You guys asked for it...So here it is, Enjoy! If you missed the amp rack wiring video check it out here: ua-cam.com/video/UMAXMWmYX3o/v-deo.html Thanks guys!
Is there a difference between a built-in virtual dsp over a physical dsp? I ask because some head units will come with a dsp built in. It may be included to make head units more attractive to consumers, but is there drawbacks? How versatile is a built-in dsp compared to a dsp from AudioControl?
Hi Mark. I have to note to the relays diode. While a regular diode will do the job you have a high voltage drop by using one. Best is to use a zener diode. They have a lower voltage drop while having the same results. Zener diodes are more efficient than regular diodes.
@@anicetomaldonado I have not thought of relays for my amp systems, but I've been using relays for decades for lights, accessories, even making up my own turn signal converter for when the vehicle has amber turn signals and the trailer lamp is combined.
I got out of the car audio game for a while just because of unexpected challenges in life but now I'm back and realizing that I've missed out on so much in the past 7 years. Thank you so much for creating this channel and helping me get my spark and my enthusiasm about how awesome this stuff is back. I've used your videos religiously to create the system of my dreams and I can't thank you enough. Keep building ✌️
Think you've missed a bunch? My last install, including all three amps and EQ was done 20 years ago. And the equipment was from the late 80's. Sub amp finally lost a channel, thus the learning curve. Enjoying the heck out of it, but at almost 67, some of the work is not going to be easy!!!!🤔
As others have asked, how do we find the correct relay with the “spike/flyback” diode built in? Google-fu is failing to provide answers. I appreciate the videos, but it would be greatly helpful if you provided links to all parts you use when introducing something like this.
Been using relays since frying two decks in the late 80s. Newer equipment can draw less current than old school, but I still use them for future accessories as mentioned in this video.
I started using relays to turn on amps when I started installing multi amp systems 27 years ago. Nice to see you finally use 1 in a multi amp install!1
Great topics covered and the Crutchfield service is the best I have seen. Shame we don't have similar in Australia for our vehicle models! " I can't find anything", trying to pick my own setup online is challenging. Has been many years since I delved into car audio and it has progressed so much. Your builds are first class and has my mind racing for my own setup in my 2018 Isuzu MU-X "not even in the US that I can see" will keep following along, I have done a few upgrades in the past "did I say "many years" really is a couple of decades "what a thought"! Thanks for all the info.
I did this on my truck. Running a RF 400.4 and a RF 1200.1 with crossover network. The relay is triggered by the remote turn on and goes to the amps and xover. It also goes to a 100A continuous duty solenoid for ignition hot 6 way power/ground block for other items and another 6 way power/ground block for constant hot items. Works like a champ!
This video made me subscribe to the channel. I've been doing car audio builds since 1998, 99, and I'm impressed with the information and amount given to do things correctly in this video. It gave me some ideas for my current build I'm working on. Thanks a bunch!!👍
I am currently using a relay because I'm running three amps, LED rings, and a crossover.....and I fried the remote output circuit on my first head unit before I thought about adding the relay. But even after adding the relay I still didn't think about adding the diode until I watched this. Thanks for the advice.
Yo Mark i think it's awesome you're doing this project. It's funny, I'm doing a similar system in my Ram truck with 3 amps and 1 sub, mids/highs so these videos have been great, and very convenient timing as well😂😂especially coming from one of, if not, the best car audio channel on UA-cam.
Dude uou are awesome very articulate and explain things in a way they are easy to understand i have watched 4 or 5 of your videos today because you captured my attention and i learned alot so thank you very much. Alot of these things have been a mystery to me and after listening to others not to be mentioned ended up more comfused than when i started. You make it clear concise and factual these other dudes i dunno. I probably knew more than they did and even less after watching them stumble thru trying to explain something they knew little to nothing about. Good work man you are good at what u do and it shows.
I would recommend always making a habit of putting your switched load on pole 30 rather than 87. For a SPST, it makes no difference but if a SPDT is used it does. If the 12v source is hooked to pole 30, then the wire attached to pole 87a will be energized when the coil is at rest. While that wire can be left unhooked, it is a potential short since you have 12 volts running through the relay all the time. If you hook pole 87 to your 12 volt source, then you can hook 87a to ground. This will ground the load circuit on pole 30 when the relay is at rest. Once energized, pole 30 will see 12 volts as needed then return to ground once the relay is no longer energized. The difference is only whether you have a loose hot wire all the time on the switched side of the relay, or not. As I said, for a SPST, it makes no difference. But if you just get into the habit of always putting the switched load on pole 30, then interchanging between a SPST and an SPDT an almost non issue.
It's important to have good habits like this. There are too many "good enough" methods, and many are not actually good at all and result in car fires, failed equipment, poor sound, and many other faults and failures. Good job taking a moment to share, we need more of this.
This is a joke right? If you ground 87a and have 12v on 30 then in an off state the relay is shorting 12v lol. Unless you're talking about setting up the relay so that 87 is 12v and you ground 87a. Why would it be beneficial to ground a power wire at rest lol? I've been in car audio/aftermarket electronics for 5 years and I would never go through the effort of doing anything you just mentioned. If I'm not using 87a it's getting depinned, or cut short and taped with another wire on the relay with fabric tape on top making it all pretty.
@@johncox6666 pole 30 goes to the amp, 87 goes to 12v source. Grounding 87a just guarantees that there is no voltage on the circuit when not needed or wanted. You can just pull the wire or cut it short, but why not use it and ground the circuit if you have it. When using the ground at rest the circuit is dead-dead and there is zero chance of any stray voltage activating anything on that line. Dad was an electrical engineer, so i picked up a few things from him that come from that background. These are things he did as best practices, and generally apply to most applications even if not absolutely necessary. This is exactly how the electric choke on my old truck is wired. Just ground the circuit when not in use - No need not to.
@@mebordernoneya8484 its just time consuming and unnecessary imo. What's on the other side of the load? Ground. Which do you think provides better ground potential for current to flow? Backwards or forwards? If the engineers that made the product had any sense then power won't even be able to backfeed out the supply line even if the product does store power either with a battery, capacitors, etc. Maybe this logic made sense 30+ years ago but it doesn't now. Circuits can be made in a way that if they are storing power it's not flowing back out it's power input anyway so you applying ground is doing nothing. It's like when they say to battery reset your vehicle by pulling power and shorting the terminals together. Say it with me SoLiD STaTe MemOrY! Not gonna clear your codes lol. Not trying to hate, you do you. It's just the amount of times I've run into a permenant habit built upon one situation boggles my mind. Technician states they had one issue with x behavior of electricity so then going forward whenever they do that job again they jump through ten hoops to prevent one potential issue. When in reality that issue was either a complete fluke or they came to an incorrect conclusion but still worked around the problem and once again it is situational to that scenario. Be informed, fuse your shit, and know how to use your meter and everything's gonna be gravy baby.
1:48 I am surprised you anchored the top ground wire to the bottom power wire right before they go to fuse block bcuz it pulled the ground up too high making it not look like typical CAF quality. Looks like the ground wire would first need to be shortened by an inch. Then drill zip tie hole to secure it to amp rack right before fuse block. I know you know what I'm talking about. Regardless, I'm impressed as always! Very grateful for your YT channel! Wish my filming & editing skills were up to your quality. Oh and my build skills as well! LoL
Getting ready to install my most complicated system yet after about a decade of being out of the hobby. Your videos have been very helpful in getting ready to do it all the right way. One question: is there a specific reason that you use fuses on the large wire rather than circuit breakers. Obviously, if you install everything correctly, you shouldn't be blowing fuses. But it seems like a much nicer scenario to just reset a breaker than having to buy and replace the fuse.
The relay sockets are only good for certain applications. A spade connector is a much better way to install a relay with no breaks. The pre-wired socket has to have connections made to it. The spade connector wired to relay is direct, no breaks, no solder, no heatshrink, etc.
What if, I am using a stock factory radio and I have already tapped into it for the LOC? Do I just re tap into the remote wire from the LC5i Pro ? Can you please further explain this? Thanks ! Love the videos!!!
I've got those Knuconcepts triple shielded cables. They are the best. No interference. No noise. Love em. This idea with a relay is an awesome idea. I'll be keeping this in mind 👍👍
Hey great video but I have a serious question. In South Africa 6x9's are in every vehicle here. How can I tell if a 6x9 is really good quality vs a poor quality set. I know price plays a huge role but is price the only indicator of good quality.
When I read the title of the video, I thought it was turning on a relay with radio waves like frequency. So You could use what is in your car key and it emits a frequency to start our open the circuit.
Hi , very nice video. I Have a stereo that uses amplifiers . My remote wire from the stereo is not working (stays on always). Can I try to use the Switched Connection to power the amplifiers ? I can put a relay in this case.... 😄
Years ago a shop had told me that a remote lead was only ment to turn on 1 device any more then that you needed a relay. I know you're running alot of extras but at what point do you suggest a relay? # of amps or what not
When the needed current will exceed the rating of the head unit. Usually not needed for today's multiple amplifiers, but obviously in this video the circuit is for much more than that.
unrelated to this topic specifically, but I would love to see a comparison between a three-piece component system and a two-piece component system, and your opinion on whether the three piece is enough better to warrant the extra work and expense. I have a Lexus with a woofer, mid-range, and tweeter in each door and I'm wondering if I need to replace all three speakers or simply forgo the mid-range and go with a two-way component system.
Apparently my new Kia Niro is too new for Crutchfield since their search engine says haven’t got anything on my vehicle yet! That’s a real bummer! Hopefully they will get more on my new car soon?
Mark, would you be able to do a video regarding the "capacitor" installment between the main battery and amps? Is "capacitor" use on car audio system out of date? My car vehicle alternator is weak to charge the battery. I have 2004 STI (stock) with aftermarket amps. thanks.
Sounds like you need a new and/or larger alternator. Just my 2 cents. If it is outputting properly yet not charging the battery, you are drawing too much for it's capacity (Assuming a healthy battery anyway.). A capacitor won't help with that. Caps are made to help smooth out and support when the bass really hits. Another thing it could depend on is if things are wired properly. If your vehicle uses a battery current sensor to tell the computer your electrical load then commands the alternator based on that, it can cause issues if the sensor is bypassed. It will always command the alternator to output less than needed causing it to always be stressed. Anyone feel free to add/correct me if I'm wrong.
@@caddyguy5369 Thank you so much for the information. The issue is that my subaru mechanics do not recommend replacing an aftermarket alternator for my vehicle because they are unreliable. It seems there are no reputable larger aftermarket alternators in current market for my STI.
I’m trying to dive in to designing my own, auto system, with after make stereo and 3x10 subs, 4x tweeters, the front and rear speakers, and there also a center front speaker, question is how many amps do I need, and how would I wire everything exactly?
Where are you getting the relay with fuse and diode from? I can't find one, but have one without the diode in my near future orders for an update install. Or what value diode would I get to add to the existing wires of the relay socket? Thanks! Enjoying your videos!!!!
Hey Mark, Thank you for all your tutorials. You have inspired me to build this. so, I have a question. I am using a A2b for my 2018 ford raptor and will this be a lil different or would I take the factory remote turn on and take to the relay? Yes sir, I am over my head in this. but, I have always been interested in this kind of work. Also I am building your subwoofer box, using same subwoofers, same sub amp. also I am doing the door speakers. should I have a crossover or will my audiocontrol 810 been surfice? Again thank you so much for your tutorials
Hi!.. im looking for ideas on installing 3 amplifiers on the center of my SUVs roof.. over head along the center roof line but covered by covers. Can to send any actual ideas on even starting this project thanks.
Could I safely add a high capacity relay between my amps and battery? My vehicle can sit for 3 months at a time, and I've had problems with the amp capacitors draining the battery. I know I could install a disconnect, but I'd like convenience.
Hi Mark. Why are DSP's power+rem cables are twisted? Does it really help with noise cancellation? Does it ok to connect RCA near power lines like yours? Thanks.
Hey Mark, quick question. At 11 minutes when u talk about the white wire, could I run that white wire to my L.O.C. remote that is triggered from my speakers receiving power, GTO tech. (LC7i)? I have a factory head unit
I still get sad at night many years later having to sell off my JL-500.1 monoblock amp. Old school. Bridgeable down to 1/2 ohm stable running 2 HCCA duel Voice Coil subs in my hatchback. Got to love how priorities change however my child is old enough now and is gonna be in her teens soon so gonna get back into adding a system in my project car which stock came with 2 component sets already which will sound even better once I upgrade them and amplify. However as I want 2 keep the weight down I'm only gonna add a really nice hard hitting 12 so supplement overall quality of sound. Should be good for music as well as playing DVDs. Jurassic Park would certainly be sick to watch in a vehicle...
You guys asked for it...So here it is, Enjoy! If you missed the amp rack wiring video check it out here: ua-cam.com/video/UMAXMWmYX3o/v-deo.html Thanks guys!
Is there a difference between a built-in virtual dsp over a physical dsp? I ask because some head units will come with a dsp built in. It may be included to make head units more attractive to consumers, but is there drawbacks? How versatile is a built-in dsp compared to a dsp from AudioControl?
All this power will u need a extra battery
Hi Mark. I have to note to the relays diode. While a regular diode will do the job you have a high voltage drop by using one. Best is to use a zener diode. They have a lower voltage drop while having the same results. Zener diodes are more efficient than regular diodes.
Hello Mark,
Love what you do with your installs.
Just wondering would you custom build a box for a 10" JL Sub that would fit a VW Golf?
Thank you.
Where’s the rest of the build?
The relay idea is one of those "Why didn't I think of that" things that is so simple yet so elusive.
I've been using relays for about twenty years.
They are great for light bars, LEDs, amp fans, all kinds of things
@@anicetomaldonado I have not thought of relays for my amp systems, but I've been using relays for decades for lights, accessories, even making up my own turn signal converter for when the vehicle has amber turn signals and the trailer lamp is combined.
@@robertemmons2260 yeah, I don't use them for amps, rather the external fans one adds to an amp rack. I even used to have a 12 volt coffee maker.
@@anicetomaldonado where do I get that type of relays from
I got out of the car audio game for a while just because of unexpected challenges in life but now I'm back and realizing that I've missed out on so much in the past 7 years. Thank you so much for creating this channel and helping me get my spark and my enthusiasm about how awesome this stuff is back. I've used your videos religiously to create the system of my dreams and I can't thank you enough. Keep building ✌️
Think you've missed a bunch? My last install, including all three amps and EQ was done 20 years ago. And the equipment was from the late 80's. Sub amp finally lost a channel, thus the learning curve. Enjoying the heck out of it, but at almost 67, some of the work is not going to be easy!!!!🤔
As others have asked, how do we find the correct relay with the “spike/flyback” diode built in? Google-fu is failing to provide answers. I appreciate the videos, but it would be greatly helpful if you provided links to all parts you use when introducing something like this.
Been using relays since frying two decks in the late 80s. Newer equipment can draw less current than old school, but I still use them for future accessories as mentioned in this video.
I started using relays to turn on amps when I started installing multi amp systems 27 years ago. Nice to see you finally use 1 in a multi amp install!1
I just want to thank you! For all the years you’ve spent helping us on improving our skills!
Great topics covered and the Crutchfield service is the best I have seen. Shame we don't have similar in Australia for our vehicle models! " I can't find anything", trying to pick my own setup online is challenging. Has been many years since I delved into car audio and it has progressed so much. Your builds are first class and has my mind racing for my own setup in my 2018 Isuzu MU-X "not even in the US that I can see" will keep following along, I have done a few upgrades in the past "did I say "many years" really is a couple of decades "what a thought"! Thanks for all the info.
I did this on my truck. Running a RF 400.4 and a RF 1200.1 with crossover network. The relay is triggered by the remote turn on and goes to the amps and xover. It also goes to a 100A continuous duty solenoid for ignition hot 6 way power/ground block for other items and another 6 way power/ground block for constant hot items. Works like a champ!
This video made me subscribe to the channel. I've been doing car audio builds since 1998, 99, and I'm impressed with the information and amount given to do things correctly in this video. It gave me some ideas for my current build I'm working on. Thanks a bunch!!👍
So i have 2 questions
1. Where can i find said special relay??
2. What size fuse would you recommend for continuing the remote wire
Dude, you’re friggin awesome. I continue to learn so much from you. Thank you for creating great content and educating us. 💪🏽
I am currently using a relay because I'm running three amps, LED rings, and a crossover.....and I fried the remote output circuit on my first head unit before I thought about adding the relay. But even after adding the relay I still didn't think about adding the diode until I watched this. Thanks for the advice.
Crutchfield is awesome I've only been using Crutchfield for 10 plus years now.
Yo Mark i think it's awesome you're doing this project. It's funny, I'm doing a similar system in my Ram truck with 3 amps and 1 sub, mids/highs so these videos have been great, and very convenient timing as well😂😂especially coming from one of, if not, the best car audio channel on UA-cam.
Dude uou are awesome very articulate and explain things in a way they are easy to understand i have watched 4 or 5 of your videos today because you captured my attention and i learned alot so thank you very much. Alot of these things have been a mystery to me and after listening to others not to be mentioned ended up more comfused than when i started. You make it clear concise and factual these other dudes i dunno. I probably knew more than they did and even less after watching them stumble thru trying to explain something they knew little to nothing about. Good work man you are good at what u do and it shows.
You're awesome! I'm currently building a relay / switch panel and this video has been a great road map! Thank you!
Thanks Mark for 'relaying' that information!!👍🏻
😄👍 dad jokes in the house
What distribution block is that?
I would recommend always making a habit of putting your switched load on pole 30 rather than 87. For a SPST, it makes no difference but if a SPDT is used it does. If the 12v source is hooked to pole 30, then the wire attached to pole 87a will be energized when the coil is at rest. While that wire can be left unhooked, it is a potential short since you have 12 volts running through the relay all the time.
If you hook pole 87 to your 12 volt source, then you can hook 87a to ground. This will ground the load circuit on pole 30 when the relay is at rest. Once energized, pole 30 will see 12 volts as needed then return to ground once the relay is no longer energized. The difference is only whether you have a loose hot wire all the time on the switched side of the relay, or not.
As I said, for a SPST, it makes no difference. But if you just get into the habit of always putting the switched load on pole 30, then interchanging between a SPST and an SPDT an almost non issue.
It's important to have good habits like this. There are too many "good enough" methods, and many are not actually good at all and result in car fires, failed equipment, poor sound, and many other faults and failures. Good job taking a moment to share, we need more of this.
This is a joke right? If you ground 87a and have 12v on 30 then in an off state the relay is shorting 12v lol. Unless you're talking about setting up the relay so that 87 is 12v and you ground 87a. Why would it be beneficial to ground a power wire at rest lol? I've been in car audio/aftermarket electronics for 5 years and I would never go through the effort of doing anything you just mentioned. If I'm not using 87a it's getting depinned, or cut short and taped with another wire on the relay with fabric tape on top making it all pretty.
@@johncox6666 pole 30 goes to the amp, 87 goes to 12v source. Grounding 87a just guarantees that there is no voltage on the circuit when not needed or wanted.
You can just pull the wire or cut it short, but why not use it and ground the circuit if you have it. When using the ground at rest the circuit is dead-dead and there is zero chance of any stray voltage activating anything on that line.
Dad was an electrical engineer, so i picked up a few things from him that come from that background. These are things he did as best practices, and generally apply to most applications even if not absolutely necessary.
This is exactly how the electric choke on my old truck is wired. Just ground the circuit when not in use - No need not to.
Can you make a video on this?
@@mebordernoneya8484 its just time consuming and unnecessary imo. What's on the other side of the load? Ground. Which do you think provides better ground potential for current to flow? Backwards or forwards? If the engineers that made the product had any sense then power won't even be able to backfeed out the supply line even if the product does store power either with a battery, capacitors, etc. Maybe this logic made sense 30+ years ago but it doesn't now. Circuits can be made in a way that if they are storing power it's not flowing back out it's power input anyway so you applying ground is doing nothing. It's like when they say to battery reset your vehicle by pulling power and shorting the terminals together. Say it with me SoLiD STaTe MemOrY! Not gonna clear your codes lol.
Not trying to hate, you do you. It's just the amount of times I've run into a permenant habit built upon one situation boggles my mind. Technician states they had one issue with x behavior of electricity so then going forward whenever they do that job again they jump through ten hoops to prevent one potential issue. When in reality that issue was either a complete fluke or they came to an incorrect conclusion but still worked around the problem and once again it is situational to that scenario. Be informed, fuse your shit, and know how to use your meter and everything's gonna be gravy baby.
Please post link with the relay that has the diode already in it
Relays have always confused me, this helped a lot. Thanks.
Please link the fuse with
Diode you ordered. Having a hard time finding it
Wow, I have never seen a relay with a built in fuse before? Now I’m going to have to go hunting for those!
I love this! This is all very useful information. Can we have the links to the parts used? That would be awesome!
Great job Mark, as always. Very informative and well articulated.
1:48 I am surprised you anchored the top ground wire to the bottom power wire right before they go to fuse block bcuz it pulled the ground up too high making it not look like typical CAF quality. Looks like the ground wire would first need to be shortened by an inch. Then drill zip tie hole to secure it to amp rack right before fuse block. I know you know what I'm talking about. Regardless, I'm impressed as always! Very grateful for your YT channel! Wish my filming & editing skills were up to your quality. Oh and my build skills as well! LoL
Great video as always, could you provide a link to the relays you keep on hand?
Getting ready to install my most complicated system yet after about a decade of being out of the hobby. Your videos have been very helpful in getting ready to do it all the right way. One question: is there a specific reason that you use fuses on the large wire rather than circuit breakers. Obviously, if you install everything correctly, you shouldn't be blowing fuses. But it seems like a much nicer scenario to just reset a breaker than having to buy and replace the fuse.
do you have a link for your fuse blocks
Did you ever say which relay you went with that had the built-in diode?
My Christmas dream is to just give my car to this guy for a day. I'm sure it'll sound much better.
Please give use the link to the spst with diode you will use
Did you post the part # for the relay you ordered with the internal diode? Having trouble finding one for my build. Thanks
It's listed on the relay in the video as well as company name.
Mark your videos are always awesome brother.
Sir, you did not mention the diode number you suggested for the EMF, please advise?
OMG nice setup, you should put this in my gmc. Love your videos
Any links for a relay with a diode?
What is the diode size we need to make it ourselves
What size diode shod be used on 30A-40A four pin relay and socket??.
First comment! Love the content I’ve always used your builds for ideas! Currently building the boom box with older speaker I have laying around :)
I'm not gonna lie I wish you were closer to help me install my system. I'm feeling a little overwhelmed lol. And yes I would pay you lol
The relay sockets are only good for certain applications. A spade connector is a much better way to install a relay with no breaks. The pre-wired socket has to have connections made to it. The spade connector wired to relay is direct, no breaks, no solder, no heatshrink, etc.
See your work happy my heart
Hey, could you post a link for the fused distribution block (the one that the relay is connected to)
Thanks for the video Mark. Another request for a link to the relay W/fuse holder please. Thank you for all you do.
What if, I am using a stock factory radio and I have already tapped into it for the LOC? Do I just re tap into the remote wire from the LC5i Pro ? Can you please further explain this? Thanks ! Love the videos!!!
@caraudiofabrication what distribution blocks are you using?
I've got those Knuconcepts triple shielded cables. They are the best. No interference. No noise. Love em. This idea with a relay is an awesome idea. I'll be keeping this in mind 👍👍
Great work as always!
No other channel like this✌❤🇸🇷
Hey great video but I have a serious question. In South Africa 6x9's are in every vehicle here. How can I tell if a 6x9 is really good quality vs a poor quality set. I know price plays a huge role but is price the only indicator of good quality.
When I read the title of the video, I thought it was turning on a relay with radio waves like frequency. So You could use what is in your car key and it emits a frequency to start our open the circuit.
Hi , very nice video. I Have a stereo that uses amplifiers . My remote wire from the stereo is not working (stays on always). Can I try to use the Switched Connection to power the amplifiers ? I can put a relay in this case.... 😄
I used relays for a lot of accessories in my time but never have I thought I'm going to use a relay for a remote turn on for power for my amp
Years ago a shop had told me that a remote lead was only ment to turn on 1 device any more then that you needed a relay. I know you're running alot of extras but at what point do you suggest a relay? # of amps or what not
any more than two amps running off a remote line and you need a new source to tap for power
When the needed current will exceed the rating of the head unit. Usually not needed for today's multiple amplifiers, but obviously in this video the circuit is for much more than that.
unrelated to this topic specifically, but I would love to see a comparison between a three-piece component system and a two-piece component system, and your opinion on whether the three piece is enough better to warrant the extra work and expense.
I have a Lexus with a woofer, mid-range, and tweeter in each door and I'm wondering if I need to replace all three speakers or simply forgo the mid-range and go with a two-way component system.
Why didn't I think of this before 🤦 thank you!
Hi sir can we know the value of a diode that we use in a relay. Thanks in advance
what is the number of the diode?
Are there SPST relays with both the fuse and diode? I'm not seeing any.
Where can I find that fuse block? I can’t seem to come up with one that has two separate inputs.
Check out show sponsor KnuKonceptz.
Where did you get that fancy fuse
Block
Can I get a link for the relay with a built in diode thanks
can you add a link to a ready to go Relay?
Apparently my new Kia Niro is too new for Crutchfield since their search engine says haven’t got anything on my vehicle yet! That’s a real bummer! Hopefully they will get more on my new car soon?
Hey mark! Can we get a link for the relay with built in flyback diode (spike suppression diode/ freewheel diode) cant find them anywhere!
So are you going to have a switch to turn on led or fans
Or is everything going to turn on when you turn on your radio
I'll be using the radio. When radio is on everything else comes on, although you could use a switch too. Just depends on the goals of your application
Mark, would you be able to do a video regarding the "capacitor" installment between the main battery and amps? Is "capacitor" use on car audio system out of date? My car vehicle alternator is weak to charge the battery. I have 2004 STI (stock) with aftermarket amps. thanks.
Sounds like you need a new and/or larger alternator. Just my 2 cents.
If it is outputting properly yet not charging the battery, you are drawing too much for it's capacity (Assuming a healthy battery anyway.). A capacitor won't help with that. Caps are made to help smooth out and support when the bass really hits.
Another thing it could depend on is if things are wired properly. If your vehicle uses a battery current sensor to tell the computer your electrical load then commands the alternator based on that, it can cause issues if the sensor is bypassed. It will always command the alternator to output less than needed causing it to always be stressed.
Anyone feel free to add/correct me if I'm wrong.
@@caddyguy5369
Thank you so much for the information. The issue is that my subaru mechanics do not recommend replacing an aftermarket alternator for my vehicle because they are unreliable. It seems there are no reputable larger aftermarket alternators in current market for my STI.
I’ve used Relays for almost every build I’ve ever done.
I wish I could afford you.
Your freaking awesome
Thank you for teaching and sharing. What is the relay model number and where I can buy?
I’m trying to dive in to designing my own, auto system, with after make stereo and 3x10 subs, 4x tweeters, the front and rear speakers, and there also a center front speaker, question is how many amps do I need, and how would I wire everything exactly?
Where are you getting the relay with fuse and diode from? I can't find one, but have one without the diode in my near future orders for an update install. Or what value diode would I get to add to the existing wires of the relay socket? Thanks! Enjoying your videos!!!!
in the video you mention that you were waiting for a relay with a diode already in it do you have the link for that ?
Anyone have a like with a relay with a diode built in?
Hey Mark, Thank you for all your tutorials. You have inspired me to build this. so, I have a question. I am using a A2b for my 2018 ford raptor and will this be a lil different or would I take the factory remote turn on and take to the relay? Yes sir, I am over my head in this. but, I have always been interested in this kind of work. Also I am building your subwoofer box, using same subwoofers, same sub amp. also I am doing the door speakers. should I have a crossover or will my audiocontrol 810 been surfice? Again thank you so much for your tutorials
i have 2 of the same fuse blocks as you,,,where can i get the ground link terminals for the ground side ?
thanks for the video it really helps.
what a nice content! love it!
Can you post how to wire the diode with the relay
Hi!.. im looking for ideas on installing 3 amplifiers on the center of my SUVs roof.. over head along the center roof line but covered by covers. Can to send any actual ideas on even starting this project thanks.
This is why I have a phoenix gold dd10.
Could I safely add a high capacity relay between my amps and battery? My vehicle can sit for 3 months at a time, and I've had problems with the amp capacitors draining the battery. I know I could install a disconnect, but I'd like convenience.
I can’t find a 12v fused diode protected relay anywhere. Can you post a link to the ones you use?
@Mark can you share the link for the relay with the built in diode?
im wondering the same thing.
Can you post a link to the relay with the built in diode
Hi Mark. Why are DSP's power+rem cables are twisted? Does it really help with noise cancellation? Does it ok to connect RCA near power lines like yours? Thanks.
What size diode was used??
If I got that blue sea fuse block does the wire ran to the battery need to be fused as well?
Where did you get the small fuse block I like that
Possible to get a link for the relay with the diode?
Just curious on what board you used that everything is screwed to
ABS sheet, 1/4 inch thick
@@CarAudioFabrication awesome thank you
Does Crutchfield cover UK/European cars?
Car audio fabrication.... can I get a link for that same solenoid please sir
Hey what kind of fuse block are you using 🤔
I probably should’ve had that diode for my speaker pop
Hey mark do you have a link to the exact relay you used I’d appreciate it a lot
Hey Mark, quick question. At 11 minutes when u talk about the white wire, could I run that white wire to my L.O.C. remote that is triggered from my speakers receiving power, GTO tech. (LC7i)? I have a factory head unit
What type jigsaw blades are you using to cut abs sheet?
I still get sad at night many years later having to sell off my JL-500.1 monoblock amp. Old school. Bridgeable down to 1/2 ohm stable running 2 HCCA duel Voice Coil subs in my hatchback. Got to love how priorities change however my child is old enough now and is gonna be in her teens soon so gonna get back into adding a system in my project car which stock came with 2 component sets already which will sound even better once I upgrade them and amplify. However as I want 2 keep the weight down I'm only gonna add a really nice hard hitting 12 so supplement overall quality of sound. Should be good for music as well as playing DVDs. Jurassic Park would certainly be sick to watch in a vehicle...