Holy crap this is extremely complicated and nuanced. Much respect. Man you have to be of sound mind and character to do something like this. It takes patience, and an extreme amount of conscientiousness to do this.
Observation/question: Did you mean to apply the silicone outside the two lower bolt holes on the rear cover? Seems it might leak from those. I believe the sealant was applied inside the perimeter of the other holes?
Great stuff/info Brent! I don't know why, but these Coyote engines intimidate me big time. I would love to drop one in my 67 Mustang Gt and nix the 460 BB in there but my skill set is lacking concerning these Coyote engines thus my confidence to do it. Probably just go with a 351W roller block and build a nice little 408 stroker. Cheers from Motown! Thank you.
A'lot of aftermarket pistons are designed to disperse heat and with doing so expand with them in the cool pistons to much and allow the pistons to not expand and in doing so oil gets past rings and lowers compression holding abilities.
Main stud’s but head bolts? Sealing the heads (imho) is as important as the mains, just like the rods. I understand that stud’s are more expensive than bolts but torque to yield are butter bolts. I’m just surprised on a “high hp “ n/a combination.
Very rarely do I use head studs. Just not necessary on naturally aspirated stuff. Only reason I switched to main studs is because factory fasteners are torque to yield and you end up checking bearing clearances more than once.
Awesome engines. Those coyotes are impressive. I wish someone near me could help me understand what im doing wrong with my 390. All freshly rebuilt and starts ticking after warmed up. Frustrating!
Holy crap this is extremely complicated and nuanced. Much respect. Man you have to be of sound mind and character to do something like this. It takes patience, and an extreme amount of conscientiousness to do this.
Awesome.
Great to see you do a Coyote engine..
Awesome setup coyote is a real Chevy and mopar killer Ford powered forever baby
Nice build Brent.
The factory block and crankshaft looks good.
Have a good week. 👍
Good work!
It's coming along nicely.
Thanks Brent! Great work as always
Observation/question: Did you mean to apply the silicone outside the two lower bolt holes on the rear cover? Seems it might leak from those. I believe the sealant was applied inside the perimeter of the other holes?
Thank God for piston ring compressor rings!
Great stuff/info Brent! I don't know why, but these Coyote engines intimidate me big time. I would love to drop one in my 67 Mustang Gt and nix the 460 BB in there but my skill set is lacking concerning these Coyote engines thus my confidence to do it. Probably just go with a 351W roller block and build a nice little 408 stroker. Cheers from Motown! Thank you.
Why plug piston coolers?
Don’t need them. Gen 3 Coyotes don’t even have them anymore.
This is the modern commercial.
They produce crazy power and rpm.
1,000 hp under boost is pretty easy.
That Ford sealant is the same stuff Yamaha has called Yamabond for their engine cases .... mean stuff that is for sure !
How much was the block?
Why would you block off the oil squirters?
Waste of oil on a naturally aspirated engine. The Gen 3 Coyotes don't even have them.
A'lot of aftermarket pistons are designed to disperse heat and with doing so expand with them in the cool pistons to much and allow the pistons to not expand and in doing so oil gets past rings and lowers compression holding abilities.
Main stud’s but head bolts? Sealing the heads (imho) is as important as the mains, just like the rods. I understand that stud’s are more expensive than bolts but torque to yield are butter bolts. I’m just surprised on a “high hp “ n/a combination.
Very rarely do I use head studs. Just not necessary on naturally aspirated stuff. Only reason I switched to main studs is because factory fasteners are torque to yield and you end up checking bearing clearances more than once.
Awesome engines. Those coyotes are impressive. I wish someone near me could help me understand what im doing wrong with my 390. All freshly rebuilt and starts ticking after warmed up. Frustrating!
A worn lifter bore,did my block in..🦨
timing chain hitting the inside of the timing chain cover? the new cam gear we put on had the spacer built in but we added one anyway not realizing it
Is this the Werewolf block?
I don't know what a Werewolf block is, but this one is a Ford Racing block, off the shelf.
No,
The Werewolf block is cast iron...for extremely high HP builds.
perkins diesels have thrust bearing like that the first time is disconcerting for sure.
Suck at teaching I still don’t know how to install piston rings smh