Thank you! You saved me hours of climbing under the car. This method was much easier than what I had been planning to do, from what I saw on other videos! just had to get under to slide in the CV axle.
This video solved a problem I spent 5 hours trying to get around. The CV shaft bearing was stuck in that engine mount. Heated it up, penetrating oil, I even welded a pipe to the inner cv and hammered the crap out of it to pull it out. Wouldn't budge. Was driving me CRAZY. Watched 4 or 5 videos on removing it to get other ideas. None of them mentioned removing the 3 bolts holding the bracket onto the engine itself. I did that, pulled it with ease then once removed I could seperate the bracket from the bearing with a bit more brute force and remounted. Heartfelt thanks mate!!
I don't know if your a mechanic for a living or not, But you have a much better video than most repair shops that have 2 people doing this. I have 04 SL also & your vid helped me more than any others. Great Video! Thanks for doing it, your way of leaving the tie rod and A-frame(swing arm) is best way.
Mich M. Thanks for the comment. I'm not a mechanic by trade but I have some basic knowledge and I have been ripped off by dealerships and shops in the past. Im just trying to help out where I can. Thanks again. Much appreciated!!
Thanks John...I always try to take a common sense approach and it sounds like you do also. I appreciate you!!!
3 роки тому+1
Damn that’s how I usually use the method to remove the axle and my boss yells at me and gives me hard time for removing the caliper. It took me less than 3 min to remove that caliper so to me it wasn’t a big deal but because I don’t do exactly what he tells me, gets yelled out. Apparently he does it without removing the caliper but I tell him it stresses the brake caliper hose and better off being taken off and doesn’t even take much time to remove caliper and easier to work on job with much more open space.
You're absolutely right. It sucks that u can't be productive in a way that makes you comfortable but I guess rules are rules to some...even if they don't make sense all the time...
Great video. I have owned a mobile repair business for over 12 years and I think you did a great job doing the job like a seasoned professional. Actually, even better than some I have seen. That is how I do them as well. Just take out the bracket with it especially when the bearing is destroyed. Much easier to handle outside with much more space.
Marc Smith thank you sir, I appreciate your comment and the common sense mechanics that are out there to help people and get the job done easier. I looked at it and it just made sense...lol
I'm trying to figure out is this the same procedure on your 2004 Nissan quest or do I have to remove everything I'm going to try to do your steps to see if they actually works on my Nissan I hope it does
Nice video. Thanks for sharing. Since you didn't remove or change the position of any of the suspension components like some of the other videos recommend, you wouldn't need a front alignment afterwards either right?
We do it all Some additional comments for others doing this repair. I just did it yesterday on my 2003 drivers side. 1. The bracket is only on the passengers side so don't freak out when you don't see it. 2. Removing/inserting the axel from/in the transmission is really the hardest part of the job. By not removing the lower control arm you lose a lot of accessibility to where the axel meets the transmission, but if your patient, it doesn't matter. Due to the joints (the parts under the rubber boots) the parts of the axel move somewhat independently. So you really need to get leverage as close to the transmission as possible. I found that the best angle is under the car, perpendicular to the side, if you go under far enough you can get grips using both hands to both rotate the shaft to align the splines and push the shaft past the retaining clip into position. 3. When removing the shaft, remove the splines from the knuckle before removing the splines from the transmission for extra clearance in the tight space. 4. When inserting, put the axel wheel spline into the knuckle loosely, put the axel transmission splines in place loosely, then reattach the 19mm bolt/nut combo to the strut. This will help both align the axel correctly and remove some of the weight so don't have to be strong and precise at the same time.
@@wedoitall7676 I've found from experience, that anytime you disturb any part of the front suspension, you will need an alignment. When you remove the 2 camber (strut) bolts, you change the vertical angle of the wheel which also affects the geometry of the toe-in toe-out. Not a lot, but enough that you'll get bad tire wear, usually on the outside of the tire tread, and you might notice a little drift or torque steer when driving on good flat roads. JMHO!
@@Oldpuck81 thanks for your response. The only thing I moved was the bottom bolt I never removed the tierod end or any other suspension bolts. I haven't had any issues with tire wear at all. Thanks again
@@10krms8 the tie rod ends have a bolt that hold them in place. If you accidentally turned them then your alignment will be off. There are no other components that I know of that would cause this during an axle change if you followed the method in the video..I would just double check everything and make sure everything is tight. You may need to get it checked for an alignment tho...
@@10krms8 there is a metal plate on the back of the brake rotor that gets bent sometimes...it could be what's causing your noise. All you have to do is bend it back and the noise should go away..
sorry for the late preseason. Hopefully you got it by now...if not use heat and penetrant. work the heat around the stuck area and it should loosen up.
@@wedoitall7676 I went from under and actually worked out very well, i just had to lift the car a bit more to get some leverage, thanks for the vid/response, once I took the 4 nuts off for my Altima I was relieved lol, my 07 has 4 nuts holding the bracket
Great job my man..im guessing you don't turn wrenches for a living? So anyway I do and I had to watch you video an show the customer your video to show them it's an real easy job..other hand there's wasnt..take notes fellas..you can skin a cat several ways..well I removed lower ball joint nut an broke it free with a single blow 3lb sledge.pryed lower control down to move strut over..just like the video along with caliper.so next I removed 3 bolts from c.v axle bracket to block..ok good so far..the half shaft literally fell out due to worn out..so I try to remove inner an to my luck it d ont pop out..ok pry bar..pry pry n pry..wtf no go..so I get under look to see if it had a pin or bolt threw axle an no..ok I go back to pry.n over n over..no breakie.dam.so I had to beat it out only after droping exhaust down an breaking dem rusty bitches a few off..wtf..ok I beat it an beat it an fin ally pop..smiles an out a breath..the last technician d idnt lube the ends of shaft nor lined up splints and beat it in with a hammer 2 months prior..outcome damaged an destroyed c.v axle an shaft on trans..1hr job took 2 days.replaced c.v axle and transmission..good luck guys an ty for the video..
you are absolutely correct boss....I do this in my spare time 4 friends and neighbors. I'm sorry you had such a crazy time doing this but I'm glad u got it done. Thanks 4 the comment..
Great video. Thanks for the help.
No problem at all!!
Thank you! You saved me hours of climbing under the car. This method was much easier than what I had been planning to do, from what I saw on other videos! just had to get under to slide in the CV axle.
Glad it helped! Thanks for the comments
This video solved a problem I spent 5 hours trying to get around. The CV shaft bearing was stuck in that engine mount. Heated it up, penetrating oil, I even welded a pipe to the inner cv and hammered the crap out of it to pull it out. Wouldn't budge. Was driving me CRAZY. Watched 4 or 5 videos on removing it to get other ideas. None of them mentioned removing the 3 bolts holding the bracket onto the engine itself. I did that, pulled it with ease then once removed I could seperate the bracket from the bearing with a bit more brute force and remounted.
Heartfelt thanks mate!!
Glad i could help sir
I don't know if your a mechanic for a living or not, But you have a much better video than most repair shops that have 2 people doing this. I have 04 SL also & your vid helped me more than any others. Great Video! Thanks for doing it, your way of leaving the tie rod and A-frame(swing arm) is best way.
Mich M. Thanks for the comment. I'm not a mechanic by trade but I have some basic knowledge and I have been ripped off by dealerships and shops in the past. Im just trying to help out where I can. Thanks again. Much appreciated!!
Sorry paul god has a plan for you for sure
I have been working on cars since I was 10 years old and that is exactly how I did mine great job. IAM 50 now.
Thanks John...I always try to take a common sense approach and it sounds like you do also. I appreciate you!!!
Damn that’s how I usually use the method to remove the axle and my boss yells at me and gives me hard time for removing the caliper. It took me less than 3 min to remove that caliper so to me it wasn’t a big deal but because I don’t do exactly what he tells me, gets yelled out. Apparently he does it without removing the caliper but I tell him it stresses the brake caliper hose and better off being taken off and doesn’t even take much time to remove caliper and easier to work on job with much more open space.
You're absolutely right. It sucks that u can't be productive in a way that makes you comfortable but I guess rules are rules to some...even if they don't make sense all the time...
Good money 💪🏾
Other video I watched had me scared to even try to replace the CV axle, You made it seem so simple! Thanks!
No problem at all boss!!!
Great video man 👍 I'm replacing mine tomorrow, I don't dread it at all anymore after watching your video, thanks bro!
im about to change out my CV axel next weekend, thanks for the info!
Anytime
Thanks for the video buddy help me out a lot
I'm doing this job Sat wish me luck! Thanks for the video!
You got it!!!...take your time and it will be a breeze!!.. be blessed!!
@@wedoitall7676 Yessir Thank You
Thanks for the help. My axel was stuck like yours was am in going to remove the bracket from the motor.
David White that should work for you. Let me know if I can be of any more assistance
Thanks brotha! Just did mine just like you it was simple. 👍🏼
Glad to hear it!!
Great video.
I have owned a mobile repair business for over 12 years and I think you did a great job doing the job like a seasoned professional. Actually, even better than some I have seen. That is how I do them as well. Just take out the bracket with it especially when the bearing is destroyed. Much easier to handle outside with much more space.
Marc Smith thank you sir, I appreciate your comment and the common sense mechanics that are out there to help people and get the job done easier. I looked at it and it just made sense...lol
Cool. thanks for posting got a 07 that im gonna be doing wheel bearing and half-shaft on.
Dave Cebrowski I didn't mention in the video to take the abs sensor out.. Never mind, you're changing the bearings anyway.. Lol.. Good luck sir
Those bolts aren't even close to being 19 mm !
It was a guess....I probably forgot to update it if it's wrong...but the job doesn't change
Awesome video! Thank you!
I'm trying to figure out is this the same procedure on your 2004 Nissan quest or do I have to remove everything I'm going to try to do your steps to see if they actually works on my Nissan I hope it does
Im not sure but I hope its similar...the chassis are not that much different....good luck!!
Nice video. Thanks for sharing. Since you didn't remove or change the position of any of the suspension components like some of the other videos recommend, you wouldn't need a front alignment afterwards either right?
Matt Conte no alignment needed. Just put it back together and enjoy. Thanks for commenting!!
We do it all Some additional comments for others doing this repair. I just did it yesterday on my 2003 drivers side.
1. The bracket is only on the passengers side so don't freak out when you don't see it.
2. Removing/inserting the axel from/in the transmission is really the hardest part of the job. By not removing the lower control arm you lose a lot of accessibility to where the axel meets the transmission, but if your patient, it doesn't matter. Due to the joints (the parts under the rubber boots) the parts of the axel move somewhat independently. So you really need to get leverage as close to the transmission as possible. I found that the best angle is under the car, perpendicular to the side, if you go under far enough you can get grips using both hands to both rotate the shaft to align the splines and push the shaft past the retaining clip into position.
3. When removing the shaft, remove the splines from the knuckle before removing the splines from the transmission for extra clearance in the tight space.
4. When inserting, put the axel wheel spline into the knuckle loosely, put the axel transmission splines in place loosely, then reattach the 19mm bolt/nut combo to the strut. This will help both align the axel correctly and remove some of the weight so don't have to be strong and precise at the same time.
Matt Conte thanks Matt for contributing to the community. I know that your experience will help someone else along the way...
@@wedoitall7676 I've found from experience, that anytime you disturb any part of the front suspension, you will need an alignment. When you remove the 2 camber (strut) bolts, you change the vertical angle of the wheel which also affects the geometry of the toe-in toe-out. Not a lot, but enough that you'll get bad tire wear, usually on the outside of the tire tread, and you might notice a little drift or torque steer when driving on good flat roads. JMHO!
@@Oldpuck81 thanks for your response. The only thing I moved was the bottom bolt
I never removed the tierod end or any other suspension bolts. I haven't had any issues with tire wear at all. Thanks again
Hey man got an 05 mixima i need an axle for driver side after is done do u need a lightment thanks man any tip will help alot
As long as you don't change the tie rod ends you dont have to worry about the alignment..
We do it all so i got it in but now my steering wheel is to the right n not center wt u think it is
@@10krms8 the tie rod ends have a bolt that hold them in place. If you accidentally turned them then your alignment will be off. There are no other components that I know of that would cause this during an axle change if you followed the method in the video..I would just double check everything and make sure everything is tight. You may need to get it checked for an alignment tho...
We do it all thanks alot man i am going to have check for an alightmet also i am getting a skiki noise when the wheel si moving
@@10krms8 there is a metal plate on the back of the brake rotor that gets bent sometimes...it could be what's causing your noise. All you have to do is bend it back and the noise should go away..
Mine is frozen, not coming out
sorry for the late preseason. Hopefully you got it by now...if not use heat and penetrant. work the heat around the stuck area and it should loosen up.
how did you remove that 3rd bolt on the bracket, the farthest one in?? im having a hell of a time trying to break it off, thanks
I used a 1/4 inch rachet with a swivel and a long extension. It took some doing but I got it
@@wedoitall7676 I went from under and actually worked out very well, i just had to lift the car a bit more to get some leverage, thanks for the vid/response, once I took the 4 nuts off for my Altima I was relieved lol, my 07 has 4 nuts holding the bracket
@@hardkore360 glad you got it. The maxims only had 3 so it was a little easier...great job!!
Great job my man..im guessing you don't turn wrenches for a living? So anyway I do and I had to watch you video an show the customer your video to show them it's an real easy job..other hand there's wasnt..take notes fellas..you can skin a cat several ways..well I removed lower ball joint nut an broke it free with a single blow 3lb sledge.pryed lower control down to move strut over..just like the video along with caliper.so next I removed 3 bolts from c.v axle bracket to block..ok good so far..the half shaft literally fell out due to worn out..so I try to remove inner an to my luck it d ont pop out..ok pry bar..pry pry n pry..wtf no go..so I get under look to see if it had a pin or bolt threw axle an no..ok I go back to pry.n over n over..no breakie.dam.so I had to beat it out only after droping exhaust down an breaking dem rusty bitches a few off..wtf..ok I beat it an beat it an fin ally pop..smiles an out a breath..the last technician d idnt lube the ends of shaft nor lined up splints and beat it in with a hammer 2 months prior..outcome damaged an destroyed c.v axle an shaft on trans..1hr job took 2 days.replaced c.v axle and transmission..good luck guys an ty for the video..
you are absolutely correct boss....I do this in my spare time 4 friends and neighbors. I'm sorry you had such a crazy time doing this but I'm glad u got it done. Thanks 4 the comment..