I would suggest that you apply some high pressure grease to the pins, bushings and the flange surfaces. Otherwise, you'll be right back here again in a year or less if used very much. On the slobber gobbed hinge, that's welded up poorly, that's repairable. I've had to do as bad or worse on S10's where the pin has practically broke out of the hinge. And the hinges are welded to the body. Using an aluminum or copper backing plate, use a MIG welder to slowly build up the hole back to just past nominal size. Then take a carbide "Christmas tree" bit in a die grinder or drill. Bring the hole back to close to nominal size. The inside of the top holes on the top hinges rarely wear so you can use that as your base circle reference. On the bottom hinges, use the outer portion of the holes as reference. Drill holes for the appropriate pin or bushing. To test drill bit size, drill a piece of wood or thin metal. Make sure and use a good quality bit as the weld is very hard and will dull cheap bits almost instantly. A slow drill speed and lubrication is necessary. A C-clamp and oversized washers work great for installing the bushing. That or or a long bolt. The bronze bushings are very fragile and cannot take any abuse by hammering. Two door cars are very hard on them and they rarely last but a year or two before having to replace them again because of the very small surface area in contact with the hinge. For a longer lasting, more permanent fix, I like to use a full length bolt or rod drilled to the pin diameter on the inner hinge portion. Tack weld it in 2-3 places on both ends. Lube the pin and new steel bushing up really good before installing. The hugely increased surface area spreads the load over a larger area greatly reducing wear. It also keeps grit from contaminating the hinge area. Making a virtually lasting lifetime fix.
I didn't measure the original pin and the new pin, so I don't know, but they did seem close in diameter. The holes can be welded and re-drilled to fit new pins if you didn't want to use the bushings.
Great job my 81 d150 didn't have bushing either just got it off just to figure this all out .thank you for showing how it's done😉
@@danielworden4695 I’m glad it helped you.
Great Thanks for video!!
My pleasure!
I would suggest that you apply some high pressure grease to the pins, bushings and the flange surfaces. Otherwise, you'll be right back here again in a year or less if used very much.
On the slobber gobbed hinge, that's welded up poorly, that's repairable. I've had to do as bad or worse on S10's where the pin has practically broke out of the hinge. And the hinges are welded to the body.
Using an aluminum or copper backing plate, use a MIG welder to slowly build up the hole back to just past nominal size. Then take a carbide "Christmas tree" bit in a die grinder or drill. Bring the hole back to close to nominal size. The inside of the top holes on the top hinges rarely wear so you can use that as your base circle reference. On the bottom hinges, use the outer portion of the holes as reference. Drill holes for the appropriate pin or bushing. To test drill bit size, drill a piece of wood or thin metal. Make sure and use a good quality bit as the weld is very hard and will dull cheap bits almost instantly. A slow drill speed and lubrication is necessary.
A C-clamp and oversized washers work great for installing the bushing. That or or a long bolt. The bronze bushings are very fragile and cannot take any abuse by hammering. Two door cars are very hard on them and they rarely last but a year or two before having to replace them again because of the very small surface area in contact with the hinge. For a longer lasting, more permanent fix, I like to use a full length bolt or rod drilled to the pin diameter on the inner hinge portion. Tack weld it in 2-3 places on both ends. Lube the pin and new steel bushing up really good before installing. The hugely increased surface area spreads the load over a larger area greatly reducing wear. It also keeps grit from contaminating the hinge area. Making a virtually lasting lifetime fix.
So is the new pin larger in diameter than the original one to take up any slop in the bracket that doesn't get brass bushings?
I didn't measure the original pin and the new pin, so I don't know, but they did seem close in diameter. The holes can be welded and re-drilled to fit new pins if you didn't want to use the bushings.