This the Finest Technical instruction video for Honda distributor repair. Very Professional and highly Informative with outstanding detail. You are an excellent technical instructor. Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge.
I finally got everything working and started my engine. its been about 4 days and no oil leaks yet so mission accomplished. I wanna thank you for this video, it has saved me lots of money! thank you!
My neighbor has a D16Z6 engine in a 95 Civic. Your video was a perfect match in resolving his leaking oil problem. Less than $15.00 for the repair and no more drips. You made the whole repair process so simple with your great video. Thank you so much for your help.
I cannot thank you enough for this video -- my distributor continued to leak oil into the cap after the dealer allegedly fixed it. Sure enough, inner O ring. $12 and two hours later, I have this squared away. Wouldn't have tried it were it not for this video! Indispensable resource!
Excellent video! I have that exact year & model Honda and the exact oil from the distributor. I was quoted $425 to repair it and now I know how to fix it. Thank you for that clearly explained video with clear video & pictures. Thanks man!
Just did this repair on my 1997 accord se. Thank you so much for this video. You made it easy for me. One of the best instructional videos I have ever seen. Thanks
thank u, After watching this great video I repaired a 2000 Honda Accord. I also replaced the distributor cap gasket which was oil damaged. Your warning on oil damaged heater hose was excellent preventive maintenance. It helped me prepare by buying 2ft of 5/8in interior-diameter heater hose for $4. The formed hose cost $17 and an unnecessary loop in it.
Thanks for the tutorial. I went into a local repair shop to have a sensor replaced which should have cost me a couple hundred dollars. They called me and told me that my distributor seal, inner, was leaking and was a real fire danger. They wanted to charge me $550 for a new distributor, I talked them down a hundred and a half or so, and I guess I still got screwed. The owner of this repair shop has his own tv show locally and is always talking about how folks get cheated at repair shops; I guess he's an expert because he is so good at cheating his own customers.
If it was an OE Honda distributor they are around 330 from the dealer. If it was a cheaper aftermarket from $90-$130 (which I wouldn't recommend) that price is way too high. The aftermarket distributors just don't seem to last as long. You're better off getting a used OE one if you can't afford new. Thanks for watching.
Awesome video, I just followed it successfully! One note: the screws are easily stripped by PH2 phillips drivers. My brother realized they're Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) #1 and #2 screws. JIS screws can (usually) be identified by a single raised dot, next to the screw slot. I stripped out my rotor screw and to remove it had to break the dust cover to hacksaw a flathead into it. Next time I'll get some JIS drivers and save myself a $4 part delivered to my local dealership. Regardless, I really appreciate this clear and easy guide!
I found out about them a year ago many people understandably don't even know they exist. Unfortunately the dot doesn't seem to be a standard I have found JIS fasteners without it. But my rule of thumb is if it doesn't have a dot, the head isn't stripped, and all of my Phillips drivers fit like crap then it's a JIS. You can buy a 1/4" bit set from Vessel tools (Made In Japan) for under 4 bucks part number A-16621 (P1, P2, and P3) or A-16479 (PO, P1, and P2). If anyone is interested in a decent set. If you push hard enough you usually can get away with it but if the fastener is really tight you can round it out. JIS unlike Phillips doesn't cam out (slip) when too much torque is applied. The most common cause of stripped Phillips screws (cam out) was an intentional design feature to prevent over tightening if you can believe that.
Bushougoma - Thank you very much for taking the time to show and explain the entire process. Also thank you for posting the part #'s for the two different types of distributors. Thanks to you I was able to buy the correct seals and installed them.!!! NO MORE OIL LEAKS!!!
Thanks for posting these videos man, helping me keep the wife's 94 EX on the road. Comments are helpful too, in the video you just unsnap the wiring harnesses like its nothing, i wrestled with the wifes for over an hour then read the comment about metal bracket. Durrrr
BLESS YOU, BUSHOUGOMA!!! This was a fantastic help, it made the job trivial! I've had an external and internal distributor leak in my 1997 Honda Accord SE 2.2l for quite some time. I finally got sick of leaving oil spots wherever I park and started to tackle the leaks one by one...did the valve cover gasket twice, the second time seems to be working. But then noticed oil around the distributor and was like WTF? Very glad to have your video to help solve this. Also replaced heater hose...
My 94 Honda Accord's distributor is leaking (outer leak). It's nice to get a visual of what the mechanic is going to do to my Snow (her name) :) Thank so much for the detailed video!
I have a semi bad oil leak and oil all down the engine all under the Distributor. THANK YOU so much for this video, After watching this Video i ordered every new part you did.
Great video and information. FYI !!! It is possible to reinstall the distributor 180 degrees out. I figured this out after an hour of troubleshooting. Took it off, turned the dist end 180 degrees and reattached. Fired right up.
I did the same thing, too! I came here to post a comment letting people know it can happen but you beat me. I don't feel quite so bad now, either! Haha.
Thank you for making this video. I have a 1993 Honda Civic Ex which should be very similar in regards to the repair process. I noticed today that I have a little oil inside of the distributor cap and oil underneath the distributor leaking on to the transmission. I am now confident on replacing the o-rings.
I just got done replacing the internal seal and outer O-Ring. Also did the Valve Cover Gasket job, replaced spark plugs and wires as well. All thanks to the two videos of yours. And guess what... The Heater Hose underneath the distributor popped open while I was testing it after the repair. And now I'm ordering the hose and watching your other video to get ready for that one. Lol
Well at least it didn't pop while you were on the road. Try to look on the bright side :-). You may be able to avoid removing the distributor again if you can turn the ears of the spring clamp on the engine side of the hose with a screwdriver so you can access it from the side. The hose is sandwiched between the distributor body and the transmission bell housing.
I know I was glad to be just in my driveway, I think I'll just take the distributor back off, its quite simple now that I've done it a couple times. Again, I appreciate the videos they're very helpful!
Can't thank you enough for these videos - EXTREMELY well done and so incredibly helpful. With your video guidance, I've been inspired to try repairs I never would have had the confidence to do before. Thank you VERY much!!!
Excellent video, just used it to repair my Mom's Civic and like you pointed out the heater hose had a bubble in it from the oil leak, replaced it as well.
I successfully completed this job thanks to your video so a huge thank you goes to Bushougoma. A little tip for others that are going to try this...my rotor was yellow and I had a hell of a time getting it off. (Bushougoma takes his off with relative ease at 4:08). I took the whole distributor off first and had to take a rubber mallet to the rotor hiting it through a bit, then hit it back from the other side. Then it finally popped off. My internal seal was also completely shot and was a bit different from the one in this video - it had a flat piece of metal inside the seal itself rather than that metal circular spring looking thing. Make sure to use the correct size phillips head screwdriver for the last 4 screws as I stripped one of mine (seen in video at 14:32) and it made it a lot harder to get the seal off because the whole assembly was dangling with the wire, but nonetheless I was able to complete this job in about 4 or 5 hours after all was said and done (I also changed the lower coolant hose as mentioned at 7:42 ...I got that at Napa for about $20 (I needed to have it done that day, but this part can be found online for much cheaper). The seals cost me only a few dollars off of Rockauto.com. I did it yesterday and not a drop of oil is leaking after taking old Rhonda out for a spin...thanks again Bushougoma!
Job complete. Interior seal leaking and external seal hardened. Did notice shiny groove in shaft where it turned in internal seal, will keep eye on it to see if it leaks again. Thanks again for video.
Thanx, major help putting my mind at ease for dist reinstall. Figured it was a one way only key, so if you're just pulling it to get to other work you don't really even need to pull the cap if you're pressed for time.
Excellent hands on video and very informative. I noticed while changing the oil in my 94 Accord that it’s distributor is starting to seep. And thanks for the heads up on the heater hose info. I need to watch that video as well. Take care!
I am so glad I found your channel and a few others working on this gen accord. It's running like new again thanks to many of your videos! I just had this problem recently and you even have a full video covering that inner leak! Thanks so much!
Great video. I just bought a Hitachi distributor for an 89 accord from the local pull a part.. and the oil seal is very similar. Thanks for uploading it.
I made it fit but it bugged me so I found the Hitachi seal that has the same numbers (which are the seal size numbers) here. It fit perfectly but I couldn't have done this job without your great video! I found the seal online at Red's Auto Rehab.(they also carry the NOK seal.)
Great video with detail explanation! This vid is just what I needed and now feel confident to tackle this procedure. Thanks and great job. Keep them coming.
I checked wires and everything was plugged up correctly. I got the car running now. I believe that I initially didn't secure my wires and flooded the engine attempting to get it started. I rolled it down a hill to get it towed and started it just before getting it on the tow truck. I believe I flooded teh engine because I got a large black cloud once it got started. Running great now thanks.
I just did mine. Thanks for the tip about marking the interface between the distributor and the cam before taking that ring off. I probably would have put it on backward otherwise. I had OBD 1 so I had more stuff in the bottom of the distributor. But I didn't have to remove any of it because my seal was 19 years old and it came off with the shaft. I just had to remove it from the shaft and push the new on in. The old one was hard as a rock no wonder it wasn't sealing anything.
Thanks for the reply, I might just have to get a spare one and slowly do it right. The oil slowly made it way to the dizzy cap and wore out the rubber o-ring of the cap. I just want this thing fixed!
very good and detailed. I had the same issue of oil leaking after replacing the out o ring. Thru this video, am no able to fix that leak. very annoying... Thanks bro
Thank you Bushougoma. This was very helpful and I appreciate you posting this video with all this detail. It helped me understand exactly what was needed on my 95 Honda. Many Thanks.
i did, yes. i opened up the distributor again and did find oil inside of it. it is a tec distributor (it actually says "tec" right on it) so i went ahead and ordered the internal shaft seal you referenced. oddly, though there was no drain hole on the distributor cap. thanks for your help!
These instructions are thorough. But I want to add one caveat from my own experience with this repair. I replaced the shaft and housing seals on a 95 Odyssey.The engine started and ran fine afterward. But it still showed an internal oil leak, i.e. oil up the shaft and out the cap gasket. My shaft had a groove in it that must have been cut by the original oil seal. At this point I just wrapped a paper shop towel around the distributor to soak up drips. But if you find this groove, a machine shop might be able to smooth out the shaft enough to reuse it.
Great video 👍 Noticed oil has accumulated inside the distributor and the engine will crank, but will not start. I’ll troubleshoot it this weekend and also order the o-ring kit. Hope it’s a easy fix, camshaft turns while cranking meaning timing belt is still intact. Only has 30k miles since I replaced it both timing belts.
First - great video and thanks. I have a 96 Accord EX VTEC 4 Cyl that is leaking from the distributor took it to a shop to have them change the valve cover gasket, but it's also leaking from the distributor. It's hard for to tell from where exactly. Distributor has 4 wires, so apparently Hitachi. Going to take off the cap hoping to not see oil as you mention, I'm hoping it's external an leak because there seems to be a lot that can go wrong taking apart a distributor for a novice like me
A bit late to the party here, but it should be important for anyone attempting this to note: Most people tend to over-torque hardware, and this can be a disaster when you are torquing down bolts into ALUMINUM. First off, get yourself some anti-seize compound and lightly brush it onto the threads of any bolt going into aluminum, secondly, be diligent in looking up the proper torque values for the hardware you are tightening. having to ream and helicoil aluminum is no fun. Best regards, and great video.
If you have a Hitachi distributor on the 2.3 you have the pressed in pin. The Tec distributors have the ring with the floating pin. But I think the Tecs were only on the DX models. Thanks For Watching.
Making no promises to anyone but when I did this on a Civic I accidentally spun the distributor lugs. It seemed I had a 50/50 chance of getting it right but when I fiddled about I discovered my distributor lugs are slightly offset so if you're gentle there is only one orientation that will insert. It makes sense really.
thanks! i'll have to double check for that oil trail. i just did the valve cover gasket less than a year ago so unless i screwed that up it's coming from somewhere else.
It sounds like you can tell which seal is broken depending on where the oil is leaking from your distributor. From what I gathered, the distributor O-ring leaks into the cap, and the internal shaft oil seal will leak into the housing. As he said, might as well replace them both while it is off, but in a pinch, one might just replace the O-ring to pass smog ASAP. The internal shaft oil seal is much harder to get to.
when u said you dont want brake clean in your eyes i cringed..when i was 22-23 i was working on my crotch rocket..well the cylender was filled with brake clean after looking in the hole the guy bumped the engine over as i looked in..i had this bike running over 180lbs in each of 4 cyl well when it shot me in the eye i wanted to die..for 6 months i has metal and shi pulled out of my eye..almost went blind..ima safety eye glass wearing son of a gun..9 months in the bed..going blind makes you see so differntly..thankyou lord!!!!!
Great video. I am really curious, you say that OBD 2 hondas you can't adjust timing and not to worry about distributor alignment - but I'm seeing a lot of info on adjusting the timing for my 98 CRV. Any insight here?
He(the mechanic) try to scan the car with a device as i said and he showd me on the device, "the distirbutor replaced" thing and he said the problem is this we need to buy and change it sohe pulled out the distirbutor because to take this out and put the new one in place. Yes it is OBD II, i saw it as the video you posted.
This is a great video! Thanks for posting this and the other Accord videos! I am having this exact issue with my '94 Accord EX. I am sort of mechanically inclined but have never done a repair like this. How long (time wise) should this repair take for a first timer? Will this affect the timing once I replace it? Will replacing these 2 seals fix the loss of power that I am having?
Hi there just stumbled on video as my 92 Honda Accord is having a distributer internal leak and to fix it , it's going cost me heaps, now 1990 distributer would fit on a 1992? Thanks
I've understood most things bc he is a good teacher. The part in not understanding is the reference point for the two dimples. I saw they are both vertical, but I don't know the how to line them up, or what I'm lining them up with. So how do I ensure I don't reinstall it out 180 degrees? I'm not sure what I'm marking.
I pulled all the wires out (including the and reconnected them. The car actually turned over, but immediately cut off. I am thinking of replacing the distributor cap rotor. Wires look fine.
For those who plan to work on a hitachi ...there is no snap ring for the coupler pin. Its pressed in. This means a punch and a big ass hammer to get it out and to get it back in. Just a heads up.
Apparently I have the Hitachi and am having an impossible time trying to punch it out. Almost doesnt seem to budge, not sure what to do. Great video btw, my hose looked like it was ready to dissolve.
Yeah but that's a bit overkill for just turning the engine a bit. Just pull the connector on the fuel injector resistor pack (metal component with heat sink fins on it) you'll find it at the upper right corner of the engine compartment on the firewall. This will remove battery voltage from all four injectors to prevent the engine from starting. Then just quickly cycle the ignition switch to start until the screw lines up. Or just pull the distributor and remove the rotor later.
This the Finest Technical instruction video for Honda distributor repair. Very Professional and highly Informative with outstanding detail. You are an excellent technical instructor.
Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge.
Great coment sr. I agree with u
I finally got everything working and started my engine. its been about 4 days and no oil leaks yet so mission accomplished. I wanna thank you for this video, it has saved me lots of money! thank you!
My neighbor has a D16Z6 engine in a 95 Civic. Your video was a perfect match in resolving his leaking oil problem. Less than $15.00 for the repair and no more drips. You made the whole repair process so simple with your great video. Thank you so much for your help.
I cannot thank you enough for this video -- my distributor continued to leak oil into the cap after the dealer allegedly fixed it. Sure enough, inner O ring. $12 and two hours later, I have this squared away. Wouldn't have tried it were it not for this video! Indispensable resource!
Excellent video! I have that exact year & model Honda and the exact oil from the distributor. I was quoted $425 to repair it and now I know how to fix it. Thank you for that clearly explained video with clear video & pictures. Thanks man!
Just did this repair on my 1997 accord se. Thank you so much for this video. You made it easy for me. One of the best instructional videos I have ever seen. Thanks
thank u, After watching this great video I repaired a 2000 Honda Accord. I also replaced the distributor cap gasket which was oil damaged. Your warning on oil damaged heater hose was excellent preventive maintenance. It helped me prepare by buying 2ft of 5/8in interior-diameter heater hose for $4. The formed hose cost $17 and an unnecessary loop in it.
Thanks for the tutorial. I went into a local repair shop to have a sensor replaced which should have cost me a couple hundred dollars. They called me and told me that my distributor seal, inner, was leaking and was a real fire danger. They wanted to charge me $550 for a new distributor, I talked them down a hundred and a half or so, and I guess I still got screwed. The owner of this repair shop has his own tv show locally and is always talking about how folks get cheated at repair shops; I guess he's an expert because he is so good at cheating his own customers.
If it was an OE Honda distributor they are around 330 from the dealer. If it was a cheaper aftermarket from $90-$130 (which I wouldn't recommend) that price is way too high. The aftermarket distributors just don't seem to last as long. You're better off getting a used OE one if you can't afford new.
Thanks for watching.
Awesome video, I just followed it successfully!
One note: the screws are easily stripped by PH2 phillips drivers. My brother realized they're Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) #1 and #2 screws. JIS screws can
(usually) be identified by a single raised dot, next to the screw slot.
I stripped out my rotor screw and to remove it had to break the dust
cover to hacksaw a flathead into it. Next time I'll get some JIS drivers and save
myself a $4 part delivered to my local dealership.
Regardless, I really appreciate this clear and easy guide!
I found out about them a year ago many people understandably don't even know they exist.
Unfortunately the dot doesn't seem to be a standard I have found JIS fasteners without it. But my rule of thumb is if it doesn't have a dot, the head isn't stripped, and all of my Phillips drivers fit like crap then it's a JIS.
You can buy a 1/4" bit set from Vessel tools (Made In Japan) for under 4 bucks part number A-16621 (P1, P2, and P3) or A-16479 (PO, P1, and P2). If anyone is interested in a decent set.
If you push hard enough you usually can get away with it but if the fastener is really tight you can round it out. JIS unlike Phillips doesn't cam out (slip) when too much torque is applied. The most common cause of stripped Phillips screws (cam out) was an intentional design feature to prevent over tightening if you can believe that.
Bushougoma - Thank you very much for taking the time to show and explain the entire process. Also thank you for posting the part #'s for the two different types of distributors. Thanks to you I was able to buy the correct seals and installed them.!!! NO MORE OIL LEAKS!!!
Thanks for posting these videos man, helping me keep the wife's 94 EX on the road.
Comments are helpful too, in the video you just unsnap the wiring harnesses like its nothing, i wrestled with the wifes for over an hour then read the comment about metal bracket. Durrrr
I'm a mechanic but not a Honda guy, this video was great! Thank you so much!!
BLESS YOU, BUSHOUGOMA!!! This was a fantastic help, it made the job trivial! I've had an external and internal distributor leak in my 1997 Honda Accord SE 2.2l for quite some time. I finally got sick of leaving oil spots wherever I park and started to tackle the leaks one by one...did the valve cover gasket twice, the second time seems to be working. But then noticed oil around the distributor and was like WTF? Very glad to have your video to help solve this. Also replaced heater hose...
My 94 Honda Accord's distributor is leaking (outer leak). It's nice to get a visual of what the mechanic is going to do to my Snow (her name) :) Thank so much for the detailed video!
I have a semi bad oil leak and oil all down the engine all under the Distributor. THANK YOU so much for this video, After watching this Video i ordered every new part you did.
Extremely helpful video. I did the repair without a single problem and it works like a champ. Thanks!
This helped so much, I was gonna go buy a new Distributor at $250 (Hitachi Distributor). You saved me so much money. I really appreciate you...
Great video and information. FYI !!! It is possible to reinstall the distributor 180 degrees out. I figured this out after an hour of troubleshooting. Took it off, turned the dist end 180 degrees and reattached. Fired right up.
did you drain all the oil first?
Oil draining is not needed to pull the dist. off.
Kevin Miller yes I discovered that 33 weeks ago lol
I did the same thing, too! I came here to post a comment letting people know it can happen but you beat me. I don't feel quite so bad now, either! Haha.
Thank you for making this video. I have a 1993 Honda Civic Ex which should be very similar in regards to the repair process. I noticed today that I have a little oil inside of the distributor cap and oil underneath the distributor leaking on to the transmission. I am now confident on replacing the o-rings.
I just got done replacing the internal seal and outer O-Ring. Also did the Valve Cover Gasket job, replaced spark plugs and wires as well. All thanks to the two videos of yours. And guess what... The Heater Hose underneath the distributor popped open while I was testing it after the repair. And now I'm ordering the hose and watching your other video to get ready for that one. Lol
Well at least it didn't pop while you were on the road. Try to look on the bright side :-).
You may be able to avoid removing the distributor again if you can turn the ears of the spring clamp on the engine side of the hose with a screwdriver so you can access it from the side. The hose is sandwiched between the distributor body and the transmission bell housing.
I know I was glad to be just in my driveway, I think I'll just take the distributor back off, its quite simple now that I've done it a couple times. Again, I appreciate the videos they're very helpful!
Great job on the details and just the step by step instructions to where even the rookies could follow this and get the job done. Much appreciated..
Can't thank you enough for these videos - EXTREMELY well done and so incredibly helpful. With your video guidance, I've been inspired to try repairs I never would have had the confidence to do before. Thank you VERY much!!!
Great job Bushougoma! I love your videos, clarity, and instructions FANTASTIC WORK MAN!
Good video. Clear instructions, closeups when necessary, and tips to keep timing and distributor lines up.
Excellent video, just used it to repair my Mom's Civic and like you pointed out the heater hose had a bubble in it from the oil leak, replaced it as well.
I successfully completed this job thanks to your video so a huge thank you goes to Bushougoma. A little tip for others that are going to try this...my rotor was yellow and I had a hell of a time getting it off. (Bushougoma takes his off with relative ease at 4:08). I took the whole distributor off first and had to take a rubber mallet to the rotor hiting it through a bit, then hit it back from the other side. Then it finally popped off. My internal seal was also completely shot and was a bit different from the one in this video - it had a flat piece of metal inside the seal itself rather than that metal circular spring looking thing. Make sure to use the correct size phillips head screwdriver for the last 4 screws as I stripped one of mine (seen in video at 14:32) and it made it a lot harder to get the seal off because the whole assembly was dangling with the wire, but nonetheless I was able to complete this job in about 4 or 5 hours after all was said and done (I also changed the lower coolant hose as mentioned at 7:42 ...I got that at Napa for about $20 (I needed to have it done that day, but this part can be found online for much cheaper). The seals cost me only a few dollars off of Rockauto.com. I did it yesterday and not a drop of oil is leaking after taking old Rhonda out for a spin...thanks again Bushougoma!
Job complete. Interior seal leaking and external seal hardened. Did notice shiny groove in shaft where it turned in internal seal, will keep eye on it to see if it leaks again. Thanks again for video.
Mine leaked.
Thanx, major help putting my mind at ease for dist reinstall. Figured it was a one way only key, so if you're just pulling it to get to other work you don't really even need to pull the cap if you're pressed for time.
Excellent hands on video and very informative. I noticed while changing the oil in my 94 Accord that it’s distributor is starting to seep. And thanks for the heads up on the heater hose info. I need to watch that video as well. Take care!
I really like this video. Sounds and pictures are great. This guy really knows what he is talking about. I hope he posts more video for Honda Accord.
I am so glad I found your channel and a few others working on this gen accord. It's running like new again thanks to many of your videos! I just had this problem recently and you even have a full video covering that inner leak! Thanks so much!
I really can't thank you enough. Your video showed me exactly what to do, how to do and especially what to watch out for. Thank you!
Great video. I just bought a Hitachi distributor for an 89 accord from the local pull a part.. and the oil seal is very similar. Thanks for uploading it.
I made it fit but it bugged me so I found the Hitachi seal that has the same numbers (which are the seal size numbers) here. It fit perfectly but I couldn't have done this job without your great video! I found the seal online at Red's Auto Rehab.(they also carry the NOK seal.)
Great video with detail explanation! This vid is just what I needed and now feel confident to tackle this procedure. Thanks and great job. Keep them coming.
I thought I had watched all your videos but evidently I missed this one. As usual, great job.
I checked wires and everything was plugged up correctly. I got the car running now. I believe that I initially didn't secure my wires and flooded the engine attempting to get it started. I rolled it down a hill to get it towed and started it just before getting it on the tow truck. I believe I flooded teh engine because I got a large black cloud once it got started. Running great now thanks.
I just did mine. Thanks for the tip about marking the interface between the distributor and the cam before taking that ring off. I probably would have put it on backward otherwise. I had OBD 1 so I had more stuff in the bottom of the distributor. But I didn't have to remove any of it because my seal was 19 years old and it came off with the shaft. I just had to remove it from the shaft and push the new on in. The old one was hard as a rock no wonder it wasn't sealing anything.
Thanks for the reply, I might just have to get a spare one and slowly do it right. The oil slowly made it way to the dizzy cap and wore out the rubber o-ring of the cap. I just want this thing fixed!
very good and detailed. I had the same issue of oil leaking after replacing the out o ring. Thru this video, am no able to fix that leak. very annoying...
Thanks bro
Woot!!! just finished this job on my accord 96!! Thanks Bushougoma!!
Thank you Bushougoma. This was very helpful and I appreciate you posting this video with all this detail. It helped me understand exactly what was needed on my 95 Honda. Many Thanks.
i did, yes. i opened up the distributor again and did find oil inside of it. it is a tec distributor (it actually says "tec" right on it) so i went ahead and ordered the internal shaft seal you referenced. oddly, though there was no drain hole on the distributor cap. thanks for your help!
This vid is a good one for earlier Honda 4 cylinder distributor caps too, the one I have is almost identical! Thanks for the vid :)
Great video a lot a help for people like me,Iam not machanic but start fixing my olds car with videos like yours.Than You,Than you.God Bless Ypu.
Thanks, I found it was easier to put the cap and rotor on while the distributor was off the car.
Great video. Swapped out both O rings on my 97 accord.
Going to order these parts for grandmothers car. Thought it was leaking from valve cover until I saw this and looked in distributer.
These instructions are thorough. But I want to add one caveat from my own experience with this repair. I replaced the shaft and housing seals on a 95 Odyssey.The engine started and ran fine afterward. But it still showed an internal oil leak, i.e. oil up the shaft and out the cap gasket. My shaft had a groove in it that must have been cut by the original oil seal. At this point I just wrapped a paper shop towel around the distributor to soak up drips. But if you find this groove, a machine shop might be able to smooth out the shaft enough to reuse it.
Great video 👍 Noticed oil has accumulated inside the distributor and the engine will crank, but will not start. I’ll troubleshoot it this weekend and also order the o-ring kit. Hope it’s a easy fix, camshaft turns while cranking meaning timing belt is still intact. Only has 30k miles since I replaced it both timing belts.
Thank you for helping me keep my old 97 Honda running well - followed this repair procedure today and no more leak
First - great video and thanks.
I have a 96 Accord EX VTEC 4 Cyl that is leaking from the distributor
took it to a shop to have them change the valve cover gasket, but it's also leaking from the distributor. It's hard for to tell from where exactly. Distributor has 4 wires, so apparently Hitachi.
Going to take off the cap hoping to not see oil as you mention, I'm hoping it's external an leak because there seems to be a lot that can go wrong taking apart a distributor for a novice like me
Great video with excellent tips and details. Thanks for posting.
Darn! I have internal and external leaks. Thanks for the video!
Great video. Good explanation and detailed instruction. Greatly appreciated.
Justamente lo que andaba buscando. A mi me sirvió muchísimo este video. Muchas gracias mi amigo
Using your video.. I was successful at changing everything out. Thanks!!!
This was an awesome video... Very informative...
this is exactly what i needed to know. thank you for the video!
Awesome video. I'm doing this next week. Thanks!!!
A bit late to the party here, but it should be important for anyone attempting this to note: Most people tend to over-torque hardware, and this can be a disaster when you are torquing down bolts into ALUMINUM. First off, get yourself some anti-seize compound and lightly brush it onto the threads of any bolt going into aluminum, secondly, be diligent in looking up the proper torque values for the hardware you are tightening. having to ream and helicoil aluminum is no fun. Best regards, and great video.
Great video... Thanks for posting and your commentary is very detailed. Thanks
If you have a Hitachi distributor on the 2.3 you have the pressed in pin. The Tec distributors have the ring with the floating pin. But I think the Tecs were only on the DX models.
Thanks For Watching.
Thanks! You helped a lot of people with this video!
Thanks for the great video man, you've helped me out so much. Always making things look really easy. Love the step by step..
Very nice and detailed video. I have this leaking so I have to do this process. Now, I'm afraid that my hose might fail on my in the road :/
Thanks man! Doin this this weekend
Greta video, now a can fix my old honda, thanks.
Making no promises to anyone but when I did this on a Civic I accidentally spun the distributor lugs. It seemed I had a 50/50 chance of getting it right but when I fiddled about I discovered my distributor lugs are slightly offset so if you're gentle there is only one orientation that will insert. It makes sense really.
great video, good camera work and detail
Thank you for the very informative vlog. More power!!!
Thanks for this video really informational and helpful!
subscribed. you speak professionally. well done.
thanks! i'll have to double check for that oil trail. i just did the valve cover gasket less than a year ago so unless i screwed that up it's coming from somewhere else.
damnit i just spent like 20 minutes just trying to get the snap ring off, you make it look so easy, haha.
Perfect video. Needs one for 2000 Accord SE. Its hard to get the pin out on the Hitachi distributor
It sounds like you can tell which seal is broken depending on where the oil is leaking from your distributor. From what I gathered, the distributor O-ring leaks into the cap, and the internal shaft oil seal will leak into the housing. As he said, might as well replace them both while it is off, but in a pinch, one might just replace the O-ring to pass smog ASAP. The internal shaft oil seal is much harder to get to.
Excellent piece of instruction. Thank you for posting.
Straight to the point, Thanks!
when u said you dont want brake clean in your eyes i cringed..when i was 22-23 i was working on my crotch rocket..well the cylender was filled with brake clean after looking in the hole the guy bumped the engine over as i looked in..i had this bike running over 180lbs in each of 4 cyl well when it shot me in the eye i wanted to die..for 6 months i has metal and shi pulled out of my eye..almost went blind..ima safety eye glass wearing son of a gun..9 months in the bed..going blind makes you see so differntly..thankyou lord!!!!!
Great work on the editing man! Great DIY!
Great video. I am really curious, you say that OBD 2 hondas you can't adjust timing and not to worry about distributor alignment - but I'm seeing a lot of info on adjusting the timing for my 98 CRV. Any insight here?
He(the mechanic) try to scan the car with a device as i said and he showd me on the device, "the distirbutor replaced" thing and he said the problem is this we need to buy and change it sohe pulled out the distirbutor because to take this out and put the new one in place. Yes it is OBD II, i saw it as the video you posted.
This is a great video! Thanks for posting this and the other Accord videos! I am having this exact issue with my '94 Accord EX. I am sort of mechanically inclined but have never done a repair like this. How long (time wise) should this repair take for a first timer? Will this affect the timing once I replace it? Will replacing these 2 seals fix the loss of power that I am having?
My prelude might need this
Hi there just stumbled on video as my 92 Honda Accord is having a distributer internal leak and to fix it , it's going cost me heaps, now 1990 distributer would fit on a 1992?
Thanks
Thanks buddy 👍 Just what I need 😬
Fantastic Video saved the day for me. Very detailed thank you for the video :)
Thank you for your response & advice!
I've understood most things bc he is a good teacher. The part in not understanding is the reference point for the two dimples. I saw they are both vertical, but I don't know the how to line them up, or what I'm lining them up with. So how do I ensure I don't reinstall it out 180 degrees? I'm not sure what I'm marking.
I pulled all the wires out (including the and reconnected them. The car actually turned over, but immediately cut off. I am thinking of replacing the distributor cap rotor. Wires look fine.
Great video I truly appreciate it being up
Well done tutorial. I followed it step by step which made this job a breeze. Thank you sooooo much!
Hey, thank you for the NOK part # !! :)
Thanks for the great video I just fixed mine , again thanks
You're awesome, great video!
Thank you so much for your videos 👍
For those who plan to work on a hitachi ...there is no snap ring for the coupler pin. Its pressed in. This means a punch and a big ass hammer to get it out and to get it back in. Just a heads up.
Apparently I have the Hitachi and am having an impossible time trying to punch it out. Almost doesnt seem to budge, not sure what to do.
Great video btw, my hose looked like it was ready to dissolve.
take the hitachi shell up to a local shop along with a 6 pack of beer... have them punch it out. once you change your seal have them punch it back in.
Lol, I broke 3 punches but eventually got it out. Had to buy a vice which I since returned back to Home Depot. Again great video, saved me some money.
Yeah but that's a bit overkill for just turning the engine a bit.
Just pull the connector on the fuel injector resistor pack (metal component with heat sink fins on it) you'll find it at the upper right corner of the engine compartment on the firewall. This will remove battery voltage from all four injectors to prevent the engine from starting.
Then just quickly cycle the ignition switch to start until the screw lines up.
Or just pull the distributor and remove the rotor later.
very great and detailed video, helped very much!