@@ktecgarage yup. son called.. "Dad! there's steam coming from the hood!" Ended up replacing the upper heater hose because of oil damage to it, which caused it to rupture. Now replacing the distributor seal as the oil leak is from inside the distributor and leaks onto the hose. At first I thought it was the O-RING replaced that twice before I saw this vid.
Doman makes a kit that come 3 different seals 2 different styles for the shaft and the O-ring. I guess their is 2 different style shaft seals. I picked the one that looked most similar to what came out of the car and saved the other. Thanks for video.
nice job..this is an essential job because if you neglect the oil leak the oil drip will eventually make the heater core hose that is on the outlet which is almost directly underneath the distributor... swell and it will leak out fluid or even burst and then you will have to replace that too... if you are lucky enough to catch it before you run so low on antifreeze that you blow the head gasket and possibly warp the head....
1.) Make sure you reinstall the fork the same orientation as when you removed it !!! So as I learned the hard way; those forks or whatever they’re called are NOT symmetrical. They appear to be the same size but they are indeed different !! My car wouldn’t start either and I thought I could simply pull the distributor back out and turn the rotor 180°, but to my chagrin the distributor wouldn’t go back in. So I had to push out the pin again and rotate the FoRK 180°, (only the fork), push the pin back in, reinstall the distributor, and VioLá😃, it started right up !! Also; 2.) Save a lot of time and hassle pulling out and pushing the pin in with a Harbor Freight, Heavy duty chain breaker for $15. 3.) There’s no need to remove al the electrical stuff inside the distributor. There’s only 2 screws which are easily accessible that hold the shaft in place. 4.) You’ll probably need to buy an entirely new distributor CaP in order to get a new gasket.
Thanks for an excellent video. Saved me a bunch of money over buying a new distributor. By the way, my 2000 Accord purchased Jan 1 2000 does indeed have a distributor that rotates to set the timing. Realized this when pulling it out from the engine. Luckily, everything was so nasty I could see where the washers were and was able to rotate it back to where it was, then mark it. Whew!!
@@ktecgarage Ok so nice vid, I changed all of my distributor seals aswell, and the same thing with me, not too long afterwards came back and checked and underneath the body of the distributor was wet right near the front cap, removing the pin is the only pain in the butt part of this procedure, I may just have to do all of this again, did this rectify the problem ?
Mine never leaked again. If the oil is not in the distributor cap, then make sure you didn't roll the one that goes into the head. The Vtec solenoids get to leaking too and that is on the back of the head on the passenger side. Could be that. Or it could be the valve cover. Good luck
I just ordered a seal from the amazons 12x22x5 which I think, after some research, is the actual size of the hitachi shaft for the distributor. It's temp rating is from -40F to 245F which is sufficient for a gas engine. says it engineered for hydrocarbon fluids, which covers "OIL" :)
@@ktecgarage Did it.. All is good.. I can confirm that the seal size is exact. 12x22x5. Thanks for the video! it help immensely. As for the pin, Harbor Freight's chain breaker is an exact fit to push the pin out easily. I also used it to push the pin back in.
THE PART THAT PLUGS INTO THE CAM IS ASYMMETRICAL! These instructions make it sound like there's only one way to fit this into the cam, this is true but it will go in and just break the teeth off ruining the distributor (ask how I know). I took a picture of the end of the cam to make certain that the wide side was on the correct side to match up with the metal teeth.
I believe I made it clear that it was possible to get it installed backwards. I'm sorry to hear you had an issue. Mistakes are part of the DIY experience.
I have pics from 2020 of me changing the inner seal, however I have an inkling that it's leaking again. Any idea how long these seals last? Looks like I'm going to have to go back to autozone to claim warranty on the kit.
Hey did the oil leak cause any hiccups or slight misfires at idle? I’m dealing with same oil leak inside the cap and wondering if it’s related to random idle hiccups and I mean random, not predictable. Curious if you’ve experienced same. Thanks
Just replaced both seals but now it doesnt get installed, not seating like yours, the roti shaft is aligning as it clicks when distributor is move clockwise and anticlockwise but doesn't fully seat. Stops 0.5 inches before going flush to the engine.
@ktecgarage That's what I tried, it seated well but didn't start and made a bang sound as perhaps due to un- burnt fuel. So I shifted 180 deg but now it doesnt fit/seat. Will try again in the morning.
@ExcelTimeSavers Turn the engine to top dead center using the marks on the crank balancer. Reinstall the distributor with the rotor pointed at the 11 o'clock position. This will ensure it's in the proper position. If it goes partially in, wiggle the rotor while pushing. If you got it in 180 out, it may have damaged the distributor. Inspect the part that fits into the cam and the end of the cam for any damage. Good luck.
@@ktecgarage it went in well when 180 deg off, but kept 0.5 inch out when I placed it 180 the other way, I tightened the screws slowly and it got seated. Started and and it went perfectly fine. Thanks for your continued guidance. Yes, do mention the dangers of 280 deg off in your future videos. That will help.
So as I learned the hard way; those forks or whatever they’re called are NOT symmetrical. They appear to be the same size but they are indeed different !! My car wouldn’t start either and I thought I could simply pull the distributor back out and turn the rotor 180°, but to my chagrin the distributor wouldn’t go back in. So I had to push out the pin again and rotate the FoRK 180°, (only the fork), push the pin back in, reinstall the distributor, and VioLá😃, it started right up !!
The video is ok I sure wish he would of video how he pulled the pin out I tried banging it out like he said but it didn't come out..does anyone know how to get that stubborn pin out..
do you recall if it also solved your sluggish starting? I have it too, plus a random misfire, i can't find anything wrong. The engine in completely new mechanically but I reused the electronics, no CEL.@@ktecgarage
Did that leak effect the tachometer/ speedometer? My 2000 2.3L Accord is leaking from the distributor and at the same time my tach and speedometer stopped working. Any thoughts?
Hi Kec, I just changed out the oil seal in my distributor. As you know, the pin doesn't fit back in exactly like it was prior to removing. Did you experience any issues with this?
It was tough to drive it back in. If I did it again, I would put the pin in the freezer for an hour and then heat the shaft around the pin hole with a butane or map gas torch for a few minutes and then push the cold pin back in. That method works like a charm with press in wrist pins and pistons. Seems like it would work for this too. Good luck!
The distributor does clock you can see from one of the 2 12s to mount it one is an oval for distributor adjustment and one of the electric connections you unscrwed inside is the cam position sensor I believe which sits right next to that shaft which is what relays the firing signal to the ignition coil which could advance or retard timing maybe a few degrees? I'm not sure any thoughts?
Hi and thanks for commenting. My car idles at 7 degrees spark advance. Without testing it, I would bet that the computer would compensate for any small clocking and stay idling at 7. Even though the bolt holes for this distributor are oval, it really doesn't move much once u get the bolts started.
@@ktecgarage ok great info! I was worried about doing this job because I thought I'd make my idle rough and risk valve contact at high rpm if I didn't retime and clock the distributor. You've had no issues since rebuilding the sealed distributor? BTW I'm ordering that part no you mentioned as I couldn't find it at my dealership either and just knew that oil was coming from the shaft. Also any tricks for getting pin out of the distributor cam rotor?
Just to ease your mind, I have pulled that distributor and reinstalled in the same manner demonstrated several times with no issues. You don't have to mark it or use a timing light. The pin will probably be your hardest part. I used a drill bit that was a bit smaller than the pin and a 3lb sledge. I had to beat the snot out of mine. A nail or screw would work too. Good luck!
I have a 98 honda civic ex. I just replaced my distributor O ring 2yrs ago and no more oil leak. Now I see a little oil inside my distributor cap on the edges of cap. Can this also cause my idle to be very low under 1000rpm likes it's going to die my idle when stopped at red light. This happens when it get real hot engine. Could this cause my idle that's very low about to die out?
When I pulled the engine about a year before this video, the car had a blown head gasket, a fish bite miss and several oil leaks. I missed this seal when I rebuilt it.
@@ktecgarage Thanks for the reply. I am after recent D15Z6 engine hesitation when the gas pedal is suddenly pressed or depressed. I am currently revising the ignition system - new HV cables, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor. So far found leakage from the o-ring but it's dry inside the distributor assy, so probably the seal is still doing its job. Anyways, I took seal and o-ring kit and might replace both to avoid seal leakage in near future. Any observation on the shaft's bearing shape? Still intact? Wondering if it's sensitive to wear or if it's kind of a relaxed component.
Fucking hate when ppl skip the hardest step. “Yeah this was a pain in the ass so I went ahead and skipped it and did it off camera just drive it out with a drill bit” wdym? Drill it out or hammer it out?
great video except for that part. now i’m not sure how to safely get the pin out myself. can i hammer it out or how exactly do you drill it out? i would love some advice
@ktecgarage thank you for the quick reply! But i dont think i asked (or dont exactly know how to) the right question. what i meant was, would the engine oil pour out if i took the distributor off, or does it trickle like in the video regardless of whether or not I've drained the oil out via the drain plug under the car?
Mine is leaking all over the place I took my valve cover off and it's rotten but there is oil all over the valves is it from just the gasket or should I go underneath the valves and replace the little rings under there as well when I replace the valve cover gasket 1998 lx please go view video if I made this sound a bit confusing it's been oil all over the place but the car did make it to andnfrom west va from Alabama also my coolant is a dark green brown color I was told he'd gasket where the heck is that is that under the valves cover idk yall it's my 1st time ever taking apart this engine my spark plug wires bottoms are brown does that mean I'm going to just 1. Need to do the tune up or 2 tune up and valve cover gasket plus more please help honda family
Replace the valve cover gasket and the spark plug tube gaskets and see if that helps. There is supposed to be oil on your valves. The discolored coolant is probably just because it's old. Same for the spark plug wires. We have a saying here in the south: if it ain't broke, don't fix it. If it's running good and not using coolant, leave it alone. Good luck!
@@ktecgarage I'm in Alabama and from Alabama so yes and ok it's supposed to ok that's good I cleaned it up a Lil bit went underneath the car and it was sipping leaking coolant from under upon further review there's a wheel of some sort looks like the water pump from down here so ima do a UA-cam search see where my water is located and how to remove because it's rusted if you have a email I can send video to your email maybe it is because about a month ago it was a ton of coolant everywhere on the ground and I didn't kno where it came from checked hoses and everything no cracks or anything I replaced radiator myself put fresh coolant so it shouldn't be discolored but I'll Def get to searching seeing where and how to remove my water pump I took the housing where it was leaking or rather sipping from so that's my next video trying to figure out where the coolant coming from would the water pump cause it to leak slowly from underneath I also checked my spark plugs in my cylinders and there's no water or anything in there so I don't think it's my head gasket which is a whew moment
Ok. I'll watch it and get back to you. The water pump is hidden behind that plastic cover so you can't see it. But when they go bad they will leak coolant to that lower pulley. And it's a pretty big job to tackle if it needs replacing. I have a video up showing replacing one on a Civic and the procedure is very similar for your engine. Also, old radiator hoses will shed into your coolant and cause discoloration.
I've never done the J series one, so I'm afraid I don't have the answer for you. The online Honda parts websites usually have exploded views of the various pieces with the OEM part numbers. Good luck!
So as I learned the hard way; those forks or whatever they’re called are NOT symmetrical. They appear to be the same size but they are indeed different !! My car wouldn’t start either and I thought I could simply pull the distributor back out and turn the rotor 180°, but to my chagrin the distributor wouldn’t go back in. So I had to push out the pin again and rotate the fork 180°, put the pin back in, reinstall the distributor, and VioLá😃, it started right up !!
I did my valve cover gasket and outside O ring and cut off the swollen part of the heater hose and thought I had the worst luck the only leak after the job is dripping right back on the heater hose and it's already swollen again.
Silly question, but it happened to me: Did you plug your harness connector for the distributor back in? Other things, check that your spark plug wires are all in the right place as it relates to timing. Is the distributor backwards where it goes into the cam? Or, you wired something wrong inside when reassembling the coil and ignitor or disturbing them broke something. Pull a spark plug and check for spark. That's were I would start. Good luck. Sorry to hear you're having a problem.
This also causes damage to the hose underneath connected to thermostat. It swells up. Due to oil leaking on it.
Yep. And goes soft. Had to replace that too. Thanks for adding that info.
@@ktecgarage yup. son called.. "Dad! there's steam coming from the hood!" Ended up replacing the upper heater hose because of oil damage to it, which caused it to rupture. Now replacing the distributor seal as the oil leak is from inside the distributor and leaks onto the hose. At first I thought it was the O-RING replaced that twice before I saw this vid.
Replacing mine right now. Hose & dizzy seals
Face that one before
Good video. Having that problem for over a year now and didn't know it was that easy! Thanks
I'm glad to hear it helped you out! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Doman makes a kit that come 3 different seals 2 different styles for the shaft and the O-ring. I guess their is 2 different style shaft seals. I picked the one that looked most similar to what came out of the car and saved the other. Thanks for video.
Thank you for the information
I believe one is for TEC distributor and another is for HITACHI
@@runt0rcorrect.
nice job..this is an essential job because if you neglect the oil leak the oil drip will eventually make the heater core hose that is on the outlet which is almost directly underneath the distributor... swell and it will leak out fluid or even burst and then you will have to replace that too... if you are lucky enough to catch it before you run so low on antifreeze that you blow the head gasket and possibly warp the head....
I had to replace that hose as well. The oil leak ruined it. Thanks for adding that info.
1.) Make sure you reinstall the fork the same orientation as when you removed it !!!
So as I learned the hard way; those forks or whatever they’re called are NOT symmetrical. They appear to be the same size but they are indeed different !! My car wouldn’t start either and I thought I could simply pull the distributor back out and turn the rotor 180°, but to my chagrin the distributor wouldn’t go back in. So I had to push out the pin again and rotate the FoRK 180°, (only the fork), push the pin back in, reinstall the distributor, and VioLá😃, it started right up !!
Also; 2.) Save a lot of time and hassle pulling out and pushing the pin in with a Harbor Freight, Heavy duty chain breaker for $15.
3.) There’s no need to remove al the electrical stuff inside the distributor. There’s only 2 screws which are easily accessible that hold the shaft in place.
4.) You’ll probably need to buy an entirely new distributor CaP in order to get a new gasket.
great video. a must watch for accord owners
Thank you!
Thanks for an excellent video. Saved me a bunch of money over buying a new distributor. By the way, my 2000 Accord purchased Jan 1 2000 does indeed have a distributor that rotates to set the timing. Realized this when pulling it out from the engine. Luckily, everything was so nasty I could see where the washers were and was able to rotate it back to where it was, then mark it. Whew!!
Glad to hear the video helped out!
@@ktecgarage Ok so nice vid, I changed all of my distributor seals aswell, and the same thing with me, not too long afterwards came back and checked and underneath the body of the distributor was wet right near the front cap, removing the pin is the only pain in the butt part of this procedure, I may just have to do all of this again, did this rectify the problem ?
Mine never leaked again. If the oil is not in the distributor cap, then make sure you didn't roll the one that goes into the head. The Vtec solenoids get to leaking too and that is on the back of the head on the passenger side. Could be that. Or it could be the valve cover. Good luck
I was about to buy a new distributor and realized I can save lots of money just by buying the seals 🙏🏻
I just ordered a seal from the amazons 12x22x5 which I think, after some research, is the actual size of the hitachi shaft for the distributor. It's temp rating is from -40F to 245F which is sufficient for a gas engine. says it engineered for hydrocarbon fluids, which covers "OIL" :)
Good luck!
@@ktecgarage Did it.. All is good.. I can confirm that the seal size is exact. 12x22x5. Thanks for the video! it help immensely.
As for the pin, Harbor Freight's chain breaker is an exact fit to push the pin out easily. I also used it to push the pin back in.
@@s.t.5003Hey there, do you mean the PITTSBURGH MOTORCYCLE Chain Breaker to push out the pin?
@@s.t.5003I've been wanting to start this job but have been very hesitant as pushing out the pin seems to be the riskiest part for me.
Great detail. You sir are a natural born teacher! So Dealer just replaces the Distributor and probably Rotor?
Most likely. Thanks for taking a moment to comment!
wish I'd seen this one two distributors ago
I feel your pain
Excellent tutorial !!
Thanks
Glad it was helpful. Thanks!
Is it normal for the electrical connector to the dist to be tight? There doesn't appear to be much slack on mines.
I have the part's but I just can't get that pin out .
You really need a good vice for that. Maybe take it to a garage and get them to punch it out for you.
Use a motorcycle chain splitter, you can get one in HARBOR FREIGHT.
Coolant hose under neath should be replaced. Bubbling up from oil leak!!! And the distributor housing gasket as well.
Yep. Keep watching my other videos! It gets replaced.
Thanks for commenting.
THE PART THAT PLUGS INTO THE CAM IS ASYMMETRICAL! These instructions make it sound like there's only one way to fit this into the cam, this is true but it will go in and just break the teeth off ruining the distributor (ask how I know). I took a picture of the end of the cam to make certain that the wide side was on the correct side to match up with the metal teeth.
I believe I made it clear that it was possible to get it installed backwards. I'm sorry to hear you had an issue. Mistakes are part of the DIY experience.
Thanks for the heads up 🤠🎉🎉
I have pics from 2020 of me changing the inner seal, however I have an inkling that it's leaking again. Any idea how long these seals last? Looks like I'm going to have to go back to autozone to claim warranty on the kit.
you just saved me $150. Thanks
Are you a latex salesman?
Glad the video helped you out!
Marine Biologist
Architect?
Great video, Thank you.
Glad to hear it helped you out!
Thanks for the video. Driving that pin out was a pain in the ass, don't like that design much.
Hey did the oil leak cause any hiccups or slight misfires at idle? I’m dealing with same oil leak inside the cap and wondering if it’s related to random idle hiccups and I mean random, not predictable. Curious if you’ve experienced same. Thanks
I did not notice any performance problems while it was leaking.
Hey, thanks for the video. Is that high temp grease good to use with rubber?
I've never had an issue with that particular brand.
Just replaced both seals but now it doesnt get installed, not seating like yours, the roti shaft is aligning as it clicks when distributor is move clockwise and anticlockwise but doesn't fully seat. Stops 0.5 inches before going flush to the engine.
Turn the rotor 180 degrees and try again.
@ktecgarage That's what I tried, it seated well but didn't start and made a bang sound as perhaps due to un- burnt fuel. So I shifted 180 deg but now it doesnt fit/seat. Will try again in the morning.
@ExcelTimeSavers Turn the engine to top dead center using the marks on the crank balancer. Reinstall the distributor with the rotor pointed at the 11 o'clock position. This will ensure it's in the proper position. If it goes partially in, wiggle the rotor while pushing. If you got it in 180 out, it may have damaged the distributor. Inspect the part that fits into the cam and the end of the cam for any damage.
Good luck.
@@ktecgarage it went in well when 180 deg off, but kept 0.5 inch out when I placed it 180 the other way, I tightened the screws slowly and it got seated. Started and and it went perfectly fine. Thanks for your continued guidance. Yes, do mention the dangers of 280 deg off in your future videos. That will help.
So as I learned the hard way; those forks or whatever they’re called are NOT symmetrical. They appear to be the same size but they are indeed different !! My car wouldn’t start either and I thought I could simply pull the distributor back out and turn the rotor 180°, but to my chagrin the distributor wouldn’t go back in. So I had to push out the pin again and rotate the FoRK 180°, (only the fork), push the pin back in, reinstall the distributor, and VioLá😃, it started right up !!
Excellent
How know if the coil or innighteris bad
If the pin won't be remove. I suggest youtu friend to buy a cheaper distributor case, and put the original parts into it carefully.
Great idea!
The video is ok I sure wish he would of video how he pulled the pin out I tried banging it out like he said but it didn't come out..does anyone know how to get that stubborn pin out..
Sorry, man. I tried.
How many miles do you have on your Honda Accord now?
I sold it last year with about 326k on it. Was running perfect.
do you recall if it also solved your sluggish starting? I have it too, plus a random misfire, i can't find anything wrong. The engine in completely new mechanically but I reused the electronics, no CEL.@@ktecgarage
So what would it be if you change the distributor to a new one and there is still a leak? Could the input shaft be slightly longer than oem?
Did the new one have a new o ring on the input shaft? Could be a crack in the head.
thanks for a very good video, just one question: where did you get the oil seal? i need one!!!
Ebay. Just put that part number in your search. Honda doesn't sell it. They consider it to be non serviceable.
Did that leak effect the tachometer/ speedometer? My 2000 2.3L Accord is leaking from the distributor and at the same time my tach and speedometer stopped working. Any thoughts?
The speed sensor on the transmission is under that general area. Does the odometer still work?
Replaced the shaft O-ring distributor is still leaking? Must be that inner seal!
If there is oil inside the cap then probably so.
Simple video narrated perfectly
Thank you for your comment! Hoped the video helped you out.
Would the leak cause the radiator pipe to get saturated with oil and having oil in the coolant reservoir?
I don't think oil would get into the coolant system. It will eventually ruin the hose.
@@ktecgarage thanks, I’ll change the rings.
Hi Kec, I just changed out the oil seal in my distributor. As you know, the pin doesn't fit back in exactly like it was prior to removing. Did you experience any issues with this?
It was tough to drive it back in. If I did it again, I would put the pin in the freezer for an hour and then heat the shaft around the pin hole with a butane or map gas torch for a few minutes and then push the cold pin back in. That method works like a charm with press in wrist pins and pistons. Seems like it would work for this too.
Good luck!
My is liking oil top of the starter
The distributor does clock you can see from one of the 2 12s to mount it one is an oval for distributor adjustment and one of the electric connections you unscrwed inside is the cam position sensor I believe which sits right next to that shaft which is what relays the firing signal to the ignition coil which could advance or retard timing maybe a few degrees? I'm not sure any thoughts?
Also Love your videos man. Using a few for guidance on my g23 build
Hi and thanks for commenting.
My car idles at 7 degrees spark advance. Without testing it, I would bet that the computer would compensate for any small clocking and stay idling at 7. Even though the bolt holes for this distributor are oval, it really doesn't move much once u get the bolts started.
@@ktecgarage ok great info! I was worried about doing this job because I thought I'd make my idle rough and risk valve contact at high rpm if I didn't retime and clock the distributor. You've had no issues since rebuilding the sealed distributor? BTW I'm ordering that part no you mentioned as I couldn't find it at my dealership either and just knew that oil was coming from the shaft. Also any tricks for getting pin out of the distributor cam rotor?
Just to ease your mind, I have pulled that distributor and reinstalled in the same manner demonstrated several times with no issues. You don't have to mark it or use a timing light.
The pin will probably be your hardest part. I used a drill bit that was a bit smaller than the pin and a 3lb sledge. I had to beat the snot out of mine. A nail or screw would work too. Good luck!
I have a 2000 EX. Does anyone have part numbers for the parts used in the repair?
The part number is shown at the 11:00 mark in the video.
I have a 98 honda civic ex. I just replaced my distributor O ring 2yrs ago and no more oil leak. Now I see a little oil inside my distributor cap on the edges of cap. Can this also cause my idle to be very low under 1000rpm likes it's going to die my idle when stopped at red light. This happens when it get real hot engine. Could this cause my idle that's very low about to die out?
Maybe. I'd clean the throttle body first before I went chasing after something else.
Where to get kits for rebuilding Ds.cap.?
Hello Eric. Do you know the code number for the brush set 22800-4891 DDLD9 Denso starter?
Were there any ignition or other engine issues besides oil leaking before you initiated the teardown?
When I pulled the engine about a year before this video, the car had a blown head gasket, a fish bite miss and several oil leaks. I missed this seal when I rebuilt it.
@@ktecgarage Thanks for the reply. I am after recent D15Z6 engine hesitation when the gas pedal is suddenly pressed or depressed. I am currently revising the ignition system - new HV cables, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor. So far found leakage from the o-ring but it's dry inside the distributor assy, so probably the seal is still doing its job. Anyways, I took seal and o-ring kit and might replace both to avoid seal leakage in near future. Any observation on the shaft's bearing shape? Still intact? Wondering if it's sensitive to wear or if it's kind of a relaxed component.
Thank you so much!!!
Gald it was helpful!
Well I got seal finally and as I am driving pin back into shaft I broke a piece off the "washer".... ugh!!!
Am I gonna have to buy a distributor?
Went ahead and installed and is now riding rough and loud.....
Not all the seals are replaceable, the seal of the hitachi distributor on my 97 odyssey with f22b engine cannot be replaced!
Fucking hate when ppl skip the hardest step. “Yeah this was a pain in the ass so I went ahead and skipped it and did it off camera just drive it out with a drill bit” wdym? Drill it out or hammer it out?
If I was able to film it, I would have. Thank you for your understanding.
great video except for that part. now i’m not sure how to safely get the pin out myself. can i hammer it out or how exactly do you drill it out? i would love some advice
@Jamistr you don't drill it out. I used a drill bit to hammer the pin out. The bit needs to fit into the hole after the pin moves.
Thank you very good video and good explained.
Glad to know that it helped you out. Thanks for watching and commenting!
THANK YOU BRO
Glad to hear you enjoyed the video!
Im trying to figure out what the part with the copper wire on it is called that is connected to the ignition mod in the the distributor any clues?
I believe you are referring to the igniter.
Yeah i figured as much and did some looking for one but im gonna have to change the whole distributor on my 01 honda
The junkyard is your friend. Good luck!
Would you need to drain the oil before you remove the distributor?
Nope. It wouldn't keep oil from leaking there. It's the way the head is designed.
@ktecgarage thank you for the quick reply! But i dont think i asked (or dont exactly know how to) the right question. what i meant was, would the engine oil pour out if i took the distributor off, or does it trickle like in the video regardless of whether or not I've drained the oil out via the drain plug under the car?
@francovera5876 it would trickle out even if you drained the oil. The cylinder head doesn't drain when you drain the oil pan.
@ktecgarage ok thanks!
Is this a 1999 honda civic? So I dont need to worry about getting the timing right?
It's an Accord, but you still don't need to worry about timing the distributor on that model year.
@@ktecgarage Thanks for the reply! Appreciate it
Great video
Thank you
This car is not going to last long
what is the pat number of that seal
Without rewatching, I'm pretty sure the Honda part number is shown in the video.
For those in the future it's at 10:51
Excellent tutorial. Thanks buddy! Subbed.
Mine is leaking all over the place I took my valve cover off and it's rotten but there is oil all over the valves is it from just the gasket or should I go underneath the valves and replace the little rings under there as well when I replace the valve cover gasket 1998 lx please go view video if I made this sound a bit confusing it's been oil all over the place but the car did make it to andnfrom west va from Alabama also my coolant is a dark green brown color I was told he'd gasket where the heck is that is that under the valves cover idk yall it's my 1st time ever taking apart this engine my spark plug wires bottoms are brown does that mean I'm going to just 1. Need to do the tune up or 2 tune up and valve cover gasket plus more please help honda family
Replace the valve cover gasket and the spark plug tube gaskets and see if that helps.
There is supposed to be oil on your valves. The discolored coolant is probably just because it's old. Same for the spark plug wires.
We have a saying here in the south: if it ain't broke, don't fix it. If it's running good and not using coolant, leave it alone.
Good luck!
@@ktecgarage I'm in Alabama and from Alabama so yes and ok it's supposed to ok that's good I cleaned it up a Lil bit went underneath the car and it was sipping leaking coolant from under upon further review there's a wheel of some sort looks like the water pump from down here so ima do a UA-cam search see where my water is located and how to remove because it's rusted if you have a email I can send video to your email maybe it is because about a month ago it was a ton of coolant everywhere on the ground and I didn't kno where it came from checked hoses and everything no cracks or anything I replaced radiator myself put fresh coolant so it shouldn't be discolored but I'll Def get to searching seeing where and how to remove my water pump I took the housing where it was leaking or rather sipping from so that's my next video trying to figure out where the coolant coming from would the water pump cause it to leak slowly from underneath I also checked my spark plugs in my cylinders and there's no water or anything in there so I don't think it's my head gasket which is a whew moment
@@ktecgarage if you don't mind brother please go watch my latest video should be yesterdays video
Ok. I'll watch it and get back to you. The water pump is hidden behind that plastic cover so you can't see it. But when they go bad they will leak coolant to that lower pulley. And it's a pretty big job to tackle if it needs replacing. I have a video up showing replacing one on a Civic and the procedure is very similar for your engine.
Also, old radiator hoses will shed into your coolant and cause discoloration.
I replied with video links on your channel. Keep up the good vibes!
: OUTSTANDING info instructional video. 🐢 👍 😀
Glad you found the video helpful. Thank you for taking a moment to comment.
Yo I need help with an f22b1 no knock sensor hole to put in knock sensor, I’m stuck in limp mode
It's right above the oil filter. Pull the filter and it will be easier to see. No hole might mean someone broke it off.
Year and engine for this repair?
2000 Accord F23
Is the same part number for a v6 98 honda accord? I can't found it
I've never done the J series one, so I'm afraid I don't have the answer for you. The online Honda parts websites usually have exploded views of the various pieces with the OEM part numbers. Good luck!
Thank you for the video
And thank you for letting me know it helped you out. Good luck with yours!
No idea what I did wrong but now the car won’t start. 😢
Make sure it's plugged back in. I've forgotten that. If it is 180 degrees backwards, it won't run either.
@ thank you
So as I learned the hard way; those forks or whatever they’re called are NOT symmetrical. They appear to be the same size but they are indeed different !! My car wouldn’t start either and I thought I could simply pull the distributor back out and turn the rotor 180°, but to my chagrin the distributor wouldn’t go back in. So I had to push out the pin again and rotate the fork 180°, put the pin back in, reinstall the distributor, and VioLá😃, it started right up !!
Very helpful thank you so much
Very glad to hear the video was helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you
Great video... I'm gonna have a Professional perform this task.. Thank you..
Glad the video shed some light on your problem. Thanks for commenting!
I did my valve cover gasket and outside O ring and cut off the swollen part of the heater hose and thought I had the worst luck the only leak after the job is dripping right back on the heater hose and it's already swollen again.
My car doesn’t start now :( Any idea what could be wrong?
Silly question, but it happened to me: Did you plug your harness connector for the distributor back in?
Other things, check that your spark plug wires are all in the right place as it relates to timing. Is the distributor backwards where it goes into the cam? Or, you wired something wrong inside when reassembling the coil and ignitor or disturbing them broke something.
Pull a spark plug and check for spark. That's were I would start.
Good luck. Sorry to hear you're having a problem.
Part number ?
It's in the video
Great now i know what do
😂 Tragedy happened on my car, I forgot to remove the ICM and shock the pin. My car won’t start !!! Because I didn't fellow the steps😢
Once again ktec saves the day. Cb7
Thank you!
Why you skip the pin insertion part.. that's tricky to do. I guess I'll use a hammer.
Couldn't film it and hammer it in. Too much fumbling around!
@@ktecgarage now I'm going to be stuck at this point. It really helps when I see a professional do it. Now I'm just confused
No hammer that was a joke.may be a punch or a vise grip to.push it in.
I'm getting a head ache. Damn
@@ktecgarage does itmatter which direction you hammer it? Also does it have to be lined up with the groves?
I don't think the direction matters. Not sure what you mean by lining up grooves.
Would be better but a new one instead 😊
Cool video
Cooler accent
Thank you! Southern boy 💯
Can t you just replace the distributor?
Sure
If you don't have the time and want to spend much, much more. Yes.