If you are interested in the wire cover I made I now have them here - www.caraudiofabrication.com/product-page/caf-wire-caddy-for-vxi-amplifiers 🔊 Need power wire, signal wire, or power distribution parts? Check out KnuKonceptz! Great gear at an amazing value! ✔️ www.knukonceptz.com/ Thank you to KnuKonceptz for being a sponsor of the channel 🔨 Related tools and materials - CAF Wire Cover for VXi Amps - www.caraudiofabrication.com/product-page/caf-wire-caddy-for-vxi-amplifiers KnuKonceptz 4 Gauge OFC - amzn.to/3UdvDap KnuKonceptz Power & Ground Distro Block - amzn.to/3UdvDap ⭐ Power & Ground Quick Disconnect - amzn.to/3WdoF80 Quick Connector Kit - amzn.to/4dhDLiP Quick Connector Crimper - amzn.to/3Uj6lI7 Wire Ferrules - amzn.to/49NLdPS RCA Covers - amzn.to/3xTt462 As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases
What if I use aluminium plate instead of plastic board like the one you used? Is there a problem if the board is conductive? It would simplify grounding as every amp/dsp could just be grounded to the plate, and then the plate could be grounded to the chasis/battery with one cable. Reason I consider aluminium plate is because i need the amp rack to be easily movable (out from the car) because it will sit on top of my spare tyre compartment. Plastic need to be very thick (read: expensive) to be stiff enough, wood can catch fire.
I can never get enough of watching Mark's videos! So professionally done, so clearly explained, such a classy fit and finish. This, my friends, is what is called premium installation! Way to go Mark!
I don't think I could have said that any better. When you find someone who REALLY KNOWS what they are doing you realize the value of a quality installation.
Making your audio setup like this is such a pain because of all the planning. It also ends up being more expensive due to all the small items that add up. BUT let me tell you, it is 1000% worth it. It's also very satisfying when you're finished!
Agree been adding little ground blocks but I ordered the wrong one thoight i needed 120 I need 100. LGD are not necessary I guess for every vehicle I stay in contact with kicker and they said I will not need one for my car luckily I asked before purchasing. Just got the ABS and now I’m planning where everything will go it’s gonna be hard bc I don’t have the height of the amp I’m going to add on my planning board and it’s a little difficult because it’s going under my seat. I’m gonna go with a DSP as well maybe NVX audio control is well worth it but out of my budget range. And I’m still debating to add a mono amp under the other seat but I already have a 5 channel so I’d basically have to buy a 4 then a mono running a 5 channel and a mono sounds stupid 😂 sorry for the rant
@@thatguykai479 it's not stupid. Even when doing this yourself, it's an expensive hobby. I used an older amp in my setup because I didn't want to tack on a other $500 for a brand new amp. However, I will say that the best way to do this to keep everything clean looking is to wait to purchase everything you need/want before starting the project. If it's expensive just wait and save for everything. Edit: it actually helps it look clean AND can make the planning and project easier. For instance, having all the same brand of amps makes it easier to route the wiring because all the terminals face the same direction.
I know really want to make a nice looking one but then you need to drop a lot more money for looks what I’m really never gonna show off so then what’s the point
Great job. I really enjoy your posts. They are so informative. They have made me take my personal installations on my vehicles to a more professional state. Thanks
I bought these speakers primarily based on this video. A week later, i had to order the BasX A3. My receiver could not keep these fed well enough. The rest of my 7.1 surround is Klipsch with an SVS PB-1000 PRO sub. The highs really float in space incredibly. I love the more neutral tone of these compared to my 24 year old Klipsch RF3 towers these replaced. I really enjoy this real-world format of a review. You still provide plenty of info for me to make an informed decision. Thank you.
Absolutely Beautiful wiring job!! Every detail including the use of ferrules on each wire was much appreciated.. This instructional video is something many car audio guys need.. Many guys don't get trained sufficiently on how to wire 12V systems properly.. Great Job!! Please keep these coming.. Cheers!!
I love watching this channel because it truly shows what experience, thoughtful planning, and the right tools can accomplish. Keep up the beautiful work Mark!
dude, i'm from Russia and i appreciate what you're doing! High quality content, keep going and best wishes to your business! Another usage of such system is car trade-in. Do it at the initial installation and you can easily trade-in your car and take-off your amplifier build to the new car in a second. Here in Russia dealership does not count custom audio for cashback. You can leave it for free or remove and return to factory setup. I think i'll do same build next summer for myself.
I was once thinking of something modular like this and you made it a reality and showed me it's possible! Great work can't wait to see it all in action
I'd like to see the final installed product. Great video. Wish I knew what most of those things do. Way more advanced than your older quick disconnect system.
Great video! I would put some foam in the concealing box squeeze the wires just a bit to prevent buzzing sounds. Might not be necessary but just in case..
Awesome rack setup Mark, quality video skills. I would like to ask to recommend using a stepper drill bit to tidy up the edge of sub cable hole, for a smooth finish. I’m a a fan, love your work.
Been waiting for this build to finish can’t wait to see the final product as you give me great ideas for my own amp rack 5 channel build you are a master craftsman in the audio industry any time I’m recommended anyone it’s you.
I love all of your videos because you challenge everyone to take their installs to another level. With that said, even though there was a ton of effort to show all your wiring and have it "neat" i would encourage to condense an install like this by hiding all of the wiring. I LOVE that youre using deutsch connectors and making it all quick-disconnect!
I got a lot of cars... but i can only drove one at a time. So this would be perfect for me! I will just plug in my set-up on the car i will be using and transfer it as i wish!!!!! Thanks so much for making this video!❤
When doing the Deutsch connectors, it's a good idea for the hot side of the connection to be female, so that it is harder to touch a hot wire if the connector is disconnected.
Have one question. The extra box for the extra wires. When the bass kicks in, would it not be smart to fill it with some sort of cushion or a soft foam to keep them from rattling? Love the idea but I'm also the type for detail. A small tapping or rattle could just distort the quality of sound.
ha! this is more or less exactly the same idea i had with my latest build. The car aint worth more then the stereo, so, i did everything on a new "wall" in the trunk, amps and dsp, so that everything is "easy" removable when i sell the car and just lift it over to the next car. This is the way im gonna do all builds in the future.
Where can I find the turning wheel at 11:15 and how is it called??? asking for a friend 😂I'm sure you have mentioned it on other videos but I don't know how to even search for it. I mean my friend... he doesn't know...
Really nice amp rack. I bought a big plug for my own amp rack, and i wanna ask, is it safe to connect/disconnect the power plug without taking off the ground terminal on the battery? Couldn't it create a spark, if I've got a power capacitor installed on the amp rack?
Nice!! Is it okay to add battery terminals that have a multiple post and add your amp wires, LED wires and such or is it best to set up a Bluesea fuse box set up for example? I'm thinking the battery terminals with multiple post would be fine, as long as all of your wire harness have a fuse in them , correct?
Here to figure out how you turned the rca connections into a DT style connector. Having to unplug every rca + unscrew every set screw/terminal screw + main power/ground on the BACK of the board makes removing my amp rack a 20 minute task, reinstalling ususally takes longer. Im using 1/2×15×22" HDPE sheet with tapped holes for amp screws/distro blocks
I’m designing a similar setup for my 24 Chevy Silverado. For the Fix 86, can you please explain why you went with the turn on lead to it rather than using dc offset to turn on the unit? You can still use the turn on out to the amplifier correct? Or did you just want them all to turn on/off at the switch?
Do you sell complete racks? It would be cool if I could buy a custom rack like this. I would share my vehicle so you could match connectors and wire length.
Does the Fix 86 allow factory 911 integration and steering wheels controls? I have the DSR-1 in my Focus, it does that. I am looking for something to upgrade my new RAM truck with the factory uConnect system with active noise cancelling.
I follow a lot of your awesome informative videos. Question, and not directly in line with this one: If you have a standard 2-way crossover with a high pass and low pass but with the high pass (which is meant for a tweeter) connected to a full range capable driver like a full range 2.75" speaker. And you connect an in-line capacitor made for full range frequencies, will it bypass the tweeter frequency allowing full range frequencies? My reason for asking is because I am trying to share the 2 rear channel on a 4 channel amplifier between a 3.5" woofer and a 2.75" woofer, trying to get mid/full range frequencies from both. And I can't find a dual midrange pass crossover! Any input is greatly appreciated! Thanks!!!
I've always wanted to make a setup quickly removable as I've got multiple identical vehicles - I had the subwoofer side figured out but using the deutsch connectors to either provide input/output or a straight pass through when not in use is genius! On a more simple setup with an aftermarket head unit (think 90's sindle din stuff) would a guy even need the load generators or is that more for the integrated "smart" setups in new vehicles?
Hey where did you get the oem harness connectors from that you can wire up manually. I know you can buy a harness but you have blank harness connectors That I’m interested in
New to the car audio. Im currently working on replacement my OEM speakers, with no additional amps/sub. But ive been brainstorming the possibilities of having a removing unit for the amp/sub if i was to fit it in my trunk, just like this cause there may be some instances for i require more space. This definitely solves that issue or will inspire me to make this kinda build eventually. Do you guys have an instruction for that cable line coming from the OEM head unit to the back.? I may need to do that line/cable work before attaching this to a removable unit like you did here.
Great video, really helpful! For that inline fuse connector going to the Fix86, was that 8 AWG wire? Just curious, because using a wire size calculator, I showed the largest "necessary" wire was 25AWG, but the smallest I was able to find was 18AWG in a 5-pack--and not to mention that the fuse block you're using only steps down to 8 AWG. I just want to be sure I would purchase an inline fuse holder that works with the power distribution block. And that high-power quick disconnect you show in this video seems to not be available anymore. Is there any alternative you have come across? I've done some searching, but not finding anything as neat as the one you have used. That's too bad. And regarding the HDPE plastic mounting panel: what are your thoughts on plexiglass or acrylic in place of HDPE or ABS? I'm thinking of purchasing a pre-finished Sub box, and plexiglass, being clear, would look nice mounted to a pre-finished box--but I don't know if plexiglass is more brittle than HDPE, possibly causing installation/mounting issues. Thanks again for this excellent video! Oh, and very nice work!
OK, I actually did find a Scosche 4AWG connector that also has a connection for a remote sensing wire on Crutchfield (Scosche UAKP4G) that can replace than NVX high-current quick disconnect you have in your video which seems like a rather nice replacement.
Would love for Mark to upgrade my A91 Supra sound system. The factory system is one of the worst ive heard and to think its labeled as a JBL premium smh. Would love to do a similar setup as this install with the JL 5 channel, replace speakers and try and utilize the factory sub location or remove it and build custom enclosure in same place for single JL W6
Got new car can’t use my old head unit. The entire front dash needs to come out to get to the factory unit. What a pita!! I’ve done this myself for me & friends for 25 years. My new dash is the most time consuming I’ve ever seen. I’m talking probably a 10hr job
Those fuse blocks are total junk! The pair I had fell apart just trying to get everything mounted and put in them. Had to get the beefier ones and they worked out much better.
I am seeking a solution where the car speaker initially runs from the factory output signal, but switches to the amplifier output once the car engine starts. This setup aims to conserve the car battery by preventing it from draining power when the car is not running, while still allowing me to enjoy music from the factory radio, as it consumes less power.
If you are interested in the wire cover I made I now have them here - www.caraudiofabrication.com/product-page/caf-wire-caddy-for-vxi-amplifiers
🔊 Need power wire, signal wire, or power distribution parts? Check out KnuKonceptz! Great gear at an amazing value!
✔️ www.knukonceptz.com/
Thank you to KnuKonceptz for being a sponsor of the channel
🔨 Related tools and materials -
CAF Wire Cover for VXi Amps - www.caraudiofabrication.com/product-page/caf-wire-caddy-for-vxi-amplifiers
KnuKonceptz 4 Gauge OFC - amzn.to/3UdvDap
KnuKonceptz Power & Ground Distro Block - amzn.to/3UdvDap
⭐ Power & Ground Quick Disconnect - amzn.to/3WdoF80
Quick Connector Kit - amzn.to/4dhDLiP
Quick Connector Crimper - amzn.to/3Uj6lI7
Wire Ferrules - amzn.to/49NLdPS
RCA Covers - amzn.to/3xTt462
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases
What gauge wire did you use for your power & ground going to DSP?
What if I use aluminium plate instead of plastic board like the one you used? Is there a problem if the board is conductive? It would simplify grounding as every amp/dsp could just be grounded to the plate, and then the plate could be grounded to the chasis/battery with one cable. Reason I consider aluminium plate is because i need the amp rack to be easily movable (out from the car) because it will sit on top of my spare tyre compartment. Plastic need to be very thick (read: expensive) to be stiff enough, wood can catch fire.
I do airport trips, I want to add, amplifier, midrange and sub with disconnecting from the car factory system...
I can never get enough of watching Mark's videos! So professionally done, so clearly explained, such a classy fit and finish. This, my friends, is what is called premium installation!
Way to go Mark!
Wow, thank you!
I don't think I could have said that any better. When you find someone who REALLY KNOWS what they are doing you realize the value of a quality installation.
Making your audio setup like this is such a pain because of all the planning. It also ends up being more expensive due to all the small items that add up. BUT let me tell you, it is 1000% worth it. It's also very satisfying when you're finished!
Agree been adding little ground blocks but I ordered the wrong one thoight i needed 120 I need 100. LGD are not necessary I guess for every vehicle I stay in contact with kicker and they said I will not need one for my car luckily I asked before purchasing. Just got the ABS and now I’m planning where everything will go it’s gonna be hard bc I don’t have the height of the amp I’m going to add on my planning board and it’s a little difficult because it’s going under my seat. I’m gonna go with a DSP as well maybe NVX audio control is well worth it but out of my budget range. And I’m still debating to add a mono amp under the other seat but I already have a 5 channel so I’d basically have to buy a 4 then a mono running a 5 channel and a mono sounds stupid 😂 sorry for the rant
@@thatguykai479 it's not stupid. Even when doing this yourself, it's an expensive hobby. I used an older amp in my setup because I didn't want to tack on a other $500 for a brand new amp. However, I will say that the best way to do this to keep everything clean looking is to wait to purchase everything you need/want before starting the project. If it's expensive just wait and save for everything. Edit: it actually helps it look clean AND can make the planning and project easier. For instance, having all the same brand of amps makes it easier to route the wiring because all the terminals face the same direction.
I know really want to make a nice looking one but then you need to drop a lot more money for looks what I’m really never gonna show off so then what’s the point
This man loves his router :)
Great job. I really enjoy your posts. They are so informative. They have made me take my personal installations on my vehicles to a more professional state. Thanks
Glad to help!
I like the concept of using the same plugs for easily switching the wiring. SMD magnetic lugs are another great option for easy removal of sub boxes.
The quality of this work is truly second to none. I'd love to bring my 24 Silverado to Mark from Texas for a custom system.
I bought these speakers primarily based on this video. A week later, i had to order the BasX A3. My receiver could not keep these fed well enough. The rest of my 7.1 surround is Klipsch with an SVS PB-1000 PRO sub. The highs really float in space incredibly. I love the more neutral tone of these compared to my 24 year old Klipsch RF3 towers these replaced.
I really enjoy this real-world format of a review. You still provide plenty of info for me to make an informed decision. Thank you.
Absolutely Beautiful wiring job!! Every detail including the use of ferrules on each wire was much appreciated.. This instructional video is something many car audio guys need.. Many guys don't get trained sufficiently on how to wire 12V systems properly.. Great Job!! Please keep these coming.. Cheers!!
I love watching this channel because it truly shows what experience, thoughtful planning, and the right tools can accomplish. Keep up the beautiful work Mark!
I 2nd that thought.
You do phenomenal work,Mark. Love your videos. Very informative.
dude, i'm from Russia and i appreciate what you're doing! High quality content, keep going and best wishes to your business!
Another usage of such system is car trade-in. Do it at the initial installation and you can easily trade-in your car and take-off your amplifier build to the new car in a second. Here in Russia dealership does not count custom audio for cashback. You can leave it for free or remove and return to factory setup.
I think i'll do same build next summer for myself.
Appreciate that! It's good to know this is valuable across the globe.
Using the Deutsch connectors for easy removal and reversion to stock is awesome!
I was once thinking of something modular like this and you made it a reality and showed me it's possible! Great work can't wait to see it all in action
Nicely done, quick connections are nice. I take it those are Deutsch connectors. Very clean with the wiring.
This is one hell of a system looks so clean and professional great job!!
Your work is like a art project. Very nice!!
I'd like to see the final installed product. Great video. Wish I knew what most of those things do. Way more advanced than your older quick disconnect system.
Thank you, great idea!
I just put a 4channel amp into my car, with an ISO connector to plug into the stock wiring.
Great video! I would put some foam in the concealing box squeeze the wires just a bit to prevent buzzing sounds. Might not be necessary but just in case..
Wow, is like you make this video just for me, i was about to try to do this but a million times more complicated, thanks Mark
I LOVE having modular components with compatible plugs.
Awesome rack setup Mark, quality video skills. I would like to ask to recommend using a stepper drill bit to tidy up the edge of sub cable hole, for a smooth finish. I’m a a fan, love your work.
I love your designs it’s amazing
This is such an awesome idea. Such a clean and nice install. First time I have seen deutsche connectors used for audio and I think its a great idea😊
So good.
Watching from Brazil.
Been waiting for this build to finish can’t wait to see the final product as you give me great ideas for my own amp rack 5 channel build you are a master craftsman in the audio industry any time I’m recommended anyone it’s you.
Same here. Would love to see the final installation with battery hookup.
I love all of your videos because you challenge everyone to take their installs to another level. With that said, even though there was a ton of effort to show all your wiring and have it "neat" i would encourage to condense an install like this by hiding all of the wiring. I LOVE that youre using deutsch connectors and making it all quick-disconnect!
I got a lot of cars... but i can only drove one at a time. So this would be perfect for me!
I will just plug in my set-up on the car i will be using and transfer it as i wish!!!!!
Thanks so much for making this video!❤
Unreal... 😂
I pulled off an install like this in like 2007ish...
Certainly not this high end, but it worked.
This one was very nicely done. 👍
Needs a quick round-over on that sub speaker hole to be perfect. 😎😍
I'll hit it with a countersink bit. Good call!
Great video... What did u use for the power side for the disconnect?
When doing the Deutsch connectors, it's a good idea for the hot side of the connection to be female, so that it is harder to touch a hot wire if the connector is disconnected.
Which is exactly what I did.
You're giving Dean a run for his money. Beautiful art work✌️
I enjoyed watching this video, I would love too see a part 2 showing how to connect everything up in a car
Dude does great work 👍
Appreciate that thank you
This is so trick love it
Incredible work! And incredible strength to whoever is repeatedly removing a loaded MDF sub box lol.
AWESOME VIDEO!!! I'm going to ATTEMPT to try something like this in the trunk of my car
You got this!
Why did you not use ferrules at the amp side of the power run?
Why would he?
@@jasx1485 same reason he used them on the other end lol
@j.wright5918 other end? You mean the distribution block
Amplifier terminal is a "sandwich style" which works great for stranded wire as is.
I did this same type of connection to my 2024 silverado 2500hd last year. Even used the same plugs. After market to stock in seconds.
Thats sick! I have a simple amp & sub setup similar to this. Big power iack adapter Quick Disconnect plus remote on bullet QD then the sub inputs
I enjoyed watching.
Thank you
Can the DSP in the amp not 'correct' the signal from the head unit?
Clean set up. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
the let down of those vxi amps is lack of integration. The fix should have had its integration portion built into the VXI.
Great videos. Do they make the quick disconnect for bigger wire. 4, 0 gauge?
What is that rotating plate that was used to make the wiring loom and wrapping it?
Have one question. The extra box for the extra wires. When the bass kicks in, would it not be smart to fill it with some sort of cushion or a soft foam to keep them from rattling?
Love the idea but I'm also the type for detail. A small tapping or rattle could just distort the quality of sound.
love vxi amps... awesome to play around with
ha! this is more or less exactly the same idea i had with my latest build. The car aint worth more then the stereo, so, i did everything on a new "wall" in the trunk, amps and dsp, so that everything is "easy" removable when i sell the car and just lift it over to the next car. This is the way im gonna do all builds in the future.
Man, the idea to remove the rack and then plug the speakers in again, is sick. I'll have to keep that in mind when I'm doing a build.
Hi Mark, what is the purpose of the pully at the end of the wire wrap process as opposed to a fixed object?
what brand wiring do you make the strand groups out of, and do you twist them with a drill?
Have you ever done something like this for a BMW E46 convertible?
Will mounting this to a sub box cause the amp to go bad from the vibration?
Where can I find the turning wheel at 11:15 and how is it called??? asking for a friend 😂I'm sure you have mentioned it on other videos but I don't know how to even search for it. I mean my friend... he doesn't know...
Really nice amp rack. I bought a big plug for my own amp rack, and i wanna ask, is it safe to connect/disconnect the power plug without taking off the ground terminal on the battery? Couldn't it create a spark, if I've got a power capacitor installed on the amp rack?
Nice!! Is it okay to add battery terminals that have a multiple post and add your amp wires, LED wires and such or is it best to set up a Bluesea fuse box set up for example? I'm thinking the battery terminals with multiple post would be fine, as long as all of your wire harness have a fuse in them , correct?
Here to figure out how you turned the rca connections into a DT style connector. Having to unplug every rca + unscrew every set screw/terminal screw + main power/ground on the BACK of the board makes removing my amp rack a 20 minute task, reinstalling ususally takes longer. Im using 1/2×15×22" HDPE sheet with tapped holes for amp screws/distro blocks
Is there a reason you didn't use the RCA SUB outs from JL Audio FiX™ 86?
@mark I want to add amplifier, bass, midrange and tweeters, but I want to be able to switch between the new system and the car factory system?
I want one of those covers
Cover is here www.caraudiofabrication.com/product-page/caf-wire-caddy-for-vxi-amplifiers
Have you done anything with a Buick envista yet, I’m thinking a 5 channel amp, and a single down firing 10” sub between rear wheel hubs
Great video. Where can I buy the board you used?
What is that wheel you hooked the wires to and spin them while taping?? I’m new to this channel but that looks very handy
Its from our show partner Mobile Solutions, called the wire spinner.
I’m designing a similar setup for my 24 Chevy Silverado. For the Fix 86, can you please explain why you went with the turn on lead to it rather than using dc offset to turn on the unit? You can still use the turn on out to the amplifier correct? Or did you just want them all to turn on/off at the switch?
Anytime you have easy access to a turn on lead you should use it, it's for more reliable. I do in this case.
Do you sell complete racks? It would be cool if I could buy a custom rack like this. I would share my vehicle so you could match connectors and wire length.
Does the Fix 86 allow factory 911 integration and steering wheels controls? I have the DSR-1 in my Focus, it does that. I am looking for something to upgrade my new RAM truck with the factory uConnect system with active noise cancelling.
why did you add the distribution block on the ground wire?
I follow a lot of your awesome informative videos. Question, and not directly in line with this one:
If you have a standard 2-way crossover with a high pass and low pass but with the high pass (which is meant for a tweeter) connected to a full range capable driver like a full range 2.75" speaker. And you connect an in-line capacitor made for full range frequencies, will it bypass the tweeter frequency allowing full range frequencies? My reason for asking is because I am trying to share the 2 rear channel on a 4 channel amplifier between a 3.5" woofer and a 2.75" woofer, trying to get mid/full range frequencies from both. And I can't find a dual midrange pass crossover! Any input is greatly appreciated! Thanks!!!
I've always wanted to make a setup quickly removable as I've got multiple identical vehicles - I had the subwoofer side figured out but using the deutsch connectors to either provide input/output or a straight pass through when not in use is genius! On a more simple setup with an aftermarket head unit (think 90's sindle din stuff) would a guy even need the load generators or is that more for the integrated "smart" setups in new vehicles?
I really need one of those pieces of fiber or whatever that is.. to mount my amp on. WHere do i get that
So can I just use an Audio Control D-5. 1300 without those low generating devices to make my own quick disconnect system?
Hey where did you get the oem harness connectors from that you can wire up manually. I know you can buy a harness but you have blank harness connectors That I’m interested in
New to the car audio. Im currently working on replacement my OEM speakers, with no additional amps/sub. But ive been brainstorming the possibilities of having a removing unit for the amp/sub if i was to fit it in my trunk, just like this cause there may be some instances for i require more space. This definitely solves that issue or will inspire me to make this kinda build eventually. Do you guys have an instruction for that cable line coming from the OEM head unit to the back.? I may need to do that line/cable work before attaching this to a removable unit like you did here.
I’m curious on your opinion of the Audison Forza vs. JL Audio VXi. Comparison video maybe?
can you help me to building one like this for my 2022 GMC terrain SLT!
Did the battery disconnect have a mounting bracket?
Negative, could probably fab something up for that though if need be
Great video, really helpful! For that inline fuse connector going to the Fix86, was that 8 AWG wire? Just curious, because using a wire size calculator, I showed the largest "necessary" wire was 25AWG, but the smallest I was able to find was 18AWG in a 5-pack--and not to mention that the fuse block you're using only steps down to 8 AWG. I just want to be sure I would purchase an inline fuse holder that works with the power distribution block. And that high-power quick disconnect you show in this video seems to not be available anymore. Is there any alternative you have come across? I've done some searching, but not finding anything as neat as the one you have used. That's too bad. And regarding the HDPE plastic mounting panel: what are your thoughts on plexiglass or acrylic in place of HDPE or ABS? I'm thinking of purchasing a pre-finished Sub box, and plexiglass, being clear, would look nice mounted to a pre-finished box--but I don't know if plexiglass is more brittle than HDPE, possibly causing installation/mounting issues. Thanks again for this excellent video! Oh, and very nice work!
OK, I actually did find a Scosche 4AWG connector that also has a connection for a remote sensing wire on Crutchfield (Scosche UAKP4G) that can replace than NVX high-current quick disconnect you have in your video which seems like a rather nice replacement.
Smart man
What is LOAD GENERATING DEVICE (LGD). What is it use for?
This is making me want to spend thousands building my dream audio system for my truck… 😩
how would this work in a 6 speaker setup with 2 dash tweeters, and 4 woofers plus a sub? the FiX 86 removes 2 channels right?
Can I use that fix 86 for a 4 channel amp and a 1ohm mono amp
Would love for Mark to upgrade my A91 Supra sound system. The factory system is one of the worst ive heard and to think its labeled as a JBL premium smh.
Would love to do a similar setup as this install with the JL 5 channel, replace speakers and try and utilize the factory sub location or remove it and build custom enclosure in same place for single JL W6
So I’m gonna get a 13w7ae and a hd1200/1 I’m looking for a wiring kit and I don’t know what to get, can I get some help or a recommendation?
If i have a VX1000/5i do i still need the fix86?
and those quick-connectors, aint they called Doytch-connectors? watertight for automotive under hood and alike?
Awesome!
What can i purchase for my 2018 gmc sierra truck to bypass my stock bose amp so i can run a aftermarket amp
Cost for this setup please?
Where can I find HDPE or ABS sheets?
Will that bypass the mazda 6 2015 OEM boss audio ?
You can use a deburring tool to quickly clean up your plastic edges without having to set up a router table.
Got new car can’t use my old head unit. The entire front dash needs to come out to get to the factory unit. What a pita!! I’ve done this myself for me & friends for 25 years. My new dash is the most time consuming I’ve ever seen. I’m talking probably a 10hr job
Those fuse blocks are total junk! The pair I had fell apart just trying to get everything mounted and put in them. Had to get the beefier ones and they worked out much better.
Never seen anyone spin an alen/hex wrench like that, and I’ve been using them my whole life 😂
How ironic that you just made this video. I was just searching disconnects as I'm planning to do this setup.
I am seeking a solution where the car speaker initially runs from the factory output signal, but switches to the amplifier output once the car engine starts. This setup aims to conserve the car battery by preventing it from draining power when the car is not running, while still allowing me to enjoy music from the factory radio, as it consumes less power.
@@mustbeviv Google a line output converter or LOC.