Thank you for making this. Can’t believe ikea didn’t think through this problem themselves with any instructions or additional info about finishing boards.
This is literally why i love youtube! I fitted these wardrobes today. And thinking. What is the best way to fit the wardrobes to the wall. Boom. The video i was after!
It would be much easier to just put a solid narrow board (just like the skirting) across the whole unit. That way you can screw the board into the wood studs in the wall which would be much more reliable. And it makes the install easier since you don’t need any anchors. Then you can just drill from inside the wardrobe and put the screws in place. Much easier since you don’t have to line up the holes and much more secure. This is assuming you have a stud finder device and studs in the wall at some fixed distance as we do in most American homes at least.
Wearing the shoes of an assembler, this is unsustainable. All you need is some elements behind the brackets. Moreover the back surface of Pax is not just even. Only fits one-shot personal diy experiences.
The guy has brick wall, no studs. I'd guess studs is really something US specific. From personal experience in Europe 80% of time you have brick or concrete wall.
What you say could work assuming the room you're install in has square and level floors and walls. Securing them in my 1890s build weatherboard house's wall was a whole different story, as distance between wardrobe and wall varies depending which side of the room you're in hehe
You can use drywall anchors and there is no need to line with studs, it's not holding the wardrobe weight, just prevents it from falling on you, and the drywall anchors are good enough for it
Thank you so much for the detailled tutorial. This was extremely helpful. We live in a rental and I didnt want to rip out the skirting so this is the perfect solution!
Am a PAX Installer in Melbourne/Australia & wall attach is a personal choice with 58cms depth but advisable with 35cm depth & 50cm doors/sliding doors Can remove skirting board (SKB) and replace where required, cut the SKB to fit the frames where required, with SKB in situ-use a piece of wood over holes or full width of PAX, 20mm electrical pipe etc. Interesting video but not a way I would select. 3cms off wall option would be steel brackets on top. Many ways available
Does this compromise the load-bearing ability of the wardrobe? The structural integrity? Trying to decide if i should do this but have a LOT of clothes 😂
@@Kiara_Wrestler I’m not engineer but I dont think so. Body is made of chipboard and if you have sharp blade holes are to look clean and pieces are easy to cut. Skirts are so thin that the modification/difference is actually very small. My closet is also full of stuff and still perfectly standing 😊
I used mini space plugs instead. Held them in place with a little bit of double sided tape whilst screwing through from the wardrobe. A less invasive, more discreet and just as sturdy way of filling the void when skirting and/or picture rails are in situ.
Its far easier if you put a full batten the same width as the wardrobe onto the wall instead of small bits of wood for 2 reasons...less chance of washers screws hitting screws on wood as you can have screws wider apart...you don't have to join wardrobe together first as batten already there, 1 wardrobe far easier to move than 2 wardrobes ! Your wardrobes are not plumb to the wall as your wood on the wall needs to be the same thickness as your skirting board...you could have problems with doors not staying open and draws sliding shut as wardrobe not vertical to wall.
Great tutorial. Especially the ‘how to compensate for skirting’. Another technique I’ve used (and picked up from shop fitters) is to cut the skirting board section out so that the unit sits flush with the wall. That said if you have carpet you’ll also need to remove the gripper rods underneath so that the unit will sit level.
Thank you for this! I actually have baseboard heaters to contend with.. pushing out a full 4 inches. But this video is really helping me figure it out!
Thank you so much your videos were very informative and useful. I wanted to know if I can the attaching the wall part, I don’t want mine attached to the wall. Hopefully someone will be able to answer me.
Hi Peter! This is an exceptional video, thank you. We are trying to decide whether to remove the skirting and affix it directly to the wall (we installed this beautiful skirting a couple of years ago so I acknowledge my hesitation is not practical..) or do what you have done here but to a plaster wall. Do you have any suggestions about the gap to make it appear a little more aesthetically pleasing?
very inspiring, just complicated and stiff, check this one 1) mount and join cabinets, tick the screw places on the wall 2) measure wall distance from each bracket -- BECAUSE, they could each one be different 3) detache the cabinet and make holes in the wall, push plugs into 4) have already prepared at home, some wooden squares, 2 inches side, different heights --- the squares have a hole inside: actually they are thickness nuts OK? 6) put as many nuts around the screw, so each thickness fills a specific gap (see #2) 7) screw in, just not that much 8) push cabinet onto the wall, and match the screws into the brackets 9) tighten and serve hot So the secret is having those thickness nuts already with you then. Working to find a faster system to avoid detaching the cabinet each time, still no better idea. Being suggested about L-brackets (see Ikea Billy), I think it is excellent, but for really large gaps. Still prefer to use this method. Just asking, why shouldn't Pax have the same gap-filling screws of Besta and Platsa. Best luck
Can you please explain the purpose of the wooden piece? I have my PAX fixed to the wall in brick wall. There is about 1 or 2 cm distance between the wall and the wardrobe, but it seems to be fixed in place.
It's used to offset the cabinet from the wall the same distance as the baseboard. I think most people would cut the baseboard with an oscillating tool so the cabinet sits flush to the wall, though.
The wood could also be extended across the whole wall behind the wardrobes and fixed to the uprights that makeup paster board walls. Then you can carry on connecting the wardrobes more securly straight to the wooden battens and not worry about plasterboard issues.
I had this same issue, however I wanted to figure out another way I can anchor the wardrobe to the wall without drilling wood against the wall to secure the screws and close the gap. I got a longer and tad thicker screw that would close the gap and still reach the plastic anchor in the wall. I find that this is less minimal work and more hidden from the side without compromising the strength of the anchor from the wardrobe to the wall
Oh that’s really cool! What do they look like? I’ve ordered mine and will be delivered in a few wks(my preference) and trying to figure out via online manual, but they haven’t updated them and it’s still the old style 😔
Thank you for the video, I wanted to know if the wood you used on the wall is mandatory ? Can I fix it directly without the wood ? ( I do have a baseboard as well maybe thinner than the one in this video )
If you want to doit without then you should remove skirting board and attach them without any gap. Depending oil the wall you will need correct wall plugs and screws
Nicely done I was looking for a video like that cause i have this problem, and they come with doors so when you open the door they like about to fall 🤷🏽♀️
Hello, I noticed your reply on this comment. I have two pax frames with hinged doors on each (total of 4 doors), if we follow your directions from this video is it likely to fall? Or is anchoring enough to sustain the wardrobe and 4 doors?
Anchoring is a must for these tall types of furniture and IKEA have warnings about it on every instruction sheet. There have been deaths caused by unsecured furniture falling on children..........
Hi, thanks for the tutorial, excellent and easy to understand. Just wanted to ask if I do the same thing if I have skirting as well as picture rail. Also my wall is stud wall, please can you advise me. Thanks in advance.
PAX wardrobes have adjustable legs at the front to make sure that you can level the wardrobe and/or distribute the load front to back. You do not want the front/back/side touching the floor only. The load should be evenly distributed. You may think all floors/walls are square, but they are often not even on new builds. Also floors can be uneven so you want to take up any gaps.
Hi Peter Your videos are super helpful! I need to attach the tall Pax wardrobes to a plasterboard wall. Would I use masonry screws for this? M8 or similar? I read that someone mentions using packers as well as the above as the fixings can fail. What would you advise? I don't trust plasterboard fixings, after renovating our house I can see how simple & fragile things can be!
Hi. For plaster board wall you would need to get something like this amzn.to/3VyDZId and attach with them small pieces of wood (same as in the video) with these special wall plugs for plasterboard also you need the setting tool included with wall plugs. After you attach wardrobe to the wooden pieces not directly to the wall also make sure wardrobe is straight with the wall or leaning towards the wall before attaching.
I am installing this in my garage and the wall is the usual board and not drywall. What screws, washers and anchors do you suggest? This is a great video by the way.
I've done a similar thing with an Ikea kallax unit. I covered the gap with a strip of white PVC, stuck on with silicone. It has a flat profile against the wall and a rounded profile at the front, e.g. www.amazon.co.uk/Window-Door-Architrave-Plastic-White/dp/B00KRJK3JM. You can cut the plastic around the profile of the skirting with a jigsaw or coping saw. I also used off-cuts of skirting board as the packing, so it was the same thickness.
I screwed and plugged a 4x2 into my brick wall and connected my two 100cm Pax into that. Choice is to scribe some wood to fill the gap perfectly which may involve extra filling and painting. Or use some strips of painted finished wood or MDF wide enough to overlap and cover the gap. Pin or glue to fit to the side of the wardrobe or glue a one cm square strip behind the wide strip and glue it to the back of the wardrobe. Why did I do it like that........... I have huge two inch deep Victorian skirting boards which I'd rather not cut out as it then opens a whole can of worms especially with some lathe and plaster walls. The next owners will probably thank me for leaving them in situ.
Absolutely......... Just so long as you have studs to secure your 2000mm length of wood into, thereby allowing the Pax to be secured straight onto it. The above scenario involved a brick wall which would require drilling and plugging the 2000mm wood to the wall before securing the Pax onto it. Lack of a long length of wood makes smaller sections viable, that's why it's called DIY. Other options are to remove the skirting completely and drill, plug and secure directly to brick wall.
My units are assembled. Logistics prevented me from having them lashed to each other and the wall before adding all the drawers rods and shelves. Am I too late? Is it still possible to have them clamped together and attached to the wall?
I wish I saw this video before fitting the wardrobe. I’ve got a thick skirting board in my newly renovated house and after finishing the fitting of the wardrobe tried adjusting it a bit and the entire thing pulled itself out from the wall, plugs included. Any advice on how I could fix it with minimum drilling?
Just a thought on similar problems to this one......... Pax was fixed to the wall straight into wall plugs without any wood spacers and have pulled out. Remove screws and slide some skirting board thick section of wood VERTICALLY down behind Pax to the fixing lug. Leave enough showing above Pax to allow you to drill, plug and screw wood into wall. Secure Pax with screw through fixing lug into the wood. Repeat above for each individual securing point.
Love your videos!...i actually have skirting on one side and then another side is the radiant heater unit!.. But I wish you could do one like this with an actual corner unit! I'm building a 5 unit PAX with right facing corner unit. I don't understand what the black piece that they want you to attach to the the frame that the corner unit intersects with is for. In the instructions it seems like they don't want the black piece to touch the wall, instead they want 4" of space, but that's impossible without having the black piece touch the wall. I keep getting 5"! Help! Or is this not a big deal?? Also, with having so many frames should I still join them all together first then move the whole piece or join them in pieces et. Join 3 on long wall then affix to wall then join corner unit and other unit to the others??
Just done this myself. I don’t think the black plastic piece is that important, it’s certainly nothing structural and my guess is that it is just to stop things falling down the gap in the corner between the two wardrobe sections. Mine fell off when I was maneuvering the two parts into a tight corner and so I left it off.
I have to fix a Pax wardrobe frame to a brick wall which has concrete instead of plaster. I know that on the other side of the wall is electric light wires. Could you tell me what Brand of detector you used to detect the wires, and would it be suitable the kind of wall I described. Regards.
You can check one I use in my amazon store (link in description) must say is not 100% and I'm also looking for new one there is later and cheaper model also from BOSCH mixed reviews hard to find something reliable in this area. Will be still looking if you see a new one in my latest videos I found one :)
Which option would be better - removing the carpet grippers where the wardrobe sits (to stop it tilting forwards due to it sitting on them), or just placing a slab of MDF where the adjustable feet will go?
Thank you Peter for sharing your experience via videos! May I kindly ask for your opinion on the option I am contemplating about. I consider attaching a 236x100x35 cm PAX wardrobe to a wall, where I have a wooden skirting board (1 cm thick; 6cm high). Instead of cutting the skirting board or putting "buffering" (pieces of wood in your example), why can't I just cut the bottom of each side panel (~1 cm deep and ~6 cm high), then slide the wardrobe towards the wall and finally attach it? To me, such cutting should not materially affect the rigidity of the wardrobe's construction + since the wardrobe will be installed in a dry closet, there should be no moisture getting into the (untreated) cutting areas at the bottom of the side panels. Thank you in advance for your reply.
Sound like a headache but I would rather cut off the exact amount of skirting board and slide wardrobe between instead of cutting wardrobe. If you decide to cut just make sure the skirting board is not taller than the bottom dividing panel otherwise you have to cut not just side panels at the bottom backside but the bottom dividing panel two. Another thing thickness of the skirting board can come across screws connecting side panels with bottom dividing panels not mentioning cutting have to be a straight line and depending on the saw you will use these materials easy to chip and can create zigzag as you cut. Asi mentioned too much hassle.
That depending on what kind of wall you have. Here I did with the Ikea wall plugs they have them in the store and I have here brick wall if I remember correctly. If you have plasterboard there is special wall plugs for that.
How much do you charge for these PAX installations? I just did mine myself and would much rather pay a skilled installer such as yourself if I ever have to do it again.
Hello, thank you for the video. I didnt understand something: you dia a hole for the main screw (the one that comes from the inside of the wardrobe) or you just fix it to the wooden plate, that is atttached to the wall? Thank you
The main screw will go into the wall, right? because it is longer than the thickness of the wooden plate. So woudnt you need to put a plug for the main screw?so the screw wont go directly to the wall? Thank you
Absolutely fine......... Until someone opens both doors, stands up on the edge of the base to reach up high and it falls forward. Children have been crushed by toppling furniture and Ikea have warnings about it in their literature. If it's not secured, then make sure you keep heavy items on the bottom to limit movement as a top heavy wardrobe will eventually come down.
Thanks for your Infos! I need to install and old cabinet that is very heavy and I want some of the weight to go into the wall instead onto the floor. Is this method good for my use to?
There’s nothing you can do to cover the gap without cutting so part of the bottom to fit ur skirting. Else you want to fill the back with wooden board following the size you need
Once you’ve decided you’ll have your wardrobe 2cm away from the wall nothing really matters anymore. Having the gap is really ugly. In short: cut the skirting and make it flush with the wall.
Many people don’t want to remove skirting board and that why you can see here how is done. And yes it is easier to do it without if you have solid wall.
Don't slide joined wardrobes on the carpet. You have to do that one by one once you drill the wall and have everything ready can join the frames and after attach to the wall.
i just leant the wardrobe against the wall very slightly because of the skirting board and secured it with screws and the wardrobe tilt is barely noticeable. is this actually safe and can the four screws i used and the wall take the weight of the wardrobe and prevent it from falling over?
@@brad1ey50 So, plaster walls are fairly tricky to fix anything securely to them if you use the wrong fixings, you may have seen photos online of people's new tv's in a heap on the floor after the wall fixings failed?! There are a few different options of plasterboard fixings available that would most likely be ok for holding a wardrobe to a wall but I would just be wary of putting them through too much stress, for example standing on the base to reach up and store things etc. If it really isn't much of a tilt then you should be fine, think of plasterboard like thick paper and if there's too much movement then it may tear/break. The best, most secure option I would recommend if you're at all worried is to find where the studs are and work out a way to attach the wardrobe to them, angle brackets fixed to the top work well. If, like some of my walls, there is brickwork behind the plasterboard simply drill into the brick and use longer screws with plasterboard specific fixings. Hopefully this helps
I'm doing the same thing with my wardrobe, but my wall scanner has pick up electric signal and metal, so scared to drill, can I used something like 'no more nail adhesive to attach the wood to the wall?
there is no real need to put a screw for each hole, and I don't think you get a warning for all - since it is just a safety measure (and not a "wall hanging") you may only use the free ones, provided they are stronger enough (larger plug, larger screw); - or also check for the wall behind the ceiling surface to be iron-free (which means nothing actually, since you may still have plastic hoses and electric cables), in this case you may install a L-shaped bracket on it rather than using the provided system. I personally am skeptical for a glue to hold a critic weight, because what you are really sticking onto, is but a layer of wall painting or plaster: just not trustable, use plugs instead.
How. Do I remove the bracket that is inside. The. Closet but I. Think attached to wall. It’s just a white plate with no screws which I figure is just a cover. If so does it pop out? Appreciate advice, thanks. I’m moving from an apartment and like to take it with me.
Only you Dan answer that question. Ikea furniture kills several children every year due to them toppling on them. I always secure my furniture to the wall.
The wardrobe is not going anywhere when positioned. Make mark through fixing point into wall. Cover each mark with wooden square and secure to wall with plugs. Or use long length of wood to cover marks and secure to wall with plugs. Secure wardrobe to wood. Simple.........
Thank you for making this. Can’t believe ikea didn’t think through this problem themselves with any instructions or additional info about finishing boards.
Ikea can go 2 hell
Not an IKEA issue, you buy, take it home, assemble, install and wall attach how you see fit or pay for an IKEA installer to do all for you
No it’s ikeas fault
This is literally why i love youtube! I fitted these wardrobes today. And thinking. What is the best way to fit the wardrobes to the wall. Boom. The video i was after!
Tight and lace right time
Thank you for watching
Right place right time
It would be much easier to just put a solid narrow board (just like the skirting) across the whole unit. That way you can screw the board into the wood studs in the wall which would be much more reliable. And it makes the install easier since you don’t need any anchors. Then you can just drill from inside the wardrobe and put the screws in place. Much easier since you don’t have to line up the holes and much more secure. This is assuming you have a stud finder device and studs in the wall at some fixed distance as we do in most American homes at least.
Brill. Thanks
Wearing the shoes of an assembler, this is unsustainable. All you need is some elements behind the brackets. Moreover the back surface of Pax is not just even. Only fits one-shot personal diy experiences.
The guy has brick wall, no studs. I'd guess studs is really something US specific. From personal experience in Europe 80% of time you have brick or concrete wall.
What you say could work assuming the room you're install in has square and level floors and walls. Securing them in my 1890s build weatherboard house's wall was a whole different story, as distance between wardrobe and wall varies depending which side of the room you're in hehe
You can use drywall anchors and there is no need to line with studs, it's not holding the wardrobe weight, just prevents it from falling on you, and the drywall anchors are good enough for it
Thank you so much for the detailled tutorial. This was extremely helpful. We live in a rental and I didnt want to rip out the skirting so this is the perfect solution!
Thank you for watching
Am a PAX Installer in Melbourne/Australia & wall attach is a personal choice with 58cms depth but advisable with 35cm depth & 50cm doors/sliding doors
Can remove skirting board (SKB) and replace where required, cut the SKB to fit the frames where required, with SKB in situ-use a piece of wood over holes or full width of PAX, 20mm electrical pipe etc. Interesting video but not a way I would select. 3cms off wall option would be steel brackets on top. Many ways available
Thank you
I’ll keep that in mind. I’m getting more and more IKEA jobs for some reason.
Nice! Last time I just cut skirt sized pieces off from bottom of PAX frame. Fits perfectly against the wall and no need to cut skirt either.
Does this compromise the load-bearing ability of the wardrobe? The structural integrity? Trying to decide if i should do this but have a LOT of clothes 😂
@@Kiara_Wrestler I’m not engineer but I dont think so. Body is made of chipboard and if you have sharp blade holes are to look clean and pieces are easy to cut. Skirts are so thin that the modification/difference is actually very small. My closet is also full of stuff and still perfectly standing 😊
@@mikkorajala thanks for the reply!
Yeah right..........
My Victorian flat skirting boards are almost 40 mm thick.
I used mini space plugs instead. Held them in place with a little bit of double sided tape whilst screwing through from the wardrobe. A less invasive, more discreet and just as sturdy way of filling the void when skirting and/or picture rails are in situ.
You just ended a solid week and a half of stress for me. Thank you.
Thank you for watching
🤣
I know this is an older video and you won't see this! But thank you!
I seeeee youuuu hahah. Thank you for watching.
One of the best "how to" video`
Thank you for watching
Thanks a lot! Now I'll be able to do it myself. And it'll actually look good!
Thank you for watching
Still an awesome series! doing this with my husband, on our own, and there videos are so helpful! Thank you!
Thank you for watching
Its far easier if you put a full batten the same width as the wardrobe onto the wall instead of small bits of wood for 2 reasons...less chance of washers screws hitting screws on wood as you can have screws wider apart...you don't have to join wardrobe together first as batten already there, 1 wardrobe far easier to move than 2 wardrobes !
Your wardrobes are not plumb to the wall as your wood on the wall needs to be the same thickness as your skirting board...you could have problems with doors not staying open and draws sliding shut as wardrobe not vertical to wall.
What an excellent video. Clear, understandable and concise. Very helpful. Thank You.
Great tutorial. Especially the ‘how to compensate for skirting’. Another technique I’ve used (and picked up from shop fitters) is to cut the skirting board section out so that the unit sits flush with the wall. That said if you have carpet you’ll also need to remove the gripper rods underneath so that the unit will sit level.
So, why would you have to remove the gripper rods, if the carpet is already level with the gripper rods, as it should be?
Wow this is incredibly useful!! Thank you so much!
Thank you for watching
Thank you for this! I actually have baseboard heaters to contend with.. pushing out a full 4 inches. But this video is really helping me figure it out!
Thank you so much your videos were very informative and useful. I wanted to know if I can the attaching the wall part, I don’t want mine attached to the wall. Hopefully someone will be able to answer me.
We are getting our pax delivered today. I am terrified of this part. I don’t want to mess up the wall. Thanks for this helpful video.
Thank you! I needed to install a small PAX cabinet today and this tutorial was perfect.
Hi Peter! This is an exceptional video, thank you. We are trying to decide whether to remove the skirting and affix it directly to the wall (we installed this beautiful skirting a couple of years ago so I acknowledge my hesitation is not practical..) or do what you have done here but to a plaster wall. Do you have any suggestions about the gap to make it appear a little more aesthetically pleasing?
Absolutely brilliant video. Very well explained. Thank you.
Thank you for watching
thanks gr8 tutorial, what is the name of the t-shirt you're wearing so I can buy the same one to fix this wardrobe
very inspiring, just complicated and stiff, check this one
1) mount and join cabinets, tick the screw places on the wall
2) measure wall distance from each bracket
-- BECAUSE, they could each one be different
3) detache the cabinet and make holes in the wall, push plugs into
4) have already prepared at home, some wooden squares, 2 inches side, different heights
--- the squares have a hole inside: actually they are thickness nuts OK?
6) put as many nuts around the screw, so each thickness fills a specific gap (see #2)
7) screw in, just not that much
8) push cabinet onto the wall, and match the screws into the brackets
9) tighten and serve hot
So the secret is having those thickness nuts already with you then. Working to find a faster system to avoid detaching the cabinet each time, still no better idea. Being suggested about L-brackets (see Ikea Billy), I think it is excellent, but for really large gaps. Still prefer to use this method. Just asking, why shouldn't Pax have the same gap-filling screws of Besta and Platsa. Best luck
Can you please explain the purpose of the wooden piece? I have my PAX fixed to the wall in brick wall. There is about 1 or 2 cm distance between the wall and the wardrobe, but it seems to be fixed in place.
It's used to offset the cabinet from the wall the same distance as the baseboard. I think most people would cut the baseboard with an oscillating tool so the cabinet sits flush to the wall, though.
The wood could also be extended across the whole wall behind the wardrobes and fixed to the uprights that makeup paster board walls. Then you can carry on connecting the wardrobes more securly straight to the wooden battens and not worry about plasterboard issues.
thanks so much! Your videos are life savers.
Thank you for watching
Would you recommend adding a quarter sheet of plywood to the wall for additional support? that way the wardrobes would have a more sturdy back?
I don't thing is necessary to do that. Once Pax wardrobe frames assembled and attached to the wall they sturdy enough
Great job. vey useful
Can you easily move pax wardrobes into another bedroom?
I had this same issue, however I wanted to figure out another way I can anchor the wardrobe to the wall without drilling wood against the wall to secure the screws and close the gap. I got a longer and tad thicker screw that would close the gap and still reach the plastic anchor in the wall. I find that this is less minimal work and more hidden from the side without compromising the strength of the anchor from the wardrobe to the wall
That screw and plugs you using?
@@AlexBubus I have used M8 80mm lenght. About 45 mm is in the wall. I have very tilted walls so I cannot use any spacer…
How do i attach it to the cieling if I am placing it in the middle of my room as a divider?
You are the men ! Thank you !
Thank you for watching
Great how to video!
Thank you for watching
Very useful video! I neesed that in 2024 and PAX now is different. It includes wall mounts and its easier to do it.
Oh that’s really cool!
What do they look like?
I’ve ordered mine and will be delivered in a few wks(my preference) and trying to figure out via online manual, but they haven’t updated them and it’s still the old style 😔
Can nylon/plastic washers be used instead of wooden piece to fill the gap?
You my friend, are a God.
Thank you for the video, I wanted to know if the wood you used on the wall is mandatory ? Can I fix it directly without the wood ? ( I do have a baseboard as well maybe thinner than the one in this video )
If you want to doit without then you should remove skirting board and attach them without any gap. Depending oil the wall you will need correct wall plugs and screws
Where did you buy those plastic covers you used to hidw the silver metals? And what are they called so I can search them up?
They come with the PAX wardrobes
Is chipboard suitable for the wooden pieces that attach it to the wall, or do you recommend more solid wood?
WOOD, WOOD AND AGAIN ONLY WOOD.........
Great video. Do the screws come with the bracket can i ask? Or does the pax wardrobe only come with the brackets? Thanks
There is no screws or wall plugs for wall fixing included you need to get them extra.
Very useful video! Thank you very much
Thanks- that was very helpful.
Nicely done I was looking for a video like that cause i have this problem, and they come with doors so when you open the door they like about to fall 🤷🏽♀️
That's right if especially if you have mirrored hinged doors they are so heavy as soon you open all 4 doors all coming down. Thank you for watching.
Hello, I noticed your reply on this comment. I have two pax frames with hinged doors on each (total of 4 doors), if we follow your directions from this video is it likely to fall? Or is anchoring enough to sustain the wardrobe and 4 doors?
Anchoring is a must for these tall types of furniture and IKEA have warnings about it on every instruction sheet.
There have been deaths caused by unsecured furniture falling on children..........
Hi, thanks for the tutorial, excellent and easy to understand. Just wanted to ask if I do the same thing if I have skirting as well as picture rail. Also my wall is stud wall, please can you advise me. Thanks in advance.
Great instructions! Would you explain a bit further for this newbie (me) the role of the legs that you mention around 9:45? Thanks!
PAX wardrobes have adjustable legs at the front to make sure that you can level the wardrobe and/or distribute the load front to back. You do not want the front/back/side touching the floor only. The load should be evenly distributed. You may think all floors/walls are square, but they are often not even on new builds. Also floors can be uneven so you want to take up any gaps.
Is the wardrobe right up to wall? i.e. touching the skirting on the wall near the window?
Hi Peter
Your videos are super helpful! I need to attach the tall Pax wardrobes to a plasterboard wall. Would I use masonry screws for this? M8 or similar?
I read that someone mentions using packers as well as the above as the fixings can fail. What would you advise? I don't trust plasterboard fixings, after renovating our house I can see how simple & fragile things can be!
Hi. For plaster board wall you would need to get something like this amzn.to/3VyDZId and attach with them small pieces of wood (same as in the video) with these special wall plugs for plasterboard also you need the setting tool included with wall plugs. After you attach wardrobe to the wooden pieces not directly to the wall also make sure wardrobe is straight with the wall or leaning towards the wall before attaching.
@@PPFlatPack thanks so much! Super helpful. Thanks for taking the time to reply so quickly - it's appreciated 😊
I am installing this in my garage and the wall is the usual board and not drywall. What screws, washers and anchors do you suggest? This is a great video by the way.
Is there a way to close the gap with some gasket or something around? To avoid pests and insects going in
you can use expansion foam
Great video - thank you so much👍
Thank you for watching
Thank you - Do you ever cover up the gap between the wall and the side panel and if so how?
No I don't cover the gap. There is option to do without gap but you need to remove skirting board
I've done a similar thing with an Ikea kallax unit. I covered the gap with a strip of white PVC, stuck on with silicone. It has a flat profile against the wall and a rounded profile at the front, e.g. www.amazon.co.uk/Window-Door-Architrave-Plastic-White/dp/B00KRJK3JM. You can cut the plastic around the profile of the skirting with a jigsaw or coping saw. I also used off-cuts of skirting board as the packing, so it was the same thickness.
I screwed and plugged a 4x2 into my brick wall and connected my two 100cm Pax into that.
Choice is to scribe some wood to fill the gap perfectly which may involve extra filling and painting.
Or use some strips of painted finished wood or MDF wide enough to overlap and cover the gap.
Pin or glue to fit to the side of the wardrobe or glue a one cm square strip behind the wide strip and glue it to the back of the wardrobe.
Why did I do it like that........... I have huge two inch deep Victorian skirting boards which I'd rather not cut out as it then opens a whole can of worms especially with some lathe and plaster walls.
The next owners will probably thank me for leaving them in situ.
Thank you so much for making this video!!!!
Good idea but why not use one long wood board across so you can drill into the wall studs in several places and maybe not even need the wall anchors?
Absolutely.........
Just so long as you have studs to secure your 2000mm length of wood into, thereby allowing the Pax to be secured straight onto it.
The above scenario involved a brick wall which would require drilling and plugging the 2000mm wood to the wall before securing the Pax onto it.
Lack of a long length of wood makes smaller sections viable, that's why it's called DIY.
Other options are to remove the skirting completely and drill, plug and secure directly to brick wall.
Is it ok to use a strong adhesive to secure the wooden pieces to the wall? I’m not allowed to drill holes into the wall.
If you don't have another option than yes but make sure wardrobe leaning towards wooden pieces so it will not put any pressure on them.
Maybe you could add some trim over the gap?
Could you glue a wall skirt horizontal over all the holes an drill?
Thanks
Beautiful work. 👏👏👏
My units are assembled. Logistics prevented me from having them lashed to each other and the wall before adding all the drawers rods and shelves. Am I too late? Is it still possible to have them clamped together and attached to the wall?
I wish I saw this video before fitting the wardrobe. I’ve got a thick skirting board in my newly renovated house and after finishing the fitting of the wardrobe tried adjusting it a bit and the entire thing pulled itself out from the wall, plugs included. Any advice on how I could fix it with minimum drilling?
Just a thought on similar problems to this one.........
Pax was fixed to the wall straight into wall plugs without any wood spacers and have pulled out.
Remove screws and slide some skirting board thick section of wood VERTICALLY down behind Pax to the fixing lug.
Leave enough showing above Pax to allow you to drill, plug and screw wood into wall.
Secure Pax with screw through fixing lug into the wood.
Repeat above for each individual securing point.
Love your videos!...i actually have skirting on one side and then another side is the radiant heater unit!.. But I wish you could do one like this with an actual corner unit! I'm building a 5 unit PAX with right facing corner unit. I don't understand what the black piece that they want you to attach to the the frame that the corner unit intersects with is for. In the instructions it seems like they don't want the black piece to touch the wall, instead they want 4" of space, but that's impossible without having the black piece touch the wall. I keep getting 5"! Help! Or is this not a big deal?? Also, with having so many frames should I still join them all together first then move the whole piece or join them in pieces et. Join 3 on long wall then affix to wall then join corner unit and other unit to the others??
Just done this myself. I don’t think the black plastic piece is that important, it’s certainly nothing structural and my guess is that it is just to stop things falling down the gap in the corner between the two wardrobe sections. Mine fell off when I was maneuvering the two parts into a tight corner and so I left it off.
I have to fix a Pax wardrobe frame to a brick wall which has concrete instead of plaster. I know that on the other side of the wall is electric light wires. Could you tell me what Brand of detector you used to detect the wires, and would it be suitable the kind of wall I described. Regards.
You can check one I use in my amazon store (link in description) must say is not 100% and I'm also looking for new one there is later and cheaper model also from BOSCH mixed reviews hard to find something reliable in this area. Will be still looking if you see a new one in my latest videos I found one :)
Thank you
Would you install the PAX on cement floor or on plank floating laminate floor. We have the option to install PAX before flooring? Thanks
Do your floor first build the wardrobe and than skirting boards after so you can flash wardrobe with the wall
Which option would be better - removing the carpet grippers where the wardrobe sits (to stop it tilting forwards due to it sitting on them), or just placing a slab of MDF where the adjustable feet will go?
The latter, or use the feet which have screws to adjust the depth.
@@barriemoorcroft534 That works until your house is so old that the adjustable feet aren't enough lol, that's where the slabs come in.
Thank you!
But why not take trim off the bottom of the wall?
because this video would make no sense otherwise
Thank you Peter for sharing your experience via videos! May I kindly ask for your opinion on the option I am contemplating about. I consider attaching a 236x100x35 cm PAX wardrobe to a wall, where I have a wooden skirting board (1 cm thick; 6cm high). Instead of cutting the skirting board or putting "buffering" (pieces of wood in your example), why can't I just cut the bottom of each side panel (~1 cm deep and ~6 cm high), then slide the wardrobe towards the wall and finally attach it? To me, such cutting should not materially affect the rigidity of the wardrobe's construction + since the wardrobe will be installed in a dry closet, there should be no moisture getting into the (untreated) cutting areas at the bottom of the side panels. Thank you in advance for your reply.
Sound like a headache but I would rather cut off the exact amount of skirting board and slide wardrobe between instead of cutting wardrobe. If you decide to cut just make sure the skirting board is not taller than the bottom dividing panel otherwise you have to cut not just side panels at the bottom backside but the bottom dividing panel two. Another thing thickness of the skirting board can come across screws connecting side panels with bottom dividing panels not mentioning cutting have to be a straight line and depending on the saw you will use these materials easy to chip and can create zigzag as you cut. Asi mentioned too much hassle.
Excellent stuff
We have just built this but cant mount against wall as we have skirting and its a stud wall. Does this need to be done? Thanks
use a L bracket from the ceiling to the wall and have a good sleep
Hi, what size screws and rawl plugs did you use to attach the cupboard to the wall?
That depending on what kind of wall you have. Here I did with the Ikea wall plugs they have them in the store and I have here brick wall if I remember correctly. If you have plasterboard there is special wall plugs for that.
Any DIY store will supply matching screw and wall plug sets for a variety of wall constructions.
Thanks!
How much do you charge for these PAX installations? I just did mine myself and would much rather pay a skilled installer such as yourself if I ever have to do it again.
2 sliding doors wardrobe is about £200. Thank you for watching
Hello, thank you for the video. I didnt understand something: you dia a hole for the main screw (the one that comes from the inside of the wardrobe) or you just fix it to the wooden plate, that is atttached to the wall?
Thank you
The main screw will go into the wall, right? because it is longer than the thickness of the wooden plate. So woudnt you need to put a plug for the main screw?so the screw wont go directly to the wall? Thank you
Just to the wood
Omg where are you located...need a handy man?
Is it required to fix it to a wall? Or can i just leave it so it's movable? I wanna be able to clean the area at back part 🥺
My exact question, don’t want to attach mine to the wall 😢.
Absolutely fine.........
Until someone opens both doors, stands up on the edge of the base to reach up high and it falls forward.
Children have been crushed by toppling furniture and Ikea have warnings about it in their literature.
If it's not secured, then make sure you keep heavy items on the bottom to limit movement as a top heavy wardrobe will eventually come down.
Thanks for your Infos! I need to install and old cabinet that is very heavy and I want some of the weight to go into the wall instead onto the floor. Is this method good for my use to?
Depends how strong is the wall and what kind of bracket on the old cabinet
Thanks for your reply,. We would like to cover the gap rather than remove the skirting. Peter
There’s nothing you can do to cover the gap without cutting so part of the bottom to fit ur skirting. Else you want to fill the back with wooden board following the size you need
Once you’ve decided you’ll have your wardrobe 2cm away from the wall nothing really matters anymore. Having the gap is really ugly. In short: cut the skirting and make it flush with the wall.
May i know that size of the wall plugs you have used? I am not sure i need my usual 10x50 plugs for hanging these wood elements.
Wouldn't it be easier to cut a skirting board notch at the bottom of the wardrobe then it'll fit flush to the wall
Many people don’t want to remove skirting board and that why you can see here how is done. And yes it is easier to do it without if you have solid wall.
What if there’s carpet, and you can’t slide the joined wardrobes?
Don't slide joined wardrobes on the carpet. You have to do that one by one once you drill the wall and have everything ready can join the frames and after attach to the wall.
i just leant the wardrobe against the wall very slightly because of the skirting board and secured it with screws and the wardrobe tilt is barely noticeable. is this actually safe and can the four screws i used and the wall take the weight of the wardrobe and prevent it from falling over?
Do you know what kind of wall you fixed it to?
Joseph Ross plaster wall
@@brad1ey50 So, plaster walls are fairly tricky to fix anything securely to them if you use the wrong fixings, you may have seen photos online of people's new tv's in a heap on the floor after the wall fixings failed?! There are a few different options of plasterboard fixings available that would most likely be ok for holding a wardrobe to a wall but I would just be wary of putting them through too much stress, for example standing on the base to reach up and store things etc. If it really isn't much of a tilt then you should be fine, think of plasterboard like thick paper and if there's too much movement then it may tear/break. The best, most secure option I would recommend if you're at all worried is to find where the studs are and work out a way to attach the wardrobe to them, angle brackets fixed to the top work well. If, like some of my walls, there is brickwork behind the plasterboard simply drill into the brick and use longer screws with plasterboard specific fixings. Hopefully this helps
ok thanks
I did the same. This Works well if the skirting board is not very thick.
I'm doing the same thing with my wardrobe, but my wall scanner has pick up electric signal and metal, so scared to drill, can I used something like 'no more nail adhesive to attach the wood to the wall?
there is no real need to put a screw for each hole, and I don't think you get a warning for all
- since it is just a safety measure (and not a "wall hanging") you may only use the free ones, provided they are stronger enough (larger plug, larger screw);
- or also check for the wall behind the ceiling surface to be iron-free (which means nothing actually, since you may still have plastic hoses and electric cables), in this case you may install a L-shaped bracket on it rather than using the provided system.
I personally am skeptical for a glue to hold a critic weight, because what you are really sticking onto, is but a layer of wall painting or plaster: just not trustable, use plugs instead.
Hi , it is always neceesary to fix to the wall? I plan to install only shelves and I will not install any drawers Thanks
How. Do I remove the bracket that is inside. The. Closet but I. Think attached to wall. It’s just a white plate with no screws which I figure is just a cover. If so does it pop out? Appreciate advice, thanks. I’m moving from an apartment and like to take it with me.
Only you Dan answer that question. Ikea furniture kills several children every year due to them toppling on them. I always secure my furniture to the wall.
Basically, fixing s#itty design with another piece of s#it. Just use a coping saw to make it flush with the baseboard.
Interesting you just pay money for ..... why you didn't get some luxurious perfect peace of furniture? ;)
My Victorian skirting boards are 40mm thick and 300mm high so rather kills off that idea.........
What about cloaking the gap
Why don’t you just measure and just the skirting board to the right length
How do I get in contact with you as I’m thinking of buying some wardrobes and need your help?
lol
Nice space for spiders to breed
Moving wardrobes away from outside walls allow airflow and ventilation. Spiders will find a way to get there either way with or without the gap.
Haha that's terrible! That ugly gap at the wall. Who would want that?
Just use spacers bro😂
My worry is that as this is permanent you can’t move the wardrobe to clean behind or underneath.
correct
In that case you are better to purchase IKEA free standing wardrobes of which there are many........
Yÿy
Ever used a level and tape measure? Everything is on the piss mate.
tapes and measures are a perversion, not a human need
The wardrobe is not going anywhere when positioned.
Make mark through fixing point into wall.
Cover each mark with wooden square and secure to wall with plugs.
Or use long length of wood to cover marks and secure to wall with plugs.
Secure wardrobe to wood.
Simple.........
Very helpful, thank you 👍🙂