of others. Who would guess I would enjoy a video on "glue" ???
Hey bud I know nothing about woodwork and it's something I really want to get into. Your videos are super full with information about things I've never knew about. Thank you bud you got my subscription
A tip for removing excess squeezed-out glue is to use a damp or even quite wet cloth - you will remove excess far more effectively and do much less sanding once it's dry. Glue will also be less likely to be absorbed into the grain of the piece you are making, which can be visible when varnishing or oiling later in the project and almost impossible to remove at that stage.
I use Weldbond glue and I am VERY satisfied. Weldbond is indeed an all around glue. Steve, this was a great video and I thank you . Cheers from Canada.
I just discovered your videos, and I have to agree with @budietoyka. Also, just as a funny aside, has anyone ever suggested your could be a cross between Fred Willard and Ty Burrell? I mean that in the best way possible.
Hey, Steve! Love the tips you shared. What's your tip for loosing wood glue at joints? I'm building a bathroom vanity and there is a piece I need to remove and reattach without it being crooked. Any tips?? Thanks!!
nowonmetube well if you're clamping them together and use fine salt then the salt will probably be embedded into the wood to where it says flat properly.
what about picking the dried cheese off the nachos platter...you can eat the dried cheese, unlike the dried glue or the dried boogers from picking your nose.
Just a few additions from my side: Instead of just using a dry cloth, use a damp cloth. Removes the glue much better and easier. Use something like cotton only, other materials will leave fluffs behind. Don't use paper towels, really messy. When using wood glue, clamping can be difficult because the surfaces 'skate' away. Some people use 'biscuits' or dowels to prevent that. Another good, very simple and cheap technique, is using tiny little nails. Just hammer the nails in one side, cut off the heads and join the two wood pieces together. One type of glue I am missing in this video which is widely used in (mostly cabinet like) constructions is PU glue (or construction/foam glue). It's is not the nicest glue to work with, because it is extremely sticky (so use gloves or be careful!). PU glue expands and therefor is very useful to tighten joints like recessed , dovetail joints etc. Real professional products (like big PA loudspeakers etc) are mostly glued with this. Wood glue can be perfectly used for veneering. Just roll glue on veneer and piece of wood and let it dry for 10-25 minutes (until it's is just sticky/almost dry), meanwhile heat up an iron. Ones the iron is warm enough, just put the two pieces together and press firmly on the iron, the heat reactivates the glue. Now just simply go over the whole surface area and finish with a roller. Wood glue can be used to repair (old) paper loudspeaker cones. Use paper towel and pull/rip it in little pieces. Mix the wood glue with a tiny bit of water. Put some glue/water mix on the gap/crack with a little brush. Now add the little pieces of paper towel and cover them up again with some glue/water mix. Let it dry for 12-24 hours. This only works for small gaps and don't use toilet paper (it contains some strange kind of glue that doesn't dissolve) Last funny little detail. Wood glue looks yellowish in the USA, in Europe (and many other parts of the world) it's white colored. (dries up transparent)
Hey Steve, Just a quick tip for filling those unsightly nail holes, you probably already know this though! Mix some of the sanding saw dust (the fine stuff, not from your saw) with some glue and fill the hole. It nearly disappears and takes stain pretty well too. For bigger holes, I do use saw dust from the table saw sometimes. The courser material mimics the grain better than fine dust. It's not as invisible, but it beats starting over sometimes!
Hey Steve, You were talking about that you can't fill nail holes to match the wood. Well an old Indian trick is... to use the saw dust from the wood that you're using mixed with a little glue. Your nail holes, once sanded, will accept the stain and become invisible.
Does that work well for you? I've never had much luck matching the color with that method. It always seems slightly off, maybe because of the yellow color in the glue?
+Steve Ramsey I agree. Wooddust doesn't respond to stain like whole wood particularly if it has titebond mixed in with it... Tibebond inhibits stain saturation. Shellac sticks come in many colors and work well.
+Steve Ramsey Could be the yellow in the glue would give you problems. I don't remember the brand I used but it was white and dried clear. I used more saw dust than glue so maybe that's why it worked well for me.
A drinking straw does a good job of cleaning glue out of corners and tight places . Just crease the straw so it has a sharp point glue goes into the staw. clean the straw by squeezing the straw on every joint
I watched one of you video today on types of screws. When you acknowledged that Robertson screws worked well (best IMO) I realized that you seemed to know what you were talking about, and I subscribed. This video is excellent !!
I do a lot of fretwork with my scrollsaw, and often want to mount a piece of fretwork onto a piece of contrasting background. If I try to apply the glue with a brush or my fingers, the glue tends to run down into the holes where it is almost impossible to clean up. I have found the best tool for this is a four inch paint roller. Pour some glue onto a scrap piece of Plexiglas, and load up your roller. Then you can very quickly roll on an even layer of glue over the whole piece, and if you do it right, you will get almost no squeeze-out. Then I place the whole thing between two pieces of 3/4" plywood and set a bucket of sand on top as a weight/clamp. Make sure that your plywood pieces are dead flat, and that your glued surfaces do not slide around as you handle them. This is also a useful technique when you want to glue the flat sides of two boards or plywood together, because, with the roller, you can apply a lot of glue to a very large area before it starts to dry.
Thank you for teaching me the basics - first time I've watched you and love you already. TO TITEBOND - please sponsor this man! I bought your glue off this video and it worked wonders on my broken door! 😉
Hey, Steve, an observation from my own (admittedly, limited experiences) so far. I suspect that if you live in high-humidity areas (Florida, SE Texas) that you probably want to use Tite Bond III over TB-II. It has to do with the way the two work, which is in opposition to each other. TB-II gives up moisture to the air to dry. In FL, where I am, it was 75 degrees out -- in the middle of winter -- and 45% humidity, which is about as low as the humidity gets. I was trying to do a glue up with TB-II, and, after **36h of setting**, it was still WET INSIDE... needless to say, it was failing miserably. Part of that was that the wood was damp, too, because... humidity, again. But I had done a lap joint, using a router to remove half of each board... So there was a lot of surface area to be grabbed. No luck. TB-III, otoh, works by absorbing moisture. The glue up I was doing was set inside 3-4 hours, and had a good, strong bond. The downside (as you no doubt are aware) is that it "foams", meaning it'll need some additional after-cleaning/prep, which is no doubt a pain but not as much as waiting two weeks to actually complete the setting process. This isn't a complaint, I just thought your viewers might want to be aware of this if they happen to live in one of those areas, or anywhere else where humidity runs at not much under 50%. I suggest they try TB-III in those areas.
Wow you have a lot of space in your woodworking area. I like the timber storage utility you have. By the way, good video. I lot of UA-camrs could learn by the way you keep it brief. Thank you and Well done!
PVA is a white substance that seems to be used on a lot of projects -- it's used as paper glue, for sealing fresh plaster prior to painting, and as a wood glue. In the UK it is the most readily available product for those sorts of uses. I've never seen Titebond for sale in my local hardware store. Have you ever used PVA, I notice it was not amongst your array of bottles in the video. So do you know how it compares to other wood glues such as Titebond?
This channel is so great. I am a newbie when it comes to wood working but I am enjoying it so much and with this channel it makes it nice to be able to find answers from someone so nice and knowledgeable
+Iqeatbal Ismail you apply glue to one surface and sprinkle a little bit of salt into it, then you put the other piece of wood onto it and the salt caused friction so the two pieces of wood can't slide around past each other.
No seconding guessing or fussing over multiple options over small differences. Just go straight to the solution in each distinctive situation. Well done!
I always new wood gluing would strengthen any work esp in my case a bed for jumping kids but didn't realise the importance of different types out there. Amazing! I googled recently what's best for metal to metal and got epoxy, although other sites mentioned another type. Very entertaining informative video, thanks!
Great video. End grain to edge gluing more complex than video indicates, for larger projects. I used laminated white oak (very open grain), for about 30" table top, with a frame" of 4" walnut on the ends. Joint blew apart due to expansion/contraction of white oak grain with humidity/temperature changes - about 1/8". Best approach is to use a spline on the edge.
Steve the Glubot is mind blowing. It is a tremendous cost saver by buying by the gallon. Then on top of it the function is so great. I use alot of glue and it is beautiful. As usual I have learned incredibly good info from you. Thanks
Since getting hooked on woodworking videos a few months ago I've wondered about the wood glue used in North American videos. It's always yellow, while here in South Africa wood glue is always a white glue, also known as cold glue. It is PVA based and dries clear. I've been wondering if it is pretty much the same stuff, and if so why is ours white while yours is yellow?
+Steve Crane I (from uk) have wondered the same, so it was intreasting to finally get some names. Intreastingly, "titbond ii" or 'yellow glue', as well as 'weldbond' glue are both PVA based glues. So, yes, they must be fairly similar. Yellow glue must have some addative - i wonder if it does more then just make it yellow.
Ok, did some looking into that question. There's some disagreement on it, but here goes, what consensus there is from where I looked: There IS a dye added that does not affect anything but color, BUT, the (yellow) titebond2 DOES have an additive (aliphatic resin) that DOES improve tack, DOES change the dried glue's hardness, DOES raise the glue's softening temperature once dry, etc, even tho some on the wood glue forum (omg) still insist there is no additive and the yellow is marketing bs. (Wrong I think but with a teeny kernel of truth). A white PVA may have this additive too, like yours maybe, and I hear titebond has a wood molding glue (moulding to you I think) that is both white and has the highest tack of any titebond wood glue. Smart place for high tack I think. Titebond2 is sorta the standard wood glue in the USA, but not the only. My sense is that most are yellow, maybe cuz they're trying to bite into the leader's marketshare. Sorry you asked?
If I'm not mistaken, Titebond is marketed here in South Africa by licence under the Alcolin brand. Imported in bulk and bottled locally, and also available in a variety of types.
+Steve Ramsey Titebond 3 machines better. Won't wear down your planer blades as quick . Example in Cutting Boards. They say it is also food safe. Although all glues and finishes are food safe after they become inert/dry.
So I am working on a solid body guitar, and I glued 2 inch thick pieces of figured maple together to make a top. Assuming that Titebond 3 was better since it was slightly more expensive, (and because it's "3" and not "2"), I used that. Luckily I planed my boards very well, and there's no visible glue line on the face of the boards, but the back side which will be glued to walnut does have a nasty dark glue line. I should probably just go buy some titebond 2 before I screw something up, shouldn't I?
Crestabond M1-05 is by far the strongest adhesive I've ever used. If you need to glue 2 different materials together, this is your stuff. and its pretty inexpensive and comes in a 2 part tube, you can leave the top off indefinitely and it wont go off until you mix the 2 parts. Wood to metal, metal to fibreglass, fabric to fibreglass. Just 10 minutes curing time and your done. It can act as a filler too, if you've got a gap of 4 or 5 mm to fill, slap it on and let it cure, sand it off, job done. Fantastic stuff!
I'm just now discovering your channel here on UA-cam and I am blown away. I've been kind of binge watching in fact! I'm learning about wood working in hopes that I can do more things for myself - basically, I need shop projects more than anything "fancy." All I have at this time is a table saw. (In fact your table saw videos were the first ones I watched: imagine my chagrin when I realized that the rip fence is *really important*...) I used this saw to build two platform-style beds, one with (not very good) boxes underneath. The beds are strong and all. I'm just astonished I didn't lose a finger, going at it as I did with zero safety knowledge...talk about pushing your luck! I'm coming at this learning from what might seem an odd angle - I make jewelry. I'm not yet ready for "advanced techniques" in that - in other words anything that requires fire! - but I am already long past the point where I am in desperate need of storage, storage, and more storage. I have cobbled together various solutions from this and that. But cardboard boxes and plastic parts bins will only go so far for me: I also have to store a huge number of "one off" type parts and pieces - focals that are partially assembled, large or unusual beads, and so forth. Right now all I *can* do is jumble them all together in the biggest parts bin I have, and the separators in it just aren't enough to really organize any of it. My first thought was "hey, surely something already exists that I can purchase to deal with this mess." There is: old printer's cabinets, once used to hold the metal bits for typesetting, are wide and and long, but not deep, and have bunches of teeny compartments. And they cost an arm and a leg!!! So here I am.
I was a glue/veneer specialist for most of my life and I think you did a great job.
You might want to mention waterproof, and water resistant glues for exterior applications. And also, what kinds of glues will stick to oily woods like teak and how the application of denatured alcohol on the surface to be glued will remove the surface oil and prepare the piece for the application of the glue.
It has been my experience that the wood should be clamped very tight. Those water based glues like you were using, tend to shrink as they dry. When brushing on the glue, brush in both directions to work the glue into the pores. Brushing in one direction will pull the glue out of the pores.
Polyurathane glues like Gorilla glue will expand as it dries so you need to be carefull or you will have a mess to clean up. Because it expands, you won't need to worry about a tight clamp.
If gluing something thin, it's alway best to use a backer board that covers the entire area and be sure the clamps are in close proximitry so you squeese out the glue. You can coat the backer with any kind of wax like butchers wax and the glue will not stick to it.
What you did with the screws on the end was great and is exactly how I use to do it. Another neat trick is to increase the surface area by using a spline or a bisquit. If you look at your kitchen cabinets, they are probably made that way meaning they are routered in a way to increase the surface area to be glued.
I enjoy watching your videos and I hope I was able to add some additional, useful information. God Bless
Bob
Thanks for this comment. This will really help me with my college project of building a stand-up paddle board. I'm worried about the gluing the most.
Adding Biscuits for extra strength is a bit of a myth but very good for accurate alignment.
@@christianpetersen1782 Yup! But they really do make a huge difference for accurate alignment that's for sure. I love them for that.
This is a quality comment! Thanks for sharing!!!! :)
Thanks for sharing. Thats why i love woodworking comunity
silicone brush: waaaayyyy more fun than washing a paint brush. thanks!!
tim sway I enjoyed the glue video, you forgot to mention indoor and outdoor project using glue in the freezing month... my poor fence gate came apart.... wrong type of glue.....grrrrrrr
Yeah tim
@@lucdesmarais I don't know what part of CA he's in but he likely doesn't need to worry about freezing temps
I use old hack saw blades to spread the glue. The rougher one leaves pretty close to the perfect amount behind.
this video is going to stick with me for sure.
Ayyyyy
What a tacky reply. 😁
These puns are killing me. But I love them! 💛
Glue your arse
That wood-breaking demonstration blew my mind - what a great way to show the power of a good glue bond!
Also, I love that you called it "feeling frisky" about only waiting 30 min for glue to dry! Love your videos.
I think woodworkers should budget a little for "R&D" where they just experiment. I think a big thing that's left out is getting people to do these types of experiments. Or out weight on your chairs to see what the maximum weight it can hold is. How can you iterate on your designs you're using.
To recover nails holes, i usually use the powder i sanded from the wood itself, mixed with a transparent glue, works like a charm.
Wow!!! I can't believe it- I thought I was the inventor of that. Great minds think alike. Actually, I have saved some in a plastic jar.
Sixty years ago when I was an aeromodeller I used to mix balsa sanding with balsa cement and use it as a filler. It matched perfectly with the wood.
This is what I would recommend..
I was taught this method by an elderly woodworking teacher at School in the seventies still use it today works a treat still surprised that it not more widespread
Use drywall compound.
I've been team Titebond III for wood for years now. It's waterproof, FDA approved for food contact, non-toxic, has a decently long working time and is the strongest of Titebond's three basic glues. It depends on who your audience is, where whatever you're building is going to be used and who's going to be using it. I build a lot of cutting boards and coasters which are going to both going to into contact with food and water. I also build a lot of toys for kids in the family and cabinets, tables, storage benches and other bits that are going to be used by family, friends and most destructively their kids. One thing little kids all do for a time is put their mouths on everything and spill food on things and then pick it up and eat it without a thought as well. I don't want a little nephew to be sucking on a toy train (he has) or eating of of his train table (again, he has) and worry about him getting sick because of the glue I used.
I can't imagine why 217 people disliked this. It's clear and informative and fast-paced. I'm not a fan of backgound music in how-to videos, but at least, in this one, it doesn't drown out the voice.
Old video, but still gold.
Very details and helpful. Thank you Steve.
You, sir, are an excellent teacher. Thanks! 😊
I am enjoying all these tips on glue. I am a 72 yr woman and love to work with wood. These tips will come in handy for me
The more I know, the more I realize I don't know. You made this very clear to me with your glue video! Thanks for the education. It was fun and educational. Thank you!
I could watch a microjig skit compilation video all day. The way you do them really gives a chuckle.
Glue and gluing is an essential component of woodworking. It's not exactly something that requires a lot of skill or technique, but I have a few tips that should get you started. Here's what you need to know about glue: the BASICS. Do you have a favorite adhesive? Let us know what works well for you and if you have any gluing tips and tricks to share.
+Steve Ramsey I love Titebond and hope to do a video sometime comparing the different types. Thanks for the video :)
can you make a medal and trophy display i want to make one for my little brother he has alot of medal and some trophies
+Steve Ramsey I always use a silicone brush to apply the glue, it easily washes off and is reusable. Also I do prefer Titebond II it's the best glue I've used so far. Do you shop at Rockler Woodworking for any of your supplies?
+Steve Ramsey One trick i use in case i can't use brad nails is; spread the wood glue but leave some spots where i will drop some drops of cyanoacrylate glue on one side and spray activator on the other part so when both parts touch it will create an instant bond and act as it was brad nailed . Also works with contact cement, mixing/using two types of glue can be very helpful in those cases where it is hard to clamp or the piece won't allow nails or any other hardware. Hope that helps ;)
Can you make this video as educational so I can use it in my school
Very informative video. I am not a master woodworker yet but I am a master wood glue peeler like yourself. There is just something satisfying about peeling wood glue off of fingers and brushes. Glad to see that I am not the only weirdo out there. Excellent video.
Pro Tip for excess glue removal. Don’t wipe it off while it’s still wet because that will spread it into the surrounding wood and will be harder to remove and may even ruin your finish. Instead let the glue dry as it is and once dried it is easily peeled or scraped off without staining any excess would.
Is there any surface prep, like shellac, that will be an assistant to repel the glue during final glue up of inlays...?
Put some painter's tape just outside the joint, let the goo spooge out onto that, then peel it right off.@@mrpoolplayer6379
I've used a damp sponge before and it seemed to work well
Yep. New to woodworking and am varnishing my first project. Looks awful where I wiped the glue away. Next time I wont touch it and after it dries for 15 min I'll scrape off with chisel. I worry scraping off after it fully hardens will chip the wood.
This may sound odd, but you totally remind me of Phil’s dad off of modern family. I love how upbeat you always are. I hope I can teach my kids as well as this. Hopefully we will be done building our beginners workshop by the end of the month
Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA) glues like basic school glue and basic wood glue, are plastic polymers emulsified in water with the help of surfactants and other additives. As the water dries, the plastic polymers congeal into a continuous plastic film. Unfortunately, the surfactants and such stay with the film. This means that exposing the dried film to water can re-emulsify the polymer to some degree. Higher performance emulsifying technology can reduce the tendency to re-emulsify and that gives us a PVA glue that can withstand soaking in room temperature water. The adhesive industry calls this a Type II adhesive. Further improvements can be had by adding cross linking technology which makes the congealed plastic film much higher in molecular weight than the original emulsified polymer. This makes a PVA glue that can withstand being soaked in boiling water. Confusingly, the adhesive industry calls this a Type I adhesive. Titebond III is a Type I adhesive with crosslinking technology.
LAME !!!!!
@@dillwiggle2 Just because you don't understand it doesn't make it lame. Thanks 1arm_65 for the explanation.
@@mikecurtin9831 It's true all MIke's are LOSERS
In certain fields like mine (instrument making and repair), the fact that wood glue joints come apart easily with heat and water is an asset. Means that as long as an instrument maker didn’t use some weird epoxy (which has been happening more and more recently) you can easily take the joint apart without damaging anything using a bit of steam and some patience.
you have heard of wood, right? It doesn't like heat and moisture either.
Absolute dude. This channel "Does what it says on the tin" (not sure if that makes sense to anyone other than UK viewers?) Thanks for sharing your years of woodworking experience with us. A+
Steve, your videos continue to form the basis of my woodworking education. Thank you for the great work!
The analogy with the straws was really helpful, thanks
your intros are one of the few intros I actually enjoy!
Awesome video, Steve. But you missed a great opportunity. At about 4:54 you mentioned using a brad nailer to act as clamps during the bonding process. And how brads leave visible holes to deal with later. Although this is not a gluing technique, it is a great tip to hide those nail holes.
I'm sure you know this tip. But you may have some viewers who don't. Add a small drop of wood glue to the nail holes and run an orbital sander over the area. As it sands, it forces the sand particles into the nail holes and covers them completely. And because you are sanding the piece with holes in it, the matches the wood shade perfectly.
Thanx for your great videos, Steve. I watch them all.
I use wood glue to remove tiny cactus thorns from my hand or fingers. Put some over the thorn, let it dry and peal it off with the thorns attached. I wished it worked on wood splinters under the fingernail, ouch.
Awesome! Tape and rubber cement too.
+Eugene Lanzl thank you santa! :)
Thanks Eugene! I always have cactus needles in my fingers from caring for mine. I'll try this for sure.
where were you 20 years ago? xD We used to had a cactus with these tiny motherfucker hairlike thorns. Every time you accidentally hit it you had like millions of these thorns in your skin. A bitch to get them all out.
Avenged84: for a family site your language is atrocious and not acceptable. Please edit your post using appropriate language.
You are the Bill Nye of woodworking. I have been binge watching your videos and it's been awesome. Thanks for making these.
Thanks so much for this series Steve. I am just getting into wood working and despite many claims out there of videos that state they are for beginners there really aren't many that systematically and comprehensively cover the topics you are covering here. Keep up the great work good sir!
Steve I'm just a bit of a shop hacker in wood working and don't have much space in my garage shop but I do appreciate all of your help . Most of my projects are for Halloween or Christmas props , but each time I watch one of your videos I'm learning something .Thank You ARNOLD.
Great tips and I really like your energy, that makes for a very interesting video about a subject that could be otherwise boring.
As a beginnger this was unbelievably helpful, thank you!
Love your information. glueing up a series of small wood for box. I found using a sharp puddy knife to run along the glued surface removes almost all the glue especially if surfaces are not even you can run along the lower surface and get it "all." Also cutting a plastic straw at a 45˚ angle can be used to move along the glue line and remove it cleanly.
One of the most professional video makers on the channel. Well planned and edited. So refreshing.
You forgot to mention the glue that holds us all together every Friday Steve, that would be you and WWMM! Thanks again Steve.
your videos are like the notes one take then goes back to them when needed.
I've been returning to this one over and over again alongside with the other intimate videos.
. شكرا جزيلا
I like this type of videos, it would be nice if you could make more of them.
+Dryadwoods Thanks! I try to do one a month.
Totally agree, please make more!
really enjoy your videos. one thing i learned when i would be in my grandfathers shop watching him, he used saw dust from the wood he was working on ( scrap piece, sand with some 80 grit) and mix it with wood glue and use it as a putty to fill the nail
holes. it stains the same color and never knew the difference.
Cool, I enjoyed the video Steve. I've never heard of Weldbond but it sounds like good stuff!
+April Wilkerson Great channel ^^
@April... I made the mistake of going to your channel... OMG fell in love... You got a new sub!!
April Wilkerson - Gorilla wood glue is also a PVA glue that dries clear.
I have become a fan of your videos, as a newbie to wood working, your presentation style makes the subject more interesting and I retain more than the dry presentation of others. Who would guess I would enjoy a video on "glue" ???
Another thoughtful, concise explanation. I really appreciate it, Steve!
Hey bud I know nothing about woodwork and it's something I really want to get into. Your videos are super full with information about things I've never knew about. Thank you bud you got my subscription
A tip for removing excess squeezed-out glue is to use a damp or even quite wet cloth - you will remove excess far more effectively and do much less sanding once it's dry. Glue will also be less likely to be absorbed into the grain of the piece you are making, which can be visible when varnishing or oiling later in the project and almost impossible to remove at that stage.
beginner woodworker here and watching your videos has really helped me out! thanks for the cool videos. I like your enthusiasm
Tip: When buying glue or an epoxy, make sure you know whether it dries clear or not. I bought something recently that dried yellow.
Yes. This is a very good Tip. I had the same problem. Now I see on the label if it dries clear, white or any other color. THANK YOU for this Tip.
This is the first video I have come across about glues. Its an eye opener on joinery. Thanks.
You should teach teachers how to teach !! so simple ,so clear , BRILLIANT !!
I use Weldbond glue and I am VERY satisfied. Weldbond is indeed an all around glue. Steve, this was a great video and I thank you . Cheers from Canada.
apart from being great woodworker you're also hilarious! I love you man!
I just discovered your videos, and I have to agree with @budietoyka. Also, just as a funny aside, has anyone ever suggested your could be a cross between Fred Willard and Ty Burrell? I mean that in the best way possible.
Thanks Steve -- didn't even know I needed to know so much about glue!!! You probably saved me a lot of mistakes and headaches!
thanks for the end grain tip..never knew that!!🤔😆
So much wood working tips from your videos Steve, i'm always watching here from the Philippines. 😃😃😃
Hey, Steve! Love the tips you shared. What's your tip for loosing wood glue at joints? I'm building a bathroom vanity and there is a piece I need to remove and reattach without it being crooked. Any tips?? Thanks!!
So? What did u do?
If parts slip while trying to clamp sprinkle on some table salt. The parts won't move. Great video.
I use hardwood sawdust.
Skully Wood & Metal yeah but the parts don't lay flat so you shouldn't really do that!
nowonmetube well if you're clamping them together and use fine salt then the salt will probably be embedded into the wood to where it says flat properly.
LazyH-Online lol that's just a theoretical thing that would NEVER work irl, lol!
nowonmetube really? Huh, cant say I ever had a problem with the method before, and I'm assuming both myself and my projects exist in real life.
Woodworking newbie. Was just looking for ways to make a planter, came across your videos and now I'm a wood glue expert. Subscribed.
Great video. You answered questions I didn't know I had.
You have made homeownership so much easier for me! Thank you, Steve!!
Not many things more satisfying than picking dry or half-dry wood glue.
what about picking the dried cheese off the nachos platter...you can eat the dried cheese, unlike the dried glue or the dried boogers from picking your nose.
Some great tips especially gluing end grains and also using a silicone brush. Thanks for sharing.
Just a few additions from my side:
Instead of just using a dry cloth, use a damp cloth. Removes the glue much better and easier.
Use something like cotton only, other materials will leave fluffs behind.
Don't use paper towels, really messy.
When using wood glue, clamping can be difficult because the surfaces 'skate' away.
Some people use 'biscuits' or dowels to prevent that.
Another good, very simple and cheap technique, is using tiny little nails.
Just hammer the nails in one side, cut off the heads and join the two wood pieces together.
One type of glue I am missing in this video which is widely used in (mostly cabinet like) constructions is PU glue (or construction/foam glue).
It's is not the nicest glue to work with, because it is extremely sticky (so use gloves or be careful!).
PU glue expands and therefor is very useful to tighten joints like recessed , dovetail joints etc.
Real professional products (like big PA loudspeakers etc) are mostly glued with this.
Wood glue can be perfectly used for veneering.
Just roll glue on veneer and piece of wood and let it dry for 10-25 minutes (until it's is just sticky/almost dry), meanwhile heat up an iron.
Ones the iron is warm enough, just put the two pieces together and press firmly on the iron, the heat reactivates the glue.
Now just simply go over the whole surface area and finish with a roller.
Wood glue can be used to repair (old) paper loudspeaker cones.
Use paper towel and pull/rip it in little pieces.
Mix the wood glue with a tiny bit of water.
Put some glue/water mix on the gap/crack with a little brush.
Now add the little pieces of paper towel and cover them up again with some glue/water mix.
Let it dry for 12-24 hours.
This only works for small gaps and don't use toilet paper (it contains some strange kind of glue that doesn't dissolve)
Last funny little detail.
Wood glue looks yellowish in the USA, in Europe (and many other parts of the world) it's white colored.
(dries up transparent)
Hey Steve, Just a quick tip for filling those unsightly nail holes, you probably already know this though! Mix some of the sanding saw dust (the fine stuff, not from your saw) with some glue and fill the hole. It nearly disappears and takes stain pretty well too. For bigger holes, I do use saw dust from the table saw sometimes. The courser material mimics the grain better than fine dust. It's not as invisible, but it beats starting over sometimes!
Hey Steve, You were talking about that you can't fill nail holes to match the wood.
Well an old Indian trick is... to use the saw dust from the wood that you're using mixed with a little glue. Your nail holes, once sanded, will accept the stain and become invisible.
+HELLRAISER Why is this an "Indian" trick?
+Maybe Dave
Just an old expression carpenters have used for decades.
Does that work well for you? I've never had much luck matching the color with that method. It always seems slightly off, maybe because of the yellow color in the glue?
+Steve Ramsey I agree. Wooddust doesn't respond to stain like whole wood particularly if it has titebond mixed in with it... Tibebond inhibits stain saturation. Shellac sticks come in many colors and work well.
+Steve Ramsey
Could be the yellow in the glue would give you problems. I don't remember the brand I used but it was white and dried clear. I used more saw dust than glue so maybe that's why it worked well for me.
I found this video to be oddly more satisfying than I expected, very nice.
A drinking straw does a good job of cleaning glue out of corners and tight places . Just crease the straw so it has a sharp point glue goes into the staw. clean the straw by squeezing the straw on every joint
Or suck it up with the straw LOL
I watched one of you video today on types of screws. When you acknowledged that Robertson screws worked well (best IMO) I realized that you seemed to know what you were talking about, and I subscribed. This video is excellent !!
I do a lot of fretwork with my scrollsaw, and often want to mount a piece of fretwork onto a piece of contrasting background. If I try to apply the glue with a brush or my fingers, the glue tends to run down into the holes where it is almost impossible to clean up. I have found the best tool for this is a four inch paint roller. Pour some glue onto a scrap piece of Plexiglas, and load up your roller. Then you can very quickly roll on an even layer of glue over the whole piece, and if you do it right, you will get almost no squeeze-out. Then I place the whole thing between two pieces of 3/4" plywood and set a bucket of sand on top as a weight/clamp. Make sure that your plywood pieces are dead flat, and that your glued surfaces do not slide around as you handle them. This is also a useful technique when you want to glue the flat sides of two boards or plywood together, because, with the roller, you can apply a lot of glue to a very large area before it starts to dry.
Thank you for teaching me the basics - first time I've watched you and love you already. TO TITEBOND - please sponsor this man! I bought your glue off this video and it worked wonders on my broken door! 😉
Hey, Steve, an observation from my own (admittedly, limited experiences) so far.
I suspect that if you live in high-humidity areas (Florida, SE Texas) that you probably want to use Tite Bond III over TB-II.
It has to do with the way the two work, which is in opposition to each other.
TB-II gives up moisture to the air to dry. In FL, where I am, it was 75 degrees out -- in the middle of winter -- and 45% humidity, which is about as low as the humidity gets.
I was trying to do a glue up with TB-II, and, after **36h of setting**, it was still WET INSIDE... needless to say, it was failing miserably. Part of that was that the wood was damp, too, because... humidity, again. But I had done a lap joint, using a router to remove half of each board... So there was a lot of surface area to be grabbed. No luck.
TB-III, otoh, works by absorbing moisture. The glue up I was doing was set inside 3-4 hours, and had a good, strong bond.
The downside (as you no doubt are aware) is that it "foams", meaning it'll need some additional after-cleaning/prep, which is no doubt a pain but not as much as waiting two weeks to actually complete the setting process.
This isn't a complaint, I just thought your viewers might want to be aware of this if they happen to live in one of those areas, or anywhere else where humidity runs at not much under 50%. I suggest they try TB-III in those areas.
Thanks! My work is making customized violin chinrests and the gluing end grain you talked about surely helps me.
can u do a video on types of sanding methods and types of sanders plz.
+Ryan rohr To take it one step further I'd like to see sanding methods and using different papers to get the perfect finish.
great suggestion!
Thx.
+Steve Ramsey I'd like to see a video about finishing a project. Especially on how to remove tool marks properly before sanding. I never it all off...
Wow you have a lot of space in your woodworking area. I like the timber storage utility you have. By the way, good video. I lot of UA-camrs could learn by the way you keep it brief. Thank you and Well done!
PVA is a white substance that seems to be used on a lot of projects -- it's used as paper glue, for sealing fresh plaster prior to painting, and as a wood glue.
In the UK it is the most readily available product for those sorts of uses. I've never seen Titebond for sale in my local hardware store. Have you ever used PVA, I notice it was not amongst your array of bottles in the video.
So do you know how it compares to other wood glues such as Titebond?
apache16789 has
This channel is so great. I am a newbie when it comes to wood working but I am enjoying it so much and with this channel it makes it nice to be able to find answers from someone so nice and knowledgeable
you can use salt while your gluing things up to make sure that the wood doesn't slide around while you work on it.
+Iqeatbal Ismail you apply glue to one surface and sprinkle a little bit of salt into it, then you put the other piece of wood onto it and the salt caused friction so the two pieces of wood can't slide around past each other.
+The Russian Woodworker Won't the salt cause a reaction with the glue and have some deleterious effect?
+Gallande 34 hasn't happened tonme
Sorry but I could not understand what you meant.
Your basic ideas... really helpfull and appropriate for my daily projects... Thank you.
"The strongest is probably a pocket screw." You just *had* to poke the bear, didn't you? XD
...you get it Johnny Steen. Thank You.
you always sharing types for any project, your follower not only expert but for beginner very helpfull great job steve
A bit late to the party I know, but it seems like we should make things out of glue for superior durability ;)
Glue is plastic, Polyvinyl Acetate.
Do you guys know if I can do shou sugi ban on wood that I have glued?
No seconding guessing or fussing over multiple options over small differences. Just go straight to the solution in each distinctive situation. Well done!
Steve, watch this video, from Darbin Orvar: Glue Test Destruction - How Different Glues Perform
Epoxi is far more stronger than you think haha
+PortaTrekos But it's way too difficult to use.
And expensive, at least here in Brazil...
This has become one of my favorite channels in less than a day!
Love your enthusiasm and can't wait to get started.
The Microjig cut scene makes me crack up every time. Every. Single. Time.
I always new wood gluing would strengthen any work esp in my case a bed for jumping kids but didn't realise the importance of different types out there. Amazing! I googled recently what's best for metal to metal and got epoxy, although other sites mentioned another type. Very entertaining informative video, thanks!
can you do a video on wood glue vs construction adhesive?
Great video. End grain to edge gluing more complex than video indicates, for larger projects. I used laminated white oak (very open grain), for about 30" table top, with a frame" of 4" walnut on the ends. Joint blew apart due to expansion/contraction of white oak grain with humidity/temperature changes - about 1/8". Best approach is to use a spline on the edge.
“Sir this is the 8th time this month we have had to replace your debit card”
Steve the Glubot is mind blowing. It is a tremendous cost saver by buying by the gallon. Then on top of it the function is so great. I use alot of glue and it is beautiful. As usual I have learned incredibly good info from you. Thanks
Yup, Glubots rock!
Since getting hooked on woodworking videos a few months ago I've wondered about the wood glue used in North American videos. It's always yellow, while here in South Africa wood glue is always a white glue, also known as cold glue. It is PVA based and dries clear. I've been wondering if it is pretty much the same stuff, and if so why is ours white while yours is yellow?
+Steve Crane I (from uk) have wondered the same, so it was intreasting to finally get some names. Intreastingly, "titbond ii" or 'yellow glue', as well as 'weldbond' glue are both PVA based glues. So, yes, they must be fairly similar. Yellow glue must have some addative - i wonder if it does more then just make it yellow.
Ok, did some looking into that question. There's some disagreement on it, but here goes, what consensus there is from where I looked:
There IS a dye added that does not affect anything but color, BUT, the (yellow) titebond2 DOES have an additive (aliphatic resin) that DOES improve tack, DOES change the dried glue's hardness, DOES raise the glue's softening temperature once dry, etc, even tho some on the wood glue forum (omg) still insist there is no additive and the yellow is marketing bs. (Wrong I think but with a teeny kernel of truth). A white PVA may have this additive too, like yours maybe, and I hear titebond has a wood molding glue (moulding to you I think) that is both white and has the highest tack of any titebond wood glue. Smart place for high tack I think. Titebond2 is sorta the standard wood glue in the USA, but not the only. My sense is that most are yellow, maybe cuz they're trying to bite into the leader's marketshare. Sorry you asked?
If I'm not mistaken, Titebond is marketed here in South Africa by licence under the Alcolin brand. Imported in bulk and bottled locally, and also available in a variety of types.
Your fast and concise. Thanks for the lesson.
you can use tape or rubber bans to clamping the wood
yeah it's fine for most small projects
What type of glue would you use on a project that may require 30 minutes or more to assemble
This video really stuck for us!
for filling the small holes i would put a dab of glue in the holes then smear it with sawdust from the same type of timber. then sand it smooth
Lots to use. Perfect for a mere mortal. Gonna check-out more of your vids after decking-out my first house.
also, thanks to my own experimentation, all glue tastes awful...also, i may need a doctor
Au contraire. Library paste has a wide appeal to the young gourmand.
Dried glue on postal stamps and mailing envelopes probably tastes great. That's why many people used to lick it. :-)
Yeah, it’s not only bus windows that are so tasty.
Thanks for specifying environmental impact as a factor in choosing the right glue.
But what should I use if I want a nice black line along my glue seam?!?!
+p burr Titebond 3!
+Steve Ramsey Titebond 3 machines better. Won't wear down your planer blades as quick . Example in Cutting Boards. They say it is also food safe. Although all glues and finishes are food safe after they become inert/dry.
So I am working on a solid body guitar, and I glued 2 inch thick pieces of figured maple together to make a top. Assuming that Titebond 3 was better since it was slightly more expensive, (and because it's "3" and not "2"), I used that. Luckily I planed my boards very well, and there's no visible glue line on the face of the boards, but the back side which will be glued to walnut does have a nasty dark glue line. I should probably just go buy some titebond 2 before I screw something up, shouldn't I?
still haven't found a good situation to use titebond 3. TB2 all the way baby
Crestabond M1-05 is by far the strongest adhesive I've ever used. If you need to glue 2 different materials together, this is your stuff. and its pretty inexpensive and comes in a 2 part tube, you can leave the top off indefinitely and it wont go off until you mix the 2 parts. Wood to metal, metal to fibreglass, fabric to fibreglass. Just 10 minutes curing time and your done. It can act as a filler too, if you've got a gap of 4 or 5 mm to fill, slap it on and let it cure, sand it off, job done. Fantastic stuff!
Aha, sure "satisfying like removing and examining a splinter"
Me thinks you're confusing splinter with booger.
I like you, the way you explain things where no fakeness comes between.
Loved the analogy with the straws. Keep up the good work
I appreciate your instructions and pointers. I especially like your evaluations on why you choose one product over
another.
I'm just now discovering your channel here on UA-cam and I am blown away. I've been kind of binge watching in fact!
I'm learning about wood working in hopes that I can do more things for myself - basically, I need shop projects more than anything "fancy." All I have at this time is a table saw. (In fact your table saw videos were the first ones I watched: imagine my chagrin when I realized that the rip fence is *really important*...) I used this saw to build two platform-style beds, one with (not very good) boxes underneath. The beds are strong and all. I'm just astonished I didn't lose a finger, going at it as I did with zero safety knowledge...talk about pushing your luck!
I'm coming at this learning from what might seem an odd angle - I make jewelry. I'm not yet ready for "advanced techniques" in that - in other words anything that requires fire! - but I am already long past the point where I am in desperate need of storage, storage, and more storage. I have cobbled together various solutions from this and that. But cardboard boxes and plastic parts bins will only go so far for me: I also have to store a huge number of "one off" type parts and pieces - focals that are partially assembled, large or unusual beads, and so forth. Right now all I *can* do is jumble them all together in the biggest parts bin I have, and the separators in it just aren't enough to really organize any of it.
My first thought was "hey, surely something already exists that I can purchase to deal with this mess." There is: old printer's cabinets, once used to hold the metal bits for typesetting, are wide and and long, but not deep, and have bunches of teeny compartments. And they cost an arm and a leg!!!
So here I am.
Thanks a lot for all your clear instructional videosm Steve. It helps me A LOT! Very, fricking, awesome.
This channel warms my heart